1100837 Alternator 8K24 - Page 2

**SuperNovaSS** · #11 02-13-2017, 02:50 AM

Thank you very much for all the replies. I am working on making this right.

Jason

**bergy** · #12 02-13-2017, 08:54 AM

8K24 is a re-stamp. Other 2 look good to me.

bbbentley · #13 02-13-2017, 09:08 AM

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SuperNovaSS</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I bought this alternator here and sold it to a customer. Six months later the guy I sold it to say an expert is claiming its a restamp because the 7's aren't right. I don't want to do anyone wrong but I see nothing wrong with the stamping and is was originally sold by a respected restorer. Does anyone see anything wrong with the stamping. Here are a couple for comparison:

Thanks,

Jason </div></div>
To be clear in what you are asking Jason, the alternator in this post that was sold ( 1st one shown at the beggining of the post) is the one you purchased. The other 2 that you posted (pictured above) are just other examples you offer up as comparisons, correct? That is how I interpreted the question and what I based my earlier reply. Just insuring there is no vagueness or mis interpretation.

**Bill Pritchard** · #14 02-13-2017, 01:24 PM

This is certainly educational. Now that comparison pics have been posted, I can see the slight difference between stampings. I am curious, however, on how whatever was the original stamping on the alternator in question was obliterated to allow the new stamping to be made, and still allow the base metal to appear like original? Not like I'm going into the restamp business, just wondering.

NorCam · #15 02-13-2017, 01:28 PM

It is my experience with the original stamping that the beginning and end of the sequence in fonts are normally deeper as the gang stamps were rolled and this left a deeper impression of the first font (left) as well as the last fonts (right). Looking at many originals, you can clearly see the A in amperage and the G in negative come off deeper on the right sides as the stamp rolls off the case. The 7's will normally have a deeper depression at the top right corner of the leg where the vertical and horizontal lines meet and this will normally appear like the leg widens as it rolls through and off the stamping (right along the upper right on the curved leg). Kinda has a squished look to the top of the vertical leg and appears slightly wider in that pocket if you catch what I'm saying.

With all the fakes floating around, I'm off the opposite opinion where any light stamping's I see will always raise a flag for me, and then I'll really analyze the fonts. It also appears the alt in the first picture has the date code misaligned? Look at the K with the lower legs running down low and the 24 being set higher along the lower plain. Looks like an obvious restamp to me and likely one that someone thought was real but sent to Ken to be restored and later sold it.

There are a lot of restamps out there, but most are easy to spot when you really learn what to look for. Even the guy from Ohio that is now rolling stamps onto unstamped cases is having a hard time recreating those original depressions and still uses incorrect fonts. Gotta be sharp to spot the fakes now as some are getting better and will trick many smart people.

NorCam · #16 02-13-2017, 01:36 PM

Bill,

Many restamps use original over the counter units which were not stamped at the AC Delco plant and were shipped blank. They have the original AC Delco embossed logos and correct style cases but no numbers. I bought one of these recently and they are prime candidates for the guys who are restamping numbers whenever they can find them. The obvious fakes out there will often have the cases milled down to remove the original numbers and are then restamped. These are easily spotted when you look along the top edge of that surface area as you can see a milled ridge line along the surfaces just under the mounting boss and can tell its had the surface milled down. Original cases should be level across that area and it runs flat and true right underneath that front mounting boss. There should be no ridge or drop at the base of that boss, just a level field running right underneath it.

cook_dw · #17 02-13-2017, 02:02 PM

How about we dont give restampers more tips on how to hone their "craft"...??..

**scott s** · #18 02-13-2017, 02:08 PM

so u think the 8k24 is a restamp?

bbbentley · #19 02-13-2017, 02:13 PM

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: cook_dw</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How about we dont give restampers more tips on how to hone their "craft"...??.. </div></div>

Yeah, enough with the , "How to Fake stuff tutorial" Send a PM.

NorCam · #20 02-13-2017, 02:21 PM

Here's an unstamped "over the counter" original case. Note how the surface runs flat right out under the hollowed area of the front mounting boss. If the case had the numbers milled down, there would be a ridge there as the mill cannot access the surface under the boss and when they are cut, it becomes very obvious along that spot. See second picture for suggested area to inspect.