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Old 09-10-2017, 01:17 PM
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Default She Thinks My Tractor's Seeexxxxaaay!

The wife's grandfather on her mothers side bought this 1949 Ford 8N new. It has been used and abused. During the 80's it made the transition from Indiana down here to Tennessee and had a "tasteful" 12V conversion done. Tractor has sat in a barn for over 10 years due it quitting one day. After several "mechanics" looked at it and performed some hillbilly surgery the mother-n-law asked if I would look at it. So last weekend we drove over to her land and picked the ole gal up and brought her to the house so I can take a look. As you can see it was rode hard and not cherished like these sweet tractors should have been. Also notice something odd..??.. You might be saying to yourself; "Self. Why the heck is there a voltage regulator on a system that was converted to an internally regulated GM alternator 12 volt system.??.."


Apparently the redneck version of this guy
had done some shoestring, bubblegum and paper clip type and conveniently and lazily left the old voltage reg on the tractor and just cut the wiring and left it balled up in a taped rats nest of wire spaghetti on top of the 4 cylinder.
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Old 09-10-2017, 01:44 PM
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The bolt connection is a nice touch.
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Old 09-10-2017, 01:53 PM
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Once I had gutted this modern marvel of electrical engineering and replaced every stitch of copper, I began the diagnosing the problems. First up was making sure voltage was making its way to the plugs. I quickly realized everything is leading to the distributor. So I pull it off and take a closer look. First thing was the coil was shot. So I replace it. Still no spark to the plugs.. Ooook.. So I check resistance through the points.. Yep got resistance.. Crank again.. No spark.. WTF..!?!.. So I pull the dizzy and partial harness and start doing a bench test with a power supply.. FYI these tractors when converted to 12 volt system and the original style coil is used you have to add an additional ballast resistor to the system so that the coil still sees roughly 3.5 volts. Yeah I know it doesnt make sense and yes there is an easier way and more efficient way to get a better spark but due to money and trying to save the m-n-l money on parts I decided to keep it simple. After multiple tests I finally figured out 1. the jumper wire going from the condenser and coil primary to the points was missing. Added that back.. Still no spark. At this point I starting to second guess how smart I's is and those ole backyard engineers were no smarter than me.. Finally I thought maybe the contacts were glazed.. Then bingo.


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Old 09-10-2017, 02:37 PM
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Following.....
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Old 09-10-2017, 05:02 PM
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After the small victory with the ignition system I turned my attention to the fuel side of things..



So yesterday I was feeling a little gassy..
Errrr.. What I mean is its time to rebuild the carb..

As you can see one of the downfalls of these updraft carbs is that they are a cast iron piece.. Majah corrosion in the fuel bowl along with buildup from the years of neglect. As you can see these things are very simple and basic in their design and function. After the thorough cleaning and then spending half the day driving around to find no one had a carb kit in stock I came back and said the heck with it and reused the gaskets.. Amazingly no leaks. Reinstalled the carb and poured a little fuel in my make shift fuel line and tank and hit the key and starter button.. Crank, crank, crank, crank.. Crank, crank, crank, crank, fart, pop, fart crank. Nothing..

Pull the plugs and they are wet.. Well I know that its wanting to fire and as shown in the video it has a strong spark.. Ill clean them off and check the gap.... Mf'er.!!.. Gap was set to 40 thou..!!.. Reset gap to correct 25 thou and throw them back in..

Then the magic happens..





More to come but its time for the Titans to play a little football..
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Old 09-10-2017, 10:09 PM
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Good work D Dub !!
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Old 09-10-2017, 11:14 PM
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great thread! Loved reading about it and the final start/ But a question still makes me wonder. Apparently it was running after the 12v conversion and it just quit one day. How could this be? With the plugs gapped wrong and no spark because of the missing jumper.. how could it ever had run?
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Old 09-11-2017, 11:15 AM
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"Green Acres is the place to be......", they must've had Mr. Haney working on it!
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Old 09-11-2017, 11:35 AM
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You are correct it did run at one time after the 12v conversion. I cant tell you 100% what the issue was originally that caused it to stop running but I know the plugs, points, coil, wires, volt reg (twice might I add) and ignition switch were replaced during the initial not starting episode.. Now.... Since I have started working on it; I have had to replace the coil and add back the jumper on the points which either fell off during replacement or was broken and removed and not replaced.. Next on the docket is I am going to have to order a carb kit as the needle and seat are trash as I noticed fuel puddling in the throttle throat this morning from sitting, straightening out the alternator bracket setup as it is derpy position has it where it can not be adjusted and its forward and tilted downward.

Things left to do are rebuild the carb, clean the fuel tank, "tweak" the exhaust as the muffler comes into contact with the left rear brake lever, figure out how to delete the optional quick removing shifter handle and check and adjust the brakes. Oh and replace and rewire all the light bulbs as when the 12v conversion was done they decided to just cut the ends off the wiring and leave it hanging.. Im telling ya this thing was not taken care of properly.. I have to keep telling myself that I am not restoring it but just making it safe and dependable.. I have already told the m-n-l it better not get in this shape again.
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Last edited by cook_dw; 09-14-2017 at 12:10 PM.
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Old 09-11-2017, 01:35 PM
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Super effort Darrell - keep it coming and good luck. Love these old tractors!!!
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