1967 Z-28 Parts Wanted

[Zedder]

Looking for '67 Z-28 parts: 266 distributors, DF wheels, 610 intakes, cowl plenum air cleaners, 6764 and 822 cranks, MO and MP blocks, etc. Thanks! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/3gears.gif

[TDW]

Mark...There is a NOS crank on ebay today. Says it is a 67 Z28.

[Zedder]

Thanks Tony...I'll check that out!

[Salvatore]

Mark, You should be able to use a nice 283 crank. They are steel and small journal. Good Luck! Sam

[68z302]

Sam,
Although the 283 crank will fit it all depend how picky you are about your resto.
The bolting flange for the flywheel is different on a 302 VS a 283 crank. I can't remember which is which one has a bolting flange that is a full circle, the other has a notch in it. Plus the Z28 crank is tuffrided.

[Salvatore]

Rob, You are correct. They were tufftrided. Most off that wears off in time. I never really saw a 302 or LT1 crank where that really mattered. I believe that the 1967 302 crank is a circle with a V cut into it. Anyhow it would all work. There are a couple cranks on e-bay and also I think there is a harmonic balancer available where the key way does line up with the timing mark. The block can be a 4 in bore job with small journals, or you can buy bearing spacers if a small journal is not available. To me the internal parts arn't as important to a resto. as the bolt on parts, as long as it is a REAL 302 with the correct compression. I was hard pressed to get 30 over pistons for my 1969 Z. We had to fly cut a set of TRW 12:1's. There are manufactures out there: Venolia, C+P etc, but are around $800.00 a set. (forged) Correct #'s and date carb, intake, distributor,heads, pulleys, fan, valve covers, correct heads on the intake bolts correct coil etc. is what I try to get first. Correctly dated block is important to me also. Cams, rods,whatever crank I can get 1967 Z original first choice if it is good and reasonable, or I could live with a nicely preped 283 crank. Just my opinion. Sam /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggthumpup.gif

[rafbody]

The 302 crank did have one notch out of it but the exact crank was also used in 283's. The only difference was the 302 crank was tuffrided. I have examples of both.

Russ

[Salvatore]

Ok Russ, I thought they may be the same, but wasn't sure. I think you can get one re-tuffrided if you want to. I don't really think it is necessary. I bet you Ben Wenzel with the D/S national record 1967 Z/28 doesn't worry about his crankshafts. They are probably all 283 cranks he has. Sam /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/3gears.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/burnout.gif

[rafbody]

I have talked to Ben at the races a few times. He has a great car. Just for clarification, most of the 283 cranks I have seen have a round flywheel flange but, some of them are the same as the 302.

Russ

[JoeC]

Did they have a tapped hole in front of crank? I have one with notch rear flange no tapped hole in front. Seems strange that they relied on just a press fit to hold the H B on.

[Salvatore]

I believe they did Joe. Sam

[rafbody]

I have not checked the 283 cranks I have but if it is a 302 crank, I am pretty sure it was tapped. The 302 had an 8inch harmonic balencer where the 283 had a much smaller one.

Russ

[RPZ28]

Sam, it would be impossible to wear the tuffriding surface off. The nitriding process is about .015 thousands deep. The crank would have to be .030 under to be completly gone.
Zedder I have a 67 z28 crank #3815822 std.- std. for $400.
let me know if you are interested.
Ron

[Zedder]

Thanks Ron, but I just bought one from another forum member.

[Salvatore]

Ron, I have 2-1969 302 cranks. One is 20/20 and the other is standard. I guess the one that is standard still has the tuffride, and the other one 20/20 is gone? How can you tell? Thanks, Sam

[RPZ28]

Sam, the only way to tell is to do a rockwell"C" hardness test on it, but the diamond tip from the tester will leave a small prick mark on the journal. The only problem with nitriding is that it is the hardest at the surface, the more you grind off the softer it gets. Yours at .020 under still should have some hardness left, at .030 under its usually complety gone. I hope this helps.
Ron

[Salvatore]

Thanks Ron. I thought that the hardness was only about .015 thick at the most,but You learn something new everyday! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggthumpup.gif

[RPZ28]

Sam, the .015 depth is radial, and .030 is total depth on the diameter.
Ron

[Salvatore]

Thanks for your help Ron. Sam /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggthumpup.gif

[TDW]

Mark...There is an ad on Team Camaro this morning you may be interested in. Guy thinks he has a 67 Z28 block and crank. His name is Don. 509-276-6090.

[Zedder]

Thanks Tony! Please do me a favor and send me a PM next time...the vultures are already circling /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

[TDW]

OK Mark...will do.

[resto4u]

mark, im very hungry and going in for the kill! "vultures" /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/haha.gif Roger

[Zedder]

OK Roger, if you are that hungry, I'll let you have the motor - just make sure you don't choke on that decked block /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggthumpup.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

[resto4u]

one step ahead of you, talked to him last night. And denis was one step ahead of me. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggthumpup.gif Roger

[Zedder]

...and Alan was one step ahead of both of you /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/haha.gif

[Denis]

[ QUOTE ]
one step ahead of you, talked to him last night. And denis was one step ahead of me. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggthumpup.gif Roger

[/ QUOTE ]

Wasn't me. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

PS: You guys looking for 67Z parts should check out the Classifieds on my website (carbs, intakes, rear ends, etc available).

[KNAPPY]

Where is your website?

[resto4u]

Denis, the seller said he was contacted by a person from seattle that had 3 67 z28's. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif Roger

[Zedder]

That's correct...Denis has two. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggthumpup.gif