Cloning/427 questions

[EZ Nova]

I have a '69 SS396/350 4sp. Nova. The org. drivetrain is long gone. So I did it up as a Yenko YSC car. Not to be totally "cloned" but I liked the way the stripes and hood broke up the panels and made the car look. Car is Red with black bench from factory, now with black Yenko YSC treatment. I did this about 5 years ago.

Now I want to make this the ULTIMATE Yenko. Like something Don never did, ZL-1. Or more correctly, Aluminum block and heads built with the best GM at the time offered.

So, here are the questions:

1. Block. What would be considered the best block to use? I know I can get a Dart, but what about the OEM/factory style, like the one with Yenko embossed on them?

2. Heads. I know the factory ZL-1's were the 074's, but what other heads HAVE the "Winters" snowflake? The heads WILL have a bit of work in them, so not looking for any nice, untouched "dated" heads. Leave then for the proper cars?

3. Intake. Same here. WHAT IS THE BEST FLOWING OR "WORKING" OEM INTAKE? Again, it will be port matched and maybe cleaned up, but would like it to be a GM intake, and not an aftermarket.

So there you have it. Looking for some insight from those who know these things in and out. Motor will most likely be a 468 as size can be anything I want. This is being built for a driver/stripe toy but with the best the factory offered with the best whatever they may be parts. So maybe a ZL-1 version of a LS-7 (Alum. blocked LS-7). But I would like to make it "look" as original as possible, without getting to nutz or endangering some of the good parts.

Thanks for any input.
John

[Fast67VelleN2O]

198 Intake Manifold, and 077 heads carry the Winters casting.

[EZ Nova]

I didn't think these were such hard questions? 255 views and only one reply? For that, I thank you.

[rpoz11]

Hi...

In this forum and others, it's generally known what most of the proper casting numbers, date codes, part numbers etc are to recreate a copy of what was original equipment for original COPO and ZL1 cars.

Maybe most are overlooking your inquiry because most of us know what it takes to make one.

I think it is of relative agreement that one should use the more recent reissue ZL1 blocks with all of the updated revisions GM did to it to be stronger and survive without failure.

You need to ask yourself:
Do you want a visually correct Appearing engine?
Or do you want to have a BB motor that is going to satisfy your end result without original part numbers,etc?

[Born30YrsLate]

...you can also remove the divider in the 163 intake and it will be identicle to the 198...and it will save some $$

[Schonyenko2]

Is cost an issue? All that aluminum is pricey. The performance at the level you're looking at may be negligeable between all aluminum, and cast iron block, and al heads. L89. And Don didn't build any of those either.

[EZ Nova]

Thanks, guys. I guess what I'm trying to do is make something that will visually look like an OEM ZL-1, with "snowflakes" on the heads and intake. I'm not up on all the numbers as I've been more into the racing side of the cars. This set-up is going to be my street car. Typical street/strip deal with Nash 5 speed, 10 point cage, 12 bolt. Most likely look like an older racer from years ago. As the car sits now, it will run low 10's with the '69 427/390 motor and PG trans. I have my '67 Deuce with a 500" NHRA Pro-Stock motor backed by a liberty for track use. So this is just going to be something to play with.

But was wondering if there was an "over-the-counter" replacement head that was available as to not use the original 074's? As for the block. I would like to find one with the "YENKO" embossed in the front, but don't know much about them, or any other ZL-1 block. I did find that the Reynolds can-am blocks are not for me. PLUS I need something that can handle some real world HP, something in excess of 750+ range.

I've talked to my engine builder, and my goals that I'd like are a little far fetched, but with some time and R&D, he feels we could do it.

[rpoz11]

[ QUOTE ]
198 Intake Manifold, and 077 heads carry the Winters casting.

[/ QUOTE ]

Then, as : Fast67VelleN2O stated, use the 198 with whatever date code(cause it is not visible installed) and use the 077's (14011077-GM #) as well as he stated(cause these date codes are not visible installed) and you will be fine.

Take a look at these :

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-BBC-A...A1%7C240%3A1318 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-BBC-ALUMINUM-HEADS-ZL1-L88-LS6-454-427-VETTE-CAMARO_W0QQitemZ260301661239QQcmdZViewItem?hash=it em260301661239&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72% 3A727%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318)

I tossed it up back and forth on using a ZL1 block in mine and came to determine, in my mind, that the cast iron block will be much more reliable over 1000's of miles of use.

At this pointe in the game, if you have a real car go for the real stuff.

If it aint real dont worry about it and use what is readily available and build it as such!

We build these to enjoy and to remember, not to fool someone out of their money!

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif

[EZ Nova]

RPO, thanks, That's what I was looking for. I've done what I've need to with the cast stuff. I'm wanting to do this for a nice driver. As for fooling someone out of there money, it will be in a Nova, Canadian doc. one, that was never offered with the ZL-1, so no chance of that, as I prefer to not sell as I've owned this car for 15+ years already.

So that pretty much sums it up for me as for heads and intakes. I have a local shop that is looking at one of my 427's AND a 402 short block as trade towards some part for this. He said he has 077 but not 074's anyways.

Just need to figure on a block???

Thanks, and if you guys can, please keep the info coming.

[Schonyenko2]

PM Kim Howie. His Gibb/Harrell camaro has about the setup you need, minus the tunnel ram. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/3gears.gif

[GREEN4SPDSS]

If interested I have a L-88 motor 512 over the counter short block and a set of never ported 842 heads.

[EZ Nova]

Thanks, but if I'm taking out the 427/390 motor, it will only be for a ZL-1. I've purchased an old Tunnel Ram for looks as well, ya never know, and swapping intakes only take 30 mins. any ways.

[Chevy454]

Don't waste your time on the old aluminum blocks, not at the HP you're looking for...unless you like welding/grinding/resleeving. We have a Yenko aluminum block sitting in our shop floor that was split umpteen times...go wtih the new GMPP aluminum block, or even better, a Dart/Merlin/whatever version...

[EZ Nova]

Rob, I'm really leaning towards using the Dart/Brodix/Donavan blocks as they'll handle the power with thinking twice. I would consider THAT YENKO block of yours though. It would be nice to open the hood, and see the "YENKO" on the block, snowflakes on the heads and intake, with a "fly-eye" and aluma-coated headers.

[Andy]

I agree with Rob on this one. You need a aftermarket Hi-Perf block. You could always get an aftermarket block and have Yenko Machined into it, or if you know some one who is really good with aluminum welding, they could recreate that raised crest found on a vintage block. With a new block you won't be scared to take it to its limits, but with a rare block like an original ZL-1 or Yenko, I think you would find your self babying the car more than really hammering on it.

Rob, I see that your ET has dropped substantially. What did you do to get from 12.10s to 11.70s?