What Does A Very Nice Paint Job Cost Today??

[whitetop]

Looking to have my Mustang painted. New factory quarters, gaps are above average to begin with , few minor rust holes have been patched properly. Car is stripped down to rolling chassis and media blasted.

Basically down to finish alignment, putty work, blocking and painting. Looking for really nice show paint with super straight bodywork with great detail in door jambs etc

Looking to have it painted a modern color such as OEM Chrysler Instense Blue Pearl. No Candy type or Custom stuff.

Not looking for Detroit Cobe Hall Great 8 Sema build winners paint quality but not dealership production either.


I know materials are going to be $4000-4500 right off the bat.

Thanks

[markinnaples]

Great color, but "No Candy type or Custom stuff" :(

[L78steve]

15k

[tom406]

I concur with the $15k above for something you'd want to "show", don't be surprised if a 2 gets in front of that before you're done, especially if there's a lot of block sanding to be done.

[whitetop]

Great color, but "No Candy type or Custom stuff" :(

I was quoted $25-35K+ for custom 1970's style paint by various shops that would do it right flake and candies. And I believe they wanted the car to be all done and ready for paint basically blocked and all.


As Donald Rumsfield said along time ago sometime you have to go with the Army you have so a nice OEM metalflake blue color it will be lol

[L78steve]

The sanding and blocking is 99% of your outcome. A pro sander body man is what to look for.

[markinnaples]

Trust me David, I understand that more than you know. And, there is always the possibility that you could add some custom work in the future once you have a nice base down.

[whitetop]

Trust me David, I understand that more than you know. And, there is always the possibility that you could add some custom work in the future once you have a nice base down.

That is what I am planning. A friend who is top notch wants to do it but he has no place to do it. I have posted his work on my FB page. Dave Clark.

[NorCam]

Then get your friend to paint it. You can always phone around and within most towns you can find a booth to rent on an evening or weekend. Call around and ask. It'll save you plenty if your friend is a good painter.

[RST]

We at Mascar will not touch a car for less that 30K / any car even an original paint car. It takes 30k in California.

[njsteve]

I think the last time I got a quality paint job on car for $15K was when Reagan was President. It was this one - and it still has the same paint job on it 30 years later. ;-)

[luzl78]

I think the last time I got a quality paint job on car for $15K was when Reagan was President. It was this one - and it still has the same paint job on it 30 years later. ;-)steve, what is the hemi cuda worth today?

[njsteve]

A nice retirement! :-(

[whitetop]

Then get your friend to paint it. You can always phone around and within most towns you can find a booth to rent on an evening or weekend. Call around and ask. It'll save you plenty if your friend is a good painter.


He can't paint an entire car. He does not do bodywork/blocksanding He is a graphics guy..one of the best there is.

[markinnaples]

I'll check out his work David. Not sure many know how cool your Mustang was back in the day. You should post up a picture, I'm sure everyone will love the way it looked as much as I do.

[Jack_Tar]

Without seeing it in person, there is no real way to give a ballpark price. Back when I had my shop our rate was $55 per hour. A ball park would get you close, but the details and ok change this, custom that and the time invested could go through the roof along with the price. The customers would say, "But you said it would only be about $XXXXX, Now its twice that". All those small add-ons build up quick.

[iluv69s]

Most shops around here will not touch a car with someone else's body work. They will want to strip the car to bare metal and start from there. And they give you a basic price for a paint job and only give a bodywork price after the car has been stripped. I'd say 20-25k around here for a show paint job with car apart.

[jasonL78]

The main problem a lot of people don't realize is the cost of materials like sand paper, tape grinding wheels, primers, fillers, and paint are through the roof. I almost fell over when I had to pay 90.00 to fill my bottle for the welder. Needless to say I found another spot to have it filled after that time. I have been averaging for materials around 2000-2500. Every car is different. Now add in parts and labor and things start to add up very quickly. It really depends on the car and what needs to be done but in todays world I agree a paint job is in the 12-20k range.


With he cost of materials why would you want to pay all that money and have a chance the original paint might react with new paint. I recommend getting all the old paint off, resolve the rust issues then epoxy prime, prime then paint. It's the only way to protect you investment.

[RST]

The main problem a lot of people don't realize is the cost of materials like sand paper, tape grinding wheels, primers, fillers, and paint are through the roof. I almost fell over when I had to pay 90.00 to fill my bottle for the welder. Needless to say I found another spot to have it filled after that time. I have been averaging for materials around 2000-2500. Every car is different. Now add in parts and labor and things start to add up very quickly. It really depends on the car and what needs to be done but in todays world I agree a paint job is in the 12-20k range.


With he cost of materials why would you want to pay all that money and have a chance the original paint might react with new paint. I recommend getting all the old paint off, resolve the rust issues then epoxy prime, prime then paint. It's the only way to protect you investment.

Totally agree!

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

PPG's prices are nutz! :eek: But, I keep paying it.... :rolleyes:

[earntaz]

In the past, I've used DuPont -- had all kinds of their product and then they decided to go with Axalta and raise the $$. They claim old DuPont stuff is not compatible -- so no more DuPont/Axalta. Lately have used PPG (+++$$ as Marlin said) but seems to work just fine ... TAZ

[L78steve]

Its the EPA that is killing us. Paint product prices have gone through the roof and the components that gave the finish longevity are banned.
House paints included.

[CamarosRus]

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/

SPI manufactures quality primers and clears
Shipped directly from Mfg to YOU (no dealer/store mark up)
YOU should read their Website, Read Their Forum.
Great Customer service...Speak directly with the owner.

Two Gallons of Epoxy Primer (A & B) shipped to my home
was $212......Every bit as good as PPG , Axalta at $400+++

[302moz]

We use SPI primers and clear. Way better then ppg dp90lf

[cheveslakr]

Yes, for SPI. I've been using their epoxy and clear since 2000 or so. I use the UPOL high build which is a third the price of K38. It makes paying $600 up or down for base far more tolerable.

[mr 707]

PPG --> base coat clear coat is state of the art

[EZ Nova]

Ok I've been following this as I might be in the market with a car or 2? I think I'm looking at about the same quality as what "WHITETOP" is for a nice driver. And being up in Canada, I was figuring the cost would be more, but not looking that way????

There is a small shop I spoke with that just finished "restoring" a mid 70's BIG CAR Pontiac convertible. This was with welding on the floors and rear quarters, working the truck, doors and fenders. Price was $14K. said he had about a grand in "paint stuff" and rest was mostly labour and consumables.

But what it strange is when guys come on here and say the COST of stuff is? Like tape, paper welding equipment??? Isn't "most" of this included in you high shop rates???? Now don't get me started on the shop rate as I HAVE my own machine shop so I know quite well the costs of consumables. So when I quote on doing a $30,000 injection mold and thinking the 2/3 months it takes me, and guys are doing that doing paint and body???? Yet I HAVE to used 100 of thousands of dollars worth of equipment and programing ABOVE the cost of consumables??? Thinks like Die-Sink EDM's, 3/4 axis CNC mills, precisions grinders and MASTERCAM CadCam that's about 20K up here alone????

Now before anyone gets uptight, YES I know you have Paint booths and equipment. But do you honestly think that you have anywhere near the investment that a full machine shop with CNC capabilities has???? I was just at one of the shops I did work for, they have bought a few more CNC lathes in the last 2 years. The last one was 1.3 Million???

And YES most machine shops will get more PER HOUR, but to what extent?? I was in the $90.00/hr range, made good money and had as much free time as I liked.

I know the governments are screwing these trades up to some extent with regulations, but come on, "MOST" classic cars are not worth more than $50K. For for someone who just wants and nice driver, like this Mustang painted, and to get prices in the high teens to $25K, that not only crazy, but also killing a big part of this hobby?

FYI I DID bodywork in highschool co-op and for 2 years after. I'm no pro and been out for 30 years. But I know any respectable body guy can get a fairly decent car to paint stage in about 2 weeks or LESS. No major work, just stripped to bare metal, fix door dings and gaps, epoxy primer, filler prime and into the both in 80 hours or less, IF they work on it. Another 3 days to buff after paint. I just don't see the $$$$ for most people`s cars. These are not Ac Cobra`s, Yenko`s. Hemi`s or other special or 1-off cars. These are your run of the mill, 350 Nova or 289 Mustang or even Impala`s.

[markinnaples]

EZ Nova, Interesting post. I watched my dad do bodywork out of our house for 30 years (he did it for 20 years before I came along so 50+ in total), and before he got "old" he was amazing. Absolutely no waves and paint that was spot-on matching with no computer matching, just by eye and factory formulas mixed down the street at NAPA.

I know there is a huge time and effort element to bodywork and painting, but we've seem to have gone past the point of reasonableness and into ridiculousness in some cases. I respect all trades, but the hourly rates a lot of them are charging now are crazy. If you take the hourly rate and double it, generally that's their yearly wage in thousands, so if a guy is charging $125/hour in his shop, his gross is $250k, which is unbelievable money. I get that there are consumable costs as have been mentioned, but isn't that generally part of what the materials charge is?

[whitetop]

FYI I DID bodywork in highschool co-op and for 2 years after. I'm no pro and been out for 30 years. But I know any respectable body guy can get a fairly decent car to paint stage in about 2 weeks or LESS. No major work, just stripped to bare metal, fix door dings and gaps, epoxy primer, filler prime and into the both in 80 hours or less, IF they work on it. Another 3 days to buff after paint.


I don't agree with the 80 hours. Maybe for something that is a notch above Earl Sheib or Maaco or laow level dealership paint job. A friend paints his own vehicles on the side-has been doing this for 40 years.

He bought a southwest USA truck that was straight and rust free. It took him most of the summer working nights to strip and block it out-making sure door jambs were nice etc. I will ask him how many hours but I know it was way above 80 hours.

[NorCam]

Body and paint is very subjective, and each person has a different perspective on what is considered driver grade body & paint, and what is considered show quality. The biggest problem is that 60%-70% of owners will walk in saying they want driver grade work and a reasonable price (say 10K to 15K budget) and that later escalates as they come in to check progress and start adding this or asking for that. Of course the bodywork can escalate quickly where an initial quote may call for 15K as a repaint with lets say 80 hours to bodywork and prep, but then some previous repairs or rust issues are found and the owner wants it fixed properly which can add another 40+ hours to a project before the blink of an eye. That involves costs of another $3000 give or take and then the owner shows up asking for House of Kolor paint with a metallic silver finish and a 3 stage cut and polish. Yup...just added another grand or two in materials and another 60-80 hours to prep the body to properly block it out before the paint is laid on. Add to that another 20-30 hours for a high end cut and polish and that 15K job just rose to 25K-28K

My last HOK painted car had nearly 400 hours in the body & paint work and was virtually rust free to begin with. A few small rust issues and older repairs were found once we dove in. Those required about 40 hours of proper repairs before moving on. I then decided I wanted the firewall smoothed (add 20 hours), and the engine bay finished in gloss black (another 20 hours) and the list went on. The total project included 4 stage paint and final finishing with a 3 level cut and a full 3 stage polish. Over 2000 sheets of sand paper were used on the wet sand finish and those kinds of materials do add to the final costs. FWIW sanding alone required tens of thousands of cross hatch sanding strokes to be made before the paint and clear were ready for final polishing. What i'm saying here is that it takes a lot of time for proper show quality paint. I was given a break on the price as I have done a few cars in this small private shop but it still cost north of 25K for that one. The final finish was an award winning paint job, but I didn't go into this project with anything more than a good driver quality job in mind. In comparison, any of the upper end shops in this area that can deliver this quality wouldn't have touched that car for less than 50K at this level of finish. (The above rates are Canadian are not typical in most high end shops. In some cases you can expect to pay double for this kind of paint. In USD it may be less per hour but the outcome will likely be similar as hours do costs money)

A few pictures of that paint job for those who want to see the car I am referring to.

http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd418/DBL_NKL/Double%20Nickel%20184.jpg
House of Kolor Orion Silver (Custom tinted with 5% black and metallic fillers added)

http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd418/DBL_NKL/Double%20Nickel%20168.jpg
As with any black car, the body prep must be perfect and takes hundreds of hours.

http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd418/DBL_NKL/Double%20Nickel%20254.jpg
A shot of the black taken at Goodguys Colorado to show the depth in this paint job.

[NorCam]

In comparison, here's another car I recently had finished by the same small private Alberta shop. It was a completely rust free car but required sheet metal work to install new floors and wheel houses as the car was a former Super Stock drag car. Once the metal work was complete (around 160 hours), the body was prepped for a really good driver quality paint with 2 stage Dupont paint and a 3 stage cut and polish (about 140 hours with gaps corrected, panels aligned and paint completed). This one had around 350 hours of combined shop time in the bodywork and the paint and was in the 22K range completed (Cdn). Again you can expect higher rates in some of the well established shop that cater to this market.

http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd418/DBL_NKL/My%20Cars/69%20Z28/IMG_5788.jpg
Sheet metal work nearing completion

http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd418/DBL_NKL/My%20Cars/69%20Z28/IMG_6504.jpg
Jambs painted up

http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd418/DBL_NKL/My%20Cars/69%20Z28/IMG_6888.jpg
Blocking the panels out

http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd418/DBL_NKL/My%20Cars/69%20Z28/IMG_7140.jpg
Painting with stripes

[NorCam]

http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd418/DBL_NKL/My%20Cars/69%20Z28/IMG_7205.jpg
Finished with full cut and polish

http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd418/DBL_NKL/My%20Cars/69%20Z28/IMG_7367.jpg
At home while the paint is curing

http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd418/DBL_NKL/My%20Cars/IMG_1666.jpg
Great depth on a mid level grade paint product

http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd418/DBL_NKL/My%20Cars/IMG_1665.jpg
Not the same level as my prvious black car, but a nice paint job overall

[NorCam]

One more note with regards to the machinist's post. A machine shop charges for the setup and programming on CNC work and the run time recovers those costs over time. A professional body man charges for their man hours which is completely labor intensive, and a painter charges out for the prep time and finishing (also very labor intensive).

You then have the newer skilled body techs in most shops who are primarily trained in current panel style replacement using adhesives with very little metal work skills compared to old school body men. Try and get one of those repair shops to touch a classic car??? The old school skills are now charging out as a premium because most who choose to do restoration work are an older cut of the cloth and have often become masters in their craft. That dictates a higher shop premium in most cases and if the same guy is capable of high quality prep and paint work, you can expect to pay for that level of service. I know painters around here that won't touch a completely prepped car for less than 20K and that means the car has to arrive 100% ready to paint.

My point here is you simply cannot compare a master craftsman to a Macco style painter or an economy paint job. If all you want is a simple cover up splash job, there are few options for you these days and that's due to fewer shops wanting to touch cars with any potential for rust. For those who still perform restoration work, that's what pays there bills and keeps their shops staffed and operating, but it comes as a premium.

[whitetop]

What you consider "driver paint job" is way different than mine..chuckling.. if my car turns out like your green Camaro I will be dancing a jig for 2 month.


http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd418/DBL_NKL/My%20Cars/69%20Z28/IMG_7205.jpg
Finished with full cut and polish

http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd418/DBL_NKL/My%20Cars/69%20Z28/IMG_7367.jpg
At home while the paint is curing

http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd418/DBL_NKL/My%20Cars/IMG_1666.jpg
Great depth on a mid level grade paint product

http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd418/DBL_NKL/My%20Cars/IMG_1665.jpg
Not the same level as my prvious black car, but a nice paint job overall

[frankk]

Was at a car show last weekend in a small community that's about 50 miles from town. One fellow that attended brought his 72 Javelin. He was telling me the car just came home from a small high end paint/ restoration shop where it had spent most of the winter. I personally know the shop well. The car is white with a half vinyl top and a black stripe down the side similar to what the 70 Buick GSX's had. Apparantly the only metal work done was a small amount in the trunk area. His bill was 800 hrs. at $75.00 per hr. I didn't say anything but wondered why he would drive it 50 miles on open hiway to get it to the car show, especially this time of year when the roads are not really cleaned of the winter sand and rocks. I would be protecting that car like a mother does her young.

[NorCam]

What you consider "driver paint job" is way different than mine..chuckling.. if my car turns out like your green Camaro I will be dancing a jig for 2 month.

With the guy that I use, that paint job would be in around the 12K range c/w cut and polish if someone brought it in with the body fully prepped. About 15K +/- with stripping trim and repainting a good solid body.

Last time I talked to him he had about 12 cars in the que.

[markinnaples]

...His bill was 800 hrs. at $75.00 per hr. I didn't say anything but wondered why he would drive it 50 miles on open hiway to get it to the car show, especially this time of year when the roads are not really cleaned of the winter sand and rocks. I would be protecting that car like a mother does her young.

You aren't kidding, $60K is nuts, and I agree, it would be tough to take that thing out of the garage.

[Sean]

Many things to consider. What type of paint, reputation, what is your time frame. The quality of the bodywork is what is going to be the most money, blocking, sanding, over and over, fitment of panels, primer and sealing etc. Car ready to go $4500-7500.00 Car needed sanding, body work, $7500-12,500.00 Full blown out job $12,500.00 to 25k Also do not get caught with the 50% down idea pay only in stages. Old saying with painters its always beer thirty lol.

[BARRY]

i painted cars for 30 years my boss you to say the heaviest thing i picked up all week is my cock... all kidding a side taking a car all apart and sand blasting every part and painting takes a lot of time and the price of paint and sand paper is just gone crazy

[TMagda]

That "driver quality" rally green looks perfect to me!

[NorCam]

That "driver quality" rally green looks perfect to me!

He did a real nice job and floats metallic colors very well. I call it a driver paint job because the car is intended to be driven and the paint is a common mid grade commercial Dupont product, but he did lay it on and polish it out nicely.

Should last many years like this.

[Tommy]

i should have taken Hot Rod Magazines "how to paint your car" articles more seriously. Growing up, it seemed like Hot Rod threw that one in every few months in between choosing the right cam, intake swaps and how to bend tubing....


Tommy

[njsteve]

i should have taken Hot Rod Magazines "how to paint your car" articles more seriously. Growing up, it seemed like Hot Rod threw that one in every few months in between choosing the right cam, intake swaps and how to bend tubing....


Tommy

...and how to make your Chevy Van into a shag-carpeted "Love Machine" that all the chicks will dig! ;-)

[EZ Nova]

Thanks guys! Was honestly a bit hesitant about logging back on as I figured it would be a lot harsher replies to my post. WASN'T meant to piss anyone or criticize their work or efforts, just prices on anything these days are thru the roof.

Now if let say my driver was a 100% effort paint job, that green '69 Camaro is about a 150% effort job.

I'm not sure, as it's been about 20 years since I stripped a car, but do they still HAVE or use paint stripping chemicals? You know, the brush on and then use a scraper and remove that toxic combination of paint stripper, paint and primer? I did my WHOLE '67 Chevy II 2 dr POST on a Saturday. Yes it was mostly apart, but still taped up glass. Now I didn't do in the jams or trunk. I did the engine compartment.

The reason I'm contributing to this is I'm looking at my friends old 1978 Camaro Z28. I've know all 3 owners, and my friend was the second. The car has been stiped and painted TWICE when he owned it. Body is perfect or very close. Never winter driven and I looked it over a couple weeks ago, Panels are still nicely lined up and no rust or dents that I could find and I looked it over pretty well. Might be a few small door dings, but didn't look like it. PAINT IS SHOT. Cracked and just bad. So it must be stripped. THIS is going to be a car I can drive anywhere as like a second daily driver. But it's older and will be a nice DRIVER car.

Now my guy said last car he did he had about a grand in "paint stuff" to do the job. I was hoping to get the car done for around $5,000.00 and I would supply the stripe kit. I figure it should take him, a pretty good and respected body and paint guy in my area, probably around 50 hours with a bit of my help? His rate is not stupid, 65/hr and that's includes "consumables" like paper, tape, spot putty, primer and rags. He's always busy and has more work than he wants. He wants to work a deal with me on some other stuff so we can get this in.

I'm I off on this in hours are what he said things cost? It will lay down nice as his paints do, And would have some time to polish the finish product.

IT'S ACTUALLY UP TO MY WIFE. IF she doesn't like my '61 Pontiac then I will buy this Z28.

[watk69]

For this reason alone I buy my cars "done". Every car, whether we want to admit it or not, gets sold someday, and it's value is what someone will pay for it. To spend 30k on a car worth 50k when done is nuts. If its the love of your life, go to night school and learn how to do it yourself and rent booth time. Only way it makes sense really

[ssl78]

Thats what I am doing taking a body and fender class to paint my Nova. Its amazing I am not buying the top of the line materials and still cost me about eighteen hundred in materials

[Xplantdad]

Looks good John!

[ssl78]

Thanks Bruce, I bet between bringing it to bare metal, doing body work some small dents no rust, epoxy primimng, high build primer, block sanding, painting and buffing. I probably have 15 hours in that fender and its not perfect.

[EZ Nova]

Thanks Bruce, I bet between bringing it to bare metal, doing body work some small dents no rust, epoxy primimng, high build primer, block sanding, painting and buffing. I probably have 15 hours in that fender and its not perfect.

True, but you're also not a pro who "could" get that job out in quicker fashion. AND it's black. Why not start and learn on the HARDEST color first?? LOL Not a bad thing as you'll see the issues more easily and therefore you will "learn" more as well.

Like I said, I'm a dual-ticketed tradesman, Millwright and Mold-Maker (like tool and die). BUT I went into my family business of Kitchen cabinetry as it was my dad's and my brother did it till his passing in 2012. Now the reason I bring this up as SURE I can measure and cut and install these kitchen/bath cabinetry myself, but I'm NO WHERE near as proficient as my installers who do it daily for years on end.