Which block-poll

[61 vert]

Which is the preferred route to go when restoring a car with the non born-with block and why?

#1 A casting date correct decked block with no stamp
or
#2 A CE block dated 1 to 6 months after the build date of the car.

Please weigh in.

This is on a real 69 COPO .

[JRSully]

IMO, a CE block because that "could" have been a (factory/dealer) logical next step if the original motor was gone/blown up and would have been installed by the dealer in the event there was warranty coverage. Dealer would not, more than likely, install a VIN stamped engine out of another car. My .02

[Fast67VelleN2O]

CE...

[PxTx]

I struggle with this concept. I think if the car has doccumentation about a CE ebing installed, it would be right to do that. If the original motor is just missing, I'm not sure how it is really much different than any other option.

I guess it is slightly more plausible that a CE motor could have been used under warranty, but without doccumentation where does it put you?

It is just as plausible that the original motor was decked for a re-build. I realize there are ways to bring a decked stamping to the surface. I think the argument of which is more acceptable boils down to wich one is easier to disprove as being an actual occurance.

[61 vert]

After 60 + views, I would think that there would be a few more opinions here. Speak up please.

[69Tom]

[ QUOTE ]
IMO, a CE block because that "could" have been a (factory/dealer) logical next step if the original motor was gone/blown up and would have been installed by the dealer in the event there was warranty coverage. Dealer would not, more than likely, install a VIN stamped engine out of another car. My .02

[/ QUOTE ]

I agree with this logic.

[m22mike]

CE...I would rather buy a car with a CE, rather than a restoration restamp, allot of guys I talk to would go this route too. After all is said and done, it's still a real motor as built. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/scholar.gif

[x77-69z28]

CE

[Mr70]

It wouldn't surprise me if someone later on tries to claim that CE engine as the one that replaced the original,6 mos. after back in the day...especially since this is a real COPO we're talking about.
I would go with block #1,but take it a step further and stamp DONOR,with your phone number afterwards into the bare engine pad.That way other owners after you will have a difficult time trying to "massage" it to look like the authentic original,or a later replaced service engine.
Mark the block secretly in another inconspicious area as well,with something only you know,to ID if need be in the future,just in case.
I know a few in your position that have done all these tactics and been very successful at debunking the claims of engine authenticity by newer owners later on down the line.

[RPOLS3]

Not trying to hijack the thread - but what year did Chevy start using CE blocks with a CE stamp on the front pad?

I have only heard of this on late 60's and later cars.

What did they do to identify the block as a replacement earlier than that - if anything?

Thanks

Jake

[XXXGoldL34M20]

i would take "A casting date correct decked block with no stamp" over a CE block.
i rather have a motor that is date code correct than a warranty block that comes after the build date of the car.
i understand that a lot of these motors blew up or were exchanged back in the day but i think there were more survivor motors on cars than CE warranty blocks. a lot more original motors were rebuilt and put back in the car with the block decked out anyways.
just be honest and tell people its date code correct with an original block that was made for the car but the block numbers are decked out.
Honestly if you don't have history or documents on your COPO stating that a CE block was infact replacing your original motor will it do you any good anyways?
so my vote is for #1.

[TimG]

CE blocks certainly don't mean that the engine was replaced under warranty and it would be extremly rare to have any type of paperwork about warranty exchange still with the car. Who's to say that the paperwork would be valid in any case. Some prior owner could have replaced the engine with a counter engine (CE). A CE block really means nothing, I'd rather have a block with nothing on the pad but a nice broach than a CE stamp.

[1969l78]

CE

[61 vert]

This is interesting and I appreciate the different reasons given for both options. Keep them coming.Thanks, Andy.

[Lynn]

There is another option. Lots of 69 Z/28's out there without the original engine, but the current owner picked up an actual DZ code block that is at least close in time to what the original was. When they go to sell, it is usually marketed as "NOM correct DZ 302". Yes, a little more trouble finding a correctly stamped (NOT restamped) block, and even more trouble for you, being a COPO, but they are out there, and I think that option at least deserves mention. I also like the idea of documenting what you do in some way and secretely marking the block, just in case some crook down the line tries to pass it off as the original born with motor. Maybe stamp something on the smooth surface that the starter mounts to. That way it isn't visible unless the starter is removed, but is still easily accessible.