1969 black on black ss 396

[chevyman0429]

Figured id share one of my chevelles with u guys. The cars a 69 ss that the lions club raffled off at a show here in michigan then was involved in an accident. I bought the car as a complete car. Originally black car with black interior.Last owner said he was told it was a original 375 horse car. But when i got car apart for restore it has a 1969 427 512 4 bolt block with 840 casting heads. The car does have a 6000 rpm in dash tach had a single 3/8 fuel line when body was removed from bent frame.




[img]http://www.yenko.net/attachments/usergal...08_340557_n.jpg (http://www.yenko.net/attachments/usergals/2013/01/full-5586-2148-208001_1810914790467_1167907460_31862208_340557_n. jpg)[/img

[Charley Lillard]

That should buff right out.

[chevyman0429]

With a little elbow grease and alot of cold bud lights its well on its way!


http://www.yenko.net/attachments/usergals/2013/01/full-5586-2151-img347.jpg
http://www.yenko.net/attachments/usergals/2013/01/full-5586-2150-img349.jpg

[Postsedan]

Glad your saving her <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

Dan

[firstgenaddict]

Whats the rear end code?

[chevyman0429]

The rearend code CF 0115B Turns out to be 3:31 posie

[markinnaples]

Yes, glad you're saving that beauty.

[CC Rider]

another &quot;glad you are saving it&quot; reply. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

[XXXGoldL34M20]

I'd like to see a photo of the other car on the other end.
If it was a modern car it must have been unreconizable <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/naughty.gif

[chevyman0429]

From what I was told by the last owner that was in the car at time of accident it was a 2010 women driven mustang. She ran a red light hit him while he was at a dead stop. According to him she drove her car away.

[chevyman0429]

Was wondering is there any way to make the numbers on the block stand out any better other then a magnifying glass. The motor in this car has the numbers stamped down by the oil filter and there next to impossible to read.

[chevyman0429]

Finally got the nerve up to repair one of the fenders cant afford NOS fenders so I found a set the needed work and used the patches from my wrecked fenders. Turned out decent for my first time doing something like this!

http://www.yenko.net/attachments/usergals/2013/02/full-5586-2486-fender11.png
http://www.yenko.net/attachments/usergals/2013/02/full-5586-2487-fender22.png

[Postsedan]

Mike,

Well done <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

Dan

[chevyman0429]

Well I was told from the gentlemen I got this car from that it was an original L78 car. But he had no documentation. Went out this morning and the front pulleys on the motor have these part numbers stamped in them. According to a document I found on the net these part numbers where used on the l78/l89 big blocks. I took some pics but with my phone and u cant make out the numbers, so im gonna dig out my camera and get some better ones. I know it doesnt mean much there just pulleys but still got me pumped up. Im gonna pull the(6000)tach out of the dash to see if its original or reproduction. The cars been restored once by the lions club but im gonna pull the seats out just to check for buildsheet. Any specifics on fremont cars about where they put the build sheets?
Crank pulley number 3955291
Water pump pulley 3947824
Power steering pulley 3941105 (damaged)

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

http://chevellestuff.net/1969/bs.htm

According to this write up you will find the build sheet in the trash can on the assembly line.

I have looked casually through my 1969 Fremont Chevelle but haven't found one. I do remember a write up explaining Fremont build sheets to be very rarely found. (that was by memory, probably should stick with facts) I had a quick look on TeamChevelle but didn't find the article.....

Ryan

[Postsedan]

Mike,

I would pull out that complete interior and look for it. If you do find the Build Sheet, email me a good picture of it....I`m very familiar with Fremont Built L78`s.

Best of Luck!

Dan

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

Hi Dan,

Where have you found build sheets other than inside the lower half of the back seat?

I might go snooping in my car as well.

Ryan

Best of luck Mike, thanks for saving that 69.

I think yours is sitting a little low..........

http://www.yenko.net/attachments/usergals/2013/02/full-13277-2505-kgrhqzlie3n5sksibobsgcrcq_3.jpg

[Postsedan]

Ha, the days before air bags and hydraulics <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/haha.gif

Dan

[Postsedan]

Ryan,

Your watching your kids today, no time for Build Sheet finder.

I sent you a pm.

Dan

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

Got it, the PM not the build sheet.

Ryan

[chevyman0429]

Well dont hate on me to bad, I know its a ford and not a muscle car but this dam thing keeps popping up im my area for sale. Everytime it does it gets cheaper and cheaper. Spoke to the gentlemen yesterday says its got to go he is moving and its not going with him. He said its complete except the glass. Flathead v8 body and fenders great he says. Needs floor work $1200 or best must go. I do have a rebuilt 400 sbc with 6 one barrel carbs and a rebuilt 700r4 trans just sitting in the corner waiting for something like this. I need another one like I need a hole in the head but dam $1200 is like givin it away.
http://www.yenko.net/attachments/usergals/2013/02/full-5586-2572-3e43ma3h55l45f85mdd22c0a3d3790ca91faa.jpg

[Postsedan]

Mike,

You`ll love this thread......

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/423126/1

Dan

[chevyman0429]

Well tore the seat outs today and I didnt find a buildsheet. Im not gonna take it any further with the snow being the car has to be out of the garage to get the doors open. Heres a couple pics of the in dash tach. does the little red button type thing belong in the center of the rpm needle. It doesnt look right to me.
http://www.yenko.net/attachments/usergals/2013/02/full-5586-2604-tach1.png
http://www.yenko.net/attachments/usergals/2013/02/full-5586-2605-tach2.png

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

I haven't gone out in the cold build sheet hunting yet...

I attached several L78 tach pictures, they are very well restored cars and all look to have the same center as yours.

Ryan


http://www.yenko.net/attachments/usergals/2013/02/full-13277-2606-69vell14.jpg
http://www.yenko.net/attachments/usergals/2013/02/full-13277-2607-kgrhqeokowe35vw09pbogezr5hg_3.jpg
http://www.yenko.net/attachments/usergals/2013/02/full-13277-2608-5ade_4.jpg
http://www.yenko.net/attachments/usergals/2013/02/full-13277-2611-8238adb0.jpg

[Postsedan]

I`m diggin the toggle switch <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

Dan

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

You miss absolutely no detail.

Here is the rocket launcher buttons......

http://www.yenko.net/attachments/usergals/2013/02/full-13277-2619-69vell16.jpg

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

Dan.

On Team Chevelle there is a post about 6500rpm red line tachs in 69 Chevelles, is that an urban legend?

Ryan

[Postsedan]

Ha, this must be a Canadian Ash tray, Eh! RPO - TRAYEH

Dan

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

Good one,

Mine has the RPO sirop d’érable (maple syrup dispenser)

Ryan

[Postsedan]

Nice.

Dan

[chevyman0429]

Well I got off my rear last night got the car wired tonight gonna set the timing and bleed the brakes. I need to look into a radiator prolly gonna go with a direct fit becool alumuinum radiator.Fenders are also almost done. Just want to hear it run again.Car has a big solid cam rectangler port heads and 3 inch exhaust, O does it sound incredible. Its almost go time

[Rixls6]

Make a video with sound, of it running, so we can hear it too!

[chevyman0429]

Rick I most definitely plan on sharing it for sure.

[chevyman0429]

Dam I caught hell trying to get the distributor set in right. I had to walk away and Ill give it another shot tomorrow. Correct me if Im wrong, I was always taught to bring number 1 piston to TDC on compression stroke and drop the distributor in with the rotor pointing towards Number 1 cylinder.

I also had an issue with the oil filter hitting the headers (fram)so I went and got a stp filter which is close to an inch shorter and it went right in. Still dam near touching the header. I guess the odds were against me tonight.

Mike

[Rixls6]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: chevyman0429</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Dam I caught hell trying to get the distributor set in right. I had to walk away and Ill give it another shot tomorrow. Correct me if Im wrong, I was always taught to bring number 1 piston to TDC on compression stroke and drop the distributor in with the rotor pointing towards Number 1 cylinder.

Mike </div></div>

That's right, but do one more thing. Hook up a timing light, with the key on hold the trigger of the light and slowly rotate the distributor until the light flashes, lock the distributor right there. Ususally will fire right up after that provided you have not flooded it or anyhing else.

[njsteve]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rixls6Mike [/quote</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Usually will fire right up after that, provided you have not flooded it or anything else... </div></div>

Like installing the crank sprocket 90 degrees off lke I did. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/rolleyes.gif

Keep at it, you'll get it running. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif

[chevyman0429]

Timing done except the final tune once the car is started which will be this week. I dont really care for the bright yellow plug wires but thats what I had in my stash of parts. Gonna have to find something else but for now they will have to work.
http://www.yenko.net/attachments/usergals/2013/02/full-5586-3044-66.png

[chevyman0429]

Well I finally found a collision shop that would pull the front cowl on this car. Every one wanted to do the whole job, which wasnt in the budget. A friend refered me to alittle collision shop around the corner from my house. Anyhow, I dropped the car off on thursday morning and picked it up friday afternoon. The car turned out 10 times better then I could have expected. The driverside door gap is perfect the door shuts excellent and the upper cowl which took the hardest hit, U cant even tell it was hit.I know im goin on and on. Im just pumped it came out so good. Now I can put the front clip on. Somehow there r a nice set of 40 foot tire marks going down the driveway. Its sounds great. The 3 inch exhaust and the solid lifters sound awesome.

[scuncio]

Congrats! Good feeling to see the project moving along.

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

Great progress, we love to hear and see projects moving froward. (your not &quot;going on and on&quot;)

Ryan

[Rixls6]

Maybe you'll be ready to do some spring cruising soon.

[earntaz]

Hurry up and get-er-done!

[chevyman0429]

Well the car was suppose to be finished by now, but I bought a new home with a massive garage and enouph land for a second garage. Moving and life the cars been at a stand still, however I ran into a gentlemen with a small stash of N.O.S 69 parts so I ended up with the last 2 pieces of the build. Picked up a mint ss black steering wheel and a very nice ss hood to finish this car. I ended up also buying a set of N.O.S 69 quarters and a set of N.O.S fenders for my other 69. Made for a good day for sure.

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

Great stuff, she will be looking like this gem shortly.

Ryan

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2013/07/full-13277-5503-69cvchevss13.jpg

[Postsedan]

Well done Mike <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

Dan

[chevyman0429]

Well I need some help. Trying to get the cooling system wrapped up and the fan doesn't fit the shroud. I bought a factory 69 bb shroud a Hayden clutch with a hayden aftermarket fan blade. The fan blade is 19 inches across from one blade straight across to the other. Whats the span of the 772 factory fan blade. The motor has a long water pump on it is this correct. The fan blade fits the shroud great outside the car. Im frustrated with it. Any help would be great.

Thanks Mike

[Mr70]

18&quot; is the span of the #772 fan,with very little room left inside the #914 shroud.

[chevyman0429]

Well I bought a original 69 772 fan blade and it rubs the bottom of the shroud. I just have the core support bolted down and the fenders hanging there. Any advice would be great. This is really getting under my skin.

[Postsedan]

Mike,

My guess is you have incorrect repop front core support bushings <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/thumbsdown.gif Or your radiator support bushings are also incorrect? Where did you purchase either of them?

Dan

[chevyman0429]

The core support bushing were bought in a complete body bushing kit from NPD. The radiator is not in the car yet. Just trying to fit everything before i put in the radiator so it doesn't end up damaged.

[Postsedan]

That bushing kit is the typical repop from China.....they are not correct.

Dan

[chevyman0429]

Where can I get the correct set Dan

[Postsedan]

NOS is what I prefer....you can still find them....but you will need to be a night owl on ebay.

Call Ground Up and see who their manufacture is? If not, check and see how tight you have the core support bushings....perhaps you need to torque them more, but without collapsing them.

Dan

[Alss]

I fixed one with some shims under trhe bushing..not quite right but gets the job done..I too preferr NOS!
Loosen the core mount bolts and see if lifting the entire core up clears the shroud/fan interference...doesnt take much.

[69gmmuscleluver]

Hopefully your bushings are the problem and all will line up correctly with NOS. If the bushings don't fix the problem it's possible the frame rails are up and throwing everything else out of tolerance.

[chevyman0429]

Well after almost two weeks of messing with my fan and shroud I figured out my problem today. I did replace the core support bushing with NOS bushing but it didn't help. The brace that's spot welded to the front lower part of the core support has 3-4 broken spot welds allowing the bottom of the core support to push towards the motor around 3/8''- 1/2'' which in turn raises the radiator and fan shroud. So I have to weld it back up. Here's a few pics.
http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2014/04/full-5586-10567-image.jpg
http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2014/04/full-5586-10568-image.jpg
http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2014/04/full-5586-10569-image.jpg

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

Now I get it.

Tough one to figure out I am sure.

Ryan

[chevyman0429]

I guess on a positive note I wasn't happy with the paint on the core support anyhow. So after I reweld it, it will be reblasted and painted the right way.

[chevyman0429]

Gonna try and post a video of this car it's not done but up and running finally.
http://s1326.photobucket.com/user/chevym...vzdtsn.mp4.html (http://s1326.photobucket.com/user/chevyman0429/media/Mobile%20Uploads/trim.B0DF8B0A-DF43-4F45-9FC9-D2F9422F52F4_zpsyivzdtsn.mp4.html)

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

The one second video sounds good !

Ryan

[chevyman0429]

It's a little longer than that. We'll it is on my end anyway. Wasn't for sure I had the short video posted right or not.

[Postsedan]

Well done - Mike.

I will keep trying to post the entire length of the video for you <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

Dan

[chevyman0429]

Just picked up a Mr Gasket tach for this car and was wondering after I bought it of course does this tach require the transmitter.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2014/12/full-5586-19142-image.jpg

[Day2_69Z]

Probably not, that looks like either a Sun or RAC. transistor Tach from around 71-72 remarketed by Mr Gasket......how many wires ?
It may be 1 screw on the back of the cup to take a peek inside.

[chevyman0429]

There's three wires coming out of the cup. Red, blue and brown

[chevyman0429]

Let's try this again

http://s1326.photobucket.com/user/chevym...vzdtsn.mp4.html (http://s1326.photobucket.com/user/chevyman0429/media/Mobile%20Uploads/trim.B0DF8B0A-DF43-4F45-9FC9-D2F9422F52F4_zpsyivzdtsn.mp4.html)

[chevyman0429]

Well had the day off so I dug the old girl out today to get back at it. However it won’t get finished overnight like some of you guys do.

[chevyman0429]

The brake booster on this car is dated 249 and on the back I believe it’s says 9354 is this correct for a 01D build?

[Postsedan]

Text sent

Dan

[chevyman0429]

I’m always looking hoping that the original block would show up for sale. Yesterday I got an email from a gentleman in Oregon that says he has a block dated A-10-69 and this car has a build date of 01d and came out of The Fremont plant. His blocks vin almost matches this cars vin the last number on his block is a 1 and the last number of this cars vin is 7
My question is could this be my original block do the vin numbers run that close maybe they didn’t punch right and the top portion of the seven did not get stamped right or maybe they used a 1 instead of the 7?

[cheveslakr]

It's accepted by some as just a human error but some will disagree. I've got an engine here with the same anomaly but it has a 9 vs a 0. To me, that's easier to buy because it's just one roll of the digitizer and that can happen by accident imo. Since it would happen so seldom, I don't think you're going to hear a lot of personal testimonies, just opinions on either side.

[Rainer]

I’m always looking hoping that the original block would show up for sale. Yesterday I got an email from a gentleman in Oregon that says he has a block dated A-10-69 and this car has a build date of 01d and came out of The Fremont plant. His blocks vin almost matches this cars vin the last number on his block is a 1 and the last number of this cars vin is 7
My question is could this be my original block do the vin numbers run that close maybe they didn’t punch right and the top portion of the seven did not get stamped right or maybe they used a 1 instead of the 7?

Replied to your question with my opinion in your other post.

[chevyman0429]

Well after a move total house renovations having cancer twice and cutting off one of my fingers with a circular saw Im finally getting back after this car. The plans is try and match the paint on the front clip and doors and drive the snot out of it! I have a 69 ss396 post car i want to dig into but can’t do it until this one is wrapped up.

I got the front clip and drivers door on and for the most part adjusted where gaps are nice! The hood is a different story it almost touches fender on drivers side but passenger side has 3/4” gap. I think I can push drivers door in about 1/8 which would allow me to move drivers fender in about the same but I don’t believe that will be enough to close up gap on passenger side! Assembly manual says between the fender opening in back by windshield should be 56 5/8 my opening is 57”. Anyone have any advice on this ?

This car has January build date with GM factory 6,000 rpm redline tachometer cloth bench seat (originally) and column shift . I pulled dash cluster out this week to find a late 68 date code on it. The dash cluster is also from a column shift car. Which leads me to believe its original to the car but it had been restored By the Lions Club here in Michigan before the wreck!

[chevyman0429]

Hood gap Iv tried twice to turn these photos to the correct position and they still end up side ways !
Could one of the administrators move this thread to the Chevrolet section ? Thanks

[chevyman0429]

Some side views with the cragars on it.

[Mr70]

..

[Crush]

Sharp car! I sure hope the coming months/years, things settle down with health and personal stuff ! Sounds like it has been a challenging stretch.

[chevyman0429]

Yea Crush health is great and house is done for a few years its my time lol. I have 3 69 ss chevelles and three old square body shortbeds that will be consuming up my time if in not fishing !

[chevyman0429]

Another interesting thing about this car is it has all deep groove pulleys. The car was restored by the Lions Club here in Michigan as earlier stated however not sure they would add deep groove pulleys. Cloth bench seat (755) column shift, column shift gauge cluster, with factory 6,000 redline Tachometer, single 3/8 fuel line, GM deep groove pulleys, front disk brakes with 636 and 637 front brake calipers, 512 casting 4 bolt block, with late 68 dated 840 heads and factory 3:31 posi! Someone also installed both NOS quarters and both NOS front fenders before accident.

[scuncio]

Cool car. There is one virtually identical to yours rotting away in a yard (my former neighbor) on MacKeachie Rd in White Lake.

Did you get the NCRS paperwork to find the original selling dealer?

[chevyman0429]

Cool car. There is one virtually identical to yours rotting away in a yard (my former neighbor) on MacKeachie Rd in White Lake.

Did you get the NCRS paperwork to find the original selling dealer?

Tony that one you speak of in White lake has it been listed for sale before ?

This car was sold new from a dealership in California! I own 2 Fremont built 69 ss chevelles and both were sold new out of Californa dealerships but ended up here in Michigan!