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61 vert
06-25-2009, 01:50 AM
70 Deuce with original Holley. Idles a little rich and rough and will die approx. 5 seconds after putting my finger over the front bowl vent.This doesnt seem right. Power valve? Any ideas?

mockingbird812
06-25-2009, 02:25 AM
Sorry to hear of your woes. One of the gurus will chime in shortly. Can you tell us about your Deuce? Color, tranny, original dealership or better yet, a few photos.

Thanks!

61 vert
06-25-2009, 02:35 AM
Belongs to my boss. Previously owned by Earl Haubrich in MN. Forest Green with automatic. Original drive train. Sold by Colonial Chevrolet in Norfolk Virginia. Should be some on here that know of this car.
Gonna take it to Goodguys over the 4th, but needs to run a little better. Andy.

WILMASBOYL78
06-25-2009, 02:57 AM
The answer to your problems is at the top of the page....just contact Eric Jackson and he will make it all better. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif

wilma

http://www.vintagemusclecarparts.com/

VintageMusclecar
06-25-2009, 03:06 AM
What's the history on the carb--ever been rebuilt?

Has it sat for any length of time?

Any backfires through the carb?

Are the trim screws responsive?

Is the gas fresh?

Eric

Xplantdad
06-25-2009, 03:18 AM
[ QUOTE ]
Belongs to my boss. Previously owned by Earl Haubrich in MN. Forest Green with automatic. Original drive train. Sold by Colonial Chevrolet in Norfolk Virginia. Should be some on here that know of this car.
Gonna take it to Goodguys over the 4th, but needs to run a little better. Andy.

[/ QUOTE ]


Andy...

That would be this (http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/285155/an/0/page/0#285155) car!

61 vert
06-25-2009, 03:32 AM
Appears to be a rebuild. Has sat for 6 months or so but does have fresh gas.No backfires. Idle screws are somewhat responsive and run best at 3/4 turn or so. I just don't ever remember being able to kill a motor by putting my finger over the front bowl vent. Also, it ran out of gas when I was getting ready to move it into the shop, but as it did, it smoothed out and revved up slightly, so I do believe that I have a rich condition. Also runs a little better if I give it a small vacuum leak on say the vacuum advance hose or slightly pull the trans kickdown hose. All rich indicaters at idle. Front bowl level is fine but seems to be putting a lot of fuel in at high idle.For some reason the base idle was turned way up,I adjusted the idle screw down then was able to get it to run with the mixture screws,It may have been up above the idle circuit when I first started it, but I think we are okay now. Took the gas cap off and seemed to be alot of pressure there, but it went from inside at 70 to outside at 95 right before I took the cap off.

61 vert
06-25-2009, 03:44 AM
Cked again and I can screw the mixture screws all the way in and doesn't change to much. Runs smoothest when they are in all the way, or real close to in. Both float levels fine. Nice squirt out of the accel. pump. I will put it on the scope in the morning and do a cyl. cancel test and ck. the spark lines and make sure I don't have something weird going on in the ignition or valve train. Then probably pull the front bowl and clean and ck. gaskets. Any other ideas Eric?

VintageMusclecar
06-25-2009, 03:47 AM
Checked the float levels?

*edit* you posted your above reply while I was making this one

Really there's too many variables to nail down, but it could be anything from sinking floats to warped mating surfaces to mis-adjusted idle air bleed screws (not the trim screws on the metering block), the list goes on.

Give me a call tomorrow between 10:00-6:00 (eastern time) and I'll see if I can be of more help.

Eric

61 vert
06-25-2009, 03:48 AM
Cool, Will do.

WILMASBOYL78
06-25-2009, 05:14 AM
The doctor will see you now http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggthumpup.gif