Any Ideas on Engine Starting Problem?

[musclecar fan]

I live in Los Angeles and have a 69 RS/SS Convertible and am having engine starting problems. Here is what is happening: Sometimes when I go to start the car in the morning, or after I have already driven awhile I am unable to get the car to start-up. I turn the key and I only get is a single "click" which sounds like a relay or the starter solenoid or maybe something else. The engine does not crank over. If I have someone give me a "jump" with their battery I can start the car. My battery is new and is fully charged (I even changed it to make sure it wasn't the battery) and my starter and solenoid are new too (I even changed that again to isolate the issue). I still have the same problem, namely even if I get the car started, once I get to my location and shut the engine off, all I get is the single "click" sound. Someone suggested changing the ignition switch and/or the horn relay. Any ideas on what may be causing this?

[mockingbird812]

Voltage regulator may not be doing its job. Have you measured your voltage once started? You should be getting 14+ volts.

[Big Block Bill]

Next time you experience this problem, have someone bang on the starter with a mallet or some blunt object while you are trying to start the car. If it cranks over & starts, sounds to me like you have a bad spot on your starter motor.

Bill

[quick-bowtie]

Sounds like a ground problem to me or a loose wire some where?

[Rixls6]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Big Block Bill</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Next time you experience this problem, have someone bang on the starter with a mallet or some blunt object while you are trying to start the car. If it cranks over &amp; starts, sounds to me like you have a bad spot on your starter motor.

Bill </div></div>

I 2nd that idea.

[COPO]

He already said both the starter and solenoid were replaced already, plus a new battery and the problem still persists.

[bluel78]

I would take the starter off and bench test it. You could have to bad starters. Make sure the wiring and the wire ends are in good condition as well.

[musclecar fan]

Wiring and ends at the starter were checked and I even put a new connector on the solenoid (small black wire). If it's a poor ground, is there a specific place I should be checking? So no on the horn relay? Anybody know of a place in Los Angeles that I can have it checked out at? Thanks

[jbsides]

What cross streets are you near? I can ask my partner if he will check it out for you. His day job is in Beverly Hills.

JB

[njsteve]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: musclecar fan</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wiring and ends at the starter were checked and I even put a new connector on the solenoid (small black wire). If it's a poor ground, is there a specific place I should be checking? So no on the horn relay? Anybody know of a place in Los Angeles that I can have it checked out at? Thanks </div></div>

Do you have all of the braided copper ground straps that connect the firewall to the back of the block and the block to the subframe? Also, use some rolled up sandpaper to clean the insides of the battery terminal connectors as well as the terminals themselves. Then tighten the terminals securely. I've had the exact same problem in the past when the ground fails to complete the circuit after initially arcing across the gap of a poor battery to cable contact.

Also, do you have the aftermarket, replacement bolt-on ends on your battery cables? Sometimes the same problem occurs when the copper cable-to-metal end, contact breaks down.

[firez]

I had a similar problem with my 68 Z. It ended up being a bad spring ring battery cable. If I squeezed the cable end with pliers the car would start. If you are using those cables give the end a squeeze on the battery post.

[92646]

I did not see if you had headers or a big block but this kind of problem can happen when the starter and wires get hot. Remember they installed heat shields on big block cars to help fix this type of problem. I would still go back to the starter and battery and verify everything is working properly. Just because they are new does not mean they do not have a problem.

[musclecar fan]

It's a stock car with 350 engine, auto and stock cast exhaust manifolds, etc. I do have spring ring cables and have made sure they are clean and tight. I also took the ground screw out on the radiator support on the passenger side that attaches the ground wires and used emory cloth to make a good metal-to-metal connection. As to the copper ground cables between the engine block and firewall and frame they are all there and securely attached. When I turn the key the &quot;single click sound&quot; seems to originate under the dash and the batt and generator lights light up (red)as I turn the key. No overheating problems, etc and the battery is not going dead and remains fully charged. It's kind of embarrasing to drive it to a car show and not be able to move it after I shut it off. This is frustrating....

[Charley Lillard]

I would start by changing out battery cables. I have seen crimped cables that looked perfect but were junk.

[68z28kk]

The symptoms are typical of a corroded or rusted terminal block located behind the battery. I run a temporary jumper wire from the positive battery cable to the horn relay terminal marked battery. If the engine starts with the jumper in place you will need to clean the connection behind the battery on the little plastic terminal block. This is a very common ailment on the Camaros. Clint

[Big Block Bill]

It is my experience that if it is a bad ground or a bad connection there would be a voltage drop or a &quot;repetition of clicks sound&quot; just like a low battery. Plus he said if he jumps it with another power source it starts right up overcoming the bad spot on the starter. Bench testing is hard to duplicate a starter bolted on an engine. For some reason, starters like to stop in the same spot.

Bill

[njsteve]

I had the single &quot;click&quot; problem on my 69 Pace Car. It was the repro spring ring battery cables. The neg cable would not hold tight enough to the battery terminal. It would give one click and nothing more. I would then pop the hood push the clamp down hard against the battery and it would start normally.

[PeteLeathersac]

Do the headlights also shut down when the click thing happens?.
If so it sure sounds like connection, ground, wiring or solenoid problems more than the starter body itself?.
Using jumper cables from your own battery, create a direct ground by clamping the negative end to your starter itself and trying it again..
If no-go there, unhook the neg. cable and create direct positive to the starter connections using your battery jumper lead clamped to a long screwdriver if necessary to access the connections...being careful may involve slipping heater hose or something over the screwdriver shaft and/or getting the screwdriver end in first then having someone else hook up the live end?.

Good luck!.
<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif
~ Pete

[jasonL78]

Possible bad switch or connection through your firewall. I am almost positive Camaro is the same as Nova. A red battery wire comes from behind the battery through the front wiring harness to the firewall connector then to the switch. From the switch back out to the starter. You may have a bad contact on your switch or firewall connector? Just a couple of spots to check.

Jason

[Tommy]

I also think it is probably in the cables or ground straps. The only other thing to check that I can think of would be the Neutral safety switch but that won't normally cause the click sound.


Tommy <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/smile.gif