[FESTIVAL78]

Tom here...I could talk component finishes until I'm blue in the face but I'll try to keep it short. Cottage Cheese is rot and we just don't want to use the word when talking about our own pieces...I'm from Massachusetts and know my rot. The heat treating avenue I'll agree with but that's more light pitting than cheese. Axle tubes as an example have cheese. I sandblast the whole housing and soak the tubes with Dupont URO prime (two part epoxy primer, hi-build, liquid bondo really ,in black). After it dries I block sand it almost completely off. Where I saw original stryations (machining lines) I go back and duplicate them by using a piece of brand new 80 grit paper pulled ONE time in a perfectly straight line. I then finish it with Dupont Corlar 25P epoxy mastic # LF-64025P (and VF525 activator) This is in the Dupont Industrial Coating # system. It truely looks good. The only thing I find hard to fix is a corroded center section as it is rough cast and tough to duplicate if soaked in primer (soaked meaning many spayed on coats) Anyone with ideas on center section duplication?
Metal finishing like boosters and corroded brackets and a-arms...3M roloc discs are the bomb! get 3" # 051131-07485 and put them on an Ingersol-Rand 301 hand held air grinder with the 3M roloc disc attachment. Grind away all the rough stuff until it shines and any rot pockets are gone, then sand the whole thing again with either 320 0r 400 grit sandpaper on an orbital DA...When recolored it will look new.
I've seen many parts that were dipped on my car and have noted which way they were hung to dry. I have found pocket puddles of black that had many small air bubbles in them as well. I am curious as to what type of paint is used to float on the water (oil base?)and am mystified as to why the part does not repell the paint as it would be soaked with water...Anyone?