'69 C3-Estimated costs and problem areas to reanimate long-dormant car

[tom406]

I have my own ideas, but I'd appreciate input from those of you out there who have worked on C3's that have been dormant for a long time. I'm looking at a 1 owner 36k mile '69 L46 4sp A/C coupe that had the battery removed and has been parked for about 30 years. Everything is intact and looks great but its a C3 with... all those vacuum lines. All input welcome, including wild-ass guesses. Thank you:)

[William]

Step #1: Check the frame. Notorious for heavy rust, typically in front of the rear wheels.

[tom406]

Thanks William. Lifelong Seattle car, frame rust is a non-issue (I looked). BTW, I grew up in Minneapolis, so I truly understand rust:)

[Too Many Projects]

Nice looking car. I really like the blue on blue.
If it was stored in a protected environment, the hoses may not be deteriorated badly. How do the hoses look that you can see in the engine compartment ?



Brake calipers are a concern, as they may well be stuck, or will, after a few applications.
Hopefully, there is a high enough anti-freeze concentration to ward off major rusting in the block.

I would check out prices for the parts that it may need and, of course, all the fluids and flushing chemicals necessary.

WAG ?? No idea but tires and a battery are going to run 1-2k. Friggen batteries are $2-300 now..:rolleyes2:

[William]

I'm in WI....

[Too Many Projects]

MN, WI, MI, they are the headwaters of the Midwest rust belt...:mad2:

[Lynn]

Assuming you are correct on the frame, the biggest X factor is the engine. Is it frozen?

You can absolutely bank on the following:

Brake calipers will need replaced. Not expensive if doing it yourself and if you are NOT concerned with 100% originality. Lone Star Calipers is pretty reasonable. For more money, and if you are not in a hurry, you can have the originals rebuilt. They will need to be sleeved.

99% of the time the master cyl also needs rebuilt or replaced. If all that stuff is original, I would personally send to White Post for sleeving and rebuilding.

The other X factor is the fuel tank. Was it almost full? If so, you just need to suck out all the old gas and put fresh gas in there. Check for leak at the fuel pump before starting. I have seen cars emerge from long term storage with nothing more than fluid changes, clean gas, brakes, and they drive right down the road. Others seem to leak from every possible source.

I bought a 70 LT-1 that had sat since 1984. Replaced the MC and calipers, put clean gas in the tank and put on an electric fuel pump (temporary) and had it up and driving in less than a week. Did not even change the hoses and belts, although I will.

Assuming engine is not locked, and assuming you are doing this yourself, you should be able to get it on the road for less than $2k. I have no idea what it would cost to pay someone. I haven't paid anyone to work on a car since I was 17.

[earntaz]

Don't forget to check the bird cage ...

[TimG]

Make sure the engine rotates, I bet it does. The AC will need work. It's a twin to a car I bought from the original owner and sold to a friend 30 years ago. He still owns it.

[tom406]

Ordered new by Boeing Engineer who helped design the lunar landing operation:)

[napa68]

I'm in WI....

That's freaking hilarious!

[tcom]

If the car is as original as it looks in the pics , I would do nothing before I brought the car to NCRS events for Bowtie sign off/judging. On a trailer if need be. My 2 cents

[1971ls6]

You need to make a decision right now as to the future of the car. If you go the Ncrs route, lightly clean everything you can with mild soap, do not remove any markings. Verify all of the numbers yourself to find out what has been changed. Build date of the car is the magic date, NCRS gives you 6 months prior to receive points.

I was an active judge in the Michigan NCRS and learned a lot, good and bad, but they have the C3 cars covered and know what is right and wrong, down to the all important head markings on BB valve covers, should they be TR or RBW? I watched this debate go on for hours.

They don’t say the part is wrong, the line is “this is not what we would expect to see in normal production practices”

If the car is unmolested and has everything there, then Ncrs May be the right path for future value.

Most C3 restorations end up with the owner upside on it.

[travlnz28]

Here is my C3 nightmare. Hopefully it goes smoother for you.

I bought a 60K mile 1969 350/350 roadster from the son of the original owner. It had been parked in a California garage since the mid 80's. He said that it had been under an awning with a cover for a few years before moving into the garage.

I had looked at the car in 1993 and told him that I would like to buy it but was turned down at the time. Flash forward to 2016 and I am now living in Tennessee. He contacts me and says he's ready to sell the car.

To make a long story short, everything mechanical that could be wrong was! The fuel tank had pin holes, the master cylinder and booster were kaput, the radiator leaked like a sieve and to top it all off the engine was stuck! Of course the rebuild of the engine led to a new clutch. When it went back together the mechanic said the transmission was making noise so I had it completely rebuilt. Turns out the mechanic screwed up when he installed the clutch!

The car was pretty squared away when I sold it but I was never so happy to see a car leave my garage.

Like I said, I hope yours goes way better than mine. Looks like a great car!

[TimG]

That's a great car with lots of options. If you can buy it "reasonably" I'd jump on it.

Here is the window sticker from my "twin". Same colors and nearly the same options, head restraints were included since this car was built after January 1 This car was more expensive than a Cadillac in 1969. I talked to my friend that ordered this car earlier today. When asked why he didn't order power windows he said that if they broke, you were screwed.

One interesting note for 1969 Corvettes. The L46 engine option was the only engine in 1969 that could ONLY be ordered with a 4 speed transmission. All other engines could be had with an automatic transmission including the ZL1.

[Ralph Spears]

How did you find the car ???

[tom406]

That is pretty much the twin, Tim. Your guy just ordered the power brakes and steering I wish this one had.

Thank you everyone for your input. I'm actually advising an estate on this car and I knew a number of you have dabbled in C3's so I wanted a quick head check. My enthusiasm for finds like this sometimes leads to me underestimate market resistance to certain aspects of cars. I do have strong interest in this car (my favorite year and color combo) but due to the inherent conflict of interest in appraising and buying something, the heirs would have to opt out of purchasing it and the executor would decide put it on the open market (ideally in an auction format) for me to buy it with adequate transparency.

It's been said on the board many times, but these are almost criminally undervalued compared to other Chevrolet muscle cars of the era. I found a number of comparable nice, documented, #'s L46 Coupes (and a Roadster) that have sold recently for less than $40k.

Thanks again everyone.