PDA

View Full Version : 1969 Charger RT Resto


sixt9rsx33
02-18-2017, 12:51 PM
Well the ole girl is close to getting blasted then to paint. I will be busy restoring parts and sending parts out to be restored. While taking out the back seat I found the third build sheet. I have known this car since I was 16. My neighbor owned it and is a local Charlotte car with original drivetrain and body panels. Here are few pics of the car.

sixt9rsx33
02-18-2017, 12:53 PM
Here are a few more.

sixt9rsx33
02-18-2017, 12:54 PM
Few more

m22mike
02-18-2017, 01:11 PM
Love the 69's, I am a closet Charger guy, had a Triple med green fire breathing 318 back in the day. Those are great cars. Keep use posted. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

Mike

njsteve
02-18-2017, 01:14 PM
What color was it originally? Nice project! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

mockingbird812
02-18-2017, 01:27 PM
Eww, I like it! Looks like a real dry car. Drivetrain? Please keep us posted. My Dad had a red w/ black VT '68 with a 318. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

sixt9rsx33
02-18-2017, 01:28 PM
Original color was R6. Sorta like Garnett Red, black vinyl top and a black tail stripe.

Here are a few pics of the original paint under the vinyl top and under the black rattle car.

mockingbird812
02-18-2017, 01:30 PM
My goodness - that is the same color scheme that my Dad had! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/laugh.gif

chevyman0429
02-18-2017, 01:40 PM
Man look at those pans very nice!

sixt9rsx33
02-18-2017, 01:41 PM
Thanks Guys!

njsteve
02-18-2017, 03:47 PM
Nice: 440 Magnum and A/C. Automatic I presume?

mockingbird812
02-18-2017, 04:21 PM
Since 8 3/4 rear is original I'm thinking it would have to be an automatic.

njsteve
02-18-2017, 04:24 PM
You are correct, Sir! I forgot about that. Probably a 3.23 given the A/C

sixt9rsx33
02-18-2017, 09:36 PM
Here are a few pics from today, after I pressure washed the K member and rear end.
The car has some kinda strange options, auto, A/C, rear defogger, PS, drum brakes, am, fader, vinyl top, tail stripe, road wheels with redline tires, undercoating, no light package or PB, or Sure Grip. Open with a 3.23..

sixt9rsx33
02-18-2017, 09:38 PM
Few more pics. Can some one tell me what the yellow numbers mean on the rear end tube?

Thanks Guys,

Lawrence

442w30
02-18-2017, 11:23 PM
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mockingbird812</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Since 8 3/4 rear is original I'm thinking it would have to be an automatic. </div></div>

Additionally, no AC with 4-speeds.

markinnaples
02-20-2017, 03:47 PM
Looks very clean. Going back to the original color?

A12pilot
02-20-2017, 07:35 PM
The 593 is the axle code for a 3.23, non-suregrip rear which is what your car is equipped with. The other yellow numbers that may not be visible are the month/day stamp of the housing assembly, along with an inspector's letter or number. Look in the underside of the large center rib, drivers side, for the date of the 3rd member assembly. Should be 2 to 4 digits for day and month. Also, you'll find on the underside of the pumpkin paint stripes which indicate the gears installed. I think the 3.23 open would be three black stripes. If it was a suregrip, I think it was 1 orange and 3 white. I'm not 100% on those markings though....just going off memory. The back of the carrier housing will have a large &quot;B&quot; for B-Body, which Chrysler started using to mark axle assemblies in 1969 versus the assembly year. Like In 1968, they were marked with a &quot;D&quot;. There may also be a white circle with an X through it. Lots of opinions on what that means: inspected and OK....serviced.....sure grip. If it was a Suregrip rear, the filler plug would have an orange paint blip on it.

Hope that helps!

Cheers <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif

A12pilot
02-20-2017, 07:37 PM
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 442w30</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mockingbird812</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Since 8 3/4 rear is original I'm thinking it would have to be an automatic. </div></div>

Additionally, no AC with 4-speeds. </div></div>

A little bit of a myth on that one. Several examples of A/C cars with 4spds <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif Several in the 69 Charger Registry, and my good friend owns a 69 Bee, 383-4spd car with factory A/C.

If what you meant was no R/Ts with A/C and a 4spd, then yes since all R/Ts came with 440s. But then again, I think there is a Y39 special order car that came with it. But as a rule, no 440-4spd cars, just 383-4spd cars. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif Welcome to Mopars and all the crazy crap associated with them!!

Cheers

Dave

sixt9rsx33
02-21-2017, 02:13 AM
Thanks Dave great info on my car.

njsteve
02-21-2017, 02:27 AM
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: A12pilot</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 442w30</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mockingbird812</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Since 8 3/4 rear is original I'm thinking it would have to be an automatic. </div></div>

Additionally, no AC with 4-speeds. </div></div>

A little bit of a myth on that one. Several examples of A/C cars with 4spds <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif Several in the 69 Charger Registry, and my good friend owns a 69 Bee, 383-4spd car with factory A/C.

If what you meant was no R/Ts with A/C and a 4spd, then yes since all R/Ts came with 440s. But then again, I think there is a Y39 special order car that came with it. But as a rule, no 440-4spd cars, just 383-4spd cars. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif Welcome to Mopars and all the crazy crap associated with them!!

Cheers

Dave </div></div>

You could get a 1970 Charger R/T with a 440, 4-speed and A/C, as well as a U-code 440 Cuda or Challenger R/T.

A12pilot
02-21-2017, 12:31 PM
Yes....That's 70. We're talking 1969. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif

Cheers <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif

Dave

442w30
02-22-2017, 12:18 AM
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: A12pilot</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

A little bit of a myth on that one.

</div></div>

No, no myth at all:

http://www.hamtramck-historical.com/images/dealerships/DealershipDataBook/1969/69_Charger0016.jpg

I felt the context of the conversation made it clear I was talking about the Charger R/T. :twocents:

A12pilot
02-22-2017, 12:42 AM
No, you didn't make it clear with the statement &quot; no AC with 4 speeds&quot;. At least that's not how interpreted it. See, my brain can't process implied thoughts. I can't think that deep! <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif Now, if you said &quot;no A/C with Charger R/Ts with 4 speeds&quot;. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif then my pea brain would have understood Big difference! My misunderstanding, sorry about that.

But that chart isn't correct you posted either. Plenty of 383-2bbl Chargers out there with AC. I owned one. Here's the tag..... http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2017/02/full-18993-58490-69sale_025.jpg
69...383-2bbl, G-Code. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif
Unless that means 383-2bbl 4 SPD cars, and in that case, I haven't come across any 383-2bbl 4spd cars, much less ones with A/C. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/dunno.gif And I believe the reason for that, no 383-2bbl 4spd cars that is, is that the 2bbl exhaust manifolds do not clear the Z-Bar for the clutch linkage. I know this because I converted that car to a 4spd and had to add HP exhaust manifolds. That 2bbl log dumped right where the Z-Bar mounted.

Cheers <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif

Dave

442w30
02-22-2017, 03:31 PM
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: A12pilot</div><div class="ubbcode-body">My misunderstanding, sorry about that. </div></div>

Nah, it's all good.

Anyway, I believe the item I posted was a pre-production piece because, after 1968, Chrysler stopped offering a 4-speed behind the 383-2.

sixt9rsx33
02-26-2017, 11:06 AM
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: markinnaples</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Looks very clean. Going back to the original color?</div></div>

Yes going back with R6

sixt9rsx33
02-26-2017, 04:53 PM
Here are some pics after the car was soda blasted. A few spot areas will be sand blasted but nothing major. The ole' girl was backed into or something similar based on the bondo on the left rear quarter. I knew it was there so no surprise there. Also knew of the front right fender above the bumper getting tapped. The only real surprise is that the front left fender had been replaced. Apparently back in the day best I can tell it is a Chrysler piece. Also there are a few pin holes in the corners of the lower valance, but thankfully nothing major. The trunk pan is questionable. Just the center section needs to be possibly replaced. I will let Ronnie the painter let me know his thoughts.

sixt9rsx33
02-26-2017, 05:00 PM
I want to try and save the original headliner. Maybe a mistake?? That is the reason the Charger emblems are still on the sail panel. The painter was going to remove the bottom of the headliner and then remove the emblems. We will see, maybe just install a new headliner?
More pics

cook_dw
02-27-2017, 11:49 AM
Cool project. Ive always wanted one of those cars.. Probably the General Lee influence growing up..

sixt9rsx33
03-13-2017, 01:13 AM
The body dings are fixed and the paint process begins.

markinnaples
03-13-2017, 03:02 PM
Looking good.

sixt9rsx33
03-22-2017, 10:59 AM
Wiper motor is all finished off, and the heater control valve is close to being done. Still a little work left on that piece. Was covered with black rattle can paint, and corrosion. White vinegar cleaned up well and also freed up the moving parts.

sixt9rsx33
04-13-2017, 12:08 AM
Here is my car in color but the clear is sanded on the sides. I really like the R6, and with the black vinyl top and the black tail stripe I think it will look good. Busy restoring the heater box, k-member, rear end and various small components. Mike Ross of B/E & A did my grill and it looks great from pics. Look forward to getting the high school car back on the road.

sixt9rsx33
04-13-2017, 12:20 AM
Pics

mockingbird812
04-13-2017, 12:23 AM
My goodness that'll be gorgeous!!!!!!!!

sixt9rsx33
04-18-2017, 12:25 PM
Coming along. Still have some work to do in the trunk. The floor had a few small holes which we elected to repair, and not replace. Once that is done and the black stripe is installed back to the shop.

MosportGreen66
04-19-2017, 12:12 PM
Wow nice Lance... wasting no time!

cook_dw
04-19-2017, 12:27 PM
That is a very pretty color.. Nice progress.

sixt9rsx33
04-20-2017, 10:49 AM
I have been trying to post new pictures but keep getting a security token error message. Dead in the water right now :(

sixt9rsx33
05-13-2017, 05:44 PM
I hope to have time to start the assembly. The sub assemblies are starting to come back in from the resto shops.

sixt9rsx33
05-13-2017, 05:45 PM
closer

sixt9rsx33
05-13-2017, 05:46 PM
getting closer

m22mike
05-13-2017, 09:28 PM
:drool: That's all I got to say.

njsteve
05-14-2017, 09:33 PM
getting closer

That had to be the scariest trailer ride I could ever imagine. I'd be rolling along at walking speed to get it home in one piece.

sixt9rsx33
05-15-2017, 11:25 AM
Yes it was a scary ride but we got her to the shop safe and sound.

sixt9rsx33
08-05-2017, 12:37 PM
I have not posted in sometime. I am still waiting on the suspension resto....tick tock...tick tock....:shocked:The engine is about complete. Very excited about this build. :headbang:Nothing over the top just fairly stock with an emphasis on the heads to produce nice low end torque for fun driveability and good burnouts!:burnout:

The rear tailpain trim is all original just removed polished and screwed back on the car. So nice to have a rust free car:wink: Same story with wheel well trim. Polished and screwed it right back in the factory holes.

The driveshaft was soaked in a tube of Evap o rust pulled it out and there was this white square painted on the tube. Not sure what that means. I painted it back on. There were two other areas that appeared to have paint on the shaft but apparently the evap o rust removed that paint during the process:frown:I am still researching this and hopefully will figure out the other colors so I can reapply.

Today will install the heater box, and a few more items under the hood. Still waiting on a few trinkets under the hood.

sixt9rsx33
08-05-2017, 12:41 PM
Tailpan trim

sixt9rsx33
08-05-2017, 12:42 PM
Engine

sixt9rsx33
08-05-2017, 12:43 PM
Try again

sixt9rsx33
08-05-2017, 12:44 PM
few more

sixt9rsx33
08-05-2017, 12:47 PM
last one

sixt9rsx33
08-05-2017, 06:34 PM
Got the heater box and master cylinder installed this morning. I have a few detail items to do under the hood.

mockingbird812
08-05-2017, 11:35 PM
Looks just great. Love the vinyl top with this color scheme. Keep the pix coming!!!!!!!!

m22mike
08-06-2017, 11:35 AM
:worship: :drool:

cook_dw
08-06-2017, 01:45 PM
I really like this cars.. Great job and keep it up!!

Lee Stewart
08-06-2017, 07:16 PM
beautiful work!

If you are going for "factory built" the master cylinder and cover should be painted gloss black.

sixt9rsx33
08-06-2017, 10:33 PM
beautiful work!

If you are going for "factory built" the master cylinder and cover should be painted gloss black.

Hey Lee thanks. On a 1969 drum brake car the cover is yellow zinc and the body is cast natural. On a 1969 disc brake car everything including booster is painted black

Lawrence

sixt9rsx33
08-06-2017, 10:36 PM
Grill is ready to be installed in the frame. The factory actuators, hardware and fasteners all re used.

mockingbird812
08-06-2017, 11:30 PM
Hide-aways are cool!!!!!!

sixt9rsx33
08-19-2017, 11:44 PM
Coming along...lots of orange paint...

sixt9rsx33
08-19-2017, 11:46 PM
Engine compartment

mockingbird812
08-20-2017, 10:02 AM
Sumptuous! What a great red! I know all of the closet Mopar guys are drooling behind their screens!

Ryan1969Chevelle
08-20-2017, 11:11 AM
Drooling!!

The red is beautiful:-)

Ryan

mockingbird812
08-20-2017, 11:18 AM
...told you so!

sixt9rsx33
08-20-2017, 01:42 PM
Thanks guys....appreciate it..

I am trying to put the car back to OEM specs. If anyone sees anything incorrect please let me know. All comments are welcome. This is my first Mopar Resto so a slow go to say the least. A12 Pilot has been a ton of help thus far. Thanks Dave!

Lawrence

njsteve
08-20-2017, 01:52 PM
Looks beautiful. The only problem area I see is the red paint on the shock absorber bushings on the inner fenders. Need to be natural black rubber with the large cad-plated washer on top.

sixt9rsx33
08-21-2017, 01:38 AM
Thanks Steve. I failed to mention that I had that on my list to correct. Thanks for pointing that out. Please let me know of any other issues as I post more pics.

sixt9rsx33
09-10-2017, 09:19 PM
I got the K member back. Here are a few detail pics. Hope to get the rear end back soon. Once I get that back project should pick up steam.

sixt9rsx33
09-10-2017, 09:22 PM
Few more
Constructive criticism is welcome!!

cook_dw
09-11-2017, 12:50 PM
Lookin' good. Cant wait to see more progress.

njsteve
09-11-2017, 06:05 PM
Looks great! I think the red paint should cover all of the face of the drum including the lug nut area where the wheel mounts. On my previous Mopars, that was actually the only place where the red would still remain after a few decades as it was protected from the elements by the wheel face. The cosmoline they used for dipping the lower controls arms in, was a much heavier molasses-ier (if that's actually a word) looking substance. I used spray-on amber rustproofing when I used to do mine. I had to do many coats to get the caramel brown finish correctly.

This stuff is good: https://www.tat-co.com/Products/Repair/Specialty-Coatings/Amber-Rustproofing

Canuck
09-11-2017, 10:18 PM
You might want to install the upper control arms to the Body/inner fender structure before you drop the body onto the subframe. The weight of the drum already attached to the A Arm might make installation difficult.

A12pilot
09-12-2017, 12:40 PM
Lawrence,

Looking good! You did good on the brake drums. They were not painted on the mounting surface or the wheel stud area. See attached factory document.

Looks great! Keep up the good work!

Cheers

Dave

njsteve
09-12-2017, 03:43 PM
Interesting to see what the factory recommended versus what the assembly line workers actually did at high speed. I'll try to dig up some photos from my archives.

A12pilot
09-12-2017, 03:55 PM
Yes.... and I think you'll find for every ONE example that you find, you'll find 10,000 done correctly. That's the document that says how it's supposed to be done, man. He's going for what was correct. That's what's correct:biggthumpup::biggthumpup:

sixt9rsx33
09-12-2017, 04:09 PM
Thanks guys. Yea I was not so happy with the spray cosmoline I used. That is three heavy coats. I may see if I can spray more on the lower control arms for more apparent coverage.

sixt9rsx33
09-12-2017, 04:11 PM
Lawrence,

Looking good! You did good on the brake drums. They were not painted on the mounting surface or the wheel stud area. See attached factory document.

Looks great! Keep up the good work!

Cheers

Dave

Dave, thanks for all the help thus far. Your knowledge is impeccable. Sure I will be bugging you more in the future!!!:headbang::headbang:

njsteve
09-12-2017, 06:37 PM
Yes.... and I think you'll find for every ONE example that you find, you'll find 10,000 done correctly. That's the document that says how it's supposed to be done, man. He's going for what was correct. That's what's correct:biggthumpup::biggthumpup:

I would concur with that. Do it how it was SUPPOSED to be done had they given a damn on the assembly line that day. :-)

A12pilot
09-12-2017, 08:55 PM
Exactly, Steve! We all know there were always exceptions to the rules when it came to "Get that car down the line!":thumbsdown: You're always safe with how it was "Supposed" to be done, unless your individual car shows different and you can show that. Every brand has it's individual nuances...and seems Mopars take the cake!!!:frown:

All good stuff!!!!! And Lawrence, my "impeccable" knowledge is just regurgitation from everyone else I've learned it from!!! I'm happy to help, and more happy to LEARN from the other guys that have forgotten more than I'll ever know!:burnout:

Now....lets see the ever so popular "drop" of the car onto the k-member!!!!

Cheers

Dave

A12pilot
11-03-2017, 08:19 PM
Updates please....i know you have them Lawrence. Don't make me jumpseat up there! :drool:

See you in a few weeks at MCACN!

Cheers
Dave

RS_COPO_Canuck
11-06-2017, 12:37 PM
My original drums on my Bird

Does the car have steelies or road wheels? No drum red paint on steelies - just on "styled" wheels.

The engine ground strap (rear) was on the engine when it was painted and the terminal end was masked off....from my GTX

When I can I will have a look through your pics again.

Car looks great....I like R6!

sixt9rsx33
11-11-2017, 01:23 PM
I have been slack posting. Here are a few updates. Including cleaning the dash. Dave pointed out to me the date code on the rear end piece being very early in 68. Kind of throws out the window the theory of parts being within a 90 day window of assembly.

sixt9rsx33
11-11-2017, 01:28 PM
The image that looks like a paint spill is just that. When the rear end came out of the Evap o Rust there was a paint spill there. So I duplicated it.

sixt9rsx33
11-11-2017, 01:37 PM
I am still working on the dash, but it is cleaning up real nice. I ordered a Tic Tock Tach and once here will install that.
Thanks to A12 Pilot:grin: I have a brand new headlight vacuum line system for the headlight system. Very kind Pay Forward:headbang:

sixt9rsx33
11-11-2017, 01:44 PM
Dash pics. The area of the dash below the VIN plate had a small amount of rust damage. The original windshield was in the car so I assume the seal failed allowing water to collect on this corner. I am treating it with Evap O Rust and a blue paper towel. The area is responding well. I will probably lightly sand that area and then shoot the corner with textured paint. Before I do that I am going to test it. If it looks worse with the paint I will leave well enough alone.

sixt9rsx33
11-15-2017, 01:18 AM
Got the rear end in the car today!!! Yea!!!😃😃
Engine in the K member, picked up the compressor. Will install that tomorrow. Hopefully drop the car on the K member in a few days😊😊

A12pilot
11-15-2017, 05:39 PM
Woohoo! Good work Lawrence!! It'll be so rewarding when you turn that key. And if it's like me....it'll be a "click...click....click.....":eek2::laugh:

Looking good man!

Cheers:beers:
Dave

mockingbird812
11-15-2017, 05:50 PM
Yeah, looking real nice!

396L78canuck
11-15-2017, 07:51 PM
Wow looks really nice.bob

m22mike
11-15-2017, 09:08 PM
:drool:.......:drool:...and...:worship:

sixt9rsx33
11-15-2017, 09:57 PM
Woohoo! Good work Lawrence!! It'll be so rewarding when you turn that key. And if it's like me....it'll be a "click...click....click.....":eek2::laugh:

Looking good man!

Cheers:beers:
Dave

Thanks Dave! I hope to get the click click click!!:confused2:

sixt9rsx33
11-15-2017, 09:58 PM
Thanks guys...getting fired up to get it on the road

sixt9rsx33
11-29-2017, 10:52 AM
Engine and tranny are in!!! The ole girl is coming along

A12pilot
11-30-2017, 01:19 PM
I remember that day! Woohoo! Looking awesome!

Cheers
Dave

mockingbird812
11-30-2017, 06:02 PM
Smokin'!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

cook_dw
12-01-2017, 12:10 PM
Between the A12 of Dave's and this Charger I'm really digging these Mopars more and more. Fantastic work.

sixt9rsx33
12-01-2017, 09:45 PM
Thanks Darrell��. Mopars are definitely cool cars. So different than GM IMO.

sixt9rsx33
12-01-2017, 09:49 PM
Original bumper plated and installed. Very pleased with the figment and really how things are coming along. I will be putting the dash in next week. Trunk is all finished. Except the decals.

sixt9rsx33
12-01-2017, 09:50 PM
Oops posted the same pic twice

mockingbird812
12-01-2017, 10:42 PM
Nice hiney on that Charger! Love it!

Stefano
12-03-2017, 07:40 PM
Nice job!

sixt9rsx33
12-17-2017, 01:10 AM
Here are a few more updated photos. The wheels are temp. The ones I want are actually the full chrome 68 Road wheels but they can’t be ordered until February. The tie wraps on the heater hoses are temp too.

454_Malibu
12-17-2017, 11:19 PM
I Luv this Charger,, Awesome Job.

RJS
12-23-2017, 11:59 PM
Wish I would have seen this post sooner, you have a few incorrect items.
Alternator has a new style pulley on it and the pulley should be black like all other pulley's.
Looks like your using old strut rod bushings, I see cracking in the pictures and that is a No No.
You coil looks old, should be semi gloss black with Green Lettering and date code.
Coil bracket should be silver zinc.
The whole steering box should be painted Black but not the spline d shaft.
PCV valve and grommet engine color.
The vacuum fittings screwed into the intake and water pump housing including the temp. sender shouldn't be painted.
The oil pressure switch at rear of block looks used, should be yellow cad. plated.
Rear marker light Bezels should be stripe color (Black)
Upper shock bushings should have never been left in there during painting process.
Oval plastic plug on lower driver side of engine compartment shouldn't be painted either.
Distributor cap should be Tan not Black.
I saw the Pentastar still on passenger fender during priming, hopefully wasn't painted over with R6.
Ground-strap at rear of manifold painted with engine same as Neg. Battery cable.
Voltage regulator show have yellow print on it and date code.
The bracket at rear of engine that the #8 wire passes through needs to be spun upward. The round white plastic grommet that would snap that wire into it goes unpainted.
This is way I remember without going back through the past 11 pages.
Ron

sixt9rsx33
12-24-2017, 01:03 PM
Wish I would have seen this post sooner, you have a few incorrect items.
Alternator has a new style pulley on it and the pulley should be black like all other pulley's.
Looks like your using old strut rod bushings, I see cracking in the pictures and that is a No No.
You coil looks old, should be semi gloss black with Green Lettering and date code.
Coil bracket should be silver zinc.
The whole steering box should be painted Black but not the spline d shaft.
PCV valve and grommet engine color.
The vacuum fittings screwed into the intake and water pump housing including the temp. sender shouldn't be painted.
The oil pressure switch at rear of block looks used, should be yellow cad. plated.
Rear marker light Bezels should be stripe color (Black)
Upper shock bushings should have never been left in there during painting process.
Oval plastic plug on lower driver side of engine compartment shouldn't be painted either.
Distributor cap should be Tan not Black.
I saw the Pentastar still on passenger fender during priming, hopefully wasn't painted over with R6.
Ground-strap at rear of manifold painted with engine same as Neg. Battery cable.
Voltage regulator show have yellow print on it and date code.
The bracket at rear of engine that the #8 wire passes through needs to be spun upward. The round white plastic grommet that would snap that wire into it goes unpainted.
This is way I remember without going back through the past 11 pages.
Ron


RJS thanks for the items to work on. I have a few questions/comments.
Will replace alternator pulley...thanks for the heads up
Yes used the original strut rod bushing trying to preserve the bushings that have "Front" script on them. They seemed to be ok when we put the front end together but will consider replacing
The rear light bezels, are they painted black? I cut the stripe and stuffed it in the rear light body hole.
Yea the coil is original. It looked a little nasty when I pulled it off. I will repaint semi-gloss, or will consider a repro coil with the correct green lettering with date code.
Will remove paint from coil bracket...thanks...
Will correct PCV
Will look at the steering box.
Used the same oil sending unit. I have noticed it needs to be clean. It is gold dichromate now
The items that are screwed into the intake that are not supposed to be painted will be corrected...thank you
Upper shock bushings have been replaced.
Oval plug in the lower driver side needs to be stripped of paint....agree
Will replace D cap
New Pentastar installed in passenger fender
Rear ground strap is painted now
Voltage regulator was original, and had green paint on it before I painted it. I tried to preserve it but it was just too far gone. Actually had spray bomb over it. Took that off and that is when I saw the original paint and green font. Decided to go with the original in this condition for now.
Will correct the #8 plug wire support.

Thank you for the heads up on this stuff. First Mopar resto I have done. Keep the comments coming. Very helpful.

Lawrence

RJS
12-24-2017, 05:35 PM
Yes rear bezel for reflector needs to be painted Black as stripe color. They would "X" cut the stripe and fold it in.
The regulator in 69 if very early would have red print on it. (mostly 68's used the red print) 69 used a yellow print.
Google these guys:
Frank Badalson
Bill Rolick
Bill Meerholz
ECS Automotive

They are the good places an OE type resto would need.
Also Mega is a great place for parts too.

RJS
12-24-2017, 05:46 PM
This was my 69 Coronet R/T 440
Throttle spring was later changed to silver and V.Regulator to one with proper date code and Yellow script

RJS
12-24-2017, 11:53 PM
Here's my old 70 GTX 440 showing the #8 wire holder, oil pressure switch, coil and bracket, vacuum fittings in manifold etc...

sixt9rsx33
12-25-2017, 12:50 AM
Yes rear bezel for reflector needs to be painted Black as stripe color. They would "X" cut the stripe and fold it in.
The regulator in 69 if very early would have red print on it. (mostly 68's used the red print) 69 used a yellow print.
Google these guys:
Frank Badalson
Bill Rolick
Bill Meerholz
ECS Automotive

They are the good places an OE type resto would need.
Also Mega is a great place for parts too.

Yep have bought from Frank, Rolik and ECS, but not Bill Meerholz. I got my exhaust, decals from Tom at ECS. bought a few fasteners from Frank, and lots of stuff from Bill Rolik.

sixt9rsx33
12-25-2017, 12:53 AM
Thanks for the pics, those are great. Will make the changes.

sixt9rsx33
12-25-2017, 01:44 AM
Here is my VR after I removed the rattle can paint. Notice the font, I said it looks green in an earlier post, but meant yellow. Car was built early November 68.

RJS
12-25-2017, 04:27 PM
Is the upside down # to the right 1608?? If so then I'm confused Chrysler used 3 digit in 61-9 Example 349 would be 34th. week of 1969.
Also if you need wiring you have to go through Year One or Classic since M+H doesn't sell direct for Mopar.
I used to buy these with electronic guts and then buy an NOS and swap covers.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Voltage-Regulator-Electronic-Solid-State-with-Correct-Restoration-Look-/121703672807

Hope some of this helped
Ron

6t9chgr
12-26-2017, 01:55 AM
Thanks for the link to this thread Ron.

OP...very cool 69 R/T you have there! Mine was originally R6 as well. (Black top, interior also but V88 stripe delete) One day ill go back to the original color

Mine was originally an AC car as well. Curious as to the reason you made the discharge hose 2 pieces instead of the original one piece design? I see you had the hoses replaced...were they not able to keep it one piece?

Heres a few pics of mine...I took the liberty of adding a few factory options to mine over the years (V21 hood treatment & J45 hood pins, electronic ign, charging etc) Ive had her for over 20 years and after a while you get bored of just putting gas into her LOL Swapping wheels etc only goes so far!

I enjoyed the pics of your resto and it looks like a lot of care & attention to detail went into her! Good luck!

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5600/14983339234_ce7564c2ce_b.jpg


https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1645/25886654080_e9be04124d_b.jpg

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5677/30307558640_80f3e5fd45_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7284/28215261505_131c343cc8_b.jpg

sixt9rsx33
12-26-2017, 02:19 AM
Is the upside down # to the right 1608?? If so then I'm confused Chrysler used 3 digit in 61-9 Example 349 would be 34th. week of 1969.
Also if you need wiring you have to go through Year One or Classic since M+H doesn't sell direct for Mopar.
I used to buy these with electronic guts and then buy an NOS and swap covers.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Voltage-Regulator-Electronic-Solid-State-with-Correct-Restoration-Look-/121703672807

Hope some of this helped
Ron

Ron thanks for the help. Lots of good info.
Not positive what the date code is on the VR. Now that I look at the number it may be 209. Would that be the 20th week of 1969? If so then a replacement?
I have bought all new wiring for the car mostly from Year One except for one wiper harness and automatic transmission harness which those came from Evans via Dante's.
Yes, I have seen the electronic VR's and considered switching the tops especially for my 69 Camaro's. Easy and cheap, came with the mid year Vettes.
Thanks and will keep you posted on the list you provided.

sixt9rsx33
12-26-2017, 02:28 AM
Thanks for the link to this thread Ron.

OP...very cool 69 R/T you have there! Mine was originally R6 as well. (Black top, interior also but V88 stripe delete) One day ill go back to the original color

Mine was originally an AC car as well. Curious as to the reason you made the discharge hose 2 pieces instead of the original one piece design? I see you had the hoses replaced...were they not able to keep it one piece?

Heres a few pics of mine...I took the liberty of adding a few factory options to mine over the years (V21 hood treatment & J45 hood pins, electronic ign, charging etc) Ive had her for over 20 years and after a while you get bored of just putting gas into her LOL Swapping wheels etc only goes so far!

I enjoyed the pics of your resto and it looks like a lot of care & attention to detail went into her! Good luck!

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5600/14983339234_ce7564c2ce_b.jpg


https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1645/25886654080_e9be04124d_b.jpg

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5677/30307558640_80f3e5fd45_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7284/28215261505_131c343cc8_b.jpg

Beautiful car 6T9chgr. I understand the liberty's taken. I had a 68 Charger that I took a few liberties with too. Was a great driver. At times wish I had it back in addition to the this car. I have known this car since I was 16 my neighbor owned it. I am the third owner and all original NC car garaged most of it's life.
Not sure I understand your question about the discharge hose. Help me out there. It is late and have had a long day so that very well could be the reason for my question!!:crazy:

6t9chgr
12-26-2017, 09:24 AM
Looking at this pic, you will see near the battery, that the discharge hose off the compressor is one piece (steel-rubber-steel)

In your hose there is a removable joint where you can separate the steel part from the rubber...effectively making it a 2 piece hose....

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4693/39277744842_bfafcaf49e_b.jpg

RJS
12-26-2017, 01:49 PM
6t9chr is a good friend of mine and I couldn't wait to show him your thread. He is a full of Charger knowledge among other things!!!
Yes your right your date code is 209 so must have been replaced early on in life.
I want him to put his car back to R6 but he decided to put 2 kids through college, live in a house and eat instead.
Ron

sixt9rsx33
12-26-2017, 02:27 PM
Looking at this pic, you will see near the battery, that the discharge hose off the compressor is one piece (steel-rubber-steel)

In your hose there is a removable joint where you can separate the steel part from the rubber...effectively making it a 2 piece hose....

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4693/39277744842_bfafcaf49e_b.jpg

Ok gotcha. Simple answer is that is the way it was. When I started the resto, there were changes to the AC lines where they had been "amended" over the course of the cars life. My ac guy made new rubber hoses and also installed better...clamps?? Around the rubber hose? The clamps that were on there were not a good design as he said. They were prone to leak freon. Clamps is the wrong word. The metal piece that is crimped to hold the hose on. My old crimps sucked and this is a better design.
Let me know what else you see that is wrong. I want to put everything back correct. I see where my ac line is painted black and should be silver. The line from the compressor going over towards the passenger side of the engine compartment.

sixt9rsx33
12-26-2017, 02:29 PM
I have been looking long and hard for ac compressor braces. If you know anyone that has the correct ones please let me know. I have a pair but unfortunately they are wrong.

6t9chgr
12-26-2017, 07:47 PM
I have been looking long and hard for ac compressor braces. If you know anyone that has the correct ones please let me know. I have a pair but unfortunately they are wrong.
Yes those are pretty much made of unobtanium. I got my set in a package deal with the hoses etc. When I bought my car 20+ years ago, all the underhood AC stuff was missing. Finding & buying back 440 engine, one year only stuff is quite costly!

As far as the AC hose crimps, yes the serrated style is the more modern crimp that can handle more PSI. The original circular style crimp is no longer available as far as I know....

I dont consider my car "correct" but I tried to make it "stock looking"as possible.

Looking over your pics I do notice that you dont have the "correct" valve cover studs on the front & rear lower positions...you have bolts all around.

Also, hard to see in the pics but do you have the special battery cable clamp that bolts to the back of the compressor bracket? (circled in the pic)

Also for 69 440 with AC the throttle return spring should be green...

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4641/24454736657_dd0e8ca364_z.jpg

sixt9rsx33
12-27-2017, 12:08 AM
Yes those are pretty much made of unobtanium. I got my set in a package deal with the hoses etc. When I bought my car 20+ years ago, all the underhood AC stuff was missing. Finding & buying back 440 engine, one year only stuff is quite costly!

As far as the AC hose crimps, yes the serrated style is the more modern crimp that can handle more PSI. The original circular style crimp is no longer available as far as I know....

I dont consider my car "correct" but I tried to make it "stock looking"as possible.

Looking over your pics I do notice that you dont have the "correct" valve cover studs on the front & rear lower positions...you have bolts all around.

Also, hard to see in the pics but do you have the special battery cable clamp that bolts to the back of the compressor bracket? (circled in the pic)

Also for 69 440 with AC the throttle return spring should be green...

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4641/24454736657_dd0e8ca364_z.jpg
Ahhhh...I am glad you mentioned the clip for the battery cable that mounts to the back of the compressor. I do have it!! But need to install it. I noticed I was missing that but forgot to install. Will get that installed before I forget again.
I had the correct studs in the valve covers before I had the engine rebuilt!! Damn, I guess the engine rebuilder did not put them back. I was so happy to have had those and survived all these years. Thanks for pointing that out. Another fix🤔.

sixt9rsx33
12-27-2017, 12:20 AM
Ok, I need a little help with these ac heater box vacuum lines. Unfortunately, I did not take these off. If I did I would have a ton of pics. I have read the FSM and have got a few clues but really need to understand where the red stripe hose with the “T” goes and where the red hose goes in relation to the top or bottom of the actuator. Or any clues you guys may have.
A12Pilot has been a ton of help with this project....where you been???....RJS 6T9Chrgr you guys have spring on the scene lately with a great round of info. Thanks so much guys super helpful to this novice Mopar guy!!!👍👍😁

6t9chgr
12-27-2017, 09:25 PM
This pic help any?

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=87035.0;attach=164 896;image

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/attachments/dsc04534-jpg.233838/

sixt9rsx33
12-27-2017, 09:47 PM
Yes, very. After I posted the question I started googling and ran across a thread with one of these pictures. The picture with the time delay wires connected is very helpful.
Thanks very much!

6t9chgr
12-27-2017, 11:30 PM
Also, check out http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/ if you havent already....

sixt9rsx33
12-28-2017, 01:37 AM
Yep all over it. That is where I found that one pic that you posted earlier...in a thread there. Great site and good guys...

sixt9rsx33
01-06-2018, 11:51 PM
Here a few update photos

mockingbird812
01-06-2018, 11:58 PM
Looks smashing!!!

sixt9rsx33
01-07-2018, 02:01 AM
Thanks Sam!

Xplantdad
01-07-2018, 02:54 AM
Agreed...looks great!

A12pilot
01-07-2018, 10:55 AM
What can be said that already hasn't been said? Nice work Lawrence!! Very impressive!!! You're doing an awesome job.

Cheers
Dave

6t9chgr
01-08-2018, 11:41 PM
Check your PM over on DC.com

sixt9rsx33
01-13-2018, 11:10 PM
Top should go on in a few weeks. Right now sorting things out. Waiting on fuel line clips and once those come in can start the car. So far nothing major has surfaced but have not started it yet!! . Car turns over so I am hopeful all is ok. I am apprehensive about the heat and air because I restored the heater ac box myself. Lots of linkage, hidden actuators, vacuum lines etc. I also put in a new heater core. If that thing leaks, I may pull my hair out! Can’t wait to get it out!

A12pilot
01-14-2018, 07:09 AM
Love it!!! Nice work, Lawrence! The first Charger I restored was a 68 R/T with A/C and had to yank the box right after it pressurized. Talk about a pain!! Core had a leak (even pressure tested it beforehand) and that’s when I vowed from that day forward....NO A/C CARS!!!:no::biggthumpup: Just kidding:tongue:

Fire that thing up man!!!

Cheers
Dave

sixt9rsx33
01-14-2018, 11:41 AM
Love it!!! Nice work, Lawrence! The first Charger I restored was a 68 R/T with A/C and had to yank the box right after it pressurized. Talk about a pain!! Core had a leak (even pressure tested it beforehand) and that’s when I vowed from that day forward....NO A/C CARS!!!:no::biggthumpup: Just kidding:tongue:

Fire that thing up man!!!

Cheers
Dave

If this thing leaks....I am not kidding you I am going to S**t!!

sixt9rsx33
01-25-2018, 10:12 AM
I have a leaky heater control valve ugh. Coming off to be sent out and restored. I should had done that months ago did not any better. Cars runs good short of a sticky choke. Will sort that today. Here is a front end shot.

sixt9rsx33
01-27-2018, 01:38 PM
Test

mockingbird812
01-27-2018, 02:02 PM
Iconic front end. Looks great!!!!

SupremeDeluxe
01-31-2018, 09:07 PM
What a beautiful car and meticulous restoration!

sixt9rsx33
02-03-2018, 08:27 PM
Here are a few pics of the car outside in the sunlight. This was before we adjusting the torsion bars so a little low in the front. Sorted out now.

The shot with the vinyl top shows the body lead seam under the top. The fluorescent lights exemplify this. I am not so sure if this will bug me enough to rip the top off and send the car back to my paint man to smooth that seam out? I simply missed this when the car was at the body shop. I looked at my old pictures and sure enough the same “bulge” is there. I guess I did not notice as much because the top was 48 years old and the car had plenty of other ugly things going on with it. I have looked at several other restored Mopars and this lead seam under the top shows up but it does bug me. I wanted to restore the car as it was in late 68 so that is what it is.:confused2:

sixt9rsx33
02-03-2018, 08:29 PM
Here are the pics

sixt9rsx33
02-03-2018, 08:30 PM
What a beautiful car and meticulous restoration!

Thanks Supreme Deluxe. I look forward to driving it!!

Ryan1969Chevelle
02-03-2018, 09:48 PM
Here are a few pics of the car outside in the sunlight. This was before we adjusting the torsion bars so a little low in the front. Sorted out now.

The shot with the vinyl top shows the body lead seam under the top. The fluorescent lights exemplify this. I am not so sure if this will bug me enough to rip the top off and send the car back to my paint man to smooth that seam out? I simply missed this when the car was at the body shop. I looked at my old pictures and sure enough the same “bulge” is there. I guess I did not notice as much because the top was 48 years old and the car had plenty of other ugly things going on with it. I have looked at several other restored Mopars and this lead seam under the top shows up but it does bug me. I wanted to restore the car as it was in late 68 so that is what it is.:confused2:

Will it keep you up at night?

There is compromise in every car but so far I haven’t seen any on this build.....

Ryan

A12pilot
02-04-2018, 02:10 AM
Lawrence,

The car looks great! You're doing a fantastic job! One thing to note on vinyl top cars. That seam was not leaded. It was filled with a very hard, yet pliable, caulk. This would trap moisture and swell over time causing the buldge you typically would see. Non -vinyl top cars got the lead there. Is there exception to this? Of course, and I restored a 68 R/T with a black vinyl top that was leaded. But... the few exceptions are not the norm. Nobody uses that caulk anymore, obviously, and it's best filled with USC's Allmetal in the leaded joints.

I'll shoot you an email with some more info.....

Cheers:beers:
Dave

HawkX66
02-04-2018, 05:57 AM
So sharp...

sixt9rsx33
02-04-2018, 09:22 PM
Going to fix the sail panel. Can't deal with the bulge under the top

Ryan1969Chevelle
02-04-2018, 11:15 PM
Going to fix the sail panel. Can't deal with the bulge under the top

Good plan, you wouldn’t be able to sleep.

The rest of the car is too perfect for noticeable bulge.

Ryan

big gear head
02-05-2018, 12:59 AM
I'd have to do the same thing. The car is great, with that one exception. Can you fix it by just pulling back that one section of the top?

markinnaples
02-05-2018, 03:29 PM
Man that thing is sharp, whew. Mopar did have some killer designs back then and a '69 Charger has to be one of the best designs of the musclecar era. Beautiful job.

BCreekDave
02-05-2018, 05:04 PM
You stated in post 28 that you were going to try and not remove the headliner. Were you able to do this and if so, how did you protect it thought the process? I have a 70Z28 with a perfect original headliner that I would like to save if possible. I do need to put new quarters on it, but I think I can pull the headliner back far enough to protect them from the heat.

sixt9rsx33
02-05-2018, 09:45 PM
You stated in post 28 that you were going to try and not remove the headliner. Were you able to do this and if so, how did you protect it thought the process? I have a 70Z28 with a perfect original headliner that I would like to save if possible. I do need to put new quarters on it, but I think I can pull the headliner back far enough to protect them from the heat.

The headliner did not fare as well as I wanted it to through the soda blasting experience. It is still in good shape and needs to be cleaned, but I have a replacement. The carpet and seat covers are new so it kind of stands out. I am lucky the door panels are in very nice shape. A testament to a garaged car.

If you decide to keep the headliner. Cover it with blue painters tape, and if you have to shuttle the car with the glass out make sure you don't have any loose headliner ends. Ask me how I know...lessons learned...

sixt9rsx33
02-05-2018, 09:46 PM
Guys,

Thanks for all the compliments. I appreciate it. Can't wait to drive it.

sixt9rsx33
02-19-2018, 11:17 AM
Project is back on track now. Removed all the factory caulking...stuff was very malleable. I was really silurprised how putty like it was. Put in the USC all metal product and skimmed that with filler. Top man will be there today to install top and headliner. Unfortunately I have to leave town on Business this week. Hopefully it will be done when I get back. More importantly done right😳

sixt9rsx33
02-19-2018, 11:22 AM
After getting the dust off of her and cleaning the interior even though I was fistidious with the plastic covering some dust made it was inside. Back ready for the top to be installed

sixt9rsx33
03-01-2018, 01:06 AM
Sail panels have been repaired and top installed. Car should be close to bring complete Saturday.

Ryan1969Chevelle
03-01-2018, 01:13 AM
Looks like the same car in hemmings Muscle Machines.... an article how to install a black VT on a red Charger :-)

Ryan

big gear head
03-01-2018, 02:01 AM
Much better

sixt9rsx33
03-01-2018, 10:18 AM
Dealer emblem. Before and after

mockingbird812
03-01-2018, 04:08 PM
Digging it!

A12pilot
03-03-2018, 12:32 AM
Mo' Bettah!!:biggthumpup::biggthumpup::biggthumpup:

Cheers
Dave

sixt9rsx33
03-04-2018, 12:43 AM
Clean up and detail begins

Crush
03-04-2018, 01:30 AM
That car is killer!!

A12pilot
03-05-2018, 11:32 PM
Beeeeeeeeee-yoooouuuuu-teeful!!! I miss my Chargers. A great looking car! Nice work Lawrence!

Cheers
Dave

Xplantdad
03-06-2018, 12:31 AM
Agreed...looks great!:headbang:

markinnaples
03-06-2018, 02:11 PM
Your Charger is just smoking beautiful. Mopar design did some amazing stuff with that really blocky square shape that just has stood the test of time extraordinarily well.

sixt9rsx33
03-07-2018, 12:13 AM
Thanks fellas. I have been driving the car and so far so good notwithstanding a few punch list items. I still have all the factory decals that need to go on the car.
I ordered the 68 full chrome road wheels but they are back ordered. I need to check on the delivery of those wheels. I believe they will set the car off when installed.

RJS
03-09-2018, 10:27 PM
Thanks fellas. I have been driving the car and so far so good notwithstanding a few punch list items. I still have all the factory decals that need to go on the car.
I ordered the 68 full chrome road wheels but they are back ordered. I need to check on the delivery of those wheels. I believe they will set the car off when installed.

Thank God!!!! I was afraid to ask if you were leaving those wheels on the car. The factory wheel will bring this car alive!!!!! I'm hoping you may go red-walls too!!!
Ron

Canuck
03-09-2018, 11:10 PM
I had 15x7 Magnum 500 on my 68 for a while with 245-60-15 red lines done by Diamond back Classics.
They looked Awsome.

sixt9rsx33
03-10-2018, 05:37 PM
thank god!!!! I was afraid to ask if you were leaving those wheels on the car. The factory wheel will bring this car alive!!!!! I'm hoping you may go red-walls too!!!
Ron

lol!!!