My new 1968 Nova L79 project.

[jasonL78]

I just picked up my new project, A 1968 L79 Nova. Anyone recognize it? It came with all the original paper work, title, 1968 registration, broadcast sheet and pop. It has a factory replacement warranty block, the original 3 speed transmission and original BT- rear-end. Yep and it's a factory air car! I am really looking forward to this project. It’s funny how things work out I was looking at this car last year but just couldn’t come up with the money. Now it resides in my garage one year later.

Enjoy!!!!!

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2010_1205L79nova0036.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2010_1205L79nova0034.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2010_1205L79nova0033.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2010_1205L79nova0035.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2010_1205L79nova0020.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2010_1205L79nova0024.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2010_1205L79nova0026.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/L79NovaPOP.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/L79Broadcastsheet.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/L79Tittleregistration.jpg

[al8apex]

so the original owner was trying to fake out people with the 396 fender badges?

<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/smile.gif

nice survivor, I would leave it the way it is ...

cool / odd option combinations: three speed, factory a/c and the high performance 327, sounds like something my dad would have ordered, he would want the ac but wouldn't pay extra for the 4 speed ... <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/smile.gif

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

Nice car, love the paperwork!

[70 Forest Green Zee]

Why does it have 396 fender badges if it is an original small block car?

[jasonL78]

Don't know why? Maybe the guy with the 396 lost them during a race!!!!!

<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/3gears.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/3gears.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/3gears.gif

[ORIGLS6]

That's kick-a$$ just as it is. I'd be tempted to do some clean up and DRIVE IT!!!!!!

[kwhizz]

Man!........Talk about a &quot;Rare&quot; car........WOW!!

Ken

[x Baldwin Motion]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ORIGLS6</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That's kick-a$$ just as it is. I'd be tempted to do some clean up and DRIVE IT!!!!!! </div></div>


The newest PatinaMobile !!! Beautiful!!! If that's the original paint I have two words for you.. &quot;boeShield it&quot; !!

( is that three words?)

[CC Rider]

<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/cool.gif

Enjoy it as is, at least for a little while. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif

[jasonL78]

The car runs and has brakes but will need a trunk pan. The back window was leaking water for years. It is on the 2 do list.

[Schonyenko2]

Nice piece Jason. Is the original owner still around? It would be interesting to hear why he ordered it the way he did. I can attest to how well a 68 L79 Nova 3 spd will run having had our butts handed to us one night when we thought the 383 64 Dodge we were in ran pretty well.
Jason, is the blk stamped CE, or does it have the correct stamp for the L79 replacement assy?

[Kim_Howie]

That thing is as rare as chicken lips!!!
Jason, Congrates on the car Kim

[MrsBillyBobcat]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jasonL78</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It’s funny how things work out I was looking at this car last year but just couldn’t come up with the money. Now it resides in my garage one year later.


</div></div>

Sounds like it was meant to be. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/wink.gif

Congratulations Jason! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif

[jasonL78]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Schonyenko2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Nice piece Jason. Is the original owner still around? It would be interesting to hear why he ordered it the way he did. I can attest to how well a 68 L79 Nova 3 spd will run having had our butts handed to us one night when we thought the 383 64 Dodge we were in ran pretty well.
Jason, is the blk stamped CE, or does it have the correct stamp for the L79 replacement assy? </div></div>

I looked on the engine pad and didn't see CE just a bunch of numbers? What would the number be for a L79 replacement assembly? I will be talking to the original owner as soon as I get his phone number from a previous owner. If I was to register this car I would be the second registered owner. The original title is in the original owners name.
The story is the original motor blew up on the way home from the dealer the day they bought it! The dealer replaced the short block assembly. It still has the double hump heads and correct intake so I never questioned the short block. I will get the numbers from the pad tonight and post them.

jason

[92646]

Oh this is going to be so neat. Jason please take a bunch of pictures and post them as you look this car over. I would venture to guess there is going to be a few one off parts on this car. Do you still have the L78 Nova too? Is the core support big block or small block? I have always wondered why they went to the trouble of welding a small block lower radiator mount to a big block core support if the big block radiator bolts on with brackets welded to the radiator side tanks.

[427TJ]

Was the L79 still a solid-lifter, aluminum intake, Holley carb engine in '68?

[WILMASBOYL78]

The L79 was never a solid lifter motor, it featured the &quot;151&quot; hi-po hydraulic camshaft. The original version started out with the aluminum intake and small Holley carb. (350hp rating) In 1967 the L79 was changed to a cast iron intake and Rochester QJ....HP rating was dropped to 325hp. The rest of the engine internals were the same...cam, heads, 11 to 1 pistons, etc. The only thing I'm not sure of is how this engine was setup for the Corvette in the 67-68 era...but for the Nova and Chevelle the info above applies.

wilma

[427TJ]

Thanks Wilma!

[jasonL78]

I will take a lot of pictures during the restoration to share with everyone. I will be starting this ASAP. Yep still have the 68 L78 nova to. I went up to the gargae tonight to get the engine pad numbers. I used a scotch brite pad to remove some surface rust. Under the surface rust I think I see a light stamp for CE8 the 29638 is clearly visable and the eight is almost sideways. The block casting number is 3914678. Which is 68 327.

Jason

[Steve Shauger]

The L79 in the 67 &amp; 68 corvette had an aluminum intake and was rated at 350hp. In 69 the L79 was no longer available but the equivalent was the 350-350hp which had a cast iron intake and rochester carb.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: WILMASBOYL78</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The L79 was never a solid lifter motor, it featured the &quot;151&quot; hi-po hydraulic camshaft. The original version started out with the aluminum intake and small Holley carb. (350hp rating) In 1967 the L79 was changed to a cast iron intake and Rochester QJ....HP rating was dropped to 325hp. The rest of the engine internals were the same...cam, heads, 11 to 1 pistons, etc. The only thing I'm not sure of is how this engine was setup for the Corvette in the 67-68 era...but for the Nova and Chevelle the info above applies.

wilma </div></div>

[WILMASBOYL78]

Thanks Steve...I thought that was the case.

tw

ps...what was the last year that you could get plain steel wheels on a Corvette with hubcaps or wheel covers..?? Not sure why I need to know...just curious.

[Fast67VelleN2O]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: paceme</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
The L79 in the 67 &amp; 68 corvette had an aluminum intake and was rated at 350hp. In 69 the L79 was no longer available but the equivalent was the 350-350hp which had a cast iron intake and rochester carb.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: WILMASBOYL78</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The L79 was never a solid lifter motor, it featured the &quot;151&quot; hi-po hydraulic camshaft. The original version started out with the aluminum intake and small Holley carb. (350hp rating) In 1967 the L79 was changed to a cast iron intake and Rochester QJ....HP rating was dropped to 325hp. The rest of the engine internals were the same...cam, heads, 11 to 1 pistons, etc. The only thing I'm not sure of is how this engine was setup for the Corvette in the 67-68 era...but for the Nova and Chevelle the info above applies.

wilma </div></div> </div></div>

Just to clear this up. Don't want the wrong information floating around. The 1967 Chevelle L79 and 1967 Corvette L79 still had an aluminum intake and Holley Carburetor. The 1967 Nova L79 had a cast iron intake and Rochester carburetor. All 1968 Chevrolet L79 equipped vehicles had a cast iron intake manifold and a rochester carburetor.
-Matt

[Schonyenko2]

Appears your information from the original owner is right on. I thought perhaps that if it was blown up early, and bad enough, that it might have recieved a engine replacement. Some of those had the correct pad stamps, for example CTB for a 4 spd deuce, but no sequential vin nbr.
I wonder if he wanted a 396 with air, but when told that wasn't available, settled on the next highest hp rated motor he could get with air. Always interesting to find the reasoning why people ordered cars the way they did.

[Steve Shauger]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fast67VelleN2O</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: paceme</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
The L79 in the 67 &amp; 68 corvette had an aluminum intake and was rated at 350hp. In 69 the L79 was no longer available but the equivalent was the 350-350hp which had a cast iron intake and rochester carb.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: WILMASBOYL78</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The L79 was never a solid lifter motor, it featured the &quot;151&quot; hi-po hydraulic camshaft. The original version started out with the aluminum intake and small Holley carb. (350hp rating) In 1967 the L79 was changed to a cast iron intake and Rochester QJ....HP rating was dropped to 325hp. The rest of the engine internals were the same...cam, heads, 11 to 1 pistons, etc. The only thing I'm not sure of is how this engine was setup for the Corvette in the 67-68 era...but for the Nova and Chevelle the info above applies.

wilma </div></div> </div></div>

Just to clear this up. Don't want the wrong information floating around. The 1967 Chevelle L79 and 1967 Corvette L79 still had an aluminum intake and Holley Carburetor. The 1967 Nova L79 had a cast iron intake and Rochester carburetor. All 1968 Chevrolet L79 equipped vehicles had a cast iron intake manifold and a rochester carburetor.
-Matt </div></div>

Oops good catch on the 1968 L79...

[WILMASBOYL78]

You guys are good....thanks for all the &quot;fine tuning&quot;.

wilma

[427TJ]

That's why I don't mind asking questions around here. All this great information!

[ORIGLS6]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: WILMASBOYL78</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
ps...what was the last year that you could get plain steel wheels on a Corvette with hubcaps or wheel covers..?? Not sure why I need to know...just curious. </div></div>

I'm sure the '69 Corvette could be had with full wheel covers; maybe the '70 and '71 also.

[al8apex]

the last year for &quot;plain&quot; wheels on a Corvette was 1966, all after that (except 67 bolt ons) were rally wheels, the P01/P02 wheel covers were installed over the rally wheels.

[markjohnson]

I had one of these '68 L-79 Novas that I sold just a few years ago. It was a solid red car with black bucket seat interior,327-325 HP, 4-Speed, and 3.55 gear'ed 12-Bolt. I purchased it from the original owner with it's original Protect-O-Plate. It even came with the original Goodyear Blue Streaks slicks that it was raced on when it was new and came with all the original smog equipment that was removed in one piece as an assmbly and placed in a box in the attic! As mentioned above, in '68, ALL the L-79's including 'Vettes, Chevelles, and Novas came with cast-iron intakes/Q-Jets. Heck, the '68 Q-Jets had a higher CFM rating than the earlier 1965-66 L-79's with small Holley's and may have even been faster! Anyway, I hope the original selling dealer replaced that short block properly. The '68 L-79 has a VERY RARE, low production crankshaft in it. It should be a forged 3.250 stroke, large journal crankshaft and would be a very difficult piece to find these days. Anyway, neat find and don't forget.....one of these cars would make a great Pure Stock terror!

[92646]

Talk about rare, I worked at an engine rebuilder for 5 years and never saw a large journal 327 steel crank. It makes complete sense because 68 and 69 327 motors were large journals but every one I ever saw was cast. The only factory steel cranks I saw were small journal 327 cranks, small and large journal 350 cranks and small and large journal 283/302 cranks. Does this motor have forged pistons and deep groove pulleys also?

[jasonL78]

Mark, so who bought the car? Is it being restored?

Jason

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

I thought the red one ended up with Jeff L in Nashville. I think he was going to resto it now that he finished the GG one that was from SD.

I knew Mike in NY had your blue one Jason, and heard it was at Wayne's for awhile but didn't know it was owned by a guy in FL.

[SSRSBOB]

That is a very cool car!

Bob

[markjohnson]

Mine went to a fellow here in Missouri and is being restored. He's a big fan of '68 Novas, and from what I've seen of the one he was finishing up when he bought mine, it went to the right person. It's gonna be a great car after resto. It was amazingly complete and numbers-matching: Born-with engine, transmission, rearend, carb, dist, smog equip, Muncie shifter. I can't think of any of the hard-to-find components that were missing. It's was a great restoration candidate.

[jasonL78]

Great can't wait to see the car done.

Jason

[al8apex]

I would rather see it left as is ...

too many &quot;restored&quot; cars and not enough left to remind us of what they all looked like after years of use ...

IMHO anyway, YMMV

[WILMASBOYL78]

Found this interesting Super Chevy article on L79...very well done.

wilma

http://www.superchevy.com/features/chevellemontecarlo/sucs_0732_chevy_l79_engine/index.html

[jasonL78]

Thanks for the link Tom that was a real good article.

This is the radiator a past owner took out of the car it is suposed to be original? One tank has the letters I /A embossed into the tank. The tank with the cap had C /D along with a triangular tag with the numbers 7 79 31? Anyone have any idea what these codes are. It also looks like it might have been repaired next to the cap at one time? I don’t think that is original?

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2010_1208L79nova0002.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2010_1208L79nova0003.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2010_1208L79nova0005.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2010_1208L79nova0008.jpg

[jasonL78]

I just got of the phone with the original owner of my 68 L79. What a great guy to talk too. He ordered the car this way. So I asked why the 3 speed and he said his wife didn’t know how to drive standard so he figured one less gear would make it easier for her to learn. He almost ordered the super sport package with the L79 but he thought the hood grills looked cheap. I asked what happened to the original motor; he said the day they picked up the car 1 mile from the dealer the motor just locked up. So the dealer put a gm replacement short block assembly in the car. As for the 396 emblems on the fenders he remembers one of them broke, so he went to get a replacement and all they had in stock was the 396 emblems. So that is what he put on. As for the original 327 emblems they were the cast type not the foil type according to the original owner. The only modifications he did over the years were air shocks, a new cam, and a heavy duty clutch. The car was never raced or abused, just a really fast family car. LOL!

Jason

[Xplantdad]

Very neat Jason!

[jasonL78]

I was informed you couldn't order the L79 with the super sport package in 68. I was just going with what the original owner told me.

I have been busy the past couple of weeks. I just installed the new trunk pan from the donor car today. I have the passenger side outer wheel well all set along with both trunk drop offs. I wanted to get the trunk pan in before I fix the inner C pillars. Things are looking good.


http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2010_1228L79nova0006.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2010_1228L79nova0005.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2010_1228L79nova0007.jpg

[jasonL78]

I have been moving forward on the restoration. I was able to get all the panels mocked up on the car to make sure my gaps all look good. Then I removed all the panels and blasted the inner structure and then I gave it a couple of coats of epoxy primer. I have passenger side quarter all welded up and I will be working on the drivers side tomorrow. Not enough hours in the day!

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2011_0113nova0002.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2011_0113nova0004.jpg



http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2011_0129nova0002.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2011_0129nova0001.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2011_0129nova0004.jpg

I didn't post any pictures but this is what I started with.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2010_1217L79nova0011.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2010_1217L79nova0013.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2010_1218L79nova0005.jpg

[Nova Jed]

I love to see these pictures. It just shows how determined and dedicated people are to save history.

Keep up the good work! Looks good.

[92646]

Jason you are a true craftsman. All the bodymen I have dealt with out here in southern California are fat and happy on insurance replacement work and would not take on some thing that requires this much work much less know how to do it anymore.

[Salvatore]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Nova Jed</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I love to see these pictures. It just shows how determined and dedicated people are to save history.

Keep up the good work! Looks good. </div></div>Just like you Jed-I!!

[300deluxeL79]

great to see another L79 coming back to life! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

[VintageMusclecar]

Wow, those pics sure look familiar! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/crazy.gif

I tip my hat to you for not only having the talent to perform these repairs yourself, but also the patience.

TWO <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

[JoeG]

Pride in your work really shows thru...........

[Xplantdad]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JoeG</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Pride in your work really shows thru........... </div></div>

I totally agree! Looks great <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif

[jasonL78]

Looking for a little nova help with this tab on the rear package tray panel where it meets the quarter? This panel is new and I am not sure if the originals had this tab? My car was rotted in this area and I don't have a picture to look at? My 68 L78 nova is tucked away for the winter so to look at it is kind of hard to do. Not sure if some one has a picture of this area or can take one for me?

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/untitled.jpg

[Nova Jed]

Yes that is supposed to be there. The other thing that I had noted with the repop quarters was that the drip rail didn't meet that tab like the originals. The tab is there to be folded over when the trunk weatherstrip is installed. It tends to not want to stay in the corner, hence the tab.

[jasonL78]

Jed I noticed that about the quarters also and was wondering if it should go up to that tab. But the way every thing comes together that tab would be on the inside, so you are saying that tab is suposed to fold over on top of trunk weather striping? To me that don't make sense, the metal on top of the weather striping? Won't the metal rub on the inner trunk?


Jason

[Nova Jed]

Nope, the metal doesn't rub against the trunk lid after it's folded over top of the weatherstripping. I know it's kinda goofy, but that was the way it was done. The weatherstripping tends to bulge out around the end of that tab when it's folded over. Kinda like when you would press your finger into pizza dough. Plus, the stripping is new and is puffy all around the entire perimeter of the trunk.

You would have to look a couple of trunk shots to understand.
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj88/NovaJed/614249-R1-22-3A_023.jpg
<span style="font-weight: bold">Look closely in the upper right hand corner of the trunk.</span>

[jasonL78]

Got it thanks for the picture.

[Nova Jed]

I hope that didn't sound smart. I was trying to explain what I already had pictures of. Just didn't have any great shots.

[Schonyenko2]

Folded over the top of the weather strip is correct. Nice work.

[jasonL78]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Nova Jed</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I hope that didn't sound smart. </div></div>


Not at all Jed you helped out a lot. I just didn't want to miss that detail. I am going to add that missing piece of drip rail also.

Thanks again.

[Nova Jed]

OK, good. That piece is real tiny by the way. I'll take some pics.

[Nova Jed]

OK, good. That piece is real tiny by the way. I'll take some pics.

[jasonL78]

Tom Williams helped out with the best picture. I didn't think that trunk seal was that wide. It all makes sense now.

Thanks again

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/69_L-78_picture_5-4-2008_0231.jpg

[Nova Jed]

Def a great shot. Good work Tom.

[WILMASBOYL78]

Always happy to help one of the &quot;young guys'...

wilma <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/rolleyes.gif

[jasonL78]

Well I got the back half of the car into 2 coats of epoxy primer and then 2 coats off high build primer. The car has come a long way in the past 3 months. What to do next hmmmmmm?

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2011_0218nova0001.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2011_0218nova0002.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2011_0218nova0006.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2011_0218nova0008.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2011_0218nova0007.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2011_0218nova0009.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2011_0218nova0010.jpg

[Xplantdad]

Looks great Jason!

[SS427]

Ditto Jason!

[Mr.Nickey Nova]

You do some good work Jason,car will look great when done.

[kwhizz]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mr.Nickey Nova</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You do some good work Jason,car will look great when done. </div></div>

x 100

[WILMASBOYL78]

He sure has come a long way with these Novas since he first met me <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/rolleyes.gif

Couple more restos and he'll have it down pat.. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif

[brent396]

Jason great work <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif

[Nova Jed]

Looks great! How many hours do you have into both sides?

[x Baldwin Motion]

I would love to redo the Nova.

[jasonL78]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Nova Jed</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Looks great! How many hours do you have into both sides? </div></div>

Jed I used to keep track but that got old real quick. It is real hard sometimes doing this type of work by yourself. Hours pass and I look back and say that is all I got done! I am going to say I have to have at least 100 + hours in both quarters and outer wheel wells. That doesn't include the trunk pan install. Just to weld one side back onto the car I bet it took me 6 hours or so.

Have you been recording your hours on your 69 nova?

Thank you everyone for the kind words. I feed of all the replys, it makes you feel good about taking on a project like this. I must admit sometimes I ask myself why??? LOL! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/smile.gif

This type of work is truely a labor of love!

Jason

[Nova Jed]

Jason, my dads cousin has the &quot;crash&quot; book from the 70's. It gives you 14 hours per side to cut and replace each quarter. 1.5 hrs per outer wheelhouse and 2 per inner wheelhouse. None of those figures include finishing, paint ect. Let's just say that those numbers are dead on. I'm sure the refinish is a lot quicker in the 70's then today. Someone correct me on that if I'm wrong. But I had both quarters welded on in a FULL weekend. Finishing is another story. It's tough to tackle at first, but just keep picturing what you want it to look like when it's done and take your time.

[jasonL78]

Jed that is crazy 17 hours to replace both quarter and both outer wheel wells. If I wasn't concerned about all the welds being finished I would say maybe. I guess back then you didn't have all the rust issues we have to deal with. You know by some of the projects I have seen you post pictures of, once you remove the quarter you never know what you will find. I had to rebuild both inner C pillars and repair the lower roof lip also.

Jason

[jasonL78]

I spent the day taking the dash apart it will be fun putting all the Ac parts back together. Thank god for digital cameras. One thing I noticed was the tape to hold the gasket on the steering column seal bracket. I also found the part number on the rear wiring harness. The date code on back of the speedometer housing looks like C-18-68. I wouldn’t think the shifter hole would look this bad but I guess this is how they did it back then? The one thing I found interesting is the heater box wire for a non Ac car was behind the motor all rolled up. On an Ac car this wire isn’t used. Another wiring harness comes through the fire wall and one of the wires goes to the heater fan motor.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2011_0220nova0048.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2011_0220nova0001.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2011_0220nova0010.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2011_0220nova0002.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2011_0220nova0005.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2011_0220nova0039.jpg

[Nova Jed]

Somewhere on the site someone had talked about the shifter hole. GM just torched them out. Yea the hours are crazy, but the rust is why I usually replace it all. I figured out that time is money and I rather pay the extra cash instead of making patches. Somehow I've lucked out on some of the hulks that I bring home. I haven't had to replace everything. Ha ha. Jason, this is where the real fun begins.

[kwhizz]

Here's a picture of my original 66 Nova......Shifter opening cut out with a torch..............

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a251/kwhizz/66%20Yellow%20Nova%20Project/DSC05355.jpg

Ken

[MIKE STONE]

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2011_0220nova0039.jpg

I had that (mystery) wire folded over inside the gutter with a taped end, no plug.

[RPOLS3]

Here is a thread where we discussed the orange mystery wire as well.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&amp;Number=414646&amp;page=1

Jake

[jasonL78]

I also found the three wires for the resistor on the non ac heater box cut. I think the colors were yellow,blue, and orange. I was a little worried seeing the harness cut but it makes sense now. Thanks for the link.

jason

[mockingbird812]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kwhizz</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Here's a picture of my original 66 Nova......Shifter opening cut out with a torch..............

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a251/kwhizz/66%20Yellow%20Nova%20Project/DSC05355.jpg

Ken </div></div>

You have a real nice underside Ken! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/wink.gif

[Kim_Howie]

I don't think we have to go any farther with that Sam. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/haha.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/haha.gif This is a family site ya know. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/rolleyes.gif

[mockingbird812]

Yeah, but Kim, I know you were thinking the same thing I was!

[Kim_Howie]

Yeah <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

[jasonL78]

It has been a while since I posted pictures of the L79 nova restoration. I installed both rear floor pans this weekend. I think they came out real nice. I just have to finish with a coat of mar glass. I repaired the top of the dash area, replaced the driver side A pillar cover and grafted in a piece into the passenger side A pillar cover. I just have to replace the driver’s side floor pan then all the sheet metal replacement is just about done. They car has come a long way for sure!

Jason

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2011_0403L79NOVA0004.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2011_0403L79NOVA0003.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2011_0403L79NOVA0007.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2011_0403L79NOVA0008.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/2011_0403L79NOVA0009.jpg

[Xplantdad]

Nice work Jason...keep the info and pictures coming!

[kwhizz]

<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/youguysrock.gif

[Nova Jed]

Keep up the good work Jason! Stick with it!

[Tommy]

Looks good Jason!


Tommy <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/smile.gif

[Nova Jed]

Any updates?

[jasonL78]

Jed not much work done in the past couple of weeks. My kids start thier spring sports so that is taking up a lot of my time for the next month or so. I do have the car on my body jig and the floor pans are all installed. Any new pictures of the car will be posted on the L79 registry in the future here is the link.

http://68l-79novaregistry.com/68_L-79_Nova_Owners_Page.html

Not to mention I promised a family friend I would put a drivers side floor pan in his 1964 chevy 2 nova super sport last year. So that is in my garage now. He has owned the car since 1969. It was his first car. A real nice car that had a floor patch years ago brazed it. What a pain in the A## to cut out. Not to mention the sparks from the cut off wheel. You have to be extra carefull doing this work with a finished car. LOL!

Jason

[jasonL78]

Moving forward with the restoration. I have the rearend all rebuilt and detailed. The L79 is at the machine shop. The transmission should be back at the end of the week.I just got the car onto the rotisserie and media blasted the bottom today. I also had time to put some black epoxy and high build primer on it. Time to start sanding.







http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/9-1-11-L79009.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/9-1-11-L79005-1.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/bottomside002.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/bottomside004.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/bottomside005.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/bottomside006.jpg

[Xplantdad]

Looks good Jason!

[kwhizz]

Wow!!!.............

[markinnaples]

Wow, looks great so far.

[markjohnson]

That 12-Bolt rear axle housing just looks frickin' unbelievable! No pits or anything. How'd you get that metal so smooth?

[jasonL78]

Actually the rear-end housing only had some very light pitting. The car was from Louisiana so it really never seen the harsh environments. Just a couple of coats of high build a small amount of filler and you end up with a very nice housing. It is all about how much time you put into it.

Jason

[CC Rider]

Nice! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

[jasonL78]

Finally got the bottom side all painted with the top coat. I just have to fade some blue over spray.

I am moving onto the sub-frame next. So when I get my motor back the sub-frame will be all ready for the motor and transmission.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/005.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/009.jpg

[kwhizz]

Amazing!!!.......Great Job Jason.......Get her done and we can do a Cars from Nu Yawk display at MCACN next year......LOL

[jasonL78]

Well that is a long ways out. Maybe that should be my goal to have it done for next years MCACN show. Its hard to beleave it has been a year already since I started the car. Time sure does fly by.

[brent396]

Good Job Jason

[jasonL78]

Another very happy customer from Vintage musclecar. Eric did an great job on the #229 L79 carb for my car.

Thanks Jason

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/L79carb002.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/L79carb003.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/L79carb004.jpg

[Nova Jed]

Looks awsome Jason. A couple of us guys were talking about your resto at the Show in Chicago. We all said that you are doing an awsome job and can't wait to see more progress. Keep the pictures coming!

[jasonL78]

Jed
Thanks for all the great compliments. I enjoy sharing my experiences with everyone in the hobby. This is how I learned almost everything I know about these cars on great forums like this one. It’s all about making new friends and sharing our experiences with everyone.
As for the L79 I have been moving forward with the restoration. Just slowly! I have both the upper and lower control arms all painted with the new bushings and ball joints pressed in. I am working on the sub frame now. This is one of the control arms finished, I just have to install the 68 nova heavy duty suspension bolt in snubber .
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/003.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/009-1.jpg
One thing I did find on my steering center link was a unique finish. The center link had a silver/ blue finish that was very hard to remove in the sand blast cabinet. I tried to duplicate it the best I could. Some say the finish is part of the heat treating process?
Before
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/011.jpg

After
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/005-1.jpg

On the driver side of sub frame I found some grease pen markings. At first I thought it was an (EP) marking but after I cleaned the area it looks like (SP)
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/007-1.jpg
On the passenger side I found an (L-I) marking.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/001.jpg

Not really sure what these mean. The SP might be special performance maybe? But the (L-I) I have no idea? Anyone?



A lot of my time lately has been spent cleaning and detailing all the small brackets, nuts, bolts, and clips. I bought a phosphate kit from Caswell INC. It has a penetrating sealant you put on the parts after you phosphate them. It seems to help the parts from flash rusting after the phosphate process. Overall it’s a very easy process and the parts look great. Anyone else use this kit from Caswell?
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/002.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/001-1.jpg

I heard from my engine builder that my motor might be done early next week we will see.

[jasonL78]

Steve over at brake booster did a great job rebuilding and plating my booster and backing plates
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/027.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/025.jpg
He also plated my shifter body and shifting arms. This is the original shifter all put back together with the original re-chromed handle.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/006.jpg

The machine shop did some mild port work to the heads for that little extra power out of the L79. Just in case someday we end up at the ¼ mile.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/PIC_1260.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/PIC_1259.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/PIC_1255.jpg

The new heartbeat!
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/PIC_1244.jpg

[jasonL78]

Any tips for installing the springs in the perches?

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/subframe002.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/subframe003.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/subframe004.jpg

[olredalert]

----Internal spring compressor. If you can figure how to do it without scratching something, somewhere count yourself as very lucky and go buy a lottery ticket.....Bill S

[Plowman]

Put the moter mount stands in before you put the springs in,will be easy now. Hope that helps. *Paul

[Nova Jed]

Jason, last year I put my springs in with the internal spring compressor and used a lot of blue painters tape on the subframe, springs, and compressor arms. Worked out pretty well. I just had to peel the compressed tape off the shock mount hole in the top of the subframe after the upper and lower control arms were bolted to the spindle. Cheap insurance! Hope this helps?

[jasonL78]

I got the springs installed over the weekend. I took Greg Roberts advice from Nova Research and used the spring compressor through the shock hole. What I did was put this internal spring compressor bolt down through the shock hole. Then I put the spring into the pocket inserted the hooks and tightened the spring into the spring pocket. It worked out great. Just a little touch up nothing major. Thanks again Greg.

Updated picture of the subframe.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/004.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/003-1.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/001-2.jpg

[68COPO]

Real Nice Jason. Who makes that tool?
Rick

[jasonL78]

Rick OEM makes it. This is the link to Amazon. Very nice quality. The last internal spring compressor I bought was junk after 1 use.

http://www.amazon.com/27035-Internal-Coi...8372&amp;sr=8-1 (http://www.amazon.com/27035-Internal-Coil-Spring-Compressor/dp/B003A18KCQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1325158372&amp;sr=8-1)

[Salvatore]

real nice work Jason!

[olredalert]

----Yup,,,Thats the one! I have been using mine for the better part of 20 years.....Bill S

[VintageMusclecar]

Looking great Jason, thanks for letting me be part of your build.

[kwhizz]

Absolutely &quot;AWSUM&quot;!!!!!!!!

[bergy]

Thanks for sharing this resto Jason - great work!

[Nova Jed]

Keep the pictures and great work coming Jason! Looking absolutely awsome! Wish I had something that cool to restore!

[m22mike]

Don't forget that sway bar.. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

[WILMASBOYL78]

The best stuff comes from &quot;Nu-Yawk&quot; <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

Jason does really nice work <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif

wilma

[jasonL78]

I should have my motor this weekend. The engine builder just has to assemble the top end. As you can see in the pictures the CE block had no paint on it. Just the blue paint marking on each side. I told him I wanted to paint the motor. Should I try to duplicated the CE replacement motor by painting the block cast grey with blue marking and everything else painted chevy orange? Or should I just paint everything orange. What would you guys do?

From the original owner of the car the motor failed when he left the dealership, just a couple miles down the road the motor locked up. That is a bad day for sure.


http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/PIC_1289.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/PIC_1299.jpg

[PxTx]

Kind of interesting you ask about paint as it was a topic of conversation a few times out in Chicago. I'm sure my pop will chime in, but basically we were discussing how most of the CE waranty jobs had the block come in without paint. My dad tried to get the parts counter guys to charge out a can or two of orange paint. He said the majority of the motors done out of the delaership were without paint.

I'm actually very surprized the fellow accepted the replacment motor without paint since the car was basically new and I'm sure the engine compartment didn't quite look new after the unpainted motor went in.

The question I see is about how you want to represent the car. If the CE is going to be a focal point or Day 2 theme, then unpainted would get the nod. I would have reservations that although unique, this may not add any value to the car. As I mentioned, my Dad did warranty jobs AND painted the motors, so it could be done either way.

Have you seen ny other cars with restorations involving CE warranty motors that have gone the unpainted (look) route?

The other side is going more towards the virgin factory build, simply using the CE motor. Motor would be painted and car would looks as new. I think this is the way most people treat the CE motors during restoration.

I say paint it.

[Mayhem]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Nova Jed</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Jason, last year I put my springs in with the internal spring compressor and used a lot of blue painters tape on the subframe, springs, and compressor arms. Worked out pretty well. I just had to peel the compressed tape off the shock mount hole in the top of the subframe after the upper and lower control arms were bolted to the spindle. Cheap insurance! Hope this helps? </div></div>

Maybe a couple layers of blue tape, followed by several layers of duct tape, and covered with more blue tape.
This gives it extra padding and thickness without further tape stick-um.
Just a thought.

[kwhizz]

Jason.......Paint it...........

[jasonL78]

Actually I have never seen this done with a CE warranty block. All the ones I have seen have been painted. This was just another detail I was thinking about. I actually think it would be a cool conversation topic. I know it is a warranty replacement block and I will never represent it as the original motor. (Not that I can with the CE stamp)

This is what I was thinking about doing; Paint the heads, intake, timing chain cover, and oil pan all orange but not paint all the bolt heads (like someone removed them when the block was replaced) then paint the block cast grey with blue the markings. It is an AC car so once all the AC parts are installed it will hardly be noticed. I was just trying to find out if it has ever been done and what the consensus is on doing it?

As far as my focal point of the car I am trying to restore the car back to original to some extent but more the way I found it. The car did have headers and I am still up in the air if they are going back onto the car. I have all the smog parts if I choose to go that route. What I was thinking about doing is install the headers dual exhaust and mount the smog pump and brackets but that is it. Just to give it that day 2 look.

It does make since that most of these CE motors where never painted by the mechanics. If they where working on flat rate (if they had that back then) time would be money. From the dealerships point of view, they have a customer that is most likely a little upset and would want there new car back as quick as possible?


So far we have 2 for paint it? Anyone else?

[budnate]

sad but true when I was at the dealer in the 80's nothing was painted, it went out the door how ever it came out of the box.

B.

[Mr.Nickey Nova]

Jason you are doing such a great job with this restoration,i say paint the engine also.

[RPOLS3]

Paint it.

[kwhizz]

Depends at what point in History you want the car to represent......I say as Delivered.........Paint it!!

[jasonL78]

Thanks for the responses everyone. I will be painting the motor this weekend.

jason

[Plowman]

When I did CE blocks at the dealership,the warranty R.O. would bounce if a can of paint was charged out on it. That's why the parts counter guys would not do it. I would go to the Use Car detail area and if I found a can of paint,I would paint the CE block. If the customer would ask,they were told that GM Warranty does not pay for paint. That was it. *Paul

[jasonL78]

Almost have the subframe all done. I just have to rebuild my steering box.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/005-2.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/004-1.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/003-2.jpg

I also painted the L79 and started bolting everyhting back onto the motor



http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/007-2.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/006-2.jpg

[WILMASBOYL78]

Very Nice.. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

wilma

[Plowman]

I like it,looking good. *Paul

[Xplantdad]

Looks really good Jason! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/headbang.gif

[Schonyenko2]

Very nice.

[kwhizz]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Schonyenko2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Very nice. </div></div>

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a251/kwhizz/Kenyan/Kenyan%20Pics/schoney.jpg

[day2killa]

now thats clean

[jasonL78]

Ok looking for a little help from the forum. I was just going to bolt my AC bracket on the intake the other night and I realized I never seen this bracket with the idler pulley on it. The L79 is a manual transmission car so it would have smog for 1968 correct? I only know of one other 1968 SB nova with AC and it is an automatic car. So GM installed no smog on the automatic. Correct?
This is my concern the 68 automatic car has a 2 groove water pump pulley and 2 a groove crank pulley. My car still had its original 2 groove crank pulley, AC compressor, AC brackets, but not the correct water pump pulley. I was assuming I would need a 2 groove water pump pulley for an AC car. But now I am stumped with the smog pump, AC compressor, and this idler pulley. Does anyone have a picture of a 1968 GM car that has a manual transmission with AC and smog? Or even a belt diagram for the 1968 GM motors?
My concern is will I need a 3 groove water pump pulley and if so what is the part number.

Thanks Jason

This is the idler pulley I am referring to:


http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/1968NovaL-79EngineHR.jpg

[kwhizz]

Wow!! Good question....... <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/hmmm.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/hmmm.gif

[jasonL78]

Wow did I stump the board? These are the part numbers I cam up with for a 3 groove water pump pulley for 1967 and 1968, I think they are SB part numbers. They are 1967-3906657 DP and 1968-3908920 DQ.
This was the motor I found on e-bay out of a 68 L79 corvette but it doesn't have AC. As you can see it has the 3 groove pulley.I will get some more pictures of the bracket this weekend bolted back onto the motor. The idler pulley is what has got me stumped? In my picture I posted of my motor it looks like the idler pulley is behind the AC compressor. So it must be part of the smog?

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/L79motore-bay.png

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/l79motorebay2.png

[jasonL78]

The e-bay ad said this was a 68 motor but I see ram manifolds with smog. I thought those were 66-67??????

[jasonL78]

I think I found it. But I dont see the idler pulley. Looks like I will need to talk with the original owner.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/aim1.png

[jasonL78]

Been busy! Motor and transmission installed into the subframe.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/001-4.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/003-3.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/004-2.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/006-3.jpg

I tried to duplicate the subframe markings I found.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/002-1.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/005-3.jpg

Installed the shifter and the NOS 3 speed reverse switch.
It sure was nice to put it through the gears!

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/007-3.jpg

[jasonL78]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jasonL78</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I think I found it. But I dont see the idler pulley. Looks like I will need to talk with the original owner. </div></div>

Well as most of you know this idler pulley was not original to the car. But when it was installed it lined up with the 2nd groove on the water pump and crank pulley for the ac belt. So to me it looked correct. It wasn't until I installed the smog pump I realized the idler was wrong and was installed into the smog pump bolt hole. I have no idea why? So I have located the correct 3 groove AC water pump pulley and should have the correct AC smog pulley this week. I still need the correct diverter valve and bracket for the back of the smog pump. I don't know the part numbers I need? If someone has the correct diverter valve I need I think it is the FG diverter valve and correct bracket please PM me.

Thanks Jason

[MosportGreen66]

Good god Jason... well done!

[kwhizz]

<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

[300deluxeL79]

very nice! love the L79 cars <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif
EP on the frame rail for the original engine suffix

[Xplantdad]

Is the L-I for Long Island? <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/wink.gif

[day2killa]

is this build being done on Long Island?

[MosportGreen66]

I think Jason is way upstate near Saratoga.

[jasonL78]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 69belair</div><div class="ubbcode-body">very nice! love the L79 cars <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif
EP on the frame rail for the original engine suffix </div></div>


Well that is what I thought when I first seen the marking but it clearly didn't have the bottom line for the &quot;E&quot; Looks more like an S maybe SP for special performance? So that is what I made it. On the passenger frame rail I found what looks like
L-I_ Not sure what this one means? Just trying to duplicate what I found.


http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/007.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/005-3.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/001.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/002-1.jpg

[jasonL78]

I am located in upstate NY just outside of Albany NY. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif

[Xplantdad]

Jason...I was joking with you <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/smile.gif


Looks great!

[jasonL78]

I know Bruce no hard feeling.

[x77-69z28]

could that last one be L-7? as in L-79? cool car, great resto

[300deluxeL79]

any updates jason? can't wait to see it in paint. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/drool.gif

[jasonL78]

Dave I&quot;ve been really busy at work. 10 hour days 6-7 days a week. So my time has been limited. I have the inside of the car ready for paint. I am going to epoxy prime the floors black then duplicate the factory fathum blue over spray. Hopefully this will happen this weekend. The underside of the roof is all finished with new sound deadner. Once I get the floors painted I will bolt the sheetmetal on the car and start blocking the car out. No rush on my end but I am shooting to paint it sometime in April. But it all depends on work my schedule.

[jasonL78]

Well I was thinking about making another topic on this but just figured I would do it here. Has anyone ever noticed the build week stamping through out the body of your car. I heard about this just before my restoration started. I was amazed how many spots on the car I found these stamps. I think they are build week stamps. Some people say no. This is what I have found so far. This car is an 06B car so the 20, 21 ,22,23 week stampings all line up with the build date of the body. I also found X22 on each inner door frame and H23 stamped in the rear floor pan under the rear seat but I don't have any pictures yet of these two spots.
Most of these stampings you really can't see until the paint is removed but some are stamped deeper than others and just stand out. I just thought I would share what I have found with others. I think it is very interesting.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/L79003.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/L79004.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/L79005.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/L79006.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/022-1.jpg

I also found X22 stamped on all four floor drain plugs. I went to my stash and found some drain plugs removed from an 02B car They had X4 stamped on them. Very interesting.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/029.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/028.jpg

[Xplantdad]

Neat stuff Jason...thanks for sharing!

[jasonL78]

Finally had some time the last 2 nights to work on the car. I painted the floors with black epoxy primer last night. Tonight I tried to duplicate the factory over spray. I love Fathum Blue it is such a nice color. So now its time to bolt some sheetmetal on and start block sanding.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/023.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/011-2.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/026-1.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/003-6.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/019-2.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/021.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/004-4.jpg

[napa68]

Really some nice work! Good to see you resist the temptation of a 4 speed.

Tim

[BJCHEV396]

Great work!!

[68COPO]

REAL NICE Jason!!
Rick

[kwhizz]

<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/worship.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/worship.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/worship.gif

[Nova Jed]

Looking awsome Jason! I can't wait until it's all painted.

[bergy]

nice work Jason - solid resto!

[jasonL78]

I have been working on the car but things are just going slow, which is fine I don’t want to rush the project. I took today off from work to enjoy the nice spring weather. It was 80 today here in upstate NY. I spent the day blocking the car out for the first time. I was very happy with my results. I had enough time to apply 2 more coats of primer for the second round of blocking. Now it’s time to get my doors and fenders back onto the car for initial panel alignment. I am still shooting for April to have color.

Jason

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/001-6.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/003-7.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/004-5.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/002-3.jpg

[Xplantdad]

Wow! Looks great Jason! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/headbang.gif

[Nova Jed]

Take your time! Your car is going to look sweet!

[jasonL78]

Spent all day blocking and blocking and blocking……LOL! I have the passenger side real close. Just one more side! Its tuff being a one man show, so much time is lost on all the small details.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/004-6.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/005-6.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/006-6.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/007-5.jpg

[Nova Jed]

Looking Great Jason! Being a one man show is very tough, but it looks like you love it.

[Mr.Nickey Nova]

Something to be proud of when you get it done.Doing a great job Jason....

[jasonL78]

Driver side is primed! So all the body work is just about completed, I just have to block the car out again to see if I find anymore small imperfections. Almost time for some color!
Jason
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/007-6.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/006-7.jpg

[brent396]

Jason Looking Good <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif

[Xplantdad]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: brent396</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Jason Looking Good <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif </div></div>


Times two!

[kwhizz]

<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/worship.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/worship.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/worship.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/worship.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/worship.gif

[MosportGreen66]

Jason, that work is fantastic... Way to go man!

[Postsedan]

<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

Dan

[Alss]

Awesome job!!..they look great in prmer..ready for paint..almost antiseptic clean <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/laugh.gif

Jason a question..looks like you have a auto twirler rottisierre..how did you mount the fenders for fittment?..I have the same rottisierre and am looking for ideas!..did you use the rad suport as well?..how about some pics of that area?..thanks

keep up the great work!! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

[jasonL78]

Albert,
I am not sure if my rotisserie is an auto twirler I bought it used? But like you said it looks like one. At first I wasn’t sure if I was going to be able to mount the fenders because of the front braces on the rotisserie. But they fell exactly where the wheels would be. Obviously with the fenders mounted you are limited to how far you can rotate the car. But it was enough that I could block sand the rockers comfortably without bending over to far. If you have restored a car without a rotisserie and then you get one for the next project I will guarantee you will never go back without it. They are great and well worth the money. I don’t know how many times I said to myself I should have bought one of these 3 projects ago.

So to answer your question I used the core support to hold the fenders in place. I used all four fender mounting bolts in the rear of the fender to get the fender all aligned with the door. Then I bolted the core support to hold the front of the fenders in place 2 bolts on each side. The only thing I have to do before I dis-assembly is test fit the hood. I am going to put the car on the lift and take the car off the rotisserie for this. But I don’t think I am going to have an alignment problem but better safe than sorry later. I will shoot some pictures tomorrow for you Albert.

Someone informed me that a lot of people have a hard time aligning the fenders up on Camaros and Novas because of the uni-body. Actually the front fenders are part of the front support structure. A tip for anyone trying to align your fenders with the sub-frame mounted to the car. I had a hard time in the past getting my fender to door gaps to be equal. Most of the time the top was to tight and bottom gap was way out. This is due to the sub-frame sagging to the back of the car. The easiest way to solve this problem is take the weight off the sub-frame by lifting around the rocker and putting a jack stand under it to hold the weight of the body. It will save you a ton of time aligning your fenders. It really works.

I blocked the car out for the second time yesterday, both sides look great! Just a couple of small imperfections, I think I had 4 on the passenger side and three on the driver’s side. Not bad for a non-body guy. (LOL) So two more coats of primer then I feel the car will be ready for the final finish sand with 600.

But not to knock what Albert said that the cars look great with new primer because they do. It’s all the time spent blocking the car out IMHO that makes a paint job pop. I could have easily final sanded the car with the second coat of primer but I may have never found those 7 Imperfections. I feel its time well spent.

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

Car looks great Jason.

How do you plan to install the body side molding mounting pins on the finished panels? I need to do the same on our '69!

[Alss]

cool stuff..thanks

[jasonL78]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Car looks great Jason.

How do you plan to install the body side molding mounting pins on the finished panels? I need to do the same on our '69! </div></div>

Well Marlin, I have given this a lot of thought and the quarters &amp; doors used the factory weld on pins. The fenders where bolted on with clips. I was going to use a friend’s gun to install the factory pins but it would almost be impossible to do with the body work and blocking that needed to be done. I think it would also be impossible to buff the car out after color sanding. I even left the pins on the doors until last week. So by using the 2 factory holes on the door I am going to run a string along the side of the car to lay out the body trim. At the back of the quarters another hole will need to be made because the last clip for the quarter panel trim is bolted through the quarter panel. This should give me a straight line to follow.
So after the car is painted I plan on using the original quarters another set of original fenders with factory holes to measure and lay out my pins and holes. Most likely running some 3m tape down the side of the car and snapping a line is what I was thinking??? I plan on using these small stainless steel pin screws. They look just like the original pins but have a Philips head screw. You drill a small pilot hole and screw the pin screws in. They are only ½ inch long. I have used them before and they work great. Just a little lock tight and they won’t go anywhere. I bought a box of 45 pins at my local auto body paint store for 4.00 dollars. They look just like the originals but with a Philips screw face.
The company’s name is J&amp;T fastener out of Syracuse NY. I took a picture of the front of the catalog and circled the two styles of pins they sell. I bought all my new hardware from this company and have saved a lot of money by doing it. The only problem is you have to buy bolts in large quantities like 25 3/8 x 1” bolts for the inner fender wells. But it still pays off.

Hope this helps Marlin? Again I will take some pictures when I am laying out the body side trim.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/001-7.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/002-4.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/003-8.jpg

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

I understand - it is quite the predicament. I was going to take the car to the local body shop and have the pins spot welded on right before the last coat of K36, and then struggle through the final sanding and then cutting/buffing. Using the screws was plan 'B', but I'm concerned about seeing them protrude into the trunk. Any plans to address that - or will you simply clip them off the backside?

[jasonL78]

Once the lock tight is dry I plan on trying to remove the remaining threads inside the trunk?

[Alss]

I have used those skrew in pins before...they worked pretty good..alot of measuring...predrill..a little sealer..good to go.the ones I had were very short..I bet a touch with a grinder and they would be gone

[JRSully]

A little insight into the body side mldg pins, When Wayne Bushey was doing mine, we wanted as close to a factory look as possible and looked at some original cars and &quot;screwed pin&quot; cars for reference. On the factory cars, there is a &quot;very slight dip&quot; at almost every welded stud, you have to look very hard, but they are there, it is an ever so slight weld dip/warp that was there from the factory. We went with welded stud/factory look, came out great IMO

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

How did Wayne replace the pins - I think he used a small stud welder right?

[WILMASBOYL78]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JRSully</div><div class="ubbcode-body">A little insight into the body side mldg pins, When Wayne Bushey was doing mine, we wanted as close to a factory look as possible and looked at some original cars and &quot;screwed pin&quot; cars for reference. On the factory cars, there is a &quot;very slight dip&quot; at almost every welded stud, you have to look very hard, but they are there, it is an ever so slight weld dip/warp that was there from the factory. We went with welded stud/factory look, came out great IMO </div></div>

No rental charge for the original car measurements <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/rolleyes.gif

[Schonyenko2]

The stud welders work well, but need bare metal. AU VEE CO also makes the shouldered pins.

[JRSully]

M- Yes, Wayne used a stud welder I believe. I didn't want to get involved with screws (although they work well) and cutting off the exposed shanks in the trunk, refinishing etc. Just my preference, both methods work fine

[JRSully]

Schoney, your PM box is full, run the vacuum through it

[Schonyenko2]

Try now.

[jasonL78]

I like showing these pictures. Most people don't show these very important steps before paint. The doors and fenders are all ready for paint. Blocked down with 600 grit. We will have some fathum blue getting sprayed in NY this weekend!!

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/006-8.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/008-1.jpg

[300deluxeL79]

looks arrow straight jason! can't wait to see the color sprayed on. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

[black69]

this thread was an interesting fun read. I met a guy last yr, that showed me a 68 L79 in the corner of his storage and I obviously did not pay enough attention to it. Rusted pretty bad, but engine compartment looked never touched. He said it was a rare car (now I understand why). Now, it makes sense to atleast get some underhood shots, if it could help anyone. The guy that has it 'never' sells anything. I think it was a 4spd.

great thread. great car.

[Nova Jed]

I can't wait to see color shots!

Just to reitterate the stud technique. It is very tough to get those pins laser straight. I was happy with my end results and I didn't seem to have any problems wet sanding and buffing the car. There is quite a bit of a technique doing it so that you don't get that dimple in the metal. JM 2c.

[jasonL78]

3 coats of Base
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/001-8.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/002-5.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/003-9.jpg


3 coats of concept clear!
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/006-9.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/007-7.jpg[/IMG
[img]http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/008-2.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/009-2.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/010-1.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/011-4.jpg

[Nova Jed]

WOW! Looks awsome!

[Xplantdad]

Looks great!

[Salvatore]

Man that looks great! What a nice color.

[jasonL78]

I painted the dash and package tray this weekend. The body is next!
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/006-10.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/005-8.jpg

I also color sanded the trunk lid. Wow this color really pops!
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/002-6.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/001-9.jpg

[Nova Jed]

Looking awsome! The color is beautiful!

[WILMASBOYL78]

Very nice...good job!!

Tom

[napa68]

<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/drool.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/drool.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/drool.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/drool.gif

[Xplantdad]

Jason...great job! It's gonna be a beauty!!

[Plowman]

Looking good and very cool.

[SS427]

Looking great Jason!

[Schonyenko2]

Wow, an un cut package try area that isn't butchered for speakers. That's rare. Nice job. She's lookin good.

[jasonL78]

Tomorrow is the big day. I took the day off to paint the body of the car. I can't wait to get this done but I don't want to rush it either. Those who have restored and painted there own cars know exactly what I am talking about. Pictures to follow.

Jason

[Xplantdad]

Can't wait to see it Jason!

[jasonL78]

Few! It’s painted…. LOL! The base coat came out real nice almost perfect.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/001-10.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/002-7.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/003-11.jpg

3 coats of clear…. I ended up with 2 small runs and a small sag in the clear. Nothing a little color sanding won’t resolve.
It’s like a big weight off my chest now that the body is painted.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/014-2.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/016-2.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/017-2.jpg

Its amazing how much the fathom blue changed the look of this third gen nova.

[jasonL78]

Glad the site is back up.

Jason

[jasonL78]

Well I started with the bad side first. This was the side I got a run/sag down the sail panel. So everyone I talked with said to use a razor blade and scrape the sag flat. Boy I just couldn’t bring myself to do that. So I went to U tube and spent a couple of hours looking at videos on how to remove a run or sag in the clear coat. What I ended up doing was taking some glazing putty and put a thin coat on each side of the run. This gave me enough area to sand the top of the sag or run flat. I started with 600 until all the glazing putty was gone. Then I went to 1000 then to 1500 and finished with 2000. I can’t even tell I had a run in the sail panel. It worked real well. My auto body supply store never even heard of this before. I actually showed them it on u tube and they were shocked someone was putting glazing putty on fresh clear. The internet is such an important tool we have!
This is the video that I watched and thought I would share with everyone. I blocked my sag out, I didn’t use a DA.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-WnI6lLIq9I

I still have to color sand the driver’s side rocker and lower part of the quarter. But over all I am very very happy with the end results.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/002-8.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/004-9.jpg

[67 Nova Boy]

Jason,
What a great job you are doing!! That video sure is helpful! Keep the picks on your progress ongoing for us to learn.

Dave
67 Nova Boy

[Xplantdad]

Beautiful....just beautiful!

[Nova Jed]

Oh, that Nova will be awsome when it's finished! Looking so good Jason. I am getting jealous!

[Tommy]

Whats the latest Jason?


Tommy <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/3gears.gif

[Schonyenko2]

Looks very nice. Next time try wrapping the sand paper around about half of a good flat pnt stir stick, and water sand the top of the run until it's flat. Works well.

[jasonL78]

Schoney I used that trick also on a single run I had. It worked very well.

Tommy,
I am working on detailing my leaf springs. Then I am going to get the rearend in the car so I can paint the fire wall. Then hopefully get the subframe installed. But the last few weeks I have been busy with softball/baseball games with my kids. We also finally got a nice stretch of weather in the northeast so my outside chores, kids and work have consummed most of my time.

I would love to have the car finished for this summer but my goal is to have it running by this fall and finish the car over the winter. You just can't rush these projects.

[jasonL78]

I got the rear end installed today and painted the firewall. The sub-frame will be installed tomorrow.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/001-11.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/002-9.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/003-12.jpg

[Xplantdad]

Looks really nice Jason!

[Nova Jed]

Looking GREAT! I like how you have White lines instead of Red.

Jason, was your rear painted black originally? Some of the rears that I have cleaned up had no remnants of black paint at all. I have no idea if its because they were that used or they were never painted? Any insight on what you have found would help me out.

Jed

[Salvatore]

A great color!

[jasonL78]

We are rolling! I can't wait to get it outside tomorrow in the outside light!
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/Novamotor.png

Jed this car was an original white wall car. I have the original spare that was in the car. As for the rear end mine had some black paint on it but not much. Most likely the axle tubes where painted black and the center section was left unpainted. Actually the whole bottom side of this car I feel had no black paint. But it did have a lot of blue over spray. I just painted it all black to make it easier and not have any surface rust issues down the road.

[jasonL78]

Ok I need a little help. My original master cylinder that was in the car could not be rebuilt. Well that is what the shop told me that I sent it to. They gave me a replacement but it was the 69 master cylinder, so I sold that one. I found the correct 68 master cylinder and had that one rebuilt. Well when I went to install the master cylinder on my original booster it wouldn’t go on all the way? Almost like it was bottoming out inside the master cylinder. I remember when I bought an aftermarket booster it came with a long and short rod. So I checked another 68 power brake booster I have and it also had the long booster rod. So I got out the ruler and measured when the piston is pushed in and I measure 1 5/8” stroke on the master cylinder piston. Then I measure the rod sticking out of the booster and sure enough it is bottoming out the piston.
So this is my question, with the smaller rod put into the booster only about ¼ “sticks out. Is it safe to say I need the short rod? When they rebuild the master cylinder can they change what size rod the master cylinder uses? Not sure why I would need to change my rod?
Here is a picture of the 2 rods the gold one is my original restored and the silver one is the shorter one. My original measures 4” and the shorter one measure 2.5”.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/mastercylinderrod.png

[William]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jasonL78</div><div class="ubbcode-body">We are rolling! As for the rear end mine had some black paint on it but not much. Most likely the axle tubes where painted black and the center section was left unpainted. </div></div>

John Z from our site [CRG] has stated that axles were completely painted after assembly at the Chevy Gear &amp; Axle plant. The brake lines were not installed at that time but the pb cables were. The pinion yoke was masked with a sleeve. Drums were also painted. There are many undercarriage photos in vintage magazines for those needing proof.

With no surface prep or primer the paint didn't adhere well. Don't expect to find much of it 43 years later.

[jasonL78]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jasonL78</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ok I need a little help. My original master cylinder that was in the car could not be rebuilt. Well that is what the shop told me that I sent it to. They gave me a replacement but it was the 69 master cylinder, so I sold that one. I found the correct 68 master cylinder and had that one rebuilt. Well when I went to install the master cylinder on my original booster it wouldn’t go on all the way? Almost like it was bottoming out inside the master cylinder. I remember when I bought an aftermarket booster it came with a long and short rod. So I checked another 68 power brake booster I have and it also had the long booster rod. So I got out the ruler and measured when the piston is pushed in and I measure 1 5/8” stroke on the master cylinder piston. Then I measure the rod sticking out of the booster and sure enough it is bottoming out the piston.
So this is my question, with the smaller rod put into the booster only about ¼ “sticks out. Is it safe to say I need the short rod? When they rebuild the master cylinder can they change what size rod the master cylinder uses? Not sure why I would need to change my rod?
Here is a picture of the 2 rods the gold one is my original restored and the silver one is the shorter one. My original measures 4” and the shorter one measure 2.5”.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/mastercylinderrod.png

</div></div>


I figured my problem out with the master cylinder. When I had my master cylinder rebuilt they must have changed the piston to except the short rod that goes into the power brake booster. I had an old reproduction master cylinder that uses the long rod. You can see the differnece in the pistons in the picture.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/Nova15.png

[jasonL78]

When we moved the car over to the other work bay I didn’t have the camera with me. But this shows the car a little better.


http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/Nova13.png

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/nova12.png

[Mr.Nickey Nova]

Nice work Jason!!

[jasonL78]

Anyone have any luck with high temp paint on headers. Well I am going to give it a try. I painted the passenger side header tonight. I used the VHT high temp white paint over high temp VHT primer. I think they will really look good in the engine bay with yellow accell plug wires. What do you guys think?

Jason
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/header-1.png

[Donnie]

lookin real nice!
I might get to this point by Sept.

[Nova Jed]

I just got my headers back from being ceramic coated white. ( Second attemp by the coater I might add) But they look great. Jason, they will look awsome in the engine bay. I picked up some Mallory 7mm Super Stock blue wires for mine. Can't wait to see it all done. You're Nova will be awsome!

[jasonL78]

Jed I didnt know they had ceramic coating in white?? Where did you have yours done. If you don't mind me asking what did it set you back.

Jason

[Nova Jed]

A place called Dyno Port, but another member had pointed me to a place called Swain Tech Coatings in NY. I got the email a little too late and jad sent them to Dyno Port instead. Both are in NY.

Email sent.

[jasonL78]

Got the headers installed last night.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/header3.png

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/header2.png

[olredalert]

----I see a smog pump but I dont see any bungs on the headers......Bill S

[jasonL78]

Yes that is correct Bill.
I wanted to have it as close to original but with a little day 2 look. So I decided go with headers,accel wires, electronic distributor and a flow master exhaust. Leaving the smog pump on the car as if someone just unhooked the tubes but never removed the air pump. I have the correct exhaust manifolds &amp; tubes incase I ever want to go for the stock look.

[jasonL78]

I have been picking at the l79 little by little. I finally got the doors buffed out; the bright trim installed and put the doors back on the car. It is so close but so far away. My son made all stars for little league then pop warner football so my summer is shot. I am in no rush to get the car done but I really want to drive this L79. I can’t wait for that!

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/untitled-1.png

One detail I have seen most people over look is the inner door frames are painted interior color. It’s hard to make out in the picture but my interior is black so I painted them black the same color as the dash. I know this is a done on 68 nova’s not real sure if it is done on other years or other GM models.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/Doorframe.png

The kids got me a perfect gift for father’s day. I love it!
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/fatherday2012.png

[Xplantdad]

Wow...beautiful Jason....It looks great! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif

[Nova Jed]

Jason, I will confirm your findings about the door frames. I have seen many a Nova that have the frames painted interior color. It seems that the earlier Novas got the paint and some didn't. My 71 had the frames painted black and my 69 had the same exterior color as the interior, but it was an eggshell opposed to a gloss, which leads me to believe that it was painted interior color.

Jed

[Tommy]

Jason, my black 68 has a blue interior and the inner door frames and window frames are blue. Your Nova is really looking nice !!


Tommy <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/3gears.gif

[Nova Jed]

Any updates?

[jasonL78]

Jed,
Sorry to say not much has been done. With only one day a week lately my progress has been slow. It’s all the small things that seem to consume all your time. I spent 6 hours on Sunday cleaning up my inner quarter window tracks and installing the exterior quarter window trim on both sides. Man the day just flew by. I have my quarter windows all cleaned up and ready to go into the car I just have to attach the guide to the end of each quarter window. Then onto the vent window assembly, rebuilding and installing them. I have all my brake and fuel lines in place. Actually to fire the car up all I need to do is install the distributor and exhaust. But I can’t do that until I get both fenders back onto the car. I have my Ac suit case at vintage air in FL they are checking everything out to make sure I am not going to have any problems. Once I get the suit case back and installed I can mount both front fenders. Then check my front bumper alignment to see if the sub frame needs any tweaking left to right. Once that is all set I will be able to install the exhaust. Hopefully by then I will have my dash all back together. We will see.
I keep bolting parts on slowly. I did just get an order back from the chrome shop on Friday. I had the original door handles vent window handles and front foil badge bezels re-chromed. Its nice knowing original parts are going to fit when you go to bolt them back on. I was able to re-use all my original bright trim around the door and quarter windows. I just de-anodized them and buffed the aluminum back to a nice shine. They came out real nice. I can’t wait to see the body side moldings on the car. In due time it will all come together.

Jason

[jasonL78]

I finished up the driver side glass and trim tonight. Very time consuming restoring all these pieces you will never see.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/glassl79.png


Accell wires installed
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/7-6-12-1.png

[Nova Jed]

Its all about the little details Jason. That's what makes a restoration a restoration. Good job! Looking great!

[jasonL78]

I am bringing my drive shaft to work tomorrow to blast it in our big blast cabinet. I knew I have seen the drive shaft stripes on other restorations so I figured I would look on mine. Sure enough I found them 14 inches from the back. Looks like three orange stripes? Does anyone know why these stripes are on the drive shafts??? I am going to duplicate these stripes are all three suposed to be orange??



Jason

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/jasonchale/driveshaftstripes.png

[Nova Jed]

Why does the first one look yellow to me?