Go Back   The Supercar Registry > Sponsors > Vintage Musclecar Parts

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #21  
Old 05-30-2017, 10:53 PM
ZLP955 ZLP955 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Australia
Posts: 379
Thanks: 9
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dannystarr View Post
Nobody online at any of the Camaro sites ever told me to check my fuel pressure. Maybe they did, I really don't remember, but I don't think so.
I recall your thread, but thought you said you'd done a few thousand miles on the HBC fuel pump with no issues? Was this after you traced the problem back to the rebuilt distributor and the holes in the carb butterflies?
__________________
Tim
1969 Van Nuys 04A Z/28 69-69 715 ex-E/MP
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 05-31-2017, 06:18 AM
dannystarr dannystarr is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 17
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

I did do 3 thousand miles on that same pump. Bought car with 54,610 and took it to 57,200. BUT the issue was ALWAYS there. All the things mentioned just helped make it run better. As you may recall, there was only 3 teeth on the timing gear. 14 PSI at an idle is WAY to high of course. Once I stuck the PRV in the front in the frame, it was an incredible change. I never have had a car that pulled so hard with only 1/4" of throttle in any gear at almost any speed above 25MPH. At times I would be going down the road at 3,000 RPM's and hit a bump in the road and accidentally push on the throttle a little and the whole car would lunge forward. It was crazy! I wish I could have wound it up to 7 or 8,000rpm's. I could only imagine what it would have been like. But 4,500 20 times was still a heck of a good time. Car NEVER died at a stop again, white smoke gone. SUPER rich at an idle burning your eyes to hell and back.. ALL GONE.. D
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 06-11-2017, 03:49 PM
enio45 enio45 is offline
Yenko Paid Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 3,150
Thanks: 1
Thanked 8 Times in 6 Posts
Default

Eric - So in order to check the fuel pump pressure like on a stock 69Z, how would you go about doing that - whats needs to come off and what tool/gauge do i need? Anyone got a pic of a setup they did?
__________________
Eddie M
MBTMF

68 COPO Camaro 9737 non-converted YENKO
69 YENKO SC Camaro, Hugger Orange - born with engine!
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 06-11-2017, 03:59 PM
earntaz earntaz is offline
Yenko Paid Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Republic of Texas
Posts: 3,402
Thanks: 1
Thanked 30 Times in 21 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by enio45 View Post
Eric - So in order to check the fuel pump pressure like on a stock 69Z, how would you go about doing that - whats needs to come off and what tool/gauge do i need? Anyone got a pic of a setup they did?
Good Q Eric -- please provide your thoughts on this ... TAZ
__________________
You've never lived until you've almost died -- for those who fight for it, life has a flavor the protected will never know!
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 06-11-2017, 05:40 PM
VintageMusclecar's Avatar
VintageMusclecar VintageMusclecar is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,772
Thanks: 7
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Default

You'll need a basic low pressure fuel pressure tester such as the one shown below:



I'd warm the engine up a little so it will idle w/o the choke being engaged. Disconnect the feed line from the pump at the brass junction block (such as on the `69 Z28) or at the fuel inlet fitting on a Quadrajet equipped vehicle. Have some rags handy to catch the fuel that will inevitably spill, and it should go w/o saying that a fire extinguisher is a MUST.

Connect the rubber hose from the tester to the end of the fuel line--often you can slip the hose over the end of the flare on the tube with a little finagling. You may have to get a little creative to come up with something workable. Use a hose clamp to secure the hose to the fuel line, then start the engine (let it idle!) and observe the fuel pressure. Only let it run long enough to observe the pressure, then shut it off. Revving the engine will not effect the pressure, so again, just let it idle. There's enough fuel in the carb for the engine to run for at least 30 seconds to 1 minute with the inlet disconnected.

Reverse the procedure and re-start to check for any leaks.
__________________
Carburetor Rebuild & Restoration
Engine & Driveline Parts & Services

<span style="font-style: italic">Click the banner below!</span>



sales@vintagemusclecarparts.com
(937) 836-5927

Check out the new Vintage Musclecar Parts
Facebook page!
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 06-11-2017, 06:58 PM
earntaz earntaz is offline
Yenko Paid Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Republic of Texas
Posts: 3,402
Thanks: 1
Thanked 30 Times in 21 Posts
Default

THANKS Eric -- Fire-putter-outer is a must!! TAZ
__________________
You've never lived until you've almost died -- for those who fight for it, life has a flavor the protected will never know!
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 06-12-2017, 02:18 AM
enio45 enio45 is offline
Yenko Paid Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 3,150
Thanks: 1
Thanked 8 Times in 6 Posts
Default

thanks eric....will give this a shot
__________________
Eddie M
MBTMF

68 COPO Camaro 9737 non-converted YENKO
69 YENKO SC Camaro, Hugger Orange - born with engine!
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 06-12-2017, 08:19 PM
dannystarr dannystarr is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 17
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

I don't know if you can get real accurate results without having the fuel flowing through the system in a real working manner under actual load. I did the test with just the gauge and it was I think 8.2 PSI. THEN I ran it with a liquid filled gauge installed inline under working load. BIG difference.. View the video's in reply #20 to see what I mean. I punched it and adjusted the flow rate of the PRV accordingly. So as not to have a major lean lapse in fuel under a load. Pretty easy to do. I pulled the cowl and ran the lines up so I could see the gauge while driving. Eric is correct as you can with some effort, push the 3/8ths" rubber line over the flare and install a clamp. Careful not to tear the inside and leave chunks free to clog the carb filters. I purchased a couple 3/8th's male flare X barbed fittings that swivel. $16 each and worth every penny. Nice to be able to roll it up or down out of the way of the air cleaner etc. Danny
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 02:38 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.