69 Z/28 Day II Project (Air Force Brat)

[NorCam]

I've been longing to do a 69 build with a Day II theme so here is the next project dubbed "Air Force Brat". The car is an original X77 sold new at Auran Chevrolet in Minot North Dakota. It's been apart for over 30 years and I purchased it from who I suspect is the 4th owner? He's had it for the past 25 years and it's now on the way up to western Canada where I'll restore the car with my eldest son. I'll dig back through the ownership when time permits and I'm hoping to learn more about the early ownership from it's North Dakota days.

Plans for this build include my son and I creating a righteous yellow on yellow Day II car with all the right parts and pieces to make it into a great little street machine and a throwback to the '70s. Once it's torn down, it's headed straight to the body shop to receive a new trunk pan and have a set of NOS GM quarters installed along with some bodywork. With the body repaired and the shell primed with the jambs painted, it'll come back to us for the underside to be cleaned up and refinished before we start doing the final assembly and paint prep. It will then be sprayed in 76 76 Daytona Yellow lacquer with factory correct stripes before the fun really begins.

Looking to build a righteous small block car with an M22 and some decent gearing inside its original 12 bolt. I have a small stash of Lakewood and NMW parts here and will now be on the hunt for some other period-correct parts to dress this one up nicely. The idea for the name for the car comes from it being sold right outside of Minot AFB. It leaves me to wonder if a pilot or base worker may have bought this car new? I'm sure it was well known with its yellow Houndstooth interior, options group and the Z/28 badges. The original engine and trans were both scattered back in 1974, so it will now make for a great day II car, and once complete it should be a total Brat!

https://i.ibb.co/PFk2Cmc/Air-Force-Brat.jpg
My son did a little artwork and designed a front plate that we'll put on the car when it's done.

https://i.ibb.co/1d8r8gX/Daytona-X77-1.jpg
The car has a GM cowl hood and all evidence supports it being an original ZL2 optioned car.

https://i.ibb.co/zPL0J3s/Daytona-X77-2.jpg
Original X77 car in Daytona Yellow with Yellow roof and matching yellow interior.

https://i.ibb.co/dK6wNzK/Daytona-X77-3.jpg
The rockers on both sides are in excellent condition as are the interior floors.

https://i.ibb.co/xM1NzBY/Daytona-X77-4.jpg
The drivers' door was replaced from an accident occurring long ago. Original 4 speed tunnel is clean but not sure what Day II gas pedal is in there?

https://i.ibb.co/wdH7FSw/Daytona-X77-5.jpg
I may struggle with the yellow interior. I don't mind the original yellow, but not a fan of the bright repro colors. Might take a run at restoring the originals.

https://i.ibb.co/25w8JqC/Daytona-X77-6.jpg
The original DY overspray can still be seen on the underside. I'll know more when it's here but I may try and save the underside.

https://i.ibb.co/s6RzntB/Daytona-X77-7.jpg
One of 188 Camaro's to receive this V75 option for Liquid Tire Chain. On the hunt for an original system now...

https://i.ibb.co/cgt41t3/Daytona-X77-8.jpg
The original 12 bolt BU diff dated Feb 24th. This will be rebuilt with some better gearing for the street and already has a Day II cover! :cool2:

https://i.ibb.co/fktdRgn/Daytona-X77-9.jpg
Rear bulkhead with the original X 7 crayon marking visible to the eye. Should reveal better after some cleaning.

https://i.ibb.co/rwLg0Gh/Daytona-X77-10.jpg
Original trim tag still intact. I'm not sure about the filler inside the rivets and will need to see if that's the factory resin?

https://i.ibb.co/ZMgcRFp/Daytona-X77-11.jpg
Rear tail panel is in excellent shape. The car does not have much rust showing anywhere.

https://i.ibb.co/M7yzgBh/Daytona-X77-12.jpg
Auran Chevrolet was the original dealer. It was taken over by Jim Ryan in 1973. His daughter now runs it as Ryan Buick GMC

https://i.ibb.co/3h2SWsh/Daytona-X77-14.jpg
Found this dealer tag on eBay and will add this to the rear panel after it's painted.

https://i.ibb.co/GnTmyLy/qt2.jpg
Original GM quarters that were bought for the car back in the late '90s by the seller. They were purchased with the car.

https://i.ibb.co/d6s4Bsb/qt1.jpg
Both have their original paper tags on the inside and will be used when the body's restored.

Stay tuned as more plans for the car unfold over the weeks and months ahead. As always, I invite your feedback and suggestions for the Day II appointments.

[Zedder]

Can’t wait to follow along Graeme!

[TimG]

It will be fun to watch the build. I vote for the yellow hounds-tooth interior, that looks great.

[chevelleheart]

Very nice project ! Will be fun to follow for sure!

[big gear head]

Do you plan on building a 302 for it or will it be something larger?

[Zedder]

Gotta be a 302 with the yellow guts!

[Rumbleguts396]

I cant wait to watch and follow along also. You do some real quality work and attention to detail. Bad thing is now I have competition again on those Day 2 parts in the for sale section !!!! ROB

[NorCam]

Do you plan on building a 302 for it or will it be something larger?

Still have this solid roller motor and plan to make use of it in the Camaro. It's a balanced and blueprinted 360ci build with a forged crank, Manley 4340 rods, Manley 2618 Pistons, Modified 200cc Aluminum Heads, and a Lunati Mechanical Roller @ 254/262 duration. It's built to run 7500 rpm and the heads are set up with Crower stainless rockers. I could also keep it a bit stock looking with an original 472 intake, stock covers, and an original cowl breather with a good mechanical carb tucked underneath it. I need to get a nice M22 or an M23 to run in behind it.

Fc96qcGUMxc

[NorCam]

I cant wait to watch and follow along also. You do some real quality work and attention to detail. Bad thing is now I have competition again on those Day 2 parts in the for sale section !!!! ROB

LOL...lately I watch the stuff selling on FB and shake my head at some of the prices. Good thing is I've been hanging onto some good vintage stuff here that I do plan to use.

[COPO]

I like the idea of a stoutly built motor, but dressed up to look mostly stock. Perhaps even paint the AL heads orange in addition to the finned VC's and 472 intake.

[big gear head]

I've had a M23Z in my car for a few years and just recently swapped it for a N24 with a slightly different set of gears. The M23 took a beating, and the Z gear set allowed me to easily pull away from a stop with 3.50 gears and 31 inch tires. The M23W might be worth looking into, or the M22W. These transmissions don't shift as easy as the original Muncie transmissions when driving around town. You don't just carelessly flick it into gear. You have to use just a little effort when shifting, but I never had any problems shifting at 7200 with my right foot on the floor.

[mockingbird812]

Let ‘er rip, Graeme. This’ll be a BLAST!!!!!!!
:3gears::3gears::3gears:

[NorCam]

I like the idea of a stoutly built motor, but dressed up to look mostly stock. Perhaps even paint the AL heads orange in addition to the finned VC's and 472 intake.

Yes... Heads are already painted orange and I do have all stock pulleys, a stock water pump, dull original covers, the original cowl breather and most of the correct peripherals to help dial it in as stock looking. I had this motor in my 68 a couple of years ago and ran it just long enough to break it in after it was built. It runs well and pulls really hard through the 7K+ range. I'm sure it would be better matched in the 69 using the other original parts I have sitting here for it.

https://i.ibb.co/cYd5BqQ/IMG-5043.jpg

[big gear head]

Does that roller cam require a bronze distributor gear? Mine kept eating gears, so I replaced the cam with a flat tappet solid and went back to a steel gear. I even tried the grove in the distributor hole that is supposed to spray oil on the gear, but it didn't work.

[ZLP955]

Nice. Will be following!

[NorCam]

Does that roller cam require a bronze distributor gear? Mine kept eating gears, so I replaced the cam with a flat tappet solid and went back to a steel gear. I even tried the grove in the distributor hole that is supposed to spray oil on the gear, but it didn't work.

Yes...bronze gear on a billet core. Was think of switching it for another Crower mechanical but have not seen any wear on the gear in the first 375 miles of use and just had it out again to inspect it. So far so good.

[luv2sixty9]

Sweet!! I as well will be following this build.

[jbtech]

Subscribed! COOL!

[Chuck_Burg]

Another Day 2 build to follow! I'm subscribed

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

Subscribed!!!

Now let’s talk tire size, rear gear ratio, trans ratios!!!

Ryan W31

[NorCam]

Wide Ratio 2:56 1st gear, 4:56 Rear and not sure on tire height but they will be 50's on the back. I currently have some NOS H50/15 Mickeys but they are a lower 26" profile so they they may be changed up to Pro-Trac N50's for the extra 2" of height. Fronts will be getting some skinnies. Looking for some air shocks for the back now. I should have kept those Hurst Shocks I had (lol)

[napa68]

Wide Ratio 2:56 1st gear, 4:56 Rear and not sure on tire height but they will be 50's on the back. I currently have some NOS H50/15 Mickeys but they are a lower 26" profile so they they may be changed up to Pro-Trac N50's for the extra 2" of height. Fronts will be getting some skinnies. Looking for some air shocks for the back now. I should have kept those Hurst Shocks I had (lol)

I ran a M22W in my 67 Nova behind the 422" SBC. 3.70 gear on a 26" tall tire. It was an attention getter to say the least:). You think the 4.56 may be a bit too much?

BTW, I've got that beer ready for when you come through (if they ever open the effen border)

[NorCam]

Had 4:56 gears in the Nova and it wasn't all that bad (except on the highway) lol. It only had 26" rear tires and would have been better with some 28" rubber. It depends what tires I run on the Camaro, but could always opt for 4:10's and that would ease up on the rpm a bit. I'm not as concerned about the highway RPM as I don't plan on running it on the highway other than in and out of town for cruise nights which is a 20-minute run for me right into south Calgary. And, I'm lucky if I do cruise night once or twice a year. This one will be more of a street/strip car that can also go out for track days but will be a while until it's ready for that.

Unfortunately the Beers too....will have to wait until MCACN or another road trip Tim. :beers:

The CAN/USA border is still closed and may not fully reopen for a while, so I pulled the trigger and got TFX to pick the car up in PA. They are actually loading it up early this morning. It should be here in a week or two and I will take a full inventory and get started on the work just as soon as I unpack it. It comes with much of its original parts and pieces (very complete car) and is pretty well stuffed to the brim for the trip north.

Can't wait to dive into it and get started...:biggthumpup:

https://i.ibb.co/cwgCFnZ/Packed-1.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/SVvC8Qs/IMG-0682.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/K73Tk48/IMG-0685.jpg

[NorCam]

The seller was kind enough to rent a trailer and haul it over to meet the transport truck this morning. It's now loaded on the transporter and is on its way to the great white north...Eh!

Soon...it will begin the next chapter. :flag:

https://i.ibb.co/68kyPh4/Daytona-X77-15.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/Ns2XPtD/Daytona-X77-16.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/LxQrjxs/Daytona-X77-17.jpg

[Chuck_Burg]

With a 2.56 first gear, a 4.56 rear gear and 28" tall tires you'll have a starting line ratio of 11.67! 4.11s would give 10.52 which is probably a little more manageable. I'm nowhere near an expert on this but I think the 10.50 range is where you want to be with a light weight Camaro with a 3.50" stroke.

[NorCam]

With a 2.56 first gear, a 4.56 rear gear and 28" tall tires you'll have a starting line ratio of 11.67! 4.11s would give 10.52 which is probably a little more manageable. I'm nowhere near an expert on this but I think the 10.50 range is where you want to be with a light weight Camaro with a 3.50" stroke.

Agreed Chuck. I looked at the calculators after posting that combo the other day to help decide if I was going to order a close-ratio (.220 first) or a wide ratio (.256) trans. I have now decided on the wide ratio and will likely go with 4:10 gears.

[Chuck_Burg]

I have a 496 going in my 67 with a standard close ratio M22 with a 2.20 first and 28" tires. I'm in a similar boat to you, not really concerned with driving it on the highway for sustained periods... Not sure which gears to go with. It is a street/strip car with 90% street use. I think 4.11s are ideal but will blow the tires away on the street in probably every gear. May go with something around 3.55 even though the first gear will go forever... What are your thoughts?

[NorCam]

Big block torque will do that to you...but that's also half the fun. I'm sure this small block will be better on the tall end while making its power in the upper rpm range where I like my shift points. After the smoke's gone, there is nothing better than pulling away from a car while banging gears at 7K plus.

[NorCam]

Got the car up into Alberta this week and the first thing I did was unpack everything to take a bit of an inventory. There are a lot of great parts here that will need to be restored, and a few missing parts that I will need to be hunting down. I've already started to knock the car back to the shell and prep it for a trip to the body shop, That will happen in a just a few short weeks so there's isn't much time to waste. The sheet metal work will lead the way while I'm busy restoring the sub-frame, suspension and the differential.

Below are the pics I took after everything was unpacked on Monday. In the last image, the previous owner surprised me with a little gift that he packed into the car. Three very nice T3 headlamps he pulled from a low mile Camaro that was wrecked many years ago (thank you Fred). It was also nice to find the carburetor came with the Stamp Rite fuel line bracket which is a very hard part to find. Now to get busy with the car and get a jig built for it. It won't be long before the sheet metal work is underway, so stay tuned.

:beers:

https://i.ibb.co/dJYpBXt/IMG-1101.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/5TJJzVJ/IMG-1085.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/Qf1MgpG/IMG-1100.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/wCdpvF0/IMG-1123.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/qdV119q/IMG-1102.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/xssSHc5/IMG-1098.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/d71V7p4/IMG-1097.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/93CNSY3/IMG-1087.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/7pfGxty/IMG-1086.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/QpS4bBN/IMG-1088.jpg

[DW31S]

Killer project! Gonna be a screamer! As far as gear ratios.....quicker, cleaner and easier to change transmissions than diff gears. If you have a spare Muncie or two (with the same input & tailshaft), they can be swapped/tailored to your combo in an hour or so. Make sure you degree in your bellhousing for those high rpm flatshifts.......but you already knew that.

[Tracker1]

Wow, that Stamp RITE tells you how complete that car is. Impressive.

[Damien]

Can't believe I'm late to this party! Looking forward to another fantastic build.

[ZLP955]

IIRC the Stamp-Rite bracket only appeared in later production, but good to get a hard-to-find part with the car!

[NorCam]

I always thought the carb bracket was a late issue part too Tim, but I've recently seen claims of them also being found on early cars. Funny thing is that this one was paired with a very early carb that is dated August 68. Go figure?

[ZLP955]

Hmm. Earliest car I’ve heard of with that support bracket was around the early July ‘69 build timeframe. But no matter, it’s a scarce part that you could run with, put on the shelf, or sell to help fund the build. Either way, a very cool day 2 project.

[rszmjt]

My 06A RSZ28 has the support bracket, actual production June 21/69, owned the car for 46 yrs.

[Mr.Nickey Nova]

I have a late June car with the support bracket also.

[NorCam]

Parts are starting to come together for this build. First off, Bergy was kind enough to hook me up with enough parts to rebuild the V75 liquid tire chain option including a case of traction compound. On the transmission front, Jeff Collins is building me an M23Z with a 2.99/1.87/1.35/1.00 gear ratio. For the shifter, Eric Davidson is rebuilding a stock 3138 shifter for me and I'll keep the inside somewhat stock looking with the factory console.

I will however add a couple of gauges to the cowl panel and one to the column as I have purchased SUN Fuel and Vacuum gauges with 2-5/8" chrome cups and further scored an NOS NC-5 Cup and SST 10K tack for the steering column. Finally I also managed to scoop an NOS Hurst line loc kit so things are progressing well on the parts front. Next up is to secure a nice set of original Torque Thrusts or perhaps a set of Fentons to round out the look I am going for.

Anyone have a nice pair of Fentons or M/T stashed away? (Oh Grady!) :3gears:

https://i.ibb.co/fG8NpTh/IMG-0853.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/kD4cw1Y/IMG-0854.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/2FDQZn7/Sun-Fuel.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/wrd9zJT/Sun-Vac.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/chLvGB4/Sun-801.jpg


https://i.ibb.co/c2ycTHx/Hurst-Line.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/fFWG9KR/Hurst-Roll.jpg

[ZLP955]

Very cool parts stash

[NorCam]

I have a 496 going in my 67 with a standard close ratio M22 with a 2.20 first and 28" tires. I'm in a similar boat to you, not really concerned with driving it on the highway for sustained periods... Not sure which gears to go with. It is a street/strip car with 90% street use. I think 4.11s are ideal but will blow the tires away on the street in probably every gear. May go with something around 3.55 even though the first gear will go forever... What are your thoughts?

Chuck, that 2.20 first gear with 3.55 gears and 28" tires will have a final ratio of around 7.80 which is going to pull the engine down when you let go the clutch. Granted your 496 is going to have more torque but there are much better transmission gear ratio combinations for street cars that will also see some highway use. (See the AGE gearing options here) (http://www.autogear.net/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Syracuse_modular_update.pdf)

To keep it fun off the lights with 28" tall tires, I chose to run a 2.99 first gear. With the stock 3:73 rear, this should have a final ratio of 11.15 and will feel like having 5:13 gears off the light. Granted it will be a short shift when driving normally, but at WOT this should keep a good set of sticky tires running on the ragged edge until 2nd gear is pulled at 50 mph. I'd then pull 2nd gear at 4500 rpm and 3rd/4th would keep me in the 5200/5300 range on a full pass.

Best part is I get all the excitement of a great rpm launch that won't pull the motor down and will still have the final gear ratio of 3.73 for the highway runs in 4th. I may even choose to step down to a 3.55 rear gear when I rebuild the diff. That would have me in the 10.6 final range which is even more ideal. With big block torque, you could even go 3.31 and still have a better transmission ratio to easily launch the car without pulling the motor down off the line. Plus it's way more fun launching like it has 4:88's.

Might want to look into the gearing options here and check the multiplier on trans gearing x final ratio. :naughty:

[big gear head]

I got the 346 gear set in my new N24. I have the 335 gears in my old M23. The 346 gear set will reduce the large RPM drop from 3rd to 4th that I have with the 335 gears.

[NorCam]

I have a set of TT wheels with some NOS H/50 Mickey Thompsons I mounted on the car to see how the 50's look on 8.50 rims. I really like the look and the width, but these were just for mockup purposes and are actually too short a profile for this car. Next up will be to mount some taller 28" rear tires but that will not happen until the car is back from the body shop.

https://i.ibb.co/vjTkdKS/Rear-Profile.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/L1HvNzd/Rear-Side.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/qB8y9vz/IMG-3583.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/1TtZzdm/IMG-3588.jpg

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

Chuck, that 2.20 first gear with 3.55 gears and 28" tires will have a final ratio of around 7.80 which is going to pull the engine down when you let go the clutch. Granted your 496 is going to have more torque but there are much better transmission gear ratio combinations for street cars that will also see some highway use. (See the AGE gearing options here) (http://www.autogear.net/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Syracuse_modular_update.pdf)

To keep it fun off the lights with 28" tall tires, I chose to run a 2.99 first gear. With the stock 3:73 rear, this should have a final ratio of 11.15 and will feel like having 5:13 gears off the light. Granted it will be a short shift when driving normally, but at WOT this should keep a good set of sticky tires running on the ragged edge until 2nd gear is pulled at 50 mph. I'd then pull 2nd gear at 4500 rpm and 3rd/4th would keep me in the 5200/5300 range on a full pass.

Best part is I get all the excitement of a great rpm launch that won't pull the motor down and will still have the final gear ratio of 3.73 for the highway runs in 4th. I may even choose to step down to a 3.55 rear gear when I rebuild the diff. That would have me in the 10.6 final range which is even more ideal. With big block torque, you could even go 3.31 and still have a better transmission ratio to easily launch the car without pulling the motor down off the line. Plus it's way more fun launching like it has 4:88's.

Might want to look into the gearing options here and check the multiplier on trans gearing x final ratio. :naughty:

I vote figuring out gear ratios for these old cars!!! My drivetrain selection is very similar to yours, 2.98 first gear, 3.42 rear gears, and 26.2” tall tires. Awesome SLR (starting line ratio)

The gear spacing is extra wide and feels a little much, especially at some downshift situations.....

Ryan W31

[NorCam]

I got the 346 gear set in my new N24. I have the 335 gears in my old M23. The 346 gear set will reduce the large RPM drop from 3rd to 4th that I have with the 335 gears.

I went with the same 346 gearset Freddie. I'll need that with mine being a small block car. I bet your big block car is a lot of fun to bang gears with.

[big gear head]

I'm hoping for a better ET with the new gears. I should be able to get it on the track in about 2 weeks. Yes, it's a lot of fun.

[NorCam]

With some AMD sheet metal on its way to to repair the floors in this car, I have started pulling the body down to prepare it for a trip to the body shop in August. Starting with the firewall, I have removed the wiring harnesses, heater core, steering column, pedal carrier and the brake booster. The lower firewall and toe boards are going to need a little love and while that work is being performed, I'll be busy restoring the sub-frame, front brakes, and rebuilding the rear diff along with the original 4 leaf springs.

Today, I'm sending a set of motor mounts down to Nathan Schmidt at Sweet Ave Fabrication so he can mockup an engine block and frame for the correct Z/28 engine heights. He thinks the MT headers should be completed for September which is awesome. The rest of the Camaro parts I have on order should be along during the same time frame and that's when I'm hoping to have the car back with all the metal work completed and the floors and jambs painted up (fingers crossed). I'll follow that up by starting the assembly process and really hope to have this car finished up over the winter months. In the interim, it's almost down to the bare shell now and a good friend of mine is busy welding together a 2x2 rolling frame jig for the car to sit on. It'll support the front of the shell and the rear frame rails at the anchor points. This will make it easy to work on the car while moving it around as a roller and keeping it square.

Once the metal work is finished up with new rear quarters installed it will move onto the rotisserie where the floors and firewall with get a couple coats of satin paint before the jambs are each dressed in yellow. The inside will also be cleaned up with all of the seams sealed before it also receives a new coat of paint. Seen below are a couple shots of the rear seat frame with the X 7 factory markings intact. Normally these markings are seen in yellow, but this car was factory marked in black? Is that because the inside of the car had yellow floor paint when built so an opposing marker color was used due to the overspray? First time I have seen black markings on a seat frame?

https://i.ibb.co/Rcx9XDP/IMG-1346.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/jgpnLtV/IMG-1347.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/jJkRMQ8/IMG-1360.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/QKMLLyY/IMG-1362.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/58vW6SH/IMG-1339.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/j5mDnYy/IMG-1338.jpg

[Salvatore]

4.56 is a great ratio with a M20 wide box. I have 28" Mickeys on the back mounted on 6" Cragar rims and have ZERO issues. No problem driving on the highway at a reasonable RPM and MPH. No substitute for gearing in a SBC.

[NorCam]

Sam,

Doesn't matter which way I turn when I leave my place...and I'm on a 70mph highway with the nearest cruise destination being 30 to 60 minutes away. In saying that...4:56 gears are not even a consideration when I can use an extra wide first gear (2.99) and a 28" rear tire. At 70 mph with 3:73 rear gears I'll be running 3400 rpm. If I swap in 3:55 gears that drops to 3250 rpm. With 4:56 gears I'd be pulling 4200 rpm at 70 mph. (so not gonna happen buddy) lol

[Salvatore]

OK Tripper, sounds like a plan. Didn't know you were going for that steep a first gear. Jody doing that Trans for you?

[NorCam]

No sir. Jeff Collins at Midwest Muncie is putting it together for me. Tough decision as they are both good builders, but Jeff had all the answers for me a second time around and earned the business.

[Chuck_Burg]

Chuck, that 2.20 first gear with 3.55 gears and 28" tires will have a final ratio of around 7.80 which is going to pull the engine down when you let go the clutch. Granted your 496 is going to have more torque but there are much better transmission gear ratio combinations for street cars that will also see some highway use. (See the AGE gearing options here) (http://www.autogear.net/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Syracuse_modular_update.pdf)

To keep it fun off the lights with 28" tall tires, I chose to run a 2.99 first gear. With the stock 3:73 rear, this should have a final ratio of 11.15 and will feel like having 5:13 gears off the light. Granted it will be a short shift when driving normally, but at WOT this should keep a good set of sticky tires running on the ragged edge until 2nd gear is pulled at 50 mph. I'd then pull 2nd gear at 4500 rpm and 3rd/4th would keep me in the 5200/5300 range on a full pass.

Best part is I get all the excitement of a great rpm launch that won't pull the motor down and will still have the final gear ratio of 3.73 for the highway runs in 4th. I may even choose to step down to a 3.55 rear gear when I rebuild the diff. That would have me in the 10.6 final range which is even more ideal. With big block torque, you could even go 3.31 and still have a better transmission ratio to easily launch the car without pulling the motor down off the line. Plus it's way more fun launching like it has 4:88's.

Might want to look into the gearing options here and check the multiplier on trans gearing x final ratio. :naughty:

Good advice! I think I'll go with 3.55s and the current set up initially. If it lugs too hard in first, I'll go with the wide gear set in the AGE M22. I've never owned a car with this kind of torque (other than a magnuson superchargerd 2016 LT1 Camaro, which was just stupid) so I'll see how it goes... I don't think street tires will stand a chance even with the 2.20 first gear and 496 torque.

[NorCam]

Still working away on the car here while the search is on for some good parts. I have a couple sYc members who have a number of good parts including many NOS trim pieces that are aligning well for use on this car. Should be hitting the body shop with it in just a couple of weeks.

In the interim, I'm hoping that an sYc member may have a swath or two of original 714 Yellow Houndstooth fabric available so I can repair the covers on the front buckets. I know the dye lots differ but would love to know if anyone has a couple chunks squirreled away that they would compare/share so I can maybe get one or two seats up and running with some original cloth?

Here's a sample from Al Knoch (very bright vinyl) while I await samples from SMS and others. Looking for a more buttery vinyl.

https://i.ibb.co/cLTbd2S/Less-bright-on-Vinyl-Please.jpg

[NorCam]

Had to get a bit creative while getting the diff out from under the car as it was sitting on the 4 post lift but it's out now and will soon be stripped down and rebuilt. The old ET cover is in great shape with some light oxidization and a few layers of dust. It will be properly restored when the housing is out being powder coated in the coming weeks. Lots to do as the car is out to have a frame jig built under it later this week, then it's off to the body shop for a month or two.

https://i.ibb.co/ckYf1Rw/IMG-1493.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/MBD9mWY/IMG-1495.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/LdfBNh3/IMG-1496.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/zPGRwmf/IMG-1504.jpg

[X66 714]

It looks like it has a 10 bolt....Joe

[markinnaples]

Looks like a 12 bolt to me?

[X66 714]

Looks like a 12 bolt to me?
I see it now...Joe

[NorCam]

Yup...original 12 bolt rear dated BU 0224. When I first looked at the cover I thought cool, it has the ET style cover but it kinda looks deep from the top down view. Are they all this way with that sort of overall depth? Tearing into to this week with a full restoration planned for it including fresh powder coating. Also adding C-Clip eliminators and performance axle upgrades.

https://i.ibb.co/R2rbczq/IMG-1502.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/CzcxP8T/12b.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/xqWx47x/IMG-1503.jpg

[big gear head]

It always makes me sad to see someone take a nice original rear end like that and add c clip eliminators to it. When you do that the housing is permanently damaged. Do you really need them?

[scuncio]

To pile on, the C-clip eliminator kits tend to leak and do require irreversable changes to the tube interface. IMO if you aren't running slicks and sidestepping the clutch at 5k I would just buy a set of high quality replacement C-clip axles and call it good.

[NorCam]

To pile on, the C-clip eliminator kits tend to leak and do require irreversable changes to the tube interface. IMO if you aren't running slicks and sidestepping the clutch at 5k I would just buy a set of high quality replacement C-clip axles and call it good.

Yes Tony,

Have already looked at C-clip axles and they won't cut it with tech now days. Car should make near to 500 horse and anyone who knows me knows I enjoy side stepping the clutch at 4K. This car will see the track on occasion and in order to meet tech it's going to need c-clip eliminators or a conversion to 9" ends as it will be running slicks. Either that or if I want to step it up, a complete housing upgrade. (I can already hear the cheers)

I have considered a Moser 9" or maybe run a heavier Dana 60 and might go that route if I need a carrier and/or a new gear set. I'll know more on that next week and that may just be the option I choose so go easy here guys. I do not want a broken axle or torn up quarter panel just for the sake of saving an original set of axle tubes in a car that will never see the light of being a numbers car ever again.

:stupid:

[napa68]

Dana 60.........very day 2 like!

[big gear head]

The S60 is a nice rear end with some nice upgrades over the original Dana 60 rear end. It's also usually a little cheaper than some of the other options. Moser also makes an upgraded 60 rear end.
I changed gears in my 9 inch last week and found that the bearing cap bolts on the ring gear side had stretched and bent, and I'm using the best nodular case that Ford made. The bolts are 1/2 inch, compared to the 7/16 bolts in the 12 bolt. My axles also have some twist in them. I'm going to have to upgrade to 35 spline axles and an after market case with larger bolts and steel caps if I keep racing this thing. I'm making 563 HP.

[scuncio]

An aftermarket rear is never a bad idea but IMO you don’t need any of that at the power level you’re after. IIRC c clip eliminators are mandated only if you’re breaking into the 10s. Good luck with whatever you choose to do.



Yes Tony,

Have already looked at C-clip axles and they won't cut it with tech now days. Car should make near to 500 horse and anyone who knows me knows I enjoy side stepping the clutch at 4K. This car will see the track on occasion and in order to meet tech it's going to need c-clip eliminators or a conversion to 9" ends as it will be running slicks. Either that or if I want to step it up, a complete housing upgrade. (I can already hear the cheers)

I have considered a Moser 9" or maybe run a heavier Dana 60 and might go that route if I need a carrier and/or a new gear set. I'll know more on that next week and that may just be the option I choose so go easy here guys. I do not want a broken axle or torn up quarter panel just for the sake of saving an original set of axle tubes in a car that will never see the light of being a numbers car ever again.

:stupid:

[Damien]

I've always been a fan of keeping true to the manufacturer where possible and with the technology today there are a few nice 12 bolt housing/C clip eliminator set ups on the market.

[NorCam]

Dana 60.........very day 2 like!

Had a Dana 60 in this 69 I built up in the early 90's. With sure grip mono leaf springs, it was totally awesome! It saw 7200 rpm on a very regular basis and was my daily driver in the summer.

https://i.ibb.co/b38hYPr/Z28s.jpg

[big gear head]

If you wanted to stay with a 12 bolt the Moser 12 bolt has very thick bearing caps with 1/2 inch bolts and 1/4 inch thick seamless axle tubes with 9 inch Ford housing ends that have the Chevy brake bolt pattern. It's much stronger than the Chevy 12 bolt.

[rszmjt]

Yup...original 12 bolt rear dated BU 0224. When I first looked at the cover I thought cool, it has the ET style cover but it kinda looks deep from the top down view. Are they all this way with that sort of overall depth? Tearing into to this week with a full restoration planned for it including fresh powder coating. Also adding C-Clip eliminators and performance axle upgrades.

https://i.ibb.co/R2rbczq/IMG-1502.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/CzcxP8T/12b.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/xqWx47x/IMG-1503.jpg


That’s a Cal Custom diff cover FWIW, circa 1972 up.

A moser housing with .250 wall DOM tubes, heavy caps & billet axles are $1300 , far better than the GM production seamed axle tubes and cast caps, which are the weak link.

With complete original 12 bolts bringing $3500 + , maybe a option Graeme?

[NorCam]

Probably not a bad idea Mike. Was going to rebuild it and beef it up, but building a new Moser diff is so much more in line with what this car actually needs. Planning on a 9K screamer for it in the future so I might as well build the diff I am going to need down the road.

I'll figure out what to do with this one later and might offer it up locally.

[NorCam]

Still working away with things and had a better look at all of the original interior upholstery today to see what can be saved. We are confident that the rear covers can be saved and we pulled them off the frames today so I can start deep cleaning the vinyl. Once scrubbed down, they will head off to the dry cleaners to see how the fabric cleans up. From there, my upholsterer will sew new piping onto the patterns to bring them around.

https://i.ibb.co/jTvSLN7/Rear.jpg
The rear covers are filthy, but they really look like they will clean up.

https://i.ibb.co/dM2Rm9C/Back.jpg
Once the vinyl is clean, the covers will go to the dry cleaners.

https://i.ibb.co/YW8xV04/Bottom.jpg
The frames will be stripped down and soaked in evapo-rust to restore them before rebuilding them.

We can probably save the front vinyl too...but the drivers seat will require a couple of custom made repair panels and likely a little dye work to make it all match up once the covers are deep cleaned. I am in need of houndstooth fabric for the centers and need to flip some stones to see if I can find a set of original rear covers to graft some original cloth from (anyone know of a set or original rear seat covers???). The rear patterns should fit the bucket inserts so I am really hoping someone has kept an old set of rear covers that I can purchase?

If that fails then new fabric will be used for the centers and the vinyl will then be rebuilt as mentioned above. Also found a couple used seat backs that will dye up nicely to match the yellow vinyl after its all cleaned and restored.

https://i.ibb.co/kSBCmH1/Possible.jpg
If I can find another set of rear covers, the material can graft into these buckets???

https://i.ibb.co/ZGyWqzY/Buckets.jpg
These frames will also be cleaned up once the covers are off to be worked on! Someone has already done some clean up on the slides. I'll make them better!

https://i.ibb.co/4KDV6Ck/Seat-backs.jpg
Found these rear seat backs in the upholsterers pile of spare parts. These will dye rather nicely and should be easily matched up.

Once all the tedious work is done, these will head over to Chad at Fibrenew. He's a vinyl repair master craftsman who can patch and dye just about anything.

[NorCam]

In other good news, it looks like we can save the original door panels and the head rests as well. A previous owner dyed some of the ABS stuff with SEMS black and I already started testing a few spots to see if I can remove the black, and I can. The yellow color underneath is the right shade of yellow and for whatever it takes...I will spend the time needed to bring them back. They will also head over to Chad at Fibrenew for a few vinyl repairs and some new carpet along the bottoms once they are cleaned up.

The rears can also be saved but we may try some new vinyl on the back panels and again dye it up to match at the same time as doing the seat backs. The head rests are actually in really good shape and trust they will also clean up once the black dye is removed. I'll then get a couple new sets of white hinge covers and some new finger cups for the doors which will also be dyed yellow. I'm thinking the interior is going to look right at home when this Air Force Brat is brought full circle.

I'll add pics of the door panels a little later this evening and will post some progress pictures as they are being cleaned. Won't be easy...but it'll be done right!

https://i.ibb.co/6ZsY1nS/IMG-1568.jpg
Door panels before they are steamed and deep cleaned

https://i.ibb.co/fY6W1Q0/IMG-1569.jpg
A little test spot to see how the black dye can be removed

https://i.ibb.co/0rwkV0W/IMG-1571.jpg
Original rears that will receive new vinyl and some dye work to match

https://i.ibb.co/8rDD6qd/IMG-1572.jpg
Original head rests which are in really good shape overall

https://i.ibb.co/2v5GgzF/IMG-1573.jpg
Both sides are dated and these should clean up nicely (fingers crossed)

[R68GTO]

Righteous effort going on right there. Can't wait to see the results!

[NorCam]

Did some background digging on the car this past week and got in touch with a couple previous owners. I talked with a previous titled owner (William F.) of Brainerd Minnesota where I knew the car had made a brief stop in the late 80's. Turned out he owned it for a few years and then sold it to a friend (Larry C.), who moved it to another friend (Jay D.), who later sold it into PA where it landed with another Camaro guy. He then sold it to Fred L. (previous owner to me) who had owned it for the past 25 years before selling it this summer.

As best as William could recall, the car has been off the road since the early 1980's from what he knew. He's the same age as me (54) and said when he owned it from about 86-89 that he wanted to restore it as he knew what he had, but said he was young and that funds were a bit tight as he already owned other car including a Chevelle which he has kept all these years. He also told me who he bought the yellow Z from, and who had owned it prior to that. Both guys were local and he said both of them were total car guys. He then went on to say the first of the two guys had a few hot cars back in the 70's and 80's and he was known for hell raising around Brainerd MN with his cars. In fact, he told me that this particular owner used to roast the tires right in front of the local police station in Brainerd. I laughed because you know the cops are going to have your number when you're driving a yellow on yellow car. From what was discussed with William, it sounds like these guys drove their cars hard, and apparently had some fun with their street machines around the little drag race town.

In the past few weeks, I've gone through the car thoroughly and had discovered a few early patch panels welded into the car from one of the previous owners, one of which had me scratching my head a bit? It included some graft work with a section of another car welded in as a repair to the front tunnel area and lower cowl section. I discussed this with Fred L. who arrived with the determination that it must have been a repair from a clutch explosion. It was like a light bulb switched on when he said that. Sure enough, I quickly learned from William that he had grafted in a tunnel section from another car as he got the yellow Z with some previous floor damage due to the clutch having exploded prior. He went on to tell me he stick welded it out in his driveway and froze has butt off in doing so. I can only imagine it was the off season and I know it gets cold in northern Minnesota.

I have since reached out to the earliest owner known to the car and he was kind enough to call me back earlier this morning. We only chatted for a few minutes as he's busy working on a project today, but shared a few laughs and talked about the tunnel quickly. Turns out he bought the car with some floor damage up in the tunnel and said that the original 302 motor was killed when the clutch exploded. The subsequent damage took out the crank, the block and the M21 that was in it. He said we'd talk more tonight but was excited to learn of the cars existence and said, hang tight and I'll text you a couple pictures to keep you revving until we talk again. Yeah I got two texts a few minutes later...and you can only image how wide my eyes opened when he texted me with the following pics.

He sent me the yellow picture shown below, followed by the second picture. All I can say is Bingo! More in the coming days as I chase down the rest of the history and talk with as many people as possible. I'm over the top here just a bit today.

https://i.ibb.co/0BrQsLw/Z28-Robin-Conklin.jpg
Pictured here when owned by Robin Conklin - Circa 1980's

https://i.ibb.co/1XWCQ1b/Invoice-Auran.jpg
A little surprise texted to me from Robin earlier this morning. I'm on it now!

[Crush]

That is so cool! Tracking down previous owners is such a big part of owning these cars. I have been fortunate to find 2 original owners!
Keep it coming.

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

Dealer invoice and fossil photos!!


Jackpot!!


Ryan W31.

[Z28Project]

Wow what great info to find out! Those connections don't happen every day.
I used to run those Polysteel tires on my Z back in my autocross days in the late 70's, early 80's. They were surprisingly great for that!

John

[rlw68]

A little surprise texted to me from Robin earlier this morning. I'm on it now!

geez Graeme, like we all don't have one of these ... :grin:

Now you need to find an endura bumper !

170594

[NorCam]

geez Graeme, like we all don't have one of these ... :grin:

Now you need to find an endura bumper !

170594

And a Rosewood Wheel, and a Tilt Column, and another AM Radio, and some missing Deluxe Belts. Now I know what disappeared. (lol)

[Motorhead848]

What great detective work!!

Now the question is, what direction does it get restored? Day 2? As delivered?

What a great looking car.... now I really regret not acting on it!! Can’t wait to see this one done.

[NorCam]

What great detective work!!

Now the question is, what direction does it get restored? Day 2? As delivered?

What a great looking car.... now I really regret not acting on it!! Can’t wait to see this one done.

Still going to be Day 2, but nothing that can't be undone at a later point. Maybe rebuild the original 12 bolt and not plan to beat the living snot out of it?

[napa68]

Still going to be Day 2, but nothing that can't be undone at a later point. Maybe rebuild the original 12 bolt and not plan to beat the living snot out of it?

This my friends........is where project creep begins! Before you know it, there will be a properly dated 302 and M21 sitting beside it all!

[NorCam]

This my friends........is where project creep begins! Before you know it, there will be a properly dated 302 and M21 sitting beside it all!

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-W0QcE8rgy5E/Vrmnk1lQNsI/AAAAAAAAIO8/chvphbFLVPk/s1600/rofl-smiley.png

[Billohio]

Loaded up car, very nice

[NorCam]

Did OK locating some good parts for the car over the past few days. Found an original yellow bumper for the front end and this is great as the frame already had the inner Endura brackets mounted to it when I pulled the front bumper off. The bumper will need a few repairs but should work out great for this car once it's prepped.

Big thanks for Jeff M. for hooking me up with a front bumper. :youguysrock:

https://i.ibb.co/x8TgNh6/IMG-1609.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/whWHrG4/IMG-1608.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/C60XtrY/Endura-3.jpg

[NorCam]

Rob R. was also kind enough to reach out with a few other parts that were needed for this car. A nice pair of original 418 covers, a nice 309 master cylinder, and another neat little item for the cause. It's starting to come together.

Thanks Rob!!! :biggthumpup:


https://i.ibb.co/GVLKy2t/71-E16775-DA5-A-45-BF-9-CDB-C846-F78-C2-AB6.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/HtWzD4R/F9192545-5-B80-4-E0-E-8825-470-E06-C2-D329.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/T4XjhFR/C6-B32-D1-E-F73-C-48-B4-BB33-7-AF520-B9-C378.jpg

[NorCam]

And here is the last of the recent parts finds with some NOS GM trim pieces, original GM brackets, and some old day 2 style 8mm Super Stock plug wires. I think I have all the exterior trim covered with a lot of NOS parts to dress the body after it's painted. I also found a nice Rosewood Wheel today and will now continue working to find a 69 tilt column and some deluxe seat belts to round out the inside. Feels like I'm going a hundred miles an hour here but I still have a long ways to go. Thanks to all those who have been sending info on parts. Much appreciated.

Big thanks to Bill R. for a lot of these NOS parts.

https://i.ibb.co/JqgpHt2/IMG-1627.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/gZg6YpY/IMG-1626.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/M9S4M5X/IMG-1624.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/xzQrmms/IMG-1625.jpg

[Bernhard]

The 12 bolt axle tubes appear to have been tack welded to the housing at some point.
Very cool build thanks for sharing.

[rlw68]

D&R has the tilt steering column...

https://www.drclassic.com/catalog/Camaro/RareParts/Z50138

.

[NorCam]

Thanks Rob. Looked at that one yesterday and did call D&R to inquire. Turns out to be a generic rebuild type. The guy on the phone kept describing it like this "well, we like to call it an OE type column for 69-74 cars". That call ended fairly quickly. lol Also checked with Jimmy at HBC and they use a similar column from a typical rebuilder service, and theirs had a locking ring with no cover at all. Good news is that I may have found a correct one and will have some more details on that after the weekend. I did locate a nice Rosewood wheel and have a couple coals in the fire with the hunt for some deluxe belts going on too.

Looks like a plan is coming together now!

[NorCam]

As an update, I think I'm close to deciding on some new interior fabrics being ordered from SMS and rebuilding the front buckets using their vinyl and HT fabric. Very close color match and good quality materials. Once I've cleaned the rear seat covers I'll have a better idea of everything and will decide exactly how much material will be ordered and what will need to be recovered.

https://i.ibb.co/QF3mc13/C-Option-SMS.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/p14DtRN/A-Option-SMS.jpg

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

SMS!!!

Great material. (Full stop)

Ryan W31

[NorCam]

Just spent the last 4 hours writing a long but informed letter to the original owner of the Yellow Z/28. A Mr. Paul Gluck who's son I spoke with earlier tonight. He asked me to write his father who has some fond memories of the Z/28 and share with him the plans and known history of the car. I can imagine the surprise when his son told him I reached out to talk about the car. His son told me that it was thought the car was totaled by the guy who bought it from him back in 74. It was then said that as soon as the second owner got the car, he pulled the 302 and dropped a built 327 into the car and immediately blew it up badly. Knowing what I know of the car now, this is when the clutch exploded and the damage to the front tunnel and firewall happened?

I wrote a 4 page letter to Paul this evening, shared a few pictures and told him of my plans for the complete restoration of the car. I also shared a link to this forum and hope he will someday chime in to say hello and share an anecdote or two of his memories with the car. He was in fact a Jet Engine Mechanic with the USAF stationed out of Minot in 1969 and later returned to Texas where he has lived all of his life. I was told he loved to drag race the Yellow Z back in the day, and knowing the 302 was later pulled from the car, perhaps there is a chance I can back trace that motor and maybe reunite it with the car at some point? I'm sure he'll be surprised when he see's the length of what I wrote tonight, but wanted to bring him up to speed with what I have now learned about his old car. It's great that the original bill of sale accompanied the car back in the day, for if it wasn't for that being found with a former owner this past week, I may never have known who the original owner was, or managed to make a connection.

Respecting his privacy, I'll be sure to ask if he's OK with me posting a little of what I come to learn about his early days with the car. So cool to have connected the dots, and hoping he chimes in here to say hello and share a story or two of his own.

Feeling really stoked here tonight!

[NorCam]

In other news, I found a few more of the missing pieces needed for the restoration. This includes parts now known to be on the car when delivered, but missing when the car was purchased. Knowing it went through a number of people throughout the 80's and into the 90's, it's assumed some of the former owners swapped in some parts and took some unique pieces to further their other endeavors.

Thanks to other members of this fine venue, this weekend I managed to secure an original tilt column, Rosewood steering wheel, completed a full set of deluxe original seat belts and found a few more unique NOS parts for this 69 Z. I also stripped the 12 bolt diff today and it will now start being rebuilt this week. It still has 373 gears in it, but looks like someone changed them out for a set dated 5 of 70. The back cover also showed some signs of a ring gear bolt being chewed up and mulled between the ring gear and the cover at one point. I'll go through the carrier and the gears while it's being restored to ensure it was rebuilt after the fact. It all looks good at this point.

https://i.ibb.co/qMc1qWQ/IMG-1696.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/ckG6wY9/IMG-1671.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/g6w7ZPL/IMG-1699.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/7kzK7rp/116574339-727141601414181-1909703088836680285-n.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/tDNrHzL/116213691-287023599251693-1322613004286147130-n.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/hYVjKS6/116188044-626021434698959-1538914094895260477-n.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/QMQ9J3K/IMG-0798.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/CmtQKSG/IMG-0797.jpg

[Z28Project]

As if the car and the parts you're gathering isn't cool enough, all of this connection back to the original owner is really over the top!! Unbelievable! Congrats!

[Zedder]

That is awesome! That last name, Gluck, rings a bell with me for some reason?

[1967Z28]

Nice story and great research on the past history. Looking forward to your further progress.

[X66 714]

I see the pattern on the black/white seat cover is more like "B" from SMS where the yellow on your covers match "A". My yellow matches "B"....Joe

[NorCam]

The B sample from SMS is a straight vinyl product with a stamped or colored (if you will) pattern. It's really cheap feeling and I could not imaging someone using a stamped vinyl to portray a fabric finish. The SMS fabric (A) is almost 2x the thickness of the Al Knoch material and the color is actually spot on when compared with any virgin material color such as in the folds and in behind the buttons.

In direct sunlight it looks brighter when held up to the fabric, but one is old and dirty while the other is new so it's not a fair comparison. Once held up against the button hole (Pic 3 centered between my middle and index finger ) it really is an excellent color match. I'm going to order some material from SMS tomorrow and completely rebuild both sets of seats and the rear side panels in their yellow vinyl (C).

https://i.ibb.co/zxbh9NL/A-Option-SMS.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/cvnhWnF/In-Sunlight.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/KKkyhqx/VS-Button-Fold-Colors.jpg

[NorCam]

Covid has created some delays in being able to get some parts picked up and shipped across the Can/US border, but I finally got these little gems into my possession thanks in large part to Bergy. The kit includes most of the parts required to plumb a complete LTC option back into the yellow Z and will become one of my focus attempts to complete it as per the factory instructions supplied. Being that I have now learned of (2) Cdn Copo's and at least (1) US Copo having had the LTC option, I would say this Daytona Yellow Z/28 was in pretty good company with regards to such a unique option being factory installed. I received the parts complete with a case of NOS refill cartridges. Simply outstanding I must say!!!

Thank you Bruce!!! :beers:

https://i.ibb.co/t2QDvPC/IMG-1717.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/Bf2Xj82/IMG-1719.jpg

[NorCam]

I'll need to restore the canisters and create a couple new labels for them but that's easy enough with my son being the graphics designer. Most of the hoses and the clips are here c/w the dash mounted switch. Once the canisters are fully restored and installed, I will delve into the schematics to ensure it's all plumbed into the engine bay as per factory spec. The display case of cartridges will only be used to accompany the car for some shows when it's finished up.


https://i.ibb.co/pdN96c0/IMG-0859.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/QCFm8SL/IMG-0866.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/G0gKGCM/IMG-0867.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/VYNJx7Z/Liquid-tire-chain.jpg

[NorCam]

Went out to cut some grass and by the time I came back in, my son had recreated the artwork for the cannister decals. One is new style, and one he created to have a vintage or aged look. I like it.

https://i.ibb.co/K7Fdq4z/AC-LTC-Logo-Old-Style.png old vs new https://i.ibb.co/1X7Hbzx/AC-LTC-Logo-New-Style.png

[ZLP955]

Great job by your son, looks awesome. Was that scanned from the photo and then adjusted to compensate for angle?

[NorCam]

I found another image of a canister with a clear looking label and he imported it into photoshop studio to do his thing with it. I think he cleaned up he logo and reset the text to get the resolution needed for print. He also got the color where it should be to match the original color used on the dispenser cans.

[Z28Project]

Nice to have the younger folks around that can do that stuff!

[NorCam]

Nice to have the younger folks around that can do that stuff!

Chip off the old block this one is. I taught him a little about graphics and image editing and then he took off with it, He's top in his school with digital media and has now become a whole lot better than I've ever been. Also glad he has taken to cars as he has. My other boy has zero interest in cars but sure love trains, planes and engineering.

[ZLP955]

Sorry if I missed it in any recent updates, but getting a vibe you're now doing a stock restoration as-delivered, or are you still targeting a day 2 theme?

[NorCam]

Sorry if I missed it in any recent updates, but getting a vibe you're now doing a stock restoration as-delivered, or are you still targeting a day 2 theme?

No Sir Tim.

Day 2 is still the plan but with an emphasis on the car returning to bone stock should the original motor be found. It may still be out there since it was pulled in '74. For now, it's getting the solid roller small block, M23 transmission and some rear end upgrades. It'll be jacked on the rear with 50's, have a set of pie crusts up front, receive a host of sun gauges including a pair on the cowl, a vintage ignition, vintage Hurst line loc, vintage rear air lift, vintage slappers and whatever else I can find between now and when it's completed.

I'll chase the second/third owner and the original motor if I can find out where that was and keep a glimmer of hope the motor may still be sitting somewhere. The same goes for the transmission from the car. If either of them are found, they may be reunited down the road. For that reason, most of the car is being restored to look original and that includes the body and interior. Should look like a well optioned Z/28 on steroids, but easily returned to stock if needed.

[Z28Project]

The way things have gone so far on this one, wouldn't be surprised if the original engine shows up in your driveway at some point. :)

[Jonesy]

Loved this car when I saw it for sale. My favorite color combo.
Looks like a great timeline of events that have been happening.
Original invoice and pics of it. Just amazing!!

[Chuck_Burg]

Seems like this car has been a day 2 car forever.... someone blew up a clutch and ravaged the tunnel with a high strung 327 for cryin out loud. There are so many stock z28s out there. When is the last time you saw a perfect day 2 Z?

[NorCam]

Seems like this car has been a day 2 car forever.... someone blew up a clutch and ravaged the tunnel with a high strung 327 for cryin out loud. There are so many stock z28s out there. When is the last time you saw a perfect day 2 Z?

OMG you couldn't be more dialed in on that Chuck. What is better is that I decided weeks ago to look for original 8.5" Ansens, TT's or Fentons for the back of this car, and something narrow for the fronts. While the hunt for some nice magesium or aluminum rims continues, Paul Gluck (original owner) sends me this photo about an hour ago.

This is Paul standing in front of the car back in 1970 after he installed a set of Ansens on the Z. How ironic is that? I mean it's like it is supposed to happen this way. Same exact look I was shooting for and great to know it was originally that way back in the day. I was just showing this to my wife and commented on the t-shirt being Edelbrock with some classic decals in the quarter window, and my wife said...love the pants too! Looks like Goodyear Polyglass with L60's on the rear?

Totally cool picture and hoping Paul finds more like this.

https://i.ibb.co/3y5WZmK/Gluck-1970.jpg
Photo courtesy of Paul Gluck. Original owner 1969 - 1974

[X66 714]

Those pants were very stylish then. Big bells were better. You have to find some :) I'll look in my dad's closet....Joe

[Zedder]

Nice! I’d do it exactly like that and then get pants and shirts like that for you and the previous owner and take some pics! ��

[Chuck_Burg]

You're going to need an Edelbrock Tarantula intake to match the shirt... Paul is awesome! Those Polyglas GTs look great on that car. Did he have air shocks?

[NorCam]

You're going to need an Edelbrock Tarantula intake to match the shirt... Paul is awesome! Those Polyglas GTs look great on that car. Did he have air shocks?

I'm looking for another TM1 (tarantula) intake right now. I had one lined up but the guy has been slow and getting back to me on it. Needless to say if he fails to deliver I'll find one elsewhere! I ran one on the little day 2 Nova and it was a great intake for a small block.

Paul told me he raised the front end up 3" and remembers the back rims and tires were wider and they were mounted on 8.5" Ansen's. I can only assume he had air shocks on the back. Here's something funny he just shared in a text just a few minutes ago.

I traded the car in 1974 to McDavid Pontiac in Fort Worth when my wife told me she wasn't going through another pregnancy in Texas without air conditioning. She drove the car to work everyday, and he wound up trading in the Z on a 74 Grand Prix. Sad Day he said!

[NorCam]

Here's another funny one. In 92 I built this solid lifter 500hp Z/28. Daytona yellow (stripes weren't done right) and I drove it to work every day. My winter beater is seen just off to the right...and get this, it WAS a 74 Grand Prix. What are the odds?

Paul and I are 20 years and 2500 miles apart, but there's only 2 degrees of separation!

https://i.ibb.co/gVkmbgt/Yellow-Z-1992.jpg

[Chuck_Burg]

The stories just keep getting better and better, I think it was meant to be! I loved the Day 2 Nova.... I would've loved to have it but I already had the 67 and the parts hoard to go with it.

[ZLP955]

Meant to be......yes, spot on. This one's a keeper!

[NorCam]

Meant to be......yes, spot on. This one's a keeper!

Yes Indeed. Planning for this one to be the keeper. :burnout:

[rlw68]

This is Paul standing in front of the car back in 1970 after he installed a set of Ansens on the Z. How ironic is that? I mean it's like it is supposed to happen this way. Same exact look I was shooting for and great to know it was originally that way back in the day. I was just showing this to my wife and commented on the t-shirt being Edelbrock with some classic decals in the quarter window, and my wife said...love the pants too! Looks like Goodyear Polyglass with L60's on the rear?


Hey Graeme, got our Day 2 plaid pants on also ! (Sep 1970) :biggthumpup:


171199

[dboles]

I don't think I would go with a Tarantula manifold. It will kill any torque that the 302 has left. I had a '68 Z from '71 to '73. I made this mistake. Even with 4:10 gears it was terrible to drive in stop and go traffic. I ended up putting an Offenhauser dual port 360 on the car to get better driveability.

[NorCam]

No worries at all...and just for the record, this car will not be running a 302. :no:

It gets a solid roller build with an M23 trans. Inside that case is where the magic starts to happen. :3gears:

Fc96qcGUMxc

[napa68]

I double dog dare ya Graeme to show up for MCACN cocktails in those pants!

[Chuck_Burg]

There’s plenty of hipster thrift shops here in Long Beach selling vintage clothing. Day 2 plaid pants probably “worth” a couple hundred bucks today haha:naughty:

[NorCam]

You guys are funny! :haha: But it ain't happening!

[rlw68]

There’s plenty of hipster thrift shops here in Long Beach selling vintage clothing. Day 2 plaid pants probably “worth” a couple hundred bucks today haha:naughty:


Yep, these are plaid 'bell bottom' pants. Notice the guys also have colors that go with the cars. I'll do it if Graeme will...

:rolleyes2:

[NorCam]

My wife found me a pair on Amazon and said "You gotta do this when the car is finished". I'd want the hat to go with it. :grin:

https://i.ibb.co/NN6S3Nd/Yellow-Golf.jpg

[tom406]

You can't NOT wear that at MCACN when you go. A nice bright white T with yellow Auto Meter Logo would set it off:)

[NorCam]

This would be the T-shirt...

https://th.bing.com/th/id/OIP.JX13PO7Rp00YvBgC7FbmlAHaC8?w=339&h=139&c=7&o=5&dpr=1.5&pid=1.7

[Chuck_Burg]

My wife found me a pair on Amazon and said "You gotta do this when the car is finished". I'd want the hat to go with it. :grin:

https://i.ibb.co/NN6S3Nd/Yellow-Golf.jpg

Sorry Graeme, reproduction Day 2 pants from Amazon won't cut it. Just send me your waist size and I'll pick some up for you down here. You can get them tailored to your fit :grin:

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

The wife of the owner of a Dale COPO Camaro in barn finds at MCACN had an orange houndstooth skirt made to match the interior of their car.

Her name was Candi, his name has slipped my mind.... certain names seem to stick... :-)

Ryan W31

[NorCam]

The wife of the owner of a Dale COPO Camaro in barn finds at MCACN had an orange houndstooth skirt made to match the interior of their car.

Her name was Candi, his name has slipped my mind.... certain names seem to stick... :-)

Ryan W31

Bahaha...yeah right.

[NorCam]

Ryan...I believe you remembered her name correctly. :biggthumpup:

http://st.hotrod.com/uploads/sites/21/2015/12/12-1969-chevrolet-camaro-copo-kandy-olinger.jpg

[William]

Chad Slocum aka carnut4life.

[carnut4life]

The wife of the owner of a Dale COPO Camaro in barn finds at MCACN had an orange houndstooth skirt made to match the interior of their car.

Her name was Candi, his name has slipped my mind.... certain names seem to stick... :-)

Ryan W31

Yeah, that was me Ryan. For some reason everyone remembers Kandy's name and forgets mine..lol.. Spent a couple hours dying her skirt Thursday night before the show but it still wasn't orange enough for my taste.

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

Yeah, that was me Ryan. For some reason everyone remembers Kandy's name and forgets mine..lol.. Spent a couple hours dying her skirt Thursday night before the show but it still wasn't orange enough for my taste.

It was great meeting you guys at MCACN!!!!

Ryan W31

[NorCam]

MCACN will need to host a special display next year.

Gathering of the plaid.

All cars with houndstooth interiors must have an owner present with matching plaid trousers or a skirt. (lol)

[carnut4life]

It was great meeting you guys at MCACN!!!!

Ryan W31

It was great meeting you too Ryan. We met so many nice folks at MCACN that year, probably the highlight of my car life!

[carnut4life]

MCACN will need to host a special display next year.

Gathering of the plaid.

All cars with houndstooth interiors must have an owner present with matching plaid trousers or a skirt. (lol)

That's a great idea Graeme, unfortunately we don't own the orange COPO anymore, its back up in Wisconsin now. Probably wouldn't have to twist Kandy's arm very hard to get her to wear a yellow hounds tooth skirt to the show this year though..lol..

[NorCam]

Well...here's to hoping this Covid virus is put to bed by next year as I doubt I'll be travelling to MCACN in 2020. Borders are still closed and at this point there is talk about both sides remaining closed until year end.

In other news, I also received the original dealer invoice for the car along with some other cool documents and pictures this week. Here are a couple scans of some photo's Robin took about 40 years ago. The front left fender extension has a crease in it and I'm guessing the front corner got tweaked and maybe bent the original Endura bumper because it was gone prior to Robin owning the car. The grill was also changed out to black for whatever reason? The chrome bumper still has a GM label showing on the inside

https://i.ibb.co/nnNJ0Zg/Robin-2-800.jpg
Photo courtesy of Robin Conklin - Owner 1980-1984

https://i.ibb.co/SsZtP8R/Robin-3-800.jpg
Photo courtesy of Robin Conklin - Owner 1980-1984

[NorCam]

Received a couple of important pieces needed for the restoration today. Big thanks to Eddie E. for the tilt column, and Jeff M. for the used yellow bumper. Both pieces will now be restored before being installed into the car when it's ready. Interior fabric shipped today also. Woohoo!

https://i.ibb.co/wS3358C/IMG-1766.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/7r1GmYn/IMG-1770.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/ZY5WzT5/IMG-1767.jpg

[NorCam]

Being that this car came to me in project form, one of the first things I did was to perform an audit of all the loose parts to see what was useable, what wouldn't be and what was missing. It didn't take long to notice the yellow wind lace moldings were missing in action and that I could use some better interior trim pieces to restore along with the seats. I reached out to Joe (X66 714) who's restored his Yellow on Yellow SS before and asked if he could share any insights...or if he might have some spare parts through his years of owning a yellow interior car. He graciously responded by sharing a wealth of knowledge on yellow interiors, and also told me that he had some spare parts he could share including yellow wind lace moldings, deluxe door pulls and door handle cups. Parts are now on the way and these pieces will be thoroughly cleaned and dyed to match the rest of the restored interior during the coming months.

Big thanks to Joe I. for the yellow trim parts and sharing his knowledge of 714 interiors. :biggthumpup:

https://i.ibb.co/qJcwRtR/Yellow-2.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/rcfH7jN/Yellow-4.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/v4BKs2q/Yellow-6.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/cc41HSr/Yellow-9.jpg

[NorCam]

Finally got the shop cleaned up today and chained up a couple of lifting joists from the attic. With the car suspended I got the new frame jig mounted under the car and elevated things to a nice working height. Still have a few things left to do and need to order some 1/2" hardware tomorrow so it's bolted up tight and ready to roll out to the body shop in early September. Just waiting on an AMK fastener kit and a few minor parts to arrive and it goes for a 90 day stint in the shop before it comes out looking completely different.

https://i.ibb.co/pRGvQhf/IMG-1863.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/vJ9j1X7/IMG-1864.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/bXR6mDt/IMG-1865.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/D4pQk59/IMG-1867.jpg

[ZLP955]

Good progress! Looks like you're planning to R&R a fair bit of the firewall/tunnel junction, was that whole area damaged from the clutch explosion?
If you get a chance to look during disassembly, could you confirm if the firewall oil line grommet pictured above has any identifying numbers on it? Thanks!

[Dave Rifkin]

Looks like someone changed out the rear spoiler at some point. In the photos you received from Robin, the car appears to have the narrow spoiler. Now it looks to have the full width version.

[NorCam]

Looks like someone changed out the rear spoiler at some point. In the photos you received from Robin, the car appears to have the narrow spoiler. Now it looks to have the full width version.

Good eye Dave. I believe the car had a narrow spoiler up until the mid 80's when Robin crashed into his buddies car after a street race. Apparently after the run, he pulled in behind his buddy who then nailed the brakes when a car pulled out in front of them. His buddy's car submarined and Robin swerved right to take his friends bumper down the left side of the Z/28. Apparently his buddies right mirror broke off as he side swiped his car in the process and the mirror was wedged between the deck lid and the spoiler. Needless to say it broke the spoiler was later replaced with one from another car. If only these cars could talk, because this one sure had some stories to be told.

[NorCam]

Good progress! Looks like you're planning to R&R a fair bit of the firewall/tunnel junction, was that whole area damaged from the clutch explosion?
If you get a chance to look during disassembly, could you confirm if the firewall oil line grommet pictured above has any identifying numbers on it? Thanks!

I'll check the grommet Tim. Yes, that section outlined in chalk is the area that was grafted in by former owner William Young back in 1988. The damage from the clutch explosion was not fixed until then and that entire section will now be repaired properly.

[ZLP955]

Thanks!

[rlw68]

Hey Graeme, with our VINs being so close it might be intersting to compare the stamp on the inside LH rear quarter...

172005

172003

[NorCam]

Rob, I need to hit it with some thinner and get the numbers more readable but it appears we have the same date as it's K08 L8573 (last looks like could be a 9)

https://i.ibb.co/m02qyfn/IMG-1871.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/zFgX414/IMG-1872.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/jgnhg5J/IMG-1879.jpg

Tim...the Oil line grommet has a 42 and some other character I cannot read clearly? CV perhaps?

[ZLP955]

Thanks, appreciate that detail! :biggthumpup:

[ZLP955]

Rob/Graeme, whereabouts inside the quarter panel is that stamping?

[NorCam]

Stamped vertically on the inside fender return behind the wheel opening on the drivers side. You can see it here in this picture. Might have to clean some crud away but original returns are stamped with the plant code and an assembly date. Rob taught me about this one as well and a couple others found on original floors.

https://i.ibb.co/ySJSJJG/Floors-2.jpg

[rlw68]

Rob, I need to hit it with some thinner and get the numbers more readable but it appears we have the same date as it's K08 L8573 (last looks like could be a 9)

Thanks for checking this. The K08 is the date but I have no idea what the L8573 might be. Interesting though, it appears to be same number on both cars.

[X66 714]

Graeme. That panel is considered the trunk drop. I think I saw some of those numbers on mine....Joe

[NorCam]

I had a little text session with the original owner earlier today. I asked him the following questions and here is how he answered them;

Paul, did you happen to keep the blue warranty booklet with the metal protect-o-plate that was attached to the inside of it?

Answer: Sorry Graeme. All that stuff was in the glove box when it was traded.

I'm also wondering if you knew who the second owner was? I am curious if that 302 was ever saved when it was pulled out?

Answer: I can't recall the name but he worked for the maintenance dept. of Haltom City, Texas in 74 to 75 while I was working there as a Police Officer. That's when he told me that he blew up the motor and put in the 327. The next time we talked he told me he wrecked the car and it was totaled? The car was in pristine condition when I traded it in. I got a little pissed at him for being so irresponsible and I never talked to him again. When I traded it, the car had 456 Zoom Gears, a 4500lb Zoom Clutch, Hooker Headers, and Lakewood Lift Bars.

Paul went on to say...About 1972 my wife came home from work one day and the motor was missing. (Broken Valve Spring) I pulled the head to check the cylinder and it was OK, so I then decided to pull the motor and go through it. The motor was then totally blueprinted. My wife continued to drive it to work every day and we would bracket race the car on weekends. It was in top shape when we traded it in 74! :frown::crazy:

Wow! Sounds like you really had some fun with it back then. Do you recall ET's with the car?

Answer: Stock 14:30's about 93 mph. After the rebuild with gears and headers 12:80 at about 118 to 120 mph. That was shifting into 4th gear just before the traps at 7000 rpm. I really needed 513 gears but that was a little much for the street. My wife had to get used to it, she thought it needed another gear! :naughty:

I then sent Paul a picture of the balanced and blueprinted small block that's going into the car when the body is finished up and painted this off season. The response was quick!

Paul's reply: Beautiful. I want to drive it. Maybe I'll take a trip to Calgary when you get it done. Further conversation ensued and he was invited up to visit when it's finished. He said he'll be putting it on his bucket list! :3gears:

[ZLP955]

Great info from the previous owner!
Thanks for confirming stamp location, I see it now on the trunk drop-off, couldn't figure out where it'd be on the quarter from Rob's initial picture. Just checked my car, and I see something stamped in that location on both trunk drop-offs. Need to clean the area up before I can read them, but yet another interesting detail learned on these cars!

[NorCam]

Had a hard time getting 5 gallon buckets of Evapo-Rust up here in the Canada so I ordered some up through Fastenal. Now that they have arrived, I can start cleaning up all the bit and pieces that have any light corrosion or any minor rust. The first item to start with are the V75 liquid tire chain dispensers. They were tired looking originals that I knew I could clean up, and after a quick 12 hour dunk in an old tub of evapo-rust, they are already look 5x better.

I've cleaned them up and wiped them down now. Next I will soak them for 24 hours in a fresh pail of this miracle juice before adding a couple new AC Delco labels to the old lids. These are going to look great when they are done and have just the right patina now. Can't wait to have the entire system installed in the car. Here are some progress pics of the cannister clean up.

BEFORE CLEANING
https://i.ibb.co/G0gKGCM/IMG-0867.jpg

And After a quick soak in Evapo-Rust
https://i.ibb.co/pQ83WdV/IMG-2012.jpg

I love this stuff!
https://i.ibb.co/S3C3q4n/IMG-2013.jpg

More when the cannisters come out of a 24 hour soak in the new batch. Should be good to go after a rinse down with a wipe.

[NorCam]

Still hunting down more parts while keeping an eye out for more interesting Day 2 stuff...but can't afford take my foot off the gas here in the interim. Today's project is cleaning up some more seat belts that arrived to complete the deluxe set, and finishing up on the LTC dispensers. This one is almost done while the other is out getting a couple of Tig welds on the lower tabs. Next up I'll print two new labels for the dispensers and they are good to go.

https://i.ibb.co/QbKNcSZ/IMG-2045.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/x2Hp11T/IMG-2044.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/kJSzBq0/IMG-2043.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/8rSSNN1/IMG-2051.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/X8C5Fdv/IMG-2050.jpg

[SuperNovaSS]

Looking great!

Jason

[NorCam]

The first of two V75 LTC Dispensers is done. Now to figure out a way to load these aerosol cans up with bleach. :beers:

https://i.ibb.co/8bHzH4G/IMG-2074.jpg

[NorCam]

Finally onto the front brakes, sub-frame and the restoration of the brake system and suspension. Mike Gibbons will be restoring the dust shields, brackets, booster and master cylinder while I work to restore the front rotors, calipers, sub frame and suspension. After soaking the rear springs in Evapo-rust over the past week they are now looking really good. Next up I will press new bushings into them and they will be ready to use once again.

The 12 bolt housing is also being rebuilt and restored right now. I have chosen to leave the housing alone and plan to restore it to stock. If I decide to run slicks or take it to the track later, I will swap the restored diff for a prebuilt Moser Muscle Pak unit. For now I will stick to restoring all the original parts that came with the car and make as much of it factory restored as possible. The rest will be Day 2 of course.

https://i.ibb.co/2MRsyR8/IMG-2282.jpg
Booster and Valving off to Mike Gibbons for restoral and plating services.

https://i.ibb.co/b1htpHY/IMG-2297.jpg
Original front rotors to be mic'd and ground if within spec. They will be fully restored if they're OK to use.

https://i.ibb.co/VJgM9nh/IMG-2304.jpg
Front calipers will be rebuilt and look to have had brand new pads installed back in the 80's. These will be fully detailed and still have the dust caps.

https://i.ibb.co/nPh9dCJ/IMG-2301.jpg
I will restored all of the front steering and will detail it to the nines. The power steering box was added by a previous owner and will stay.

https://i.ibb.co/6nCv9z0/IMG-2291.jpg
Here are the rear springs after being cleaned up in Evapo-rust. New bushings will arrive this week and these will be good to go.

https://i.ibb.co/G5DZ2CK/IMG-2305.jpg
Sub frame before restoral. I will split the ball joints later today and plan rebuild the front A arms and repaint everything.

[X66 714]

Everything is looking good.
That's the late issue subframe. I thought they came out much later in the year...Joe

[NorCam]

That's what was in the car Joe? I didn't know there were different issue sub-frames until now? What's different about them?

Back in the late 80's someone started to restore the car and everything on this subframe has been redone at one point. It's been repainted, had new control arm bushings installed, new ball joints and the subframe bushings were redone. The springs were changed to raise the car up when the the original owner had it back in the day, and Robin told me they cut them down in the 80's when he had it. Those springs are still in it today and I am changing those out for a set of Moog's with stock Z/28 ride height. Once the brakes are totally redone, it will all go back together, but with a fresh coat of paint.

When I got the car I looked at the front engine frame mounts which were different (appear taller) than the Z/28 mounts. The part numbers are GM part# 3955183 & 3980938 which are regular small block and were likely changed when the second owner installed the 327 back in 74. I plan to swap those out for the correct 3945507 and 3945508 frame mounts before it goes back together. It still has the original (over sprayed) Endura Bumper brackets on it but for sure those have been off the frame horns at one point and were not disturbed or repainted when the sub frame was freshened or painted.

[rlw68]

I didn't know there were different issue sub-frames until now? What's different about them?

Hey Graeme, here's my frame for comparison. Appear to be the same?

172947

[NorCam]

Holes are different in a couple places Rob?

On my drivers frame horn, one hole is elongated. The first cross member has 2 holes on the right side that your doesn't have, and the pass side cross member has three holes above the frame mount where mine only has 2. I'm sure there's more to be learned but these are slightly different from what I can see in the images.

[X66 714]

The oval hole was used later because of the introduction of the carbon canister for the next year Nova from what I understood. I will see if I can do some research...Joe

[NorCam]

I just looked at pics of my 70 Nova sub frame and it has the same elongated slot, and the 2 holes on the drivers side front cross member which were used to mount a clamp for the pollution lines that went to the charcoal cannister.

Maybe the sub frame was swapped out for a better one as was often done when someone caved in the front K member with a floor jack or when the rear bushing holes were rotted out. In either case, it makes no difference to me and the one that was in there is the one that's being used. Picked up my buddies spring compressor today and will remove the springs and the control arms tomorrow.

[R68GTO]

The oval hole was used later because of the introduction of the carbon canister for the next year Nova from what I understood. I will see if I can do some research...Joe

My 09D (1969) frame has the elongated hole.

[X66 714]

I just read a thread on CRG & it had indicated that probably sometime in Aug 1969 for the oval hole. That would make since as Chevrolet was back to making 1969 Camaros again instead of the 1970 Camaro.
Graeme. I agree. Use what you have....Joe

[NorCam]

As I have often said, if only these cars could talk?

In the early 90's this car moved as a roller between a few car guys who were known for bartering first gen cars and parts. Obviously someone back in the day started to restore it, but never got further than the front clip. They actually did a decent job on the subframe as all the front suspension and brakes were previously redone before the subframe was painted. It will now make for an easy clean up and I'm not planning to over restore or powder coat any of it. Just a good scuff followed with an epoxy paint and it'll be good to go.

Once I get the front springs out, I'll pull the calipers apart to see what they look like inside. I'll then rebuild and detail the calipers while the other parts are out for plating. I've only got a few weeks left to get any painting done so I gotta stay on it now. Fall is upon us here and the seasons are changing quickly in the great white north. Yesterday I was riding my Harley and it was 85 degrees. This morning it's 50 degrees and they are calling for a dusting of snow here tommorrow as a storm is coming down.

You guys in the desert have it all somedays. :flag:

[big gear head]

We have you up north with the cold weather and Dave in Texas where it's too hot to paint. Extremes!

[NorCam]

It's cool and overcast here today, but that's keeping me in the shop where more work will get done. Checked the rotors this morning and they are measuring 9.90 and 1.020. Good thing is that I have another pair of nice takeoffs that measure 1.010 and 1.030 that I can use. They are now off for a soak in the Evapo-rust tank and should come out looking like new before being re-used.

https://i.ibb.co/Hd47nWm/IMG-2322.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/k5cpW0g/IMG-2323.jpg

[NorCam]

More of the mundane stuff while I restore the front brakes and rebuild the suspension. All of this has to be done ahead of the more exciting Day II parts as the car needs to become a roller again sometime before year end. Here are some more pics for those who like the original stuff being re-used, and a couple neat paint daub pics on the front calipers. Also seen here is a restamped build date for one of the calipers. I have not seen them restamped before but I'm sure it happened when parts sat around.

The one caliper was cast in July and assembly stamped 227, but must have sat around for months before being picked up for use since it was restamped 049 atop the 227. The other caliper was stamped 32 for an assembly date and was cast 361. Now that all of the rust has been removed, time to paint them up, install new o-rings & seals and lightly face/machine the rotors. All factory brakes for this car and no repro parts being used other than the soft lines.

https://i.ibb.co/YTsN1L0/IMG-2344.jpg
Ready for a light surfacing.

https://i.ibb.co/khTbZHB/IMG-2361.jpg
Cleaned up in Evapo-rust

https://i.ibb.co/FVR6BBK/IMG-2355.jpg
Dust shields and caliper brackets are now going out for plating.

https://i.ibb.co/qMjn5Qj/IMG-2345.jpg
This caliper had an nice daub or orange paint and both dust caps on the bleeders.

https://i.ibb.co/3T2Vq11/IMG-2347.jpg
It was stamped 32 for an assembly code and was cast 361st day

https://i.ibb.co/qCqgsrz/IMG-2349.jpg
This one was cast 207 and must have sat deep in the pile as it wasn't used until February...

https://i.ibb.co/GMvkB9D/IMG-2350.jpg
It was first stamped 227 as it appears, and was then restamped 049 by the looks of its assembly stamp?

[NorCam]

While cleaning up the other parts, I also decided to restore a spare pair of low mile calipers I had sitting here as spares. They turned out to be pretty clean as the pistons show. Earlier today I then got around to pulling the front springs out and split the ball joints. Now I will tear down the control arms before painting them...and may install new hardware if I can find some nice original stuff.


https://i.ibb.co/0MCyg41/IMG-2356.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/Cb28F98/IMG-2363.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/M60VMxH/IMG-2367.jpg

[NorCam]

It's all blown apart here. Tomorrow I will get the bushings pressed out and I guess I might as well media blast it and have everything powder coated and do it right. (lol)

https://i.ibb.co/SsCBR99/IMG-2378.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/WWwRsRt/IMG-2376.jpg

[rlw68]

The one caliper was cast in July and assembly stamped 227, but must have sat around for months before being picked up for use since it was restamped 049 atop the 227. The other caliper was stamped 32 for an assembly date and was cast 361.

It was first stamped 227 as it appears, and was then restamped 049 by the looks of its assembly stamp?

This is too cool !!! My calipers are RH casting# 204 with date restamped 48?, and LH casting# 355 date stamped 32. I thought one got replaced but maybe not now, given how close the build day is for our two cars.

:hmmm:

[NorCam]

This is too cool !!! My calipers are RH casting# 204 with date restamped 48?, and LH casting# 355 date stamped 32. I thought one got replaced but maybe not now, given how close the build day is for our two cars.

:hmmm:

It's uncanny the similarities between these 2 cars built within a day of each other Rob. It's like the same batch of parts were being picked over by the same guys on the same lines, but a shift apart from each other. I take it there must have been a run of calipers dug out and re-stamped that particular week where they used whatever was left in old inventory? Maybe they ran short on production or they deliberately cleared out old stock. Cool to know for sure.

[L78M22Rag]

That is some cool documentation of component dating right there! Thanks for sharing all your discoveries.

[napa68]

Looks great Graeme!

[NorCam]

Thanks Tim.

Just popped out to see my bodyman / painter today and the plan is to get the car out to him next week. I have a couple options for the way the bodywork and paint can be handled, but that also determines the timeline in which it will be done. I have some decisions to make before the car is brought to him next week. The plan is to polish a couple spots on the original paint, and custom tint a match of the Daytona Yellow. He is 73 years old now and still going hard.

https://i.ibb.co/9g48Cv6/IMG-2445.jpg

[NorCam]

Another Yenko member knew I was hunting for more 714 Yellow Houndstooth seats and found me another excellent pair of front buckets which can be used to salvage materials including a nice pair of headrests and hinge covers that can be cleaned up and died as required. These are on the way up to me right now and the cores look better than the ones that came in the car. Today I'll get the rest of the original tinted glass pulled out of the car and cleaned up. The dates are all matching but I'll need to order a tinted windshield with similar LOF date codes.

https://i.ibb.co/MCY4VrL/Yellow-Buckets.jpghttps://i.ibb.co/CQ3N6V5/Yellow-714-Seats.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/YLf8CVM/Yellow-Headrests.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/7g7J6xt/Yellow-Hinge-Covers.jpg

[Flying Undertaker]

[QUOTE=NorCam;1507967]Probably not a bad idea Mike. Was going to rebuild it and beef it up, but building a new Moser diff is so much more in line with what this car actually needs. Planning on a 9K screamer for it in the future so I might as well build the diff I am going to need down the road.

I'll figure out what to do with this one later and might offer it up locally.[
/QUOTE]

My brother Joe races NHRA A/S with a 396 L78/L89 G-Force combo and was the record holder (9.88 E.T. at 135+ mph) from 2016-2018 when NHRA reset it to minimum. He uses the Moser 12 bolt rear end, originally designed by Kenny Thomas Racing Enterprises (KTRE), with 5:13 Pro-gears and a 2:91 first gear ratio and the rear end holds up beautifully. I highly recommend this rear end. Don.

[big gear head]

My brother Joe races NHRA A/S with a 396 L78/L89 G-Force combo and was the record holder (9.88 E.T. at 135+ mph) from 2016-2018 when NHRA reset it to minimum. He uses the Moser 12 bolt rear end, originally designed by Kenny Thomas Racing Enterprises (KTRE), with 5:13 Pro-gears and a 2:91 first gear ratio and the rear end holds up beautifully. I highly recommend this rear end. Don.

That's almost exactly the same combination that my friend Shane Smith runs in his A/S '69 Camaro, except I think he's using a Jerico. He was running a 427 until about 2 weeks ago. He bought the Moser housing from me when I was still a Moser dealer. I did all of the welding on the housing to add brackets and other stuff to it. He has his running in the very low 10s at the moment.

[NorCam]

Body is now 100% stripped and ready to take a quick trip for media blasting of the floors, the cowl top/opening, firewall and some of the jamb areas. The glass was all cleaned up after pulling it out and it's now ready to go back in at a later point. The A-Arms are also stripped and are booked in for media blasting and power coating along with the sub frame and the rad support. Making steady progress here.

https://i.ibb.co/4SzX6XX/IMG-2542.jpg
Both of the doors on this car are in excellent condition with no apparent rust.

https://i.ibb.co/y075N9Q/IMG-2540.jpg
Last look before it's media blasted and rushed off to the body shop.

https://i.ibb.co/RBfg35c/IMG-2555.jpg
These are off to the powder coaters next week as well.

https://i.ibb.co/TLBMcvS/IMG-2500.jpg
Tried to snap a shot inside the door and wound up with an imprompt selfie (lol)

[NorCam]

This car still has the original stripes visible in the trunk jambs along the bottom of the tulip panel so I documented those measurements today and then checked them against a good quality template kit that I bought a few years ago. Remarkably, they are spot on with each other and I will now use them for the top of the rear stripes. I also measured the front header panel and cowl panel so that the front stripes are spot on as well. Doing this so the stripes are correctly re-applied when it comes time.

https://i.ibb.co/r3qm9GM/IMG-2691.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/QrZ2BYw/IMG-2636.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/nBh90hX/IMG-2632.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/tcMtVZK/IMG-2626.jpg

[scuncio]

Great progress, cool to see these little details.

[SPEEDYB]

Nice

[NorCam]

Here's the original front cowl panel which I plan to reuse, and the original front header which I'd like to save as a wall hanger. It has a few dings along the front edge so I'm going to try and find an NOS one before the front clip is ready to mock up. If I can find a new one to go on the car, I will hang this one up.

https://i.ibb.co/Fhx9jsr/IMG-2723.jpg

I have a few more days before the body heads out so I've been staying busy as I rebuild the front calipers, the entire steering assembly and I've also been cleaning up all of the window regulators, glass channels and related door hardware. All of the window channels are going to look like brand new and it's all coming along real well.

https://i.ibb.co/PhQW3sw/IMG-2717.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/gwfDPvP/IMG-2719.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/pyKKtMJ/IMG-2722.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/nsFRm3L/IMG-2724.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/XJf60jq/IMG-2727.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/RYsbTQt/IMG-2728.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/PT0Nf3j/IMG-2729.jpg

[NorCam]

Car is out to be media blasted and then it's off to the bodyshop. The floors and firewall are being media stripped along with the jamb openings. From there the car will be getting some sheet metal repairs and a set of NOS quarters installed. At the same time, the front sub frame and related parts are being blasted and powder coated. Should start to look very different real soon.

https://i.ibb.co/99LvJpd/Rolling.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/g36kR9q/IMG-2812.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/Hz3pDpj/IMG-2813.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/th6szKc/IMG-2826-Copy.jpg

[NorCam]

In order to get my sub frame rebuilt in expedited fashion, I chose to have my caliper brackets and dust shields plated locally. Been a while since I've used this outfit but they turned out quite nice. Now to get my calipers painted up and detail to steering arms & drag link. It should all be ready to go back together in a week or two with a freshly coated sub frame.

https://i.ibb.co/68BCYn0/IMG-2856.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/P9B4PvT/IMG-2852.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/KLWK7j9/IMG-2853.jpg

[Chuck_Burg]

Coming along nice Graeme! I like how we can really see the patch a previous owner made for the tunnel caused by the KABOOM.

My car is stuck in body shop prison.... I didn't need to blast the car because there was hardly and rust at all meaning I'm not taking the frame out until after the car is painted. I can't even restore my frame until the car is painted. Deep breath... Hopefully not too much longer.

You may beat me :hmmm:

[NorCam]

Did some media blasting of the floors today and here's some of the progress so far. The good news...there are some areas of the floors that are really clean and can easily be saved.

https://i.ibb.co/FhyJRwr/001-Pass-Floor.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/GCX9mmk/003-rear-floor.jpg

The bad, is that it needs both rear floor pans and the drivers floor pan replaced. You can see all the pinholes showing light from the underside.

https://i.ibb.co/0DFgQHz/004-Underside.jpg

The ugly...is the clutch explosion repair that was sectioned into the lower cowl area back in the 80's. Not bad for a home grafted repair, but in need of some professional repair.

https://i.ibb.co/ZzwBrPM/IMG-2871.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/Vjvtkm8/IMG-2866.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/NNcYRs4/IMG-2865.jpg

[rlw68]

Did some media blasting of the floors today and here's some of the progress so far.



Nice! Will you try to preserve anything like the X crayon marks by the package tray?

:biggthumpup:

[NorCam]

The X 7 crayon marks were taped over and so was the trim tag. I can see some old crayon markings on the center of the firewall and will wait until the dust has cleared today to see what those letters were under the layers of paint.

The vital stuff was taped off and I'm not really going too far with this. Just a clean up of the floors and jambs so I can see what there is to work with and what can be saved?

[WorkinProgress]

Graeme,

PM sent.

- Warren

[NorCam]

Thanks Warren :3gears:

Went back to the shop where the car was being media stripped to look at the car again tonight. It's all finished up and on its way to the bodyshop now. I stopped in to look at that grease pencil mark on the center of the firewall and it's clearly marked "OK" right in the middle below the seam sealer. I've seen build numbers and other stuff written on firewalls, but this is the first time I can recall seeing the word OK written on it. Next up...cutting, welding, hammers and dollies!

https://i.ibb.co/44TSPtP/IMG-2900.jpg

[NorCam]

With the car now in the body shop, it's time to start restoring many of the other parts. Deciding to rebuild the stock diff with a set of Strange axles and a new 3 Series carrier, today it was stripped, power washed and deburred. It heads out for media blasting and powder coating tomorrow and should be back together in fairly short order.

https://i.ibb.co/ySQ1pFn/IMG-1681.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/hZK0gBh/IMG-2965.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/SydhcHd/IMG-2972.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/BynD1wY/IMG-2977.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/rZytGz1/IMG-2976.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/wRW75Mm/IMG-2985.jpg

[NorCam]

With all of the metal parts now out for powder coating, plating and chroming, it is time to start in on some the interior restoration. I have never done the seat frame restoration before and just tore these ones down to prep them for the upholstery guy before he sews and patterns the new covers. Planning to blast and paint the frames, install some lower springs, new burlap and fresh cotton before the new covers go on. I've also been experimenting further with Evapo-rust to clean up the rosewood dash parts. This original set had been sitting around for over 30 years. The backs were rusty and the fronts were heavily stained from years of being exposed to various elements. After dunking them for a couple days, the rust is gone and I will now fine sand the back sides and repaint them with black trim paint before I polish the fronts of the rosewood. They should clean up real nice when I am done with them and the seats will look great with new covers going on soon. Keeping my foot on the gas here and trying to get things done before the snow is upon us.

Just wondering? How many of you guys have restored your own seats with deluxe covers and such?

https://i.ibb.co/nmQmXkN/IMG-3001.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/McDMr1N/IMG-2999.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/547hkH5/IMG-3011.jpg

[X66 714]

I don't know if you saw this...Joe

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wO8HFyPjunE

[NorCam]

Yes I did Joe. Just yesterday in fact. Very good video to understand what's involved in rebuilding and installing covers.

[big gear head]

I've got a question about the seats. I had this conversation with my dad a little while ago when he was doing his seats. I'm wondering about sandblasting the springs. Sandblasting is similar to shot peening in some ways as it can relieve surface stress in metal. Has anyone done this and noticed that the springs were any weaker?

[NorCam]

I've always avoided sand blasting springs and was told it makes them brittle or can stretch the weaker ones. I plan to add brand new springs to the frames.

[NorCam]

So I woke up this morning to ask myself, what can be accomplished today? Made a call to Al knoch to arrange a few things and spent a half hour discussing seat upholstery and door panels. I then picked up the subframe and rear end housing after both were media blasted. I drove to town and delivered them to my welders shop. He then stitch welded the frame and properly welded the axle tubes to the rear end housing for me. I then brought them back home later in the day and cleaned up all of the slag and the welds using a few Rolox disks. Next I picked up a new TruTrac Posi carrier and another shipment that just came up from HBC. From there I dropped off my bumper for Chroming along with the stainless trim which will now be polished to perfection. After that I packed up some parts and dropped the housing and subframe back to the powder coaters so he can coat them in the coming days. I have a late pickup scheduled to go and get my Muncie M23 trans that is coming up from the states today, and after I get home from that, I'm gonna sit down and drink a few beers. The rest of the weekend is going to be wound down as some relax time. (lol) yeah right


https://i.ibb.co/hWMCJbd/Stripped.jpg
Housing is now stripped, buffed and ready for powder coating.

https://i.ibb.co/jkyngqk/Tubes.jpg
The tubes were previously welded, so we cleaned them up and a friend added some professional welds to the tubes.

https://i.ibb.co/fNqtJ8Z/Stiched.jpg
He also stitch welded both sides of the sub frame to strenghen and stiffen the frame.

https://i.ibb.co/ZxPG8PS/Prepped.jpg
All of the stress points were beefed up to ensure a it handles some future abuse.

https://i.ibb.co/3dhrHDr/Combo-No-5.jpg
After everything was sanded down and polished up, it all went back to the powder coaters.

[napa68]

"and after I get home from that, I'm gonna sit down and drink a few beers. The rest of the weekend is going to be wound down as some relax time. (lol) yeah right"

I LIKE THE WAY YOU TALK!

[NorCam]

Right on Tim.

Got home 20 minutes ago, unpacked some parts and now I'm knocking back a couple cold ones. Bit of a long stretch here lately with a few different things in motion. You know how that is. :burnout:

https://i.ibb.co/BtTxncW/IMG-3038.jpg
M23 A/G Trans with 346 Gear Package from Jeff Collins at Midwest Muncie

[big gear head]

I sent my M23 main shaft and gears to Jody Haag at Jody's Transmissions for a little tune up. He found some clearance issues and did a few things to improve oiling and shifting. I'm excited to get it back together and see how much better it works. Your guy probably did some of the same tricks to yours.

[NorCam]

I sent my M23 main shaft and gears to Jody Haag at Jody's Transmissions for a little tune up. He found some clearance issues and did a few things to improve oiling and shifting. I'm excited to get it back together and see how much better it works. Your guy probably did some of the same tricks to yours.

I've heard nothing but good things about Jody and did speak with him about doing a trans, but chose to go back with Jeff @ Midwest Muncie who is equally talented. I really can't wait to try out the box with this gear set.

[NorCam]

Learning all about seat restoration and GM Strato bucket frames this past weekend. It's all coming along now with the seat frames apart and ready to go out for media blasting before I paint them up. They are then being packed up and shipped off with fabric to be rebuilt and and fit with new covers by Al Knoch. Al Knoch will also be custom dyeing a set of door panels so they match the yellow Madrid vinyl colors that I purchased through SMS. These should look fantastic once everything is recovered. I still have to detail some of the original seat hardware but it's going well so far with the original buttons and locks cleaned up. Also spent some time restoring the backs of the rosewood dash pieces yesterday and repainted the black areas.

https://i.ibb.co/RpgKdj8/Frames-Fabric.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/Z27bMnK/009-Rear-Cores.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/4sDTywH/IMG-3084.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/n7QwSPM/IMG-3092.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/6BfSCB3/IMG-3093.jpg

[NorCam]

Learning all about seat restoration and GM Strato bucket frames this past weekend. It's all coming along now with the seat frames apart and ready to go out for media blasting before I paint them up. They are then being packed up and shipped off with fabric to be rebuilt and and fit with new covers by Al Knoch. Al Knoch will also be custom dyeing a set of door panels so they match the yellow Madrid vinyl colors that I purchased through SMS. These should look fantastic once everything is recovered. I still have to detail some of the original seat hardware but it's going well so far with the original buttons and locks cleaned up. Also spent some time restoring the backs of the rosewood dash pieces yesterday and repainted the black areas.

https://i.ibb.co/RpgKdj8/Frames-Fabric.jpg
That rolled up package contains 8.5 yards of new seat material from SMS

https://i.ibb.co/Z27bMnK/009-Rear-Cores.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/4sDTywH/IMG-3084.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/n7QwSPM/IMG-3092.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/6BfSCB3/IMG-3093.jpg

[napa68]

It now is about 3 days since you posted Graeme!!!!! Stop screwing off on that Harley and get back to work......I need my fix!

[NorCam]

LOL @ Tim

The good news is that Ron started on the car this week and he's been banging away at it for a couple days now. I made a trip over to his shop today to see the floors and pick from some paint cards he sprayed out last night. The rear frame rails were very clean and the original 16ga torque boxes stayed in place since the AMD torque boxes were lighter at only 18ga. The torque boxes and seat pans were welded in today and all of the plug welds have now been ground smooth including along the lower rockers.

Next up he has some rust to deal with along the dash top. Once that's done he'll move onto the firewall which is also getting new metal. I suspect he'll also keep the original front mounts in place as they are also clean and rust free. In the pictures below, there are two shots of the paint that I chose. With inside light it's a terrific match, but is deeper with a shade more yellow once you get it out in the sun. This card is actually Sherwin Williams ATX BC/CC in 76 Daytona Yellow and I think they also call it Harvest Gold in other GM lines? In either case, it was the deepest color he sprayed out and it really pops in the sun so that's what I chose. More soon as I'm busy with all the bits and pieces while Ron works his way through the body. It's going very well here.

https://i.ibb.co/McT1bwd/001Ron.jpg
Floor removed to reveal clean solid frame rails and torque boxes which were retained and welded to the new floor.

https://i.ibb.co/tYCSW2Q/005.jpg
New AMD floor is in with all of the welding finished up and grinding nearly complete. Both seat boxes are also installed now.

https://i.ibb.co/9ZrVt9C/IMG-3230.jpg
Plug welds between the new floor pan and the original rockers which by the way were completely rust free.

https://i.ibb.co/ySg2wjX/006.jpg
Like most people, Ron doesn't like his picture taken but I got one of him with the car today. (lol)

https://i.ibb.co/fC8dkbx/007.jpg
Sherwin Williams ATX Code 76 Daytona Yellow with a great match under natural lighting.

https://i.ibb.co/LgTryN1/008Ron.jpg
Hard to see the difference here. but in the sunlight this BC/CC paint really pops.

[big gear head]

You know that I always seem to have a question, so here it is. If the firewall is replaced, will the hidden VIN be retained?

[NorCam]

Unfortunately the clutch explosion made a mess out of the tunnel and the toe boards on each side of the bell housing. The previous owner did what he could at the time of the repair to make it look presentable, but in this day in age with replacement panels now available, it really makes sense to fix it right. The section being changed is the central portion seen here between the 2 outer side cowl panels and runs from the seam sealer down. It includes the toe boards and does not affect any of the hidden VIN areas. The VIN numbers are found on the passenger side outer cowl, and on the top cowl panel and none of that is touched in the process.

This lower centre area is the section that is being repaired. It will fix all the mess that was caused when the clutch exploded. It must have made one hell of a mess before it was repaired 35 years ago because it plowed its way over toward the steering column and also thrashed the floor below the gas pedal. Makes you wonder if the person behind the wheel sustained foot trauma since it nailed the pedal area? In either case, it'll be clean as a whistle once this next section is changed out.

https://i.ibb.co/0sJvhnm/IMG-2956.jpg

[NorCam]

Got a call from my powder coater tonight and just got home from picking up the diff housing, sub frame and a bunch of the small parts whick look fantastic. I also have the new axles and center section here now so once the bearing kit arrives from Tom's, the rear end will be going back together. That should happen for Monday and by that time, the upper and lower A-Arms should be done so the sub frame can also start going back together. Thanks for the suggestions on the 12 bolt Freddie. The folks at Tom's are awesome!
:beers:

https://i.ibb.co/FbYzdVH/IMG-3242.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/7n2hRxY/IMG-3246.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/5Tg6n54/IMG-3247.jpg

[X66 714]

That looks a lot like mine. I used BK02 powder from Cardinal...Joe

[Tracker1]

Beautiful stuff Graeme. Here's a double Yella Fella in Cold Lake

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars/edmonton/classic-car/1525140052

[NorCam]

Beautiful stuff Graeme. Here's a double Yella Fella in Cold Lake

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars/edmonton/classic-car/1525140052

Such a great description huh? :haha:

[Tracker1]

Such a great description huh? :haha:

I know right?? And "camero"

[NorCam]

Got the gloss black control arms back from powder last night. Now to get the bushings and ball joints loaded into them before it all goes back together. Yesterday was also a great day for painting so I detailed the hood hinges and the front steering gear so that will also be going together this week.

https://i.ibb.co/31SCDNf/IMG-3278.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/RN4Rpn8/IMG-3281.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/QPWNtF3/IMG-3270.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/PhWZQBx/IMG-3269.jpg

[Chuck_Burg]

I've been gone for a week and just like that you're pulling way ahead of me HAHAHA!!! Looks great bud:beers:

[chevyman0429]

What did you coat/paint those hood hinges with they look awesome? I look for updates every day on this car coming along very nicely.

[NorCam]

What did you coat/paint those hood hinges with they look awesome? I look for updates every day on this car coming along very nicely.

Cleaned them in Evapo-rust and then painted them with Eastwood Zinc Phosphate. Added a coat of Eastwood satin clear to give them some added protection. (spray bombed)

[napa68]

Your UPS guy (or whatever in the hell you get up that way) must have gone in for hernia surgery at one point or another with all of your builds;)

[NorCam]

Your UPS guy (or whatever in the hell you get up that way) must have gone in for hernia surgery at one point or another with all of your builds;)

You guys still using men in brown shorts down there Tim? We actually get Santa's little red elves that deliver our parts up here buddy. :haha:

https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1BMVELXXXXXXmXXXXq6xXFXXXB/2018-HOT-Sexy-Women-Santa-Christmas-Sequins-Costume-Hollow-Dress-with-Christmas-Hat-Leg-warmers-Sexy.jpg

[NorCam]

Ball joints and bushings are done now. Next up are the springs and the assembly of the front suspension then I'm onto the front brake hardware and the hard lines. Gotta keep the pedal mashed here!

https://i.ibb.co/TqVyR1F/IMG-3295.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/31R8Dy7/IMG-3293.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/NV4Gfhw/IMG-3294.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/YTTNQ5X/IMG-3291.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/djzW8xC/IMG-3297.jpg

[ZLP955]

Good progress

[SuperNovaSS]

Looking great as always. Thanks again for taking the time to share.

Jason

[BJCHEV396]

Yes,thanks for sharing.Much appreciated and great work!

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

To keep this pace you must have done some serious preparations!!!

Ryan W31

[X66 714]

To keep this pace you must have done some serious preparations!!!

Ryan W31

He's an animal. I can't keep up with Graeme....Joe

[NorCam]

To keep this pace you must have done some serious preparations!!!

Ryan W31

No prep work performed here Ryan, just an on the fly desire to finish the car quickly and have it ready to bang gears come spring time. Gonna drive the wheels off this one and have some fun with it.

Oh yeah...almost forgot. The diff is ready now too! Powder coated the housing, new axles, new Timken bearings and seals, new install kit, Eaton TruTrac carrier, and setup a nice pattern on the old GM ring and pinion. Buttoned up the cover late this afternoon and just need to add some fluid before I put the brakes on it.

Big thanks to Freddie for some real sound advice along the way. :biggthumpup:

https://i.ibb.co/brrRXNB/001-Axles.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/LNz8Q83/003-Ring.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/KNW47sz/Pattern.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/W57dQTT/004-Cover.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/nrhfyNS/005-Housing.jpg

[big gear head]

I'm glad to help. I hate to see people spend good money on parts that aren't good.

[rlw68]

He's an animal. I can't keep up with Graeme....Joe

He clearly has too much time on his hands! I'm just too easily distracted... :rolleyes2:

175768

175769

[NorCam]

LOL @ Rob

So I see from the pictures that you wanna race. You got winter tires on that car? Cause I have seen you beach goer's drive when the rubber hits the ice.

:haha:

[rlw68]

LOL @ Rob
So I see from the pictures that you wanna race. You got winter tires on that car? Cause I have seen you beach goer's drive when the rubber hits the ice.


I can't even drive in Forza snow! My son drove the yellow 'boomer-mobile' as he calls it and usually wins. The two colors do look great together though.

[NorCam]

Staying with it today I was hoping to get the brakes completed on the diff but need a couple of parts so that will have to wait. I then got onto the front subframe and got the control arms in, the new springs installed and got creative with a couple front shocks that are now disguised as Gabriel/Hurst. I like the look of these. More to come in the days ahead.

https://i.ibb.co/GR5SQXh/IMG-3402.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/hd2ZdNQ/IMG-3391.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/q5KjzWg/IMG-3410.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/SNqHHQb/IMG-3406.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/F0ZrPXq/IMG-3399.jpg

[jbtech]

I like your style, get everything you need to do the car and bang it out! No waiting around.

[olredalert]

----Graeme,,,Does it get a bit difficult to install the frame to motor mounts when the A-fames are installed? Does for me!......Bill S

[NorCam]

Yes it makes it a bit harder but it's still doable. IMO, those top two nuts are always a balancing act whether the springs and control arms are in there or not. At least it always seems that way. I thought about installing frame mounts yesterday...but all I have right now is a repo pair that were used for mocking up a dummy engine while the headers were being fabbed. I'm still looking for an original pair of mounts and will have to get those nuts on the back sides once I find the right pair of mounts to use.

[rlw68]

Did you get new coil springs, and why black?

Someone had put big block springs in my Z :eek2: The Moog 6308's going back in came with a vinyl coating but I'm going to strip it off.

.

[NorCam]

These are moogs and I left the finish that was on them. I got them from Heartbeat and I'm pretty certain they use the 6312 springs for Z/28's. I'll see what they are like once everything is in but with big heavy headers and a bunch of other stuff being added to the front end, I am hoping to have heavy enough springs and not have it sag.

Adding vac pump, power steering, heavy weight headers, line loc, bigger radiator, and might still run a tunnel ram if I find the right setup.

[NorCam]

Had an easy day around here yesterday and didn't accomplish a lot, but did get out to spend a few hours on the sub frame. Packed the bearings, put the rotors on and installed the front sway bar before putting some wheels back on it. I need to finish up the calipers and still need to get the power steering box rebuilt.

https://i.ibb.co/xjR3FNq/IMG-3427.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/z6ScrXK/IMG-3422.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/v1y0kJb/IMG-3425.jpg

[chevyman0429]

Boy does that ever look incredible! That cars definitely gonna be bitchin.

[cruiserofland]

It's cathartic to continue to see all your beautifully restored parts! Great work as ever :beers:

[NorCam]

I was hoping to finish off the sub frame today but looks like I'm also missing a bracket that supports the sway bar to the frame. Found one today but will need to wait for it to arrive.

https://i.ibb.co/WBMW6JH/IMG-E3431.jpg

[NorCam]

While the bodywork is progressing, I've also been busy getting all of the interior parts ready to go. After taking the seats apart, I sent them off to be media stripped and powder coated in a bright silver finish. They are now ready to go to the upholsterers where new patterns will be sewn and stitched before the seats are restored to factory like condition. I like how the springs and frames came out.


https://i.ibb.co/J7ZvK4q/Frame1.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/1q3tTpG/Frame2.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/dKfT9Fd/Frame3.jpg

[Chuck_Burg]

Wow! Those seats look amazing. My upholsterer wanted to blast my frames and paint them. I told him to leave them alone, why would you blast them? There wasn't even any rust on them

[NorCam]

For those who'd like to know what's been going on with the bodywork...here's a bit of an update. The floor was completed a week and a half ago before Ron took to the dashtop and the bottom of the windshield area. The car didn't have a lot of rust in it, but the front of the dash did have some decay due to moisture being trapped under the dashtop in between the underlying support panel. GM used to fill this area with a foam sealant that retained moisture and was targeted with planned rust out. I believe GM called this "Planned Obsolescence".

With the underlying area cleaned up and replaced with new metal, a new dashtop was then installed and has now been welded in and ground smooth. Next, we replaced the lower firewall section due to an earlier clutch explosion (1974) that damaged the tunnel, toe boards and the leading edges of the floor. An AMD lower firewall section was then fit into place and welded around the outer seams. We also repaired the drivers side cowl plenum which was damaged from a racing incident back in the 80's. Rather than repair that particular piece of metal, a choice was made to replace the outer cowl panel with new sheet metal. This now finished off the front of the car and Ron has since moved onto the rear quarters and trunk area which are progressing quickly. I'll update more pictures of the bodywork once the GM quarter panels are welded in and the bodywork begins on the doors and fenders.


https://i.ibb.co/Y0mGdWr/IMG-3316.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/s9XqqDK/IMG-3319.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/KFLCbMJ/IMG-3333.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/h2J3Vw0/IMG-3324.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/85Mt9Bd/IMG-3343.jpg

[X66 714]

Dang. He's quick...Joe

[NorCam]

Dang. He's quick...Joe

At 73 years old, he's probably one of the most ambitious and hardest-working body men that I've ever met. He used to go 7 days a week and 12 hours a day on these types of projects. At present, I think he's still working those kinds of hours and typically he works on only one car at a time.