69LM1
old hand
Reged: 12/15/03
Posts: 1065
Loc: New Orleans, LA
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Hypothetically(sp) speaking, (and there are to many questions on this car) which would you rather have. (That what I was trying to get at, did the drivetrain in this car come from the same car as the vin and trim tag?):
1. A Real CoPo, documented, but non original drivetrain
or
2. A rebodied CoPo (ttag, Vin etc) documented, with the drivetrain that came with it (the tags that is)?
Is'nt the drivetrain what made these cars special? I had heard that the VIN by the oil filter was very difficult to restamp, and was wondering if that was urban myth or true.
Think I'll stick with the SS396! Way less and no issues!
Rich
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Rich
www.69lm1.com/4sale
69 X66
70 Monte SS454
70 Z CoPo
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camarojoe
Reged: 09/02/03
Posts: 4255
Loc: PA
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Real car over rebody... any day. Didn't we just hash this all out a week ago? 
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Joe Barr
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prototype
member
Reged: 11/23/05
Posts: 179
Loc: calgary, alberta canada
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Real car, hands down!!!
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69L72RS
Reged: 09/18/03
Posts: 335
Loc: Ohio, USA
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Hi Rich.
A real car with real body is the only way to go. IMO
I will post my opinion on the ease of restamping the VIN by the filter, hopefully without causing too much of a disturbance.
It is way to easy!!! The difficulty is a myth. 
They count on the buyers not knowing what to look for.
1)Start with a "CE" block for the best result (no Vin stamp by filter).
2)Deck/rebroach block.
3)Rent gang stamp sets from sellers in Hemmings
4)Restamp block
5)Return stamp set
6)You magically now have a numbers matching block. 
The good news is that "CE" blocks are usually easy to identify.
There are are a few other types of blocks that work better
for "restamping" for certain models of cars, but they have a much higher intial cost for the "donor" block.
Buyers should always know what they are looking at and how to tell if it real before making the purchase.
Sorry for rambling on about an off topic subject. Just tried to answer Rich's question about the ease of block stamping.
Hey Rob, I will send you the checklist for block switches
and what to look for next week.
Later,
Eric
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Jeff H
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 02/15/01
Posts: 2214
Loc: Ewing, NJ
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I would never want a rebody no matter what. The swapped tags are illegal and could lead to big trouble in the future. Who really has the title to the car with that VIN? As for clone vs real with missing original drivetrain, as long as each vehicle is represented for what it is, it would depend on the price as to which vehicle I would want to buy. If you put all the correct Z28 or COPO parts on a 327 car then it would be just as much fun to drive as a real Z28 or COPO so it would come down to price.
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69 Z28 JL8, #'s match, crossram - being restored
00 Camaro SS
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YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY
Reged: 04/27/00
Posts: 10248
Loc: PA
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The real body.
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Marlin
70 Yenko Nova-LT1, M21, 4.10's
69 SS Nova-L78, M20, 3.55's
67 RS Camaro-LF7, M35, 3.08's
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camarojoe
Reged: 09/02/03
Posts: 4255
Loc: PA
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A real car with unoriginal drivetrain would have already sold months ago at the asking price of the car in question IMO. That should tell you something about what's really more important to most people.
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Joe Barr
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69LM1
old hand
Reged: 12/15/03
Posts: 1065
Loc: New Orleans, LA
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Cool Deal. Thanks for all of the info. I will suggest to him that he "comes clean" when selling the car and he may get a better response from the community, and may be able to actually sell it as a clone.
Rich
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Rich
www.69lm1.com/4sale
69 X66
70 Monte SS454
70 Z CoPo
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