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  #101  
Old 04-17-2018, 06:12 PM
jasonL78 jasonL78 is offline
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Thanks for the info Steve, it is truly appreciated. I will search for the heat shield. Good to know about the ram air exhaust manifolds. This wasn't my call all on the owner. I just get stuck trying to make this mess work.
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  #102  
Old 04-17-2018, 11:12 PM
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Here's some links to the various heatshields. Since it's not a restoration it can be any style. But you have to have one on a Pontiac with headers or ram air manifolds. (a Chevy heatshield wont work since it's on the opposite side of the car)

https://www.firebirdcentral.com/1967...p/enc-2040.htm

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...ywordSearchCmd

On the Gramma car, I used the factory solenoid shield. You can also use the entire heatshield wrap for added protection. The more protection, the less the problem (Pontiacs with headers and/or ram air manifolds are notorious for cooking starters).

Here's a photo of the factory style heatshield on the Gramma car with ram air manifolds. See how close that manifold is to the solenoid?

And also here's a shot of the bracket that routes the factory starter wiring on the Gramma car.
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Last edited by njsteve; 04-17-2018 at 11:48 PM.
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  #103  
Old 04-17-2018, 11:22 PM
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The protection tube at the front of the engine was used to keep the positive battery cable away from the front of the exhaust manifold. You can find alternate methods to do that on a modified car. From this photo you can see the starter wires running down the front of the cylinder head and block, then it goes along the pan rail, under the motor mount and up from underneath to the starter solenoid.
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Last edited by njsteve; 04-17-2018 at 11:25 PM.
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  #104  
Old 04-18-2018, 11:46 AM
jasonL78 jasonL78 is offline
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Thanks again Steve.
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  #105  
Old 04-18-2018, 06:31 PM
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See, it would be soooo much easier if you painted my Gramma's car...I just need the body done. You can leave all the rest to me. :-)
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  #106  
Old 04-18-2018, 07:21 PM
jasonL78 jasonL78 is offline
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It may be possible I just have 3 cars to complete first. LOL Working 45HRs a week at my full time job and 10-20hours a week in my garage has been catching up to me that's for sure. I will keep plugging along.
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Old 04-20-2018, 02:02 AM
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Getting closer and closer! Waiting for the double pumper fuel line to finish the fuel line.
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  #108  
Old Today, 11:44 AM
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A couple questions on the a-body clutch and brake pedals. Is the clutch pedal supposed to be about 2" higher than the brake pedal? Does the rod from the booster belong in the bottom hole of the brake pedal? If it's in the top hole it looks like it will bind. I know the nova clutch pedal is up a little from the brake pedal but not this much.
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Old Today, 12:25 PM
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Clutch is higher sitting than brake pedal based on what the adjustment is. Here's a photo of my old T/A. Brake rod appears to be parallel to the support bracket and straight shot back, from the master cylinder. Photo from the SD455 with automatic. ( I don't know if the pedal assembly is different in an F-body. This one does not have a hole but instead has a stud where the rod's "banjo" end attaches with a retaining clip)
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Last edited by njsteve; Today at 12:28 PM.
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  #110  
Old Today, 02:28 PM
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Thanks Steve,

The automatic pedal I have from the parts car which had the power brake option used the bottom hole. I read some where last night on the web, for the manual brake cars both pedals would be equal and disk brake cars the brake and clutch pedal would be offset. I guess the manual brake cars would use the top hole because its a straight shoot to the master cylinder and the power brake cars would use the bottom hole as the booster is slightly angled. I was just trying to get confirmation on this. I actually never noticed this until I read it last night.
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