Trucks, Trailers, Towing and Misc Accessories

[CamarosRus]

I'm starting this thread in hopes it becomes on ongoing thread to encompass all things related to the trucks & trailers that our members own, drive, modify, maintain, and secure.

[Salvatore]

Good idea Chuck! http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/scholar.gif

[CamarosRus]

Thanks Sam, I really enjoyed spending time with you and everyone at VetteFest.................

My 1st Issue concerns WHEN and if to replace the GOOD (unknown low milage) appearing Goodyear Marathon tires (225x75xR15 ST) on my newly purchased 2003 Pace American 10,000 GVW trailer ???

My 2nd Issue is to what brand/model radial trailer tire you've had good, bad or indifferent experiences with.

Does the top money buy the best tire or not neccessarily????

Will you name the company, vendor or web site you bought from???

I'm considering Power King TOW-MASTER 225x75xR15's @ $85each

Also my trailer came with no spare. Where do you store or mount your spare ?? and do you use the same wheel for your spare as the other four????

Thanks for your responses.........

[Smokey]

Chuck- shop around. We buy those exact tires for $59 each here in Minneapolis.

[CamarosRus]

Smokey, At what store, warehouse, where ???????? (TOW-MAX)

Link to Epinion comments about Goodyear Marathon.......
http://www1.epinions.com/reviews/Goodyear_Marathon_Radial_Trailer_Utility_Tire

[lbnaz]

Stay away from Carlisle Tires. I've had good experiences with Transmaster load range E on my horse, car, and toy hauler trailers. Larry.

[Bill Rose]

I mounted the spare on the front wall of the trailer. I built a small platform so I could run wires under the spare, for the winch and various other things.

http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee335/wrrose/100_1283.jpg

[CamarosRus]

Anybody have experience with the GREENBALL Brand of TOWMASTER Trailer Tires.....???????

[Canuck]

I have had no problems with Goodyear Marathons. I had them on a 17' flatdeck from 2000 to 2004 and put 15,000 miles on that unit. Bought a 24' Wells Cargo in 04 and have logged nearly 15,000 since then.
Just bought a 28 foot Airstream that is 10 years old and it has Goodyears on it. Two need replacing, but they held up well.

On another note I just bought a Hensley Arrow hitch> anybody have any experience with one?

I do all my towing with an 03 GMC Yukon XL 2500 with Quadrasteer. Best damm towing vehicle I could want.

Paul

[Schonyenko2]

I like the Goodyear Marathons.

[CamarosRus]

Schoney and Paul, Thanks for your responses and favorable comments on the Goodyear Marathons. A couple of our well known members have had multiple Marathon failures and dont share your feelings.....

FYI, In one case the failures were on tires only five years old, with trailer stored inside!!!!!!!
Need to hear more about ALL things trucking and trailering, locks, security, whatever!!!!!!!!!

Thanks, Chuck

[Schonyenko2]

I don't haul that far, or that often, and maybe I've just been lucky. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

[shor]

The 15" 5 lug rim, white steel "wagon" wheel
so common on many trailers today kind of limits your tire gvw ratings....carlise, towmasters, marathons...i think the failures we keep hearing about are a case of overloaded and underinflated tires.

Look at the marathon chart I copy/pasted below when you step up to a 16" rim and tire!! Multiply the gvw number by 4 since most trailers have 4 tires.and remember to run the maximun recomended inflation presure to achieve the maximun gvw rating.
I like and run 16" rims and tires on my trailer.










Marathon®

THE LONG RUNNING RADIAL DESIGN SPECIFICALLY FOR TRAILER TOWING
Features
Specifically designed to make trailer towing easier, more stable and more economical
Sizes available for travel trailers, pop-up campers, boat trailers and fifth wheel trailers
Delivers dependable highway stability, positive traction and long lasting wear
Load Inflation Tables | Warranty | Size Conversion Chart



This tire is suitable for all Trailer applications

Helpful Information On Tires Used In Towing Applications - PDF


SPECIFICATIONS
Tire Size Load Range Side
wall Tread Depth (32s) Apprvd. Rim Widths Meas. Rim Width New Tire Width Outside Diameter Tread Width Static Loaded Radius Revs per Mile Max Load at Infla. (PSI) Single
ST175/80R13 C BL 9 4.5-5.5 5.00 6.9 24.0 4.9 10.6 870 1360@50
ST185/80R13 C BL 9 4.5-6.0 5.00 7.2 24.6 5.2 10.8 851 1480@50
ST205/75R14 C BL 10 5.0-6.5 5.50 7.9 26.1 5.6 11.6 800 1760@50
ST205/75R14 C OWL 10 5.0-6.5 5.50 7.9 26.1 5.6 11.6 800 1760@50
ST215/75R14 C OWL 10 5.5-7.0 6.00 8.5 26.6 6.0 11.8 783 1870@50
ST215/75R14 C BL 10 5.5-7.0 6.00 8.5 26.6 6.0 11.8 783 1870@50
ST205/75R15 C BL 9 5.0-6.5 5.50 7.9 27.1 5.6 12.0 770 1820@50
ST225/75R15 C BL 10 6.0-7.0 6.00 8.7 28.3 6.2 12.5 738 2150@50
ST225/75R15 D BL 10 6.0-7.0 6.00 8.7 28.3 6.2 12.5 738 2540@65
ST235/80R16 D BSL 10 6.0-7.5 6.50 9.2 30.7 6.0 13.9 673 3000@65
ST235/80R16 E BSL 10 6.0-7.5 6.50 9.2 30.7 6.0 14.1 675 3420@80

Fabric/Steel Construction

[Alss]

I agree with Chris..ordering a new trailer next week and will get the heavy axles and 16 inch wheels..8 lug hub..maybe heavier bearings inside??..but on topic, have been usung TOWMASTER trailer tires for all 8 years I had my trailer..numerous flats..expected..a couple of curbs..expected...only one catstrophic failure on the NY thruway @70 MPH..lost the pass side rear tire explosively...cause underinflated!!..my own stupid fault..noticed the tire was a little low before we left and thought..it'll be fine...nope!..

ALbert

[Chevy454]

My thought has always been a taller tire is a better tire (on a trailer, at least)...seems to me, less revolutions means less heat in the bearing/tire, and it's heat that kills both. Also, a physically *larger* tire will have a higher load capacity due to the increased air volume...

[jeff morocco]

since were on this subject....dont take for granted that your wheels are torqued to spec.before every trip, check them.on the way back from new jersey we broke 5 out of the 8 studs off the right rear wheel on a triple axle trailer. we pulled into a truck stop and they sent us to some hodunk truck repair shop that needless to say didnt have the studs in stock....i drove to dexter axle in IN. and to Haulmark for 2 new wheels and tires and then back to PA to have the guy put them on......i now have an extra 20 or so studs in case that happens again. this was right before Vettefest this year and was not about to let a truck/trailer/car sit in this shop and wait til the studs came in and miss vettefest!!!!and as far as accessories, you should probably keep a small bottle jack or so in the trailer in case you need to change a tire with a car in it....way too heavy for a regular jack or make some kind of ramp to drive the trailer up to raise the other wheel so you can change it.just my .02c to add..... http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggthumpup.gif

[Chevy454]

Funny (or not, actually!) you mention wheel studs...except ours were on the drive wheels of our dually. Thought I'd be cool & put new Eagle aluminum wheels on the dually before our annual trip to the Pure Stock Drags...welp, little did I know that Eagle wasn't aware that GM made *both* an R/V and a C/K truck from 1989-1991! So, we make it all the way to Terra Haute, IN, before we sheer 6 of 8 studs on 1 side & 7 of 8 on the other side! So, on the shoulder of I70, I got to pull the axles out, run all over Terra Haute looking for wheel studs, and came up with a measily 6...so, knocked 'em in, drove all night to Stanton, dropped the cars & double trailer @ track, ran back to a hole in the wall garage, and had the tires put on our spare steel wheels, and put a couple more new studs in...for some reason, they let the new guy work on our truck, and I watched him strip the 1st 2 studs with an air gun, so I took it from him and finished it myself. Got home, and found out the *2nd* set of lug nuts Eagle had sent were the wrong ones, and allowed just enough wiggle room to eat at the stud...mark that down as "lesson learned".

BTW, we bought a trailer aid (http://www.pitpal.com/products/Black_RV_Trailer_Aid-720-13.html) to throw in our new trailer...haven't had to use it yet, but it sure sounds like a good idea!

[Canuck]

Here are the tools I keep permanently in my trailer.
I have Plastic tool box bolted to the floor at the front
Warn Winch
Deep cycle Battery
8 ton Bottle jack
1 1/2 ton hydraulic jack.
6 axel straps
2 HD cargo straps
1 cargo net
8 Light duty cargo straps
Fulton Wheel lock
Tongue lock.
Wheel chocks and several pieces of wood.
Spare tire mounted on rear rignt side.
36" pry bar
Gloves
Grease gun.
12 Volt compressor and quality tire guage.
2 pieces of carpet underlay approx 4x4

Additionally I take a Bosche portable impact gun.

The tires get checked whenever the trailer gets moved,I keep a check list posted on the entry door.

Paul

[jeff morocco]

the trailer aid will be on my list when i win PITPAL's contest!! http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif right.............Dan / Jody ??

[Chevy454]

HA! Get in line... http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggthumpup.gif

BTW: I got another PM for you, Jeff...

[CamarosRus]

would like to see more GOOD pics of how and where "YOU" strap down your car, hang your spare tire, secure floor jack, etc etc.........

[Canuck]

Went to my favourite hitch shop today to have the hitch inspected. When I was towing last week I felt there was too much movement on acceleration from a stop and a clunk on brakeing. Turns out the hitch pin hole has started to elongate. This is the factory GM hitch and although I have heard negative things about them such as cracking and broken welds, i did not have any problems up until now. In essence the hitch is toast so I ordered u a Putnam 15,000 lb unit.
The rep I spoke with at Hensley Arrow says GM factory hitches up until the 08 models are garbage.
Paul

[CamarosRus]

Canuck and others,

1)May we assume that ALL(GM, Dodge, Ford)the misc factory hitches are bolted to frame, and can be replaced with ????

2) How many million people (including members here) are towing with factory "garbage" hitches ???????

3) What of DODGE 2500 factory hitches ?? Anybody ?????

Thanks to ALL for the ongoing education!!!!!

[Chevy454]

The GM hitch pin hole will definitely egg shape over time, but it's gonna take quite a bit of miles/time...a logger buddy of mine has an '04 and the factory pin hole is hogged out pretty good, but that truck lives with a trailer behind it...our '02 dually pulled our little trailer probably a dozen times per year or more, and our hitch is ok...weld a piece of heavy C channel on it and roll on...!

[Canuck]

All the GM hitches are bolt on and can be replaced with equivelent products from Putnam, Hidden, reese or Curt.
The replacements sit snuggly to the bumper on Suburbans and Yukons and as such the equalizer will need adjustment or if you are using a fixt drop stinger,you will need to change that as well. I had a 2" drop for my Hensley with the factory hitch and am switching to a 4" drop for the new Putnam.

Paul

[CamarosRus]

THIS IS REPRINT FROM A TIRE CORP EXECUTIVE


Subject: RMA Aged Tire Position



I want everyone to be aware that there was a program segment on ABC’s 20/20 (5/09/2008) dealing with tire aging. I am attaching some RMA (Rubber Manufactures Association) information on this subject for your review and so you will have information if the program creates questions in our customers mind and they come to you for answers.



As you will see below RMA takes the position that there is no proven age at which a tire must be removed from a vehicle. The information that RMA wants to get out is that the tire care is the most important element in the life and safety of a tire not the age of the tire...



Our organization is not experts in tire design or development of tires we depend on the manufacture to determine the safety of the product they manufacture. We are governed by the position of the Rubber Manufacture Association.



Below is an article stating RMA’s position on tire aging; you will also find information on how to read the sidewall of a tire so you will be sure as how to read the DOT serial date to determine the age of a tire.



Background:
Some people promote the idea of a tire age limit – that tires should be removed from service once they reach a certain age - either number of years from date of manufacture or number of years in service.

The Rubber Manufacturers Association (RMA) represents the position that there is not one specific chronological age at which tires should be removed from service because there is no data that supports a specific age. For both the April 30 segment on “Today,” and the upcoming “20/20” segment, an RMA official was interviewed on tape, and parts of these interviews are being used in the news programs’ stories.

During the interviews, the RMA official stated the organization’s position on the issue, which is consistent with Goodyear’s position.
1. There is no data to support a particular year after which tires should be removed from service.
2. The reason the industry takes the position it does, is twofold:
A. Tire care is a greater factor in their safe operation than age alone; and
B. as a result of that, any suggestion that would encourage the public to believe that tires less than X years old are completely reliable regardless of tire care (or anything that would take the emphasis off tire care) would be a huge disservice.

What you need to know:
This information is for your own awareness, and for that of your store personnel. It is possible that after the segment airs on TV, some consumers may ask about the tire age issue when they visit your store. Again, the main points are these:

Age is not the key.
Consistent maintenance, proper inflation and regular inspection for tread wear patterns and damage are the keys to good tire performance
There is no data that demonstrates a tire is less safe when it reaches a certain age.
For consumers who are concerned about the age or condition of their tires, it is recommended they let a tire professional inspect the tires.



The above information is pretty much self explanatory however I would like to make sure that we all read the DOT serial “Date of Manufacture” correctly.

All highway tires produced in the year of 2000 or later will have the four numeric character DOT serial date.

[CamarosRus]

I would like to read postings as to what changes, updates, modifications you're making on your truck/trailer/towing equipment............

1) Does anybody use a metal "hook" to catch the factory oblong hole on front subframe.........or do most use a axle strap around lower control arms ????????

2) There is no real evidence that AGE alone, is a reason to replace tires !!!!!


Thanks for your additional comments.........

[SmallHurst]

Chuck,
I use the oblong holes, but I use the t-hook that you can get from Northern Hydraulic. It has all rounded edges so it will not cut the frame. Those holes were used by the factory for transprot, so they are designed to hold up. It also loads the suspension so that the car is not bouncing around when the trailer goes over bumps. You can dip those t-hooks in plasit-dip to keep them from marring up your frame.

As for trailer tires, last season I had 2 go on me. One was a true blow out and another was the tread seaperating on me and growing a large bubble on the tread. My trailer was 3 years old last summer. I would strongly suggest that if you are going anywhere, have a spare mounted. If you are going over 500 miles in one direction, I would consider carrying another tire that could be mounted in case you get stuck in a place that does not have any tires available. By the way, as much as I hate doing business with WalMart, they do carry Good Year Marathon trailer radials (and even the D range tires).

[CamarosRus]

Rusty, Thanks for the comments..........

Curious if when using those "T" hooks (that the car transports use) if there is a problem getting a straight line pull on the rachet strap.

My application would be 69 Camaro with front spoiler.

I've been told by another member with 69 Yenko Camaro that he goes around lower control arm, with axle strap!!!!!!

[SmallHurst]

Here is the t-hook I was talking about... Northern Tool (http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_43572_43572) Sorry I stated Northern Hyrdaulic-- it is Northern Tool. They are designed to lock into that hole and not let go!! I have e-track in the floor and I have to cross my straps. If I had the in the floor tie downs, I would go ahead and run them straight. I work at the Ford KC Assembly plant as a supplier and every transporter that I see is using chain, t-hooks and pulling straight down loading the suspension.

The only problem that I had when I tried the straight line pull was 1) the e-track attachments wanting to put a wrong pull on the e-track (it was off center and wanted to pull one corner up) and 2) making certain that I had enough strap laid out. That was easy to change with the e-track, but it would be a pain with the set in tie downs.

One thing with the axle strap around the lower control arm, get the axle strap that has a sleeve around it or wrap a towel, vibrating nylon does wonders to well detailed paint!!! http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

[Smokey]

I did the straps, the t hooks and also did the straps over the tires. The straps over the tire don't do any paint scuffing.



As for what works best for you depends on where and how your points are in the floor of the trailer.

[CamarosRus]

Freshening up this thread..........

Please post more great comments on what changes or additions youve made to your trucks and trailers.

What new items, both functional or cosmetic you've added.

What brand name or model# LOCK do you use on your 2 5/16"
Hitch at the ball location AND on the little lever handle ??

[Smokey]

How big of a winch do you guys use to put the car inside the trailer with? How about a China winch over a Warn or another name brand one.


Reason why I ask some guy here in Minneapolis is selling china 8000lb winches for $200 new in the box. The Warn one that is like it is $600-900 depending where you get it. The only bad thing is the 12 foot lead on the controls.

[Smokey]

As for a lock, I use a Chevy truck in front of it. I bought a $30 lock, but from what a friend of mine at a boat marina told me is that if someone wants it, they will cut it off and still take it. So an ins. policy is the best lock on it. They get a few stolen a year...with and without boats on them.

[chads454Ls6]

Smokey,you can order a cordless remote for the winch. they are around $135.00 and any northern tool and equipment can get them.

Chad

[Smokey]

Did you put the winch on the side of the trailer or in front? On a friends old Doc Holiday trailer, Doc mounted a 4,000 pound winch that is about 20 years old on his.Its on the side next to the walk in door and they used a pully to to get a straight pull.

[Chateau Slate 66]

Did you pull the trigger on a truck purchase, Chuck? I assume you got my email with the contact info for my co-worker I sent you a while back?

[CamarosRus]

After shopping for way too long I finally bought a truck, last Thursday 3/12/09.

2003 DODGE Ram 3500 Quad Cab, Long Bed, Single Rear Tire, Cummins 305H.O., 3:73 with 6spd (stick), TWO Wheel Drive

One previous older owner, all stock, never modified. well maintained.

I understand that the owners at this forum, collect mostly Chevrolet/G.M. cars, and lean toward owning the Chev/GMC trucks. In spite of the fact that the GMC would have been a nicer interior truck, all my research had me shopping for the 03/04 "sweet spot" Cummins in terms of MPG and towing capability. I could have gone either way on the trans. Six speed will be best for towing and gives better mpg.

I plan to stylize the truck to my tastes.I'm looking to add Alloy wheels, the DODGE/Hella fog lights, front tow hooks (for when I get stuck) and a few other things. If your aware of junk yards with late model DODGE trucks, please advise me with name and city.

I had pictures, but while deleting and organizing my truck shopping files, I managed to delete them (DOH!!!!)

New pictures coming............

[CamarosRus]

I need to buy a electric brake controller........

Are you guys all over the board on this one ?????

From what Ive gathered so far the TEKONSHA Prodigy 90195 is the best.........(and most expensive also)

http://www.etrailer.com/p-90195.htm

Where did you buy ???

Your comments please !!!!

[RamAirDave]

I would have to check, but we run Warn (somewhere around 2000lb. rating) winches on all of our trailers. Bought from TSC for a couple hundred or so. That's static rating, not rolling.

Wingnut the leads to a deep-cycle batt, and it hasnt flinched yet and we haul a lot of stuff on a regular basis.

[CT Mark]

I just spent a bunch of time this weekend wiring my tow vehicle so that I can run the winch using the tow vehicle's battery (with the truck running of course). I'm tired of messing with the batteries in the trailer,,,always worrying about charging it. I ran wire from the battery to the hitch. Then from the winch to the tongue. I use a 4 foot length of wire with quick connect on both ends to bridge the gap. Anyone else done this?

[Chateau Slate 66]

I have the regular Prodigy (about $20 bucks cheaper) and absolutely love it. We also use them at work with great success. It is very adjustable and comes on nice and smooth.

The one you are looking at has even a couple more features and is probably worth the extra $20.

There is an adapter that comes with the truck when it is new (if you still have it) that makes it a snap to install the controller. I am sure it is readily available from a dealer if you didn't get it with the truck. Just pay close attention to the wire labels because the colors do NOT match between the adapter and a Tekonsha controller.

[RamAirDave]

[ QUOTE ]
I just spent a bunch of time this weekend wiring my tow vehicle so that I can run the winch using the tow vehicle's battery (with the truck running of course). I'm tired of messing with the batteries in the trailer,,,always worrying about charging it. I ran wire from the battery to the hitch. Then from the winch to the tongue. I use a 4 foot length of wire with quick connect on both ends to bridge the gap. Anyone else done this?

[/ QUOTE ]

Yeah, I hear ya. Something we just haven't gotten around to doing. The deep cylcle batt is usually good for a dozen pulls or so (I have no idea for sure, but we don't have to constantly charge it while pulling a vehicle or two/week on average), but would be nice to just plug it into the tow vehicle.

Just looked through pics, and the only one I have is one of the few low-res that I didn't save the hi-res. Shows 1700 on it.

[Eddie M.]

when I use the winch to load I found that it will pull power through the charge wire and get it hot then I end up with a bad connection from a over heated connection at the plug only to find out the battery is dead because of it so I put a switch in the trailer to shut off the charge wire so it won't back feed when I load with winch I also put a volt gauge in the trailer so I could watch it.
works great now

[CamarosRus]

15" Trailer Tire issue is driving me nuts!!!!!!!!!!

I want to replace the 6 year old GY Marathons, but with what ???????

I've joined a DODGE Cummins Forum after buying my (new) 03 Quad-Cab RAM. Many of these guys pull heavy fifth wheel trailers. A lot of them use 16" wheels are installing Michelin LT "Ribs" commercial truck tires or a 16" Goodyear G614 trailer tire..............

I really dont want the expense of going 16" and not even sure they would fit (diameter and width) on my 20 Pace American Shadow GT.

Anyway, after reading for hours on end, I just cant find or reach a conclusion........

Also read whereas MAXXIS has a load range E tire, that some have used........where others still bad mouth ALL the Chinese tires.......

Rant over.................

[Charley Lillard]

I have usually gotten good tire recommendations from my Les Schwabb dealer. Doesn't hurt or cost anything to talk to them. You might even call the Tire Rack and talk to them.

[CamarosRus]

Charley, First of all, I do THANK YOU for responding.

Les Schwab has manym dealers with may opinions. I believe the only 15" trailer tire that Schwab sells is either the Towmaster or Towmax. There is absolutely no conviction or comclusions on the internet, by REAL users (not tire salesmen) that any of these ST chinese made trailer tires hold up.

For those that will suggest, yes I know that DENMAN tires are made in Mexico.

I honestly believe this is one of those subjects, that will never reach an answer with any conclusion......

[Chateau Slate 66]

Have you looked at the reviews/ratings on Tirerack.com? I have found their user reviews helpfull and pretty accurate in the past.

[CamarosRus]

I have SOLD my 6 year old Goodyear Marathon 225 X 75 X 15 tires and Enkei Modular wheels for $400. Tires had NO visible defects and 8/32 thread. ALL the misc aging discussion I have read about convinced me to throw in the towel and start over........NEW !!!!!!!!!!

I woundup calling Les Schwab's headquaters today in Oregon. They have over 400 stores throughout the West.

Last year they sold 24,000+ TOWMAX 225 x 75 x 15 ST trailer tires Load Range D (2540@65psi). In 2008 they had a little over 100 that were brought back for misc warrnty issues.

Man I spoke with informed me that TOWMAX recently came out with a 10Ply/Load Range E in the 225 X 75 X 15, good 2830#@ 80psi. Schawb sells these 10 ply's for $115 each (plus mount/balance)

I also spoke with a tire employee at COSTCO about BFG Commercial T/A All Seasons in 225 X 75 X 16 that are 29.4 inches dia 8.8 wide on a 6" Rim. Has anybody seen or tried 16" wheels/tires on a Pace, Haulmark, trailer with 6 lug, 5000# axles......

Anyway, I'm leaning towards the 10Ply 15" Towmasters and new Enkei Motorsport Wheels that are made for Pace American.

I have read pages of threads from a variety of forums on the net. The only conclusion I did find was that many of the 16" fifth wheel R/V guys went to the $$$ Michelin XPS Rib Tire. I believe these have what is called a ALL STEEL CASE. These are not offered in 15" sizes.

Anybody been buying trailer tires or THINKING about it ????

Thanks for reading and replying

Chuck Sharin

[Charley Lillard]

Schwabb also is usually great about Warranty.

[gb70]

I use Schwabb Tires and will honor any warrenty issues no problems. Free rotations too.

[resto4u]

Schwabb??? did he give up on finance and start selling tires? http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/haha.gif http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/CharleySucks.gif

[CamarosRus]

While at the Portland,OR swap meet I bought the factory (05-06) polished Aluminum wheels for my "new" 03' DODGE Ram.

I also am adding the factory front tow hooks. This is for I get stuck, because I didnt buy a 4X4.

MORE comments on trailer tires, please!!!!!!!!

[Charley Lillard]

Trust the Schwabb guys...they sold 24000 of em. The guys here are informed and mostly car people. They are not just tire dummies. Most Schwabb employees are long term guys that stay with the company. I usually loan them a car for a display in their booth at a show. They have some of the best customer service I have come across.

[BUIZILLA]

[ QUOTE ]
I also spoke with a tire employee at COSTCO about BFG Commercial T/A All Seasons in 225 X 75 X 16 that are 29.4 inches dia 8.8 wide on a 6" Rim. Has anybody seen or tried 16" wheels/tires on a Pace, Haulmark, trailer with 6 lug, 5000# axles......

[/ QUOTE ] Chuck, I have seen a LOT of VERY high $$$$ offshore boat guys running these Comm T/A's lately.. i'm talking 1/2M to 1.5 Mil boats here.... no issues whatsoever... if they trust them for that they are damm sure good for me.. i'd buy them in a heart beat..

JH

[CamarosRus]

My "new" 2003 DODGE 3500 came with MICHELIN LTX A/S 265 x70 x 17 Tires. These are probably the most popular all season HIGHWAY tires that MICHELIN makes. Now my truck is a two wheel drive and for the most part we see little if any snow in Western Washington.

Interested to hear what brands and style #'s of HIGHWAY tires, you're using on your TWO-WHEEL drive tow rigs. I suspect many of you guys that get snow use a M/S type of tire.

Oh well just thought I'd ask anyway............

Regards,

Curious what

[BARN FIND]

I have a 03 Ram 2500 and although it is 4WD it still runs the same size tires stock. I do not really like the Michelin tires, they don't have what I would consider great traction in the rain or off road. And when I say off road I don't mean out in the boonies 4 wheeling, I mean driving through the yard especially when it is wet. In the 265 size I like the BFG AT and I like the Mastercraft Courser A/T even more. They both run quiet and have great traction in all situations. Also, most tire companies make this 265 tire in both E and C load range, E is stock and it is what you need. Also if you get BFG's and you want a little more attitude you can put 315-70-17 on the back ( they won't fit on the front of a 2WD stock) they have the same 3195lb load range as the 265 E's. A friend of mine owns a tire store so I have had all of these tires on mine at one time or another, I even put some 265 C load range on this winter to see if it would smooth out the ride since I didn't plan on towing anything all winter.

[PxTx]

I'm on my second set of Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armor tires. I chose these because of their wet traction performance. My truck is also 4wd, it's a 2001 Chevy 2500HD Crew with an 8.1L. Tires are load range E. I get about 50k out of these tires and they are very smooth on the highway.

The OE Goodyears on this truck were very poor in the rain. I've not had good experience with BFG in the rain, but I am referencing the stock BFG on a 2001 S-10 ZR2 a friend had. They were good on all other aspects.

I run on the highway abot 25k a year and see a huge value in wet traction. I would not run any other tire since I am 100% happy, despite the cost. Not much help since it's another 4wd application, but maybe others reading this can relate.

[CamarosRus]

How would YOU define wet traction. Does that have to do with stopping on wet pavement or ?????

COSTCO is a huge seller of MICHELIN tires. Even with the expense of the LTX A/S or AT2 (over $200) there mount/balance/rotation/warranty program keeps customers coming back.

I've been looking at the www.tirerack.com (http://www.tirerack.com) reviews and trying to make something of them ????????

Thanks for your input..........

[BARN FIND]

This morning at about 7:15am I was eastbound on I26 in Johnson City, TN, as I cam across a iced up bridge the Ram 3500 3 cars ahead of me slid and hit the barrier, I didn't slide. He had Michelin, I had Mastercraft, I say thats better traction.

[PxTx]

Wet traction for me are mainly these two things. 1: Good predictable braking on the highway in wet and icy conditions, 2: Pulling away from a stop sign in the rain slightly aggressivly and still having the tires planted without wheel spin.

Sure there is alot of operater variables, but I am comfortable with my choice.

[wheelhop]

Anybody buy stuff from E-Trailer.com?

good deals on tires, brakes, accessories, whatever your trailer needs.

I got 4 new sets of brakes for my trailer, pre-hung on new backing plates, for $45 x 4 .

[CamarosRus]

I just bought the TEKONSHA Prodigy brake controller and a Tongue/Ball LOCK from www.Etrailer.com (http://www.Etrailer.com)

I ordered enough to get free shipping. Fast service. Good web site

[CamarosRus]

Once again my DODGE Ram 3500 Quad Cab/Long Bed is a 2WD !!!

I am now considering buying the GENERAL TIRE (owned by German tire mfg CONTINENTAL) GRABBER HTS Load Range E 265x70x17.

This HIGHWAY tire with some All-Terain attributes, bested all the other brands last year with Consumer Reports. It also ranks # 1 at www.tirerack.com (http://www.tirerack.com)

See the survey results............. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/surveydisplay.jsp?type=HAS

Even though my Michelin A/S's have 8/32 thread left, I'd rather sell them as they are, mounted on the chrome clad steel OEM wheels.I have them on Seattle CRAIG's list now.

I now have bought polished aluminum OEM wheels and would rather start over with new tires.

www.discounttireDIRECT.com (http://www.discounttireDIRECT.com) (different from Discount Tire retail) has best overall price including FREE shipping and NO sales tax. Then Discount (locally) will mount, balance and rotate for $20 each.

Thanks for reading and relating YOUR experience.....

[CamarosRus]

Asking for suggestions and ideas regarding a inexpensive elec winch mounted on floor for pulling non-operating cars into my trailer...

Then, can I have it powered via 12Volt from truck......how, where ???????

Dont plan on using often and dont want to spend big money on something fancy and overkill..........

Thanks,

[wheelhop]

Etrailer.com might have something for you.
Also if cheap is your criteria, try Harbor Freight Tools.
They've got a lot of inexpensive winches.

[RamAirDave]

[ QUOTE ]
Asking for suggestions and ideas regarding a inexpensive elec winch mounted on floor for pulling non-operating cars into my trailer...

Then, can I have it powered via 12Volt from truck......how, where ???????

Dont plan on using often and dont want to spend big money on something fancy and overkill..........

Thanks,

[/ QUOTE ]

Like I've mentioned, we have Warn 1700 winches on/in both trailers and they've been great. Haven't directly hooked them to power from the truck, just keep batteries with them.

And we use them a lot.

[CamarosRus]

So I decided on the Harbor Freight 3000# (that's not static)
$129 winch. Wound up being on sale for $99 and then I used a 20%off coupon on top of that. As little as I'll use it, that $80 winch will last longer than I will.

I can probably figure out how to structurally mount it through the Plywood floor and into some steel.

I'd like some suggestions on what kind of 12Volt Battery I need to use ? What to mount it in?? and How to wire it.

Then do I keep it charged with one of those little float chargers that you use on your classic car battery??

Thanks for any help.....

[Canuck]

I mentioned in one of the earlier posts that I had purchased a Hensley Arrow Hitch.
I used it for thr first time last week on an 750 mile trip with my Airstream. I gotta tell you it is one smooth hitch.
No sway,no bouncing,easy to turn easy to back up with.
I had ordered additional brackets for attachment to my Wells Cargo so in Sept I will have experience with that trailer as well.

Paul

[CamarosRus]

Shall we search for a web site showing pics and info, or might you post your pics and tell us about the
technology ?????

Thanks,

[SmallHurst]

I read about this when I was looking at my setup : Hensley Arrow (http://www.hensleymfg.com/)

I have the Reese Trunnion Bar Weight distribution setup with the Dual Cam sway control. It has worked great for me!

Reese Products (http://www.reeseprod.com/)

[Canuck]

Sorry for not posting the link, thanks for the follow up Rusty.

Paul

[CamarosRus]

Wanting to improve my rachet strap tie down system for 69/70 Camaros.........

1) I'd like to convert my rachet handles to having snap hooks on one end to hook directly to D-ring or tie down point of trailer floor. Do YOU do this or see it done commonly ????

2) I've seen or been told where many secure front of car by going between lower control arm and frame with axle strap, then grabbing both metal ends and pulling with rachet strap in X pattern, OR straight.

This allows suspension to move up/down in trailer, correct. Any pros/cons here ???

When I had my drag car many years ago, I anchored into factory subframe hole and pulled front suspension down.

Other than potentially scratching painted frame, why is this practice not being done more.

Thanks for the education

[ORIGLS6]

I've always preferred to cross my tie-downs. Common sense tells me the car has less chance of shifting side-to-side in a mishap of any kind.
As far as hooking to the suspension vs the body that's a whole other can of worms. My Nova is currently in my trailer and I have the front straps hooked to the frame and the rear ones to the axle! Duh! http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif (actually there's a reason for it but the explanation takes too long. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif)

[jeff morocco]

i never tie the straps to the chassis. i also use the axle straps around the control arms and around the rear axle. and of course in an "X" pattern for the reason Dennis said. going directly to the frame , you could possibly either break the strap or the hook could damage the hole that you're in and that would not be good. i like to let the car "float" if you will, and the straps will never move.

[CamarosRus]

Not arguing here.......just stating my past experience and wanting to learn.

When I had the #27 ZL-1 and my later C/SM 69 Drag Car on open car trailer, I used factory sub frame oblong holes to pull car down and NOT let car float. Traveled many miles back and forth while racing Div 6, NHRA and never had a problem. Went around axle in back.

Now with the restored/show cars most everyone says to let car float and secure around lower control arm.

LZDick has reported an incident towing Larry G's 70 Z where lower control arm cut strap.......

I'm wondering if either way is "OK" or is their a distinct right and wrong here ?????

Also, why doesnt anyone use basket straps around front/rear wheels tieing down to E-track on floor. I suspect, its just too difficult or awkward to get straps, rachets, etc in place and work the rachet ?????????

Thanks for YOUR input!!!!

[Bill Rose]

The front lower control arms can and do cut thru the straps. I use 18" long straps, with O-rings on the ends. Then strap that to the d-rings with rachets. Then when the 18" long piece starts cutting thru, I trash it and get new ones. They last me a couple years, so it's no big expense. The rears last forever, because there's nothing sharp. I don't use the X pattern. My d-rings are splayed out a bit, and I've never had a problem with side to side movement.

[Chateau Slate 66]

I think the basket straps hold the most securely and do not allow the car to shift around, but they are cumbersome to install.

I prefer the t-hook straps that towing companies use inserted into the factory frame slots. They won't damage the outside surface or elongate the hole and are very secure. I always strap in an X pattern as well. Otherwise I have had the vehicle walk around quite a bit.

http://www.truckntow.com/images/PRODUCT/large/FT-96RTJ-S-PS.jpg

[CamarosRus]

Andy, I understand the T-hook into the factory slot.....

but if pulling from left to right,(X-crossing) how could you not put some of that metal across painted frame and mess up the finish????

[Chateau Slate 66]

Maybe it is different since I am dealing with a full frame car, but I hook them in the front frame roughly under the A-pillar and they angle down to the trailer surface (D-ring) and do not contact any other part of the car.

I do use axle straps in the rear just out of laziness, but would prefer to use wheel straps (baskets).

Disclaimer... my car is "nice" but NOT a show car. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[tknaz]

Chuck - I converted my ratchet handles several years ago with a "Direct Hook Kit" from macscustomtiedowns.com. Their part# is 421020.(Sorry I don't know how to post a link yet). I use my ratchet straps frequently and have never had a problem. Hope this helps. Tom

[CamarosRus]

Tom, I'm going to do as youve done, Hooking the Rachet assy directly to the D-ring (Trailer Floor)

I'm still asking for more input as to why the car has to move on its front suspension rather that get secured at the frame and pulled down somewhat ??????

From what others have written it seems like the lower control arm area wants to cut the straps. I do have the straps with outer sleeve around them.

Thanks,

[tknaz]

Chuck -
I've always let the car float on its own suspension; just the way I've always done it. As Bill Rose says, the lower control arms do eventually cut the axle straps; I use 2 layers of old fire hose on my axle straps for extra protection and replace when the strap is damaged. I also do not use the X pattern and have never had a problem, even after sudden lane changes a time or two on the interstate. Tom

[mockingbird812]

Tom K, welcome aboard! Glad to see you here. I last saw you 2 weeks ago at the Liberty Market in Gilbert. Tom has one my all time favorite Oldsmobiles nestled in his garage. What a beauty and what a history. Tom, you may want to check out this link (http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/204765/an/0/page/2#Post204765) on our site. There are a lot of aviation and particularly vintage WWII fans around here too. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif

[SmallHurst]

Darn Olds guys keep cluttering up the place!!! (That is a welcome aboard from another Olds guy!)

As for tying cars down, I look at how the haulers carrying the cars and trucks out of the assembly plant do it. 98% attach to the frame and pull straight down. Some of the new transport are using the wheel nets.

I myself use the t-hooks and the frame slots and cross the straps. If you want the t-hooks to keep from marring the frame, dip them in plasti-coat or use some old strap material to minimize the contact.

Growing up on the farm, you learn that you strap it tight so that nothing moves. I know that some let the suspension move, but I look at that as energy that is uncontrolled when you go over some bad bumps (and may have to do emergency braking on top of that). I have never had an issue with the car going anywhere when locked down tight!! http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/scholar.gif

[wheelhop]

If you attach straps to the frame and tighten, any bump you go over with your trailer is going to cause the suspension to still compress which will in turn loosen your straps as you are driving down the road. I always attach the straps to the lower control arms in front and the axle at the rear.

[CamarosRus]

Not wanting to argue, just trying to learn.........

If you rachet strap the front frame, pull down moderately, those rachet straps are not going to loosen.

I can understand how many guys let the suspension work, let the car float having just secured the lower control arms or baskets straps over tires.

Just asking why this is better.....????

[Chevy454]

FWIW, I prefer our cars sinched down to eliminate suspension travel...otherwise, it's comparable to putting miles on the car without the wheels turning...and on our race stuff (Red Alert & Y-Camaro) where ride/suspension geometry is crucial and set where we need it, the less miles the better.

[BARN FIND]

Running with the car cinched down is putting "miles on the suspension" but all in compression so eventually the car takes a set lower, sorta the same idea as not tightening down the rockers on a engine that is not going to be run for a long time.

[markjohnson]

Rob is right about cinching the car down tight to eliminate suspension travel. If you have an expensive set of shocks like a set of QA1's or maybe even a rare set of NOS factory ones, it can wear them out after many trailered miles. This can even be proven by feeling your shocks with your bare hand immediately after stopping at a gas station or something. They will be warm or even hot to the touch meaning they are going through many cycles of rebound & compression. I picked up on this while trailering my Drag Radial shootout car many miles a few years ago. While I would cinch down the frame in the front, I still used axle straps (crossed!) in the rear but with the knob-adjustable QA1's, I would turn them to their stiffest setting for trailering and then soften them back up for the track.

[tknaz]

Hey, Sam - sorry I'm not the guy you're talking about(I'm in Tucson) but thanks for the welcome anyway. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif

[mockingbird812]

Your most welcome http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif !! So, you're saying there is more than one Tom Kelley in AZ?!! http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hmmm.gif http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[Canuck]

I have done some long hauling with my cars,4 major trips totaling 18,000 miles. I have always used the method of control arm for the front end and axel loops crossed over at the rear. Additionally I use two straps to hold the frame at the rear.
All of this works well and created minimal movement.

Paul

[RamAirDave]

Sometimes we use the hole in the frame, most times around the LCA mounts. Depends on the car and the angle to the D-rings in the floor.

Axle straps around the rear axle, then ratchet strap from there to the D-ring. Same in the front. Axle strap around the LCA, ratchet strap to the floor. Never had one cut through, or show any signs of doing so.

We wrap all axle straps with microfiber towels to avoid any paint marring. If we hook to the hole in the frame, the hook gets wrapped with one.

Crank all the straps down as tight as you can. Then after you leave the shop/house, fill up, grab a drink or whatever, get a few miles for everthing to shift and settle, crank 'em down again. We usually pull over on the entry ramp, then each time we stop for something. They stay tight, but doesn't hurt to check.

The X tie-down is fine, we usually only do it when we're hauling one that's on a body cart since casters are more likely to move side to side.

[BARN FIND]

[ QUOTE ]
Rob is right about cinching the car down tight to eliminate suspension travel. If you have an expensive set of shocks like a set of QA1's or maybe even a rare set of NOS factory ones, it can wear them out after many trailered miles. This can even be proven by feeling your shocks with your bare hand immediately after stopping at a gas station or something. They will be warm or even hot to the touch meaning they are going through many cycles of rebound & compression. I picked up on this while trailering my Drag Radial shootout car many miles a few years ago. While I would cinch down the frame in the front, I still used axle straps (crossed!) in the rear but with the knob-adjustable QA1's, I would turn them to their stiffest setting for trailering and then soften them back up for the track.

[/ QUOTE ]

So, you are saying that your 3500ish pound car riding on/in your 3000-8000 pound empty weigh "suspended and damped" trailer would get the cars shocks hot and wear them out?

[markjohnson]

Well Ray, since I have to explain myself to you, I'll type this slow so you can understand. When you set-up a Drag Radial car that has close to 900 HP, and trying to put that down to the ground on a 275-60 tire that has less than 9 inches of tread contact, the suspension is a VERY important part of it. A loose, free-working front suspension with 6-cylinder coil springs and 90/10 shocks is a different animal than your average car. Any bump in the road and you can just feel that car back there bouncing up & down changing the tongue weight. Hot shocks? I once attended a drag race suspension seminar where it was explained that the highway trip on that trailer was the equivalent of THOUSANDS of 1/4 mile passes. There's no need to cycle that suspension and expensive race shocks that much. A trick I learned from some NHRA Stock Eliminator buddies was to stick a 6-inch block of wood under the front crossmember under the motor and then cinch down the frame of the car againt the wooden block. This, in essence, makes the car & trailer act as a unit. As far as the rear, just turning the shock dial to the stiffest setting for the trailer ride worked fine. Still awake?

[tknaz]

Sam - yep, that's what I'm saying. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[ORIGLS6]

I do the double & triple check too Dave. And for anyone who thinks a ride in an enclosed trailer is cushy, .............try it some time yourself! We moved some furniture a couple of years ago and I rode in the trailer to "watch" the fridge and china cabinet. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif

And a little spin on the topic; don't EVER load a front engine vehicle (Corvairs and VWs excluded) in/on a trailer backwards!

[CamarosRus]

Elsewhere on this site is new thread about a truck/trailer towing accident where the ball broke etc etc.

I'm interested in reading opinions on towing my open/flat bed car trailer when NOT using the load equalizing hitch.

(I think my 2 5/16" Load Equalizing set up is rated at 10,000lb)

I currently have a 3" dropped/offset ballmount with 5000lb rated ball mount and 2" 5000lb ball..........towing a loaded open trailer that weighs in excess of 5000lb.

What should I have for equip ?????

(NOTE: The above is NOT talking about my enclosed
trailer using 2 5/16" ball and gear)

Thanks

[Canuck]

Chuck and others.
I always use my equalizer bars whether the trailer is loaded or not. I just sinch them up a little lighter. My trailer weighs about 3300 pounds empty so the more contact point with the truck the better. Lat yaer I changed the GM installed hitch with a Putnam 16,000 pound hitch and thsi past summer I started using a Hensley Arrow on my 28 Ft Airstream.
I have not done a long haul in with my car trailer in the past 8 months but will be using the Hensley on that trailer in the future.

Paul

[CamarosRus]

Still looking for expert advice, experienced opinions on towing my open trailer with non equalizing ball mount/hitch.

Say my trailer weighs 1500lb and I have a 3500+ lb car on it. I'm now at or over the 5000# Weight limit placed upon many of the 2" receiver 2"(whatever) dropped ball mount and ball.

In looking at Etrailer.com (for example) I have noticed there are some 6000# Ball Mounts and 2" Balls with 1 1/4" Shanks rather than 1".

I've also seen forged ball mounts rated at 10,000GVW.....

These above questions are NOT for the 2 5/16" Balls and Load Equal Hitches, but your lighter duty typical boat trailer and flat bed trailer rigs

Please educate us wanting to learn, before we make a costly mistake.......

Thanks

[70 copo]

[ QUOTE ]
Elsewhere on this site is new thread about a truck/trailer towing accident where the ball broke etc etc.

I'm interested in reading opinions on towing my open/flat bed car trailer when NOT using the load equalizing hitch.

(I think my 2 5/16" Load Equalizing set up is rated at 10,000lb)

I currently have a 3" dropped/offset ballmount with 5000lb rated ball mount and 2" 5000lb ball..........towing a loaded open trailer that weighs in excess of 5000lb.

What should I have for equip ?????

(NOTE: The above is NOT talking about my enclosed
trailer using 2 5/16" ball and gear)

Thanks

[/ QUOTE ]


Chuck,

Good rule of thumb is to buy USA made quality hitches, balls, and receivers. All solid construction and be sure to buy over rated for the load you are going to carry.

Make sure to tack weld the ball nut on the bottom, because
if that nut ever works loose you are in for big trouble.

[Donnie]

also ANY open trailer hauling a car on it should have a 2 5/16" ball and coupler.

[MultiMopars]

[ QUOTE ]
also ANY open trailer hauling a car on it should have a 2 5/16" ball and coupler.

[/ QUOTE ]

Not true.

The size of the coupler is determined by the manufacturer and done so according to the industry towing standards. Yes, you could special order or change yourself a 2 5/16 coupler on these smaller trailers. However 2 5/16 ball/couplers are typically reserved for the 10,000 lb. equalizer hitch set ups.

Tow responsibly with no more than what the towing vehicle is rated for, use electric brakes and controller where required and balance the load on the trailer for the correct tongue weight on the towing vehicle.

Most importantly SLOW DOWN. Regardless of your towing vehicle it will handle and brake differently then it does without towing a trailer.

[Donnie]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
also ANY open trailer hauling a car on it should have a 2 5/16" ball and coupler.

[/ QUOTE ]

Not true.

The size of the coupler is determined by the manufacturer and done so according to the industry towing standards. Yes, you could special order or change yourself a 2 5/16 coupler on these smaller trailers. However 2 5/16 ball/couplers are typically reserved for the 10,000 lb. equalizer hitch set ups.

Tow responsibly with no more than what the towing vehicle is rated for, use electric brakes and controller where required and balance the load on the trailer for the correct tongue weight on the towing vehicle.

Most importantly SLOW DOWN. Regardless of your towing vehicle it will handle and brake differently then it does without towing a trailer.

[/ QUOTE ]

must be a west coast thing every open "car" trailer that ive ever used was 2 5/16"

[Smokey]

My Featherlite open is a 2 inch.

[CamarosRus]

I will be installing 12 Volt Chinese mfg winch onto the floor of my Pace American enclosed trailer.

Asking to SEE pics and/or READ clear concise suggestions as to how to buy, mount and wire battery set-up.

My 20' trailer has minimal room in front of car. I'd like to keep this winch/battery mount as clean as possible, so as to leave max room available for other "stuff".

Another member said he had only placed steel plate on lower side of plywood floor (nothing welded to trailer frame) and bolted winch mounting brkt on top side ???????

My trailer does have 110 interior lighting & wall plug. Would one of those small float chargers be sufficient to maintain winch battery. No matter guess I could use any
battery charger to maintain winch battery.

Thanks for your help.........

[Musclecarkid]

Chuck

I pull an 18ft open trailer with my 97 Z71 Xcab 4x4. Full diamond plate with beaver tail, 4 wheel electric brakes. Mfg'd by JB Enterprises in Elkhart Ind. Weighs about 1800 lbs empty. I always use the load equalizer 2 5/16 hitch setup with the bars empty or loaded. Much firmer ride with the bars hooked up. I tow Chevelles, Novas, Corvettes Camaros etc 3000-4000lbs all the time. Never an issue. Very safe and you don't even know the trailer is back there till you look in the mirrors. Can tow at 70 mph + been to 90mph at times empty. Not even a wiggle. Braking with the trailer on the back stops better than the truck by itself.

[njsteve]

Anyone know of a good internet site for purchasing the Greenball Towmaster trailer tires? I need the 225/75R15s and neither Tirerack or Treaddepot carry that line of tires.

[Canuck]

For all the unsung heros of our hobby our tow vehicles and parts haulers,I Though I would move this tread up with an update on my GMC Yukon. I have owned it 10 years this month and it just turned 100,000 miles or 160,000 in KM.

I have no plans to replace it as it has the unique Quadrasteer that was only available from 2002-2005.The truck has been amazing as over 20% of its mileage has been towing a trailer, either the Airstream or a 24 foot Wells Cargo.

Longest trip with Car trailer, Vancouver to Detroit 2008 .5600 mile round trip
Longest Trip with Airstream. Vancouver to Napa 2011 2500 mile round trip.

It has crossed the Rockies 10 times towing.

Repair wise I would rate it at average for the truck body and above average for the drive train. Most repairs have been minor for a vehicle getting severe tow usage.
So far it has no accidents and the only paint repair being the flairs.
Second set of Michelin 10 ply tires.
3 rd brake job (used Jobber parts on the second brake job and hatted the results)
On third windshied
Third Bug/rock deflector
Replaced water pump
Replaced AC comp.
Both of these were more preventative rather than unit failure due to other monor repairs.
One major tune up at 75,000 miles
One rear end bearing failed just ouside of warranty, being a quadrasteer this was an expensive repair.
Things that failed that were minor annoyances:
Passanger side power window.
Both manifolds broke off bolts due to thermal expansion.
Starting motor.
Dash cluster
Rear seat track broke.
Drivers seat upholstery

Engine and trans perform like new with no consumption in between 5000 mile Oil changes using Mobil 1 since new.

Not sure when I can expect things like rad replacement of trans trouble on the 480LE.

I expect I will be giving a 20 year report in 2023.

If there is one thing I could change, if GM offered this in a DuraMax.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll49/paulolds/Conseula/211.jpg (http://s285.photobucket.com/user/paulolds/media/Conseula/211.jpg.html)

Paul

[PxTx]

Paul, those are great. I just went over 200k with my 8.1/Allison. I helped a good friend find what I consider the "Unicorn" of Chevy trucks. His is a 2004 2500 Crew Cab with Quadrasteer. Seems like chevy never paired anything bigger than a 6.0 motor, and I don't think the Allison was put behind a 6.0 motor till after 2007. Even so, that crew with qsteer is sweet! Only ever seen 2 others in ally travels. The Denali trucks seem to be the most popular application, but always an extended cab.

I've seen a few subs, nut never driven one. With the shorter wheel base than a crew truck, that think must be awesome to back trailers up. No wonder why they used your truck to do reverse figure 8's in that commercial.

Don't want to jinx you, but how have your brake lines held up?

[Canuck]

Options were limited once you selected Quadasteer, no sunroof, due to roof top lighting, no Barn door option and yes top engine was the 6.0. The Suburbans and Yukons were limited to four colors, Silver, White Green and a Beige /Brown none of them black yet the Danali could be had in black. The extra width of The rear axle gives the vehicle great stability at speed, hence the wider flairs and clearance lights.
A few off road shops around the US have done conversions putting the Duramax in Suburbans

[ss427copo]

Now that I'm looking for another trailer, I now wish I never sold my race car setup from 10 years ago.. STUPID ME!

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r59/nhra1060sc/image-10_zps3e6e1709.jpg (http://s141.photobucket.com/user/nhra1060sc/media/image-10_zps3e6e1709.jpg.html)

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r59/nhra1060sc/tn_TruckDriveway.jpg (http://s141.photobucket.com/user/nhra1060sc/media/tn_TruckDriveway.jpg.html)

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r59/nhra1060sc/wheelsupetown.jpg (http://s141.photobucket.com/user/nhra1060sc/media/wheelsupetown.jpg.html)

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r59/nhra1060sc/trailer.jpg (http://s141.photobucket.com/user/nhra1060sc/media/trailer.jpg.html)

[Canuck]

Just bough a new set of wheels and tires for my Wells Cargo from Trailer Tires.com. They came mounted but not balanced. Do you guys balance your trailer tires or is there no need.

Paul

[njsteve]

Balance them. Your car inside the trailer will thank you.

[Canuck]

Good point. Dont know why vendor did not offer balancing.

[budnate]

Class pay Attention subject change.......... <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/scholar.gif

Lets talk Duramax Trucks......

what tuners do you like,

what about the EGR delete kits?

what ex system have you guys been running, most guys claim 4&quot; kits on the net...... my old Cummins ran better with a &quot;3.5 and only one muffler I thought and had a nice mellow tone to it

thinking the same for the Chev? I want it to breath but don't need the obnoxious drone I hear on big ex trucks driving around me.

Whats the scoop fella's???????


I picked up an early '07 LBZ motor'd truck and need to turn it up a tad.


Peace, B.

[Jefferson]

She wasn't much of a tow rig, but it was my daily for a few summers. Still kicking myself for selling it. I painted it Ferrari monza tri-coat red (my first ever complete tri-coat), 10.5:1 4 banger neighbor waker, all ported polished and custom cam. 4.56 gears, spool, all the sway bar and suspension goodies. She was the best looking mini truck in the area.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/Jefferso_n/20130520_184134_zps0f2794aa.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Jefferso_n/media/20130520_184134_zps0f2794aa.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/Jefferso_n/20130520_184154_zpsfe1063ba.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Jefferso_n/media/20130520_184154_zpsfe1063ba.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/Jefferso_n/20130520_184320_zps884bcdac.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Jefferso_n/media/20130520_184320_zps884bcdac.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/Jefferso_n/20130520_183807_zps75847306.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Jefferso_n/media/20130520_183807_zps75847306.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/Jefferso_n/20130520_184122_zps8f9e51fe.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Jefferso_n/media/20130520_184122_zps8f9e51fe.jpg.html)

[Jefferson]

And what stupid me did with the money from little red. Bought BIG RED. Cool truck ill admit, it was all west coast original, hopped up SBC and a 4 speed stick. Slider window, hooker headers and true 3'' straight pipes. Sounded like hell was raising up from the dead. Haha

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/Jefferso_n/1025421_10151721367999553_28057217_o_zpsf5330e57.j pg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Jefferso_n/media/1025421_10151721367999553_28057217_o_zpsf5330e57.j pg.html)



Then what the NEW owner did a few days after i sold it. Hydro locked that bad ass SBC and basically f*cked the old girl right up. A sad sight.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/Jefferso_n/564051_10151949739384553_1632544694_n_zpsb7e64bec. jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Jefferso_n/media/564051_10151949739384553_1632544694_n_zpsb7e64bec. jpg.html)

[Pulnaway]

Jefferson, My boys 11 and 14 read for forum and spell very well. Please keep it PG.

[Canuck]

5 year update. Took delivery of my 2003 Yukon XL 15 year s ago today. It just turned 220,000 Km (thats 135,000 miles)and runs like new. Still has original exhaust and engine and trans are working well. At this stage I hope to get to 30 years ownership and double the mileage.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll49/paulolds/truck1_zpsiscd40vc.jpg (http://s285.photobucket.com/user/paulolds/media/truck1_zpsiscd40vc.jpg.html)
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll49/paulolds/5DD36ECD-09C7-493A-8A9E-04B0083F693B_zpswd7ndthm.jpeg (http://s285.photobucket.com/user/paulolds/media/5DD36ECD-09C7-493A-8A9E-04B0083F693B_zpswd7ndthm.jpeg.html)

This photo was taken this morning.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll49/paulolds/B1661FC8-EC8D-422C-9CF7-3E9172B0128B_zpsftedvwek.jpeg (http://s285.photobucket.com/user/paulolds/media/B1661FC8-EC8D-422C-9CF7-3E9172B0128B_zpsftedvwek.jpeg.html)

Most notable trip in the past year was a 4 and 1/2 day hot lap from Vancouver to Phoenix on the May long weekend, 2017 to pick up a load of sheet metal. 3000 miles in 4.5 days. Day 2 was 900 miles from LeGrande Oregon to Kingman AZ, average speed 73 MPH.came back with a uhaul full of parts.
Bugs to prove it
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll49/paulolds/5BEDB75D-13CC-4947-BF3B-3D75FD4BA101_zpsqymnvypc.jpeg (http://s285.photobucket.com/user/paulolds/media/5BEDB75D-13CC-4947-BF3B-3D75FD4BA101_zpsqymnvypc.jpeg.html)

Of the 220,000 KM, 67,000 have been towing a trailer.

[Canuck]

Here are some photos of my 24 ft Wells Cargo, purchased in 2005. I took it out of storage recently and notice more stains from the screws holding the panels in place.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll49/paulolds/4D5AAA77-484F-45CD-9CBC-6CF08640A286_zpsjiaf4w5q.jpeg (http://s285.photobucket.com/user/paulolds/media/4D5AAA77-484F-45CD-9CBC-6CF08640A286_zpsjiaf4w5q.jpeg.html)

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll49/paulolds/1977DDBB-6DA4-4D9B-9B69-2FC557F76CE4_zpsbhqoxo0i.jpeg (http://s285.photobucket.com/user/paulolds/media/1977DDBB-6DA4-4D9B-9B69-2FC557F76CE4_zpsbhqoxo0i.jpeg.html)

Decided to replace them with stainless steel. Bought 400 from local fastener supplier only to make two trips back as total neared 800 screws.

I used 2 Rigid Impact Drills, one to remove and another to install after cleanup was done.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll49/paulolds/764C5F56-9415-4350-86BD-5D267B666CC0_zpsjgpfj8te.jpeg (http://s285.photobucket.com/user/paulolds/media/764C5F56-9415-4350-86BD-5D267B666CC0_zpsjgpfj8te.jpeg.html)
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll49/paulolds/CE64EAAB-5CE9-4BF1-BE35-87D28D77B971_zpshjujrpcy.jpeg (http://s285.photobucket.com/user/paulolds/media/CE64EAAB-5CE9-4BF1-BE35-87D28D77B971_zpshjujrpcy.jpeg.html)

End result, a nice clean trailer, no more rust stains.

[Canuck]

Now that I am retired, a whole bunch of to do items come up that have been on my list for some time. Freshening up the inside of my 2003 Wells Cargo trailer was one of them.
Paint Walls.
Paint Floor
Add cabinets
Add floor tread.

The Old worn look

https://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll49/paulolds/AD334E85-41A1-4410-A171-4C2B22718074_zpsiewnjzwq.jpeg (https://s285.photobucket.com/user/paulolds/media/AD334E85-41A1-4410-A171-4C2B22718074_zpsiewnjzwq.jpeg.html)

Fresh coat of Marine White, Semi gloss.

https://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll49/paulolds/B8F7E1CF-3105-4437-A8FB-38CE1932AC74_zpswmvhnkom.jpeg (http://s285.photobucket.com/user/paulolds/media/B8F7E1CF-3105-4437-A8FB-38CE1932AC74_zpswmvhnkom.jpeg.html)

After application of Floor paint.

https://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll49/paulolds/46282834-F4D3-40D5-A7A6-3B5BAAE855C1_zpszneearst.jpeg (http://s285.photobucket.com/user/paulolds/media/46282834-F4D3-40D5-A7A6-3B5BAAE855C1_zpszneearst.jpeg.html)

Building a base and riser/filler to bring cabinets to 36 inches.

https://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll49/paulolds/CA0B6E4C-A627-4793-8506-59AFBDC67EBE_zpsctku2he8.jpeg (http://s285.photobucket.com/user/paulolds/media/CA0B6E4C-A627-4793-8506-59AFBDC67EBE_zpsctku2he8.jpeg.html)


Cabinets in with 18 X96 stainless steel top.

https://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll49/paulolds/F0ADEFFE-AFFB-43D5-A493-55A3F4DAFC34_zpsvrgtwqrc.jpeg (http://s285.photobucket.com/user/paulolds/media/F0ADEFFE-AFFB-43D5-A493-55A3F4DAFC34_zpsvrgtwqrc.jpeg.html)

https://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll49/paulolds/73195813-A9CE-4894-BA03-4E96F5D7351E_zpsiqwbdet5.jpeg (http://s285.photobucket.com/user/paulolds/media/73195813-A9CE-4894-BA03-4E96F5D7351E_zpsiqwbdet5.jpeg.html)

16 inch wide diamond plate for tire path.

https://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll49/paulolds/B83F94AD-0175-4ADF-BE8F-C2616E91F387_zpsmxwk8xxr.jpeg (http://s285.photobucket.com/user/paulolds/media/B83F94AD-0175-4ADF-BE8F-C2616E91F387_zpsmxwk8xxr.jpeg.html)

Next up is some LED lighting and signage. Maybe an order to Pitpal.

[m22mike]

Nice :biggthumpup:

[MosportGreen66]

Wow great result... Dave and I have identical plans for our Wells Auto Wagon. It’s a 1998 we bought with about 1500 miles on it a handful of years ago. Bought it from a retired NCRS guy who showed his solid axel Vette for a few years and then just parked the trailer. We did wheels and tires, brakes, seals, backing plates, bearings and added a healthy winch, deep cycle battery that gets charged from a switch off the new wiring harness (with hidden kill for safety), and tied it up to the electric tongue. We capped off phase 1 with locking cabinets and new LED lights inside and out, a new brake away battery and welded mounting bars for the safety chains.

The next step is hit the cosmetics which we can’t seem to find any time for... goal is to paint the floor, add diamond plate on the floor, and if we can muster the energy, replace the rivets on the exterior. How long did it take? Looking for any insights and tech tips!

Great work!

Dan

[Canuck]

Dan,
The exterior screws took a few days(may 2008). The most recent work was spread out over two weeks. I had the cabinets for 3 years, got them from a guy who rents in our shop. They were a perfect application for the trailer, small and with a lock bar to keep the drawers closed.
Going to source LED lighting from an RV dealer.
Already had the winch from day one and added the electric tongue jack 5 years ago.
Post photos of your progress.