1967 ss/rs resto/mod

[Too Many Projects]

I've owned this car since 2004 and re-assembled it from a basket case to drive "while I was restoring it". It never got past the driver stage until 2 years ago. I, FINALLY, got a 1 piece trunk pan, trunk drops, extension panel, right full quarter and left skin for it. I was just going to do the back half and drive it again.... uh, huh.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2F67%2520Camaro%2520001_zps4uv8umdt .jpg%3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfi t%3Dbounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill




https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2F67%2520Camaro%2520007_zps039peiob .jpg%3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfi t%3Dbounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill




https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSCN3859_zpsurbzjynd.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill



The car came from the SF Bay area and was, generally, in good condition, but the salty air caused the typical rust thru at the rear window and the center section of the trunk pan rusted...badly.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC03918_zpsb88qngzm.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


I was going to just replace the center pan, but the car was hit on the right rear corner way in the past and the quarter was sectioned on over remnants of the original panel. The tail panel was sectioned in the center of the left tail light opening and the trunk floor/extension was still crumpled and not pulled out properly. This led to the decision to replace the entire trunk floor and "do it right".


The frame rails and left trunk drop are in very nice condition, so I preserved and left them.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04171_zpss1z3q0jp.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


The inner wheel houses needed repair on both sides for rust at the floor weld flanges. I had to replace much of the left, while the right only needed sections welded in at the flange location.



https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04161_zpsgyfserk8.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill




https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04187_zpse39ik2cu.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


After fitting the floor and left inner house, with gauges, to be certain it was centered and square, I cleaned and sprayed galvanizing preservative in the frame rails.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04196_zpsvnpy5oub.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


The rails were still galvanized but I had welded up extra holes from previous exhaust mods and drowned the rusty steel shackle mounts in Eastwood converter.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04180_zpsn7mga11g.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04181_zps2xypknzy.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


Once all the pieces were ready, the weld flanges got coated with copper weld thru primer and installed.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04184_zpszu81byrw.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04186_zpsr7kqksep.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04211_zpscns8bigy.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04198_zpsw7vmsknb.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04200_zpsnmz9s16s.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


The floor killed my back and knees from leaning in the trunk. The wheel house required curling up in a fetal position inside the trunk. Good thing I'm not all that big.



https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04214_zps5hvrhhf8.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04215_zpsd8qkph1i.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill

[1crossram]

Wonderful work

[NorCam]

Nice work on the floors and the welding. Do you have plans to Day 2 this car?

[Too Many Projects]

I'm in our local Camaro and Chevelle Clubs and it was getting into March of 2019 and the Chevelle Club was looking for a "tech session" project to work on. I have held a number of these for both the Chevelle and Camaro Clubs during the long winter months over the past 12 years.

I had a complete front disc upgrade and Global West upper control arms sitting on a shelf for several years, so I said we could throw all that on for the club to have a meeting and get together.


https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/q752/Stillwaterchevs/1967%20Camaro/.highres/DSC04243_zps6099tctm.jpg?width=450&height=278&fit=bounds&crop=fill



I have hosted a few of these complete front end make-overs in the past and with 6 people working on it, we have done these kind of swaps in one Saturday.
I got the car turned around in the shop to face forward and removed the front wheels in preparation for the event. I was looking at the dirty, surface rusted sub frame and thought I can't just throw all these new, clean parts on it like that. Well, most of you know how steep the project creep slope is and I started removing other parts for access to the subframe to clean and paint. This is where I stopped...:rolleyes2:


https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/q752/Stillwaterchevs/1967%20Camaro/.highres/DSC04251_zpss87qsg7e.jpg?width=450&height=278&fit=bounds&crop=fill


I figured we could do a quick clean and spray of the frame and get all the parts on and I could finish it up the next day. Uh, huh. I, also, had a fresh rebuilt 350, that another member of the Chevelle Club had built for me and had just installed. The original 350 was long gone, as was the original powerglide.
After we had a meeting and pizza, the guys removed all the suspension and were encouraging me to remove what little was left and get the subframe powder coated. So, what the heck, lets do it.


https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/q752/Stillwaterchevs/1967%20Camaro/.highres/DSC04256_zpszzyuhdkv.jpg?width=450&height=278&fit=bounds&crop=fill


The entire front sheet metal went out for chemical stripping.


https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/q752/Stillwaterchevs/1967%20Camaro/.highres/DSC04307_zpsror4hc9e.jpg?width=450&height=278&fit=bounds&crop=fill


https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/q752/Stillwaterchevs/1967%20Camaro/.highres/DSC04426_zpsjbj3ikah.jpg?width=450&height=278&fit=bounds&crop=fill


Sub frame, inner wheel houses, core support and all small under hood pieces went out for powder coating.


https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/q752/Stillwaterchevs/1967%20Camaro/.highres/DSC04425_zps3vqtrdml.jpg?width=450&height=278&fit=bounds&crop=fill


And the firewall was stripped and rust found in the lower cowls. That turned into the usual repairs but I tried a product, new to me, that was supposed to be the greatest at stopping and sealing any future rust. More on that time consuming fail later.


https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/q752/Stillwaterchevs/1967%20Camaro/.highres/DSC04379_zps526zjt7j.jpg?width=450&height=278&fit=bounds&crop=fill


https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/q752/Stillwaterchevs/1967%20Camaro/.highres/DSC04285_zps4pnjqrjo.jpg?width=450&height=278&fit=bounds&crop=fill

[Too Many Projects]

I found some rust in the lower right cowl and repaired that.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04319_zpslbxhllkx.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04321_zpsp9rulqhq.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04327_zpsbnjlpvfe.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04328_zpsyzfio7as.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


As I was cleaning out the firewall to upper cowl seam, I found an area with no spot welds so put a few small tacks in the seam to get covered with sealer.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04311_zpsjz31dhz6.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04313_zpsbhyeanxh.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill

[Too Many Projects]

The left side turned into a much larger issue, from a seemingly, small area.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC04330.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


I cut out the side panel and when I saw how rusty the whole bottom 8" was, I cut off the front panel too and eventually the rest of the side panel and drilled out all the spot welds. I wire wheeled and sanded all the rust that I could reach and then treated it with a rust encapsulator.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04433_zpsak2cunqo.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


In the process of all this removal, I discovered a misplaced panel and the spot welds to the firewall weren't holding anything. The panel had been allowed to be too far forward and was spot welded in place to the body mount supports. I drilled out those welds, pulled the panel tight with drill screws, clamped the support brackets together and welded it all up.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04406_zpsl1mshevs.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04415_zpszoeyjbqv.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


Then it could move on with the "tulip" panel as some call it.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04466_zpsgf9ylfmd.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill

[Lynn]

Looks like you are moving right along.

Nice pics of the progress.

[Too Many Projects]

After I got all the rust repair done, I reinforced the throttle pedal area with a heavy plate. It was already cracked and I was adding a Lokar Midnight series pedal and cable and I learned, the hard way, that the pedal stresses the metal and cracks the thin sheet. I added the same pedal to my '66 Chevelle a couple years before and had to add the plate after the fact.



https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04450_zpsiiwj1coq.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04457_zpsl56g9ucl.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


Then I stripped the firewall bare and seam sealed it. Then I applied the Mastercoat rust encapsulator and let it dry for 2 days. It was still soft after 48 hours and was supposed to be dry in 24. I thought it would cure with their paint on it, so went ahead and shot that on. 5 days later, I scrapped and sanded the gummy crap off and started over, cleaning the metal until it was sanitized and tried the encapsulator again. It never did dry, so I got that off a second time and ordered my usual SPI epoxy urethane primer and shot it with that. All in all, I sanded that firewall 5 TIMES before I got a product that worked.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04376_zpshlohnb1d.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill




https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04494_zpsssqkfavi.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04497_zpsimyuymir.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04505_zpsotooyypi.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


Finally !! Ready to assemble.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04533_zpsjrjzkjjl.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


I went to put the e brake pedal assembly back in and couldn't like this...


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04380_zpsfxek5afa.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


Gave it crushed glass bath in the blast cabinet and then painted it with the SPI, along with a "few" other things my perfectionism got the best of me on.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04383_zpswvllatal.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04519_zps0kcn3lzq.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


I installed the subframe and suspension/steering systems in preparation for the new engine and transmission.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04660_zps8atj8liz.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


I upgraded to power disc brakes, Global West upper control arms and a Hotchkis 1 1/4" sway bar.



https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04658_zps2i5nc3qb.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


The car was built with a pg trans and I don't really care for automatics in muscle cars. I had a Muncie sitting on a shelf for about 8 years and "thought" it was an M20. I needed to replace the main case and rebuild it, so I got it down and it is an M21. I had bought all new Italian gears for it many years ago, and obviously forgot which trans it was. I still needed to buy the complete bearing kit and assemble it.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04547_zps3mbthidz.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04586_zps3xw9eumq.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04631_zpswsenmgai.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


I had bought a, rather hard to find, Hurst conversion shifter for '67-68 Camaro's with console a LONG time ago, anticipating this swap.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04690_zpsttiy3m1k.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill



https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04691_zps36qeu13r.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04695_zpsewe4b7gi.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04694_zps7eaiitpt.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill

[COPO]

Looks like a nice project and certainly excellent progress. It's great you had been stockpiling parts for many years which certainly helps with the cash flow.

[Mr70]

Awesome work & coverage Mitch. :)

[Too Many Projects]

About the time I had the engine/trans in, we found a different home and placed an offer that was accepted with a closing date only 30 DAYS away !! That put the HURRY on the rest of the front clip. After the chemical stripping, the metal was too smooth for the SPI to hold. Barry recommends 80 grit sand on bare metal for "tooth". I wasn't going to hand sand everything, so I took it to a local blaster and stressed that all it needed was a light texturing. He was a little perplexed, as it was all bare steel, but understood what I wanted and kept the nozzle back quite a ways and it came out nice.

I knew the left fender had more than it's fair share of bondo in it but I didn't expect what I found when it came back from chemical stripping. That poor fender was a crinkled mess. The leading edge was crushed and folded and had been shaped out of filler. I don't have much in the way of metal shaping skills to save the fender, but I tried and it had to go back on the car, so it did get epoxy primer and jamming of the original Granada Gold.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC04720.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC04722.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04852_zpsa4hmt7nv.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04877_zpshi339bfm.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04883_zps3nk5mymu.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


Shortly before we signed a contract on the other house I had been in negotiations with Camaro Specialties near Buffalo NY for an NOS left rs fender. I did a 38 hour run out there just before we moved and brought it back.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04970_zps2hffxyyi.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC04968_zpsx7sc4m4y.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


I threw the rear axle back under the car and a patch panel in the left rear foot well and then the car was ready to be moved.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F1967%2520Cam aro%2F.highres%2FDSC05038_zpsiu0hmslm.jpg%3Fwidth% 3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbounds%26 amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


And that is where it stayed until last weekend. I had no heat in my new, to me, pole building and spent all summer, and a good chunk of change, insulating, stepping the trusses for an overhead door, ceiling panels and heat. I now have a very comfortable shop to work in again this winter.


Seems the only pic I have showing most of the shop is with my '66 Chevelle.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC06960.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


I backed the Camaro in and marked where I wanted to cut the quarter off for a new skin and outer wheel house sections. The 2 rust holes weren't that bad and I could have used patches, but the entire length of the panel has filler from an old crease. NOT going to fight with that.





https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC06990.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC06991.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


So off it came...


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC06992.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill

[Too Many Projects]

I drilled all the spot welds out at the tail panel, trunk drop and outer wheel house.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC06994.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07002.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


I cut off the wheel house from the drop down.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC06996.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


The bottom weld flange of the quarter panel was buried in sealer, so I scrapped that out and discovered the diagonal brace in that area was spot welded on top of the quarter. I removed the brace for access to the flange welds and drilled them out.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07003.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07005.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07010.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07012.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


Then I cut out the forward section of the wheel house lip that was rusted and dented.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07014.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07013.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


Did a bunch of cleaning and de-burring and set the new skin on for a test fit. It, actually, looks like it's going to be very close.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07006.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07007.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


Marked the area of the outer house to cut out the sections I need.


https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/q752/Stillwaterchevs/DSC07015.JPG?width=450&height=278&fit=bounds&crop=fill


https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/q752/Stillwaterchevs/DSC07016.JPG?width=450&height=278&fit=bounds&crop=fill



And that is where I am at today. Next work session is getting the sections cut out and start cutting the skin to fit.

[1crossram]

Great work, thanks for sharing.

[dykstra]

Looking good!

[Too Many Projects]

Looking good!


Thanks, I've got about 10 hours into trimming and fitting the skin and just can't get it where I want it. It keeps rocking on what is left of the original wheel house. I wanted to retain that to locate the new skin, but the wheel opening on the skin seems a bit too high to get the body lines to line up. Guess I'll cut off the center section, align the skin and use the complete repro outer house after all.
At least 3 hours of that has been spent on re-locating the weld flange at the rocker up 1/4" a little at a time with the dolly. I, finally, have the center of door body line down low enough to be right on.

[Too Many Projects]

All right, I was thinking I would need to cut off the rest of the outer house to get the new panel up 1/8", but figured I may as well beat on it first, to see if the skin would go up further and it DID !! I think it was pushed down slightly from the crease down the whole length of the original panel.
Finally, all the body lines are in alignment.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07049.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07051.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


This bottom weld flange was a PITA. I had to keep moving it up with the hammer and dolly, but I got it.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07052.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


The trunk drop even lines up now.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07050.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


The new panel is inside the original, to retain the original body lines. It goes all the way to the top ridge. There is no seam visible in the trunk, unless you lay your head on the pan and look up. That, too, will get a thin swipe of seam sealer, to protect from moisture getting under it, but will help disguise it too.



https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07053.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


The leading edge fits between the door jamb structure and the original q-p.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07054.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


With the panel fitted, it was time to clean up the rust and be ready for the converter/encapsulator and then undercoating.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07055.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07056.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07057.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


As long as I was already making a mess, I ground down the welds on the inner repair too.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07058.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill

[scuncio]

Looks great, nice work fitting the new panel. Are you lapping or butting the upper seam?

[Too Many Projects]

Top and front will be lapped, new skin behind to minimize filler to blend.
Right side gets a full quarter. That will be interesting to remove and see what is left of the original under it.

[Too Many Projects]

Prepping before quarter install. I cleaned up the loose rust and then shot it all with rust converter and then undercoating. First pic is supposed to show the rust, but not enough light.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07062.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07063.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07064.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07066.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07065.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill

[Too Many Projects]

Still getting ready to install q-p. Today was clean up, weld holes shut and install the original trunk drop.

wire wheeled the rust on the inside for undercoating.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07069.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07070.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


I cut thru this with the plasma while removing the tail panel. Also looks like the factory had the spot welder in the wrong place the first try. 5 dents and heated spots in line with the cut.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07071.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


Used my copper backing plate on the cut.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07073.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


Went all the way around, welding spot drill depressions/holes for a solid surface for reuse.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07075.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


found the date stamp December 1966. Car was built second week of Feb.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07076.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


All welds knocked down.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07078.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07079.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


Shot it with undercoating before lunch.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07081.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


That was dry when I came back, so welded it on. I knocked down the welds on it and the pan to frame rails, so I wasn't throwing grindings in the drop later.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07083.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill

[Too Many Projects]

Talked with Restoration Specialists this morning and I'm going to pick up the Camaro and Chevelle hoods Wednesday. Looking forward to getting them back and to my PDR guy for dent removal.

[Too Many Projects]

Did the final fit and prep of the q-p and started the welding process.
All weld surfaces got paint removal with the scotch wheel.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07123.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07124.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07125.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


Then, all the mating flanges got a shot of copper weld thru primer.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07126.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


I pre-drilled holes for the drill screws to hold the new panel snug against the original and locked it on.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07127.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07128.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07130.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


I was pleased that the replacement matched the original so well at the back.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07132.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


After an hour and a half of tack welding, it was ready to remove the screws and close it up.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07133.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


I started knocking down the extra weld but supper called.



https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07135.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07136.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill

[scuncio]

Nice progress. What do you do with the lapped seam to finish it out? I have only butted panels together...but nothing quite that long....

[Too Many Projects]

The GOAL with the overlap is to blend it with a SKIM coat of filler. We shall see how well that turns out. I attempted to butt weld a skin on my '66 Chevelle a few years ago and between the mis-match of shape, heat expansion, weld shrink, etc., it didn't go well. Then I tried flanging the seam and that distorted the curvature of the panel. With this method I have had decent success with controlling all that to a minimum.
The plan is to spot weld the trunk drop and then fit the outer wheel house patches and weld/spot weld them in.

The right side gets a full quarter, so should be a lot easier. :dunno:

[Too Many Projects]

I ordered new battery cables, a positive terminal and pan clips from Summit a while back. The cables are being made and shipped directly from AAW. I got the other parts and my new, favorite, T-shirt last week...:wink:


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07144.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07145.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


I did get the quarter further along. I finished welding the overlap seam and the flange at the rocker. I forgot to punch holes in that flange, so had to edge weld it. Very tight getting the mig gun in the quarter. I was looking down thru the glass channel at the top to aim the gun and then pulling the trigger, while looking away. Not pretty, but it won't fall off either.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07162.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07163.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


Then I set up the spot welder to do the trunk drop. IF I can get everything set up just right for this to work, it does a really nice job, but it's finicky and HEAVY to hold in position.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07166.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07171.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07169.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07170.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


Then I changed out the tongs to do internal welding for the wheel house. I got a few done nicely, but I didn't get everything as clean as it liked and gave up after a while of trying to please it. I couldn't get the tension right to compress the panels tight enough for it to fire. I will get back to this soon. I got side tracked with clearing out my late mother's apartment and putting up new LED lights in the shop so I can actually SEE what I'm doing on the car.



https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07172.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07173.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill

[Too Many Projects]

I've had several distractions and work lately, but got back on the Camaro today. I cut out the wheel house patches I needed from the repro house I had. Got them prepped and welded in. Got the spot welder working right again and used that for the wheel opening all the way around. That will save from needing to dress weld grinding. A little touch up with some 80 grit to smooth them out a little and ready for epoxy.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07226.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07225.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07228.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07233.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07236.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


Took a fair amount of hammer shaping to get the repro to fit snug against the original, but it's good enough for a skim of sealer to hide the seam.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07237.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill

[Too Many Projects]

Starting on the right side. This has a skin brazed on from crash damage a LONG time ago. I've known there was filler on this side, but wow, I don't know why it needed to be 3/16ths to a quarter inch deep to blend this panel. The miss-match at the top of the door has always been a question too and I can now see the new skin follows the door quite well, but the top of the B pillar is offset. I have a complete quarter for this side, so I'll end up moving the inner structure out to match up the body lines. Lots of work ahead to get this off to evaluate what else it needs.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07241.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07240.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07242.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07243.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill

[Too Many Projects]

Got an NOS shifter plate today, thank you very much Dan !!
It has a few light scratches, but they just blend with the rest of the aged console top.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07263.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07264.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


The shifter doesn't seem to be the correct body. The stick is almost touching the side in 3rd/4th.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07265.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill

[Too Many Projects]

Late Christmas ? Early birthday ?

FedEx dropped this on my front porch this morning. This is sold as a conversion, but it has everything I need to replace the original parts that are worn out, missing and damaged. Wish it was summer. I would get the NOS fender in epoxy and jammed with Granada Gold to install with all this. 16 years, this car has been waiting for a working rs headlight system.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07268.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill

[Too Many Projects]

Finally got back on the Camaro. I cut off most of the right quarter panel.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07443.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


Back side with the original piece they left on.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07444.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


And even THAT had holes and filler from a scrape. The owner(s) of this car must have been terrible drivers. EVERY corner and side has old crash damage...:rolleyes2:


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07445.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


This piece was fully brazed on and was an original GM part. Must have been when the car was fairly young.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07446.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07447.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill


They left the lip of the wheel house on and put the new one over it. How much more time would it have taken to do this right ??


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07448.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bfit%3D bounds%26amp%3Bcrop%3Dfill

[scuncio]

Nice work, are you leaving the door jamb area or replacing that too?

[Too Many Projects]

The whole quarter will come off.
Not certain how far I will go back into the jam. That depends on where the previous section is brazed on. Ideally, I'd like to NOT have to drill out all the spot welds holding the q-p to the inner structure of the jam, but it will be what it is when I get there.
I need to determine why this mis-match exists too. May need to pull the jam pillar out.


https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/q752/Stillwaterchevs/DSC07243.JPG?width=450&height=278&fit=bounds&crop=fill

[Mr70]

Thanks for sharing all this,incredible attention to Detail.

[Too Many Projects]

Update has been a long time coming, but I changed channels along the way.
The AMD quarter did not fit near as well as I was led to believe and I went looking for an NOS. TravlnZ28 came to the rescue with a nice one and I drove to his place in TN to bring it home without the shipping gorillas getting a chance to destroy it.
Here is a pic of the door gap with the AMD. It is way too wide and the lazy curved edge didn't help either. The seam at the extension panel was the same, wide, lazy bend and the lip at the trunk lid would require cutting, repositioning and welding to look right.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07525.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bcrop%3 Dfill


The NOS door gap, WAAAAAY better and once I lift the door at the front, it will be even top to bottom...:grin:


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07624.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bcrop%3 Dfill


Pic of the seam at extension panel, super nice. Unfortunately, I need to replace that too and the bends on the repro are lazy and the corner is rounded, not pointed as seen on the original. That will take work to correct, but I'm considering brushing up on my decades old brazing skills and using that to build up the corner.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07626.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bcrop%3 Dfill


Once I had established that I was MUCH happier with this piece, I used drill screws to hold the door edge in place and inserted the reinforcement bracket inside the panel. I had used drill screws to hold that in place while I drilled out the spot welds, so I was able to get that back in the correct location.



https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07637.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bcrop%3 Dfill


I then used 3 drill screws thru the skin to hold it tight to the brace and removed the quarter.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07634.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bcrop%3 Dfill

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07635.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bcrop%3 Dfill


Once I had it off, I used a silver marker to color in the spot weld drill holes and sanded the EDP off for welding.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07638.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bcrop%3 Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07639.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bcrop%3 Dfill


Then it got welded to the quarter. NOT pretty welds. The brace gauge is much thicker than the skin and with the galvanized coating, made the welds get too hot to run a full circle without stopping.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07642.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bcrop%3 Dfill


On the skin side. I do have some overheat high spots and the 3 drill screw holes to knock down, but it will be fine with a skim to blend after that. I probably should have tried to set up my spot welder for this, but that can take a LONG time of experimenting.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07643.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bcrop%3 Dfill


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07644.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bcrop%3 Dfill

[Too Many Projects]

Just yesterday, a friend in the local Chevelle Club asked when I was going to get back on the Camaro. I told him soon, as I thought it had been 7 months since I last worked on it. Wow, When I found this thread and opened it, May 17...7 months to the day.
Anyway, I was stalled out on this issue with the right inner wheel house to trunk floor mis-match. I've run into this on every floor I've done, but not this much of a gap. I could pull the inner to the floor, but it was barely touching, so I found the scrap of left inner house I had kept and it had the right curvature and incline to match the patch I needed nearly perfectly.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC08532.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC08533.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC08534.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC08535.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC08536.JPG


I started the welding in the corner and was able to clamp the 3 pieces pretty tight underneath, but the top of the patch wanted to stick out away from the house. I didn't want to use a bunch of drill screws to hold it and then have to weld them up, so after welding 3-4 plug holes I quickly reached in while the metal was hot and tapped the patch flat. Dang, I love it when an idea works.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC08539.JPG


Until it got forward of the curve and widened out for the rust cut out I had to hold tight. I finally came up with 2 old rotors we had recently removed from my son's Malibu to provide enough weight to hold the panels tight.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC08537.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC08538.JPG


After welding


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC08540.JPG




https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC08541.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC08542.JPG


1 more rust out patch to make and weld in.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC08543.JPG


I used another piece of the same wheel house to donate that too.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC08544.JPG




https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC08545.JPG


All knocked down and cleaned up. And, yes, I have a LOT more old undercoating to remove with the crud thug...:rolleyes2:


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC08546.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC08547.JPG


One last pic...the NOS gas cap I got from Anthony a few months back...:cool2:


https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/q752/Stillwaterchevs/DSC08548.JPG

[1967 4K]

How many years have you been doing this type work?

[Too Many Projects]

About 13. I bought a 1967 GTO basket case, and then a mig welder, plasma cutter, rotisserie, metal working tools, 2 more tool boxes...:flag:

[Too Many Projects]

I did start back on this a month ago and took all the sheet metal off to prep it. About that time, I was in communication with Tony, in Tulsa, about an NOS tail panel. We came to an agreement and I drove down this week and retrieved it. 1407 miles in 30 hours.
Original box looks like they pulled it out of the Titanic, but the panel is perfect..:cool2:
Thanks Tony
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC08643.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC08644.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC08645.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC08646.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC08647.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds

[Pro Stock John]

Looks great!

[SuperNovaSS]

I have to ask, with 30 hours of travel plus fuel, why don’t you trust a shipper like UPS with double boxing and insurance? In my experience, that would be 100-200. Even at $10 an hour for labor you are at $300 plus fuel cost. You are worth a lot more than $10 an hour! I think that less than minimum wage now.

Jason

[Too Many Projects]

My CR-V gets 28 mpg, so, yeah, I did go thru almost $300 in fuel. At $200 to ship and have a rare part lost or destroyed by UPS or FedEx, for $100 more, I'd rather go get parts myself. Sure, I MAY get refunded for the part, if they lose or destroy it, but how many more NOS parts are out there ?
I've had a lot of stuff shipped to me over the years and I don't trust any of the shippers to give a damn about anything they handle anymore.
The adventure of going to get parts is just part of the story of rebuilding the car too.

[Pro Stock John]

I like road trips too. I also have to say most of the times parts are not as nice as I expect, so I want to lay eyes on them or have a local buddy do that.

[Too Many Projects]

Well, I got to got to FL for 2 weeks, but that's about 2 months short for avoiding the cold up here. :frown:

Anyway, back on the Camaro. After agonizing for days/hours over the fit and alignment of the truck floor/tail panel brace and the tail panel and quarter fit, I finally just said it's about as perfect as I can get it. I prepped and got it welded on.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09106.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09107.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds


Drill screws and clamps gets it tight to the trunk floor and frame rails/tank braces.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09108.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09109.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds


I'm going to spot weld the top flange to the trunk floor to avoid needing to dress welds and hide them with sealer. Only issue is, my spot welder is at work and I'm not motivated enough to make a 60 mile round trip to fetch it this weekend. I'll get it home next week, as I work Mon-Wed.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09110.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds

[Lynn]

I get it. I bought an antique gauge tester about 14 years ago. Post Office lost it.

Price was only $35, so not even worth my time to fill out a claim. Have not seen another one since.

Few months ago I drove to far SE OK to pick up an old Sun VAT. Took me almost 10 hours to go pick up a part I paid $17 for.

Speaking of long distance, there HAS to be someone closer to Thermopois Wy. This Sun Distributor machine is still sitting at $2.50. Would be a 29 hour round trip for me.

Therhttps://www.publicsurplus.com/sms/auction/view?auc=2977657

[Too Many Projects]

Time/distance to the Sun machine for me is the same. ~950 miles/14 hours each way. The last ~100 miles or so on US 16 looks like a blast to drive thru the mountains with switchbacks and all....just not in the winter.

[Too Many Projects]

Now that the lower brace isn't coming out again, it was time to weld on the right trunk drop/extension.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09120.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09121.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds


Marked where it would get welded, cleaned the edp off and shot some weld thru primer on. The extension tab is to extend it out beyond the q-panel for welding, as it was too short. I sprayed that with cold galvanizing paint.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09122.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09123.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds


As always, I clamp every weld tight for a good fit and clean weld.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09125.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds


With that done, I went back to prepping the q-p. I welded the side/pillar brace on. I then shot all the dressed welds with the cold galvanizing.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09126.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09129.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds


Located and installed 2 drill screw studs for the window trim.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09130.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds


After spending a couple hours, tweaking and moving the q-p around, I FINALLY got the fit I was after. Previously the back was 1/4" below the trunk lid when that was even with the left side. Drove me nuts. It's pretty darn close now...:grin:


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09131.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09132.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09133.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds


I put the latch on and worked on getting the door to fit the new panel. Door gap is better and good enough to work with from here.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09134.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds


Getting it flush was a bit time consuming. It was twisted all out of shape from the previous q-p skin replacement in it's early life. I'm pleased with it now. Could always be better, but, again it's good enough to move on from for now.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09135.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds


This is what it had before. The top of the door was pushed in as far as it would go to try to match the badly installed skin. It had to be twisted/pulled back out to be flush with the new panel.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC07243.JPG %3Fwidth%3D450%26amp%3Bheight%3D278%26amp%3Bcrop%3 Dfill

[dykstra]

Looking good Mitch!

[Too Many Projects]

Brought my spot welder home from work yesterday and got the rear brace to trunk floor flange welded today.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09155.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09156.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds


41 welds should hold that panel in place...:grin:


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09157.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds


Then I cleaned up the mig welds with a disc and went over everything with wax and grease remover and hit it twice with the galvanized zinc paint to prevent rust.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09158.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds


https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/q752/Stillwaterchevs/DSC09159.JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

[Too Many Projects]

I'm running out of excuses to not install the q-panel. I'm apprehensive about screwing this up and am procrastinating terribly. I decided to waste some time and spot welded the bumper reinforcement to the panel.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09184.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09185.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds

After that I couldn't come up with anymore things I needed to do before removal and final prep, so I removed it and did more sanding off of paint in areas that will get welded. I cleaned all the weld thru primer off and painted the bracket and then it was time. No more excuses...:no:
I brought a tube of bonding glue home from work for the drip rail and got that all set up and applied a small bead to both the panel and car and put the panel in place. Once I had it where I thought it was good, I clamped the rail to compress the glue. Well, the panel slid forward and eliminated the gap at the door...:tongue: I removed the clamps, reposition the panel and then used drill screws to hold the panel in place and re-clamped the drip edge.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09187.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09189.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09190.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09191.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds

The frame/body tech at work said I had 60 minutes to move the panel around before the glue would start setting and 90 minutes until it wouldn't move at all. I had the panel firmly screwed and clamped in place in 15 minutes and it was noon, so I went in for an extended lunch of 90 minutes.

When I came back out, I spot welded the B pillar while constantly checking the door gap.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09192.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds

Door still closed nice with a good gap, so welded the bottom flange to the rocker.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09193.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds

Proceeded to weld the inner reinforcement/latch panel to the inner structure.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09194.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds

The door now closes with a slight push from about an inch open. With the bad misalignment before, that door needed a bit of a slam to get to close. Very happy with the fit.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09195.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds

Moved on to the roof seam and welded that all up.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09196.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds

As always, drill screws and clamps for a tight fit.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09197.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09200.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds

I still need to do the welding to the inner structure inside, but that will require a bit of persuasion to get tight and I don't want to disturb the glue for 72 hours, so is for a later date.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09201.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds

Likewise with the welding at the bottom to the rocker inside the quarter structure. That is always a pita and I was making good progress on the outside, so skipped that until I do the roof.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09202.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds

So, changed out the ends on the spot welder to do the wheel house.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09203.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09206.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09205.JPG %3Fwidth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit% 3Dbounds

[scuncio]

Nice work! Wish I had that selection of tools...I will be doing quarters and outer wheelhouses on my '68 next winter.

[Lynn]

"I'm running out of excuses to not [fill in the blank]. I'm apprehensive about screwing this up and am procrastinating terribly."

Isn't that the truth.

Congrats on getting over the hump.

[dykstra]

Coming along nicely Mitch!

[Too Many Projects]

Been a while since an update. Progress has been slow, as I was now procrastinating on the final fit of the NOS tail panel, when I realized it would be MUCH easier to replace the extension panel without the tail panel in the way. SO, I successfully avoided the tail panel for a while, again... :grin:
I used a cut off wheel to remove the bulk of the panel for better access to the spot welds. I removed them with the 1991 stone grinder.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09207.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09208.JPG


And this is a California car.... a coastal car. Still WAYYYY better than anything from the Midwest to restore.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09209.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09210.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09211.JPG


I did run the crud thug with descaler wire wheel on this and then soaked it with rust converter before the new panel was installed.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09212.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09213.JPG


Out of the box, it was a little wide. The trunk lid to quarters gap is already wider than I'd really like, so did a little hammer forming to get this panel to fit inside.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09215.JPG


Well, it finally dropped in, but the trunk seal gutter isn't very well shaped. Slice and dice and hammer form them too.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09216.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09217.JPG


Got all 4 corners to lay flat with the quarters.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09272.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09273.JPG

[Too Many Projects]

Been a long time since I had much to post about this project.
I did get the extension panel on last April. The window flange was welded but I panel bonded the seal channel and the end flanges at the quarter.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09306.JPG


Then I got goofy and decided to attempt to replicate the brazing of the corners. I learned how to braze in HS shop class....over 50 yrs ago....and that was about the last time I did it, so not the best job, but I'll keep practicing.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09318.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09317.JPG


In August of 2019, I drove to Buffalo, NY for an NOS RS left fender. While I was in MI for the inaugural MCACN summer show, I continued on Eastward to Marysville and bought the matching right side...:cool2:


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09439.JPG


I did nothing on the car until a few weeks ago, as summer and fall duties take most of my time, along with a double hernia I had to deal with for 6 weeks.

It was time to finish fitting the NOS tail panel and I thought I had it close last April, but I still spent another 8 hours, or so, agonizing over it and making a few tweaks.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09634.JPG


One of my biggest hangups was needing to cut out the reverse light holes and I had to just get beyond that.
There was another Granada Gold '67 featured at MCACN that really got me going again and when I got home I marked all the holes I needed to make for plug welding, stripped paint off them and the spot weld areas and welded it on.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09631_kh4 Vor1e3kza4JXbgNFdDQ.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09639.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09640.JPG


I bolted the bumper brackets on to aid in pulling the panel tight to the floor and support panel behind it.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09657.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09655.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09652.JPG

[Too Many Projects]

This is what got me motivated again. The build tag date is, actually, the week before mine was made at the LA plant..:cool2:

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09705.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09706.JPG

When I removed the tail panel, I was "assuming" I would use my AMD that has the reverse light holes stamped in it, so I wasn't concerned about cutting thru the factory hole. Now, this is what I have to determine the correct location. The marks on the panel are from laying the AMD on it and tracing. They were quite close, but the panel must have shifted during the tracing as the left side was off by 3/8". After another couple hours of measuring and agonizing, I finally drilled the corners and made the cuts. I deliberately made the hole too small to final fit with a 2" disc sander and once that was done, I was relieved to see the lamp fall right in the backing plate holes.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09727.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09726.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09728.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09731.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09729.JPG

Fit the tail light to see if it appeared centered.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09732.JPG

After getting the right side cut in, which took more work, as the backer holes were off a little, I just HAD to mock it all up to see it. I haven't seen the car this assembled for over 4 years.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09735.JPG

Not much left of the original sheet metal anymore. The right q-panel is NOS, as is the tail panel, but the extension, left skin and backer panel are all AMD, as well as the unseen 1 piece trunk floor and right trunk extension/drop.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09736.JPG

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09738.JPG

Gas cap is NOS from Anthony a while back.
The tail panel on the car had been replaced and sectioned in thru the middle of the left tail light. The cable retainer for the cap was bolted thru the left, lower neck mounting hole and I'm wondering if that is correct, or just a handy place for the hacker to install it ? And, yes, the tail panel and right quarter panel repair were a major hack job, with much of the original panels still under the replacements that were brazed on over them.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09733.JPG

None of the holes on the NOS panel are punched large enough for the retainer to fit thru. Hoping someone knows what the correct location was.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09734.JPG

[Steve Shauger]

Hi Mitch here are the pics you requested. LMK if you need others. Taken on my 67 L78 survivor

[Too Many Projects]

After I got the reverse light holes made, I moved on to the trunk latch bracket. This is after a week soaking in Evaporust to soften the black paint sprayed over the spatter and the spatter itself. During test fitting, I discovered this was still twisted from the crash too and had to bend it around to fit straight.



https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09747.JPG %3Fheight%3D480%26amp%3Bwidth%3D640%26amp%3Bqualit y%3D100

After shooting with SPI epoxy.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09751.JPG %3Fheight%3D480%26amp%3Bwidth%3D640%26amp%3Bqualit y%3D100

I was able to spot weld the top to avoid welding and cleaning that in the seal channel.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09761.JPG %3Fheight%3D480%26amp%3Bwidth%3D640%26amp%3Bqualit y%3D100

Threw some sloppy welds on the bottom, to mimic the factory ones I cut out...:grin:


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09763.JPG %3Fheight%3D480%26amp%3Bwidth%3D640%26amp%3Bqualit y%3D100

Then I cut off the rusted right rain gutter...


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09794.JPG %3Fheight%3D0%26amp%3Bwidth%3D0%26amp%3Bquality%3D 100



https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09796.JPG %3Fheight%3D0%26amp%3Bwidth%3D0%26amp%3Bquality%3D 100

Went at it with the crud thug for an hour and chewed all the rust off.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09795.JPG %3Fheight%3D0%26amp%3Bwidth%3D0%26amp%3Bquality%3D 100

Bought a set of Dynacorn gutters.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09785.JPG %3Fheight%3D0%26amp%3Bwidth%3D0%26amp%3Bquality%3D 100

Cut it down to fit what I had removed.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09798.JPG %3Fheight%3D0%26amp%3Bwidth%3D0%26amp%3Bquality%3D 100

Cut the flange that would have gone under the roof to fit below the existing flange for mounting.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09800.JPG %3Fheight%3D0%26amp%3Bwidth%3D0%26amp%3Bquality%3D 100



It fit and followed the roof very well.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09799.JPG %3Fheight%3D0%26amp%3Bwidth%3D0%26amp%3Bquality%3D 100

This will get butt welded after the panel bond cement cures.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09802.JPG %3Fheight%3D0%26amp%3Bwidth%3D0%26amp%3Bquality%3D 100

I forgot to take a pic with all the clamps on. I had 9 clamps holding it in place. It is very sturdy after curing.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09803.JPG %3Fheight%3D0%26amp%3Bwidth%3D0%26amp%3Bquality%3D 100



https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09804.JPG %3Fheight%3D0%26amp%3Bwidth%3D0%26amp%3Bquality%3D 100

[Too Many Projects]

I have a friend who owned a body repair business for 40 yrs, who retired and sold the business a year ago. His wife passed from Dementia a few months back and he's trying to find things to do to keep himself occupied. He ASKED if he could come over and work on the Camaro. I didn't turn him down. He's been production all his life and I had to work on him to slow down and relax. This is RESTORATION work and there is no time limit. I'll just post some progress pics of the last few weeks.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09825.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09856.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC09858.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00038.JPG

The roof was a mess. It had a lot of rust popping thru the old paint and was blistered from the previous person using a disc grinder to go after the deep rust. I cleaned nearly all the rust out of the pits with my crud thug and made the blisters a little worse...:hmmm: There's quite a few hours in that roof here and we did more before sealer/primer. In reality, I should have replaced the roof skin, but it is what it is now.



https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00039.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00040.JPG


Today, we got it in the first real coat of SPI primer/sealer and got to see all the little "stuff' we still need to do better on, but it isn't as much of a multi colored mutt anymore.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00041.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00042.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00043.JPG

[Lynn]

I think you need to send you friend down my way. I can find things for him to do.

You made this statement on page one or two. I don't remember seeing the update.


"That turned into the usual repairs but I tried a product, new to me, that was supposed to be the greatest at stopping and sealing any future rust. More on that time consuming fail later."

I am a firm believer that you don't seal rust. You cut it out and replace it. This thread is making me tired. Also makes me thankful for the 99% rust free body on my 69 Z/28 as well as the projects I have lined up. I just don't buy rusty ones.

[dykstra]

Great job Mitch, having the car in primer has to feel good.

[Too Many Projects]

That primer was just the first, "let's see how well we are doing with the chemical filler". The left quarter skin took a LOT more filler than I ever believed it needed to look good, but it does look good. We now have the right sail panel where we are happy with it. The NOS quarter had been around to swap meets and being loaded and unloaded from trailers and had numerous small dents along the side. That took a bunch of filler and time to get back flat too. Bodyman wants to get the whole back half in primer now, but I needed to finish the trunk seal gutter clean up and seam seal. I, also, stripped the interior quarter panels to bare and primed them. The left side had an old dent that I tried to ignore, but after primer, I had to fill it. Today was final sand, clean and prep for an attempt at shooting primer into the seal gutter, getting the extension panel covered and all the interior metal too.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00119.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00120.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00122.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00121.JPG

[scuncio]

Looking really good.

[Too Many Projects]

Looking really good.
Thanks, Tony. Been a very slow, labor intensive process, but happy that it won't be sitting all summer in bare metal. Right about now, I'm wishing I could be one of those check writers... LOL

[Lynn]

Thanks, Tony. Been a very slow, labor intensive process, but happy that it won't be sitting all summer in bare metal. Right about now, I'm wishing I could be one of those check writers... LOL

But... when you are done it is so much more satisfying. At least that's what I keep telling myself.

[Too Many Projects]

Hopefully what I did today will feel satisfying when I wet sand the interior for color. Looks OK for a beginner...:dunno:

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00124.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00125.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00126.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00128.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00127.JPG

[dustinm]

Looks good Mitch!!!

[Too Many Projects]

The temp in my shop is on the cool side to paint in at 65 degrees and I turned it down to 62 for 2 days after this application, knowing the SPI would flow out better as it cured and the cool temp slowed that process even more. I didn't take any pics, but I was super pleased with the end result. The interior panels are nearly texture free.
I knew the extension panel wasn't going to be as good, as I ran out of paint on that before I got the coverage I wanted, still after 2 days, it was much better than right after application and I have already sanded out the minor texture and trash and it looks great. Still prepping for the overall shoot of the roof and back half, hopefully in the next couple days, with the weather getting into the 70's !

[1967 4K]

What color are you going to paint this car? You’ve probably said earlier but I don’t recall?

Lookin good 👍

[RPOLS3]

Looks great Mitch!

[Too Many Projects]

What color are you going to paint this car? You’ve probably said earlier but I don’t recall?

Lookin good 👍
Original color, Granada Gold :cool2:

I rebuilt both hinges and painted them with R-M single stage.


https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/q752/Stillwaterchevs/DSC00075.JPG

[Too Many Projects]

2 weeks ago today, we woke up to 10" of wet, heavy snow and hundreds of limbs and branches down in the area from the overnight freezing rain and blizzard condition winds. We, also, went without electric power for 20 hours, as crews had many lines down around the entire greater metro Twin City area. I have a generator that we ran for most of that time and had no discomfort from the cold or loss of food in the fridge and we could flush the toilet and shower, since we are on a private well here.
Last week....we were in the mid 70's to mid 80's !!! Absolutely unreal and ALL the new snow and the 8" still there from the winter was gone in 5 days.
SO, I got busy sanding all the previous primer down to remove texture and got the car ready for an over-all shoot. I've painted a number of individual panels in the past, but nothing this big at one time. It was quite challenging and the paint is a 40 footer, but it's all protected and one color.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00135.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00136.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00141.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00139.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00140.JPG

[Too Many Projects]

Back in February, I sent both doors and the trunk lid to Restoration Specialists in Franklin, WI for chemical stripping and EDP dipping. I picked it all up last week and to say I was shocked and depressed is an understatement. I can't believe this right door looked like this under the paint. I didn't notice this on the inside while removing all the glass runs either...how the heck did I miss this ???

I knew the left door has a crease issue from seeing the tell tale fingers of bondo inside the door near the lock, but it, too, is much worse than suspected.

Does a pair of straight, no rust issue, '67 doors even exist anywhere ?

Pics are on my phone and no way to retrieve them, other than to send to my wife's phone and she emails them to my desktop. I don't have email activated on my phone.
Right door "dent"...:shocked:

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00031.jpg

[dustinm]

Well that is unfortunate. Does it also have rust damage?

[Too Many Projects]

No, both doors and lid have NO rust, just a lot of damage and old grinding gouges.

[Too Many Projects]

Been a long since an update. I did metal work both of the doors back to something acceptable and then layed on the filler. With the help of my body guy, they are quite decent. I should take some pics...
I didn't have time to work on this for the past several months and only recently started giving it some attention. The trunk has been done except for caulk for a long time and I, finally, did that Sunday and painted it today. I REALLY don't like painting black. It's so difficult to see coverage and stripping and in the trunk was especially bad. I knew I had to do something to get the overspray out quickly to see what I was doing, so rigged up my air cleaner to the window.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00579.JPG


I sealed off the other openings in the body so it would draw air thru the trunk and it worked great. I sprayed 24 oz of paint in there and this is the mask I wore. No black paint to speak of on it.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00580.JPG


I used my little 9 oz touch up gun and with the hose attached was still too tall to really work easily in there. I need to find a 90 degree adapter for the end of the gun to turn the filter/regulator 90 degrees.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00581.JPG


Paint is only about 15 minutes old, so still rather shiny. It dulls down to a very nice semi gloss when cured.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00575.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00576.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00578.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00577.JPG

[Zman1969]

Great job Mitch your so close now! wished you lived closer lol

[Too Many Projects]

Still plugging along, slowly. I've never been happy about the large gap between the trunk lid and tail panel on these cars, so took a length of 1/8" wire and welded it across the lip.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00602.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00606.JPG

Inside...

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00609.JPG

Initial knockdown with grinder...

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00615.JPG

Then hand filed to shape and test fitting on car.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00616.JPG

Cut the ends and welded the rest up, ground and hand filed again after this.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00619.JPG

[Too Many Projects]

Then it was time to get the inner structure of the doors and trunk lid scuffed, caulked and primed with epoxy.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00630.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00634.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00633.JPG

Little bit of filler work needed on the lip extension, but not bad.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00635.JPG

2.5 hours later and 2 coats, they are ready to sit under the baking heater and cure. I let the first coat gas out for over an hour, as my shop is only 65 degrees and the paint layed out nicely.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00636.JPG

This is my drying system. I line them up right under the indirect heater and leave them alone for 2-3 days. Later this week, they will get jammed with COLOR !!

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00637.JPG

[Too Many Projects]

Ya, Mon, we be jammin'...:laugh:

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00650.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00651.JPG

[69M22Z]

Looks great!!

[Xplantdad]

Awesome!

[scuncio]

Nice work. I wish you lived closer.

[Too Many Projects]

Pulled the clip over the weekend to start the final clean, sand, prep of the cowl for paint. Forgot there was a rust spot under the windshield that was hidden by the fender.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00691.JPG

Started digging and had to pull the windshield, which was so heavily glued in with urethane that it was broken all to heck by the time I got it cut loose. I never suspected there was a serious issue with this window channel, as it all looked good, but a very talented urethane artist covered it all up while installing the windshield. What a friggen mess this turned into.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00692.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00693.JPG

I just ordered a complete glass set from Auto city Glass and new dash panel, pad, GM approved wheel opening moldings and other assorted small goods from Camaro Central...ouch.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00694.JPG

[Xplantdad]

Wow!!:shocked:

[Lynn]

Mitch: Don't you know you are supposed to just cover all that up, paint it all purdy, then flip it to some unsuspecting newbie?

[L_e_e]

I spy with my little eye a Marantz 2226?

[dustinm]

Well Mitch, you posted that at 11:13, I expect you have it all fixed by now? :wink:

[big gear head]

Wow, too bad that isn't a '67 Chevelle. I've got a perfect dash for one of those.

[scuncio]

Wild, I never would've expected that. You can do it!

[Too Many Projects]

Lynn, I guess I'm the newbie. I bought it unsuspecting this was an issue 16 years ago.

Lee, yup, heck of a shop radio. Got it for free 30 years ago. Wife says she can hear the bass in the house 40 ft from the shop...:cool2:

Dustin, I ordered a new dash panel this morning and cut off the glass channel to see how bad the 2 layers of inner/outer cowl was under it. Not good. Major surgery needed here.

Freddie, YES, if I could find a good donor, this would be a walk in the park.

Thanks for the confidence, Tony. I will get it repaired, but it sure is a setback I wasn't expecting.

[Too Many Projects]

after a conversation with Dustin, who has a good friend who is an AMD dealer and installer, I purchased an OER cowl assembly from Jegs. His friend said it is a good fitting part with no fitment issues with the windshield. His friend advised I check Jegs as they sell them very reasonably and he was right. The price for the assembly WITH free shipping was less than many places wanted for just the top cowl panel. Jegs did add an over size fee..... $10 ! :laugh:Unbelievable deal to me.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.jegs.com%2Fimages% 2Fphotos%2F600%2F691%2F691-c11021.jpg


I'll be picking up the glass set tomorrow and this may be here by the weekend.

With that all happening so quickly, I got to work on the car. The hole in the left A pillar brace was cut out, a patch formed and welded in.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00695.JPG

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00701.JPG

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00703.JPG

The right side is solid enough to leave, just did an initial clean up with the stone wheel.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00704.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00705.JPG

[hogdaddy]

That AMD looks like a nice piece and probably the best for that repair.

[Too Many Projects]

It's an OER brand, which is what AMD sells, as they don't have their own tooling for this. The dealer said it's actually made by CHL and sold to OER...:wink: I guess I'll see what stickers are on it when it gets here.

[dustinm]

Yes its a CHL piece, you would need a special decoder ring to figure out who makes what and if it fits/functions correctly... I dont even try to follow sheetmetal anymore - I let Spencer keep tabs on all that, as fast as he rattles it all off.

With Spencer's blessing and we all know the reality of finding a good donor cowl for a 67 Camaro Im glad I could help Mitch through this small hurdle.

[1967Z28]

Good move, Mitch. You did the right thing.

[Too Many Projects]

Well, the CHL cowl assembly got here at 11:45, so after lunch I took it out to the shop and got to work. I attached the cowl grille to see where I wanted to cut this in.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00708.JPG

I drew a line around the grille and then used 1.250 wide tape to draw another inside that for the cut line.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00709.JPG

About 15 minutes later, half of the ugly was gone. I was going to cut it thru the vent holes but I wasn't certain how close they would line up so cutting it here, the seam will be completely hidden under the grille.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00710.JPG

I then clamped the cut off onto the new piece and marked that to cut. I haven't cut out the lower cowl yet, so I cut the new one long enough to trim back to fit....hopefully.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00711.JPG




The new piece is quite accurate, except for the grille screw holes. 2 are good, but a third one is off 1/4" and the fourth....well, I don't know what happened here. If they are all getting stamped like this, someone needs to fix that die. Oh, well, minor issue it fix.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00712.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00715.JPG

Had to cut thru the column brace to get enough of the lower cowl.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00716.JPG

There almost done...:wink:

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00717.JPG

[Too Many Projects]

I'm REALLY slow at trimming away the extra material to get a donor to drop in place and after 4 hours, this does look quite good.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00718.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00719.JPG

I'm going to leave the slight overlap on the lower cowl panel. It's going to be challenging enough to get this welded full width and having some overlap will make the seam sealing a little better.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00721.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00722.JPG

The top lip, that is immediately under the dash panel, is way too straight and will need much massaging to get it to lay down flat, like the original.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00723.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00724.JPG


.

[Lynn]

Looking good. Boy, does this make me thankful for how little rust I had to deal with my my 69 Z/28.

[Too Many Projects]

This mornings endeavors. I secured the panel while clamped, with drill screws so I can put it right back in the same place after every removal for fitting, prepping, etc.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00729.JPG

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00728.JPG

This is the left corner, that is badly out of place for the dash panel.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00727.JPG

I removed the panel and made a pie cut 8" long and 3/8" wide at the outside, tapering it to the inside.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00730.JPG

Clamped it tight and drill screwed it in place.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00731.JPG

That's the first modification. The entire lip needs to come down for the dash to lay on top, but after tapping the end down, it started to buckle, which I expected. Bending that lip down decreases the radius and the extra metal has to go somewhere. I'll need to make pie cut reliefs every 3-4 inches to get it to cooperate...:wink:

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00732.JPG

Before...

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00727.JPG


.

[Too Many Projects]

After a little more relocation work on the right corner, I did the cuts in the lip, bent them down and set it back in. The dash is sitting there very lightly touching the channel. I'm very pleased that it fits this well but the real test will be tomorrow when I set the windshield in it. I was going to do that today, but neglected to bring my glass suction cup handles into the heated shop from the back storage room, which is about minus 4 degrees today. They'll be warm in the morning.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00733.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00735.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00734.JPG
..

[Too Many Projects]

Shortly after the last pics, we went to FL for 4 weeks, including the 5 days driving. My wife rode down but flew back, so I took a little detour to Richmond, KY on my way home.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FIMG_20240223 _091413798_HDR.jpg

Quite the front room "shop" they have...:ooo:

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FIMG_20240223 _091457310.jpg

I now have a new upper dash panel and dash pad for the car. Over the next few weeks, I hope to have this project done and painted. THEN, I can get started on fitting the NOS fenders I thought I was going to do several weeks ago...:rolleyes:

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FIMG_20240225 _140433379_HDR.jpg

My body guy has been bugging me to get wheel opening trim so we can drill the holes before going any further with paint, so I picked up the GM set that has the step in the rear trims to follow the body line at the lower door and quarter. Also grabbed a few small items to help fill needs down the road. With the crazy shipping costs of oversize items now, I saved about $100, so the few extra miles and gas, as well as getting to see the place and talk with them, was well worth it.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FIMG_20240225 _141234113.jpg

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FIMG_20240225 _141303953.jpg

[Too Many Projects]

Removed the top dash panel. I don't like using spot weld drills when I want to save/use the panel below what I am removing. My preferred method is a grinding wheel. I grind around the perimeter of the spot and try to not cut into the substrate at all, or very little.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00840.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00841.JPG

I use the grinder about the same way I mig weld, using short bursts and checking the color of the metal to "see" where the spot is and work around it until the metal is very thin and I can pop it off with a screw driver.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00843.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00842.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00844.JPG

There were about 16 spot welds and it took about 15 minutes to remove them all. Less time than using a drill and stopping to observe that progress to prevent drilling thru the substrate panel.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00845.JPG

This is what I use... That wheel was used when I started and shows almost no wear after all that

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00847.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00848.JPG

After this, I used a 2" disc sander with 120 and cleaned up the spots, removing any of the top panel that was left behind.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00846.JPG

It does make a MUCH bigger mess than drilling. I use a shop vac with a HEPA bag filter inside. I can vacuum filler dust and dried overspray and it never comes out the exhaust.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00849.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00850.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00851.JPG

It does fit and line up nicely, but It would be even better if the pre-punched holes for the trim clips and glass stops lined up with the holes in the cowl panel. It may well be the cowl that is off, as 3 of the 4 holes for the cowl grill aren't accurate either. Just a little more work later to drill the holes in the correct places.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00852.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00853.JPG

[Too Many Projects]

After this, I wanted to finish sanding/cleaning/prepping to paint inside the cowl before I welded the top cowl panel patch on. I grabbed my Dent Fix Eliminator, otherwise commonly known as a crud thug, attached the air hose, depressed the lever and......nothing. Just air coming out the exhaust. Thing worked just fine a month ago and now nothing. I couldn't turn the wire wheel by hand, so knew something was seized up....dang. Long story, short, it took 45 minutes just to get the danged spring pin out of the handle to take this apart. I REALLY need to get a better set of small punches and I'll leave that part of the story alone. Anyway, I had an exploded view page in the kit and used that to figure out how to take it apart. It must have had moisture in it from the last time I used it and the vanes on the rotor stuck to the cylinder. I was able to work it enough to free it up and get it working again. That whole process consumed the last 1.5 hours of my time for this project last evening. Today, I used it and got everything cleaned up, papered and sprayed with SPI epoxy primer/sealer. Tomorrow will get Limco single stage color and then the cowl top will get welded on. Are all y'all bored to tears yet...:grin:


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00855.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00856.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00857.JPG

[Too Many Projects]

Went back out at 7 and shot the color on. There's a LOT more paint in that cowl than GM ever got, but they didn't have the cowl top off for access either.
I can start the final fitting and welding in of the cowl section right away tomorrow.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00858.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00859.JPG

[dykstra]

Looking great Mitch! Probably a relief to have that unexpected bump in the road finished.

[Too Many Projects]

There was a lot more to this project. I still had to weld the replacement cowl piece in and the dash top on.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00866_tyA 87dTm4tNhxNLQVvDNmF.JPG

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00870_e9i mA87FDBy1EtTszaiehN.JPG

Steering column/instrument panel brace. It had 15 spot welds on it, but only THREE were holding. None of the rest penetrated. It's not going to fall off now..

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00872_crY 1aAWm7NpKCsKNRXcPtx.JPG

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00877_eV2 6rFJpPXG8frax3XzwHU.JPG

All done and working on sanding the entire instrument panel for paint.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00891.JPG


https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/q752/Stillwaterchevs/DSC00896.JPG

[scuncio]

Nice work.

[69M22Z]

Wow!! Nice!!

[Too Many Projects]

That was a couple weeks ago and I since removed the rear axle and springs assembly to clean and prep the new trunk floor for paint. THAT was a bear, laying on a creeper and getting as wet as the car. I still need to do finish grinding of welds in tight areas and sand them.
Soooo, I gave in and did what I said for 15 years I wasn't going to do with this car...

Went out in the back shed and dug out the rotisserie...

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00907.JPG


I bought this from a guy who built it to restore a '69 Firebird. It came with these adapters for the rear spring mounts, so I thought this would be a quick knockdown from the arms I built for the '67 GTO and my '66 Chevelle.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00908.JPG

I spent 3 HOURS trying to figure out how he had those rear arms on the lifts, because no mater how I arranged the drilled holes he made they would NOT line up...:confused2:
I finally gave in and just drilled new holes for them to fit the car and moved on.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00912.JPG

I have 6' rectangle tubes to fit on the forks for this stuff.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00915.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00916.JPG

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00917.JPG

[Too Many Projects]

This was an interesting discovery, especially since I've had this driveshaft out for 3 engine/trans changes over the years. I never noticed this before...:eek2:

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00909.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00910.JPG
.

[67since67]

Oh my Mitch..:eek2:.....

Nice work by the way :biggthumpup:

[dykstra]

Lookin good Mitch!!

[Too Many Projects]

I'm officially upside down on this project now...:laugh:

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00980.JPG

As I was cleaning the floor of 50+ yrs of oil and dirt, I found this blue/grey color paint. I had known it was there from the install of the left rear foorwell 5 years previous. It is on the entire floor and under every piece of bracketry that was installed after the car would have completed the paint process. I have documented this very extensively with color photos for future reference. In asking for info on the color, I kept getting doubters that it was factory and no real help, other than a few people replying, yes, they had a first gen out of LOS that had that color and couldn't find info either, so just painted theirs black during restoration. Anyway, I've been falsely accused of being overly persistent at times, so decided to live up to that and loaded the car on the roll back and transported it to my local PPG jobber for a paint read to get something close to repaint with.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00956.JPG

After getting the mix the next day, I sanded some of the new black trunk floor, shot it with SPI grey epoxy and then did a spray out of the paint. I knew before I even opened the can that it was wrong, as it defaulted to an ISUZU silver color, but I needed a test spray to see it and decide what to do with the color from there.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00957.JPG

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00958.JPG

Unfortunately, the guy that does the tinting only works 2 days a week and I had to wait until the next Wednesday to go back. In the interim, I used a color swatch set that my son has from his days at Sherwin Williams, custom mixing paint. We found a color that was VERY close to the original, so I went to the local SW store and got 2 of those swatches to make an area large enough for the color reader and went back to the jobber on Wednesday. I showed him the pics on my phone and he said there was no way for him to get the grey to what I needed and that the reader didn't work properly, so he calibrated it and read the swatches. It came up with a completely different code that was close but still off. By removing equal amounts of black and white from the formula, he was able to add blue and it is very close to the samples. It was a little too blue, but by adding a small amount of the previous grey into it, I was able to get this color.
I'd like to add, that Carl, the jobber guy, said it was clearly an error with the reader and made up a whole new batch and played with tinting and comparing to the samples for almost an hour at NO CHARGE !! I couldn't thank him enough for his help


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00959.JPG

At this point, I'm OK with the color and it will be the entire floor, so not trying to get a perfect match to blend in. I proceeded to look all my blasting paraphernalia and after 7 hours of digging thru boxes and on shelves, I couldn't find the screen to reuse the media or replacement ceramic nozzles for the dead man valve, so they will be here this next week. Not a big disappointment for loss of time, as it has been cloudy/rainy and windy here and not conducive to blasting in the driveway. Looks like Wednesday this week will be the day.

[Too Many Projects]

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2F20240501_134 426.jpg

Seam sealed and papered for color.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00986.JPG

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00989.JPG

Looks completely different under the lights. Waiting on clear coat and then undercoat the wheel wells.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00990.JPG

[dykstra]

Boy is it coming together nicely Mitch!!

[Too Many Projects]

Today's project involved getting paint on the frame rail under the roto arm. I first held the body on just the jack stands, but they were a bit too wobbly for my liking. I held slight pressure under the torque boxes with the pallet and a couple 2x4's for stability.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00991.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00992.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00993.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00994.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00995.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC00997.JPG

[1967Z28]

Is it too late to say the floor plugs should not be painted? :)

[Too Many Projects]

Are you referring to the drain plates, Jon ? They were painted and I have a lot of pics of that before sand blasting.


https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/q752/Stillwaterchevs/DSC00921.JPG

[1967Z28]

Mitch, if yours were originally painted then you did the right thing. Sometimes they were not and I'm not sure that it has been determined if there was a pattern as to when either occurred.

[Too Many Projects]

Thanks, Jon. I even found remnants of paint on the rubber and plastic plugs but most fell off when I removed them. I have new plugs coming, but don't have plans to paint them... LOL All that was under the plastic plugs was the tan colored rust preventive coating after the last body rinse.

[Lynn]

I am officially inspired. Going to work on the Corvette!

[Too Many Projects]

We have had a VERY rainy Spring/Summer so far and I finally got the car outside 2 days ago, to get epoxy sealer/primer on the raw dash/instrument panel. Had a few peeks of sun thru the clouds and it was windier than I would have liked, but ya gotta get stuff done when ya can....
Now to get all the seams sealed up.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC01115_mmu 6jedbst8eACE21MzMUJ.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC01117_orm zuPm5vJPDHCVASyZrMb.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC01118_5We VK7XbF8LjieKJoUoD4A.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC01116_c9a zQSxZ1vcLzJrMEp4zBS.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fq752%2FStillwaterchevs%2FDSC01119_4pt thGiXbRoyzZfUxLsjvW.JPG
.

[scuncio]

Looking great. How did you weld the dash panel at the base of the windshield - were those plug welds or spot welds?

[Too Many Projects]

Most of it I did with the spot welder, you can see the dimples. The left wiper transmission mount prevented me from getting beyond it and there are about 8 plug welds on that side and I think 3-4 on the far right as well.

[Too Many Projects]

I see I dropped the ball on this last June. I did get the front area seam sealed and in an initial coat of color. Then this got forgotten about and neglected during the busy summer until last week. Winter is coming and we're back in the rainy season, so dug out the wheel well moldings and drilled the mounting holes for them. These are the GM authorized moldings and are well worth the cost over the generic ones. The left quarter skin is an AMD fit to most of the original outer house and the right is an NOS full quarter fit to the original outer house. The moldings fit VERY well, with only minor tweaking. These are a softer, more pliable material than the cheap ones and lent themselves to the little shaping they needed easily. I'll be purchasing a set of these for the '70 Chevelle in the near future. Probably be years before I use them, but I'll hedge my bet that cost will have increased by then...:cool2:
Realized I needed to locate and drill the holes for the rs panel in the new quarter too. It was nerve racking to drill the first few holes in NOS metal, but it went really well.

[Derek69SS]

Looking good Mitch! Will we be working on it at Karl's on the 16th?

[Too Many Projects]

I'm bringing the doors and fenders down for that. The right door needs a whisper more filler on the center style line that runs the length of the door. There is a slight low area that creates the illusion of it not being straight. That door was a total shock after being chemically cleaned and EDP dipped. It had a huge dent right on that crease that NO real attempt was made to correct, just slather filler over the entire door to blend...:mad2: That a was an unpleasant 5 hour drive home from Milwaukee and I was so disgusted, I wanted to just chuck the whole car outside and forget it. Karl talked me down a little and I started working the dent out and actually got it about 90%. No pic of that, as I was still on strike from taking pics of it...:laugh:

The fenders are NOS and have been out of boxes for many years. I want to do a light block sand to find dents that we can tap out pdr style to make better and use less filler for a skim coat.

[dykstra]

Love the progress Mitch. Looking forward to seeing y’all at MCACN.

[dykstra]

Any updates Mitch?

[Too Many Projects]

I disassembled the steering column and glass media blasted it all for paint. I'll be taking those pieces and the left door to my body work/painter's place on Friday morning to get the bare parts in primer/sealer. He wants to put the right door, that we did block sand more last month, in high build primer and block again and it should be ready for paint.

We sanded 1 of the NOS fenders at the club meet and it had a few very small dents that I and a pdr guy in the club worked out, but the consensus is, the original edp is not compatible with today's paints and it needs to be removed completely. The fenders will be going to be stripped and dipped in January.

[Too Many Projects]

I got the fenders back from stripping and dipping just before we went to AZ at the end of January. since then, we, body/paint mentor mostly have block sanded the EDP and found a few area he used some filler on to skim over minor imperfections. They are ready for sealer/primer now, but I realized last week i need to drill 13 HOLES in each for emblems and trim ! Yikes ! NOS fenders and I'm afraid to drill in the wrong location. I made templates of the hole patterns from my old fenders and managed to locate them for the V8 flag and 350 emblems, but I am paralyzed to drill the SS emblems at the front. Need help with that. The 3 holes for the rs trim will wait until I can find them and then 2 more for the rocker spear.

Anyway, I helped build the booth in the pics with my mentor. He bought a "prep station" air filtering machine with a small curtain around it, but we expanded it a "bit" to hold much more.

[Too Many Projects]

I used the template to locate the holes on the right fender and it took some hand filing with a round jewelers file to get them straight and level, but they look good.
The string on it is on the body line, but there is no reference as to how far up from that the SS emblems go. References in the AIM are for plains that I have no idea how to locate on the fender.

[1967Z28]

Mitch, I think the measurements are in the assembly manual. The pattern for the holes looks like this.

[Too Many Projects]

Mitch, I think the measurements are in the assembly manual. The pattern for the holes looks like this.
Thanks, Jon, yes they are, but not where to put them from top or bottom, at least that I have figured out. I have my old fenders to copy the hole pattern, just need to know where to put them.

[Lynn]

Would like to see a thread on the booth construction.
Looks pretty cool.

[Too Many Projects]

Would like to see a thread on the booth construction.
Looks pretty cool.
I have very few pics of the construction. Karl has a bunch and I'll see if he can email some to me to post. It's 12X20 and since it is free standing, he went a little crazy with the siding. It's all 2X4 framing and we put 1/2" plywood on the inside and he had almost enough 3/4" sheets left from the construction of the building the booth is inside and used that on the exterior to prevent it from collapsing either way. Pretty certain he could run into it with a truck and all it would do is slide on the floor...:laugh:

[Too Many Projects]

Finally, some visible progress besides drilling holes. The NOS fenders have been blocked with 220 and are now in first 2 coats of sealer/primer. I brought the left door home and put it on the car, as it had a high area just below the style line. There had been a deep crease there that I metal worked out most of the way, but it had too much filler yet and needed to be on the car to be sanded down to match the quarter. Got that done too.
The "prep" booth worked really well. We were supposed to turn the air flow off while spraying but had it on during cleaning and tacking the parts and forgot to turn it off. It doesn't expel the filtered air out of the booth, it blows it out the top of the machine and creates a current that sends it back to the floor and back thru the filters again. Fortunately, I had the room clean enough that it didn't pick up any sizable dirt and drop it on the parts, that we saw. "Feeling" with our hands before block sanding may prove there is some, but it has to be very small.
Overall, happy to be moving forward again.

[Too Many Projects]

Fenders and extensions were blocked with 220 and then 320. Doors were guide coated and blocked again. Header and lower valance had some "imperfections" filled and then blocked out to 320. Then it all was put into final "primer/surfacer" according to the bodyman. At this point, it all comes home and the car needs to have the running gear installed so the panels can be fitted on the wheels. I guess this means we are starting to get ready for color.

Working on the hood(s) and the deck lid. The original hood has sand blast warping and I now have 2 replacement hoods that were supposed to be "good" but after stripping and edp dipping are as rough, if not worse than the original. We are evaluating our next move on those.
Deck lid was a mess, as was every other panel on the car, so not a surprise, but disgusting and a lot of filler, sanding work to make it presentable.

[Lynn]

Looking good. I like when you hit a milestone. Makes you feel like you are actually getting something done.

[Too Many Projects]

Bodyman said "it's time to get the body off the roto and assemble this for panel fit. So yesterday, I "discovered" the front subframe assembly under a lot of plastic I had thrown on to protect it from sanding dust and paint overspray. It still had a lot from before it got covered and I spent a couple hours doing an initial cleanup. I then cleared everything out from around, under and in the body to access it with the fork lift.

This morning, I lifted the body off, broke down the roto and hauled it to the back storage building. After I set the body on the floor, I realized it was perfect to get back to work on the roof, which needs more work and was NOT fun to work on after I put the body on the roto. More on that to come.
I rolled the rear axle outside on a pair of wheel dollies and scraped, wire brushed, soaked with de-greaser and then got my pressure washer running after sitting for 10 years...with OLD gas in the tank...yeah, stupid move, took a couple hours and a butane torch, but it does run again.

[1967 4K]

Cool Tow Motor, is that a single stage mast?

[67since67]

Cool Tow Motor,

I was thinking the same thing. Here's mine, 1948 Clark Clipper, aka a (rail) "Car loader". It will fit through a 36" door.

Sorry for the hyjack Mitch.

[MosportGreen66]

I was thinking the same thing. Here's mine, 1948 Clark Clipper, aka a (rail) "Car loader". It will fit through a 36" door.

Sorry for the hyjack Mitch.

I've seen this thing in the live... it is as nice as everything else Bill owns. I think he even polishes it lolol!

[1967 4K]

Are those five foot forks on the Clark. We always put 6 foot forks on the 5K forks, so handy!

[1967 4K]

Ooops didn’t mean to rob your post Mitch, I’ll hush.

[Too Many Projects]

Anyone notice the car...:laugh:

Lift is a '55 with a flat 4 Willy's converted to propane, like Bills. Unlike Bill's, I wouldn't dare drive mine on his cement. It marks it's territory almost constantly now from a worn hydraulic pump seal and is it a BIOTCH to change, hence it USED to be less expensive to just keep adding oil. Bought a 2 gallon jug at Fleet Farm Tuesday and about fell over... $35 for 2 gallons of hydraulic oil ?? Might be time to upgrade the pump and hoses, but that requires removing the counter weight....:no: Oh, it has no idea what polish is, or even a bath, it's just a tool...:biggthumpup:


I've seen this thing in the live... it is as nice as everything else Bill owns. I think he even polishes it lolol!

Are those five foot forks on the Clark. We always put 6 foot forks on the 5K forks, so handy!
My forks are 4' and I have 2X6 channel extensions for things like this.

[Woodrock]

Camaro is coming along nicely Mitch!

[RPOLS3]

Great progress Mitch!

[scuncio]

Looking good, you’re inspiring me to get mine started.