|
Register | Album Gallery | Thread Gallery | FAQ | Members List | Calendar | Become a Paid Member | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#361
|
||||
|
||||
I just got the heads-up from Steve Shauger, that Hot Rod has a nice article on the Vintage Certification at MCACN and it features some coverage of Enrico's Formula. Even has their 50th wedding anniversary photo taken at the show. Nice!
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/amazi...tte-nationals/ |
#362
|
||||
|
||||
Very cool! Enrico, "There's a typo in the VIN"-then him getting a judging t-shirt, too
__________________
Bruce Choose Life-Donate! |
#363
|
||||
|
||||
It's always something! I have been ignoring the SD lately, with all the mechanical attention I have been paying to the Gramma Car.
I took the SD out for its first drive of the year and the rear brakes locked and wouldn't release. I had to crack both bleeder screws to release the pressure and get the car rolling again. I spent the afternoon removing the proportioning valve to send it to Whitepost for rebuilding. Shipped it off this morning. Luckily I had another valve from a 1972 to install in its place to keep everything from leaking out completely. Whitepost had previously sleeved the original master cylinder and rear wheel cylinders a couple years ago. Hopefully this is the final component that needs attention, and not the master cylinder (again), unless anyone has any other ideas on the matter??? |
#364
|
|||
|
|||
Maybe the flexible line that goes to the rearend is worn out and acting as a one way valve?
Jason |
#365
|
||||
|
||||
Correct. My mechanic buddy suggested the same thing. I have an NOS hose coming today. Whitepost called and it's $150 plus shipping to rebuild the valve. I also alerted them that it's a survivor car and not to refinish the valve,just leave the exterior as is.
I asked them to examine it when it got there and they confirmed that it was activated and locked. So when the rear hose collapsed internally, and froze the rear brakes, the pressure differential then activated the combination valve (which is what they call the proportioning valve in the 2nd gen cars). |
#366
|
||||
|
||||
Whitepost does fast work! Even though they said it would take three days, I had it back in my hands on Friday, after they got it Tuesday. So I guess they mean including shipping time as well!
Once I got it back I plugged the openings and let it sit out in the hot sun and soak, in a bowl of Evaporust, so the surface rust would wash away. This is how it looked after an hour or so. I then removed the plugs and used brake clean to make sure all the internal passages were free of any residue. It's interesting how you can see the "3 170" date code stamped on both sides. As for the original rear hose, I removed it and attempted to blow air through the hose - nothing came out. It is completely swollen shut inside. So let that be a lesson on survivor cars with original brake hoses! And the combination valve reinstalled and brakes bled. I took her for a test drive and the brakes work great again. Last edited by njsteve; 04-29-2017 at 12:37 AM. |
#367
|
|||
|
|||
Very good work steve, keepin that car alive like it was 1975
|
#368
|
||||
|
||||
More tinkering. The heat buildup in the rear drums caused by the swelled up hose, ruined the original set of brake return springs. I replaced the entire set with some NOS ones I had as it seemed like the shoes were dragging and not returning to their original positions. After a test drive the rear drums were around 300 degrees. When I pulled the springs off, including the small ones that hold the shoes to the backing plate, all of them were permanently stuck in their stretched position, except the little ones that hold the shoes to the backing plates - they were permanently compressed. The brakes seem to be working properly now.
So now I have a little collection of original parts removed from the car - all nicely labeled in separate ziploc bags. Another lesson learned: old brake components are not good to have on a survivor - if you want to survive driving it. |
#369
|
||||
|
||||
I was getting the old girl ready for a photo shoot today and took it for a half mile drive when suddenly the car starts wobbling. Yup you guessed it. Another one of the NOS 1973 Firestone 500 tires exploded. This was one I got off craigslist a few years ago. I had an NOS spare tire and rim from a 1974 T/A in the garage so I bolted that on the car and we were good to go. Those Firestone 500s are real widow-makers. I was only going 15 MPH at the time. I can't imagine what people went through with these things when they were new, back in the 1970's and Firestone denied that there was any problem whatsoever.
Here's what it looked like while still inflated. It continued snapping the steel cords and shredding as I was taking the photo. Last edited by njsteve; 08-16-2017 at 09:37 PM. |
#370
|
||||
|
||||
And after I deflated it. BTW, those are steel cords sticking out of there, not polyester.
Last edited by njsteve; 08-16-2017 at 09:39 PM. |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|