Gramma's Car: the new project!

[earntaz]

Sure is pretty Eric ...

[SuperNovaSS]

No problem with the cc difference. Just bore one size .030 an the other side .060.


Jason

[njsteve]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SuperNovaSS</div><div class="ubbcode-body">No problem with the cc difference. Just bore one size .030 an the other side .060.


Jason </div></div>

That would go great with a swapped main cap or two! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif

[njsteve]

I was getting an old pair of lifters ready to use for degreeing the cam: popping the clip and taking out the internal spring and replacing it with a solid washer, Of course I proceeded to slip with the screw driver and jam it halfway through my finger. OUCH!

It seems that the mechanical dieties always require some type of blood scarifice for every engine I have ever assembled. This one was no different. I proceeded to bleed all over the short block looking for a rag to wrap my finger with...

The worst one was the time I tried to install an oil pick up into a smallblock Chevy oil pump. I slipped the open end wrench over the pick up flange and took aim with a 32 oz. ball pean hammer. I swung. Perfect on-target hit - right onto my thumb nail. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/eek.gif

[70 Forest Green Zee]

Eric.....you are truly a craftsman in every sense of the word! Outstanding job!!

[cook_dw]

I would really like to pick your brain on how your process of finishing the carb body.. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif

Nice work.. Not many realize the excellence of your plating abilities..

[njsteve]

Here's a question for you camshaft gurus out there:

We started the process of degreeing the camshaft and have come up with some numbers that don't seem to match the tech card on the Summit 2802.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/10/full-1359-32840-camcard.jpg


Intake cam timing @.050 is supposed to open at 3 BTDC with intake centerline of 109 degrees

What we got @.050 was: intake opens at 1 degree BTDC with intake centerline of 110.5 degrees.


http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/10/full-1359-32842-img_1525.jpg



Exhaust cam timing @.050 is supposed to open at 56 degrees BBDC with exhaust centerline of 119 degrees

What we got @.050 was: exhaust opens at 54.5 degrees BBDC with exhaust centerline of 116 degrees

These results were the average of 3 tests.= for each set. I used two solid lifters.

So I tried using the three position crank sprocket at the advanced position (it has a &quot;+4&quot; stamped there) and it moved the intake opening to 9 degrees BTDC from 1 degree. Now, instead of being 2 degrees retarded from the 3 degree spec, it is now 8 degrees from its original position (or 6 degrees advanced from the 3 degree BTDC spec).

So I assume that is way too far in the other direction for an adjustment. I guess I have to buy another double roller set with a 9 position keyway and try to adjust from there. Cloyes makes a nice one that is around $95 from Summit.

I am not a math whiz so I am guessing that a 4 degree crank sprocket advance position actually moves the cam 8 degrees due to the fact that the crankshaft rotates twice for every single rotation of the cam?

What about an offset cam sprocket woodruff key? The smallest increment they sell is 2 degrees (Mr. Gasket). Here is my question: will a 2 degree cam key move my final dial reading two degrees to the preferred 3 degree spec or will it add 4 and make it 5 degrees total?

Help me Obewan Kenobee, You're my only hope...


http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/10/full-1359-32843-img_1523.jpg

[VintageMusclecar]

Welcome to the wonderful world of mass produced parts. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/frown.gif

Just outt'a curiosity, what brand is your existing timing set?

Assuming your 1st attempt was straight up?--of so, I'd save yourself a lot of unnecessary aggravation and install it there. It's basically within 2° of spec. With the 3.42 screw in the back, running the cam a couple degrees late won't hurt a thing, plus it'll help ward off spark rattle.

[cook_dw]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: VintageMusclecar</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Welcome to the wonderful world of mass produced parts. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/frown.gif

Just outt'a curiosity, what brand is your existing timing set?

Assuming your 1st attempt was straight up?--of so, I'd save yourself a lot of unnecessary aggravation and install it there. It's basically within 2° of spec. With the 3.42 screw in the back, running the cam a couple degrees late won't hurt a thing, plus it'll help ward off spark rattle. </div></div>


I agree.

[njsteve]

I installed a &quot;2 degree&quot; Mr Gasket offset cam key... Now it is reading 5 degrees BTDC. So that answers my question as to whether you double the advertised degree of the cam offset key or crank sprocket keyway. Either way, the end result is doubled.

Grrrrr. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/mad.gif

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

This is the first time I have see the value of degreeing a cam during installation.

Bummer that the part is not right on specs, but so important to know now!!

Ryan

[njsteve]

Same here. All these decades I always just threw the cam in and assumed it would be right. Rather enlightening to see what I have been missing all these years.

Next episode: What actually goes into the hotdogs you eat. Stay tuned! If you dare! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/naughty.gif

[njsteve]

I just installed an old double roller setup from a prior engine and it came back with 1 degree BTDC when installed straight up. So it looks like it is the cam that might be slightly off since I got the exact same result with another timing set.

[njsteve]

I spoke with the tech people at Cloyes and the 9-3512X9 timing set I ordered from Summit will hopefully do the trick. The nine-position gear has a &quot;+2&quot; positon that is 1/4 the distance from 0 that the &quot;+4&quot; position is on my old gear.

On the Cloyes gear, that &quot;+4&quot; position that is on my old gear is actually stamped as &quot;+8&quot;. He indicated that is how their gears are stamped: with the actual correction factor, so the final result will be two degrees not four.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/10/full-1359-32889-img_1537a.jpg



Fingers crossed...waiting on the UPS guy now.

[njsteve]

Well, here's today's lesson in &quot;You Get What You Pay For&quot;.

The Cloyes true roller set arrived today. Slipped it on in the &quot;+2&quot; position and voila! Perfect 3 degrees BTDC and 109 degrees intake centerline to match the cam card. I was all giddy - I just kept repeating the calculations and spinning the engine and doing it again and again just to make sure I was not hallucinating. I guess there's a reason they charge $100 for the timing set!

Now we can finally get to buttoning up this monstrosity.


http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/10/full-1359-32942-img_1538.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/10/full-1359-32943-img_1540.jpg

[earntaz]

Love it when a plan comes together ...

[cook_dw]

I failed to mention it previously but you hit the nail on the head. Pay the extra money for a timing set. The cheaper ones will stretch within minutes of running. Most of the time it wont matter but when building a precision engine every little thing matters.. Glad the math is working out like it should. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif

[VintageMusclecar]

I went through the exact same scenario with my 302.

[njsteve]

All buttoned up and ready to go back in!. One of the members at the PY site donated an old set of 1970 chrome valve covers to the project. I cleaned them up and they really woke up the snazzi-ness factor of the engine.

(Ignore the rusty exhaust manifolds. Hopefully any paint on them will burn off in the first minute or two, and I am aiming toward getting some repro D-port Ramair manifolds and a new exhaust system this Winter).

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/10/full-1359-33051-img_1548.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/10/full-1359-33052-img_1549.jpg

[njsteve]

Well, it's time to stop for the night. Got everything installed. Still need to tighten the trans and converter bolts, install starter, radiator, fan, PS pump, etc. Got a lot done this afternoon.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/10/full-1359-33064-img_1550.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/10/full-1359-33065-img_1551.jpg

[earntaz]

Looks like it belongs there -- good job ... TAZ

[cook_dw]

Nice work!! Looks great.

[SS427]

Looks great.

[njsteve]

I had to wait til the boy got home from school to start the engine. I spent the morning and afternoon tightening the underside bolts, filling the radiator, and installing the starter: always a pain since you have to lift it and hold it and then try to get a bolt started while holding it with one hand using only your forearm muscle.... <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/rolleyes.gif You cant install it on the engine beforehand due to the fact that the starter harness is part of the engine compartment wiring and routes down from the top/front of the engine.

Anyway, once again, just like the 350 four years ago, I just clicked the key and she was running. No slow cranking, no backfires, no drama...I put the boy on guard duty to watch the underside for leaks, flames, gremlins, etc. I gave him a wet towel this time, instead of a fire extinguisher just so he wouldn't be tempted to start blasting away.

I ran it for 15 minutes at 1500 rpm or so and then shut her down to change the oil and filter to get out all the moly stuff, additives, white lube, dog and cat hair, etc. Checked the magnetic drain plug and it was clean. Then refilled it with Rotella 15w40 and Lucas Engine Break-In Additive.

I adjusted the timing and idle, and then took the car out for a test drive. Seems qute a bit peppier. It was getting dark by then, so me and the wife installed the hood and then I closed up the garage for the night.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/10/full-1359-33126-img_1556.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/10/full-1359-33127-img_1557.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/10/full-1359-33128-img_1554.jpg

[njsteve]

I really need to put a real exhaust on this car. You can hear it straining to breath. Time to start shopping for some RamAir manifolds and a real system to replace the factory log manifolds and the 30 year-old Walker 2&quot; crimped pipes and transverse muffler.

[cook_dw]

Not to steer you one way or another but I ordered a Jones x-pipe, Pypes Race Pro Crossflow muffler then went to my local exhaust shop and had the guy fab up the pipes and made it look and work with stock brackets and clamp locations. Ran headers with 3.5&quot; collectors that reduced down to 2.5&quot; all the way out. Total I have less than $400 in the exhaust. Of course I already had the headers, reducers &amp; hangers.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pye-mvr100

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/jex-xp4/overview/

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v687/superslow/1967%20Camaro/DSC03505_zpsfffade20.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/superslow/media/1967%20Camaro/DSC03505_zpsfffade20.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v687/superslow/1967%20Camaro/DSC03510_zpsb8db40eb.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/superslow/media/1967%20Camaro/DSC03510_zpsb8db40eb.jpg.html)


<object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/NJTTZjai8DA"></param> <param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/NJTTZjai8DA" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"> </embed></object>

[scuncio]

Congrats! Your project is going considerably better than my '67 GTO rejuvenation. I got mine running last weekend and it overheated after a 5 minute drive around the neighborhood (I think the water pump impeller is cooked - no apparent coolant flow across the radiator when the T-stat opens).

Anyway, looks great. I'm sure it has a 'little' more power than the stock motor.

[njsteve]

Did you replace the two rubber o-rings that go inside the timing cover on the transfer tubes? If you leave those out you get zero water flow.

[scuncio]

I haven't touched the pump yet...that was just a guess. I did replace the T-stat already and I still get no obvious water flowing from the engine into the radiator. I'll definitely replace the seals, backing plate, etc once I have it out.

[cook_dw]

All the pics and info and no video of it running?? Feel a little cheated.. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif

[njsteve]

Here you go:

http://vid1087.photobucket.com/albums/j467/njsteve-engines/IMG_1572.mp4

http://vid1087.photobucket.com/albums/j467/njsteve-engines/IMG_1571.mp4


I can't seem to figure out how to post the image of a photobucket video file. The video link tab only has Google, facebook, etc, no photobucket. Anyone have some advice?

[njsteve]

OK lets see how this goes. Click on the photos

http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j467/njsteve-engines/th_IMG_1572.jpg (http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j467/njsteve-engines/IMG_1572.mp4)

http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j467/njsteve-engines/th_IMG_1571.jpg (http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j467/njsteve-engines/IMG_1571.mp4)

[Canuck]

That is smooth!

[njsteve]

Took Gramma's car out for some mileage. I have 100 miles on the 455 now! Got caught in a freak, one-minute long, snow storm on Sunday. I stopped at a traffic light. All of sudden the clouds blocked out the sun and snowflakes started fluttering all over the place. The light turned green, the snow stopped, the sun came out and I continued back home. Very bizarre to say the least.

Maybe it was the odometer reading 797797 ?

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/10/full-1359-33388-img_1559.jpg


And safely back at the ranch.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/10/full-1359-33389-img_1574.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/10/full-1359-33390-img_1576.jpg

[Xplantdad]

Looks Great, Steve!!

[njsteve]

Thanks! I ordered a B&amp;M shift kit from Summit Racing for the car. It should be here this week in time for the weekend install. The original TH350 transmission has been babied all these years and operates fine but shifts way too smooth and slow. I would rather have it shift firmly and quickly. This car is silent inside when you roll up the windows and you can barely feel the tranny shift when it is rolling. Needs some real exhaust, and some chirping gears! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

Great sound!!!

You are one of the most tenacious car guys around!!

Ryan

PS: what would happen to a sleepy old Oldsmobile if I dropped it off at your place? If you are hurting for the next project just give me a call:-)

[njsteve]

Maybe one of these days I'll get to work on my Father-In-Law's '71 Cutlass S convertible. It is that neat metallic orange color. He is retired and cruises that car every day in the summer months up north. It's got a 350 Olds engine.

I wonder if a 455 Olds swaps with a 350 in the same way as a Pontiac? <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/hmmm.gif

[cook_dw]

Sounds &amp; looks great.. That cam definitely does a little talkin'..

[njsteve]

Today I went to my buddy's garage to use the lift and over the course of several hours, we installed the B&amp;M Shift Improver kit. This is the one that gives you two options: heavy duty or street/strip. We went with the street/strip option. It made an unbelievable improvement in the transmission's operation.

Before, it felt like there was no discernable shifting from second to third - just a mysterious melange of engine and transmission movement/noise that would last for several seconds. It was way too buffered and smooth - like they designed it for a Cadillac not a Pontiac.

Now the thing shifts quickly and firmly like it should, from first to second and second to third. Downshifts are much crisper and firmer, too. Best $95 I've spent so far. We also installed the Summit Racing one-piece, reusable, rubber and steel backed pan gasket. Excellent piece and doesn't leak like the OEM cork gasket.

And what did we find in the filter? Well, anyone with a Jack Russell knows how those critters shed. I found one of his white dog hairs in the filter! What the heck he was doing in the transmission pan, I have no idea. But he has been known to drive the car now and then...


The filter. Note the hair in the orange circle:

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/10/full-1359-33527-img_1601a.jpg

The rest of the internals looked pretty clean for 79,000 miles:

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/10/full-1359-33528-img_1607.jpg


The little hairball, caught in the act...


http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/10/full-1359-33529-s7003425.jpg

[earntaz]

Ya' wanna' bet that little pooch supervised tranny maintenance at one time or another? LOL

[njsteve]

For the past week or so I have been chasing this annoying bog when I try to floor the pedal off idle. I tried different timing, plugs, secondary spring tension adjustments, swapped out with different carbs several times, even checked on torque converter stall... yada, yada, yada. Still it bogged.

I have querying all the Jedi Masters about possible solutions and I found it today. Cliff Ruggles mentioned in an email that he had seen this sort of thing happen in aftermarket air cleaners when the lid was too close to the top of the carburetor. All this time I had been thinking it can't be that simple...well it was.

I have a reproduction ram air filter unit and the lid was so close to the base that it was restricting the air flow at full throttle. Today I was adjusting the timing and I tried the car without the air filter and no bog appeared. So I thought: &quot;Great, it was timing afterall!&quot;

So I put the air filter unit back on and attached the lid - the bog appeared full force. So that confirmed it: It was the lid and the short filter!

So I installed an old, taller element from a shaker unit - (it makes the lid stick up a 1/4 inch above sealing with the base), and tried it. No bog!

So let that be a lesson to you all. Sometimes it's the stupid little stuff that will drive you crazy.

THANK YOU CLIFF RUGGLES!

Here is the old filter and the new one. Only a 3/8&quot; difference made all the difference.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/10/full-1359-33725-img_1625.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/10/full-1359-33726-img_1626.jpg

[njsteve]

Here's the before video with the bog:

http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j467/njsteve-engines/th_IMG_1591.jpeg (http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j467/njsteve-engines/IMG_1591.mp4)

and the after, without the bog:

http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j467/njsteve-engines/th_IMG_1627.jpeg (http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j467/njsteve-engines/IMG_1627.mp4)

[VintageMusclecar]

<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

Sometimes the simplest things trip us up! Glad you finally found the culprit.

[njsteve]

Thanks Eric. I knew it wasn't your carb. It had to be something ridiculous which is par for the course any time I am working on a new project. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif

Maybe I can blame it on the boy. He tightened the wingnut when we first installed the air cleaner. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/hmmm.gif

[Jonesy]

Wow, big difference.

[njsteve]

You're tellin' me! I almost wound up in the neighbor's front yard when it shifted into second with the tires still spinning. And those are 275/40x17s. Time to work on better brakes.

[Xplantdad]

Neat info Steve!

[njsteve]

BTW, all this launching and bouncing around - my fuel tank sender just pooped out and is reading 3 o'clock. If I disconnect the electrical connection and ground the wire in the trunk, the gauge works again. I guess that means it's the sender...Oh, and they don't make them for 1975 Firebirds. Only 1976 and newer or 74 and older. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/rolleyes.gif

[njsteve]

The 74-74 Camaro/Firebird sender is made of unobtanium (no one reproduces the correct version as they have a different dual line routing than the 76 to 81 units. You can make a 76-81 work with some creating cutting nad reflaring.

One of the guys at PY thread indicated the &quot;3 o'clock&quot; fault is a common problem and has to do with the internal ground strap for the sender, the metal strap that grounds the meter float assembly inside the tank. It was kind of funny because the solutions all referred back to my &quot;derusting&quot; thread and another use for the liquid deruster. The only problem is that you have to remove the sender to soak it. Oh, well, another day another challenge...

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

The bog' is really gone:-)

Ryan

[earntaz]

As mentioned -- &quot;I have querying all the Jedi Masters about possible solutions and I found it today. Cliff Ruggles mentioned in an email that he had seen this sort of thing happen in aftermarket air cleaners when the lid was too close to the top of the carburetor. All this time I had been thinking it can't be that simple...well it was&quot;.

This issue has been around awhile -- some carbs vent tubes are &quot;square&quot; cut ... flat on top and some are angled. If an the air cleaner restricts vent air flow that will raise heck with the carb. Some Holley carb vents are flat and some are angle cut -- I would believe Holley went to angled vents to prevent air cleaner lids from blocking air flow. Just sayin' ... TAZ

[njsteve]

Yesterday, I hung out a my buddy Al's repair shop (where old the old guys and old cars hang out). He was trobleshooting some carb issues on a friend's 1970 Challenger 440 R/T. It bogs under 1500 rpm when accelerating (no it wasn't the aircleaner!). I got to play chase car in Gramma's car. No problem whatsoever, keeping up! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/naughty.gif

I think I found a new customer for Eric's carb rebuilding shop. My friend has been through several Carter AVS carbs over the past year or two but also found out that the main cause of the problem was a hidden crack in the intake valley portion of the factory cast iron intake which masked a massive internal vacuum leak. Now that the leak is settled and the engine is rebuilt, he needs the carb(s) set up properly for the engine. So I gave him Eric's contact info.

[VintageMusclecar]

Thank you Steve. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif

[njsteve]

You gotta help him. That 440 was no match for the <span style="font-style: italic">&quot;Little Old Lady from East Westchester&quot;</span>! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/naughty.gif

[VintageMusclecar]

Careful what'cha ask for... <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/wink.gif

[njsteve]

Got around to fixing the gas gauge issue today. I ended up ordering a new Spectra GM203 tank, straps, and sending unit. Since no one makes the sending unit for the 1974 and 75 Camaros and Firebirds. I ended up ordering a Spectra FG103C sending unit which is listed for the 1976 and newer cars (not for the 1974 and 75s, which no one makes). I ordered the tank from Advanceautoparts and used a 40% coupon so the tank only ended up costing $100 with free shipping.

You have to specifically know what you are looking for and what your car has. It seems that some of the Camaros and Firebirds used two vent lines on the passenger side and ran the main 3/8 fuel line on the driver's side (Gramma's car). The aftermarket manufacturers don't want to hear that. Most of the major fuel/brake line repro houses sell the unit that has one vent and one fuel line on the passenger side. So I ordered two different sending units and sent the incorrect one back.

It turns out that the Spectra FG103C is nearly identical to the 1975 sender, other than an extra 3&quot; and a 90 degree bend at the end. All I had to do to make it work was cut the last 3&quot; off and flare the line and I was all set to go.

I am glad I ended up ordering all the extras and not just the sending unit. One of the straps was corroded and broke at the bend point when I went to remove it. And the tank has a bad design in that it routes the 3/8&quot; fuel line in the inset area alongside the outer flange, behind the tank. This inset area retains around a 1/2&quot; of crud which corrodes the line after 40 years or so.

The old tank:

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/11/full-1359-33926-img_1638.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/11/full-1359-33927-img_1639.jpg


The old sending unit compared to the new one installed in the new tank. You can see the final bend in the new one that needed to be trimmed off. The copper line that is soldered in the top of the new tank needed to be connected to the vent line that I trimmed off the old tank. Two inches of 1/4&quot; hose and a couple of clamps worked fine.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/11/full-1359-33928-img_1640.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/11/full-1359-33929-img_1641.jpg


I did check the old sending unit once I removed it from the old tank. It would read properly at around 1/4 tank level but once you moved the float up, it would short out and spin the indicator needle off the guage. The new one worked fine - I made sure I tested it in the car before installing it. (once bitten twice shy...) <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/rolleyes.gif

[njsteve]

Today was winter prep day. I added Stabil to all the tanks and filled them up. Took the SD455, the WS6, and Gramma's car out for runs on the same route.

I can definitely say that the Gramma motor is stronger than a stock SD455.

I tried the same off-idle take off up a long highway onramp near the house. The SD455 got traction, launched, and chirped second going up the hill, hitting around 75 once it hit third on the highway.

The Grammamobile spun the 275/40x17s well into second, then launched up the hill into third and was doing 95 at the same point that the SD455 was doing 75.

Can't wait to get a real exhaust on this car! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/naughty.gif

[olredalert]

----I have been patiently waiting for the comparison, and I was right about the outcome,,,,for once......Bill S

[njsteve]

The SD has 3.08s and the Grammobile has 3.42s. The 3.08 rear gear would be a much better gear for the Gramma car. Those 3.42s are just a bit too steep for a low rpm engine. The power band is 2,000 to 5,000 on this engine. You really notice the pull when it hits the sweet spot. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/naughty.gif

Maybe Kwhizz can install an overdrive tranny for me. This car really needs an an extra gear.

[VintageMusclecar]

200R4 automatic would be a relatively easy swap.

[njsteve]

Just got a set of the new Max Performance ram air manifolds and a Pypes 2-1/2 inch crossflow system installed on the car. HOLY @#% what a difference. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/eek.gif No traction whatsoever now when you hit the gas off-idle.

I'll get some photos of the system tomorrow. I just got back from the shop a few minutes ago. Of course I had a fun trip with my truck and trailer. Four miles from the shop I felt a jolt in the front brakes and the pedal felt weird. I pulled over but couldn't see any leaks or anything noticeable. I thought that maybe the ABS was acting up? I limped the remaining four miles to the shop and then crawled underneath the truck. It turns out that the left front disc brake dust shield broke loose and instead of falling to the ground, it rotated around and rolled itself up like a windowshade, in between the inside brake pad and the rotor. Oy!

I was able to unbolt the caliper and using a pair of pliers, cutters, a hammer, and a big screw driver, pulled the shrapnel out. Luckily I had an extra set of pads in my tool box as the inner pad was all chewed up. As frightening as the metal penetration was, all stuck in there, all I heard was a barely noticeable scraping sound, no-where near as loud as even a wear indicator. Got it fixed and back on its wheel in record time - 30 minutes. So it pays to carry a lot of old parts when you drive an old truck. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

[njsteve]

Here's the new manifolds just after the box was opened. Just in time for an early X-mas gift!

They come with a heat-coated finish already so you don't have to send them out get Jet-Hot coated and wait for the return trip.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/11/full-1359-34313-img_1644.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/11/full-1359-34314-img_1645.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/11/full-1359-34315-img_1647.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/11/full-1359-34316-img_1648.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/11/full-1359-34317-img_1649.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/11/full-1359-34312-img_1779.jpg

[olredalert]

----I take it you like these ram-air manifolds as much as I do. When restoring my 69 GP/SJ 428/370 I couldn't bring myself to schlep the log manifolds back on the car. Those have to be the most restrictive exhaust manifolds known to man!!! Along with some other judicious modifications that no one will ever see, I thing I am well beyond the 390 rated 428/HO Grand Prix top engine option......Bill S

[njsteve]

I went the ramair manifold route because no tubular steel headers ever seal properly on a Pontiac...and they fry starters...and boil the oil filters...and drag on the ground...and are impossible to install, etc,.

These manifolds flow nearly as well as a good set of tube headers but do it very quietly with no ground clearance issues.

[VintageMusclecar]

Amazing what happens when an engine can exhale, ain't it? <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/wink.gif

[StealthBird]

Very cool Steve! I have a set of Ram Air Restorations manifolds for my 1969 Firebird, RAIV ports, with a 3&quot; outlet. Beautiful pieces! Unfortunately, I have aluminum heads (doctored to appear stock) and a pretty healthy cam, and I noticed a big dropoff at around 4500 rpm with the manifolds. I removed them after only running them for a few weeks.

But on a stock or near stock car, these enlarged passage manifolds are awesome. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/smile.gif

Mike

[njsteve]

I brought Gramma's car to my buddy Al's garage this morning. Did some exhaust clamp tightening after a heat cycle. Took it out for a spin to show Al how it runs. If you stomp on it off idle, it just sits there and spins, shifts into second still spinning and then slowly inches forward and eventually gets into third while still spinning. I REALLY need to get taller tires now. These 25&quot; tall BFGs in the back need to go. I am looking at a 27&quot; tall Nitto 255/50x17 which would match the stock tire height and both fill the wheelwell and make the rear gear a little easier to live with.

This photo is actually someone else's 74 Formula (that looks like the twin to Gramma's car). He has the Nitto 255/50x17s mounted on the Year One 17&quot; Honeycombs. They fill the wheelwells a lot better than the 275/40x17s I have on there now. No one seems to make a 60 series 17&quot; tire other than truck tread tires like a Long Trail T/A.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/11/full-1359-34370-74_formula.jpg

Compared to my car:

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/11/full-1359-34371-s7007528.jpg

[njsteve]

Oh, and I forgot to mention that the car also now runs about 15 degrees cooler on the temp gauge. Before it was consistently running at 195 to 200 degrees. Now it's operating in the 180 range.


...gas mileage has <span style="text-decoration: underline">not</span> improved. I think it's around 5 mpg now. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/naughty.gif

[njsteve]

Here's some detail shots of the manifold install. These are the larger, 2-1/2&quot; outlet manifolds and they clear everything nicely and mate up to the 2-1/2&quot; Pypes exhaust system very cleanly with no leaks.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/11/full-1359-34372-img_1664.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/11/full-1359-34373-img_1669.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/11/full-1359-34374-img_1663.jpg

[VintageMusclecar]

How is oil filter &amp; starter access with the new manifolds?

We need action video. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/naughty.gif

[njsteve]

Both can be removed without problem. (Both were removed for installation, though). That is the original 1975 starter which still functions fine (knock on wood). It even has the factory heat shield still in place.

If you look at the oil filter photo you can see that the factory heavy duty ground wire is still there, too. It looks like a piece of black insulated welding cable with white part number on it. It's one of those original parts that seems to get thrown away any time transmission maintenance goes on, as it is a pain to install and gets in the way of everything. It runs from the subframe to the lower bellhousing bolt.

[VintageMusclecar]

Those GM cars with cable operated console shifters had a nasty habit of arc welding through the shifter cables and starting fires if the engine/trans weren't sufficiently grounded to the body &amp; frame--seen numerous 2nd Gen F bodies suffer that malady. It looks like Pontiac resolved the issue in their typical overkill fashion. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif

[njsteve]

Wow, you learn something new every day! Great auto trivia there!

[earntaz]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: VintageMusclecar</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Those GM cars with cable operated console shifters had a nasty habit of arc welding through the shifter cables and starting fires if the engine/trans weren't sufficiently grounded to the body &amp; frame--seen numerous 2nd Gen F bodies suffer that malady. It looks like Pontiac resolved the issue in their typical overkill fashion. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif</div></div>

Yep -- you are so wise ... I have seen this issue right after a engine swap. Famous last words: &quot;we don't need this ugly, dirty ground strap&quot; ... TAZ

[njsteve]

Cleaned out the truck and trailer today. Here's the old exhaust.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/11/full-1359-34398-img_1670.jpg

The main tubes had several of these flattened areas that reduced the diameter by almost half.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/11/full-1359-34399-img_1672.jpg

And the original log manifolds. the driver's side has the vacuum operated flapper valve.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/11/full-1359-34400-img_1673.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/11/full-1359-34401-img_1674.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/11/full-1359-34402-img_1675.jpg

[njsteve]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: VintageMusclecar</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> We need action video. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/naughty.gif </div></div>

How about this?

http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j467/njsteve-engines/th_grammacar.jpeg (http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j467/njsteve-engines/grammacar.mp4)

[Xplantdad]

Damn kids! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/burnout.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif

[njsteve]

Hooligans, I tell ya!

[VintageMusclecar]

Looked pretty effortless to me. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

[njsteve]

Your carb is working good, Eric!

Can't beat that video for &quot;Word of Mouth&quot; advertising! Or more accurately, &quot;Noise of Tire&quot; advertising? <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/naughty.gif

[VintageMusclecar]

<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

[njsteve]

Here are some better photos of the actual installed system. It was put on by the guys at Pypes. Their location is relatively close to me. They do great work!

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/11/full-1359-34628-6.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/11/full-1359-34629-7.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/11/full-1359-34631-9.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/11/full-1359-34632-5.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/11/full-1359-34633-4.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/11/full-1359-34634-3.jpg

[Xplantdad]

Looks great!

[earntaz]

Let er talk ...

[njsteve]

Got a present for Gramma's car. NORWOOD, a member here and over at PY reproduces several Firebird-only parts. One of them is the set of correct steel grills for the 1970 to 1975 Ram Air hoods. Just got them today and installed them. I even had some of the correct shouldered hex screws in my box-o-bolts, for the installation

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/12/full-1359-35604-img_1716.jpg

The grill actually slides into place from underneath into preexisting slots in the hood. Two screws are then fastened into two molded-in bosses. They hold the grills in place from the bottom.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/12/full-1359-35605-img_1718.jpg


A face only a Grandson could love. (The 74-75 cars seems to be the least adored noses of the entire 1970 to 1981 line)

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/12/full-1359-35606-img_1719.jpg

[The Boss]

I wouldn't kick it out of my garage for dripping oil. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/wink.gif

[njsteve]

Thanks! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

The fun thing about the 70-81 Firebirds is that you could bolt on a 70-73 nose/grill on any 1974-81 Bird with little effort.

But as I have opined on prior occasions, that would be like giving Betty White a boob job...she may wind up lookin' better but it just wouldn't be right! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/no.gif

[PeteLeathersac]

Love the x-pipe and other updates also nice touch w/ the scoop grilles.
All's looking really great Steve, I never knew I wanted a '75 so bad before!
<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif
~ Pete

[njsteve]

Since it was a record 70 degrees here today, after working on the cars and cleaning the garage, I decided to get a photo of our twohttp://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/12/full-1359-36124-angrybirds.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/12/full-1359-36127-aimg_1788a.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/12/full-1359-36125-aimg_1781a.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/12/full-1359-36126-aimg_1782a.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/12/full-1359-36128-aimg_1791a.jpg

[scuncio]

Cool cars Steve. It was 65 degrees in Detroit, just unreal.

[olredalert]

----Very cool, Steve! It would be fun to see what both cars look like with the wheels switched.....Bill S

[Canuck]

What if Alfred Hitchcock had this in mind for a story of &quot;the Birds&quot;?

Paul

[njsteve]

Santa brought some parts for Gramma's car. Even though we only need the bottom two inches of both panels where they join together, Santa had to buy the entire panels since that's all that is available.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/12/full-1359-36647-img_1833.jpg


(The big box is a bumper that Santa brought for the Suburban) <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/santa.gif

(The wife refused to put it all under the tree - Bah Humbug!)

[njsteve]

It's January and we are still driving the Gramma car! Got 470 miles on the new engine as of today.

No snow yet, so no salt on the roads. I just dropped the boy off at wrasslin' practice, so he could show off his Great Grandmother's car to his friends. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

[njsteve]

As you may know, Pypes did the install of the exhaust system on the Grammacar. They now have a sound clip on their website...well a little more than just sound.......

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ptAubfuN8N4

[YOUTUBE]ptAubfuN8N4[YOUTUBE]

[VintageMusclecar]

<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

[njsteve]

I think I wanna make that acceleration sound the ringtone on my phone. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif

[Craig_Maiorana]

They installed at Pypes? Was it Dave that installed it?

[njsteve]

Is Dave the guy with the GTO? If so, it was him. He did a nice job on the install.

[Craig_Maiorana]

Not sure I believe he is a ford guy. But he came out and did the exhaust on our 56 chevy convertible when we did the TV. Big guy bald looked like a stocky uncle fester (and I am only describing how he looks, he is a super nice guy). I bet that car sounds great. I like the way Pypes stuff rings.

[njsteve]

The guy that installed our system was a different technician. Definitely a Pontiac guy.

[njsteve]

I was digging around looking for stuff to do during our blizzard. I perused the original dealer file folder for Gramma's car and found all sorts of cool stuff. She traded in a 1967 Thunderbird. White with red interior and got a trade in allowance of $1,153.

Here some of the paperwork:

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2016/01/full-1359-38104-paperwork1.jpg

[njsteve]

Found the broadcast sheet, too.

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt77/nk15268c/Gramma%20Car%20Broadcast%20sheet.jpg

[Craig_Maiorana]

Man that's the grandmother load ... So the car originally came from Yonkers. I can't believe that much stuff was still in the dealer folder for that car

[njsteve]

I come from a long line of pack-rats. We never throw anything away. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif

[StealthBird]

Cool stuff, Steve! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif

[Craig_Maiorana]

Then I think there's a chance we are related Steve.... I have parts that I don't have cars for. And lets not even ask about emblems LoL .... Congrats though

[njsteve]

Anyone got their April issue of Hemmings Muscle Machines yet? I just heard that Gramma's car is in it. Haven't gotten my copy yet, though. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/burnout.gif

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: njsteve</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Anyone got their April issue of Hemmings Muscle Machines yet? I just heard that Gramma's car is in it. Haven't gotten my copy yet, though. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/burnout.gif </div></div>

I got mine last night, I emailed you the pictures, post them up!!!

Ryan

[njsteve]

Here she is, in all her glory. Way to go Gramma! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn137/unruhjonny/Firebird/DB7D3EB0-7759-4768-9D0D-029E78F562DE.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/unruhjonny/media/Firebird/DB7D3EB0-7759-4768-9D0D-029E78F562DE.jpg.html)

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn137/unruhjonny/Firebird/85797A62-6175-44CF-88A8-0614CA77303C.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/unruhjonny/media/Firebird/85797A62-6175-44CF-88A8-0614CA77303C.jpg.html)

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn137/unruhjonny/Firebird/3941C163-EDD2-40E8-9C29-17CC00977A20.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/unruhjonny/media/Firebird/3941C163-EDD2-40E8-9C29-17CC00977A20.jpg.html)

[olredalert]

----Very CQQL, Steve!!!......Bill S

[RPOLS3]

Cool - congrats!

[Craig_Maiorana]

That is pretty darn cool

<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/headbang.gif

[scuncio]

Well done!

[VintageMusclecar]

Thank you for the plug Steve, I really appreciate it. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/smile.gif

[njsteve]

Glad to spread the word. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

...And speaking of plugs, I took Gramma's car out yesterday for a spin. She ran very well. Plugs seem to be burning nicely. I swapped in the old set of NGKs a couple months back, replacing the ACs I had in there initially. The Pontiacs seem to run smoother with them for some reason.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2016/02/full-1359-39567-img_1991.jpg

[olredalert]

----Try Autolites next time......Bill S

[VintageMusclecar]

Looks good to me--but the heat line on the ground strap is a bit close to the base ring. You could probably go down a couple of heat ranges on the plugs.

I run NGK in all my stuff as well.

[njsteve]

I just remembered that my memory isn't as good as it once was.

Which way on the part number (higher or lower) is a colder heat range?

[VintageMusclecar]

What # are you running now?

[njsteve]

UR45

[VintageMusclecar]

UR55 is the next coldest and the only one available with the wide gap. If you're willing to run an .035&quot; gap plug you can go to a UR6.

[njsteve]

Since the car runs an HEI it probably needs the wide gap for the plugs.

[VintageMusclecar]

The reasoning behind the big gaps &quot;back in the day&quot; was to create a bigger flame kernel to try to light off the ultra-lean mixtures they employed back then to get them past the smog sniffer.

I've never had a problem running .035&quot; gaps with an HEI, that's what I'm running with my 357 small block in the Malibu wagon. I don't think you'll have any issues if you're willing to give it a try.

FWIW.

[njsteve]

Oh, if that's the case, I do have an extra set of the .040 gapped NGK UR4 and UR4GP which is the factory heat range for the '72 455HO engines. But that might be too hot of a heat range I imagine?

[cook_dw]

Congrats on the article.. I've ran NGK's for years and never had any issues.. I even have them in the green car.

[VintageMusclecar]

With NGK plugs, the higher the number the colder the heat range, i.e. 4 = hot, 5 = middle, 6 = cold.

I *believe* ranges 4,5 and 6 are the standard passenger car heat ranges for NGK's, you might have to upgrade to a premium or race plug to go colder.

FWIW, I was running UR5 plugs in my 496 and they were too hot. I've since switched to 6's which I am still currently evaluating.

[JRC99]

Just got my copy of Hemming's! Congrats, man!

[njsteve]

Thank you! I just got my extra copies that I purchased, from Hemmings. My subscription copy hasn't showed up yet!

[ANDY M]

Steve, two big claps and a Rick Flair for the ink!<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif All you cars are works of art, because your passion for detail is incredible. I get jealous of your skills at putting things back together, since my skillset ends after taking things apart. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/rolleyes.gif
We've been fortunate enough to watch your kids grow up working in your garage, thanks so much for sharing. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/worship.gif
Andy

[njsteve]

Thank you! I sent out a PDF of the article to all my relatives today: Mom and Dad, brothers, sister, cousins, in-laws, etc. They got quite a vicarious thrill out it.

Thay all want to send me their daily drivers to fix now. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/rolleyes.gif

[CC Rider]

Congrats Steve! I enjoyed the article. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif

[RPOLS3]

Just read it last night - great article, congratulations.

[njsteve]

Took Gramma's car out yesterday to fill it with gas. Since my daughter needed gas in her car too, I filled both tanks up with the regular, lowest 87 octane stuff. The car did not complain one bit. Not a ping to be heard with the 9-1/2 to 1 compression! Hurray for cheap gas! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

[njsteve]

I just noticed that Pypes posted the step by step installation video for the exhaust system they installed on Gramma's car.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LEzDmlCyA14

[KevinW]

Nice! I wish the voice over guy was more excited about it <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/smile.gif

[njsteve]

Yeah, it kinda reminded me of the voice over on the original &quot;health education&quot; movies we were forced to watch in elementary school. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif

[Jonesy]

I need to update the system on my 74 z. I bought a stainless system with transverse muffler and I hate to say it, but its too quiet.
I cant remember the vendor, but I took the car out this weekend and was not impressed with the sound. Almost as drab as the voice over guy. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/laugh.gif

[njsteve]

I really like this system. It sounds downright evil at full throttle.

BTW, I just noticed that they also posted the installation video for the ram air manifolds:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3XsgWVUQ48s

[Craig_Maiorana]

Hey Steve what muffler did they put on there?

[njsteve]

It's the SGF70 system which uses a crossflow that flows straight through from side to side. The driver's side goes straight through the top and out the other side and the passenger side goes straight across through the bottom. It's not like a stock transverse muffler that just dumps both into the muffler can.

[njsteve]

Well, I finally got some new tires for the Gramma car. Discount Tire Direct was having a sale with $50 off a set, plus another $50 off if you used Paypal on ebay, plus another $50 debit card rebate from Nitto and free shipping! So I ended up getting the tires at around $97 each instead of $140.

Those BFG G-Force T/As were just too darn short for the wheelwells. They were 275/40xZR17 and only 25&quot; tall. The replacements are Nitto 255/50xZR17 which are 27&quot; tall. Nitto seems to be the only company that makes a reasonably priced tire in that size. So instead of 2,800 rpm at 60 mph, it is now 2,600 rpm at 60 mph. And the best part is that they fit the wheelwells properly.

So, with that in mind does anyone need a nearly new set of BFG G-Force Sport T/As in 275/40xZR17 with around 500 miles on them? These are the same size that came on the 1998 to 2002 Camaro SS and Trans Am WS6, by the way.


Before:

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2016/05/full-1359-43218-grammas_75.jpg

After:

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2016/05/full-1359-43219-img_2157.jpg

Before:

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2016/05/full-1359-43221-profile.jpg

After:

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2016/05/full-1359-43222-img_2158.jpg

[Xplantdad]

Looks really nice Steve!

[njsteve]

Thanks, It rides a lot nicer now too. I think old cars like tall sidewalls. The 40 series tires seemed to feel like they would follow any road defect - kind of like driving on old bias ply tires.

[Xplantdad]

The new tires really fill out the wheel wells nicely!

[njsteve]

Here is the link to the online Hemmings Muscle Machines article. You may need to have a magazine subscription and log-in to access it.

http://www.hemmings.com/magazine/mus/201...rd/3749604.html (http://www.hemmings.com/magazine/mus/2016/04/The-Accidental-Muscle-Car---1975-Pontiac-Firebird/3749604.html)

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

I received my Hemmings Muscle Machines last night and bam.... More NJSteve Pontiac engine build article:-)

Very cool coverage, and a few pics of the young lad torquing head bolts and such:-)

Ryan

The links are nice but pictures of the article are better:-)

[njsteve]

LOL. As usual I am the last to know... Or get a copy.

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

Here you go!!

Ryan

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2016/06/full-13277-44861-img_0237.jpg
http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2016/06/full-13277-44862-img_0238.jpg
http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2016/06/full-13277-44863-img_0234.jpg
http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2016/06/full-13277-44864-img_0235.jpg
http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2016/06/full-13277-44865-img_0236.jpg

[njsteve]

Thanks! Nice to see they gave a shout-out to Eric for his carb work. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

And as usual anything tied to NJSteve has a shout out to Evaporust:-)

Ryan

[njsteve]

With the amount I go through, I should at least get a discount! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

They should sponsor the next &quot;newest, newer, part 7&quot; restoration:-)

Ryan

[VintageMusclecar]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: njsteve</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks! Nice to see they gave a shout-out to Eric for his carb work. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif </div></div>

Thank you Steve. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif

[drdave69]

Those tires sure make it look better. Who knew that 2 more inches would make a difference. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/blush.gif

[Dave Rifkin]

Not bad for someone who knows nothing about Pontiacs................. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/hmmm.gif

[njsteve]

Hey, I'm a slow learner... <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/dunno.gif

[njsteve]

Well it's a little slow around here so I decided to take apart the front suspension on Gramma's car. At 80,000 miles I figured that it was about time. It's always the annoying little stuff that takes the longest...like getting 42 year old cotter pins out. UGH! Or removing the upper control frame nuts and then discovering that the upper control arm won't come off if the engine is there. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/rolleyes.gif So, I had to tap the knurled bolts back out of the frame so the upper arms could come out.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/01/full-1359-57009-img_2962.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/01/full-1359-57010-img_2961.jpg

Here's the pile of greasy old parts:

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/01/full-1359-57011-img_2963.jpg

[njsteve]

And here is the problem for the day. I noticed that the driver's sde lower ball joint nut was really easy to remove (after spending 30 minutes getting the fused cotter pin out.). When I turned the spindle to get clearance I noticed that it moved on a stanrge arc instead of on a normal pivot.

Well here is the reason: the original lower ball joint stud had been loose for who knows how many decades. It probably was improperly installed from the factory, and it completely oblonged the mounting hole.

Does anyone have a spare driver's side second gen Camrao or Firebird spindle they want to get rid of?

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/01/full-1359-57013-bad_spindle.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/01/full-1359-57014-img_2954.jpg

[njsteve]

And here's another glitch. It seems that the factory had some issue over the upper control arm bushing nuts coming loose so they tack welded the front driver's side nut on. I have seen this on other 1975 cars. It is only on the front nut of the driver's side.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/01/full-1359-57015-img_2964.jpg
http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/01/full-1359-57016-img_2966.jpg

The passenger side does not have the tack weld but does have a different lock nut on the rear of the stud.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/01/full-1359-57017-img_2967.jpg
http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/01/full-1359-57018-img_2968.jpg
http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/01/full-1359-57019-img_2969.jpg

[njsteve]

Here's the bad spindle. The casting number is 371675.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/01/full-1359-57052-img_2956.jpg

[seventieshow]

&quot;And here's another glitch. It seems that the factory had some issue over the upper control arm bushing nuts coming loose so they tack welded the front driver's side nut on. I have seen this on other 1975 cars. It is only on the front nut of the driver's side&quot;

I have a 1971 Camaro with the same thing on the passenger upper forward bushing nut. Car is unrestored (but needs it). I always thought it was done by an alignment shop, but now you have me wondering. It is the same style of nut like the one in your picture.

[njsteve]

Well, the plot thickens. After perusing 42 years of old receipts it turns out that the Midas Muffler Shop my brother took the car to, replaced the driver's side spindle about 30 years ago when they did a brake job....and they used a 1978 spindle, and didn't bother to fully tighten the ball joint castle nut. Hence the &quot;D58&quot; date code on the spindle and the noticeably lighter duty casting than the passenger side spindle which is a 329354 spindle dated &quot;G25&quot;. So I guess I need a 329353 spindle in case anyone has one sitting on a coffee table somewhere. I believe that this spindle was used on just about every disc brake GM car from 1970 to 1976.

Driver's side 1978 spindle:

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/01/full-1359-57056-img_2974.jpg

Original 1975 passenger spindle:

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/01/full-1359-57055-img_2972.jpg

[njsteve]

One of the guys on the Performance Years website found this TSB. It talks about the welded nut on the control arm but doesn't give a reason for it being there.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/01/full-1359-57133-welded_control_arm_tsb.jpg

[njsteve]

Looks like it started in 1974 because nuts were coming off:

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/01/full-1359-57160-74_c_2a.jpg

[Jonesy]

I believe my 74 z/28 has this welded nut thing also.

[njsteve]

Things are moving along nicely. A fellow member over at the Performance Years forum sent me 1974 casting date spindle from one of her parts cars and we are good to go. Thank you LadyTATA! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

Here are the new coil springs. I got them from Coil Spring Specialties http://www.coilsprings.com/ They build your springs to order using the factory specs, out of specific coil material. They don't just hack an inch off of some unversal sized coil. It usually takes a week or two to get them made.

They did an awesome job making me a set of springs for the black 72 Formula a few years ago which had the car sitting perfectly - not too high, not too low. I looked up my old invoice and had them build the same set again, under that work order. The spec was for a 72 T/A 455 with A/C and a one-inch ride height drop. (Even though the spec were for a lower ride height, the springs had the car sitting at the exact ride height as original).

Here they are. They are shorter than the factory spring but made of a stiffer material. If I put my weight on the old spring I can compress it a little...not with the new spring!

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/02/full-1359-58224-img_2996.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/02/full-1359-58225-img_2997.jpg

[njsteve]

On Monday I dropped off the control arms and inner fenders at Xtreme powder coating in West Easton, PA http://xtremecustomcoatings.com/. (http://xtremecustomcoatings.com/) They had them blasted and powder coated and ready for pickup on Friday! Now that's service! Very good price too. I was lucky in that they had a load of other stuff to do in semi-gloass black scheduled that week and I came by at the exact right time to add it to the batch.

Once I got them back, I painted the bare metal portions with stainless steel paint to duplicate the original undipped portion of the arms. Now it's time for pressing in the new bushings and balljoints.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/02/full-1359-58230-img_3005.jpg

[CamarosRus]

Steve, Do you any knowledge of what kind/brand of filler can be used on rust pits
on metal that would be then powder coated ???

Also having recently pressed bushings into unpainted control arms....
I'm very interested to see/learn how YOU do this with damaging
your fresh powder coat.

[njsteve]

The installation of the lower control arm bushings was not too difficult. I used the bench vice and several 3/4 drive sockets to press them . The powder coat held up fine. I oiled the bushings so they'd slide a little easier.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/02/full-1359-58240-img_3006.jpg

[olredalert]

----Chuck,,,I was thinking JB Weld. The only thing is that I have found it hard to feather out at the edges, but not impossible......Bill S

[njsteve]

Make sure you use a spacer to keep the flanges from bending inward. I used a section of Mopar alternator bushing for the lower control arms.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/02/full-1359-58259-img_3006a.jpg

[njsteve]

The upper control arms are a little more involved. If you try to press both bushings in without supporting the inner arms where the flanges are, it will bend the entire arm in half and destroy it. Originally there was a dealer issued tool (no longer available) that supported the area between the two arms while using a press. So I built my own...

First, I used the vice to press in the smaller bushing (1975 used a large and a small bushing, while earlier models used the same small bushing on both sides). I then set the pivot bar in place, passing it through the larger bushing hole and set the large bushing in place. I then set up the spacer bar I fabricated from the old central pivot bar that I had to cut off due to the factory spot weld. I cut it to the exact length that could run parallel to the new bar. This way I could use a couple long bolts to pin them together to hold the spacer bar from flying outward under pressure. It worked great!

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/02/full-1359-58260-img_3021.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/02/full-1359-58261-img_3022.jpg

[njsteve]

As for the powder coating holding up, it survived the process relatively unscathed. The silver paint did scratch off when I pressed the lower ball joints in but that was easily resprayed, and it didn't hurt the underlying black powder coating either. (although I had to buy another Moog ball joint after I neglected to account for how far the balljoint stud would protrude through the large sockets when pressed, and it bound up against the press'es floorplate and ruined the internal parts. So I had to go out and buy another one at the local auto parts store. They actually had the same Moog part in stock (at twice the price I paid for the first one). <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/mad.gif

[njsteve]

Got the replacement ball joint pressed in today and then went ahead with installing the lower and upper control arms on the car. I figure I'll leave off the freshly powder coated inner fenders so I can bring the car for an alignment and not have to worry about the guy leaning all over everything and trying the wrangle a wrench onto the upper control arm bolts if he needs to install some shims. (especially difficult on the passenger side with the A/C compressor blocking everything).


http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/02/full-1359-58290-img_3026.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/02/full-1359-58291-img_3028.jpg

[njsteve]

This morning I went out and was all ready to install the coil springs and then remembered that I did not have a coil spring compressor. Luckily my mechanic buddy in town had a vintage one he loaned me for the day. After a couple hours of labor I got the coil springs, spindles, new KYB gas shocks, new sway bar bushings, and the end links installed. Only thing left is the repacking the wheel bearings and painting the calipers. Then installing the inner fenders and getting an alignment, of course.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/02/full-1359-58387-img_3033.jpg

[9999]

May I ask what method you used to remove the upper control arm shaft from the upper control arms so you could replace the bushings? Thank you for your documentation, I will be doing this to my '71 Camaro soon.

[njsteve]

The one with the welded nut, I had to cut the nuts off (Ouch, that didn't sound right) to get the large washers off. I then used an air chisel with a blunt tip to pop the bushings out. They are only held in by the last half inch or so, of the bushing's outer shell where it tapers out slightly. So you are not chiseling it the entire way. Once it gets past a certain point it just pops out.

[9999]

Thank you very much, doesn't sound too bad of a job.


EDIT: Also, what kind of &quot;plain steel&quot; finish did you use for the tips of the control arms? Looks perfect.

[njsteve]

Rustoleum, Stainless Steel paint from Lowes.

[njsteve]

Got everything back together today including the powder coated inner fenders. They are quite the endeavor to install without scratching them. I ended up using duct tape around the fender flanges and the underside of the fender in the engine compartment. This alowed the inner fender to painlessly jockey for position while I used some screw drivers to pry it til it fully slipped under the fender well flanges and engaged in place.

Tomorrow I'll take her off the jackstands and see how she sits.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/02/full-1359-58800-img_3039.jpg

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/02/full-1359-58801-img_3040.jpg

[RST]

Your amazing Steve .......... looks great!

[njsteve]

Thanks! Gotta keep busy working on something. Maybe I'll pull the rear end out next to redo the springs/bushings/shocks, etc.

[njsteve]

Took Gramma's car out for a test drive this morning. Very smooth. No floating or tire rubbing during suspension movement when going over bumps. Actually no real wallowing or jouncing at all, like it did with the old parts. It rides very nicely now. Not even a hint of a rub at full lock in either direction any more.

Prior to the suspension rebuild, the passenger side front tire was a good 3/8&quot; further out of the wheel well (when viewed from above) than the driver's side - due to the worn control arm bushings. Now it is in the exact location as the driver's side tire. YAY!

Once I pull the rear end out, rebuild the rear springs and replace the bushings and shocks, she should level out a bit.

The ride height is as follows:

Left Front: 28-11/16&quot; to fender edge..................Right Front: 28-8/16&quot; to fender edge
Left Rear: 28-13/16&quot; to fender edge...................Right Rear 28-6/16&quot; to fender edge

I thought it a little odd that the driver's side is taller than the passenger side. I then went and measured the 19,000 mile SD455 fender heights and found that it had the exact same stagger gap between left to right.

Here is a photo of the car with the factory 80,000 mile suspension components:

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/02/full-1359-58830-new_tires_255_50_17.jpg


And today with the new front springs (prior to the test drive)

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/02/full-1359-58831-new_springs.jpg

[njsteve]

And here's a shot of the newly powder coated inner fenders installed. Time to get going on detailing the rest of the engine bay one of these days.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/02/full-1359-58857-img_3045.jpg

[KevinW]

Nice work Steve! So no &quot;rubber&quot; flaps on the inner fenders?

[njsteve]

Nope. I think they stopped that in 1972.

[njsteve]

I was thinking (always a dangerous endeavor)...it's probably all the A/C gear that causes these things to sit lower on the passenger side. You have that heavy A-6 compressor, the evaporator and fiberglass box, and all the hoses and extraneous other shrapnel that go along with the system. Not to mention the heavy radial spare tire and rim on the right side as well. All that would tend to make the car unevenly weighted to the right side.

[njsteve]

I brought the car in for an alignment today and was pleasantly surprised. As assembled, the caster and camber were perfectly in spec and only the toe was out of spec. It was toed in, probably due to the wacky driver's side lower ball joint/spindle wallowing situation. I brought my bag-O-shims with me but the car didn't need a single shim, whatsoever.

She tracks straight and true and the steering wheel is straight. YAY!

Now, on to the rear suspension. The front end is completely silent. But I can hear squeeks from the worn front leaf spring bushings and the squishy Midas shock absorbers and worn sway bar bushings. I had already replaced the rear shackle bushings last year when I replaced the gas tank. The new KYB gas shocks arrived yesterday and now I am waiting for the new sway bar bushings that Summit is drop shipping from Prothane. This car has the small 9/16&quot; sway bar which was a little tricky to find bushings for.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PTP-7-1116-BL

[njsteve]

We took Gramma's car out today. It was around 20 degrees and sunny out. The boy needed some driving time for his learners permit so we drove the car around the neighborhood roads. He was plodding along at around 20 mph and eventually felt confortable enough to hit a rollicking 30 mph by the end of the half hour of driving. It was a most entertaining time. His sister's first driving time was in this car, too. Nothing like creating new automotive memories in his Great Grandmother's ancient chariot that was built a quarter century before he was born.

When we got home I decided to swap out the too hot of a heat range plugs for a set of ACDelco R44TSX's. I had NGK UR45s in there but the flame pattern seems a bit close to the base ring.

[njsteve]

I pulled the spare out of the trunk today and noticed that it is the original spare tire from 1975. Its a B.F. Goodrich Lifesaver Whitewall F78x15 manufactured the 23rd week of 1975. Cool!

[RST]

Cool stuff Steve :)

[njsteve]

BTW, I guess there must be some type of built-in macho blessing on Firebird drivers from the Patron Saint of Trans Ams: Burt Reynolds.

I looked at my 16 year old son today and he now has the faint beginnings of a mustache that he did not have prior to test driving the car yesterday.

Too cool for school!

[Craig_Maiorana]

As I read that I could hear Burts laugh in my head haha

[njsteve]

My son has been begging for more driving time in Gramma's car but the snow this week kind of cancelled that option. Looks like it's his mom's Dodge or the old Suburban til everything thaws out.

[9999]

Snow? Seriously, it's 80º here...

[njsteve]

It was around 45 degrees today so I pulled the rear out to start the process of swapping the 3.42 gears for 3.08s. I have a set of GM 3.08s that a PY forum member sent me to trade for the GM 3.42 set currently in the car.

Here's the result after four hours of work.

[9999]

I had no clue a Firebird could have 3.42:1 gears in '75. I was under the impression non-A/C cars could get up to 3.23:1 and that was as low as they go! Guess you learn somethin new every day!

[njsteve]

Actually the car came with a 2.56. I put the 3.42 posi rear from a 1980 Trans Am in it 25 years ago.

[9999]

That sounds more reasonable, also sounds pretty cool. It's not too hard to set the lash?

[njsteve]

I stopped in at the chassis shop today and they already had the rear all finished. That was quick - dropped it off Monday, picked it up Wednesday.

Ended up costing $250 to set up the gears and an additional $100 to replace the axle bearings. He found that the small retainer bolt that holds the center pin into the carrier, was sheared off. The portion of the bolt head with threads was holding the remaining portion of the retaining pin in place. He said the broken piece came out with a thin magnetic probe. He indicated that this was a common problem he has encountered over the years. Whew!

The rear is back home now in the garage. That gives me something to start cleaning and painting now.

[njsteve]

Getting ready to paint and reassemble the rear. I had the chassis guy who set up the rear, sandblast the backing plates and rear cover. Looks like the tubes and backing plates were originally painted black but the center section was natural cast. There is a remnant of the orange "E" on the top. Not much on the bottom. There are orange paint daubs on the bearing caps, where the tubes join the center section and underneath the mating surface of the spring perches.

[njsteve]

The new leaf springs arrived today. Dayton Spring 80-335 was on back order all over the country (this is the 1970-81 Trans Am specific leaf spring with 4 leaves). I was able to order them through Stengel Brothers Spring in Pennsylvania. They had them on sale for $104 per side. Rock Auto just got some in and they show $145.79 each plus shipping. I was able to pick up my springs directly at Stengel Brothers and save the shipping costs. I bought this same set five years ago for my 1972 black Formula and the car sat nicely with them.

http://www.stengelbros.net/80-335-Po...y-_p_2927.html

Now I can replace the old, worn out 5-leaf set up in the car that had too tall of a stack for the perches on the 1980 T/A rear. The lower shock mounting plate got all bent out of shape from being tightened around the 5 leaves. Luckily I was able to use my hydraulic press and get them flat again.

[Zman1969]

The portion of the bolt head with threads was holding the remaining portion of the retaining pin in place. He said the broken piece came out with a thin magnetic probe. He indicated that this was a common problem he has encountered over the years.

I have had good luck with a mechanics awl and "unscrew it" - it usually leaves 1/2 of a thread on what doesn't come out, just takes patience! some tool truck guys sell a kit to drill and use easy out, its a Allen head cap screw with hole drilled in it and a long bit both will work FYI
nice car Steve!

[njsteve]

I got the new four-leaf, Trans Am springs installed yesterday and the 3.08 geared rear end back in the car, today. The new springs fit the perches a lot nicer than the old five-leaf setup did. This 1980 T/A rear end was made for a four-leaf spring pack. I installed a pair of KYB GasAdjust shocks to match the fronts. Everything is hooked back up with the exception of the rear brakes. I bought a new set of ProThane rear sway bar bushings for the 9/16" bar but they don't make the correct large bushing for the one-bolt sway bar drop links (only for the 1970-73, two bolt/two-piece), so I had to re-use the original large bushings. For some reason they make the large bushings for the 5/8" and thicker rear bars in the one-bolt version but neglect the 9/16" bar???

I have a new set of brake shoes to go in and had a pair of new wheel cylinders sitting around so I used them since I noticed that the originals were leaking.

Tomorrow the brakes and the new speedometer gear get installed.

Here's how she looks now.

[njsteve]

I got the car on the road today after installing and bleeding the brakes, installing the new speedometer gear and housing, and doubling checking all the bolts. The vintage GM 3.08 gears are silent - no whine or howl. Very nice. And it is now 2,400 RPM at 60 mph, verified by the GPS.

While finishing up the brakes, I thought this was kind of neat: the original rear brake drums, still with planty of meat left on them. Dated "F 8 75".

[njsteve]

It was a busy weekend!

I sanded and repainted the top of the radiator support with black epoxy paint to get rid of the original "survivor" surface rust look.

I bought a set of the InlineTube reproduction fender to rad support bars and installed them.

I installed the shiny new repro brake booster and bled the front brakes.

I adjusted the parking brake which had been too loose after the rear end installation.

I also pulled the grills, sanded and repainted them using wheel paint sprayed from about a foot away so it gave a nice dry, sparkly finish like the original.

I cleaned the signal lenses and polished the chrome bezels, too.

And yeah, I added an old leftover "455HO" decal I had sitting around. The air cleaner looked too bare and needed something to spruce it up. And technically, the 455 does have the rods from my old 455HO in it... ;-)

After all that I put 5 gallons of aviation fuel in the tank to give her a treat.

I ordered a new ColdCase radiator which should be here tomorrow. Then the shroud comes out and gets refinished, too, during the installation process.

After all this work, I noticed that one of my AC/Delco spark plug wires was not working right when I checked them all with a timing light to chase down an intermittent miss. I checked my old receipts and it turns out that they are guaranteed for life, so Rock Auto is sending me a new set for the ones on the car that I bought in 2008!

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

TLC X100 :-)

Your cars have a good life:-)

Ryan

[njsteve]

Hey you gotta have something to play with. Gramma's car really handles nicely now. I may upgrade to some larger sway bars like a 1-1/4" front and 3/4" rear from a Trans Am/Formula since what is on the car was the luxury cruiser version with a 1" front and 9/16" rear sway bars.

[Xplantdad]

Great stuff Steve!:beers:

[njsteve]

I installed the ColdCase radiator today. An alltogether uneventful installation. :-)

I scrubbed the original shroud with soapy water, dried it, and then misted it with SEM Laundau Black vinyl paint and it looks just like new. The radiator went in fine. No issues at all other than the overflow nozzle points down at a 7:00 position when a 1973 and newer Firebird needs it at the 9:00 position for the overflow tube to route to the factory catch bottle properly. Not a big deal but I had to find a different section of hose as it was one size smaller nipple and the original hose was too big.

The car did run at around the same temperature as before - around 195 to 200 with a 160 thermostat. It was 80 degrees outside. I will replace the thermostat tomorrow after I test it in some hot water to see if it is actually opening at the correct temperature. I just tested two old 160 degree units on the stove in some hot water and they didn't open til at least 170 or more.

[njsteve]

I also got the warranty replacement Delco HEI wire set from rockauto. I ohm tested the old set and wire #3 was completely open. So it's been running on 7 cylinders. Runs even better on all 8 now with the new set (which I also ohm tested before installing).

[9999]

Could you tell me exactly what you used and how you did it for the radiator support? 2 stage or single?

It looks perfect, as far as shine/depth goes. I want to replicate it. Thank you very much.

[njsteve]

Actually. it was spray can, VHT Roll Bar and Chassis Satin Black epoxy paint. I got it at advanceautoparts.

[njsteve]

I swapped the thermostat and it runs at pretty much the same temperature - 190. I did test the thermostat on the stove with a thermometer and it does start to open around 160.

The funny thing is that the car runs cooler the faster you drive it! It pulls like a monster with those 3.08s from 35 to 100 mph. It pegs the factory 100 mph speedo in nothing flat...and the coolant temperature drops, the faster you go. At 100 mph the temp dropped to 170. (Allegedly, of course) ;-)

I think I need to swap out the 1975 100 mph speedometer for the rally gauge 160 speedometer. At least I wont worry about snapping the needle off.

[Xplantdad]

Awesome...allegedly!:cool2:

[njsteve]

I took gramma's car out today for a 117 mile cruise with my son. Mostly highway speeds. It was about 70 degrees out and at 75 MPH the temp was around 170. It moves up to around 190 in traffic but immediately resets to 170 when the car is moving again. The car cruises so smoothly with those 3.08s that my teenaged son fell asleep half way through the trip, even with the loud exhaust!

It did use around 3/4 of a tank, too! I think it gets around 8 MPG (highway). Your actual mileage may vary.

When we got home I changed the oil and filter as we just hit the magic 1,000 mile mark on the new 455.

[scuncio]

Nice work, love the car.

[earntaz]

I took gramma's car out today for a 117 mile cruise with my son. Mostly highway speeds. It was about 70 degrees out and at 75 MPH the temp was around 170. It moves up to around 190 in traffic but immediately resets to 170 when the car is moving again. The car cruises so smoothly with those 3.08s that my teenaged son fell asleep half way through the trip, even with the loud exhaust!

It did use around 3/4 of a tank, too! I think it gets around 8 MPG (highway). Your actual mileage may vary.

When we got home I changed the oil and filter as we just hit the magic 1,000 mile mark on the new 455.

If she is getting hot in traffic, you may want to check the thermo fan -- could be fubar ... TAZ

[njsteve]

Today I drove the gramma car to my buddy's gas station and we evacuated the A/C system and refilled it with R12. It now blows cold at 34 degrees! The coolant temp stays around 190 with the A/C on full blast.

I was thinking that the new heavy duty thermostatic clutch fan I bought last year must kick in around 190, hence the proclivity to run in that temp range at low speeds. Are the clutch fans adjustable to get them to kick in earlier?

[earntaz]

Just my opinion -- if you have replaced the fan clutch and the temp stays around 190 ... thats OK. TAZ

[njsteve]

I did a little research and it turns out that modern replacement fan clutches are set to engage at higher temps than the originals, so they can be used on a larger number of modern car application. You can adjust the thermostatic spring engagement temp lower if you move the outer spring starting point counterclockwise by a small amount. This thread deatils it: http://www.forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=776003&page=2

The first photo is the spring in the original factory location. The center valve only moves about 45 degrees to engage the internal valve and lock the clutch. I tested the spring with a head gun and a infrared thermometer and you could see the spring lengthen and turn the inner valve as it got hot around 190 or so.

Second photo shows the spring moved CCW to the left of the retaining location. When heated with the heat gun, it engaged at around 160-170 degrees. You can't just leave the spring like this as it will not disengage the valve if it is not retained in both directions of travel.

I fashioned a retaining clip out of a wiring retainer bracket so it encompassed the circular mount area as well as inside the circle through the original slot. I then used JB Weld to keep it in place.

The last photo shows another person's similar clip but on a rectangular mounting location on a different clutch.

Now, as I wait for the JB Weld to fully cure, I guess I'll give Gramma's car a well deserved wash, claybar and wax since I can't remember the last time I cleaned the outside of this car.

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

I love how you get to actual situation/issue/root cause:-)

Innocent until PROVEN guilty!!!

Ryan

[njsteve]

Guilty (allegedly, of course) ;-)

[njsteve]

Can't beat this for proof of the clutch fan spring modification:

Went for a 25 mile drive in the 83 degree heat with the A/C on max the entire time (38 degrees vent temp)

Photo 1 at cruising speed: 170 degrees

Photo 2 at a stoplight for a couple minutes: 175 degrees

Photo 3 beauty shot. :-)

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

Guilty (allegedly, of course) ;-)

Careful you are leading the witness with all kinds of alternative facts:-)

I love how you actually get to the root cause, very important but also very rare!!!

Ryan

[9999]

That car is absolutely beautiful, man I gotta get my projects going faster, hahaha.

[njsteve]

Brought her out to the first cruise night of the year on Saturday. Runs great and that A/C works chillingly nice. Here's a shot one of my friends took when I was wandering around.

[9999]

What paint did you use for the under hood area? Thanks a lot Steve.

[njsteve]

VHT Roll Bar and Chassis Satin Black epoxy paint. Great stuff!

[mockingbird812]

Smart looking Steve!

[whitetop]

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/nk15268/firebird75001b.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/nk15268/75%20Firebird/SDC10215.jpg


What color blue is the car? Looks great!

[njsteve]

It is 1970 to 1972, code 26 Lucerne Blue. I think Chevy called it Mulsanne Blue.

[njsteve]

I am thinking of changing things up a little this winter and swapping to a shaker hood for Gramma's car since the Formula hood is so warped in the middle. I have a perfect 1971/2 functional shaker lid and a usable base from a non-shaker air cleaner that donated its snorkels years ago. I just need to find a nice 1971 to 1976 hood now. (In case anyone near me in Jersey has one to spare.) Here's a couple photos of the shaker unit and the donor base. Once I source a couple of the mounting tabs that tack weld to the base so the shaker can attach, I can get it powder coated.

(ignore the color-matched cat)

[njsteve]

I was perusing craigslist last week and this Formula hood popped up within driving distance. It was selling cheap and it is not bowed! It has at least six layers of paint on it. So I guess I have another repair project to play with. It has some minor cracks around the defroster grills but at least all the ribs are still in place. It was a real project getting it in the Suburban and even worse getting it out. It took about 45 minutes with me and the kids trying to keyhole it out the back. I had to remove the rear hatch interior trim to gain an extra 1/2" of clearance. It was like it grew wider once it got in the back of the truck.

I borrowed a buddy's pressure washer on Saturday and cleaned the underside. It got all the old grease and gunk off very nicely.

[markinnaples]

Cool. Are you going to prep and paint the dual scoop Formula hood and then store it and put the shaker and hood on it for a while?

[njsteve]

For some reason it seems difficult to find a nice shaker hood at the moment. Shipping $$$ is big deal breaker. So I may just paint the Formula hood and use that. I figured it couldn’t pass this one up since it was relatively cheap and nearby.

[Craig_Maiorana]

Have you tried Ron from Potomac Pontiac? We used to buy tons of used stuff from him.. 301-668-0101

[njsteve]

I have not, but the $150 or so dollars to truck freight and then praying for it to arrive undamaged is what really hurts. I've never been able to get something that big and flat shipped without it arriving either more flatter or more curved than when it began the trip.

This Formula hood was just across the bridge in Delaware which was a leisurely 2 hour drive. Maryland isn't that far away...just one additional state further south.

[njsteve]

I spent some time out in the garage today with the 73. I used it as a the guinea pig for the 75.

I did some measuring on the inside of the donor air cleaner base and although the outside height is the same as a shaker air cleaner base, the inside height is not the same. The donor base does not have the "drop base" to sit low on the carb so the shaker will sit too high on this base and hit the hood if I try to use it.

So it looks like I will need to find an actual shaker base either a repro 70-72 or a 73 to 79 and add the two mounting tabs I got from Norwood.

Oh well...anybody got a used shaker base from a 73 to 79 sitting around in the attic?

[njsteve]

Just a reminder:
If you use Google Chrome, there is an add on that fixes the problem and displays the photos.

http://www.yenko.net/forum/showthrea...ghlight=Google

[njsteve]

I found a baseplate, a nice rust free one from a Performance Years member. It was from a late 70's T/A. I carefully removed the snorkel and then glass-beaded the entire baseplate. Painted it with VHT satin black epoxy paint. I attached Norwood's shaker lid brackets to the outer rim with a couple of screws and nuts, after carefully measuring and marking with it should go. I also had to move the square breather element hole to clear the passenger side bracket which was in the exact same spot.

Here's how it came out. Now I need to find that pesky 70-75 steel shaker hood.

[markinnaples]

Nice.

[9999]

Steve, what are the major differences in Trans Am hoods of the second generation? I would like to build a wanna-be 1970-1973 T/A.

[njsteve]

The 70 to 76 hoods’ body lines are externally the same with minor underside bracing differences. 77 to 81 have a flatter body line to mate up with the 77 and newer urethane nose.

[9999]

ahh, makes sense, Thank you for clarifying.

[njsteve]

Look what I picked up today! Thanks to a tip by BentwheelBob (the guy who owns my old Black 72 Formula), I just got back from North Jersey with this. It was listed on Facebook -it's a 1975 hood that was already stripped and primered (top and bottom). It is in really nice shape and was only 45 minutes away. It was half the price of the new repro hood and no shipping costs! Yay!

[KevinW]

Nice score, Steve!

[Burd]

Have you ever spoke to the Trans Am Reaper in the Chicago area? He specializes in early f body parts.