Removing/Saving Lower Ball Joints

[CamarosRus]

I recently realized that the NOS lower control arms that I had
installed in my 1970 Camaro LCA's were NOT the Correct (with Tab) Style
for a LEGENDS Quality Restoration.

I have other Control Arms with Correct Original Ball Joints that
Im wanting to remove, restore the cosmetics & install in my
Original LCA's

Ive been instructed to pry off the Dust Boot Retaining Ring.
After soaking the Ball Joint End of Arm in Evaporust and using
KROIL I'm not able to budge the Boot Ring and it will easy to
bend and otherwise destroy it.

How can I press directly upon the threaded stud , as wont it
want to move and not stay straight....

I searched a bit, but couldnt find you tube video that dealt with this.

Thanks

[Lynn]

What you are proposing could be done; but it won't be easy.

You still run a risk of damaging the boot ring.

Assuming you have a good hydraulic press.

Spin the nut on top of the stud until it is perfectly flush with the top.

You may need to fab a fixture to place the LCA on to get the stud pointing straight up.

The nut will give you a larger flat surface to press down on.

I realize you didn't ask for any opinions, but are you CERTAIN the ball joints don't have any play in them? My recollection on Camaro lower ball joints are the the factory units were seldom good for more than 40k miles, even with regular maintenance. I replaced my originals because they had some play in them and my car only had 24k miles at the time.

[Lynn]

Can someone post pics of the lower ball joint with tab as opposed to the replacement ball joint?

[L16pilot]

Here is an NOS assembly line correct 70 Camaro lower ball joint with the tab for reference

[CamarosRus]

I've concluded that I need to use old original ball joints as my expert
friends at NastyZ28 say that EBAY NOS Lower & Upper Ball Joints for EARLY 2nd Gen
Camaros are pretty rare to find and then $$$$$$$$$$.

Not my intent to use BAD Joints but I need ORIGINAL correct looking joint
for a trailer queen.

[Lynn]

If it is s trailer queen, then some play isn't going to make much difference.

If it is just slightly worn, it really isn't a safety issue.

Good luck.

[Flying Undertaker]

Could you possible make up a tab out of the same thickness metal as the ring and have it tack welded, then filed to appear NOS?

[CamarosRus]

I have three....lower control arms (7???) that have the 1st design tab ball joints.
I've soaked all three ENDS in Evaporust
Ive been able to remove ONE of the Dust Cover/Grease Cup Retaining Rings
so my friend can use his ball joint press to remove
The other two Dust Boot Rings I cant budge, so my friend is going to use his
regular press to apply pressure directly to top of stud (with nut on the threads)

To be continued........................

[Mulsanne Blue]

Why don't you just use the old control arms with the ball joints that you're after? If the arms are pitted from rust, there are ways to deal with that.

[Spooky]

I would never press on the stud end to get a ball joint out that you are trying to reuse. You risk damaging the joint and causing a catastrophic failure while driving. Even though you may not drive it. next owner might. I'm not preaching here, just a thought of safety. I would just cut the lower control arm to get the joint out if it is too bad to restore, then press in your restored arm. Arms are cheap and easily found.

Scott

[dvss1]

DO NOT PRESS ON THE STUD!!! All you will do is screw the threads up even if you put a nut on it, but most important you will do damage to the ball and socket and make the ball joint useless. What I have done in the past was to first put the ball joint in hot water to expand the metal ring on the boot. There's about .005 thousandths press on the ring and the heat from the water will make the ring expand enough to get off easy and not do damage to the boot. I have used a craftsman adjustable prybar to get them off in the past as you can adjust the angle that your're prying against. I still think sears carry them but you going to have to find a sears or but it online. Next I made a fixture to press the joint out. A piece of heavy wall tubing or a piece of round stock long enough to not hit or press on the stud. The outer diameter need to be less than the arm housing by about .010 thousandths. Block up the arm in a press. I have used aluminum blocks or if thats not available Ive also used 4 x 4 wood from a used skid as that wood is strong enough to take pressing pressure. A LITTLE HEAT ON THE A ARM IS OK BUT DO NOT GET IT RED HOT AS YOU WILL DISTORT THE ARM!!! When you go to install the joint you will need another piece of bar to stock bigger than the bore flange of the a arm to press the ball joint in. Make sure you start the joint square with the bore and put some oil on both the bore and the joint where they are being pressed together. The oil will make pressing easier.
Hope this helps.

[jbtech]

Maybe you could practice on one of these. I would contact the sellers to verify the tabs are on the ball joint.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/70-81-CAMARO-FIREBIRD-TRANS-AM-DRIVER-LEFT-SIDE-LOWER-A-ARM-CONTROL-A-ARM/254604917017?fits=Year%3A1970%7CModel%3ACamaro&hash=item3b47a2b919%3Ag%3Awx8AAOSw6HteyBa4&LH_ItemCondition=3000

It looks like it has the original ball joint. I could be wrong.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/74-81-CAMARO-Z28-FIREBIRD-TA-RH-FRONT-LOWER-CONTROL-A-ARM-PASSENGER-RIGHT/202942340195?hash=item2f404e5c63%3Ag%3Azo8AAOSw3ft edq3-&LH_ItemCondition=3000

[CamarosRus]

UPDATE: My freind owns a repair shop in Auburn,WA and has a commercial Ball Joint Press Kit with All the misc pieces.
We were able to pry off All Three of the Dust Boot Rings using Screwdrivers.....Messed up the edges just a little bit but I able to use a power flapper wheel to dress everything up.
Wanted to use my Original Arms, Off my low mileage 70 Z as they are in great shape
& born with the car.
So I soaked the 50 year old lower joints in paint remover first and EVAPORUST 2nd.
They came out pretty nice. Seems like two of the lowers show what appears faded yellow zinc plating on end with zerc fitting. No pitting of the metal but there is remanants of the corrosion showing upon the metal.

Dont have pictures ready to upload here.............
Question: Dont know what I can further do to make the exposed metal area (around zerc)
look better........OR paint that area with Stainless Steel PAINT............OR Appy EMS paste and can it good .....If I glass bead, leaves the metal White, Then I do vibrate in my Big Tumbler to semi polish the glass beaded area back to look like ???

I also have One NOS Upper and One Used 1st design Upper to try and make look "better"

[MN 70L78]

Nice job getting them apart and cleaned up Chuck!

There are several options and not sure which method is best route in protecting them from rust. Whatever you spray on them may change the appearance. However, you could always wipe it off if you don't like it.