1970 Chevelle SS 454 LS6 Rebuild + Details

[XXXGoldL34M20]

This thread continues from were i left off on the previous thread topic on "Need tips on taking a 454 Motor Out"
http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=467552#Post4675 52

I will slowly show photos and details on rebuilding the Motor and it's surrounding parts.
I will also ask questions as i go along and ask to help identify parts.
All your opinions and tips will be much appreciated as you guys are a great help as always in guiding me in the right direction <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

[XXXGoldL34M20]

First Off is the Engine bay without the Motor.
If you spot anything that does not jive, let me know.
The Brake booster has never been off the car so it stays as a survivor part with it's faded silver color (i know it should be Gold Cad plated).
The Windshield Washer Motor also seems to be a survivor so i will also leave that alone.
Wires just needed a good clean up and there were no splits or rewired pieces to be found (only had to ad a new wiring connection for the -Negative wire for the Tach Brown wire that goes to the coil as the other Connection plug was hooked up for the former HEI ignition system.
Original Brake lines were polished with a wire brush and then sprayed with Krown T40 protection.

[John Brown]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: XXXBlackLs6M22</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
.....The Brake booster has never been off the car so it stays as a survivor part with it's faded silver color (<span style="font-weight: bold">i know it should be Gold Cad plated</span>).</div></div>

I've seen pictures of new cars delivered with silver brake boosters.... they were on Nova and Camaro though, so Chevelle may be different.

[XXXGoldL34M20]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: John Brown</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: XXXBlackLs6M22</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
.....The Brake booster has never been off the car so it stays as a survivor part with it's faded silver color (<span style="font-weight: bold">i know it should be Gold Cad plated</span>).</div></div>

I've seen pictures of new cars delivered with silver brake boosters.... they were on Nova and Camaro though, so Chevelle may be different. </div></div>
Here are some close up details of the Brake Booster with Part#/Julian Date and upside down Delco Moraine logo.
Car's final assembly date was April 23 1970 as per Build Sheet.

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Here is the LS6 Smog with Exhaust manifolds Restored and ready to go.
Some numbers i can't figure out?
Also let me know if these are all correct smog parts for the LS6 (Pretty sure they are but i just want to confirm).
All the smog hoses and clamps are the originals.
The picture of the Exhauast shows i grinded off the flap, Drilled a small hole and added a cotter pin to keep the side of the bar from sliding, I figured why bother having the heat riser with the flap if the car never gets used on cold days!
The Exhaust heat riser will still operate but with no Flap in the damn way (free flow all the time).

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Exhaust Manifolds Bead blasted and VHT baked on the BBQ.
Came out fantastic,you can not scratch this stuff off as it baked right into the pours of the metal.
Both manifolds are dated the same.
Bottom picture was taken before the manifold was blasted and painted,so you can see they were not in bad shape at all.

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Here is the Smog Pulley

[Mr70]

Do you need a white SMOG fan?
Your SMOG Pump shows an assembly date of March 19th,1970.
I know you said you have an April 23rd car,but what's your engines' assembly date?

[XXXGoldL34M20]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mr70</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Do you need a white SMOG fan?
Your SMOG Pump shows an assembly date of March 19th,1970.
I know you said you have an April 23rd car,but what's your engines' assembly date? </div></div>
The Fan is white underneath the Pulley, Is that the fan you are talking about? if so i do not need it.
Can you tell me were you got the March 19th date From the smog?
(Which Photo)
Engine assembly date is March 26 On the front of the block and March 5 Casting at the rear of the block.

[Mr70]

Yeah..that's the fan.
March 19th comes from your 07801S code on the machined pad.

[XXXGoldL34M20]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mr70</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yeah..that's the fan.
March 19th comes from your 07801S code on the machined pad. </div></div>
Sorry to ask but i am still learning something new about these cars everyday.
How did you get March 19 from 07801S
Is 078 a julian date for 78th day of 1970, also what does 01S mean? 1970 first shift?

[Mr70]

078=78th day
0=year,1970
1=shift
S=Saginaw

[XXXGoldL34M20]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mr70</div><div class="ubbcode-body">078=78th day
0=year,1970
1=shift
S=Saginaw </div></div>
Thank You very Much Mr70.
I will be doing a photo file for my car so to fill in all these blanks will be great. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Carb was sent to Jeff Dotterer by the previous owner.
It is Rebuilt with high quality and ready to be reunited to the low rise intake (it also came with a certificate from Jeff).
Here are photos of the Cowl Induction Air cleaner system.
Does anyone know what that &quot;W&quot; stamp means that is under the cowl spacer retainer?
The cowl induction Rubber seal is a NOS GM piece.
Also what does the &quot;L&amp;T&quot; mean under the intake on the splash pan.

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Still would like to know what that &quot;W&quot; stamp means that is under the cowl spacer retainer?
Also what does the &quot;L&amp;T&quot; mean under the intake on the splash pan?

Moving on to the next item is the Fan/Clutch/Shroud and Pulley.

[Rixls6]

I think your fan shroud is the later service replacement.
The originals had a cast-in part number that ended with &quot;165&quot;

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Rick you are correct,
It is an over the counter NOS GM unit 3rd design shroud.
Any Idea what the &quot;W&quot; logo means under the Cowl retainer means or the &quot;L&amp;T&quot; logo on the intake splash pan?

[m22mike]

I see that &quot;W&quot; on some fan's and other misc. stuff, think it is just a vendor stamp ?

[Rixls6]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: m22mike</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I see that &quot;W&quot; on some fan's and other misc. stuff, think it is just a vendor stamp ? </div></div>

I'm with Mike on that, as well as the L&amp;T on the splash pan, but not really sure.
There are quite a few parts on these cars that have various odd letter stamps and some of them have been figured out to be just that, Vendor stamps.

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Thanks guys,
I know they are vendor stamps but was interested to know what company &quot;W&quot; + &quot;L&amp;T&quot; are.
Maybe &quot;W&quot; is Winters?
I am sure someone knows who these vendors are, kind of interested to know what all the logos mean since i am documenting every part with a photo and description in a file i will keep with the car. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif
Most of the questions i will ask on this thread are ones that i could not get from GOOGLE searches, I tried but could not find any past discussions on these logos.

[m22mike]

I dought Winters made stuff like sheet metal parts, As you may know Winters was a foundry here in Canton Ohio.

Mike

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Monday night i hired my engine builder and i decided to go with Roller rockers and lifters for better durabilty from the engine. I will also be using Flat top pistons to achieve a compression ratio of 10-1 or 10-5 as i want to run 94 premium gas from a gas station without always putting in an additive.
I will also install the Pretronix kit under the stock distributor cap.
The stock dimple rods will be used again and i all ready Sold the Used pistons a few weeks back.
I plan to drive my car a lot so this set up makes more sence for my tastes.
Car will still make a lot of ponies and look bone stock under the hood<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif
For the Exhaust i will be using the stock 69' Chambered exhaust system that came on the car as i just love the sound these make.

[WILMASBOYL78]

You may be pushing the issue with 10 or 10.5 to 1 compression with pump gas and iron heads...of course a modern design roller cam (I assume hydraulic?)would help. I would be interested in more of the build specifics you have in de-tuning the motor for street use...sounds like a great project.

wilma

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Wilma we know this, the motor rebuilder has done a lot of Big Block Gm Motors and he knows what to do to make it run right.
Yes he will be using Hydraulic Roller cam with lifters and rockers.
He will decide on the specs after all the measurements are done and dialed in.
I will post what parts i am using when the motor starts in 2 weeks time.
Looking forward to putting this LS6 back to life.
Every part will be brand new except for the LS6 rods.
Block is at .30 over and heads are bone stock, crank is a stock 7416 piece.

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Here are the gm Dimple Rods and Harmonic Balancer.
The Harmonic Balancer is now sand plasted with a shot of primer since photo.

[MosportGreen66]

Why not leave the solid lifters in there? Just curious...

[XXXGoldL34M20]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MosportGreen66</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Why not leave the solid lifters in there? Just curious... </div></div>

I still may go with solid lifters yet,
Will decide in a few weeks when it is time to choose a cam.
The solid lifters roller Rocker arms have the lockers on the top so once they are set they should not be a hassle to adjust.
They also make more power i guess.

Wondering what everyone else has done here with there hi performance motors?

I just want to build a nice running motor that will be low maintenance and run good on 94 octane pump gas.

My 2-cents?

If it was mine, I sure wouldn't be messing around with a hydraulic roller or clipping the compression. Running the valves, checking plugs, chasing the timing and playing with the Holley is part of the fun from my perspective. But that's me I guess. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif

Wayne

[TDW]

All of my hi-po engines have solids. They do not need to be adjusted all the time. I have 5000 miles on a 427, with only one valve lash. My bone stock L78 has thousands of miles on it too, with no valve lash in years. Even my old 392 Hemi hasn't needed a lash yet.

[MosportGreen66]

Its part of the fun. And frankly what good is an LS6 without the noise of the motor?

[Postsedan]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TDW</div><div class="ubbcode-body">All of my hi-po engines have solids. They do not need to be adjusted all the time. I have 5000 miles on a 427, with only one valve lash. My bone stock L78 has thousands of miles on it too, with no valve lash in years. Even my old 392 Hemi hasn't needed a lash yet. </div></div>

I agree 100%

Dan

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Ok Guys,
I am going with <span style="color: #FF0000">Solid lifters</span>.
Still havent ordered my cam,lifters,rockers,pushrods etc...
so lots of time to order the parts.
Here is the original Distributor restored by Jeff Dotterer with certificate.
Also photos of my Original Alternator.
Yesterday i was busy restoring the Wiper Washer Motor which came out fantastic,i will post photos later of that piece.

Question, Does anyone know what the &quot;DSL&quot; logo means on the Waterpump to Alternator bracket?
Also why does this bracket have a special fitting in it,is it a support hole for the smog pump?

[Donnie]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: XXXBlackLs6M22</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Monday night i hired my engine builder and i decided to go with Roller rockers and lifters for better durabilty from the engine. I will also be using Flat top pistons to achieve a compression ratio of 10-1 or 10-5 as i want to run 94 premium gas from a gas station without always putting in an additive.
I will also install the Pretronix kit under the stock distributor cap.
The stock dimple rods will be used again and i all ready Sold the Used pistons a few weeks back. </div></div>

<span style="font-weight: bold">I wouldnt change any of this. if you have your distributor set up right you wont have any problems.</span>

[Steven J]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: XXXBlackLs6M22</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Question, Does anyone know what the &quot;DSL&quot; logo means on the Waterpump to Alternator bracket? </div></div>

digital subscriber line

[Donnie]

Also why does this bracket have a special fitting in it,is it a support hole for the smog pump?

<span style="font-weight: bold">its a bushing, so the alt. belt lines up.</span>

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Thank you Donnie and Steve for that Info.

Donnie i am sticking to build the motor just like that &quot;quote&quot; i stated but will use the solid lifters though.
Nothing can change my mind about the flat top pistons and lower compression though, last motor i had running in there was a pain in the a@@ with the 11:25 to 1 compression, car would not run right with 94 octane and every fill up for gas i had to mix about 25$ worth of Very High Octane just to get the right gas. I really hated bringing that Cherry can in my trunk and paying $125 for each fill up.
At least with the Original LS6 rebuilt to my tastes i can drive in peace and just go to the gas station to get gas like everyone else. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

[TDW]

Are you going to use roller-tipped rocker arms? I like them myself.

[m22mike]

Have you looked at using soids with the EDM oiling hole ? Cheap insurance.
Tibor did is own EDM holes, spoiled brat.. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/naughty.gif

Like these
http://www.compcams.com/catalog/COMP2011/pdf/COMP_Catalog_2011_278-279.pdf

[quik9r]

EDM is a great idea. Who did you hire to build the motor?

Quik9r

[XXXGoldL34M20]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TDW</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Are you going to use roller-tipped rocker arms? I like them myself. </div></div>

Yes

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: m22mike</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Have you looked at using soids with the EDM oiling hole ? Cheap insurance.
Tibor did is own EDM holes, spoiled brat.. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/naughty.gif

Like these
http://www.compcams.com/catalog/COMP2011/pdf/COMP_Catalog_2011_278-279.pdf </div></div>

Yes

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: quik9r</div><div class="ubbcode-body">EDM is a great idea. Who did you hire to build the motor?

Quik9r </div></div>

The motor builder is a local guy here in Bolton Ontario, His name is Gus and he has done a lot of motors that are friends of mine and nothing but good has been said about his work <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

Sorry, but I don't get it. I think you've gone to a lot of trouble to document a very, very nice LS6. But dropping the CR takes away much of what makes up the 1970 LS6. If it was me (and of course, it isn't -- it's your car and you can do what you wish, however you did solicit opinions), I'd be mixing gas. I'd ask myself how much do I really drive this thing a year. Five hundred miles? A thousand miles? How much trouble is it to buy some race fuel and mix it?

Wayne

[TDW]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: m22mike</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Have you looked at using soids with the EDM oiling hole ? Cheap insurance.
Tibor did is own EDM holes, spoiled brat.. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/naughty.gif

Like these
http://www.compcams.com/catalog/COMP2011/pdf/COMP_Catalog_2011_278-279.pdf </div></div>

When I was looking for the EDM lifters, the Comp ones were made in China. They may not be now, but you need to check first. The only American made ones that I found were from Howards Cams.

[XXXGoldL34M20]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hotrodsled</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Sorry, but I don't get it. I think you've gone to a lot of trouble to document a very, very nice LS6. But dropping the CR takes away much of what makes up the 1970 LS6. If it was me (and of course, it isn't -- it's your car and you can do what you wish, however you did solicit opinions), I'd be mixing gas. I'd ask myself how much do I really drive this thing a year. Five hundred miles? A thousand miles? How much trouble is it to buy some race fuel and mix it?

Wayne

</div></div>
Some guys get it and some guys don't, in the end i will be building the motor to my taste.
You have to do what makes you happy not others and i just hate having that high octane fuel sitting around my house and then bringing it with me before i fill the tank.
Car will still perform great when i am done.
I know some of you disagree with me but what can i say,in the end it is me that has to be happy with my decisions. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

[1969L78Nova]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: XXXBlackLs6M22</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thank you Donnie and Steve for that Info.

Donnie i am sticking to build the motor just like that &quot;quote&quot; i stated but will use the solid lifters though.
Nothing can change my mind about the flat top pistons and lower compression though, last motor i had running in there was a pain in the a@@ with the 11:25 to 1 compression, car would not run right with 94 octane and every fill up for gas i had to mix about 25$ worth of Very High Octane just to get the right gas. I really hated bringing that Cherry can in my trunk and paying $125 for each fill up.
At least with the Original LS6 rebuilt to my tastes i can drive in peace and just go to the gas station to get gas like everyone else. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif </div></div>

Danny,
Did you try playing around with the timing...My stock L78 11: 1 compression runs great on 94 octane. I would'nt think that an additional .25 compression would make that much difference.

[/quote]
Some guys get it and some guys don't, in the end i will be building the motor to my taste.
You have to do what makes you happy not others and i just hate having that high octane fuel sitting around my house and then bringing it with me before i fill the tank.
Car will still perform great when i am done.
I know some of you disagree with me but what can i say,in the end it is me that has to be happy with my decisions. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif
[/quote]

Well you're the one who asked for opinions. I gave you mine. If you have a gas lawn mower (leaf blower, generator, chain saw, etc.) and you store fuel for it, it's just as dangerous. 87 octane is no less &quot;dangerous&quot; than 115 race fuel.

And we agree, its your car, so do whatever you want.

Wayne

[/quote]
When I was looking for the EDM lifters, the Comp ones were made in China. They may not be now, but you need to check first. The only American made ones that I found were from Howards Cams.[/quote]

Have you tried Trend Performance (sister company to Diamond Pistons)?

Wayne

[quik9r]

Last set I got were isky. I am 10.5 to 1, solid lifter, pure stock and have run the 94 octane for 20 years, no issue. Build it so at least is goes down the track and doesn't become another cream puff with &quot;500&quot; hp.

[Unreal]

I put my 499 in a box, and used a Dave's Small Body HEI, which he fits into a standard aluminum distributor body. Since he has to machine the underside flat, I bought a nothing body on ebay for $5 and sent it to him. The reason I replaced my Pertroncs unit was stories of unreliability, and Dave uses components that can be replaced at regular auto parts store, if you have a problem. I think the pickup at least is actually late model Chrysler.

[TDW]

Why do you guys prefer the electronic ignition over the points type? I use points and never have problems. The Mallory electronic I had broke down on me.

[Thomas]

I did the cam and lifters in a 11.0 to 1 CR 427 in my '69 last winter.

At the recommendation of my performance shop, I went with a set of Comp Cams solid lifters with the oiling hole in the bottom. I think these are the EDM lifters everyone is referring to.

I do not remember the exact number of the Comp Cams cam, but I thinkit is the Extreme Energy series 274S.
I can check if anyone is interested.

I could not be happier with this setup.
I run Sunoco Ultra 94 without any issues.

With a M22 and 4.11's in the rear, the car will spin the tires in any gear and pulls until I run out of nerve and have to back out of the throttle.

I use the stock 499 distributor with a set of Accel performance points and a Blaster Coil.
I have not had any issues running points and the stock distributor since I bought the car in '96.

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Guys thank you for all your suggestions,opinions and comments on the engine.
I will definetly run this thread by my engine builder and see what direction i will go with when the engine rebuild starts in a week or so.
I will let everyone know what parts i will go with later on in this thread.

Next is the Transmission.
I was thinking on using a Center Force Clutch package for my M22 with 11&quot; Clutch and 26 Tooth spline.
The one i took out of the car has no identification as to what company the Clutch package was but it did run well.
What are you guys running for your M22 as far as the Clutch assembly goes. I will be going with a new Clutch/Pressure plate/pilot bearing and bushing as it makes sence to have a new unit go along with a rebuilt Motor.
Here are photos of the trans etc...

[XXXGoldL34M20]

one more photo.
Note :: The transmission has the original Muncie shifter and rods.
Yes i know it sucks but it's there and i will leave it alone.
The Hurst assembly is a much better shifter but i kind of got used to the old Muncie and it is nice to have it original. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/smile.gif

[CDNL-78]

Hello Danny

My L-78, other then .30 over pistons, has the original compression, and I put in the crane cam, that is the same as factory spec. This would be the same came for the LS6. I love this stick. You can't beat the sound of a solid lifter cam either. After break in this spring, I put about 500 miles on the nova, and re-set them. All was good when I parked it with about 1000 miles of driving this year.
The gas I run locally is 94 octane. I prefer Mohawk gas, I`m not sure if you have them over your way. The timing is where it needs to be, and doesn`t detonate. I`m not sure what the timing is set at, sorry.
Your car, do what you feel is correct for your driving pleasure. I just want to tell you I haven`t had any issues with the compression, and solid lifter stick with local gas. Keep us posted on your final decissions.
<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif

[Survivor 69/Z28]

This is such a great post to follow. Thanks for posting all of these great pictures of the progress!! The Pertronix works like a champ. I also agree with your reasoning behind dropping the compression a tad and driving this thing. I respect the purist with all of the engine internals being at spec etc... But it’s so easy to get big HP on a bone stock appearing BB without the ultra high compression these days.

[XXXGoldL34M20]

WOW &quot;Survivor 69/Z28&quot;
i just clicked on your links in your signature,
Your LS5 Chevelle is also triple black like mine, Nice car!!!
Your Z-28 is a beauty too.

Darcy thanks for your post about the specs on your L78 Nova.

Today i did talk to my Motor Rebuilder and discussed what was said here. We are making some changes <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif
We will be gunning for more compression at a tad under 11:1 we will be shopping to get pistons that will deliver about 10.5 to 10.9 compression at .30 over for the bore.
So far i will be going with the Lunati #20202 Solid cam stick (i had this cam running my other LS6 motor and it was Awesome).
The Lifters i will use is the Howards 91118 EDM Solid Lifters.
I will give more details as i go along but that is it for now as i have a lot more parts to pick and choose. My rebuilder also assured me that when he is done with the motor it will easily pull about 500 to 550 HP <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif To me that is more than enough for the street.

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Today i routed my TCS vacum lines and i had to make the top pipe from scratch as it was missing for some reason.
I had plenty of pipe and hoses kicking around so i made it myself.
I think it came out rather well.
Below are photos just incase someone else has to do this for there car. It sure is a lot of small parts to hook up.
Also included photos of the other cool stuff that hooks up to the fuel lines etc...
I pre fitted everything today to make sure its all good.

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Ran out of room for the photo of the NOS fuel pump.
Here it is along with other small stuff.
Does anyone know what the number is on the engine lift?
A few of my numbers are to pitted to read properly.

[Mr70]

Nice parts/pics..those aren't LS-6 specific engine lift bkts.,as all 1970 Big Blocks used them.

[XXXGoldL34M20]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mr70</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Nice parts/pics..those aren't LS-6 specific engine lift bkts.,as all 1970 Big Blocks used them. </div></div>

Thanks Rick,
I figured out the part number for the front lift which is 3969829 <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif
These would be used for all the Big Block Motors like you said.

[MosportGreen66]

Good detail shots! Send the bellhousing to Jerry MacNeish and having him reskin it. Shoot it half orange with a dusting of overspray onto the other half.

The 660 thermostat with #s on the base of the unit is for a pre 1968 Hi-Po Chevy. Your #s should be on the neck on the thermostat. I have a late one if you'd like to trade?

Dan

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Reskin bellhousing <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/hmmm.gif
Never heard of that, is it a sand blast?

Thanks for the offer Dan to trade for the Thermostat housing but i will keep mine as i do not mind that the number is correct but on the wrong location.

Yesterday i sand blasted the hood hindges as they were black in color, they took me 2 hours a piece to do but the end result is fantastic.
I left them raw and just rubbed in a clear coat of tremclad rust paint with a clean cloth. Here are more photos of the rebuilt Regulator and other stuff like the Horn/Buzzard Relay,NOS Spark plugs,Starter,Battery Cables Etc...

[mockingbird812]

&quot;Reskinning&quot; is Jerry Macneish's proprietary process of cleaning the aluminum surface and then putting something on there to seal aluminum. I have a few pieces on my Nova that Jerry did. Looks real good, can't say how well it holds up or lasts, though.

[WILMASBOYL78]

&quot;Buzzard Relay&quot;...I thought he was talking about a road race with Cumby <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/rolleyes.gif

wilma

[Rixls6]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: WILMASBOYL78</div><div class="ubbcode-body">&quot;Buzzard Relay&quot;...I thought he was talking about a road race with Cumby <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/rolleyes.gif

wilma </div></div>

<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/haha.gif

[ORIGLS6]

Bring it on Speedy.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m57/dmcumby/wylie-coyote-1.gif

[XXXGoldL34M20]

You old Buzzards You <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/laugh.gif

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Here are the freshly re done Hood Hindges that took me 2 hours a piece to sand blast.
The raw hood hindge metal is protected by Tremclad clear rust paint that i rubbed in with a clean cloth.

Question ??
I pulled a Purple/Black wire with an end connector from the back of the cowl wiring gutter, what was the purpose of this wire?

<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gifLike the fresh weekend pass hanging on the wall from this years MCACN show <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/naughty.gif

[Mr70]

That purple/black wire connects to the Transmission Controlled Spark #3961573 kick down relay rivited to the gutter.
Of the 3 terminals on the gutter mounted relay,it fits to the passenger side terminal,nearest the firewall.
The wire should have a female end to slide onto the male spade.

http://www.opgi.com/common/CH28222.jpg

[XXXGoldL34M20]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mr70</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That purple/black wire connects to the Transmission Controlled Spark #3961573 kick down relay rivited to the gutter.
Of the 3 terminals on the gutter mounted relay,it fits to the passenger side terminal,nearest the firewall.
The wire should have a female end to slide onto the male spade.

http://www.opgi.com/common/CH28222.jpg </div></div>
Thanks Rick,
so it would go like this correct?
I wonder why the last owner did not have it connected?
Also photo shows the pedal wires, is everything correct down there?

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Rick i just took my Wire gutter off to have a closer look underneath.
I do not have a fourth connection like that smaller photo you included, maybe the connector broke off? Does not have any signs of being broken off.
Maybe the four speed cars were a different unit than an automatic one. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/hmmm.gif

[SS427]

The third spade is broken off. It would be in the upper right corner of your picture and would be on the opposite end of the metal strip that is riveted to the bakelite.

Because of this you cannot connect it correctly. The black/pink wire should go to that missing terminal end. Where you have it now is actually a locating tab that the two prong connector mounts up against. However, it will still function correctly where you have it.

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Thanks Rick,
Now i know why the last owner tucked that wire away in the Wire gutter.
I'll have to live with the Broken one for now until i find a good used one still rivited to the original wire gutter.
At least it will work hooked up like i showed in my photo as i see it runs to the same connection. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif
Time to make an Ebay Search.

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Today i got my Reproduction Wiper Motor Sticker in the mail.
Thank you Don Lightfoot, Nice Job on the Sticker.

I Stuck it over my original faded sticker after restoring the entire motor with a sponge sander,elbow grease and i final clean up with a Metal cleaner called Luster Pad. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/burnout.gif

[87gnsurvivor]

Hey Danny
Nice Job on the details, this post is very helpfull for me as i am restoring my chevelle.
The Photo you have of the Wiper Motor helped me finish wrapping the repro wires to factory specs.
Keep up the good post.
Do you have any photos of the Radiator, i would like to see what that looks like.
Thanks.

[XXXGoldL34M20]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 87gnsurvivor</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hey Danny
Nice Job on the details, this post is very helpfull for me as i am restoring my chevelle.
The Photo you have of the Wiper Motor helped me finish wrapping the repro wires to factory specs.
Keep up the good post.
Do you have any photos of the Radiator, i would like to see what that looks like.
Thanks. </div></div>
Thanks, i see you are new to the SCR welcome.
Sure i can post my Radiator for you, also will include the NOS Water pump. Original Radiator was rebuilt by the last owner just before i bought the car. He added an &quot;IF&quot; side tank to go to a 4 core but i also recieved the &quot;IA&quot; side tank with the car. If you look closely there was a repair done Just over the &quot;H&quot; were the &quot;Harrison&quot; Logo is.
Last Motor ran super cool with a 160 degree thermostat and the 4 core system. I will re-install it the way it is set up now. The LS6 is an original 3:31 Geared car so it does not have the tab on the top Rad cover but the bottom does have the extension tab on the drivers side rad cradle frame.

[Nova Research Project]

Just to keep this thread complete, here is the date code on your 3961573 TCS relay.

Greg

http://chevynova.org/hidden/3961573%200-3.jpg

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Thanks Greg,
Sharp Eye, it's amazing what you can see on the computer that i can't see with my eyes, i guess old age is creeping up on me <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif
I'll save your photo in my files.

[Nova Research Project]

You are most welcome, I have a bit of experience with the these things. I did notice that you do not have the typical washer behind the like the Novas (http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&amp;Number=372492&amp;page=all ) have.

Greg

[XXXGoldL34M20]

That is a great thread you have there Greg.
I see what you mean, the Nova always had the washer behind the rivets and on my chevelle there is no washer behind the rivets.
Maybe other guys here can check and see if there Atlanta built chevelle is done in the same fashion as mine. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

I have a tip for a sagging Wire Gutter unit, i used a heat gun to heat up the plastic and after it softened up a bit i put a weight (Like a heavy flat Book) to sit over the whole unit for awhile.
It is nice and tight again without the plastic sagging down with a large opening on the top keeping the wires in place a lot better.

[TDW]

I have one of those 3961573 parts that is still riveted to a gutter, but I can't tell if the gutter is the same as yours. If you can post a good shot, I will compare them.

[XXXGoldL34M20]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TDW</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have one of those 3961573 parts that is still riveted to a gutter, but I can't tell if the gutter is the same as yours. If you can post a good shot, I will compare them. </div></div>
Thanks Tony for the offer but i will just use mine as it will still operate with the other spade and the chances of finding one with the same date code as mine will be slim to none so i can live with what i have even though the proper spade is broken off.

[mockingbird812]

Greg Roberts (novaresearchgroup) has the correct rivets so that you can change out your broken relay and attach a good one. Tool comes with it and process can be seen here (http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&amp;Number=372492#Post3724 92) .

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Thanks Sam, Greg sent me that link last night.
More Details.
Clutch Z bar.
Manual Steering.
Pulleys.
Oil pan and Timing cover ready for paint.

[Postsedan]

What`s the date on your timing cover?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v677/Postsedan/Postsedan2011/Timingcoverpic-1.jpg

Dan

[XXXGoldL34M20]

8-70
8th week of 1970, or 8th day of 1970, or 8th month of 1970 <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/hmmm.gif
Tried a google search but could not come up with a clear awnser on how to date a timing cover. Maybe someone here knows the truth.
The Tab has &quot;A&quot; &quot;O&quot; &quot;R&quot; with lines

[69 Post Sedan]

8-70 is the 8th week of 1970. I learned this with the help of Joe Smith as he has never seen one stamped higher than 52.

Kurt

[SS427]

As far as the rivets go on 70 Chevelles, I have seen them with and without washers and riveted from both directions. There has not seemed to be any rhyme or reason to how they were done and in my findings it was not plant specific.

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Motor Rebuilder got sick before the holidays so still no progress on the motor till the new year.
I sand blasted the crossmember and re painted it myself.
The Drive shaft was restored by the last owner and it looks great.
Did Schmelzer make the oil pick up for Chevrolet or is this an aftermarket piece?

[Plowman]

Sorry to here that but keep up the good work. *Paul

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Its been awhile since i updated this thread but the motor is now moving along towards its completion.

I dicussed many things with my rebuilder and he did mention to me that the motor was once rebuilt in its history of being a race car so this is the second rebuild for my original LS6.
Motor was at .030 over so we decided to go .060 over to clean it up.
Motor was also decked,cleaned and neaded a cam thrust repair.

As far as the heads went we hardened the exhaust seats,did a valve job and resurfaced the base of the heads.

[XXXGoldL34M20]

The Crankshaft was balanced with the flywheel and damper.
Some mallory weights were added and one spot was drilled out for the balance.
Rods were press fit onto the pistons and weighed.
A new GM 10216339 Damper was installed to replace the old beat up original damper.

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Freeze plugs now installed and motor given its first coat of paint.
Re-assembly starts today.
Every part will be brand new,
Only the Crankshaft and Rods are original parts.

The Lunati 20202 Camshaft along with its matching 73124K1LUN springs will be used. I had this set up running on a previous 454 and really liked it.
Solid lifters will be the Howards 91118 with direct lube oiling hole.

[mockingbird812]

Was your deck stamping preserved?

[XXXGoldL34M20]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mockingbird812</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Was your deck stamping preserved? </div></div>

Yes it was but the machinist did come very close to the numbers and letters but they all show.
I was not very pleased with how close he came but he said it was the best he can do.

[mockingbird812]

Whew! That was close!!! Looking good!!!

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Pistons,Cam,Timing chain and Damper installed.
Head assembly is next.

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Yesterday i finally got the motor in the engine bay.
Should fire it up on Monday <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

[XXXGoldL34M20]

and a few hours later <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/naughty.gif
Spark plug wires and start up tommorrow.
Fingers crossed.
Sure looks damn good the way it was set up factory original.

[mockingbird812]

<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-size: 20pt">'Swunderful!!!!!!!!</span></span> <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif

[SS427]

Looking great Danny!

[napa68]

Just a real nice job on a real nice car!

Tim

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Still waiting for my motor builder to come by and do a break in. Maybe Friday or Saturday <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/no.gif It sucks to wait.
In the meantime i hooked up the spark plug wires, filled the antifreeze, put in the oil and primed the oil pump shaft and hooked up the battery to see if everything was fine.
Car has been sitting for a few days and no leaks to be found underneath.
I hope all goes well when we turn that ignition on.
My patience is getting thin.
Here is a couple of photos with the motor ready to go and complete.
Not bad for a Canadian AY.
Next reply i will let everyone know how the break in went.

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Finally Broke the engine in today.
Here is a link to a Youtube Video.

http://youtu.be/CwF3X3y6qcs

The video shows the car at 2000 Rpm at the 15 minute mark of the 20 minute break in, all good + no leaks to be found. The valves were adjusted one more time,spark plugs were all checked and are all clean. Exhaust is next and a tune up will be done after the exhaust is completed. The guy that appears in the video is Gus who re-built the motor.

Only have one problem as the carb will not keep idle, what do you guys think it is?
Maybe the idle circuit needs to be looked at or maybe a vacuum leak?
After i do the Exhaust i will check for vacuum leaks and if i can not find anything then i will take the carb off and have it checked.
The car is drivable but i have to keep the idle at about 1500 to 1800 Rpm so it does not shut off.

[VintageMusclecar]

Who did the carb?

How many turns out are the idle trim screws on the primary metering block?

[Plowman]

The thing sound's good. I would stop the playing around and send the carb to Eric of Vintage Musclecar Parts. He is the best.

[XXXGoldL34M20]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: VintageMusclecar</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Who did the carb?

How many turns out are the idle trim screws on the primary metering block? </div></div>

Carb was done by Jeff Dotterer.
The guy that owned the car before me had it rebuilt by Jeff.
If i were to do it i would of sent it to you Eric.
If i can not get things figured out i may send it out to you.
I will call you if and when the time comes.

The motor rebuilder tried adjusting the idle trim screws but it did not really make a difference

[MosportGreen66]

This is an Eric job...

He'll find a dozen things wrong with it. If I told you who the previous owner of my Z bought the carb from and how many issues Eric found with it, you'd be baffled in utter disbelief.

[XXXGoldL34M20]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MosportGreen66</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This is an Eric job...

He'll find a dozen things wrong with it. If I told you who the previous owner of my Z bought the carb from and how many issues Eric found with it, you'd be baffled in utter disbelief. </div></div>

Guys as soon as i get the exhaust all buttoned up the carb comes off and will be sent to Eric. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

[Xplantdad]

Eric is the best!


Your Chevelle looks and sounds great!

[mockingbird812]

Nice Danny, must be satisfying to hear her cime back to life again. You don't need no stinking exhaust on that car!!!!! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/no.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif

[XXXGoldL34M20]

The hood is back on and all lined up.
Triple checked everything and re-torqued some bolts.
Main gas line was Rubbing against the new Harmonic balancer Damper (this could of been a disaster while driving) <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/no.gif managed to bend the pipe with nice clearance wedging a thin piece of wood and using a long flat head screwdriver to give it the clearance.
It is so important to go over everything 2 to 3 times after a re-build as you may over look something.

Installed the rear Walker tail pipes/Inline Tube hangers and GM tips and the front has the down pipes from Pypes which are not a bad fit but i added Gasket donut flanges, hammered out a flat spot for a bit of clearance were it goes by the crossmember and cut the drivers side pipe to even out the length as that side comes about one foot to long. The mufflers will be the 1969 Chambered exhaust in the center. My brother in law is dropping off the car trailer and off to the muffler shop the car goes this week.
After the car returns from the muffler shop i will take off the Holley Carb and off to Eric it will go. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

Looking at the undercarriage keep in mind that this car has never had a frame off resto <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/naughty.gif

[Dicky]

I'm jealous <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/drool.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/drool.gif

Nice car Danny.

Dicky <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/flag.gif

[m22mike]

Nice.. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

[dl7265]

Nice, is the speedo cable clip that attaches to the bell housing original ?

DL

[XXXGoldL34M20]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dl7265</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Nice, is the speedo cable clip that attaches to the bell housing original ?

DL </div></div>

No,
It is actually an original 1970 Chevelle Hose Retainer that has been modified to fit the bolt on the bell housing to act as a clip.
I put it there for more support for the speedo cable.
Good eye DL (the part does look like it belongs there though)
The other support clip on the floor is the Original.

[SS427]

Here is what an original speedo clip would look like.

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Thanks for that photo Rick,
I need to get one of those,
For now i will modify that clip to look like that original one (no one will ever know) <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/naughty.gif

[dl7265]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SS427</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here is what an original speedo clip would look like. </div></div>
Thanks Rick, one of our Buick restorers had some made, but could not tell if they were different design then the Chevrolet design. Or if the Chevrolet ones were re poped ? I'll post a pic of one later off the car. The originals had a T on them.

DL

[COPO PETE]

That car is amazing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Sounds great.
We will need burn out photos for this car as well!!! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/naughty.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/Can-I-Have-It.gif
Peter

[dl7265]

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i5/dl7265/plating/consolette034.jpg


DL

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Does someone sell that Speedo Cable Clip or is there a company that reproduces them?
I have never seen one before.

[Bruce]

Here is a NOS clip I ordered 20 years ago,I got the last 2 left in the parts system at that time.
This part number was from the 69 chevelle assembly manual.

http://i478.photobucket.com/albums/rr145/bruwster55/IMG_3354.jpg
http://i478.photobucket.com/albums/rr145/bruwster55/IMG_3355.jpg
http://i478.photobucket.com/albums/rr145/bruwster55/IMG_3356.jpg

[mockingbird812]

Nice!

[XXXGoldL34M20]

That is a heavy duty part.
Would that 3763183 GM part be correct for a 1970 or 1969 as it is different than the clip DL shows from a previous post.
What does the AWT stamp mean?

This one kind of looks more like the custom one i ended up making myself that i show in a previous post.

[mockingbird812]

&quot;AWT&quot; is probably the manufactures intials/stamp.

[dl7265]

wow, that is solid. The Buick one is spring steel. And a little different. Prob could work in a pinch though.

DL

[XXXGoldL34M20]

After setting the timing right and re-tuning the carb, today i finally went for a ride with my car to a cruise and plan to put a lot of miles on the rebuilt motor.

Just wanted to say Thank You to many people here on this forum that really helped me along the build of my motor with opinions/phone calls/private emails and actually working on my parts.

Special thanks to Eric at (Vintagemusclecar)
Paul (Plowman)
Rick Nelson
Mr70
M22mike
Donnie
Origls6
And anyone else i may have missed here. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif
Time to shut up and put some miles on my car <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/3gears.gif

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Here are a couple of photos of the exhaust.
1969 Chevelle Chambered GM Mufflers were used.
A bit on the loud side,
i may change them or try adding the Resonators on the back but for now i will have to be a pain in the a@@ for the neighbourhood.
The company that did the Exhaust work &quot;Master Performance&quot; told me to use Flowmaster 50's to make it sound just right, they also said the Flowmaster 40's would be to loud for my LS6.
I think i will enjoy what i have on for now and decide next year if i should change the mufflers. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/rolleyes.gif

[XXXGoldL34M20]

One Last Look.
Car runs fantastic !!
Back on the road as it appeared in 1970.
Enjoy the photos.

[SuperNovaSS]

Looks awesome. Great job!


Jason

[mockingbird812]

Looks sharp Danny....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v697/mockingbird812/sYc%20site/tripblkls6bw-1.jpg

[XXXGoldL34M20]

Love that sepia tone.
Thanks Buddy

[XXXGoldL34M20]

A member here sent me photos of my car today at the very first Cruise-In right after we set the timing right off my driveway that night on June 14 2012 at 7:30 P.M. Car now has 400 miles since the re-build and all is going well.

My buddy Peter gave me a cigar to celebrate the occasion,(Photos courtesy of my friend Jim) Photos show crowd around the car and one of me proudly standing by the car with a mini cigar.

Thank you for the Photos Jim and Peter Thanks for the Mini Cigar <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gifhttp://www.yenko.net/attachments/usergals/2012/07/full-8682-396-bolton_show_june_14th_2012_046.jpg
http://www.yenko.net/attachments/usergals/2012/07/full-8682-397-bolton_show_june_14th_2012_048.jpg
http://www.yenko.net/attachments/usergals/2012/07/full-8682-398-bolton_show_june_14th_2012_043.jpg
http://www.yenko.net/attachments/usergals/2012/07/full-8682-399-bolton_show_june_14th_2012_039.jpg

[SS427]

Very nice maiden voyage. I can relate to the 'mini' cigars as well.....

[elonblock]

Congrats on the successful maiden voyage. The car looks great!

Elon