Need tips on taking a 454 Motor Out

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Hey guys tonight i sold my 454 NOM that is running in my Chevelle.
Over the Winter i will be rebuilding my original LS6 that will go back in when it is finished.

I will be needing your advice on what is the best way of taking out a motor with a M22 four speed attached to it.
It has been almost 20 years since i last did this and my muscles and bones are not what they used to be like so i am looking for the easiest method to go about taking a motor out.

I would like to know if it is best to take the motor out with the trans attached or un bolt the bellhousing and leave the tranny were it is.
The Transmission does not need any work done as it is fine but i would appreciate your advice.

Thanks Danny

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Tomorrow morning i will start with the removal of the Radiator/Hoses/Alternator and Headers.
Here is what the motor looks like now.
I will post my work for each day as i go along here.
Hopefully i can get a lot done before the Show this weekend <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

[Salvatore]

I always removed the trans first and then the motor. For me it was easier to line the trans back up after the motor was installed into the pilot bearing.

[ORIGLS6]

I'm with Sammy on this. Much easier to handle the engine alone, especially if you're using a 'cherry-picker'. Comes out easier and a WHOLE LOT easier to reinstall.

[XXXGoldL34M20]

OK
I will take the transmission out first.
Do i need to remove the Hood or will it clear with a Cherry picker?

[bergy]

Hood off, radiator out, headers off - I like lots of room!

[WILMASBOYL78]

Perhaps this is obvious..but, make sure you protect the fenders, body, etc. with covers and padding. It also a good idea to have a friend help when you pull the motor...that's a lot of weight on the hoist...make sure chains are secured properly...most of all go slow and be safe.

wilma

[Salvatore]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bergy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hood off, radiator out, headers off - I like lots of room! </div></div> That is the way you do it!

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Headers off,Radiator off and all the externals cleared away.
Not bad for a days work.
Only broke one part, the brake boosters plastic vacuum valve.
It was the original but it was so dry and brittel it just cracked in pieces.
Tommorrow i will take the drive shaft off, the rest of the exhaust system, take the hood off if my buddy comes by to help and then start on the Transmission.
Thanks for the tips guys.
Note, the Header is off on the drivers side but i will wait to pull that one while i raise the motor.
Man those headers were a major pain in the Arse. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

[TDW]

THROW THOSE JACK STANDS AWAY!!!!!!!!!!

Those are the worst jack-stands ever made! Do not go under the car using only those stands.

I burried a good friend because of those pieces of junk.

Get a good set of the 4 leg, cast ones. You will not regret it.

[WILMASBOYL78]

Where are the fender covers..??

ditto on the stands..those are dangerous!

Good luck..wilma

Mark the hood location (lightly scribe around the hood hinges...or...use a felt marker) so you know where it goes when putting everything back together. Wrap a couple of small sections of 2X4 with towel and place them under the back edge of the hood so it doesn't come crashing backwards into the cowl when you remove the four bolts on the hinges.

When pulling the trans, don't forget to support the engine (blocked up under the oil pan works).

Ditto what the other guys said on the fender covers and axle stands. I'd use an extra fender cover on the rad support. Watch the engine so it doesn't go backward and whack the firewall as it comes out (don't laugh...it happens).

Did you drain the block? If not, you'll have antifreeze all over the place, including your shoes. I hate it when that happens because it makes the floor slippery.

If you have a rental cherry picker, watch for one that doesn't settle down slowly. You could be in for a bit of a surprise...L-O-L.

Have fun...and I hate to tell you this now, but I suspect you've taken off way more than necessary to get it out (but that'll make it easier). <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/smile.gif

Wayne

[TDW]

When I take the driveshaft out, I take some masking tape and wrap the caps on the u-joint together. Keeps them from falling off and all the rollers spilling out on the floor.

[njsteve]

You also need either an extra driveshaft yoke or a tailshaft plug to keep all the trans fluid in the trans and not on your floor. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/scholar.gif


A plastic bag and rubber bands just won't work... I can tell ya from experience as a kid, thinking that was a great idea...until the bag filled up completely when the trans went to a 45 degree angle on the cherry picker and the bag exploded like a giant water balloon. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/rolleyes.gif

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Thanks guys.
Before that photo was taken i took off the fender covers as i will be under the car the next day,so no need for them till i take off the hood.
Those stands are crappy but i put 2 hydraulic pumps right up by them when i am under the car for extra security.
Good tip on the wood behind the hood removal and i will tape those u-joint circles to keep them in place.
I will drain the trans fluid before i remove it.

Will update tommorrow.

[SuperNovaSS]

The transmission should be OK I would think since it is a 4 speed. Automatics due tend to spill their guts when suspended. Things are looking good.

Jason

[XXXGoldL34M20]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SuperNovaSS</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The transmission should be OK I would think since it is a 4 speed. Automatics due tend to spill their guts when suspended. Things are looking good.

Jason </div></div>
Thats what i thought Jason,
Years ago when i had to rebuild an M20 out of a 1965 Corvett--when i took the trans out it did not leak nothing?
Maybe the other guy that commented did not notice i posted my car having a 4 speed M22 and thought it was an automatic.
Good one less thing to do.

[markjohnson]

Man, I gotta agree with Tony about those jack stands! I'll never forget seeing my dad's beautiful Red '62 Bel Air 409 Bubbletop collapse toward the garage wall and floor when one of those cheap, stamped steel jack stands just split like a banana peel! Luckily, no one was underneath the car and the it survived but it was extremely scary. We immediately threw away every pair of stamped steel jack stands that were in the garage and paid good money for new quality sets. Anyway, do you have one of those lift plates that you can bolt to the carburetor pad to hold the motor up while you pull the trans? It also looks like there's a lot of Anti-freeze in the block still and you should consider pulling the TWO small pipe plugs that are just under the motor mounts on each side and just barely above the oil pan rail. This will drain out about 95% of all the coolant and prevent a mess. Oh yeah, if you have any pets, please be careful with any spilled Anti-freeze. Dogs go nuts for that stuff and just a lick or two can cause a real family tragedy. Good luck!

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Thanks Mark
I will get rid of those jacks, enough of you warned me and it is time to toss them.
Good tip on the antifreeze, i will do that tomorrow.
Yes i have my little Dog Chicklet and she means the world to me not being able to have kids. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

[njsteve]

On the antifreeze/pets issue: That stuff splashes everywhere. Once your done in the garage, immediately throw your work clothes into the washing machine. Do not wear the shoes into the house that you were wearing in the garage. The antifreeze will soak into the soles/fabric and the dog will chew the shoes with the same very bad results. I have my designated garage boots that stay out in the garage for just that purpose. (Also the wife will kill me if I track grease onto the tile floor just one more time).

[Plowman]

It looks good but a trick I did is to take all of the Bellhousing bolts out,you can get to them with the distribtor out now. This way you can separate it at the block and bellhousing when you go to pull the engine out,put a floor jack under the trans to keep it up. This way you won't have to touch the trans,shifter,cross-member and speed&quot;O&quot;cable. The clutch and flywheel this way will stay on the back of the engine. Pull the engine up then jack up the floor jack,on the trans,then pull engine forward,when the engine clears the moter mounts,pull up and out. Hope this helps. *Paul

[napa68]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TDW</div><div class="ubbcode-body">THROW THOSE JACK STANDS AWAY!!!!!!!!!!

Those are the worst jack-stands ever made! Do not go under the car using only those stands.

I burried a good friend because of those pieces of junk.

Get a good set of the 4 leg, cast ones. You will not regret it. </div></div>

x2! Those may be good for a 2000lb Toyota, but not a 3600lb Supercar! I love the colors of your car BTW!

Tim

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Motor is now ready to be picked.

---I did a Charley with the hose job.
I got left over washer hose and slid it into the water jackets and sifened all the sweet stuff out, now i know why Dogs like that stuff as it is sweet tasting.LOL do not worry i tasted the antifreeze and spit it out before i swallowed.
---Hood was removed and placed on the roof.
---Removed all the Exhaust except for the drivers side Header which will fall down when i raise the motor.
---I went with PLOWMAN'S advice to leave the transmission in and i put pieces of wood under the trans so it does not move or drop as i slide the motor forward. The bell housing bolts are off and i will be carefull to move forward with the cherry picker so the input shaft does not get harmed.
I double and triple checked everything and i am good to go cherry picking <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif
Thanks for all the help guys.

[P.J.]

Dan
they make a lifting bracket that fits on the carb bolts
that has a center lift hole. I have one somewhere .
I have never lifted a motor with one of those brackets.
Maybe some one can chime in to advise
PJ

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Na,
I will do it the old fashioned way off the tow hooks were the studs run into cast iron.
Can you really trust 4 studs that are attached to aluminum?

[TDW]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: XXXBlackLs6M22</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Na,
I will do it the old fashioned way off the tow hooks were the studs run into cast iron.
Can you really trust 4 studs that are attached to aluminum? </div></div>

I use the carb lifting plate all the time. I always pull and install the engine and trans together. Also have installed my hemi with a richmond 5 speed hooked to it using the plate. I don't use the studs, I take them out and use grade 8 bolts instead.

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Well today was a beautifull day for removing the Motor out of my car.
Everything thing went well.
Special thanks to Paul &quot;Plowman&quot; for personally calling me and giving me great tips on how to remove the engine without harming the M22 manual trans input shaft.
Upon further inspection i may pull the trans out without the motor as the rear main seal has a very slow leak and i want to install a new seal before the freshly rebuilt motor goes back.
I will show photos later of the clutch/flywheel and presure plate, want to get your opinion if i should replace these parts.

[ORIGLS6]

Not much clean-up needed in that engine compartment. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

Honestly, I wouldn't do much except a light cleaning. If you do decide to touch up with some satin black, be careful and don't cover up any 'history'. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/wink.gif

[XXXGoldL34M20]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ORIGLS6</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Not much clean-up needed in that engine compartment. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

Honestly, I wouldn't do much except a light cleaning. If you do decide to touch up with some satin black, be careful and don't cover up any 'history'. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/wink.gif </div></div>

You bet Dennis,
I am just wiping everything down and will only spray some satin black were it needs it along the bottom main frame.
Don't worry everything that should not be painted will be covered or masked with tape as i do not like evidence of rattle can over spray. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif
a few more days and Chicago here i come!!

[Plowman]

Way to go and always will give help. Thank you. *Paul

[bergy]

Great job!!! I always have the flywheel surfaced, replace clutch assy &amp; throw out bearing. Maybe wasting $$, but it's not gonna be taken apart for a long time (hopefully).

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Well after getting back from the MCACN this weekend i took out the Transmission,Drive Shaft and Crossmember.
It is time to start rebuilding the LS6 and re-unite the original motor after sitting for nearly 20 years in pieces.
I will start a new thread soon on all my LS6 parts and details that i will capture with photos.
For now the Rebuild starts and i already started cleaning and detailing all the parts and the engine compartment.
I decided to not rebuild the brake booster and leave it as it survives. Wires are very clean considering they are over 40 years old. I cleaned up the Frame without disturbing the original brake lines etc..
The Original Windsheild Washer assembly/motor just needed a tiny scrub down with a tiny wire brush.
Car is a partial survivor that was painted once in 1984 still wearing it's original Vinyl roof and it has never had a frame off done.Still has all original Brake Lines/Fuel Lines/2 piece rotors and riveted Steering arms,so i will not over do it with this rebuild keeping some things still in it's survivor stage. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif