Oil Recommendation/Solid lifter 427

[ss427copo]

Well...I'm at that crossroad of using an oil with more additives for the Camaro. I've read a bit and heard of Delo(?)
Rotelle Diesel ( http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif)

Any thoughts or recommendation before I pull the plug? http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/BruceRocks.gif

Jeff x 2 1/2 http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/burnout.gif

[VintageMusclecar]

I'm using Valvoline VR1 10W30 racing oil (http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/high-performance-motor-oil/6/).

[Bill Rose]

I use Rotella 20w-50 and add Cam-Shield (ZDDP) in the flat tappet motor. If the oil doesn't have the correct high level of ZDDP, you run the risk of destroying the cam, especially if you have high spring pressure. The solid roller cam motor, I use the Rotella by itself.

[SSRSBOB]

Use Brad Penn. It's the best out there and all of the top flight machine shops use it for engine break in. It's the old Kendall. The highest content of zinc too.

Bob

[Salvatore]

I have been using the Brad Penn for about 2 years now. I like it and it is real slippery. The Valvoline is real good also. The engine guys around here like the Brad Penn even a littler better than the Joe Gibbs oil. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif If you have a roller motor don't worry about it!

[m22mike]

...real slippery... http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
I bin usein Rotella, and it is kinda slippery...but if Brad Penn ia real slippery I am going to git some of that stuff Sammy... http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif

[SSRSBOB]

Or you could get Shubeck lifters and use the Castrol at Walmart.

Bob

[MosportGreen66]

Rotella for many years here.

[TDW]

I suggest that you read this thread and the 2 below it. There has been exstensive testing on most brands of oil.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=283416

[Salvatore]

[ QUOTE ]
...real slippery... http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
I bin usein Rotella, and it is kinda slippery...but if Brad Penn ia real slippery I am going to git some of that stuff Sammy... http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif

[/ QUOTE ]I used the Rotella for years. When they removed more of the zinc I switched to Brad Penn. The Rotella is still probably good enough but the motor guys like the BP around here. Know what Mike.....it probably doesn't really matter especially in a solid lifter motor. Its more for $hits and giggles IMO. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/haha.gif

[Tommy]

My local speed shop is using and selling the Brad Penn stuff. I was using castrol and royal purple in my old junk. I'm gonna go with the Brad Penn and see what happens.


Tommy http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/burnout.gif

[camarojoe]

I use Rotella, or Delo400, but to be honest, I sorta think alot of it is internet hype...especially in an engine that's been thoroughly broken in and just needs some fresh oil. Think about it, there must be several MILLION flat tappet small blocks running out there in the world, and only a few hundred owners (maybe a few thousand) have ever even heard of any of this "no zinc" stuff with the newer oils that has spread itself from one automotive internet forum to the next... They continue to use whatever they find on the shelves and drive away without a problem. If it was a brand new motor I'd be more concerned, (but then again proper cam break-in has ALWAYS been an issue with a brand new motor.) If its something with several thousand miles on it or more I think you can use whatever you want without a problem. In fact, I know plenty of folks that do this and I've yet to hear of any of them wiping out a cam or having any issues whatsoever.

I rank it up there with "lead additive" I used to religiously pour in my gas years ago at every fill up because at the time it was claimed the valve seats would be ruined if I didn't. Then I started realizing no one else I knew was doing anything but filling their classic cars up with unleaded and driving away... So I stopped and have never had a problem using unleaded gas. Maybe I just jinxed myself and my valves will melt into the heads and my cam will flatten out 3 lobes the next time I back the car out of the garage, but I doubt it!

[Bill Rose]

For 10$ worth of ZDDP, is it really worth risking it?

[lzdick]

You're right, Bill. Just like the old Pennzoil commercial said...

<font color="red"> "You can pay me now, or pay me later". </font>

[Unreal]

Well, I lost a lobe on my flat tapper L72 within 150 miles of break-in, using modern low Zn oil -- can't prove it was the oil, but my gut tells me it was. I went back with a roller.

[TDW]

[ QUOTE ]
I suggest that you read this thread and the 2 below it. There has been exstensive testing on most brands of oil.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=283416

[/ QUOTE ]

Sigh. If you guys want the real scoop on oils, with lab testing results, READ the link I posted. No guessing, no wives tales, no marketing hype, no "my brother-in-law said", just the facts, mam.

[Unreal]

I read all about it after the fact http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

[Keith Tedford]

I run Shell Rotella and a bottle of GM's EOS in our L78 since the zinc levels were cut back. No problems so far. We've put about 33K miles on the car since buying it in 1997. Scott Wheaton has spent a fair bit of his own money to have various oils lab tested. You can't seem to rely on advertising for the story.

[Mr70]

I've been useing Valvoline VR-1 20W-50 Racing Oil in my stock L-78 for years and highly recommend it on many levels.

[Steve Shauger]

I was using castrol 20-50 along with the GM EOS which provides the correct zinc level and worked well. However for a short period EOS was nolonger available from GM until it was reintroduced under another part#. Anyway out of necessity I found Brad Penn 20-50 which has zinc and the proper detergents to minimize acid build up as well. I have had excellent results.

[Mr. Chevy]

I prefer Amsoil full synthetic HD Racing oil for a motor that is broken in.... That stuff is very slippery also... I run it in my Nova (L78) solid lifter motor and really like it...

I'm gonna try the Lucas Oil Additive with conventional 20W50 Castrol in the L34 motor I have and see how well that combo works until I get some more miles on the motor...

Joe is correct, there is lots of "hype" on what kinds of oils to use.. And as far as the hardened seats and leaded fuel goes, I think thats a lot of "huey" also unless your going to drive the car everyday and put lots of miles on it.. My friend has a 325 HP 396 motor in his 66 Chevelle and never put hardened seats in the heads and has always run unleaded fuel in the motor and has never had a problem. The motor has been together for 20 plus years...

Rich

[m22mike]

[ QUOTE ]
... That stuff is very slippery also...

Come on Rich...Sammy...how do I tell If my oil is "Slippery" enough http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
Inquiring minds want to know... http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif

[SSRSBOB]

Talked to some of the well known NHRA engine builders that I've known for many years. Wykle, McGlasson, Luneak, Witaker, etc. They all like and use Brad Penn. I value these engine builders opinions more than the internet chat and articles which sometimes spin a topic to their liking.

Bob

[Salvatore]

During clean up when the old oil filter gets wet with oil, I have noticed that the oil filter is harder to grip after it is wet/soaked with the BP than the Castrol I was using. may be a strange way of telling but the oil filter just slips out of my hand easier. Harder to grip when wet. may not mean anything but something I have found to be. Also could be I changed my oil right after I ate some spaghetti with white clam sauce and olive oil. Still may be on my hands! http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/drool.gif http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/haha.gif http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/3gears.gif

[Steve Shauger]

Excellent controlled scientific data Sam http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/scholar.gif


[ QUOTE ]
During clean up when the old oil filter gets wet with oil, I have noticed that the oil filter is harder to grip after it is wet/soaked with the BP than the Castrol I was using. may be a strange way of telling but the oil filter just slips out of my hand easier. Harder to grip when wet. may not mean anything but something I have found to be. Also could be I changed my oil right after I ate some spaghetti with white clam sauce and olive oil. Still may be on my hands! http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/drool.gif http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/haha.gif http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/3gears.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

[Salvatore]

Hey, Just seat of the pants knowledge and being Italian! http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/haha.gif http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggthumpup.gif

[Mr. Chevy]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
... That stuff is very slippery also...

Come on Rich...Sammy...how do I tell If my oil is "Slippery" enough http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
Inquiring minds want to know... http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Mike, just put some on a tasty cake &amp; eat it!!! http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/haha.gif http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/haha.gif http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/haha.gif http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/haha.gif

Rich

[Salvatore]

Or like Karo Syrup on toast Rich! http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/drool.gif http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggthumpup.gif

[Salvatore]

If you run a high quality zinz oil and add some ZDDP or the Crane or Lucas additive is it possible to have too much zinc in your oil? Whats the best additive Lucas, Crane or ZDDP? Sam

[Verne_Frantz]

Sam,....TOOO much metal in your oil is always a bad thing! http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/no.gif

[DarrenX33]

The engine builder that did my L78 told me I can use plain castrol 10-30 with a bottle of Comp Cams cam breakin for every oil change and that would be good enough.

[Tracker1]

Is there a source for Valvoline 20W-50 VR1 in Toronto,Canada? Need some for the LS6 after reading this posting. I was using Castrol with GM 'EOS' added.

[Mr70]

Try Avenue Motor Works 416-747-2800 and reach Paul,ext 2238.
Most NAPA stores over there carry VR-1 racing oil,but if neither of those pan out,try calling Valvolines Canadian headquartered office at 1-800-286-4292.
Make sure you specify you're looking for VR-1 <u>Racing</u> oil.

[Tracker1]

Will do - thanks!

[lzdick]

[ QUOTE ]
If you run a high quality zinz oil and add some ZDDP or the Crane or Lucas additive is it possible to have too much zinc in your oil? Whats the best additive Lucas, Crane or ZDDP? Sam

[/ QUOTE ]

Sam,
Read the TechBriefs on the website. ZDDPlus (http://www.zddplus.com/)

TechBriefs #5 &amp; #6 address racing and diesel oils, respectively. TechBrief #7 on 'dosing' and TechBrief #8 on 'market viewpoint'.

It is the only product I use in my Camaros...and have a standing offer to get it to you at less expense than the $9.95 + UPS shipping on the Kirban website. Discounts to all SYC members.

[PaulK]

I have researched this a while ago with the different manufacturers chemists, and the present day (SM) Rotella, Delo400 and VR1 all have the required 1200 ppm zinc (especially for street use). These are a lot less expensive than Brad Penn, although the Brad oil does have more zinc ~1500ppm.

[69SSZL1]

I run Castrol GTX in my stock ZL-1 w/GM solid cam and lifters and never had a problem. I think the problems are with Chinese made cams and lifters, I only run GM stuff. The cam companies blame the "new" oil when it is their offshore crap that is to blame. I do think it is hype that you have to have high levels of Zinc. If you break-in your cam properly with the inner valve springs removed and lots of cam lube, you should have no problems.

[Salvatore]

Hey Greg, you may have something there with the Communist parts! Good point. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggthumpup.gif

[ss427copo]

Thanks for all the feedback....You guys are the best!

Jeff x 2 1/2 http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/burnout.gif