Clutch recommendation

[markinnaples]

The clutch on my '68 gave up the ghost last night, so I'm looking for a new one and with the wealth of knowledge on here, thought I'd ask for any recommendations (or warnings) for a new clutch.
The car has a '69 DZ302 putting out about 550 hp with a Muncie 4 speed. Appreciate any comments.

[Charley Lillard]

I love Centerforce.

[novadude]

Agree with Charley. They make a nice product.

I am using a 10.5" Centerforce II in my Chevy II with a Ram 26 lb billet steel flywheel (part #1511), and it has been a great combination. Smooth engagement, light pedal, and no holding issues in my Chevy II that runs 12.9x @ 108 mph.

[396L78canuck]

I have a centerforce in my 70 Road Runner 440+6 with a 4 speed runs good and very light pedal for us older guys.Bob

[Billohio]

I have the dual friction centerforce in my gtx with a 600 hp hemi and my Z. Nice to use

[markinnaples]

Awesome, thanks for the recommendations. Sounds like everyone is happy with their Centerforce.
I've never changed a clutch before, but I hear it's not that difficult so this should be a new adventure.

Any tip or things I need to watch out for or make sure I do? Thanks again.

[WILMASBOYL78]

Make sure you replace the pilot bearing and throw out as well...a clutch alignment tool is helpful...I use an old trans input shaft. Inspect fly wheel to see if their is any checking or other damage...address as needed.

-wilma

[NorCam]

I've run Centerforce (not a huge fan), have run the Macleod RST twin in my hipo trifive (wasn't truly impressed), and now have a couple to try including a 10.5" Ram, and my favorite which is the 10.5" Hayes Gold (great clutch) which is on sale at Summit.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hay-85-103/overview/make/chevrolet

[Salvatore]

ran a Hays for many years. Bought a Ram setup but had issues at installment. I sent it back for a refund. Bought a LUK 10.5 for my 69 Z/28 and love the performance. Easy pedal, no issues at 7 grand and reasonable. I run L60 Mickeys in the back with never an issue. I like easy pedals because I am lazy and my daughter in laws can drive that car with ease which is even better yet.

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: [email protected]</div><div class="ubbcode-body">ran a Hays for many years. Bought a Ram setup but had issues at installment. I sent it back for a refund. Bought a LUK 10.5 for my 69 Z/28 and love the performance. Easy pedal, no issues at 7 grand and reasonable. I run L60 Mickeys in the back with never an issue. I like easy pedals because I am lazy and my daughter in laws can drive that car with ease which is even better yet. </div></div>

I have followed all the clutch recommendations for a while and then found that my car had a brand new LuK clutch assy..... And reports such as above have been positive so far. (Can't wait to have my own opinion)

Ryan

[novadude]

Something to consider about parts store clutches (Luk, etc) and high winding engines:

Centerforce tech dept told me the centerforce pressure plate has a ductile iron pressure ring (as did Hays). I believe some of the cheaper kits OEM replacement kits use a grey iron pressure ring, which has a higher chance of exiting the bellhousing in pieces when abused. I've never had any luck getting the OEM clutch people to answer any tech questions about the materials they use. You'll also find that many of the clutch companies use stamped covers from the same suppliers, as there are only one or two companies making the components than go into these clutches. All the &quot;manufacturers&quot; just source the components and build the assemblies to their own specs.

I suspect (don't know for sure) that the pressure ring material (ductile vs cast)is the difference between a $200 pressure plate and a $100 pressure plate.

[Steve Shauger]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: novadude</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Something to consider about parts store clutches (Luk, etc) and high winding engines:

Centerforce tech dept told me the centerforce pressure plate has a ductile iron pressure ring (as did Hays). I believe some of the cheaper kits OEM replacement kits use a grey iron pressure ring, which has a higher chance of exiting the bellhousing in pieces when abused. I've never had any luck getting the OEM clutch people to answer any tech questions about the materials they use. You'll also find that many of the clutch companies use stamped covers from the same suppliers, as there are only one or two companies making the components than go into these clutches. All the &quot;manufacturers&quot; just source the components and build the assemblies to their own specs.

I suspect (don't know for sure) that the pressure ring material (ductile vs cast)is the difference between a $200 pressure plate and a $100 pressure plate.</div></div>

That may be so, but you would think the higher priced clutches would identify this safety feature. I suspect that may not be the case, but again if it's true that would be a great selling feature. Safety is a priority for all of us.

[Salvatore]

Unless you are drag racing/hard thrashing and trying to spin a pair of slicks there is really no need for a blow proof unit. A quality manufacturer will work fine for the street and an occasional hard launch and high RPM's with street tires.
We ran L88 set-ups (diaphram) back in the 60's-70's purchased across the counter at Chevy driving to school and occasional racing on the weekends.

[novadude]

Like I said - the stock clutches may even have ductile pressure rings, but when I tried calling the Sachs and Luk &quot;tech line&quot;, nobody could tell me. The performance clutch companies at least gave answers (right or wrong). Hays even calls out this feature in the description of their street/strip clutch line.

[novadude]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: [email protected]</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Unless you are drag racing/hard thrashing and trying to spin a pair of slicks there is really no need for a blow proof unit. A quality manufacturer will work fine for the street and an occasional hard launch and high RPM's with street tires.
We ran L88 set-ups (diaphram) back in the 60's-70's purchased across the counter at Chevy driving to school and occasional racing on the weekends. </div></div>

I am occasionally drag racing/hard thrashing and trying to spin a pair of slicks (drag radials). <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/wink.gif That's what these cars were made for, right?

I just feel better knowing that I don't have a junk cast flywheel etc tucked inside my lightweight OEM aluminum Bellhousing. Remember - ALL the stock stuff you buy at parts stores these days is all coming from overseas, and I don't have the confidence that it is made to the same standards as GM-designed cast flywheels in American factories. Just because the stock stuff worked in the 60s doesn't mean that the OEM replacement shopped to the lowest Chinese bidder will perform the same.

[scuncio]

I will say this...if you have survived a clutch explosion, you will always run a steel bell. I know I will....

[L78_Nova]

I like my feet... At the strip on slicks, I drop the clutch on the 5K chip... floored! Steel Bell with Block saver. SFI approved flywheel , Disc and PP.
Fun Times.
Gary

[67 Nova Boy]

I have a Center force and I hate it...In stock ready to go is a Vintage from the 70's 26 spline Schiefer Clutch/Pressure plate and a GM steel lite weight flywheel {16LB} for when the Muncie comes out for an Autogear M23Z.

I will never run a clutch without a Scattershield {Lakewood of course} and block plate. Had a friend that had one let go and it came right through the floor...cut the console in half and grazed his foot. This was in a Buick back in 1978 but I learned it matters to be safe. Parts in the old days were way better made {Stock} then the junk now a days. Don't ever settle, Have your parts checked before you put them in the car...send flywheels to the machine shop to check run out and surface condition when new.

Dave
67 Nova Boy

[NorCam]

I have a McLeod 25lb SFI flywheel going into my 68 this winter along with an M22 Autogear and a Lakewood bell housing. I like my feet attached to my legs so I can shift, peddle the car and walk when I am done. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/smile.gif

[tjs44]

I like the quicktime bell way better than the Lakewood or McLeod.Have used all 3.Tom

[Salvatore]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: novadude</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: [email protected]</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Unless you are drag racing/hard thrashing and trying to spin a pair of slicks there is really no need for a blow proof unit. A quality manufacturer will work fine for the street and an occasional hard launch and high RPM's with street tires.
We ran L88 set-ups (diaphram) back in the 60's-70's purchased across the counter at Chevy driving to school and occasional racing on the weekends. </div></div>

I am occasionally drag racing/hard thrashing and trying to spin a pair of slicks (drag radials). <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/wink.gif That's what these cars were made for, right?

I just feel better knowing that I don't have a junk cast flywheel etc tucked inside my lightweight OEM aluminum Bellhousing. Remember - ALL the stock stuff you buy at parts stores these days is all coming from overseas, and I don't have the confidence that it is made to the same standards as GM-designed cast flywheels in American factories. Just because the stock stuff worked in the 60s doesn't mean that the OEM replacement shopped to the lowest Chinese bidder will perform the same.</div></div>

I don't think that black dual quad, E70 red line tired nova ever revved over 3 grand NovaBoy and that happened with a little dampness on the road surface. An aluminum cookie tray would work for your flywheel Buzz. YEAAA