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  #41  
Old 05-23-2017, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by TMagda View Post
That "driver quality" rally green looks perfect to me!
He did a real nice job and floats metallic colors very well. I call it a driver paint job because the car is intended to be driven and the paint is a common mid grade commercial Dupont product, but he did lay it on and polish it out nicely.

Should last many years like this.
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  #42  
Old 05-24-2017, 02:15 AM
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i should have taken Hot Rod Magazines "how to paint your car" articles more seriously. Growing up, it seemed like Hot Rod threw that one in every few months in between choosing the right cam, intake swaps and how to bend tubing....


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  #43  
Old 05-24-2017, 10:28 AM
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i should have taken Hot Rod Magazines "how to paint your car" articles more seriously. Growing up, it seemed like Hot Rod threw that one in every few months in between choosing the right cam, intake swaps and how to bend tubing....


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  #44  
Old 05-24-2017, 12:29 PM
EZ Nova EZ Nova is offline
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Thanks guys! Was honestly a bit hesitant about logging back on as I figured it would be a lot harsher replies to my post. WASN'T meant to piss anyone or criticize their work or efforts, just prices on anything these days are thru the roof.

Now if let say my driver was a 100% effort paint job, that green '69 Camaro is about a 150% effort job.

I'm not sure, as it's been about 20 years since I stripped a car, but do they still HAVE or use paint stripping chemicals? You know, the brush on and then use a scraper and remove that toxic combination of paint stripper, paint and primer? I did my WHOLE '67 Chevy II 2 dr POST on a Saturday. Yes it was mostly apart, but still taped up glass. Now I didn't do in the jams or trunk. I did the engine compartment.

The reason I'm contributing to this is I'm looking at my friends old 1978 Camaro Z28. I've know all 3 owners, and my friend was the second. The car has been stiped and painted TWICE when he owned it. Body is perfect or very close. Never winter driven and I looked it over a couple weeks ago, Panels are still nicely lined up and no rust or dents that I could find and I looked it over pretty well. Might be a few small door dings, but didn't look like it. PAINT IS SHOT. Cracked and just bad. So it must be stripped. THIS is going to be a car I can drive anywhere as like a second daily driver. But it's older and will be a nice DRIVER car.

Now my guy said last car he did he had about a grand in "paint stuff" to do the job. I was hoping to get the car done for around $5,000.00 and I would supply the stripe kit. I figure it should take him, a pretty good and respected body and paint guy in my area, probably around 50 hours with a bit of my help? His rate is not stupid, 65/hr and that's includes "consumables" like paper, tape, spot putty, primer and rags. He's always busy and has more work than he wants. He wants to work a deal with me on some other stuff so we can get this in.

I'm I off on this in hours are what he said things cost? It will lay down nice as his paints do, And would have some time to polish the finish product.

IT'S ACTUALLY UP TO MY WIFE. IF she doesn't like my '61 Pontiac then I will buy this Z28.
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  #45  
Old 05-24-2017, 08:43 PM
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For this reason alone I buy my cars "done". Every car, whether we want to admit it or not, gets sold someday, and it's value is what someone will pay for it. To spend 30k on a car worth 50k when done is nuts. If its the love of your life, go to night school and learn how to do it yourself and rent booth time. Only way it makes sense really
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Old 05-24-2017, 09:04 PM
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Thats what I am doing taking a body and fender class to paint my Nova. Its amazing I am not buying the top of the line materials and still cost me about eighteen hundred in materials
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  #47  
Old 05-25-2017, 01:00 AM
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Looks good John!
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  #48  
Old 05-25-2017, 03:46 AM
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Thanks Bruce, I bet between bringing it to bare metal, doing body work some small dents no rust, epoxy primimng, high build primer, block sanding, painting and buffing. I probably have 15 hours in that fender and its not perfect.
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  #49  
Old 05-25-2017, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by ssl78 View Post
Thanks Bruce, I bet between bringing it to bare metal, doing body work some small dents no rust, epoxy primimng, high build primer, block sanding, painting and buffing. I probably have 15 hours in that fender and its not perfect.
True, but you're also not a pro who "could" get that job out in quicker fashion. AND it's black. Why not start and learn on the HARDEST color first?? LOL Not a bad thing as you'll see the issues more easily and therefore you will "learn" more as well.

Like I said, I'm a dual-ticketed tradesman, Millwright and Mold-Maker (like tool and die). BUT I went into my family business of Kitchen cabinetry as it was my dad's and my brother did it till his passing in 2012. Now the reason I bring this up as SURE I can measure and cut and install these kitchen/bath cabinetry myself, but I'm NO WHERE near as proficient as my installers who do it daily for years on end.
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'78 Z28 4sp being restored
'70 W30 convert TRIBUTE
'78 Z28 32,000 survivor, Og Yellow paint, AC.
'69 CANADIAN Nova SS 396/350 hp
'67 CANADIAN Nova SS 427 10 sec. driver
'66 CANADIAN Nova SS Race Car
'61 CANADIAN Pontiac Bubble top 409+/4sp (SOLD)
'31 ALL STEEL Chevy P.U. GONE (EX-WIFES NOW)
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