Rebuilding a Hurst Shifter

[DarrenX33]

I am going to rebuild my Hurst shifter. I have read a few threads that mention how easy it is but I have not seen any step by step photos. I am certain that I can do it but I would just like as much info as possible so I don't break anything. If anyone can advise or shoot me a link to some detail photos I'd appreciate it. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggthumpup.gif

[Bill Pritchard]

Hey Darren,

Last time I was in the market (~5 yrs ago), Hurst was still doing them for next to nothing. Had to ship it to Las Vegas and it came back good as new.

[DarrenX33]

I saw that. Its 200 clams for a rebuild per the site. Not trying to cheap (I really haven't been lately http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif ) but Id kinda like the challenge of learning how to do it.. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

[Bill Pritchard]

$200? http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif Wow, prices have gone astronomical. I was thinking it was about $50. For $200, I'd be looking into doing it myself too.

[Charley Lillard]

Shauger just had Hurst do one and he loves it.

[Salvatore]

We used to take our shifters to The Shifty Doctor at Hurst Performance in Warminster, Pa. to have a free rebuild 60's-80's?? till they closed. Where did those days go? http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/headbang.gif

[m22mike]

Darren
It is not a big deal to do a Hurst shifter, and you will do as good or better than sending it out.
Try and reuse the shims and spacer inside unless they are real nasty.
This is not a bad deal from HBC because it includes the shifter lever lock and rubber pads. LQQK @ this.

http://store.heartbeatcity.net/store/product/19806/Hurst-shifter-rebuilding-kit/

http://store.heartbeatcity.net/store/product/20642/Hurst-shifter%2C-locks-%26-seals/

Clean all the grease out and rip it apart, take a bunch of photos as your disassembling it, pay attention to the stack up of shims and levers.

Here are a few shots for re:

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/m22mike/DSCF6966.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/m22mike/DSCF6969.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/m22mike/DSCF6979.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/m22mike/DSCF6978.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/m22mike/DSCF6981.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/m22mike/DSCF6959.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/m22mike/DSCF6962.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/m22mike/DSCF6961.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/m22mike/copo1146-1.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/m22mike/DSCF7248.jpg

Prep all your metal parts very well for the plater and you will get a much nicer finish. Also if the rubber washers are still on the levers they will not be harmed by the replating process.
The two long roll pins you can find at a bearing supply.
PM me if you have a ?
Go for it http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggthumpup.gif
I think that Sam guy out in AZ could even do one... http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif

[mockingbird812]

I appreciate your confidence Buckeye Boy. Nice job, and not a bad tutorial (for an aircraft mech.) http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

BTW Mike, it is on my list of things to do!! I have two to do - both super comp pluses.

When you say "prep yr metal parts well for the plater..." Would you elaborate a bit? How do you prep (media blast -what media)? What is the final finish (clear zinc)?

Thanks. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif

[m22mike]

If you blast the metal stuff and they have a little roughness to them. Go over them with a wire wheel, nylon impregnated wheel, or a med to fine scotch brigt discs.
If there is some minor pitting sand and scotch bright as required. If you end up with some scratches you could even hit them with a sisel wheel if you have a Baldor buffer.
The nicer the metal is the better the plating will come out
And yes clear zinc or clear cad. I am fortunate to be able to get cad done. Last's along time. A much better plating than zinc IMO. The one in the photo is cad.
Now git wit it Sammy http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif

[mockingbird812]

Thanks Mikey. I'm looking forward to diving in. Once again your fine work is an inspiration for this old sailor. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/flag.gif

[x Baldwin Motion]

Thanks Mike great encouragement. Is there any hope for my wobbly muncie spaghetti shifter? I have a Hurst in the car now but am hoping to refurbish the original somday, any advice?

[m22mike]

[ QUOTE ]
Thanks Mike great encouragement. Is there any hope for my wobbly muncie spaghetti shifter? I have a Hurst in the car now but am hoping to refurbish the original somday, any advice?

[/ QUOTE ]

Mount the Muncie on a nice walnut board and tell your frieds you won it at a car show http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif

[DarrenX33]

[ QUOTE ]
Thanks Mikey. I'm looking forward to diving in. Once again your fine work is an inspiration for this old sailor. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/flag.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Maybe we should set up a conference call or Netmeeting while we do this? http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Thanks for the info Mike. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif

[DarrenX33]

How do I remove the pin (or cylinder) that holds everything in place? I am starting to tear it apart and am taking step by step photos to post here..

[mockingbird812]

Good idea Darren. This will be another good reference thread that we can create a "post-it" or whatever its called. I'll betcha lots of guys would look forward to this post. Go for it Darren!! http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif

[RPOL88]

Notice in the last pic Mike has posted you can see the end of the pin. Use a large drift and angle it so as to catch the space between the housing and the pin. Don't be afraid to hit it. If you want, send me your address and I will send you a replacement pin. I make them from oil hardened tool steel with a hardness of 54 to 56 RC. No charge. Tom.

[DarrenX33]

Flat blade worked (took about 30 seconds). No hammer necessary, just a little pressure and it pushed out. The rest pulled out by hand. Thanks for the suggestions! I am going to wait to post all my photos when I am done taking it apart so they are all in order so it is easy to read. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif

[m22mike]

Darren sent me a PM and asked how to take this part of the shifter apart. I will answere here so "Buckeye Boy" Sam don't ax the same question later, pay attention Sam... http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/m22mike/DSCF6978.jpg

Drive out both roll pins ( to be replaced latter )

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/m22mike/DSCF8018.jpg

Then twist the shifter and pull out the large diameter spring.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/m22mike/DSCF8020.jpg

Pull this gizmo stright out

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/m22mike/DSCF8021.jpg



Once that flat "T" is out, again twist the lever some and pull the small spring out, and watch for the washer. This washer is on the inside.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/m22mike/DSCF8025.jpg

Good idea to take some notes and/or alot of pictures for reassembly. Pay attention to the position the shifter lever in relation to that "U" shaped spring housing... it can go together backwords...I did it... http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif even with the pictures.

Mike http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggthumpup.gif

[DarrenX33]

Hey guys, just found this very nice link. Basically what I was planning on putting together..

http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/transmission-articles/487409-servicing-hurst-shifter.html

[mockingbird812]

Darren - you're not getting off that easy http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/no.gif. That dude's Hurst SCP is going on top of a F*#d Top Loader. I need to see one with a Chevy application. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif (good link)

Mike - pay attention to what ? http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hmmm.gif

[DarrenX33]

Note to self... Putting the springs back sucks! http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/no.gif

[DarrenX33]

Ok, I got it back in. No way I could have taken pictures of it. Basically need to slip the spring into the handle hole and compress the spring and washer in a vice. Then slide it into the assembly slowly. Once it is close you can use the key and put it thru the opposite end to hold the spring in place so it doesn't go sideways on you. Then with a flat blade and a friend you can massage the spring and washer into place. Didn't take as long as I thought.

[mockingbird812]

Darren - did you try the "trick" mentioned in the link you posted? I.e., compress spring in vise and tie spring in compressed position with wire. Place spring in place and cut wire.

[DarrenX33]

I couldn't figure out a good way to do that and juggle the handle end to. Really, once I figured out a strategy it took only a few minutes. I will try and post some photos to describe when I get it all sorted..

[1967 Impala]

[ QUOTE ]
Thanks Mike great encouragement. Is there any hope for my wobbly muncie spaghetti shifter? I have a Hurst in the car now but am hoping to refurbish the original somday, any advice?

[/ QUOTE ]

You can make/buy a conversion that will leave the Hurst guts but you can bolt on the Muncie handle .

Here (http://www.chevelle.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2876)

[DarrenX33]

Seems the 70 Camaro had yet another unique item to it. This shifter I have seems to have an odd shim in it. Anyone ever see anything like this before?? Check out the tab and slot, I am wondering what it is for and if it is necessary to keep as I see the new replacement shims don't offer this one (they are intended for 69 I guess). I took this nice close up from NastyZ28.com

http://www.nastyz28.com/~copo/hurst71c.JPG

[BARN FIND]

Is that tab for the "lift and shift reverse lockout"?

[John Brown]

I have a 70 Z28 Hurst shifter I took apart that has the same tab/shims as that picture. I figured I could buy a rebuild kit for it, but the kits that are available don't have the same shape shims that are in this shifter. I'm still looking too. Maybe the 68-69 kit would work, but I'm not looking to pay $89.95 just to try it.