Input on new shop

[Lynn]

Need to pull my permit for the detached shop pretty soon.
Considerations:
1. It is for working on cars. I don’t plan to do woodworking, or other projects
I need enough room to accommodate two small rooms about 10 x 10. One will be a bathroom (no shower, just a toilet and a deep sink) and will double as the compressor room (walled off) and storage for welders and welding rigs. The other room is what I call the dirty room, which will have a small work bench, a bench grinder that will double as a polisher, my solvent tank, and a sand blast cabinet. Don’t want it too big, as I don’t want to end up storing crap in there. Just do the dirty work without getting a ton of dust and dirt on the projects.
2. Must have room for a two post lift. I already have the lift, a used Ammco ; 137 inches from outside of posts. Has to have room for another vehicle to sit on a flat, for those projects that will take two cars to make one.
3. I don’t want general storage (other than the welding equipment referenced above). Have plenty.
4. I don’t want it big enough to accommodate an “extra” car (afraid I will bring home another project that I don’t’ need… or worse yet, agree to let a buddy store one here). However, if I am taking two to make one, I obviously need a large flat area to place big parts while working on the two cars.
5. Has to be simple enough so I can build it myself. I have plenty of help, and can get electrical and plumbing permits pulled OK. My lots already have water, gas and electricity to them. In fact, there used to be a Sinclair service station on the other end of where I am building.
6. I prefer not to have engineered trusse. I realize that means no clear span of the entire garage. However, because the lift is already something I have to walk around, maybe it wouldn’t be a problem if the inner supports were close to the lift.
So, looks to me like an oversize 3 car garage will work fine for what I need. Has to have 12 foot ceiling in at least one bay to accommodate the Ammco lift.
I found some on line plans that look very close to my specs. 34 wide, 38 deep. Pics attached. First pic is the front of our home when it was in the historic homes tour. Rest of the pics are of the proposed shop. You can see on the last one, that I am considering building doors to match our home’s faux door, even though there are two buildings between the home and the shop. We own those buildings as well.
Where the “lift” sits can be moved a bit forward or back.
Obviously, I don’t want to be cussing those two 5 foot long walls on either side of the lift. Trying to figure out how big a PITA they are going to be. The ones up front and at the doors really don’t bother me at all. In fact the front ones are necessary for me to add the two rooms anyway.

Thoughts?

[Lynn]

No input? Any of you guys doing work in a similar shop?

I know we try to be civil here, but don't be afraid of hurting my feelings.

I do plan to go 2 x 6 with the outer walls to allow more insulation, and all the ceiling hights will be about 6 inches taller because of the stemwall type footing I have planned.

[bergy]

nothing similar here Lynn. I put the compressor, media cabinet, & boiler (in floor heat) in a small, separate building. That media gets everywhere & the noise of the compressor is annoying.

[cook_dw]

Whatever closet or small room you put the compressor in put in some egg crate foam or something similar on the walls for sound deadening as well as a venting system to the outside.. Works really well..

[Charley Lillard]

Stating you don't want enough space to ad another car to your collection is just too much denial. You will need that space for that unknown car that you just had to have. Build that extra space.

[RPOLS3]

If you are not using the attic space for storage I'd go with the engineered trusses - they can make pretty much anything you want in terms of span, pitch and ceiling clearance. I'd also think twice about having those walls in between the bays as I think open space seems to work better over time. As your use/needs change you are not encumbered by bearing walls that get in the way.

[olredalert]

----Pay attention to both Charley and Jake. They know what they are talking about. Jake would be a wealth of construction info for you.....Bill S

[miket1]

Lynn, if you have the space build a 40'x60' w/ a 10'ceiling, 12' is even better using a lift.
I have a 30'x40' unattached work shop and it's too small for me.
I am looking to build a 40x60x12, or 40x80,12'
Plan for future expansion.
Good Luck.

[Supergas990]

I'm going to agree with several fols here.

The the biggest you are allowed and can afford. You'll nevere regret the extra space. 30x40 sounds big and looks very large empty. Then you start moving in and accumulating more stuff.

I built 10' 6" ceiling height and should have done 12'. More height with a lift makes everything better when working under the car, expecially if you're taller than 5' 6".


Lastly, I did in-floor radiant heat, and that is the single best decision I made. A warm floor makes the whole shop more comfortable.

Blair

[x77-69z28]

As someone who has grown out of everything I have ever built, GO BIG OR GO HOME! Have you thought of truss construction to eliminate posts in the middle of the structure?
Buddy
P.S. HAPPY BIRTHDAY LYNN!! I know the calendar is screwed up, and it's probably tomorrow, but let me be the first to wish you happy birthday!

[Plowman]

Let me be next to say "Happy Birthday Lynn",if the calendar is screwed up.

[bbbentley]

Happy B-Day Lynn <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif

Not exactly as fancy as your proposed structure, but I just had this erected. Mine is more utilitarian, but gets the job done. It has 12' engineered truss' and is 32'X32' (largest I could get in that area). It is directly across from my 36'X66' shop.
I like your building's aesthetics. I like the tall center door. If the supporting poles don't bother you (some guys like the open span) then go for the rafter design. I would get roll up curtains for each side of the center bay. That way you can have it open except when you need to heat up a work area, then the smaller area will be easier &amp; quicker to heat. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/01/full-13059-56292-img_5815.jpg

[Lynn]

Thanks for the happy b-day wishes guys.

Taking it all to heart, and putting a pencil to it. If I do a truss roof, it will be 12 foot ceiling minimum.

I still only plan on one lift, regardless of how big I build. Considering the clear span with trusses.

Metal building would probably be the cheapest, but not allowed in this location.

Trying to think of the future as much as possible. As you can tell from my profile, if you looked, I turned 64 today. I don't plan to fully retire from my law practice for another 19 years. I like what I do; we don't work that many hours; and I want to keep my mind active. My health is excellent, but I have lost several friends to accidental death, &amp; know I am not immune, just as everyone else isn't.

I know Charley thinks I am in denial about another car. I can honestly say, I am 100% certain I don't want a car I can't drive. I know I may run across &quot;that car&quot; that I just have to have, but would be willing to part with one of the current stable. We are at 10 now (not including parts cars both of which will be gone when their respective donee cars are done). Frankly, I don't want to keep up with more than 10. All 10 will fit nicely in our main garage (which is one reason why I don't need storage). Our cars are not particularly valuable compared to most collections, but they are fun cars that we like for varying reasons. We also have a concrete block 22 x 22 storage shed, and a very nice outbuilding.

The outbuilding is close to where we are putting the shop, so I could put the compressor in there. It is currently empty.

I have projects lined up that will keep me busy a minimum of 5 years. I won't be taking on new projects.

[L78 Fred]

Lynn,

Happy Birthday as well!

A few comments after 37 + years in construction- I built 4 clear span garages for myself, and renovated/modified 4 more and have learned a lot after the first couple.
take any of this advice as you wish.
1) You can never have enough space.
2)clear span construction with engineered trusses is the way to go, you can use a box truss configuration to gain the extra height for the lift area
3)Pay the money for good commercial/architectural grade insulated doors, the size of the garage doors on both sides of your lift bay are too small- those sizes have been obsolete for 30 years, I like a minimum 10' wide ( most of my garages are 11' wide one is 12')and I use 9' or larger for flexibility use a torsion spring with a low head room kit to minimize the additional height of the ceiling.
4) love the idea of the compressor in another room- use &quot;Rotten Cotton&quot; between the studs to deaden the noise, and as noted make sure you have a window in your blast room for ventilation and or external fan
5) I use 4000 PSi concrete for my floors (6&quot; use my lift) with wire while some people like fiber mesh instead of wire.
6) I highly recommend overhang of 12-24&quot; on the sides/eves and gutters
7) Since you can't use 29 gauge metal (cheapest), Frame garages breathe the best and you could use vinyl shiplap/german siding, hardy plank (concrete board) shiplap/german siding, bat and board, or concrete block
8)6&quot; walls are a great idea, and blown in irregular cut fiberglass insulation works very well, depending on your budget you could use a 1/4&quot; foil foam barrier behind the exterior wall for additional insulation.
9) I like 5/8&quot; X board Firerock drywall and there are some great other ones out there as well for any moisture issues and FRP ( fiberglass reinforced plastic) for the first 4' up for mechanical protection and looks good too.

more later if you want it- gotta help kids with home work

Best wishes
Fred

[Zman1969]

X2 on Fred, Charlies comments, I built a 30x30 and it filled up really fast if I had room I would of done 30x40 bit I didnt I did 10' ceiling that went to 12'6&quot; in center for lift and my joists were engineered. You will want heat and air I really dont need heat as I insulated it well a 2 ton window unit does the job cooling it otherwise it would be useless from June till September here in Dallas. I used Rustoleum on the floor as I know there would be spills and it cleans up easy and no staining yes it gets scratched up but I work in it and if you do put some antiskid down with it cause when its humid or wet it can be sliprier than a whales ...

edit: and I thought i was overzealous with electrical outlets and I still had to add some more plugs for my surround sound, projector, door opener, grinder ect all ended up in one location so plan what your goiong to have and where your going to have it