Delfleet Essential Black Polyurethane

[CamarosRus]

Is anybody familiar with using/mixing Delfleet factory pack flat black
& Delfleet factory pak gloss black to achieve a semi gloss for fender well
wheel house underhood, differential etc etc.............

I have the PPG suggested formulas, but wanting 1st hand user experience ???

[CamarosRus]

Bump.................

[firstgenaddict]

FWIW here are some samples of Black Lacquer I did in order to determine what happens upon polishing...

Catalyzed urethanes typically require quite a bit flattener to overcome the hardeners.
For Rockers and tail pans I use 4 oz black - 2 oz clear - 2 oz catalyst- 2 oz flattener.

[70-SS/RS-L78]

Chuck I think your best bet is to buy the gloss black and use the flatting agent to get the correct matt finish, I will need to do the same thing cause I am on my last Gallon of Sikkens Black Polyurethane. They stopped making it years ago so I purchased 9 gallons of it, that was all that was in the pipeline and all I could get my hands on. Apparently every one else had the same idea. After a bunch of single stage black paint jobs and under hood parts I will be forced to use another brand of SS Black which I know will be not be nearly as good as the Sikkens 242 black so I am shit out of luck. I was thinking about giving the SPI Black SS a try.:dunno:
Mark

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[CamarosRus]

Mark, Glad that you posted on this subject..............

I have read two different issues of Hemmings Muscle Cars where Nile Wing and
Scott Tieman both used PPG Delfleet Essential Black on project frames, and misc sheetmetal. I had my painter use the Gloss and DX10 flattener to achieve the semi gloss
formula. Tieman suggested using reducer but PPG doesnt mention it in their tech bulletin.

I also bought SPI Epoxy Black primer One Gal Primer & One Gallon Activator shipped to my door for $212.............under half the price of PPG DPLF !!!!!
My painter and mega users on the SPI Forum rave about the product......

[70-SS/RS-L78]

I also use the SPI Epoxy, Great stuff. The type and amount of reducer will effect the gloss level so when you get the desired finish keep track of the amount of matt and reducer that was used. I also learned the hard way that baking the parts will also effect the gloss. I used to add a small amount of white and yellow to the black on some of the underhood parts to duplicate the black that the factory used. That formula is now worthless. I'm gonna have to start all over when I decide which black SS I am going to start using. I'm leaning towards the SPI. Barry has a great product and he stands behind it.
Mark

[L16pilot]

Mark and Chuck,

On the subject of the SPI epoxy, I spoke to Barry and have been working with his Epoxy for a couple of years on my 70Z project. Per Barry's advice and based on my own working experience, I get more consistent results in the gloss / flat appearance using the epoxy versus urethanes, whether they be clears or solids. For the black, I used anywhere between 3% and 8% by weight flattener before adding the hardener.

On a side note, to duplicate the 70 Norwood red oxide, I like 8% black and 5% flattener by weight added to SPI's red oxide epoxy (pre-hardener). I understand the red oxide appearance could change based on several factors, but based on original no-UV exposure panels I have, the above matches very well.

[CamarosRus]

Steve, I dont comprehend your 8%, 5% etc.......

What brand/part number Flattner are you using ...I'm familiar with PPG DX-10.....

Are you using flattner because the SPI Red Oxide is too glossy as might be the
situation with the black.........

Below pic is SPI Epoxy on my 73 project which is NOT a restoration

[CamarosRus]

Could not get under floor pic to post.....................ugh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!

[L16pilot]

Chuck,

To the SPI red oxide, I adds 8% black, (weight of the red oxide x .08), then add 5% flattener (Red+Black weight x .05). All materials are SPI including their flattening agent #940-4....and yes, Barry approved using the flattening agent in the epoxy. Here's some pics of the red oxide results on my 70Z project:

http://www.yenko.net/foruhttp://www.yenko.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=99835&stc=1&d=1504883799m/attachment.php?attachmentid=99834&stc=1&d=1504883799http://www.yenko.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=99836&stc=1&d=1504883799

[CamarosRus]

Steve, This is the most informative post on this specific topic that I have ever read.
I am saving your pics.

Have you shared this same info/posting at Nastyz28 where it should be ???

How much activator (1:1) ratio do you add to above formula.....Same as TOTAL weight of Red, Black and 940-4 Flattner ???

What seam sealers Black and White did you use on this project and were you pleased with them ????

[L16pilot]

Hi Chuck,

I use SPI's recommended 1:1 ratio for mixing the activator to the total of black/red/flattener, but I do not measure it by weight. The activator and epoxy base have different weights per volume, so I mix the activator by volume in a graduated mixing cup. Also, epoxy is pretty tolerant to slight variations from the ideal 1:1 without any negative effects.

For seam sealer, I used Eastwood's tan and black. I like it, it's pretty easy to work with but it takes quite a bit of practice, (at least for me), to replicate the factory texture. I watched a lot of YouTube videos, used a combination of several different stiff-bristle brushes and made a tool to get the effects I wanted. As hard as I try, it's difficult to be as sloppy as the factory.

[firstgenaddict]

Here is a PMS color match... get an old PMS book from a local printer and mix to the colors...

[70-SS/RS-L78]

Steve that Red Oxide really looks great!! I sent a piece of floor to my jobber a while back and he mixed me a single stage red oxide that was a perfect match. Replicating factory seam sealer is an art. I have learned to walk away from it when I think I got it right. If I try to fix something that I think looks wrong it gets ugly real fast. BTW, Your car is really looking good. People don't realize how much work it takes to get that far into a project.
Chuck that 73 looks pretty solid. It looks like it was a vinyl top car and they are notorious for rust. I had to put a roof skin on KY Gold due to the rust under the top.
Mark

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[L16pilot]

Thanks for the compliments Mark. I bought the car in 2004 where it had been a dedicated race car since 1973...not much left when I got it, but the shell sheet metal was really solid...but the front end/decklid were fiberglass and the doors had been cored-out. the LT1 was long gone as was the original Muncie, but the original COO rear is still there.

http://www.yenko.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=100099&stc=1&d=1505234984

Soooo....how are you progressing on your L-78?

[70-SS/RS-L78]

Steve it looks like you are at the Happy Place or over the hump on your car, When all of the metal work is done and it is in epoxy. I finally managed to find the time to put the roof skin on Gold a few weeks ago. It was a 2 day mission where I could not be interrupted and finding 2 days of free time is tough. Now that that is finally done I can get the car on the rotisserie and remove the really thick undercoating and get the floors cleaned up. They look new under all of that crap so once they are clean I should not have much to do to get them painted.
Mark

.

[L16pilot]

Still have a lot to do before it goes to the painter...but getting closer every day. My oldest just started college this year, so I lost some help/muscle :( My youngest just broke his foot 1 week ago, so that leaves my wife. Good thing she's tough and a good sport :). Keep plugging away and can't wait to see your L78 when complete.

[CamarosRus]

Wanting to show people who turn up their nose at SPI (Southern Polyurethane Inc)
Epoxy primer what was applied to bottom of my current 2nd gen Camaro project....

Firewall Pic show semi gloss PPG Delfleet Essential Polyurethane Single Stage
mixed to semi gloss....

[x77-69z28]

Chuck, that looks great! I am hoping to be at that point soon.
Buddy

[70-SS/RS-L78]

Chuck that looks great, It looks like you thinned the SPI Epoxy and sprayed it on nice and smooth. Is that the final undercarriage color for a LA built car, or will it be coated the Norwood red oxide?
Mark

.

[CamarosRus]

The SPI Epoxy Black (above) is on my Norwood 73 R/S project. This car is not a 100% resto and I didnt want the OE Red Oxide. I'm just wanting to show others that the SPI Black Epoxy has a much glossier finish than other brands of Epoxy Black.
Honestly I did not do the application myself...Painter said he mixed it 1:1 with about 10% PPG DT895 to slow down dry time and allow it to gloss up a little, and lay down smoother with less orange peel.................

After reading and seeing pics (Hemmings Muscle CArs) about Nyle Wing and Scott Tieman using the PPG Delfleet Essential Polyurethane Single Stage.....I wanted this on the Firewall and other areas.... I always have liked how Mike Slaughter uses Single Stage GLASURIT on his underhood area Blacks and gets them so smooth (no Orange Peel) ........as you
dont/cant sand , polish those areas/parts !!!!!!!!!!!

I also had UPOL Raptor applied in rear wheel house and under the trunk extension area.......and on very bottom of rocker panel
that would be closest to the ground.........area below the 1970 style Rocker Panel Trim which I plan to use on this Camaro

[CamarosRus]

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