Solving the dreaded fuel line leaks

[Diamond_Don]

I saw this information on some old fuel pump installation instructions. It talks about a "teflon tape" treatment from the manufacturer. Does anyone know more about this treatment? Is there modern day process that accomplishes the same thing, and no, I'm not talking about plumber's tape here.

Right now, after re-seating many times, I have resorted to tightening my fittings way too hard. I feel something is going to give...

Thanks

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/01/full-19693-56802-fuel_pump_installation.jpg

[HawkX66]

You can buy liquid Teflon tape at all the usual places. I'm surprised you need it.

[Diamond_Don]

Thanks. Does this product have a name, is this what people safely use? I might have embellished the problem a bit, but the fuel definitely wells up and eventually drips at the fitting (vintage fuel pump with a new fuel line).

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

Are you using stainless lines?

[Diamond_Don]

I purchased from Inline Tube. Advertised as "70 Chevelle Pump to Carb - OE Steel". Thanks

[jasonL78]

Try this you should be able to buy it at any automotive store.

Google Loctite 567


The flare should seal it?

[HawkX66]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jasonL78</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Try this you should be able to buy it at any automotive store.

Google Loctite 567


The flare should seal it?

</div></div>
That's the stuff. I agree, OE steel shouldn't be causing those problems and the flare should seal it. OP, you might want to talk to Right Stuff/Inline before you do anything. They might have you exchange the line that's causing the issue.
Have you looked at the flare? Any grit? Misshapen? You might be able to get away with just putting a flaring tool on it and giving it a twist or two. Look at where the flare seats too. It should be clean.

[Donnie]

I had the same problem. <span style="font-weight: bold">a tip from Mr. Eric Jackson</span>
put a little grease on the back side of the flare where the threads turn against it and it sealed right up for me. I also put a little on the threads.

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

I asked about the SS because sometimes the SS lines can be hard to seal....

[Diamond_Don]

O.K. Great tips! I'll re-check the flare, dab the grease, and look for the Loctite product if still necessary.

*** Thanks ***

[WILMASBOYL78]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Donnie</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I had the same problem. <span style="font-weight: bold">a tip from Mr. Eric Jackson</span>
put a little grease on the back side of the flare where the threads turn against it and it sealed right up for me. I also put a little on the threads. </div></div>

Like he said <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

Eric Knows <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/worship.gif

[earntaz]

Inverted flare fittings do not need any sealant -- the threaded portion of the fitting is NOT the sealing surface. Lub as described above should be all that is needed. TAZ

[earntaz]

For what it's worth, pipe thread fitting (such as heater hose fittings in a water pump or intake) -- the use of Teflon (DuPont TM) tape is norm. Not to be confused with cheaper tapes -- I have always used Teflon thread seal tape with a Mil Spec T 27730A. TAZ

[napa68]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I asked about the SS because sometimes the SS lines can be hard to seal.... </div></div>

THIS^^^^^^^^^^^

[Mr.Nickey Nova]

I used a little wheel bearing grease on the threads, worked fine.

[SS427]

More and more manufacturers are using imported steel tubes to make their lines. I have been noticing over the last couple of years that I am having more frequent issues with brake and fuel line seepage and it has appeared to me that the flare is often times not perpendicular to the tube and also has either an over compressed flare or not flared enough. I guess I would say typical import junk. The color of the &quot;OE steel&quot; is also not the same as it was several years ago. I now check every line and fitting BEFORE I set them in the car to see if I can catch any defects.

[earntaz]

Goes right along with that saying -- &quot;there's never enough time to do something right the first time ... but there's always enough time to do it over again&quot; ... TAZ

[HawkX66]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SS427</div><div class="ubbcode-body">More and more manufacturers are using imported steel tubes to make their lines. I have been noticing over the last couple of years that I am having more frequent issues with brake and fuel line seepage and it has appeared to me that the flare is often times not perpendicular to the tube and also has either an over compressed flare or not flared enough. I guess I would say typical import junk. The color of the &quot;OE steel&quot; is also not the same as it was several years ago. I now check every line and fitting BEFORE I set them in the car to see if I can catch any defects. </div></div>
It's interesting that you say that. Shortly after I bought my brake and fuel lines from Right Stuff/Inline, my understanding is they started outsourcing.

[Bill Pritchard]

As others have said here, it's the flare that does the sealing, <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="text-decoration: underline">NOT</span></span> the threads. If you are depending on the Teflon tape - or whatever - on the threads to do the sealing, you have a problem elsewhere. Using a small amount of lubricant on these threads or the back side of the flare is a good idea. These are <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="text-decoration: underline">NOT</span></span> pipe threads like are used elsewhere on the car (i.e., threaded coolant fittings)....pipe threads <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="text-decoration: underline">DO</span></span> depend on the threads for doing the sealing, but brake line and fuel line fittings use a regular machine thread, that is only used to pull the flared fitting portions tight against each other.

[Enoch]

In the past I have actually inspected the ends of the flares and sometimes had to lightly file them down in order for them to make a seal typically it's just a bur or two that needs to be taken off. Just enough to make it perfectly Square