1970 GTO the next project

[jasonL78]

Next project 1970 GTO. I will need a good straight frame original is bent from a previous accident. This car was pulled from a so called body shop. Not a big fan of following someone else's work. A lot of corners cut. I have to fix what I can. You are looking at 16K in work people. I feel real bad for the owner. He was taken for his hard earned money. Just not right! I took the car off the frame today to find the frame twisted like a pretzel. Come to find out it was in an accident prior and this so called body shop was working around it.

[jasonL78]

Look at the back of this frame hit hard on pass rear. The top of the passenger rear spring perch is actually 5 degrees higher than drivers side. The frame rail is kinked.

[jasonL78]

I’ve been digging in on this GTO and have come up with a lot of discouraging news for the owner. He paid almost 16K to a so called body shop for restoration. After 3 years and no progress, he pulled the car from the shop. He found me and now I have to straighten this mess out. This shop cut corners all over the place. Trunk pan installed over old, finished the top but not the bottom (Who will see the bottom of the car?). Cut off the old outer wheel wells put new under old inner wheel well lip. Never replaced inners but beat them with a hammer. Kind of replaced trunk frame supports. (Just lay over old don’t weld or only partially weld!) Then try to align them with a bent frame, this was visual to me! Don’t bother to re-weld the back support to the new trunk pan. (The factory had no idea what they were doing.) The quarters all need to be re-welded for structural reasons each wheel well only has 4 welds holding the to the inner. The cake last night was he used black silicon for seam sealer. Thank god I found that before I started welding in that area. That stuff is toxic when heated up or burned.
To the owners of cars being restored at a shop, please ask questions things like this just shouldn’t happen to hard working people. Shame on the owner for not following up and just keep giving this guy money for poor work. Shame on the body shop for taking advantage of a hard working person, we all work too hard for our money and shouldn’t have to worry about crooks like this!

I welded the two pans back together and will blend the 2 with filler. I reattached the rear panel to the new trunk pan. I will replace the trunk supports I think.

[HawkX66]

Wow... I hope the guy is going after that last shop. I've seen a lot of hackers like that unfortunately. Glad to see you're fixing the mess.

[Craig_Maiorana]

There are some vile disgusting creatures in the "Automotive" world .... I've had the displeasure of tripping over a few here in southern California. Hopefully he uses what you've found to crucify the bastards.

Those type of people need to be fitted for a special set of those concrete Nike's

[jasonL78]

I've been picking away at the GTO. I finished up the pass wheel wells both installed with no problem with the quarter on. Mocked up the body onto the new un bent frame and found the floor brace installed by the other shop was located wrong. I installed a new one and got everything lined back up. I sand blasted the floor this weekend and I must say they are in great shape. While working in the trunk area I found the rear tail panel was sectioned 3 times. I have located an original to replace damaged. It will be a really solid car once I'm done. Still have the challenge of replacing the tulip panel under panel I call it the package tray area. The last body shop put a new panel over the old rusty package tray panel. I was also informed the radius of the aftermarket quarter is not correct for the trim. This will have to be resolved also. That is why you need to mock everything up.

[PeteLeathersac]

'

Nice repairs Jason, especially @ areas made more difficult by the botched attempts of others.
Great to see how you're helping the owner out of a tough situation too, hopefully he can just let the past foolishness go and stay happy/healthy finally enjoying his Goat!
:beers:
~ Pete

.

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

Nice repairs, you are working fast, or I am working slowly?

Did you replace the gas tank supports and trunck supports beside the wheel wells?

Ryan

[jasonL78]

Ryan,
The car still has the original gas tank supports. The floor braces where replaced by the previous body shop. I had to replace the passenger side again because the body shop that had it was trying to align the floor support up to a bent frame. The car is moving along I hate doing things twice. It's hard following someone that doesn't have the same work ethic you have. Some things I would have done totally different. I think when it's done the owner will be happy. The owner has already made a comment that I've got more work done in 2 months than the last shop did in 2 years LOL. I do have a 9-5 job and all this work is done after hours and weekends. I really do nothing except work and work in my garage.

Jason

[markinnaples]

Jason, beautiful work so far. You're a good guy for fixing what others did wrong. It's a shame that so many body shops take advantage of people these days.

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

Would you share the manufacturer of the passenger side trunk support?

Ryan

[jasonL78]

I need this package tray panel for a 70 GTO/Lemans. Does anyone have one? Why the previous body guy put a new panel over this is just crazy!

[scuncio]

You are doing amazing work to correct all the horror that car has been through. I'm impressed.

[jasonL78]

Thanks for the kind words, I take a lot of pride in my work. I've been guiding the owner along this process and explaining to him all the problems I found. The black silicon for seam sealer was the icing on the cake. The last bump in the road is this rear package tray area. I located a donor car down state to cut the package tray panel out of. I spent most of the day yesterday lining everything up. I'm pretty happy with the body lines now. Once I get the new deck panel I will make everything permanent and move onto the body to get it ready for epoxy and high build.

[jasonL78]

Finally done with the back half of the GTO. A new package tray and deck filler panel. I had to reshape the quarter corner. The after market quarters are way off. This area will need modifications to make the rear window trim to fit correctly.

[WILMASBOYL78]

I visited Jason at his shop last nite to deliver some Nova parts to one his buddies...got to see this GTO up close...very nice work.

Jason's attention to detail and professional workmanship are as good as any I've seen.

-wilma

[Zman1969]

Nice work Jason, in the end looks like he will finally be happy

[jasonL78]

I just started priming parts, the doors and trunk lid are completed. I’m happy with the trunk area. A lot of work had to go into it, just to get it straightened out. The quarters were just a little too low and I had to build up the top of the quarters to get the panel alignment to look presentable. I like showing these shots as this is what needs to be done to aftermarket sheet metal sometimes. That’s an aftermarket trunk lid and the dam thing had dents and low spots. I think a lot of it has to do with the sheet metal is a lot thinner than the original sheet metal. A lot of time was spent blocking the back half out; I think it will pay off in the long run. The owner is very happy with my progress. I’ve got more done in 3 months than the previous body guy did in 3 years. My goal is to have the body in epoxy and high build in the next week or so. I will then proceed onto the frame, sandblast prime, and paint and hopefully get the body back onto the frame by the end of the summer.

[earntaz]

Looking good!! TAZ

[Mr70]

A testament to who you are Jason. :beers:

[daverd]

Fantastic work Jason!!!
I wish I had your body work skills!

[jasonL78]

It's tough being a one man show. I spent all day Saturday 8 to 8 getting the car in epoxy and high build primer. Every time I thought I was ready to prime the car I would find something the past shop didn't finish or hacked it up. Way to much time invested in the back half of this car. I think I am now over the hill and she was a steep one to climb.

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

You are settting an incredible pace!!

Well done

Ryan

[cook_dw]

I dont recall reading the color but what is the original color (assuming its going back the same).


Fantastic work btw.

http://i.imgur.com/1W9rEbl.gif

[jasonL78]

Thanks original color is blue with blue interior and a white vinyl top. The owner is staying with blue but a dark blue from what he told me.

[WILMASBOYL78]

Nice looking work...you would never know he does it with a brush :smirk:

-wilma

[jasonL78]

The frame is all blasted epoxy primer tomorrow night

[jasonL78]

Epoxy down top coat tomorrow

[Bert]

Looking good...

[jasonL78]

Onto the frame. I broke down the old to clean up all the parts!

[bbbenny]

Jason, Your work speaks for it;s self! Quality and Detail!! BBBenny

[jasonL78]

It has been about a month since my last post. Frame is completely assembled and ready for the body. Once back together I will start the front end body work and get some color on it. It's coming along. I feel I have worked out all the problems the last body shop created for me hopefully its smooth sailing from here on out! Not a concourse frame the owner will be driving this car. I feel it cleaned up nicely.

[cook_dw]

Lookin' good. Patiently waiting on more progress. :biggthumpup:

[CamarosRus]

Jason, Suggesting you use SPI Epoxy Prime shipped directly to your address for a little
over $220 for two gallons of working material (1:1)

I also used PPG Delfleet Essential Black (flattened with DX10) to paint frame, etc etc
as I saw Scott Tieman and Nile Wing's shop use

[jasonL78]

SPI EPOXY requires you to have your shop at 70 degrees for 24 hours. During the winter I would have a problem with this requirement. I use OMNI epoxy and high build primer. Its about the same price for 2 workable gallons.

[jasonL78]

Time to start mocking up the front nose.

[jasonL78]

First round of test fitting the new sheet metal. Overall fitment is OK, but you know all this aftermarket sheet metal needs rework to get all the body lines to line up. The hood actually fit real nice it was the fenders I will have to rework. The door to fender radius is way off you can see this in the one picture and when I fixed it. I had to drill all the spot welds along the fender edge relief cut the sheet metal, pull it out, and re-weld.

Now when the rubber nose was on the car the top edge of the fender was way to high but was fine at the hood edge. I had to drill out all the spot welds along the front of the fender and push the top edge down and re-weld it to the inner frame of the fender. One fender completed in just about 6 hours. Lots of test fitting to get the fender to line up.

[David C.]

Looking really good, your doing a great job! Reminds me of a Camaro convertible I got from another shop. Previous shop drilled holes in a new complete trunk pan assembly, but did not clamp it down to frame rails. They ended up welding the holes shut, but leaving a gap covered with seam sealer!

[jasonL78]

I know they didn't fit this good from the factory but you know me I just couldn't leave it alone. Front sheet metal is all test fitted. Just have to finish this rubber nose lots of digs and scratches to fix.

[jasonL78]

Lots of work to get this nose straight again. I'm priming the front end this weekend!

[jasonL78]

I now have all the body panels in primer. The rubber nose will need another coat of primer. The first round of blocking should start next week.

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

Your quality or work and progress rate is outrageous!!

Ryan

[daverd]

Wow !! What a Fantastic job on the bodywork!!

[Dave Rifkin]

I love how nice and crisp you go the lines of the car; excellent work.

[Crush]

Curious as to how many hours it took to get it that straight?

[jasonL78]

Thank you for all the comments. It's really a labor of love. For me the more I do it the easier it seems. Each fender has about 8 hours of rework. The fender edge along the door needed to be reformed. I drilled out all the spot welds releaf cut the edges and pulled it out to match the door radious. Clamp and reweld. The front lip that comes to the nose was welded wrong to high and to wide. I had to drill the spot welds out and pull the fender down and in then reweld. You would think for a 400 dollar repop fender you wouldn't have to rework it but you do. I use a ruler straight edge on end to make sure all the panels line up. Lots of blocking but the end result speaks for itself.

[Mr70]

Yes it does.

[jasonL78]

First round of blocking the car completed. Now the tedious task of masking everything off. This is the second coat of high build.

[jasonL78]

May have a color picked out for the GTO Heaven Blue

[KingKoser06]

Hey Jason, I am really loving this build. How much outsourcing do you do with your projects? Do you have another shop do your paint work?

Alex

[Bernhard]

Top shelf build very nice work!!

I can never understand how any shop can start a build with out making sure the frame and body shell are not straight before any metal replacement starts.

Thanks for posting

[NorCam]

May have a color picked out for the GTO Heaven Blue

Looking good Jason. Nice work as always. :biggthumpup:

[jasonL78]

Nope all done by me except the rebuilding of the motor and transmission. I leave that up to the machine shop and engine builder. I'm a one man show!

[jasonL78]

I spent most of the day blocking the car out with 320. All looks good, 1 more coat of high build will cover the couple spots I sanded through into the high build. Then a final wet sad with 600 grit will have all the exterior panels ready for paint. Once wet sanded everything will be disassembled for paint.

[jasonL78]

I also test fit the rear bumper and rear valance panel. surprisingly they real good.

[Mr70]

What's the factory color for it,and are you shooting the same?

[jasonL78]

Blue exterior, white top, and blue guts. Owner wants a newer color blue with pearl. The gallon of PPG BC is 1400 dollars. I posted a card of it earlier in the post. Pretty sure he is going to go with black interior not blue. Although the motor and trans are original to the car they will not be built to factory specifications. He is modifying the motor a lot, aluminum heads intake cam etc.

[jasonL78]

I picked up my painting supplies yesterday. Just for color and clear for this car the bill came to 2180.00 that's with a discount on PPG. Now this isn't cheap color as the owner wanted a color with pearl in it. The blue he picked is called Heavenly Blue and the retail cost of the gallon was 1850.00 which to me is just crazy. He feels at this point what's another couple hundred dollars to get what he wants. Paint and clear have been averaging 1200-1500 for the last couple of cars I painted but it just seems materials for restorations are just way out of hand. This is why paint jobs are going for 10-20k depending on the level of work that is needed. Just crazy!

[Mr70]

That is crazy.
I remember a few crying about how they had to pay 5K for their stock paint jobs @Vettefest in the early 90's.

[markinnaples]

I looked up PPG Heavenly Blue and that color is stunning. Cannot wait to see how it looks when you're done.

[jasonL78]

Here it is on a Chevelle

[flyingn]

There are some vile disgusting creatures in the "Automotive" world .... I've had the displeasure of tripping over a few here in southern California. Hopefully he uses what you've found to crucify the bastards.

Those type of people need to be fitted for a special set of those concrete Nike's


ahh, spoken like a true New Jerseyian :)

[flyingn]

you do excellent work, Jason... Keep it up

[Craig_Maiorana]

HAHAHA thanks brother .. that was the PG version .. I know you knew that also

[njsteve]

Jason, I know I've probably asked you before, but where are you located in relation to central NJ. I'm thinking it's time to get Gramma's car repainted after 25 years and your work is outstanding. :-)

[luzl78]

I’m next in line. It’s great when everyone wants you.

[jasonL78]

I’m just outside of Albany and Jeff is next in line and after jeff I have a list that is only getting longer. I do this for fun and sometimes I ask myself what’s wrong with me! Well Mother Nature put a twist in my planned week to paint the GTO. I get this week off from work and had all intentions to paint the GTO but I can’t do it when the outside temp is single digits. I got the bottom of the hood and trunk lid painted today. It took 5 hours to get the shop to 75 just to paint these two things. This color is awesome. Crazy expensive but well worth it. This GTO is going to be the only one of its kind that’s for sure!

[luzl78]

Gto smurf

[njsteve]

That's definitely blue! You can add me to the list too!

[cook_dw]

Gosh dang that's a pretty blue..

[Bert]

Again, you do nice work.
keep it up

[jasonL78]

Body is painted onto doors fenders nose and hood.

[SuperNovaSS]

Beautiful!


Jason

[BJCHEV396]

X2!!

[jasonL78]

Only the nose and bottom spoilers left to paint and with only a pint of paint to spare, it will be close!!! At 1850 a gallon retail I hope I don't need any more.

[MosportGreen66]

Wow Jason, that's amazing. Very nice work and thanks for sharing.

Dan

[jasonL78]

First door wet sanded and buffed out. Not to bad for a garage paint job ...just like glass!

[396L78canuck]

Wow very nice work indeed.Bob

[jasonL78]

Finished up all the paint work. I just started wet sanding and buffing the body. The top of the drivers side quarter and top of the trunk lid is completed. Pictures do this car no justice that's for sure. Still waiting on the motor. The machine shop is dragging there feet. They have only had it for 4 years. It sure would be nice to set the motor before I hang the fenders for the last time. I also sent the dash pad out to just dashes in CA for a restore. Just an FYI these guys are now 14 weeks out so plan accordingly.

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

Inspiring for sure.

That is a huge commitment to paint a car a non stock colour. This turned out amazing!! I still cant fathom 1850 US a gallon. (I worked in automotive robotic paint for 10 years and saw millions of dollars of paint sprayed but never had to pay for it myself..... )

Ryan

[9999]

Jason, I am going to learning how to paint on my old truck under an open-air car port where temp control is not possible. Can you give me some input on painting when temps vary?

The car port will be shoddily sealed with thick plastic wrap, and I might use some plywood to make fake walls....maybe.


I am obviously not a pro, am not going to get fantastic results...this I realize. Thank you very much.

[jasonL78]

Well I'm not a pro just a hobbyist in my eyes. You have multiple variables against you right away. The temperature plays a key factor on what materials you purchase. Reducers have a temperature range usually 10 -15 degrees. If the outside temperature is going to vary that much you will have issues. As for the open car port ventilation is very important and not to mention bugs dirt and dust. I would talk to your local auto body supply store and ask them what reducers and paint would they recommend for your situation. I'm here to tell you paint supplies are very expensive and to just practice with them in these conditions would be wasting your money. I'm all for trying things on your own but you will be learning the hard way for sure at a very hefty price. For a very inexpensive base coat, clear and hardeners I bet you will have at least 500.00 in color and clear. When you go with inexpensive base coats usually it takes twice the amount of paint to cover. What you are looking at in the pictures I posted is one of the best clears PPG produces and high end PPG base coat DBC. For clear and base coat for this car it cost just shy of 2300 dollars. That's my cost with a discount. Retail its just shy of 3K.

With all that being said and your still willing to go this route have at it. There's no better job satisfaction than doing it yourself. The question you need to ask your self is what are my expectations of the final result.

[9999]

Thanks for letting me use your thread to bounce questions around in.

I really think my first line of business should be to find a way to create a cleaner and ventilated environment first. Secondly I'll need to plan for doing this at one time, instead of trying to do it over multiple days where the temp/humidity can vary.

Thanks again Jason!

[olredalert]

----I have a number of friends that are able to rent a booth from someone they know. Get all the prep work done 1st. Maybe that's a possibility?......Bill S

[jasonL78]

Headliner is in, doors are hung. Just received the motor from the machine shop last night. Picked up the transmission this past weekend, everything is starting to come together. Also ordered a complete glass kit that should be in next week.

[jasonL78]

The motor has been installed. The owner wanted aluminum heads. Little did he know the edelbrock heads must be a little wider because both headers needed modifications to fit. First problem was on the driver side. The header was hitting the brake line distribution block. I had to move it back and up to get it away from the heat of the header. Next was the Zbar it’s going to be real close won’t know until I get the pedals back into the car and engage the clutch. The passenger side header had to be dimpled where the lower control arm bolt head is. These Doug headers are a tight fit this for sure!

[njsteve]

Are those headers designed for the Edelbrock heads? Those heads have their own unique port layouts from what I recall.

[jasonL78]

Yes these are the correct Doug’s headers for these heads. Some special D port head I guess. All I know is everything is tight.

[jasonL78]

How does the radiator sit in the core support for a 70 GTO? I can't remember if there were tabs off the core support that the radiator sits in? All I have are some rubber bushings. Also how does it attach at the top? With a panel? I've tried searching on the internet to see if I can find some pictures but I'm coming up empty handed.

[Wakepowell]

The radiator fits into the shroud and then the shroud is bolted to the core support.

[njsteve]

The radiator fits into the shroud and then the shroud is bolted to the core support.

For what it's worth, that is how it's done on the Firebirds. I haven't done an A body, though.

First, the fan has to be out of the car. With the radiator and shroud on the ground, you set the radiator on the two rubber cushions at the bottom of the shroud, which engage the edges of both radiator tanks. There will also be two more rubber cushions that go in the same spot on the tank edges at the top of the radiator. Then carefully lower the shroud and radiator into place aligning up to the radiator support. There should be two or more bolts that hold the bottom of the shroud against the back side of the radiator support. There will also be a row of bolts across the top that go through the shroud into the top of the radiator support at the edge. The top bolts require the captured nut clips.

[jasonL78]

AHH that makes sense now. When I pulled the car apart the original fan shroud was broken and I tossed it. I have another shroud from another car and haven't put the 2 together yet. It all makes sense now. Thanks for the replys

[paint4metal]

Just stopped by to say the Goat looks great dude, nice work!!!!!!

[wheelhop]

How about some pics after a weekend of assembly?

[jasonL78]

I will post some pictures in a couple of days. I've been beating myself up the last couple days trying to work around these headers. Who would think one little change in the engine bay by adding aftermarket heads would create so many problems. From brake lines, alternator and power steering brackets to the clutch return spring. I have the brake lines all made and test fit. I ordered the power brake booster and that showed up damaged. We just can't win. I had to get creative with the clutch return spring. I made two brackets and both failed. Just no room for the clutch return spring or a bracket. I kept walking away from the problem and then the third attempt was the best and simplest design. I think it will work. I'm currently installing the sound deadener and rug in-between working on the engine bay. You would think final assembly would be bolt on and go, but that isn't always the case. These pictures are during mock up I will be painting the bracket and starter. Oh YA and I still need to come up with a way to get the wires to the starter, as the header tube is in the way where the original wire channel was run. That's going to be another fun challenge. I guess that's why its called hot rodding.

[njsteve]

Did this car have the 400 starter wires running down the tube between the #5 and 7 cylinders? That won’t work with headers. You can use the 455HO/SD455 wire routing which runs across the intake, down the front of the block, behind the power steering pump and along the oil pan rail. It uses a different metal tube to protect the wires on the front of the block. You will need a starter heat shield by the way.

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

Is there so many problems just to add headers or the problems are increased by also using Aluminum heads?

Pure Stock is the way to Rock :-)

Ryan

[jasonL78]

Did this car have the 400 starter wires running down the tube between the #5 and 7 cylinders? That won’t work with headers. You can use the 455HO/SD455 wire routing which runs across the intake, down the front of the block, behind the power steering pump and along the oil pan rail. It uses a different metal tube to protect the wires on the front of the block. You will need a starter heat shield by the way.

Steve that is correct. I will look into that tube for the 455, do they reproduce it? Is the heat shield factory? Not that it matters but if I can install one it might save the starter.

[jasonL78]

Is there so many problems just to add headers or the problems are increased by also using Aluminum heads?

Pure Stock is the way to Rock :-)

Ryan

These are Edelbrock aluminum heads and must be wider than the originals putting the headers close to the frame rail. Only Dougs make these headers for these heads they have a D shaped exhaust port. I have a friend with a 69 Chevelle with a 454 and headers and he has all sorts of space around the frame rails.

[njsteve]

Not a lot of people go with headers on Pontiac engines for this very reason. Bad fit and big leaks, and not much more performance than the ram air manifolds give. They usually upgrade to the factory ram air manifolds which are reproduced now. They even make them with larger port flange sizes. That’s what I have in the Gramma car.

The front mounted 455HO metal tube is really just to prevent chafing on the front of the block so it’s really not that necessary on a modified car. The harness can be protected in other ways. The solenoid heat shield is reproduced in the aftermarket. I can post some photos later when I get home.

[jasonL78]

Thanks for the info Steve, it is truly appreciated. I will search for the heat shield. Good to know about the ram air exhaust manifolds. This wasn't my call all on the owner. I just get stuck trying to make this mess work.

[njsteve]

Here's some links to the various heatshields. Since it's not a restoration it can be any style. But you have to have one on a Pontiac with headers or ram air manifolds. (a Chevy heatshield wont work since it's on the opposite side of the car)

https://www.firebirdcentral.com/1967_1977_Firebird_Starter_Solenoid_Heat_Shield_p/enc-2040.htm

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchResultsPageCmd?No=0&Ns=P_Price%7C0&langId=-1&Ntt=starter+heat+shields&N=0&Nty=0&catalogId=10002&Jnar=0&DM_PersistentCookieCreated=true&Ne=1+2+3+13+1147708&storeId=10001&ddkey=http%3AKeywordSearchCmd

On the Gramma car, I used the factory solenoid shield. You can also use the entire heatshield wrap for added protection. The more protection, the less the problem (Pontiacs with headers and/or ram air manifolds are notorious for cooking starters).

Here's a photo of the factory style heatshield on the Gramma car with ram air manifolds. See how close that manifold is to the solenoid?

And also here's a shot of the bracket that routes the factory starter wiring on the Gramma car.

[njsteve]

The protection tube at the front of the engine was used to keep the positive battery cable away from the front of the exhaust manifold. You can find alternate methods to do that on a modified car. From this photo you can see the starter wires running down the front of the cylinder head and block, then it goes along the pan rail, under the motor mount and up from underneath to the starter solenoid.

[jasonL78]

Thanks again Steve.

[njsteve]

See, it would be soooo much easier if you painted my Gramma's car...I just need the body done. You can leave all the rest to me. :-)

[jasonL78]

It may be possible I just have 3 cars to complete first. LOL Working 45HRs a week at my full time job and 10-20hours a week in my garage has been catching up to me that's for sure. I will keep plugging along.

[jasonL78]

Getting closer and closer! Waiting for the double pumper fuel line to finish the fuel line.

[jasonL78]

A couple questions on the a-body clutch and brake pedals. Is the clutch pedal supposed to be about 2" higher than the brake pedal? Does the rod from the booster belong in the bottom hole of the brake pedal? If it's in the top hole it looks like it will bind. I know the nova clutch pedal is up a little from the brake pedal but not this much.

[njsteve]

Clutch is higher sitting than brake pedal based on what the adjustment is. Here's a photo of my old T/A. Brake rod appears to be parallel to the support bracket and straight shot back, from the master cylinder. Photo from the SD455 with automatic. ( I don't know if the pedal assembly is different in an F-body. This one does not have a hole but instead has a stud where the rod's "banjo" end attaches with a retaining clip)

[jasonL78]

Thanks Steve,

The automatic pedal I have from the parts car which had the power brake option used the bottom hole. I read some where last night on the web, for the manual brake cars both pedals would be equal and disk brake cars the brake and clutch pedal would be offset. I guess the manual brake cars would use the top hole because its a straight shot to the master cylinder and the power brake cars would use the bottom hole as the booster is slightly angled. I was just trying to get confirmation on this. I actually never noticed this until I read it last night.

[jasonL78]

I just about have all the mechanical tasks done. I'm moving onto the quarter and door glass and interior panels. I still have to bleed the brakes. The owner has decided he wants AC. The factory AC box is out just no room for it. It looks like I will have to go with a vintage air set-up. They don't make a direct replacement for the GTO I have to use a universal model. Has anyone ever used the vintage air set up?

[Mr70]

Looks good,and well done.

[tom406]

The holes used on the pedal for power versus non-power is also a leverage/force thing. Years ago the shop I was at had a manual brake Firebird that wouldn't hardly stop no matter how hard you stood on the brake pedal. Simply switching to the proper mounting hole for manual brakes fixed the issue.

[jasonL78]

Looking for a pair of black seat belts. I need 2 sets male and female. Ok if they are faded I will dye them chrome on the male side should be presentable.

[jasonL78]

I ordered a ground wire kit for the GTO 3 wires one goes from the head on the passenger side to the firewall the other from the front passenger floor mount to the frame. Where does the third ground wire go?

[njsteve]

Once again, from a F-body perspective instead of A-body, but the Gramma car has a third, heavy gauge ground wire running from the passenger side subframe rail to a bellhousing bolt near the oil filter housing

[jasonL78]

Wow never seen that on a car Steve. These are just 3 braided copper wire lines

[wheelhop]

I asked a friend of mine who know 69 GTO's and he said there is a ground strap that goes from the passenger side inner fender to the front of the frame somewhere.

may be different on a 70?

[jasonL78]

thanks I will look on the inners

[jasonL78]

Waiting on the dash from Just Dashes. Vintage air all installed I just have to charge the system. Hood and nose will be going on it this week.

[jasonL78]

Pypes exhaust with violator mufflers


https://www.facebook.com/jason.hale.108/videos/pcb.10212175548123240/10212175545163166/?type=3&theater

[jasonL78]

The front nose is on the car. The dash pad arrived yesterday. Its almost looks like a car again.

[jasonL78]

Results

[njsteve]

Very pretty. I usually go by the rule that once the engine is back in, then it's officially a car again. I guess bodymen have different rules of engagement. :-)

[markinnaples]

Beautiful

[Mr70]

You do some really nice work.

[9999]

You happy with JustDashes? Quality work?

[jasonL78]

so far yes. I installed the Air ducts in the dash yesterday. They fit a little tight but was able to get them snapped into place. I will be installing the dash cluster tonight. Overall the dash pad looks real good. The only complaint I would have is it takes 3-4 months to get your dash pad back.

[Mr70]

What exactly did they do to your Dash pad?..just paint it?

[jasonL78]

They removed all the foam installed new and vacuum sealed a new piece of vinyl. Its a long process, Google it, I think they have a video on u-tube. The dash pad was trashed cracks all over it foam was actually missing.

Repaint it come on Mr70 I think I could of handled that...LOL

[Mr70]

Teas'n ya Jason. ;)

[jasonL78]

Waiting on headlight bezels they are on back order

[A12pilot]

Beeeeyeeewwwwwtimous!! Very nice work! :drool:

Cheers:beers:
Dave

[markinnaples]

Any updates on the GTO?

[jasonL78]

Where do I start. I finished installing the interior Saturday night, I started the car and realized the dash back lights were not working. Sunday, I removed the driver seat and reached up behind the dash cluster to reset each light socket and got all the lights to work but never started the car. Monday night I decide to charge the AC. I pulled a vacuum and all was good. When I went to start the car, I noticed all the gauges were pinned with the generator light on. Huh I must have disturbed a ground. So, I continue to try and charge the AC I can only get 1 can of refrigerant into the system. I realize the compressor clutch wasn’t engaged. I have good pressure on the gauges so I precede to start troubleshooting. I found the compressor relay wasn’t being powered from the vintage air ECU. A call to vintage air yesterday revealed a bad ECU. A replacement is on its way.

Last night, I decide to look at the gauge issue while running. To see if I have a ground issue I take a jumper lead and ground the side of the cluster. Working with only a couple of inches, the lead moves and touches the positive stud on one of the gauges. With a blink of an eye, that circuit board trace disappeared. Now the dash assembly must come back out of the car which is a big pain in the butt! Who designed this! Still wondering why, the gauges don’t work, I start tracing the circuit board back to the wiring harness plug. This car originally didn’t have the rally gauge package but the owner wanted to add it. I thought I traced all the wires out between the two and thought they were the same. Nope, the none gauge cluster and rally gauge cluster are not pinned the same. It’s not plug and play. The Generator wire and gas tank pins are reversed. I’m pretty sure this will solve that issue. So now I’m waiting for an ECU and a circuit board. The wheels and tires are on order. Other than putting these couple of things back together, testing, installing a radio, and finish charging the AC system the car is just about done.

[markinnaples]

Patience of a saint, lol, but looking great.

[Xplantdad]

Jason-Very nice!!:biggthumpup:

[jasonL78]

Almost ready for the first voyage.

[jasonL78]

Finally got the GTO out last night for the main voyage. The owner was scared to drive it LOL. He said you drive it since you built it. That's a 10-4 good buddy! I was very happy with the results, no rattles, vibrations, or darting. Hell I took my hand off the wheel at 65 straight as an arrow. He still needs to have the front end aligned. As for the performance I must say this 400 is a runner and the Pypees violator exhaust is just mean. When your into it the tone sounds like an Indy car. Interior noise really isn't that bad at all. The owner finally did drive the car and when he shifted from first to second at like 2500 RPM I turned to him and gave him the look, and said Really...LOL.

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

You have taken lemons and made lemonaid.

Ryan W31

[300deluxe]

Your car looks perfect, wish my junker looked like yours!