View Full Version : Sottering a plate frame? Need help
MosportGreen66
11-02-2010, 04:20 AM
Hey Gents,
I need your brilliant minds. Bought a vintage plate frame that cracked in transit. I need to make this thing whole again - what are your suggestions?
Here are the photos.
Thanks,
Dan
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v441/mosportgreen66/P1010002-9.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v441/mosportgreen66/p1010003-11.jpg
MosportGreen66
11-02-2010, 05:00 AM
Pardon the misspelling... Soldering is what I was aiming for.
Dan
m22mike
11-02-2010, 01:27 PM
Dan
Unless someone knows of some space are trick, I do not think you can repair that crappie pot metal that way... <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/hmmm.gif
I would make a aluminum stiffener patch that fits the back of the frame snugly between the formed edges and extends about 1 to 2" beyond the crack on both sides.
The little stiffener patch only needs to be around .020" , even a piece of roof flashing might work, something not to thick.
Sand the bottom of the patch and the area of the frame to create some bite for some good epoxy.
On the patch drill a series of # 30 / 1/8 holes so the epoxy has more more area to hold onto. Back up with a paint stick and clamp till dry. And then be gentle with it. Might work.
Mike
kwhizz
11-02-2010, 01:52 PM
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: m22mike</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Dan
Unless someone knows of some space are trick, I do not think you can repair that crappie pot metal that way... <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/hmmm.gif
I would make a aluminum stiffener patch that fits the back of the frame snugly between the formed edges and extends about 1 to 2" beyond the crack on both sides.
The little stiffener patch only needs to be around .020" , even a piece of roof flashing might work, something not to thick.
Sand the bottom of the patch and the area of the frame to create some bite for some good epoxy.
On the patch drill a series of # 30 / 1/8 holes so the epoxy has more more area to hold onto. Back up with a paint stick and clamp till dry. And then be gentle with it. Might work.
Mike </div></div>
What he said!!
MosportGreen66
11-02-2010, 02:00 PM
Thanks a lot guys! I'll get working on it.
Dan
m22mike
11-02-2010, 11:04 PM
Make sure you show us your work...you'll be graded .... <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif
MosportGreen66
11-03-2010, 12:54 AM
No shot I trust myself to do this... Its being farmed out because I'm a wimp.
Sorry Mike... haha.
Dan
Xplantdad
11-03-2010, 02:30 AM
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MosportGreen66</div><div class="ubbcode-body">No shot I trust myself to do this... Its being farmed out because I'm a wimp.
Sorry Mike... haha.
Dan </div></div>
LOL...c'mon Dan! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/smile.gif
x Baldwin Motion
11-03-2010, 12:02 PM
Dan, you can do this, I reccomend "marine tex" as the epoxy of choice. Good Luck.
<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif
mbxlesney
11-04-2010, 05:16 AM
Hi Dan.....I have had a simular incident and these guys may be able to solve your problem. http://www.muggyweld.com/potmetal.html
They have videos you can see how the process is to repair pot metal and other diecast items. You have to buy their rods and flux but you can use a propane torch if you do not have a welder. Their rods can be used to fill pits in pot metal also. Hope this helps. Kim
m22mike
11-04-2010, 03:14 PM
That's cool, did not know that.
Thanks for the post.
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