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View Full Version : 70-73 RS Endura Noses


firstgenaddict
09-30-2012, 02:12 PM
I am so removed from 2nd generation parts... are there any good reproductions or are good originals/NOS the only way to go?

hubleyman
10-03-2012, 02:19 AM
I suggest sticking with OEM GM if at all possible. Unfortunately, good used RS noses are difficult to find. NOS noses are very nice, but you have to be diligent in your search and willing to pay a few bucks or you will miss them. I've been sniped a few times on Ebay for NOS noses. The last NOS nose I picked up cost me $1200, but it's worth it if the car warrants that type of quality.

The repro noses will work fine for driver quality cars, but they are different (brackets, edges, etc.) and will require some extra work to fit decent. They are slightly different in shape, but most people don't notice them once installed.

For one of my last restos, I spent a couple of years trying to get a NOS nose with no luck, so I purchased a repro out of frustration. Actually it took three repros before a decent one arrived. Still not happy with that one, I did a little experiment. Using the upper half of an RS nose from my 72 Z (which got bumped on the bottom) and the lower half of the RS nose from my 70 Z (which rusted out on the top for some reason), I created one good sort of OEM RS nose that is better than the repros. See my pics for some fun. Us car guys will try just about anything sometimes...... Charlie

http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k560/hubleyman/1973%20Z/P1010032.jpg

http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k560/hubleyman/1973%20Z/P1010036.jpg

http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k560/hubleyman/1973%20Z/P1010031.jpg

http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k560/hubleyman/1973%20Z/P1010002.jpg

http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k560/hubleyman/1973%20Z/P1010001.jpg

firstgenaddict
10-03-2012, 02:09 PM
I can see that the reproduction is, for lack of a better word, "pudgy". It looks like it would have to be seriously re contoured.
Actually my urethane is not bad it is the metal... it is terribly rusted. Must have sat full of water and pine needles. I may try something with the stripping the urethane off the bad frame, if at all possible.

I will post some pics here if I decide to work with the current one, or do a hybrid like you have, or if I decide to re-contour a reproduction I will show the process.


Thanks
JAG

CamarosRus
07-03-2020, 05:47 AM
I'm prepping a very good used 70-72 Camaro Urethane Nose. Sanding off old OE paint down to "Orange" base material using a DA sander and 100 grit paper.
On back side of nose there is some areas that have split open or apart from the steel
frame. I'm running a cut-off wheel down in the opening to try and clean out rust and dirt
Urethane still very soild, no delam, no bubbling.

1) Can I use a liquid paint stripper down in that recessed area where the grill surround sits
2) What urethane patch/filler material should I buy to fill the open crack
3) Does the bodyman/painter use epoxy as a base coating over the urethane
or something different??
4) What value might be put upon a NOS nose in 2020????

firstgenaddict
07-04-2020, 12:10 PM
I'm prepping a very good used 70-72 Camaro Urethane Nose. Sanding off old OE paint down to "Orange" base material using a DA sander and 100 grit paper.
On back side of nose there is some areas that have split open or apart from the steel
frame. I'm running a cut-off wheel down in the opening to try and clean out rust and dirt
Urethane still very soild, no delam, no bubbling.

1) Can I use a liquid paint stripper down in that recessed area where the grill surround sits
2) What urethane patch/filler material should I buy to fill the open crack
3) Does the bodyman/painter use epoxy as a base coating over the urethane
or something different??
4) What value might be put upon a NOS nose in 2020????

1) I wouldn't - I have lightly sandblasted Urethane with GREAT success! (70 Judge convertible painted for 20 years with zero issues.)

2) 3M or FUSOR auto mix flexible bumper repair.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bFJInGpOkBPXkjRA91eOU028i0f-rfxNUG4z3ZdcXWNpWpUirmsJRWSv5VuainmUdjw6wio7sUCWCp HDvcG3pcI52NghqNxf5VJnJJ9Htd9AcGeD1kMeItWA91mMyeU6 z7B-NtjcXFZbmF0MEAy_3GwQ5pVfqYrcSraw2CJxQXvOkINkxYdOpb 9FiguaZAqJ1W_C7_pHHmPuJkQUSlv1lJqDJTzBtedJM9uLHotX Zi30ZSz9cX9IIpEzsaUIbjn7Nu5VAODj5a4EGWu7lQlFUHFify ZESHeCL4kCsVqCZdNm0G79rHRSiWe_4czJnIGxXXnbDXjCkREl LlFLPN-WYH4bP0XJgDU6j9ECf8ldgyN9UK-N-6CH_qpRcRzKF4hl7sZG8wJLsJ817rvPCdD5SHhLw0_NYsjbVGZ 1u137ln2ilvZFXU4f-klLvRrkvACyoF6h6v4cjHJ7-AHkX5OhlD5NOJMZUsc6iYytjQAk64w_ICashRZ_xzzZSOCiVKq fjiwmqnwZxpZhpCaY3hNzL7KMMsuEcv6V-b7ZA18J0rBz5zsfMtDgz5z4dA0-Ix7EWmpQhPlDl-LYL02-H1-ISR6dI2xRyz1x3Eq1EgmG8fDAo6dcUqVfmRyb-bsocF0cGkIO3dRb-QDpPtg-a-CkXQsAL23wgfKRMrZ2GQC2yyPWWXS8IBiRzEnKhU6Ckw=w1179-h884-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/N_3FKa5jssDwgWgtl4e4QlBSJ8H6x1K4XdgssyAwDjUUCZWu_V YpUAbA8x8gFKIGh3Z2w392iGRYhpLCNShY4zIoS2i28K-A3RSgWxVnYdm0bdu9e9-ngJnmTfeAUBBqdvioCEUTue3wshAa85BQo2A_KSMBsEJGT64A3 8GbSn03so69aNc7LirXrvmtIYp7jRrmzLIXO6LZsB7PePpS1V4 yEA1EBKk-tfwF5kh_nPqq2qeGNS62W00aXylrdO89nac9IdNCi6bB1TDgR0 hN73LhyrUE9dfJ_LgI5cz--q7KBYxroSYyCZJyH_p_zhvfLz5pPMXpvdmhkr5whg0OsG-A_zT1KUyDvQC2yJMZzFIGeRz_HMzcMx80dS-mR4uJqP5XUNwDQNhF0cquMO4PVpEnMGlG-eKnHD7OwfnEz1f_OzSZhjxb9FoD4vvhGJYRYyaGxu_JRWHInz2 wurWNXyFU6xG1l_M3Cy_cVweqUAs-ckpyhhrx8qJlZO1tCChAMY0oSnX9hU2hIKka28u4x3LwWlANTs JTBX7LhYzPrlRHmsbbokUZogmE2dR66YaNYY5ATLbuCt5gLoEq sLszCoTaXr4tyxdmHpeuJfvb0c2bbbAlorg_v_i99rhVlzSjDS vsWPJqeWnbeiQ7BXVJmoO7gTCnYbdFSNeHYwTZsNpFTqfS20PE D5x6k0b_MQ=w1179-h884-no?authuser=0

You can see the amount added, I used a wood rasp to rough the area up then after cured and filed I bent/deformed the added material by more than an inch to test it's adhesion

3) Spies Hecker - Flexible Parts primer. (expensive $150 for a liter BUT WELL WORTH IT) (they primed an inflated beach ball... deflated after the paint dried and you couldn't get it to flake off) I also use flex agent in the clear.

4) I have one I could be talked out of, however I have been offered $3500 so it would take more than that.

CamarosRus
07-10-2020, 12:32 AM
I'm trying to find a SODA BLASTER in Seattle/Tacoma who can remove Urethane Nose paint........

And still want/need to order a 2k product for filling the split/void/crack between
Urethane and steel frame on back side............

Also someone bent the mounting tabs....maybe for alignment or fit......Do I heat with a
torch and bend back straight or ???

TimG
07-10-2020, 02:02 AM
Fortunately, I found a used RS front end when my 1970 RS Z28 got smashed about eight years ago (young lady turned in front of my son). The fenders are different with the RS emblems vs the Camaro emblem. We made it work, it was a good car and worth the search.

CamarosRus
07-20-2020, 07:42 PM
Where can I ask questions of an experienced expert on media blasting , cleaning patching the above urethane nose.

iluv69s
07-24-2020, 12:28 PM
Cars here are probably too nice, but A cheap way is to buy a fiberglass repo for a driver car. They need as much work as a repo, just a lot cheaper. I’ve made them look where no one noticed.

firstgenaddict
07-29-2020, 02:12 AM
Chuck,
The reason I used sand vs soda is that it gives a little "etch" to the urethane, which allows the primer to bite better.

The only way I have been able to straighten the bumpers is hand built fixtures and a press.