Product Question; Rust Treatment

[daleone3]

So the 1976 Formula discussed is in the garage though a couple of "gremlins" as expected with a low mileage rarely driven car. After some investigation of the tank and fuel filter, I determined the old fuel in the car in addition to moisture had caused quite a bit of erosion in the tank. It was disclosed that the car needed a sending unit (also pointed out by a member) so had planned on doing a cleanse on the fuel system anyway so not surprised. At this point, I have a new tank, sending unit, fuel pump, filter and back lines just about completed, waiting for a tank vent line (something related to emissions for that year). I will make sure the lines from the tank to the pump are tended to as well.
The car has been undercoated from new, under the tank was really nice red oxide primer and I was pretty pleased with that.
The only item I would like to freshen up is suspension related rust; leafs, front end, etc....I do not want to alter the originality of the car with undercarriage paint or related products. A friend told me about this made by New Hampshire Oil Undercoating. He was a previous Fluid Film advocate until he discovered this. It is a all natural non-permanent oil blend with a tint that will freshen it up without giving the appearance of a spray bomb job. I would only need to do front end components, parts of the rear end and leafs. Curious if anyone had experience with this product. Seems to be a nice alternative and again, I really don't want to do anything that is permanent and this will actually wash off over time but also claims to penetrate and stop the progression of rust. I did try a test spot on the old tank and it sprays nice and looks like the pic below, I was skeptical it was a photoshop situation on the pic they provided
I ended up getting the tank and related parts at Ames Performance in NH, great outfit. The sending unit is below, you can imagine what the inside of the tank looks like.....
Worth mentioning, the seller offered to pay for all parts and my time to address the problems though I declined knowing that he had been clear that the fuel was old and the car was running in a manner that would not indicate a big problem. Interestingly enough, the issue started ONLY after I introduced new ethanol fuel to the old fuel.
Thanks for any input, you guys have been beyond helpful with observations and opinions.

[napa68]

By replacing the components you have, I'd like to think you are through the worst of it. Perhaps freshening of the carb would not be the worst idea either.

I still like Boeshield the best. It protects metal, enhances color without looking fluffed, and dries in short time.

You have a nice time capsule there. Evaporust could really be your friend in order to reverse the rust on the components you made mention of. Getting the undercoating off is a messy and lousy job. What you will find underneath will be worth the BS.

[daleone3]

By replacing the components you have, I'd like to think you are thought the worst of it. Perhaps freshening of the carb would not be the worst idea either.

I still like Boeshield the best. It protects metal, enhances color without looking fluffed, and dries in short time.

You have a nice time capsule there. Evaporust could really be your friend in order to reverse the rust on the components you made mention of. Getting the undercoating off is a messy and lousy job. What you will find underneath will be worth the BS.

Agree on the carb approach, it appears new as the seller had it rebuilt by El Camino John (I honestly don't know who that is) but I assume it is someone he knows that has a name in the hobby. The tank was a mess, the fuel pump was not great BUT the fuel filter at the carb was surprisingly not bad. Regardless, that will be my last step to ensure a clean system.
I will check out Boeshield, thanks for that. What drew me to the NHU product was that is was all natural, non permanent and appears to have some of the same benefits of a rust inhibitor.
Undercoating....My 71 Camaro SS had the same undercoating so I am no stranger to that process and agree it is worth the trouble, be a project for another weekend but on the list.

[earntaz]

Agree on the carb approach, it appears new as the seller had it rebuilt by El Camino John (I honestly don't know who that is) but I assume it is someone he knows that has a name in the hobby. The tank was a mess, the fuel pump was not great BUT the fuel filter at the carb was surprisingly not bad. Regardless, that will be my last step to ensure a clean system.
I will check out Boeshield, thanks for that. What drew me to the NHU product was that is was all natural, non permanent and appears to have some of the same benefits of a rust inhibitor.
Undercoating....My 71 Camaro SS had the same undercoating so I am no stranger to that process and agree it is worth the trouble, be a project for another weekend but on the list.

I have used BoeShield and it is all it is advertised ... great stuff ... TAZ

[Charley Lillard]

The sending unit in my 900 mile 74 Z looked at least that bad and I saved it with media blasting, carb cleaner etc.

[BCreekDave]

I have used BoeShield and it is all it is advertised ... great stuff ... TAZ
Good stuff, but my can seems to forever clog internally! I have to pop the nozzle cap off and blow compressed air down the little plastic tube. then it will work for awhile and clog again. Any secrets here? It does seem to do it less in hot weather and I have dropped the can in a bucket of hot water in the winter and that helps too.

[Crush]

Good stuff, but my can seems to forever clog internally! I have to pop the nozzle cap off and blow compressed air down the little plastic tube. then it will work for awhile and clog again. Any secrets here? It does seem to do it less in hot weather and I have dropped the can in a bucket of hot water in the winter and that helps too.

Had same problem w 2 cans moved to fluid film and wool wax

[m22mike]

Good stuff, but my can seems to forever clog internally! I have to pop the nozzle cap off and blow compressed air down the little plastic tube. then it will work for awhile and clog again. Any secrets here? It does seem to do it less in hot weather and I have dropped the can in a bucket of hot water in the winter and that helps too.

Did the same with compressed air to get it working. As I often do with rattle can paint, try soaking the can it hot water for a few minutes. And clear the nozzle after use.
On the can's I could not clear. I poked a hole in the top with a awl and drained it into a squeeze bottle. Apply with a China brush.

Mike

[earntaz]

Good stuff, but my can seems to forever clog internally! I have to pop the nozzle cap off and blow compressed air down the little plastic tube. then it will work for awhile and clog again. Any secrets here? It does seem to do it less in hot weather and I have dropped the can in a bucket of hot water in the winter and that helps too.

One of mine did the same thing ... went to Wally World and bought a cheap squirt mister, drained the propellant form the BoeShield and punched a hole in the can. Dumped contents into the mister -- work good... goes long way.

[daleone3]

The sending unit in my 900 mile 74 Z looked at least that bad and I saved it with media blasting, carb cleaner etc.

Thank you Charley, I will retain the OE and keep "in stock" once I get it refreshed. Appreciate the share on the condition of yours, makes me feel a little better.

[auwrestling]

I have used BoeShield and it is all it is advertised ... great stuff ... TAZ

Boeshield T9 ?
https://www.danscomp.com/boeshield-bs-t9-lube-1-gallon-jug-t91000/p332663?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2pCFgLyv6AIVAp6fCh36TAtg EAQYKCABEgJMrfD_BwE

[earntaz]

Boeshield T9 ?
https://www.danscomp.com/boeshield-bs-t9-lube-1-gallon-jug-t91000/p332663?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2pCFgLyv6AIVAp6fCh36TAtg EAQYKCABEgJMrfD_BwE

Yes

[m22mike]

They should offer T9 in gallons like WD40 ? That wound be cool.

[auwrestling]

They should offer T9 in gallons like WD40 ? That wound be cool.

They do check the link out I just posted