1182 crank purchase

[Lynn]

Just received an 1182 crank that was advertised as std. std. The rods are std, and look perfect. Mains have been ground .010, but they also still look perfect, and it is apparent the crank was run after it was ground.

I can return it, but have to pay return shipping. I haven't seen a std. std. (other than the one in my current LT 1) in a while, so am contemplating keeping this one.

My only concern is that the factory "Tufftride" heat treatment has been removed. I know it is still a forged crank, and frankly, believe the heat treating is probably more important on the rods than the mains.

This is going in a high winding long rod (6") 350 that will see 7500 rpm. Would you run it, or hold out for a std. std. crank (if I can find one).

[VintageMusclecar]

Sucks you didn't receive what you thought you were getting. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/frown.gif

That said, if it passes mag, balance it and run it.

[scuncio]

Tufftride heat treatment should have no measurable effect on strength, but the wear resistance won't be quite as robust. I would not think twice about running it.

[ss427copo]

I'd run it and not look back.

[L78steve]

1182's are still easy to find in NOS. I just got one on Ebay never run in the box for $500. Another guy has 3 in Hickory NC. listed on Ebay.These are the Tufftride versions.

[L78steve]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231590881314?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&amp;ssPageNa me=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[L78steve]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-SBC-350-Forg...9bb&amp;vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-SBC-350-Forged-Nitride-Performance-Crankshaft-/131552999867?hash=item1ea12b79bb&amp;vxp=mtr)

[VintageMusclecar]

For ~$650-ish you can get into a decent aftermarket 4340 crank (not needed here, just for comparisons sake)

Lynn, if it makes you feel any better, nearly 30 years ago I had a <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="text-decoration: underline">cast</span></span> crank in a 355 in my daily driver `75 Monza. I turned that thing 7500+ nearly on a daily basis, and it lasted ~2 years before a piston finally succumbed to detonation and cracked off a top ring land.

The crank was still perfect and went back into service in another engine.

Man...those were the days...

[Lynn]

Considering what I paid (less than $300), I definitely did OK on this.
Will run it as is after a mag and polish, having the whole assy balanced.

[miket1]

A friend of mine has been drag racing 30 years or more, he said he turns down the crank in his drag race car .020/.020 to get less rotating area, less drag resistance.

[Salvatore]

What the above boys said. Tufftride really means very little IMO.
Back in the 70's early 80's when Modified Eliminator was around I do not believe any of those 283 cranks were tufftrided and spun 8-9,000 rpm's for the whole season in 3,700 lb cars to.
I have been running .20/.20 for 15 years now in my Z and not afraid to peg the needle.
Good prep is the key.

[VintageMusclecar]

The crank in my shop 302 project is a garden variety 283 steel crank that's been cut .010&quot;-.010&quot;. It's already seen 8000 rpm and 500+ HP and with any luck will see another 500-1000 rpm and 50-75 more HP. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/wink.gif

Run it. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

[Salvatore]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: VintageMusclecar</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The crank in my shop 302 project is a garden variety 283 steel crank that's been cut .010&quot;-.010&quot;. It's already seen 8000 rpm and 500+ HP and with any luck will see another 500-1000 rpm and 50-75 more HP. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/wink.gif

Run it. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif</div></div>

AMEN Eric!

[67 Nova Boy]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: [email protected]</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I have been running .20/.20 for 15 years now in my Z and not afraid to peg the needle.
Good prep is the key. </div></div>

I thought you a first &amp; reverse guy... No?

Dave
67 Nova Boy