Decked DZ 302

[markinnaples]

So, I am pulling out the DZ 302 from my Camaro to replace it with a 383 or 406. I have a couple people interested in buying it, but I'm not sure what they're worth. Unfortunately, the block was decked BITD when they were racing it the stamping is gone, and I've tried to pull the numbers up with acid but they must have cut too much material off.
Now, I've read that some guys are buying them even if they've been decked and stamping them with their own numbers to fake a matching numbers Z, which, obviously, I'm not a fan of but once I sell it I will have no more control of it.

Anyone know a decked DZ short block will bring these days with one bad oil ring? How about if I sell the short block with the camel hump heads as well? Just not sure what's a fair price in today's market.

[big gear head]

Is this the original block from your car? If it is then it should have the partial VIN stamped above the oil filter. That would verify it as a DZ block. If it's original to your car why would you sell it?

[x33rs]

Exactly what I was thinking.

If the vin is at the oil filter and is legible, untampered with, and matches the vin of a 69 Z/28, and is a known real Z/28, then there really isn't much question it's a DZ engine, regardless of the block being decked. If you don't have the car and were simply told it was a DZ engine, I'd start researching the vin. It might exist.

[markinnaples]

Block is not from my car (mine's a '68 327/4 spd originally).

I will try that route to see if anyone is missing their old 302, and that might be a win/win if I could find it.

[travlnz28]

If it has the original crank, balancer, and heads that is where the value would be. Otherwise it's not worth any more than any other 613, 386 or 010 4 bolt main block unless the vin # of a Z/28 exists.

Good luck with the vin search. That might be a big win!

[markinnaples]

I don't know if it has any of those items to be honest.

[BARRY]

HI the balancer is different than a 350 and the crank at the rear flange has a v cut in it

[ban617]

Hi , what’s the casting date on the heads & block ?

[NorCam]

If you're pulling the engine from your car, then you'd need to at least pull the valve covers to get the date codes from the heads, and would likely pull the oil pan to check the crank rods and pistons. The crank can be determined from the rear outside flange, but once opened up the pink rods are obvious and factory pistons would also have part numbers inside the casting if they are still in there. Having seen and verified those parts, you would then know what you have and how original it is, or perhaps isn't?

Post some pics here of the rear crank flange, T/C and the front balancer. People can quickly tell you if they are correct parts. If you drop the pan, take more pics as more can be verified then too.

[markinnaples]

Thanks NorCam, appreciate the good info. I'm going to pull the engine in a couple weeks when I get back from vacation we're taking for my wife's 40th b-day.
Ban617, the block is the 3970010 casting, but the heads are 461 I think so they're not the originals.

[RALLY]

Sounds like you have a hodge podge of parts put on that engine. Yes if it was decked and have no numbers stamped by the oil filter, its not worth anymore than the other blocks that the 302 engines used. I have a std bore 3970010 block that was used for the Z-302, but not a stamped DZ. A original correct stamped DZ block std bore are worth some decent money. If you pull the pan, check for the crankshaft cast number and get the numbers off the 4 bolt caps too. Like one poster said see if you have the original pink rods too and factory windage tray and correct pan for that application. Factory crank was forged with a wide parting line. Its a shame the DZ stamped numbers are gone due to decking the block. Good luck.

[67 Nova Boy]

What is a factory CE 302 worth then? My 302 in my car was bought over the counter in 73 as

a 302 with all the 302 pink rods/crank/pistons/windage tray shortblock with "292" heads.

Still standard bore. The balancer was taken off years ago as the pan was.

Dave
67 Nova Boy

[NorCam]

IMO, a standard bore 010 block with 4 bolt main caps is worth $500-$800 with no significant numbers on the pad. Add a couple hundred to that if it has matching 2482 main caps and another $250 for a CE coded block with a good stamp. I paid $1250 for a std. bore CE block last year which seems to be the going rate these days. Add $$$ for NOS, and detract $$ for .030 and .060 over bores.

The same holds true for forged cranks which can run $250-$500 for an 1182 steel crank for a 350ci, and $700-$1200 for 1178 cranks for the 302ci. Of course...price varies on the crank journals being clean and polished versus cut mains and rod journals at .010 or .020 under. The pink rods typically run $250-$500 a set if they are decent and I've seen many NOS sets in around the $700 mark. I don't put much value on used pistons unless they are part of a low mile engine that has never been apart. NOS slugs don't really excite me either since most are found in standard bore and it's not often you can use them unless you have an NOS block. In most cases, I'd simply buy a new set of Speed Pro .030+ forged pistons & rings, and resize the bores to match the pistons when rebuilding the short block.

If a short block is intact with all the right internal parts for a DZ302 build then the following applies to factoring in a fair market resale cost. An original DZ stamped block in standard bore but needing rebuilt is usually worth $2000-$3000 depending on the date stamp and how bad somebody really wants to buy it. Complete with correct crank, rods and pistons you can add another $1000 to the block for standard bores in decent shape. If it all needs to come apart and be rebuilt then perhaps take $500 away from the combined cost. If the short block includes the factory windage tray, original pan, AOR 8" timing cover and 7708 balancer, you can add another $750 to $1000 to the combined cost of the short block, but again it really depends on the overall condition.

With all of that being said, you'd now have a value of $4500-$5500 for a real cherry and complete short block, and you can deduct from there $$ based on how worn the bores and the reciprocating assembly really are. A good indicator is measuring the bores for wear and possibly pulling a few caps to check the bearings. The more complete with original parts, the better price that will be achieved. If the block has been decked, sleeved, rebuilt with mismatched parts, or has been re-stamped, then the value drops to that of the common used 350 which really isn't very much at all these days.

Now if it includes the correct 186 camel bump 2.02 heads with matching dates you can add another grand to the mix provided they haven't had the seats pounded out of them. Like anything, the more original and the better the condition the more to sum of the parts will be worth($$$ wise). The more it's been altered and/or abused, the lesser it will be worth. Hope that helps figure in some current day values.

[Lynn]

You nailed it.

That being said, if you can id the partial vin down by the oil filter (sometimes nearly impossilbe..... I had one that NOTHING but the N showed up even with the best digital photagraphy and editing) that block has some value to the owner of that car if it survived.