Best preservation product

[69z28302]

I was wondering what was best for preserving frame and steering parts without removing the paint.
I've heard Evaporust mentioned here.

Thanks Yenko.net

[DW31S]

I have a product that I saw advertised in one of the magazines. I forgot the name and it's been too darn cold for me to go to my garage, but I'll gladly share the name when I can. The product looks like a clear paste that when warmed turns to a liquid, is then brushed on bare metal, and dries clear with a protective coating. Sounds good in theory, but like I said, I haven't tried it yet.

[enio45]

is that RPM - paste product?

[cook_dw]

Sounds like Rust Prevention Magic (RPM)



http://c564296.r96.cf2.rackcdn.com/Articles/2013/01/14/i05-0213ae.jpg

[mockingbird812]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: enio45</div><div class="ubbcode-body">is that RPM - paste product? </div></div>

Don't worry Eddie, you don't live in Monaca anymore!!!!

[DW31S]

That could be it. Anybody have any results to share?

[67 442]

I have been using Boeshield for years now and it works very well.

[Billohio]

Does boe shield have to be reapplied?

[firstgenaddict]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Billohio</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does boe shield have to be reapplied? </div></div>

Yes Boeshield must be reapplied semi frequently,
Cosmoline works well, I found it to last much longer than Boeshield, it used to be available in aerosol cans.


Much of the preservation work performed is more or less an art which takes a while to get a grasp on, inevitably you are going to ruin something you were trying to preserve. It's best to practice techniques and products on some old interior parts and corroded suspension parts from that pontiac ventura or rambler project before starting in on an un-restored time capsule.

[Billohio]

I am on my second can of RPM. What I like on it is there is no sticky oil residue.

[enio45]

good stuff!! good results 18 months later that i have experienced

[whitetop]

Fluid Film works great..been using it for years.

[69z28302]

Let's see, so if I use Safest Rust Remover and top coat it with one of the products mentioned it should last quite awhile.

Thx
Mike

[P.J.]

Where can you buy RPM
PJ

[Billohio]

http://www.ecsautomotive.com/rpm.php?rpmlnk=main

[stritestoration]

I've been buying evaporust now from harbor freight by the gallon. wish I knew about it years ago. Put nuts/bolts or a hood latch, spring whatever overnight and by the next day the rust is gone and your hardware has its original finish back. I've been amazed at how an orange under the hood bolt comes out looking like it was replated with the black parkerized finish. It will save a ton of time, blasting and sending out to be replated. of courst if there is severe damage or pitting it will show. But on a nice southern car every nut and bolt will look perfect. spray some wd-40 or the protectants talk about to preserve and you'll be set.

[earntaz]

X2

[Canuck]

Evaporust is available in 5 gallon pails as well, been having a field day since Christmas cleaning up parts that I might oterwise have thrown out. Clened up my driveshaft by putting it in 4 inch PVC pipe capped at one end , took only about 2 gallons of Evaporust to do the job.
For my latest restoration I am committed to either using NOS or reconditioned original parts.

Paul

[stritestoration]

^ good call on the pvc, may try that on a shaft.

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Canuck</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Evaporust is available in 5 gallon pails as well, been having a field day since Christmas cleaning up parts that I might oterwise have thrown out. Clened up my driveshaft by putting it in 4 inch PVC pipe capped at one end , took only about 2 gallons of Evaporust to do the job.
For my latest restoration I am committed to either using NOS or reconditioned original parts.

Paul </div></div>

Hi Paul

Evaporust works on Canadian Oldsmobile rust?

Can you post a before and after picture?

Ryan

[Woj]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Canuck</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Evaporust is available in 5 gallon pails as well, been having a field day since Christmas cleaning up parts that I might oterwise have thrown out. Clened up my driveshaft by putting it in 4 inch PVC pipe capped at one end , took only about 2 gallons of Evaporust to do the job.
For my latest restoration I am committed to either using NOS or reconditioned original parts.

Paul </div></div>

Paul,

I was considering the same method to clean up a few drive shafts, glad to now know that it works. I bought 5 gallons of metal rescue and have been using on numerous projects. It has worked wonders on bolts, steel rims and license plates. For some survivor SS rims, I bought a 30 gallon plastic trash can and put the rims in it one at a time for several hours. I also put a $10 pump from harbor freight at the bottom to keep the fluid circulating. Worked great.

Phil Woj.

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

I would love to see some before and after pictures.

Ryan

[m22mike]

I had a nasty looking ash tray in my 69 Malibu, inside was rusty. After a night in the Evaporust it almost looks like fresh plating, very bright.

Mike

[cook_dw]

Here is the shaft I did for my 67. Using the same method of PVC pipe and evaporust. Just make sure you clean the shaft extrememly well before using the evapo. I also pulled it out after an over soaking and wiped all the black (it turns the rust into a black film) off and soaked it for another couple hours and below the the end result.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v687/superslow/1967%20Camaro/DSC03450_zps0b895da1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/superslow/media/1967%20Camaro/DSC03450_zps0b895da1.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v687/superslow/1967%20Camaro/DSC03451_zps633068ea.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/superslow/media/1967%20Camaro/DSC03451_zps633068ea.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v687/superslow/1967%20Camaro/DSC03473_zpsd397893e.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/superslow/media/1967%20Camaro/DSC03473_zpsd397893e.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v687/superslow/1967%20Camaro/DSC03474_zps096cbc32.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/superslow/media/1967%20Camaro/DSC03474_zps096cbc32.jpg.html)

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

Did that drive shaft actually come out looking new? Wow!!

I will invest $1000.00 dollars and dip the whole car:-)

Ryan

[cook_dw]

That is how it came out. I did nothing more than clean it and soak it. Afterward I painted the stripes back and cleared it.

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

OK I am dipping my car in this stuff!!

Ryan

[dl7265]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Canuck</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Evaporust is available in 5 gallon pails as well, been having a field day since Christmas cleaning up parts that I might oterwise have thrown out. Clened up my driveshaft by putting it in 4 inch PVC pipe capped at one end , took only about 2 gallons of Evaporust to do the job.
For my latest restoration I am committed to either using NOS or reconditioned original parts.

Paul </div></div>
I made the mistake of shipping my driveshaft to Quanta in a 4&quot; pvc. Not cheap as you know. They returned it in a single wall carboard box that was torn. Really. When i called they said &quot; uhh FedEx broke it&quot; Okay did you make a claim or call me to make a claim ? NO.!
SO I dip mine too, as well as intermediate steering shafts ect. great stuff.

DL

[Billohio]

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2015/05/full-13064-25458-img_20130502_102810_542.jpg
I found this after soaking in evaporust just to clean it up a little. The product is amazing to find a finish under surface rust

[camaromb]

Krown oil out of Canada is another great product for coating/rust protection. Its been used for many years in Canada for farm equipment/cars etc. It is sold in aerosol cans and also works well to knock down the light surface oxidation on metal parts.

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

Can I dip upper and lower control arms into evaporust even though the new bushings and ball joints have been installed?

[njsteve]

Yes. It doesn't hurt rubber. Make sure there is no grease or oil residue on them, otherwise it contaminates the liquid and also acts as a barrier preventing the liquid from doing its job on the metal.

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

Ok, thanks. So, I assume it's best to clean the control arms with some lacquer thinner first to remove oil and dirt before submerging them into the evaporust - sounds like a nice project that can be done at home during the cold winter months...

[njsteve]

Yup. Clean them nicely to get rid of all the grease. And heat the liquid. The warmer it is, the faster it works.

[camaromb]

Be careful of the hardened steel components such as the ball joint studs. I've had the Evaporust type products eat into the high carbon steel hardened shaft end of a pitman arm. It may have been in too long, I didn't expect the steel to erode away like it did.

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

I dug out the rust remover product I bought about 10 years ago but never opened; Safest Rust Remover?? I poured it into a tin pan and laid the end of a sway bar into it, let it sit over night - no change. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/mad.gif

[njsteve]

The stuff does degrade with time. If you used a metal pan it could have used itself up attacking the metal in the pan. I always used a plastic container. For really large or irregular shaped objects I would use plastic sheeting inside a kiddie pool so the object makes its own snug-fit recepticle from weighing down the sheeting.

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

I let it sit for a few days, it works - just VERY slowly! It turns the metal black, almost like a film, that comes off on your hands. I need to get Benjamin's Nova running by June, so I'm putting a blast cabinet together - I don't have time for this.... <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/eek.gif

[JRSully]

Marlin, hit Carlisle and get a Skat blasting cabinet, they go cheap there

[njsteve]

That black film is a carbon layer formed from sitting in the fluid. Wash it off and start again. FYI: You really need to filter the fluid through some clean rags before storing it. Any iron residue left in the fluid will cause it to keep working on that residue forever and will eventually reduce the effectiveness of the fluid to zero.

[Verne_Frantz]

Steve,
I had an idea to use an old parts washer with a filter added to the pump and an aquarium heater rod installed. That way I'd have warm filtered fluid circulating around the part. I'm hoping that the metal basin wouldn't cause the fluid to go dead because I'll have the filter going and the metal won't have any oxide on it. What do you think of the idea?
Verne

I was going to use one of these because I have plenty of spare elements.
http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2016/03/full-1145-41028-ac_fuel_filters_002.jpg

[njsteve]

I would refrain from having metal in the system. I had dipped a lower portion of a steering column housing in for too long and the potmetal (or aluminum?) section started showing deep pits. That was why I settled on a cheap plastic pool cover sump that I got from home depot.

Any idea what those filter housings are made of?

[Verne_Frantz]

They're aluminum Steve. I could always use those cheap plastic fuel filters. Now I'm more worried. I think the body of the circulating pump might be aluminum (or pot metal)

Verne

[lowmile]

Anyone ever soak a engine block in Evaporust? I have an early 67 Z/28 block cast in 1966, with some very interesting factory markings that I would like to preserve. m

[Billohio]

I thought I saw legendary motorcar do it on the show. they had a 55 gallon drum of evaporust!