NEED TO CLEAN MY ALUMINIUM INTAKE

[BJCHEV396]

HI GUYS,I HAVE A 1970 NOVA L78.THE ALUMINUM INTAKE HAS A YELLOW TINGE.I'M LOOKING FOR A CLEANER TO SPIFF IT UP.ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE APPRECIATED.IF NOT I'LL HAVE TO REMOVE AND BEAD BLAST IT.THANKS,BILL. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

[turbojet427]

I was once told to try a small detail stainless steel wire brush. Don't know if it works or not.

[BJCHEV396]

I'VE THOUGHT OF THAT BUT AM WORRIED ABOUT LEAVING MARKS.ANYONE OUT THERE EVER USED A WIRE BRUSH WITH POSITIVE RESULTS?THANKS,BILL.

[Mr. Chevy]

Eagle 1 makes a real potent aluminum etching cleaner. You spary it on and let it sit for a while then hose it off. Should clean the intake up.. Not something you want to use on your vehicle's aluminum wheels however. The stuff is very strong...

If this does not work you may want to consider painting the intake. Alumiblast paint works excellent on the intakes and holds up very well after time...

Rich

[Jerry@CHP]

We have a reskinning-tumbling process. Have done thousands of intakes, valve covers, trans parts, blocks, heads, etc. A wopping $120 plus shipping. Meets NCRS standards too.

Here's a link,

http://www.z28camaro.com/restosvcs.html#AIM

Jerry

[beater68427]

[ QUOTE ]
We have a reskinning-tumbling process. Have done thousands of intakes, valve covers, trans parts, blocks, heads, etc. A wopping $120 plus shipping. Meets NCRS standards too.

Here's a link,

http://www.z28camaro.com/restosvcs.html#AIM

Jerry

[/ QUOTE ]

Thats some very nice work http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggthumpup.gif

[WILMASBOYL78]

Bill, is that yellow "tinge" from leaking fuel..??? I have seen lots of aluminum intakes with fuel stains, but that looks like the whole manifold is tinted. For spot cleaning, I use a little spray carb cleaner or brakeleen...spray it on rag and try wiping a small area and see how it looks. Don't spray all over the engine as these things may take paint off...I have also used a small brass brush with something milder like wax & grease remover, WD-40 or Simple Green...the brass brush won't hurt the finish...go slowly and see how it works. You may want to remove the carb, plumbimg, etc....tape off the valve covers, painted areas of the engine and kind of secton off the intake while you are cleaning...don't forget to put some tape over the carb area on the intake. Good luck...

wilma

PS....one other thing...check the bottom of the accelerator pumps and other common leak areas on the Holley...I know from experience they can leak and cause this kind of problem...if in doubt, call Eric Jackson and have him go thru it while you have it off the car...he does GREAT work.

[m22mike]

Manifold looks like it has been cleared http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif They often turn yellow like that.

Mike

[Salvatore]

Looks like a cleared intake. I see alot of street rods and street machines that people do that to. The enamel from the the clear gets hot and turns color. I am also not crazy about a bead blasted only intake. That is not the right look to me. Brass brushes are less abrasive. JMO

[Xplantdad]

[ QUOTE ]
Manifold looks like it has been cleared http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif They often turn yellow like that.

Mike

[/ QUOTE ]

Dang it...you beat me to it...

[BJCHEV396]

THANKS FOR ALL THE TIPS GUYS.I FORGOT TO MENTION THAT THE INTAKE WAS CLEAR COATED 6 YEARS AGO.I'LL GIVE THE BRASS BRUSH AND WD-40 A SHOT FIRST AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS.THANKS AGAIN,APPRECIATE THE HELP.I'M THINKING OF SELLING MY NOVA SO I'LL PROBABLY POST UP-DATED PICS IN THE SPRING.BILL.

[Chris_69_SS]

why are you yelling?

[firstgenaddict]

The clear coat has yellowed from the heat and time... never clear an aluminum intake...

[BJCHEV396]

I learned my lesson.

[The Body God]

The best solution is to take the intake off, if it's cleared, get that stripped off chemically. A blast cabinet using "Glass Bead" only NOT sand, and blast it. I have had a blast cab for many years, I always use Glass Bead because it cleans without pitting, which is what typical silica sand does. Glass bead is quite pricey, $5.00 bag of silica sand = $50.00 of Glass Bead, but it will give you that like new appearance.

[Jim Ferron]

I had a pair of COBRA valve covers on my Shelby...I bead blast the crap out of them buy every time I even TOUCHED them they would get discolored...even the moisture from the blast cab would leave a 'trail'

So I got them as perfect as i could...and I fogged Eastwood alumina blast on one of them...couldn't tell the difference except the painted one looked PERFECT.

I later found that when it got dirty..a quick mask job and squirt of just the nasty area made it look perfect at shows...

[The Body God]

Glass bead breaks down, and it can get contaminated with other things. Water in the air line can cause an issue, but if a Blast Cab has GLASS BEAD then it needs a bit of care to keep that glass bead clean or replace it, but I have used glass bead in mine for 10-15 yrs and done many aluminum intakes etc and they look great.

[Daves70SS]

I glass bead my aluminum parts and then I lightly buff them with #0000 steel wool.
Looks great and won't get dirty as fast as just plain glass beading them.
If you do get grease.oil or fuel stains on them it will clean up nicely using carb cleaner or brake clean as stated before.

[SuperNovaSS]

I agree with dave. I medium grit glass bead and 000 or 0000 steel wool pulls the shine and the oil in the wool helps rtect the aluminum. Speed bead by TP tools works well too. Way faster that glass bead. I usually finish with plastic media to tone the finish a bit.


Jason

[CamarosRus]

Almost everybody but Mr "M" misses the point. Not sure if any blasting is always neccessary, but the vibrating, tumbling action in a aluminum or ceramic media with a detergent solution, does all the work, whilst the "NEW SKIN" is being formed.

Members who live in larger metropolitan areas, may be able to find machine shops or deburring vendors who have this tumbling/vibrator.

Many parts rebuilders (any that are left in USA) have them to restore misc core parts...........

This isnt rocket science......if you make some phone calls & google some searches!!!!!!!

[Jerry@CHP]

The media used in the tumbler takes time to figure out. Dozens of different cermaic media to pick from. Also the cycle time on how long its tumbled is important or your part will come out looking like chrome. And if not carefull, you can remove the numbers and logos.

Took me about 3-4 months to break the code on doing them correctly. What's nice when the parts are done, is they won't look dirty again, dust and dirt don't stick to parts as it would when glass beading and you just wipe it down with a paper towel and brake clean. Low maintanance.

Jerry

[BJCHEV396]

Again thanks for all the input.That's what makes this site so good and informative.And if you 've noticed I have my Caps Lock off.Some members got their underwear in a knot over it.

[RamAirDave]

[ QUOTE ]
I glass bead my aluminum parts and then I lightly buff them with #0000 steel wool.
Looks great and won't get dirty as fast as just plain glass beading them.
If you do get grease.oil or fuel stains on them it will clean up nicely using carb cleaner or brake clean as stated before.

[/ QUOTE ]

That's been my experience as well. Low psi bead blast (30-35 siphon, which wont even harm your hand) , followed with a fine steel wool. Looks really good, takes maybe an hour.

Ive read many times on the various boards that bead blasting an intake will make one more susceptible to staining. Maybe it's in incorrect application (media, too much psi, I don't know?), because all of the ones I've done clean up very easily. And not just cleaning up fresh leaks/spills, but even after some time and after being heat-cycled a few times, a quick wipe with wax/grease/silicone remover cleans it right up.

Not saying it'll look exactly like tumbled/skinned, but for those "how to" guys, you can get pretty good results:

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b217/RamAirDave/RestoReference/IntakeBA2.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b217/RamAirDave/RestoReference/100_3456.jpg

[BJCHEV396]

Hey Dave,thanks for taking the time posting the info and great pics.I appreciate it.Bill. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/3gears.gif

[m22mike]

Dave http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggthumpup.gif

Thanks for that post. I have done a few just like this,does not harm the original texture much, and for whatever reason I use WD 40 with the 0000 wool rubdown. Then a real hot bath in soap and water and I am done. Later clean up with a short china bristle brush and WD 40 and alot of this.... http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/3gears.gif http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/3gears.gif
I think this process would stand up to any in a blind test.

Mike

[BJCHEV396]

Thanks a bunch Mike!

[CamarosRus]

I'm thinking about buying a (used) commercial vibratory tumbler, like Mr. McNeish uses to attain the "look" many people think is so great.

Curious if other restorers at this site own their own large machines.

If after I show some results, might I be able to clean, tumble, restore misc alum manifolds, valve covers and cases for others at a "reasonable" price ????

I'm not a fan of glass beading aluminum and calling that restored. IMHO its not the correct "new look"

[Salvatore]

NOT a fan of glass beading intakes either. Real tough to find one in its natural state anymore.

[SSRSBOB]

Charlie Braxton had one for sale in Hemmings, $4500.00 OBO

Bob

[VintageMusclecar]

Chuck;

If you're serious about getting a tumbler, give me a call, I have a very good resource.

Eric

[RamAirDave]

Talked to a guy locally a couple weeks ago about tumbling large parts. Not really interested in buying one at this time, but I would have access to it whenever.

Would definitely like to do some experimenting if nothing else.

[PaulK]

Charlie Braxton had one for sale in Hemmings, $4500.00 OBO
Bob

UH-HUH SURE

[CamarosRus]

Ram Air Dave, I had/have opportunity to buy a USED 6.5 sq ft (DeBuring,Vibrator) here in Seattle for $1500 or less.

My research shows that the neccessary 450# of media is pretty spendy (as much or more than machine). I dont have room to set this up, and really dont have time to start a "business" doing other people's stuff..........

I'll be VERY interested to read what specific kind of media, your local guy is using, as there are many types.

I;m thinking that aluminum media might be better on aluminum castings, but not really sure. Most shops use cermaic media. My brief experience showed it didnt very long(parts time in the machine) to achieve good results. Machine I used (years ago) had a water based detergent, but some operators use misc solvents.

BTW, Very sure this is what J.M. uses in part to "reskin" parts.........

Please let us know what you experience and your estimated charges, IF you decide to run customer parts ???