Quarter Panel Replacement Strategies

[Diamond_Don]

If we assume that cost is not at issue (ha ha), what approach might members take with this quarter panel replacement scenario? The patient is a 1970 Nova, and I have NOS quarter panels and NOS outer wheel houses. The rust is in the normal places - wheel openings and lip, not too bad. Should I do a full quarter panel replace, or, should I have my NOS panel cut along the belt line so that the stamped numbers on the original panel remain? Or, are there other alternatives restorers use? I'm getting some "sell your NOS quarter panels to fund after market patch panels and body work", which somehow doesn't sit quite right with me.

Thanks

[Schonyenko2]

FWIW If cost is not an issue NOS pieces are a slam dunk. No use selling them if you don't need to.Re production qtrs like AMD fit very well. The issue with other than NOS is that they are off shore produced. Some people do not want off shore pieces on their car. It's a matter of personal preference.

I would suggest you put the qtr on at the factory joints. A good welder can cut out and transfer those stamps if you need to have them. A qtr hack at the belt line isn't something I'd do, or recommend. Wheel opening patches would be far better than a belt line repair.

[Diamond_Don]

Thanks. Full panel replacement was the original plan... then I started reading about these stamped numbers and probably I am over thinking things. Good plan, I will have the stamped portion cut off and saved. No one in my family will know what they are when I'm gone! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/burnout.gif

[WILMASBOYL78]

If you can do a quality repair and retain the original quarter that is always the best option IMHO. I agree with Schoney...the belt line approach is not good...if you are going that far, replace the whole thing. But, depending on the rust issues, I would opt to retain as much of the original 1/4 as possible.

Why not post some photos that show the bad areas.

wilma

[Diamond_Don]

Thanks for the opinions!

More info... to my eye, it looks like both quarters have never been hit or repaired. If I retain the original quarters, would I make use of the NOS wheel housings or try to save the old ones as well?

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2016/03/full-19693-40382-20160308_080315.jpg
http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2016/03/full-19693-40383-20160308_080332.jpg
http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2016/03/full-19693-40384-20160308_080359.jpg
http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2016/03/full-19693-40385-20160308_080450.jpg

[marxjunk]

its hard to repair what you have there and not be detectable...somewhere

id put the NOS pieces on...find a good shop local..find one with a resistance spot welder..like an I4 prospot, or a CR500 car-o-liner or varient...or even an good electron..these are real welders..they do a factory type spot weld and they carry enough power to do it right..the hand held harbor freight type stuff just doesnt work..it just doesnt...

i worked on the line before spot welding was cheap enough to be in every shop..i migged etc..and no matter what...i could tell and so could everyone else...that i was there..

a good spot welder..and an experienced tech and id say its undetectable..i believe that...or i wouldnt say it..use weld thru panel adheasive and a real spot welder..be tidy with the glue..and it will last ,longer than any one here will be alive...the glue iscorrosion protection and it works...just dont slop it all over the place...find a good detail oriented bodyman and you'll be set..

im a car-o-liner rep..i use RSW nearly daily..iknow what i can do and what a good tech can..i also see hacks and wacks often..the technology is there..just wiat til you can get it done right..

and i can guarantee...the cost diff from a hacker to a good shop is minimal..until you have to repair a hack job..id be afraid to hand my NOS stuff over to a shop unless i know they understand what you have and what you expect

[firstgenaddict]

Yes, I would put full quarters and outer wheel houses, make sure the outers are the correct forms in the lower front and rear, the repros are terrible...
If you section around the sheet metal date codes (leaving them in place) it will be nearly undetectable. well that is if the shop uses a mechanical pinch spot-welder and the correct foams and sealers.