View Full Version : PAINT COLOR
ALLZS
08-21-2012, 02:35 AM
I AM GETTING READY TO PAINT MY SUB FRAME AND INNER FRONT FENDER WELLS AND MISC PARTS ON MY 69 CAMARO WHAT COLOR CODE IS A GOOD MATCH FOR THE LOW SHEEN BLACK PAINT IN A SINGLE STAGE I WOULD LIKE TO SPRAY THIS FROM A SPRAY GUN THANKS
YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY
08-21-2012, 12:40 PM
PPG Concept: DMC 902 is black single stage, add some flattener per the spec sheet and spray a test panel. Should come out looking factory!
Schonyenko2
08-22-2012, 02:40 AM
Sikens ralley black.
Born30YrsLate
08-22-2012, 02:51 AM
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Schonyenko2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Sikens ralley black. </div></div>
I guess I know what I'm getting... <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif
m22mike
08-22-2012, 12:09 PM
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Born30YrsLate</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Schonyenko2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Sikens ralley black. </div></div>
I guess I know what I'm getting... <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif </div></div>
Your gittin' the BILL... <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif
Xplantdad
08-22-2012, 09:02 PM
LOL <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/haha.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/haha.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/headbang.gif
Born30YrsLate
08-23-2012, 01:51 AM
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: m22mike</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Born30YrsLate</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Schonyenko2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Sikens ralley black. </div></div>
I guess I know what I'm getting... <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif </div></div>
Your gittin' the BILL... <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif </div></div>
Mikey you funny guy!...a greater truth has never been told...HA
Schonyenko2
08-23-2012, 03:36 AM
Hate to tell you this, but they're almost out of Red Dog. If they run out they quit working on the car.
Actually, we went for a lower cost alternative. We dp 90'd the car and clear coated it. (big smile)
m22mike
08-23-2012, 11:48 AM
For what DP 90 costs today, I don't think you saved to much Kenny... <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/hmmm.gif
kwhizz
08-23-2012, 12:22 PM
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a251/kwhizz/schoney.jpg
Schonyenko2
08-23-2012, 02:02 PM
That's true on the dp. Actually all paint related products.
YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY
08-23-2012, 02:20 PM
If you mix the DP90 as a sealer and let it set up slower you can avoid the clear coat - and save a few bucks! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/naughty.gif
Schonyenko2
08-23-2012, 04:11 PM
Problem with exposed dp is that over time uv rays kill it. I have a rat rod guy here in town now and that's what they do on occasion. I get people asking me why his stuff looks so bad, and I tell em, it's supposed to.
I think there is a Farmall M grille over there that could be made to fit this Camaro.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Schonyenko2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Problem with exposed dp is that over time uv rays kill it. </div></div>
Instant patina.
YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY
08-23-2012, 08:56 PM
Yes, you are correct - forgot about the sunlight issue, bummer! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif Back to the DMC902!
Born30YrsLate
08-23-2012, 09:10 PM
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Schonyenko2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hate to tell you this, but they're almost out of Red Dog. If they run out they quit working on the car.
Actually, we went for a lower cost alternative. We dp 90'd the car and clear coated it. (big smile) </div></div>
You guys sure know how to lay on that DP90...it looks nice. Oh could you maybe do a Farmall H grill instead of an M...my dad likes the H better.
http://www.yenko.net/attachments/usergals/2012/08/full-445-825-picture0818121317_2.jpg
m22mike
08-23-2012, 11:00 PM
Holy crap that looks good, if I only had a paint booth I wouldn't have to sand out all those damn bugs.. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/Can-I-Have-It.gif
Schonyenko2
08-23-2012, 11:12 PM
Hey Fred, can you post the pics of Schoenthaler Restorations South please. I think Mike might like that.
Justbad Joe
08-24-2012, 04:15 AM
[quote=Schonyenko2]Hate to tell you this, but they're almost out of Red Dog. If they run out they quit working on the car.
Just busted into the last Dog 30pk. If you think the picture Fred posted looks good off the gun.... wait for the polished version. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/drool.gif
Joe
Not to change the subject (OK, it actually IS to change the subject) ... have any of you shot lacquer over the newer DP90LF?
Also, I have read conflicting info on using it as a sealer. Some say to thin it beyond the normal recommendation and it works fine as a final sealer before topcoat either unsanded, or wait a week, wet sand and then shoot topcoat.
Don't know how you paint guys keep up with all this.
Thanks for any help.
Schonyenko2
08-25-2012, 01:48 AM
I don't know that I've ever shot laquer over dp90lf. I have over the old formula. While you can use it as a sealer, there are far better sealer systems than thinned dp90lf.
Thanks Ken. I figured. I already have some, so was hoping it would work well, and I wouldn't have to purchase something else. Am already investigating going another direction. Not always best to use something just because it is on hand.
m22mike
08-26-2012, 12:03 PM
Lynn
I have shot blackout lacquer on floor pans and firewalls over DP90 a bunch. I usually go right over it while it's still green, sometimes less that a day if it's real warm in my paint booth....err the garage.. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif.
I also use thinned down DP for the sealer coat and never had an issue, and Kenny correct about better sealers.
Mike
Well, I believe I am going with transtar 6244 (a 2k urethane which is same as 6221, 6224, 6231, 6234, 6241, just different sizes and colors) which will be going over some acrylic lacquer primer (transtar product) which is sanded so thin you can see through it in places. I am going to let the 6244 cure a week, then wet sand with 600, then 1200, then shoot another coat for one more round of wet sanding. Although I painted several cars back in the day, this is my first black repaint (full car any way, shot a couple of panels on an older black BMW about 10 years ago and they looked factory).
Black has to be perfect, so that is why so many steps. If I see a sanding mark in the finish, I will start having puppies. Cursed with the perfectionist gene. And I have the same brand "paint booth" as you Mike. So... I need to be able to sand out the tiny specs of dirt and bugs between steps.
Transtar Tech sheet says it "is compatible with most basecoat/clearcoat and single stage systems" for topcoat. Guess I should be ok with lacquer. I will test on a spare piece of metal before trying it out on my car. I submitted a question to transtar tech support, and will report back.
Sorry again for hijacking the thread. While there is a huge amount of information out there on painting, it really gets thin when you start looking for a very specific recommendation.
L30M20
08-27-2012, 12:47 AM
Lynn, Do Not shoot urethane base or urethane single stage over lacquer unless its sealed with a epoxy thinned as a sealer! You will have adhesion problems. Mix your epoxy normally, then add 10%-25% regular speed(normal) urethane reducer to that mix, let sit (induce) at least 30 minutes, and spray. I always shoot the base color after 30 -60 minutes, you can di-nib if needed with 800-1000 grit or white 3M SCUFF PAD after an hour or so. Epoxy is the best sealer, especially if you have a few cut thrus to metal on edges etc. Basic rule: Epoxy under anything/Epoxy over anything. Next paintjob switch to Southern Polyurethanes (SPI) especially for your primers and clears. C
The transtar 6244 isnt't a base or a single stage. It is a 2k urethane primer/sealer.
Still the same advice?
I still plan to go lacquer on top.
L30M20
08-27-2012, 02:01 AM
Lynn, yes seal w/epoxy over any lacquer product, then spray your urethane primer(s), finish block with 600 or 800, re-seal with epoxy thinned as a sealer, wait 30-60 minutes, spray your lacquer top coat. If your using solid black as your finish color, did you ever consider black single stage urethane? Shows better outside, more depth, and easy to sand out any trash that falls into it. C
Born30YrsLate
08-29-2012, 11:51 PM
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Schonyenko2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hey Fred, can you post the pics of Schoenthaler Restorations South please. I think Mike might like that. </div></div>
I'm assuming your mean these ones?...I don't think my car got any further South than that for while now... <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif
http://www.yenko.net/attachments/usergals/2012/08/full-445-860-100_4448.jpg
http://www.yenko.net/attachments/usergals/2012/08/full-445-861-100_4447.jpg
m22mike
08-30-2012, 02:25 AM
Ahh...are those operating rooms... <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/hmmm.gif
Mike <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif
Schonyenko2
08-30-2012, 03:41 AM
Yep. That's them. Figure by the time I'm 120 I'll have the place paid for. (big smile)
vBulletin® v3.8.11, Copyright ©2000-2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.