mini-starter and Unilite conversion... HELP!!!!

[Supergas990]

Guys, I need some real tech help here. I'm on the last leg of my restoration for my 67 Chevelle and have run into a real problem.

I've installed a Mallory Unilite conversion kit and an aftermarket mini-starter. Prior to the restoration the car started slow, but it worked. Now when I've got everything installed, the car will crank like mad, but I've cooked the white wire that runs from the + side of the coil to the firewall/fuse panel (not once, but twice now).

At first I thought it might just be the condition of the 40+ year of wire, so I replaced the whole length (coil to firewall/fuse panel), but then the whole wire started to smoke and melt.

So far I've got 5 hours into this thing and all I've accomplished is melting about 7 feet of wire.

Anyone been in this situation before? All the harnesses are factory run, so it's not like I'm recreating the wheel here.

Thanks in advance.

Blair

[RPOLS3]

I had a similar problem when I installed a one wire type points conversion kit (electronic ignition). I also have a GM "mini" starter on my Big Block Chevelle.

The problem I experienced was that the car would not start when hot, it would spin forever but did not start. I was told that since the mini starter did not have the 3rd post for the 12v connection back to the coil that when the car was hot there was not enough voltage to start.

I ran a test by running a wire directly from the battery + to the coil + and it would fire right up when hot. Your situation sounds similar but evidently you are burning up the wire. Shouldn't that white wire be a resistance wire?

This is where my 2 cents ends.

[Supergas990]

Got my issues settled and the cars runs again!!!

A big shout-out to the folks at M&H Electric for all their help. Nice guys that will help even when they don't sell anything.

Blair

[Geoff Padgett]

Hello
Iam curious, what did they tell you to do as iam getting ready to do the exact same scenario,thanks, Geoff. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/3gears.gif

[Supergas990]

Real easy.

First, completely eliminate (remove) the wire from the selonoid to the coil.

Then, (if you're using a stock coil with your electronic rconversion) replace the resistor wire with a standard 12ga wire.

The Unilite can then be wired directly to the coil and grounded to the block.

Worked like a charm.

Blair

[Geoff Padgett]

Cool thank you very much. Geoff.

[JohnZ]

That may have solved your other issue, but a stock/OEM coil isn't going to like a full 12-volt input for very long; that's why the original feed circuit from the ignition switch to the coil (+) was a resistance wire, to reduce power to the coil to 7-8 volts.