Master Cylinder Paint

[earntaz]

Beside powder-coating -- has anyone had any success painting a master cylinder that is not affected by DOT-3/4 fluid? I do not want to use DOT-5 for various reasons. Has anyone tried the Eastwood product?

Thanks -- The TAZ

[69VN]

I've never had a problem with any paints I've bought from Eastwood. If you're going to paint your master cylinder the part number for that product is #11756Z Brake Gray. Make sure you follow the directions. Any questions you can contact them at 1-800-345-1178...Good luck on your project.

SAL

[Charley Lillard]

TAZ what kind of car ?

[njsteve]

I use Rustoleum Flat Black. It very nicely reproduce the factory grey/black coating that were on some of the original master cylinders.

[earntaz]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Charley Lillard</div><div class="ubbcode-body">TAZ what kind of car ? </div></div>

71 Nova, L72 427, 400TH ... just a toy ... The TAZ

[DW31S]

Why don't you want to use DOT 5?

[earntaz]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DW31S</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Why don't you want to use DOT 5? </div></div>

Too many &quot;rumored&quot; issues w/DOT 5 -- Google &quot;DOT-5 problems&quot; for example. For what I will be using the car for, DOT 4 will work just fine.

Noticed your &quot;poster&quot; 442. I ordered a 69' W-30 442 w/3.91 posi in Nam' -- my wife and brother picked it up at an Olds dealership in Green Bay. When I got home in early 69' I think they had raced ever hot car in the area ... LOL. The 442 was Black w/gold stripes and a white interior. What a wild sounding &quot;stock&quot; engine -- bolted on a set of Hooker headers, tweaked the QJ and commenced to having fun with my Dr Olds Machine ...

[Salvatore]

Rattle can the Rustoleum like Steve said.

[earntaz]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: [email protected]</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Rattle can the Rustoleum like Steve said. </div></div>

Sam -- sounds like a plan to me ... Thanks

[DW31S]

Hey Taz, actually, my car is a small block W-31, 4-speed, 4:33s and was an F/stocker. Sounds like that W-30 was a good looking car. The reason I ask about the dot 5, is I'm closing in on finishing a frame-off on another Olds (small block, 4-speed, 3:91s) and put dot 5 in it. So far (knock on wood), no problems. A racer on one of the Olds sites recommended dot 5 and this car is the first I have tried it in. Thanks for the response and comments.

[njsteve]

I've never had a problem with the silicone brake fluid in my collector cars. The only reaon I use it is to save my paint if there is ever a leak in the system.

[Verne_Frantz]

This issue has been debated to infinite lengths on the net, but I can only offer my experiences. I have DOT-5 in 3 of my cars and have never had an issue. The main problem encountered is air bubbles that get trapped in the fluid. Once they're there, it's practically impossible to remove them, so it is all in the technique of application. Don't shake the bottle. Pour gently and bleed gently.
I have it in my '62 with metallic brakes and if I stand on the pedal hard, you'll feel a nose bleed coming on while you hear the body mounts creaking to leave the chassis.!
For a collector car that sits a lot, it is a necessity because it will not absorb water and rot out your master cylinder, slave cylinders or lines. It's a once and done application.
Don't be afraid of it, but treat it as nitro-glycerin when you handle it.

Verne <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/flag.gif

[SS427]

Up until recently, I have used Dot 5 in EVERY restoration I have done since I started at Corvette Specialties in 1981. In reality, the only issues I have ever had were a slightly spongy peddle (likely due to the air bubbles) and Dot 5 is MUCH more prone to seep fluid than the Dot 3 due to it's viscosity. I have had some that flat refused to stop seeping no matter how tight I got the fitting. It will also bleed past the wheel cylinder rubbers in some cases. The only reason I recently went back to Dot 3 is because none of the resleeving companies will warrant their rebuilds if you use Dot 5 and virtually every car I do today has one or more sleeves between the master cylinders and/or wheel cylinders. If not for that I would continue to use Dot 5 as it is SOOOOOOOO much safer on the painted surfaces.

[Nova Jed]

I've used the Eastwood Brake Gray on my 55 Chevy with Dot 3. Yes the whole system was cleaned out prior. I had to put all new brakes on it ofcourse. But anyway, the master cylinder was painted with Brake Gray and it seems to be holding up well. Just make sure you allow it to dry for a day or so. If you don't, any fluid on it will wipe the paint right off. I didn't wait too long and spilled some and where it spilled rusted, but everywhere else is like the day I painted it. The car isn't in a garage either.

Another great tip is to heat the part with a small propane torch. Most people forget that there is a ton of moisture in the air, no matter what temp. Lightly heat a bare steel part and watch it get sweaty. Once it stops, paint the part. It also helps draw the paint into the pores of the part. If you've every been in a spray booth, that's why the heat the booth up with your car/part in it. Gets the moisture out. If not, the moisture is locked in.

[Salvatore]

Jed-I you are a Master Blaster with that paint gun. Good info!

[earntaz]

BLUF -- keep DOT3/4 off the finish and/or make sure no air in DOT 5 system ... debate continues...

Thanks all -- The TAZ

[Schonyenko2]

2 cents: My observation is that on Novas, they were dusted with what I believe was black laquer. More of a quick spray, rather than a dedicated spray. I've found that if you dust on POR chassis black so it goes on a little dry, and barely covers the master, it looks close to original, and has good staying power with either fluid if you wipe off spills right away. JMHO

[Nova Jed]

Awsome info Ken! I had seen bbbenny's master cylinder weeks ago and wondered how it still looked good.