No start condition on 1969 L46 Corvette

[Dave Rifkin]

This afternoon I decide to take my 1969 L46 Corvette out for a little spin. I disconnect the C-Tek battery charger from the battery, turn the key and the car barely turns over. I try again with the same results. Just for the heck of it I reconnect the charger and, from the looks of the indicator lights, the battery is fully charged. I try to start the car again; nothing except this time the car seems to show signs of added juice when I back off the key. For instance, when I turn the key all the way to start the car I get the sluggish to nearly dead battery condition. As I back the key off as if I was going to return to the off position, the ignition kind of jumps to life for a split second.

The car is equipped with the factory TI system if that makes a difference; anyone have any suggestions what might be causing this to happen.
I don't drive the car all that often; the last time was a few weeks ago and I thought it was starting kind of funny at that time; almost as if the timing was off.

[VintageMusclecar]

Check connections at the battery & ground(s) and check the voltage on the battery with a voltmeter.

[Hemicolt]

Also check voltage at the purple wire going to the starter solenoid. It only sees voltage while cranking the engine.
If you have proper voltage at that terminal and the battery terminal at the starter, it could be the starter itself.
If there is low voltage at the purple wire, but battery voltage is correct, start tracing back from the purple wire.

[firstgenaddict]

Sounds like a dragging starter, I just had a VERY similar situation, the bearing was bad and the brushes were into the armature.

[Dave Rifkin]

Is it worth it to have the starter rebuilt or should I just replace it with a new one?

[Hemicolt]

If it's the original starter, I would have it rebuilt.

[firstgenaddict]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hemicolt</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If it's the original starter, I would have it rebuilt. </div></div>
X2

BTW I love 69 L46's had a Daytona Yellow one back in the late 80's... probably one car I should have kept.

[PeteLeathersac]

It probably is the starter and replace/rebuild as req'd but don't forget rule #1 - always confirm problems <span style="text-decoration: underline">before</span> replacing any parts.
Failing batteries/alternators and other problems can create similar symptoms also a good battery reading means little being an internal failure may not show up until under load.
- Check oil level and if necessary that engine rotates Ok.
- Loosen alternator/fan belt to confirm alt spins freely also same w/ other belts/acccessories if present.
- Knock starter w/ a blunt hammer just in case it's stuck engaged.
- Visually inspect all system components/clean all connections and load test system to check starter, alt and battery.
- If no tester available, boost vehicle with <span style="text-decoration: underline">and without</span> the existing battery in the circuit - without necessary as a failed battery can drag the power down boosting through it.
- Still no-go, pull starter for visual and bench testing - replace/rebuild as req'd.
- Not necessarily in this case but it's best always check and confirm distributor advance and weights are free/not seized also check ignition base timing isn't too advanced.- Lastly is concern for a #'s starter and how it may disappear regardless of what the guy you send it to says, may be best buy a whole non #'s unit and shelf the original?

Best o' luck!
<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif
~ Pete

[earntaz]

- Knock starter w/ a blunt hammer just in case it's stuck engaged -- YES ... do this while someone holds the key to the start position ... if it cranks, the brushes probably need replacing. The TAZ

[Dave Rifkin]

All great advice; I will try some of them this weekend when I can enlist the help of my neighbor.

Thanks for the suggestions.

[Chevyfever]

I would try jumper cables first, if battery connections are good.
<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/smile.gif