View Full Version : z28 1969 pushrods, what to use?
subyman99
02-03-2009, 09:56 PM
i have a 69 z28 survivor, and the engine is all gm parts, including lifters and cam. What pushrods should i use? i see the "blue-tip" pushrods on ebay but i was wondering if there are any aftermarkets that are good or the same. thanks guys
Matt
Jerry@CHP
02-04-2009, 08:34 PM
We use a very simliar push rod to the blue tip GM's and they are actually stronger than the GM push rods. $120 a set plus shipping. Have a darker heat treated look. Have used them in dozens of 302s that I've built over the years.
Jerry
beater68427
02-04-2009, 09:05 PM
[ QUOTE ]
i have a 69 z28 survivor, and the engine is all gm parts, including lifters and cam. What pushrods should i use? i see the "blue-tip" pushrods on ebay but i was wondering if there are any aftermarkets that are good or the same. thanks guys
Matt
[/ QUOTE ]
Call Compitition Products in Oshkosh WI 800-233-0199 I would use part number #1400 4130 material .065 wall 1pc swedge end much stronger than factory price is 52.95 you could go to a .080 wall but not needed in your application, hope this can help.
Jerry@CHP
02-06-2009, 07:10 AM
We have had bad luck with the swedged tip and ball tip push rods in 302 engines. On at least two dyno tests, they have bent or broke over 6000 rpm.
I have had great success with Comp Cams push rods. They cost more but are one piece seamless and made in the USA. .065" wall and good over 8000 rpm. This is what I use in my Stock Eliminator engines and none have ever failed. Many of the less expensive push rods are made in Taiwan. Just some food for thought.
Jerry
beater68427
02-06-2009, 04:46 PM
[ QUOTE ]
We have had bad luck with the swedged tip and ball tip push rods in 302 engines. On at least two dyno tests, they have bent or broke over 6000 rpm.
I have had great success with Comp Cams push rods. They cost more but are one piece seamless and made in the USA. .065" wall and good over 8000 rpm. This is what I use in my Stock Eliminator engines and none have ever failed. Many of the less expensive push rods are made in Taiwan. Just some food for thought.
Jerry
[/ QUOTE ]
The number I gave him was a howards not import they sound like the same pushrod, I was mistaken when I said swedge tip they are 5/16 and no reason to be swedge, Im use to running 3/8 and they have to be swedge, I agree I would not ever run a ball end type pushrod on anything. As far as Howards products I have never had any problems and have purchased Hundreads of sets without failure, now I do not specialize in 302's probably never will, I build engines in a different form than most use here.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd132/1972cutlass/alotofwork.jpg
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd132/1972cutlass/dynofirstM1.jpg
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd132/1972cutlass/imustbehungry.jpg
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd132/1972cutlass/614made1720on18psi.jpg
69SSZL1
02-06-2009, 06:20 PM
Why not use GM pushrods to keep your GM car all GM? GM performance parts has very good pushrods for your Z.
Jerry@CHP
02-06-2009, 06:44 PM
The new GM push rods will not hold up if you drive the car and rev it up to 6000-7000 rpm. Especially a 302. If it's a trailer queen, then they're fine.
The hardened blue tips have been long gone.
Jerry
Xplantdad
02-06-2009, 06:51 PM
You'd have to think that technology has improved in the past 30 years... http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Jerry@CHP
02-06-2009, 08:16 PM
Bruce,
In Stock Eliminator, the best rocker arms to use are still the original "O" stamped rockers. All of the heat treated Manleys, Cranes, etc eventually break in the 7000-8000 rpm range. They do not hold up like the originals. I can't figure that one out either.
Jerry
Xplantdad
02-07-2009, 12:42 AM
See...what the heck do I know? http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hmmm.gif http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
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