Just got the 10-10 '69 Z car!

[mark oliver]

Hey guys,

Not sure why the other thread was deleted regarding the car I bought from Samlbinj, but I'd like your opinions on this. I had all of the fluids changed, had the plugs changed, and my mechanic actually had NOS AC Delco plugs & wires. When we had the car on the rack, we noticed some light surface rust on the frame and Jerry M. noted this in his evaluation. My question is, if I go ahead and have the undercarriage pressure washed and undercoated, will it affect the originality of the car? JM confirmed that all the floor pans are solid. I would simply like to stop the rust issue before it actually becomes an issue. Thanks!

[SuperNovaSS]

I don't think undercoating will stop the rust, it will just hide it. If it is surface rust I would leave it as is or use some of the safest rust remover on it.


Jason

[Salvatore]

Clean it real good and use some Bo-shield or WD-40 and spray and wipe to death. The surface rust on the frame can be cleaned up and carefully painted with some newspaper and masking tape. I like Seymour Semi-gloss (16-838)for those areas. One of the best parts about owning a musclcar is doing the clean-up and detail work. Its rewarding! http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggthumpup.gif P.S. don't get any WD or Bo-shield on surfaces you want to paint. To tough to clean off.

[njsteve]

Use this stuff. It works great. Just set up a kiddy pool and a sump pump underneath the car and let it spray the affected area. It's amazing.

http://www.safestrustremover.com/

Here it is in action on my car:

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/107225/page/0/fpart/13/vc/1

[72-SS-L48]

[ QUOTE ]
Use this stuff. It works great. Just set up a kiddy pool and a sump pump underneath the car and let it spray the affected area. It's amazing.

http://www.safestrustremover.com/

[/ QUOTE ]

Safest Rust Remover and Ultra One (their degreaser) are two top notch products. I highly recommend both. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif

-Dave

[csx289]

I strongly recommend Boeshield as well. Stops rust and safe for just about every surface. I use it on all of my cars - spray it in the doors, wheel lips, underbody, etc. On the chassis, even on nice, shiny restored stuff, I find spraying it on and then just a quick wipe to get the excess off keeps everything perfect. The best part is now most Sears stores sell it in the tool department, comes in a package with one can of Boeshield and one spray bottle of their rust remover which also works great.

This is the best line of defense I have found against rust etc and I have been using it for over 10 years now. Awesome for natural parts like tie rod sleeves, master cylinders, etc that most guys paint with cast blast or something.

Just my .02. Have fun cleaning the new car up - I agree with the other guys here, that is the best part!!

Colin

[RamAirDave]

Boeshield and SRR are nice products. Neither are perfect of course (my tests have been in extremely harsh conditions), but about the best available as far as I know. I would recommend NOT undercoating the car.

[x Baldwin Motion]

I use the boeshield in marine applications and nothing comes close to lasting durable protection. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggthumpup.gif

[H8tulooze]

Any pics of the car?

[gb70]

Congrats on the 10/10 Z you just got. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif

I think that the mods deleted the thread because people like me were voicing their opinions on the car when the classified section is not to be used as such. Every time someone says something it kicks the add back to the top which makes it unfair to the other sellers.

Back to your questions. I would leave it. Just clean it up as best you can. Keeping it stock is best IMO.

Good call to have it inspected by Jerry. Again nice car. Lets see some new pics of it in your garage or driveway.

[resto4u]

I use boesheild rustfree. spray on and set a few mins. then use a gray or white scuff pad to help if needed. Then use a self-etch primer(spray can) and then a semi gloss paint. Then body shop suppliers have a blending agent in a spray can. Spray your paint, then use the blending agent to melt it into the existing finish. Makes spot in finishes almost disapear. It works good for spot blending in paints on the top side also. Roger

[njsteve]

By the way, after I did the SafestRustRemover process, I sprayed the areas with Boshield to keep them from re-rusting.

[Tommy_Mathison]

[ QUOTE ]
By the way, after I did the SafestRustRemover process, I sprayed the areas with Boshield to keep them from re-rusting.

[/ QUOTE ]

Everything I spray with Boeshield ends up rusting anyway. What the heck am I doing wrong? http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

[RamAirDave]

Boeshield is a nice product, but it's neither permanent nor bulletproof.

This was an extreme test/experiment under very harsh conditions. Both parts prepped exactly the same. One was treated with Boeshield (hint: it wasn't the distributor hold down clamp)

After one month, both held up pretty well considering:

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b217/RamAirDave/RestoReference/1month1.jpg

After 5 months of rigorous winter weather:

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b217/RamAirDave/RestoReference/5month1.jpg

[csx289]

Boeshield was designed to protect planes from moisture/humidity and the corrosion between dissimilar metals (aluminum/steel etc). It isn't meant to protect against salt spray or other corrosive materials/ harsh environments. In my use I have been quite pleased that bare metal items and even painted stuff like pinch welds and door lips never get nasty or bleed rust etc. I use it extensively on unrestored survivor type cars to protect original finishes. It isn't Rusty Jones, but I suppose since Rusty is dead he isn't really Rusty Jones any more either http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Now, keep in mind that my cars rarely ever get wet, and never see a salted winter road or anything close. But living in Wisconsin the humidity is brutal and that is why I treat everything with Boeshield. Even though my building has two huge commercial dehumidifiers and was designed for car storage any time you park a car on a concrete floor (in a humid part of the country) you will have issues on bare metal and the like. For example, Boeshield does a great job on exhausts, and after they get hot I will spray them again if the car will be sitting for an extended period.

If you want the ultimate in rust protection the old British "Waxoyl" yellow snot rustproofing is tops, and Eastwood repackages it and sells it as something who's name I can't recall but it is available in gallons and aerosol spray cans. I use a similar product from Wurth that is available in tan, yellow, and now black - it is a creeping snot stuff not like an undercoating. I have a pressure pot gun with a 7' nylon tube attached that has a 360 degree nozzle on the end and can be run down Cobra frame tubes, inside GM doors and frames, etc. This is what I also use on my daily drivers, plow trucks, etc and it is simply awesome. My 2004 GMC has not a spec of rust anywhere and it sees hard winter use. My little Jeep plow truck has been sprayed with this every season and in spring the floors can be wiped clean to expose shiny paint.

It all boils down to picking the right product for the job. Boeshield is great for preserving proper finishes and the like but not for a daily driver. And, I like that it is invisible. Great for aluminum intakes, hardware, bare steel drive shafts, etc.!

Hope this helps.
Colin

[Jim Ferron]

Whatever rust you find would never amount to anything in our liftimes...I'm sure you won't be exposing the car to salt..and you tell me, you gonna drive it in the rain? Didn't think so...

One thing I've used that works really well and is easy is rust-mort.. buy a bottle and put a generic spray hed on the bottle [like off a fantastic bottle]

turns the rust black...since the frame/chassis is supposed to be black..it blends in pretty well.

Do NOT undercoat the car...

2 cents worth..

[Xplantdad]

Awesome information Colin!

[x Baldwin Motion]

[ QUOTE ]
Boeshield was designed to protect planes .......

[/ QUOTE ]

Yes, that is correct. The Boe in Boeshield is from Boeing. I think I even have a really old can with an airplane on it, but that's for the "Rotting Stuff in the Garage" thread.

[mark oliver]

[ QUOTE ]
Whatever rust you find would never amount to anything in our liftimes...I'm sure you won't be exposing the car to salt..and you tell me, you gonna drive it in the rain? Didn't think so...

One thing I've used that works really well and is easy is rust-mort.. buy a bottle and put a generic spray hed on the bottle [like off a fantastic bottle]

turns the rust black...since the frame/chassis is supposed to be black..it blends in pretty well.

Do NOT undercoat the car...

2 cents worth..

[/ QUOTE ]

Thank you , Jim and everyone. I am NOT going to undercoat the car but am going forward with the rust removal and subsequently, the boeshield!

Pics to follow. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif