Derusting a flywheel.

[GaryC]

What's up fellas? I need to do something with the original flywheel for my Z. It is completely rust covered, back, front, around the teeth, I think you all know this look but not pitted or flaking rust off or anything like that. I don't even think it has ever been resurfaced. If I take it in to have it resurfaced will the shop take car of that removal in the process or will it just be resurfaced and the rest is up to me?

[Salvatore]

Nope, the shop will make it look new if you ask them.

[GaryC]

I was hoping someone would say that...now I just have to find a shop that does this locally...I can't believe that all the shops are pretty much gone in my area that use do the little things like rebuilding starters. Not much happening in Dover Delaware.

[Charley Lillard]

http://safestrustremover.com/

[marxjunk]

c l r

overnight it will look nice

[Salvatore]

any machine shop will do it Gary. take it to NAPA. They will do it. Get in touch with Kerry Stanley a member here. He is close to you and can do all that stuff. Try this number: 1-302-250-8751. he can help you with many things Gary.

[rszmjt]

Evaporust, simply awesome stuff and enviromentaly friendly.
Bought 20 gallons of it to derust a 63 ZO6 block that looked like it had been used to anchor the Titanic, it was absolutely perfect after.

http://www.evapo-rust.com/

[GaryC]

I have met Kerry some time ago but only once. I think he's about 45 minutes or so from me. I should give him a call...he does live in an area that has more going for it then where I do.

[GaryC]

I thought about the evapo-rust but if It can be cleaned while it's getting a resurface I just may as well get the shop to take care of it.

Thanks guys...I really wasn't sure if it could be cleaned.

[Salvatore]

Gary, don't do or buy anything. Take it to a shop. Why buy stuff that you will only use once? call Kerry. he can help with your motor. he has a killer crossram 69 Z/28.

[Charley Lillard]

Why pay to have the flywheel resurfaced if he doesn't need to. Is it really worn or just surface rust ? If it only needs rust removal he can use it over and over for years.

[GaryC]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Charley Lillard</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Why pay to have the flywheel resurfaced if he doesn't need to. Is it really worn or just surface rust ? If it only needs rust removal he can use it over and over for years. </div></div>

Charley it needs to be surfaced anyway...it has a few raised spots from heat on it and a few small hair lines as well. I don't think it needs a lot removed but I have a new clutch to go with it so I may as well get it all done...I'm thinking balanced.

[njsteve]

I used that safestrustremover stuff on an NOS flywheel (let it soak in the liquid) and it was amazing - brought back the original machined surface. I think evaporust is the same buffered solution liquid. Don't use the phosphoric acid based liquids on something like this because they convert the rust to a hard material, versus the buffered solutions which actually wash away the rust and stop when they reach virgin metal.

[marxjunk]

evsporust is amazing on carbs...i know its not rust on carbs,,but it makes them look new..BUT removes all the plating...really kills all the carbon and varnish..i used it on my GTO tripower carb and was amazed (i tried it on a useless carb first)bases which are cast iron came out like NOS...in appearance

[GaryC]

Well let me ask you all something then. How bad does s flywheel have to be before it really needs to be resurfaced? I only just heard about Evap-o-rust this past summer, and at the very least I may just get some for other things that it can be used for. Maybe I'll just do the flywheel and then check it out then to see if it really needs resurfacing afterwards. Heck, it may not even need anything but cleaning, I have never had to get one done in my life time and this one may not even need it anyway.

[Salvatore]

What the machine shop does is, it gets it clean and then trues it up with a resurface. Its worth the 50 beans to me for that service!

[68l30]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: [email protected]</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What the machine shop does is, it gets it clean and then trues it up with a resurface. Its worth the 50 beans to me for that service! </div></div>

^^ That and it ain't worth f'n up a clutch disc and doing the job again... <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/scholar.gif


BIG

[GaryC]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 68l30</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: [email protected]</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What the machine shop does is, it gets it clean and then trues it up with a resurface. Its worth the 50 beans to me for that service! </div></div>

^^ That and it ain't worth f'n up a clutch disc and doing the job again... <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/scholar.gif


BIG </div></div>


Totally agree. This is something I hated messing with anyway if you don't have a lift. I have done a few with and without one and would rather do it once without a lift.

Thanks guys, I believe I know what my plan is for the flywheel now. All good info, I appreciate it. Do it once and do it right the first time. There is a local NAPA and a Manlove in my area I can take it too, but I believe it goes out to someone else from there, I'll have to check on that. Heck it may even go out of state if that is actually done.

[Salvatore]

Sounds good Gary! Case closed on the flywheel. NEXT.........

[GaryC]

This summer I plan on being busy. Tracton bar install, just about have all I need for putting the 302 back in the car except the head gaskets. Not exactly been able to find any good answers there, many opinions, but nothing concrete, especially for a stock rebuilt .030 over 302. Block is assembled, heads are done, distributor is ready, points and/or electronic, carb is fresh restored...but the head gaskets are holding me up. At least a dozen has been suggested but in the past year GM 10105117 and 3830711 are my choices. one is composite and the other is a shim.

That is what is next.

[GaryC]

I googled 10105117 head gasket and found some really good info on this composite gasket. I think I may have what I need there. I believe the quench will be where it needs to be and definitely under .050.

[Salvatore]

go for it!

[resto4u]

If it has heat cracking, you do not want to reuse. It completely changes the molecular structure of the steel.

[GaryC]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: resto4u</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If it has heat cracking, you do not want to reuse. It completely changes the molecular structure of the steel. </div></div>


Don't know how much of that is true but I have seen some sad looking flywheels in my day resurfaced with no problems. Maybe for a street car it would be fine but I think in a race engine it may be questionable.

[Salvatore]

yes heat cracking comes back. have to resurface as deep as possible to cut some of that out. I never had a problem with resurfaced flywheels.

[GaryC]

I haven't looked at the flywheel in about a year and to be honest I don't think it was very bad at all if I can remember. It's just covered with that typical rust look when something sits out in the humid air. I don't even think it has ever been cut before. How would anybody tell if it has ever been touched?