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  #11  
Old 02-22-2018, 04:36 PM
earntaz earntaz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crash View Post
use the steel gear, not a big fan of the torch method, i use a piece of 1 1/4" pipe about a ft. Long and tap the gear into place, make sure the taper on the i.d. Bore goes on first...

Been doing it that way for over 30 years...

Hope this helps... Crash
agree!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 02-22-2018, 06:10 PM
L16pilot L16pilot is offline
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"not a big fan of the torch method"

Me either. Plan is to use the oven I use for powdercoating, heat soak the gear to 450-ish which should be plenty and then tap into place with a section of iron pipe.

I really appreciate everyone's input...and especially the "don't do this" parts.
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  #13  
Old 02-22-2018, 07:36 PM
novadude novadude is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crash View Post
Use the steel gear, not a big fan of the torch method, I use a piece of 1 1/4" pipe about a ft. long and tap the gear into place, make sure the taper on the I.D. bore goes on first...

Been doing it that way for over 30 years...

Hope this helps... Crash
What's wrong with the torch method? It's worked flawless for me every time. The gear is really soft, and I was always worried about dinging up the teeth if the pipe moved on me.

Heat / torches are used to install press fit hubs onto shafts in industry every day for good reason. More than one way to skin a cat though....

To the OP: If you are heating to 450 deg in an oven, you probably will not need the hammer - just pliers. It's not that tight of a press fit.
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Old 02-22-2018, 07:53 PM
L78steve L78steve is offline
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Torch is how its done. Same as starter ring gear. But some like to do it the hard way.
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Old 02-22-2018, 08:21 PM
earntaz earntaz is offline
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AND another method I have used is to set the gear on a 100 watt light bulb for about 15 minutes ... pick it up with a pliers and drop it on the shaft ... TAZ
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Old 02-22-2018, 09:43 PM
crash crash is offline
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If you use 1 1/4" pipe its the correct size and will not damage the drive gear...

The steel drive gears are a very close interference fit, doesn't take much effort...

By the time you get the torch out and lit, I'd already have the gear on the main shaft...

It just seems like a big production for a simple task...

Hope this helps... Crash
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  #17  
Old 02-25-2018, 10:32 PM
L16pilot L16pilot is offline
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Update: Success...steel drive gear installed.

I preheated the oven to 500 degrees, then heat soaked the drive gear for 30 minutes. With swift action normally reserved for a trained Olympian, I positioned the gear on the output shaft and in one fluid motion, placed the iron pipe "driver" over the shaft and tapped...almost nothing. Tapped again...absolute nothing. Tapped it off and I got maybe 20-30 thou engagement. Okay, on to plan B. Fired up the torch, took it to a nice dull red and it literally slipped on without any coaxing. Actually had time to check the position without being rushed.

Lots of ways to skin a cat, but heating the gear in an oven to 500F just wasn't quite enough. If the output shaft were out of the trans, I would have preferred to press the gear on, but the torch method definitely worked for me.
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1970 Z28, Norwood 03A, 48 48, 723 Int, M20, COO, 2021 Legends Platinum restored
1970 L78, Norwood 04C, 17 17, 711 Int, M21, COO, born-with drivetrain project.
1972 Z28, Norwood 11C project, born-with drivetrain, 26 26, 775, M20, CGG project
1970 Z28, Norwood 05C, 48 G, 720 Int, M21, COZ, Original Unrestored (SOLD)
www.2ndGenZ.com
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  #18  
Old 02-26-2018, 12:14 PM
earntaz earntaz is offline
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Bottom line -- ya' got it installed ... TAZ
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