"Plain Jane" 1970 Nova Build

[Arrowsmith]

I have to start somewhere with the build, so I decided to start at the beginning. I searched for the cleanest 1969 to 1972 Nova I could find. In fact, my evening, after-work "hobby" was searching all sorts of place for the right car. I eventually found the right car in Ohio, but it took me a year or so. A fellow from American Honda found the car and purchased it from the quintessential little old lady owner. When he bought it, the car had just over 12,000 original on the clock. When I bought it, it had just over 13,000 miles. In between, he stripped the car, put it on a rotisserie and detailed it. The exterior paint is now roughly 70% original: The rockers, front fender tops and hood have been lacquer blended. You'll note he lowered the car (cut coils, leaf spring spacers). Here are some photos of how when I first bought it:

And by the way, like some "restored" cars I've worked with in the past, it didn't drive or stop well...but the bones were outstanding:)

https://i.imgur.com/wNf48Uyh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/I86Gimkh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/kf9W11Dh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/s5JaVPBh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/YSYa1fRh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/MEACULdh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/g4QDoeBh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/IvHRoc2h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/25iKkash.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4nT3mRwh.jpg

[img]https://i.imgur.com/JCL1F7ah.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/yp3ICz7h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/JRXzyyAh.jpg

Here's a video link from my Lone Wolf Hot Rods site introducing the car:

[url]https://youtu.be/yHv1a06rgxw (https://imgur.com/KhJIYnV)

The only that really changed in the build plan from that video was the final transmission choice. Finding a streetable synchronized manual that would live behind the big block I built just didn't work out...:)

I'll show build progress in the next batch of pix...

[GMC_Typhoon]

I have to start somewhere with the build, so I decided to start at the beginning. I searched for the cleanest 1969 to 1972 Nova I could find. In fact, my evening, after-work "hobby" was searching all sorts of place for the right car. I eventually found the right car in Ohio, but it took me a year or so. A fellow from American Honda found the car and purchased it from the quintessential little old lady owner. When he bought it, the car had just over 12,000 original on the clock. When I bought it, it had just over 13,000 miles. In between, he stripped the car, put it on a rotisserie and detailed it. The exterior paint is now roughly 70% original: The rockers, front fender tops and hood have been lacquer blended. You'll note he lowered the car (cut coils, leaf spring spacers). Here are some photos of how when I first bought it:

And by the way, like some "restored" cars I've worked with in the past, it didn't drive or stop well...but the bones were outstanding:)

https://i.imgur.com/wNf48Uyh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/I86Gimkh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/kf9W11Dh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/s5JaVPBh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/YSYa1fRh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/MEACULdh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/g4QDoeBh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/IvHRoc2h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/25iKkash.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4nT3mRwh.jpg

[img]https://i.imgur.com/JCL1F7ah.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/yp3ICz7h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/JRXzyyAh.jpg

Here's a video link from my Lone Wolf Hot Rods site introducing the car:

[url]https://youtu.be/yHv1a06rgxw (https://imgur.com/KhJIYnV)

The only that really changed in the build plan from that video was the final transmission choice. Finding a streetable synchronized manual that would live behind the big block I built just didn't work out...:)

I'll show build progress in the next batch of pix...
Looks clean enough to lick.

[markinnaples]

Wow, what a starting point. Looks amazingly clean. Around 1988 my dad bought a 1972 Nova with 16K original miles in Frost Green, 6 cyl, no carpet, AM, but completely bare bones. It drove, unlike you say about yours, amazingly well, and I drove it from Pittsburgh to Erie (about 2.5 hours each way) for my last year in college if there was good weather. I really should have kept that one, but we sold it unfortunately. I thought that one was clean until I saw yours, amazing.

[Arrowsmith]

I'll get more photos and info over the next day or two. Honestly I paid stupid money for a six cylinder car (plenty of people thought I was absolutely nuts), but it was the cleanest example I have ever run across. Plus, while working on it, the clean factor has turned into a huge bonus. Anyway, after I pulled the original six and three speed, I went to work on the engine compartment, brake lines, etc. You'll see that next.

[markjohnson]

Wayne, color me as a Have-To-Know Nancy but I couldn’t help but notice you didn’t include ‘68’s in your Nova search. They’re my personal favorite! Reason?

[Arrowsmith]

Hey Mark! Pretty easy answer..I just like the dash better in the 69 and up cars😉

[lowmile]

Here's what it would look like with the 4sp lever through the floor.

[Arrowsmith]

After driving the Nova for a bit and discovering it had some issues (brakes weren't stellar and the acceleration wasn't exactly awe-inspiring...L-O-L), I decided it was time to get started. This is a photo of it in my old garage on the west coast:

https://i.imgur.com/lxHoI4lh.jpg

This is what the bones were like from the engine compartment side. The undercarriage was and is the same -- clean and nicely painted. Everything was painted individually, including the fasteners.

https://i.imgur.com/wvransTh.jpg

I pointed out in the original "just finished this" post that the rad support is a reproduction. It needed one extra hole drilled, but otherwise fit like a glove. In order to get the support in, much of the front end had to come off, along with the inner fenders. That gave me the opportunity to replace all of the freshly painted hardware with more correct phosphate plated hardware. Here are two photos of the DeWitts "black ice" aluminum rad I selected. It's an awesome high quality piece.

https://i.imgur.com/w7WEsdGh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/UCf5hbXh.jpg

While the front end was apart, I replaced the subframe and rad support bushings with these slick pieces from Detroit Speed (I also used their optional ARP stainless fasteners):

https://i.imgur.com/4cxIlOvh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/xwTapCYh.jpg

The frame mounts were swapped out for correct big block examples. I use AN (aircraft) fasteners where possible.

https://i.imgur.com/XFwofhah.jpg

I removed the heater assembly and replaced it with a correct delete plate. I also used AN fasteners to mount it. The flash shows a color difference between the plate and the firewall, but in normal lighting you can't see the difference. That's a new gutter without the transmission control spark. I stripped a new wire harness back to remove all of the wiring.

https://i.imgur.com/6pMsRvXh.jpg

With the big block rad support, I also included a complete OE-style big block rad mount and shroud arrangement. I had to drill holes for the rubber flap clips but that's about it. Note the bump starter switch. I put them in all of my modified cars, because it makes setting the valves a whole bunch easier.

https://i.imgur.com/MGOp69Th.jpg

Both the ignition and forward wiring harness assemblies were replaced. I also added a set of big block battery cables and a new battery tray. You'll note the wiring harness isn't looped alongside the windshield washer hose. In past builds I've routed the harness out of the way, over the inner fender. I did the same here. I replaced the master cylinder with one for 1969 disc brake Camaro. I might have pictures of the front brakes I can show later, but I used two piece made-in-USA rotors.

https://i.imgur.com/s0sQ7wnh.jpg

This is another look at the engine compartment. I replaced the tie rod sleeves with Hotchkiss billet jobs. The tie rod ends and the idler were replaced. The AN bolts are in "backwards" on the idler arm. I do this to save my skin when working on the car...L-O-L. It's getting closer, but still a bit away from being done...L-O-L:

https://i.imgur.com/lNy88axh.jpg

Here's a link to a 4 minute video on my progress to this point. You'll get more build details in the video:

https://youtu.be/LEG7I-MOwio

Til next time!

[black69]

my first girlfriend had the identical to a tee of this car when we started dating in highschool. that was in 75-76. So the car was only a few years old and was mint mint mint. same color same interior.
Nobody knew back then how desirable they would be today.

Love the build of the car you have.

[John Brown]

The first thing I took note of was the blocked off vent on the far left side of the dash. I had to make one for my 70 Nova when I did a heater delete. :worship:

[Arrowsmith]

Moving along...slowly...L-O-L

I couldn't find a correctly built front cross over brake line plus I needed to plumb and wire the line lock. So...I built all of those lines myself from stainless steel. Hardline and all fittings are from Earl's. This is the completed line lock plumbing. This is one of those "looks easy enough" tasks, but to get it right takes some time:

https://i.imgur.com/Y6R9uc8h.jpg

This is a photo of one of the ways I figure out brake line bends:

https://i.imgur.com/Yi3WQMdh.jpg

Here's one of the "successful" lines (many aren't so successful!):

https://i.imgur.com/CCfvuyKh.jpg

Some of the seemingly simple lines can prove challenging. Case-in-point is this feed line to the line lock. It consumed several mistakes to get it done:

https://i.imgur.com/j3BN1WXh.jpg

I like to use a Weatherpack connector for things like the line lock. If it ever fails, then it's easy to remove and replace.

https://i.imgur.com/nEYAHz7h.jpg

This is a wee bit amusing when I look back at it. Huge mess (in my old garage) building cutting, annealing, bending, flaring line. I prefer to anneal the hard line prior to flaring, hence the need for the MAP gas. Otherwise the line can crack. In addition, I lap the female side of the flares.

https://i.imgur.com/Gt54Y40h.jpg

Here's a couple of photos of the finished brake lines:

https://i.imgur.com/ekkipBjh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/nSdjjB6h.jpg

Another thing I did was to send off the hood hinges, springs, hood latch and catch to Steve Gregori just before he sold Detail Plating. The car originally had these parts nicely painted, but that bugged me :). I also replaced/added a number of ground straps.

https://i.imgur.com/bOUlsAbh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Yl6GPaZh.jpg

This link will take you to a video that details the tools/equipment I use to build brake lines. There are a number of tools, ideas and tips you might not consider at first glance:

https://youtu.be/_9dibgkmPoU

That's a wrap for this segment. I'll be back...L-O-L

[CamaroNOS]

This is a little piece of artwork. Just love your detail.

Paul

[Andy]

Very clean build! Look forward to seeing more of the progress! Seeing this car makes me REALLY miss my old 72 Nova.

[Arrowsmith]

When I was planning this car, one thing I wanted to try and stay away from was a traction bar on the rear springs. In another life, I was a Direct Connection dealer (remember them?). It occurred to me I could use a Chrysler Super Stock Spring on the back and not use a traction device. Essentially, that's what many of the FAST guys do with they stock appearing cars. Trouble is, you can't easily adpat a Chrysler SS spring to a Chevy. Fortunately, AFCO offers a pretty good replica of the spring for circle track applications. I bought a pair. Here's a look:

This is the basic spring:

https://i.imgur.com/OXp6ONzh.jpg

The front segment is heavily biased, with more full and partial leafs in the spring pack:

https://i.imgur.com/Ru2mmPQh.jpg

Meanwhile, the rear has few:

https://i.imgur.com/4Thd66sh.jpg

This is the arch of the out-of-the-box spring (which happens to be just about right for my Nova):

https://i.imgur.com/ODT9mWHh.jpg

So how do they work? Simple. When under heavy acceleration load, a typical leaf spring will bend in the front segment. That's why you get wheel hop. This doesn't happen with an SS spring like this.

To compliment the springs, I swapped out the OE-style front bushing for a Detroit Speed composite Delrin/aluminum example. The backs of the springs use a conventional Chevy rubber bushing along with a stock shackle. The reason for this is, the rear of the spring in this application is just along for the ride.

https://i.imgur.com/BIPgjz6h.jpg

I wanted a means to adjust the rear suspension (aside from the shocks which I'll show you down the road). To get there, I bought a rear sway bar kit from Hotchkiss and threw away pretty much everything except the front adjuster mounts and the actual bar. From there, I used a couple of adjustable links from Summit Racing along with four Aurora Teflon lined rod ends. I made up the actual (super heavy duty) housing mounts from pieces sourced from Summit. Also, those are 1/2-inch Calvert Racing u-bolts on the axle housing (no t-bolts). Here's what it looks like from the back:

https://i.imgur.com/aLixfGGh.jpg

This is a side view. The links can be adjusted for preload. It is possible with this setup to actually change ride height (jack it) from side-to-side. As a result, it can be used to help plant a tire:

https://i.imgur.com/OJ0sWkmh.jpg

On the bottom side, the subframe was tied to the car spring pocket by way of Competition Engineering frame connectors. The pair of photos attached are recent (today!). You can see I used stainless brake lines along with stainless park brake cables. The exhaust is a modified Hooker 3-inch stainless steel setup for an LS swap. You can see I use V-band clamps to attach the exhaust to the slip on header collectors. Although it might look low in this photo, the exhaust is actually very tight to the floor pan. The lowest part is the 4-inch header collector (necessary for the 2-25-inch primary tubes, but that's another story). These photos should give you a pretty good idea of what the car is like underneath... it's fun working on a car like this...:)

https://i.imgur.com/9HQ1dFSh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/eqhxMWuh.jpg

The following YouTube link (short video) will give you a bit more insight into the basic rear suspension setup:

https://youtu.be/ngqqkQz8PDk

More to come....

[WILMASBOYL78]

Great thread...outstanding detail on the build. As a Nova guy I think it is very cool.

Regarding the rear springs...have you considered using the "Dick Harrell Style" spring clamps??? They worked really well...and eliminated the need for traditional traction bars. They were cheap and easy to fabricate...and the results were very good.

old thread where this is discussed along with other stuff...

https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthread.php?t=71829

-wilma

[BJCHEV396]

Super thread Wayne.Thanks for sharing bud!

[Arrowsmith]

Great thread...outstanding detail on the build. As a Nova guy I think it is very cool.

Regarding the rear springs...have you considered using the "Dick Harrell Style" spring clamps??? They worked really well...and eliminated the need for traditional traction bars. They were cheap and easy to fabricate...and the results were very good.

old thread where this is discussed along with other stuff...

https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthread.php?t=71829

-wilma

Yes, that’s a great idea. If the SS springs need help, that’s what I’ll do. I have a set Calvert split mono leaf springs along with a set of Smith Assassin traction bars (a better design and better quality than CalTracs I believe) waiting in the wings…But I don’t want to use them if I don’t have to. I just like the “vibe” of the car without traction bars…:) And thx for the link!

[Arrowsmith]

The rear end in the Nova is one of those out-of-sight, out-of-mind things, but honestly, this is a really special piece. My pal Mark Williams built it to my specs. It is a stock width assembly with stock style multi-leaf perches. It has a stock cover and looks pretty stock but that's where it ends (and it doesn't come cheaply either...L-O-L).

https://i.imgur.com/XgJFgmjh.jpg

The actual case (casting) is beefed up considerably. For example, this area behind the cap in a stock 12 bolt has far less material. Between this and the huge caps (held in with Allen fasteners), there is no need for a girdle.

https://i.imgur.com/gUEk3Vgh.jpg

Mark installs chrome moly tubes in the case, and as you can see here, they're welded (360 degrees to the center section). The stock plug weld location is still there, but it's completely rosette welded.

https://i.imgur.com/qOVffoFh.jpg

The OEM-style spring perches have gussets welded on both sides. This prevents the perch from being ripped off the axle tube.

https://i.imgur.com/T598iI6h.jpg

There are no c-clips used on the assembly. Instead, the axles are held in place on the inside with a pressed on bearing lock ring (inboard of the wheel bearing). The horseshoe shaped plate is the external bearing retainer. The actual flange is thicker than the one used on drag car (potholes and curbs happen with street cars...)

https://i.imgur.com/UNkcqvch.jpg

This is a closer look at the circle track style Timken unit bearing. It's designed to operate for extended periods of time, and the seal configuration is much more durable than a drag race component.

https://i.imgur.com/MlfYk1yh.jpg

The axles are tapered. The reason for this is triangulation. The axle is far stronger in this format than a straight design.

https://i.imgur.com/RIWYmNeh.jpg

One of the big benefits of this entire setup is the fact it uses huge 35-spline axles (the same size as a Dana 60). M-W uses an involute spline (the same as OEM manufacturers). It is created by way of a hobbing process. Most of the other manufacturers out there simply flycut the splines, and they're not as strong. FYI, a stock 12 bolt has a major diameter of 1.291-inches. This axle has a major diameter of 1.50-inches.

https://i.imgur.com/l9I2modh.jpg

Because of the larger axle diameter along with the custom center section designed to accept it, there's a need for a special differential assembly. Williams uses this 35-spline Eaton Detroit Locker for the application. The Nova has 3.73:1 gear set.

https://i.imgur.com/296crSAh.jpg

During the setup, Williams even goes as far as to safety-wire the ring gear bolts.

https://i.imgur.com/einM0L1h.jpg

On the nose, the pinion is a billet job. It is designed to accept a large Spicer 1350-series universal joint.

https://i.imgur.com/WoAO8jFh.jpg

That pretty much skims the surface on the 12 bolt. If you're interested in a more detailed look at this setup, check out these two videos:

https://youtu.be/9elyTSxkUOM

https://youtu.be/m4ycRE6cMXM

I'll wrap it up here. I'll post more down the road...

[dykstra]

Damn Wayne! Plain Jane has the Kim Kardashian of rear ends!LOL

[Arrowsmith]

L-O-L…Yes! Just as pricey, but much lower maintenance 🤣

[CamaroNOS]

Amazing, we could only be this fortunate to be able to see "inside" your build.

I see a lot of guys making a bunch of notes as they read the fine details. There definitely will be a few of our cars out there running quicker than ever.

The detail is staggering and thank you for sharing this with us. Please keep teaching us.

Paul

[CamaroNOS]

Damn Wayne! Plain Jane has the Kim Kardashian of rear ends!LOL

Just read this.....lol.....how true.

Paul

[cook_dw]

This is an impressive modern day modified car. Very clean and reversible if ever wanted; although I never would. Well done.

[Pro Stock John]

Great build. I've occasionally seen cars like this pop up.

[Arrowsmith]

I was backordered on some of the necessary suspension parts (lower a-arms were one of the big issues). Because of this, I decided to press forward building other parts of the car -- in particular, the interior.

One of the first jobs I did was to modify the old 3-on-the-tree column. I found a bowl from a floor shift car, swapped out the steering wheel assembly, eliminated all unnecessary column shift pieces internally, re-lubed the column and reassembled it with a new three-spoke finger grip wheel. I reduced the size of the interlock pieces and safety wired them. I discovered drilling the interlock pieces was much more difficult than it sounds. A local machine shop gave it try and gave up. Other machine shops laughed...Just before I sent the piece off to get EDM machined, I tried a bit for granite tile. It worked!:

https://i.imgur.com/wyakzbNh.jpg

The tach is an AutoMeter Pro Comp Monster. I used a conventional xl-size hose clamp to mount it, but I hated the look. So I trimmed back everything I could on the clamp, and then used a large heat shrink sleeve to cover it. I think the mount turned out well:

https://i.imgur.com/Mzk0lhnh.jpg

Electric water temp and mechanical oil PSI are also AutoMeter ProComp jobs. I didn't like any commercially available gauge brackets so I made my own:

https://i.imgur.com/GbChiq5h.jpg

I always use a warning lamp for line locks. Instead of the standard cheap Hurst job, I used this aircraft indicator from Aircraft Spruce:

https://i.imgur.com/p2hblquh.jpg

On the engine compartment side, I used a 90-degree AN bulkhead fitting for the oil psi gauge. There's a -3AN Teflon line in the cockpit that goes from the passenger compartment side of the fitting to the pressure gauge. And on the engine side, I use a short -3AN Teflon line to the Dart block oil gallery just above the bell housing flange. It's all very easy to assemble and disassemble.

https://i.imgur.com/IgU5Tdvh.jpg

This is the sender harness for the water temp gauge. I wrapped it in aircraft spi-wrap and then wrapped that with OEM style harness tape so it looks sort of stock:

https://i.imgur.com/mg1KMYth.jpg

Much of a new big block engine harness was disassembled. I stripped every wire I didn't need and then re-wrapped it with harness tape. The harness is now very minimal:

https://i.imgur.com/p117MXjh.jpg

I cut, drilled and shaped a 1/4-inch thick nylon board in the shape of the backside of the OEM-style firewall heater delete plate. This became my ignition board inside the car:

https://i.imgur.com/H6H7MJdh.jpg

As you can see, I use an MSD 7AL2 and a very conventional MSD compatible coil for ignition. I think the wiring job came out pretty well:

https://i.imgur.com/2xatZS5h.jpg

Here's the whole thing mounted up under the dash. It is just over the carpet line. I used AN fasteners to hold the works in place.

https://i.imgur.com/rQG6FdIh.jpg

Outside, the main power/ground wires for the MSD route directly to the battery (per MSD instructions). The actual switch for on-off is wired to the fuse box. I used silver plated aircraft wire here -- it has a much smaller diameter for the wire gauge, and the jacket is much stiffer. I wrapped it with harness tape and the wire goes through one of the firewall insulator plugs:

https://i.imgur.com/UtaVNVsh.jpg

Downstairs, I replaced the back seat seat belt bolts with longer grade eight fasteners. This provides a spot to hang the exhaust turnouts under the car.

https://i.imgur.com/peIF6Hhh.jpg

That's all for now...More later...

[Arrowsmith]

Moving along (and hopefully, this thread won't cluttered up with 9-inch versus 12 bolt arguments or other "stuff" down the road), I worked on the fuel delivery system. It's been a sort of work in progress. I'll explain later...

The main premiss here was to follow what others like "stock appearing" racers use. I totally dig that idea: I didn't want a fuel cell. I didn't want a sump in the tank. I wanted the car to look closer to stock:

https://i.imgur.com/5UulvsEh.jpg

Some of the FAST folks are using Holley Hydramats in their gas tanks. It is heavily used in off road racing applications too. Basically, a Hydramat is a wicking agent. It absorbs fuel.

https://i.imgur.com/pkHq94Rh.jpg

Here's a closer look:

https://i.imgur.com/7urG1qrh.jpg

There are a number of different choices for Hydramat configurations. Mine is setup to accept a honking -10 AN (5/8-inch) pickup. It is held to the floor of the gas tank by way of four rare earth magnets. Do they hold? L-O-L. I spent well over an hour trying to pry two apart. To move them around to where I wanted them in the tank, I used a piece of wood doweling.

https://i.imgur.com/CXj6WRHh.jpg

Speaking of the tank :) , This is a new Spectra tank. I cut that hole in the top to install the Hydramat.

https://i.imgur.com/HehaZiBh.jpg

I fabricated a cover from aluminum. When I did this, I decided I needed an easy to find gasket that is resistant to fuel. What you see is the baseplate gasket for a Holley Dominator carb.

https://i.imgur.com/uX4BFZVh.jpg

Outback, I had a friend TIG weld a -10 AN bung to the top of the tank for the feed line, along with a -8AN bung for the return line, as well as a -8AN bung for the vent. The tank uses a non-vented cap. Here's a pic of the feed and return line AN bungs:

https://i.imgur.com/W1Hx6Moh.jpg

In order to get the Hydramat in the tank and not destroy the skin on my arm, I duct taped the opening:

https://i.imgur.com/x5HW1Sxh.jpg

Here's a peak inside the tank. The Hydramat sits alongside the fuel level sending unit. I simply cut off the original pickup tube and plugged the OEM sender fuel line (more later).

https://i.imgur.com/Gy9HmVch.jpg

A big issue is finding hose that can be immersed in fuel. Believe it or not, AN hose doesn't like being immersed and neither does a wide range of OE-style hoses. The line must be flexible though. After a ton of research, I came up with this (below). It is hose that is used for things like snowmobiles, garden tractors and so on. It's capable of "living" inside gasoline. Acquiring it in -10 wasn't exactly easy. The fittings are from Earl's. The hose clamps are stainless steel jobs from Breeze (made in the USA). I use this same hose to handle the fuel line return inside the tank. It's not a good idea to allow the return line to spray inside the tank. Instead, the line should be on the tank floor:

https://i.imgur.com/8cNTVXVh.jpg

Here's the tank top plate sealed up:

https://i.imgur.com/7Fo15W5h.jpg

I blocked off the OEM style fuel pickup line internally and capped it. This way, the fuel sender still works:

https://i.imgur.com/uEfXAHVh.jpg

This is the -8AN (1/2-inch or so) fuel vent line. You can't see, but there is an AN breather fitting on top of the 90-degree fitting. I made a bracket out of aluminum to mount the vent line.

https://i.imgur.com/L5wpGgyh.jpg

This electric pump is a recent (this past week) change. I originally assembled the car with an off-shore Holley Marine mechanical pump, an Enderle mechanical fuel injection by-pass valve and a composite fuel pump pushrod. It all worked a-ok, but it wasn't consistent. The car would run nicely and then (in almost a heartbeat), the fuel level in the floats pretty much went out of control. I believe the huge mechanical pump I was using was overwhelming the pintle in the by-pass valve. Additionally, I was concerned about the longevity of the composite fuel pump pushrod (pretty much mandatory with a billet roller cam like I'm using). The big Weldon in-line electric pump along with a Weldon regulator is the ultimate solution. That Weldon pump will pull a prime (some users claim it can pull a prime in something like 6-feet, which is seriously impressive!). Weldon's regular business is manufacturing pumps and fuel system parts for aviation. They have good idea of what's going on....L-O-L. By the way, there's a bit of camera distortion here. I could not plumb the pump directly from the bung to the feed line, hence this layout. The reason it couldn't be done is because of minimum bend radius of AN hose. Bend it too tight and it will kink (and consequently be turned into junk). Here's the pump and return line setup:

https://i.imgur.com/GnWZxVgh.jpg

Moving forward, the Nova has a high flow -10 AN Holley billet fuel filter inline. The Hydramat acts as a pre-filter, while this is the after-filter:

https://i.imgur.com/S31edJGh.jpg

I used aircraft clamps to attach the line and stainless steel band clamps to tie the pressure (feed) line to the return line:

https://i.imgur.com/dpd6xlnh.jpg

At the firewall, the hoses run over the inner fender to the front of the car. I don't like hoses that route close to the headers, hence this layout. I've used it in a number of builds and it works great.

https://i.imgur.com/7lgZVXWh.jpg

The fuel and return lines run to this bulkhead under the stock style battery tray. The bracket is a simple 90-degree piece I built, and the fittings are bulkhead style. You can't see this when the battery tray is installed. By the way, I pressure test each hose after assembly. Easier to fix it now than later. Upstairs, the car is now getting a Weldon fuel pressure regulator with a return. I'll update that down the road:

https://i.imgur.com/0PgbXhlh.jpg

That's all for now...

[EZ Nova]

Did you keep the rear shocks (AFCO's) in the stock locations or did you move them inboard? You have mentioned in the past that the lower shock mount inhibits the tire?

[Arrowsmith]

Time for another update.

I selected AFCO double adjustable shocks for all four corners. These are great, very adjustable, rebuildable and ultimately re-valveable shocks. Out of the box, the rear shocks were setup to be mounted upside down (shaft down, body up) as shown here:

https://i.imgur.com/G9PbONPh.jpg

This places a bulky part of the shock body very close to the tire. Additionally, some of my class drag racing pals suggested mounting them upside down is a good way to make them leak. So I decided to re-mount them right side up (next photo). Changing the hardware to accomplish this isn't a big job. Perhaps a half-hour to get it done:

https://i.imgur.com/a5Xg4xKh.jpg

This is the rear compression adjuster on the AFCO shock. Turning the knob clockwise firms up the compression; turning it counter-clockwise softens it.

https://i.imgur.com/erO5ITah.jpg

The rebound adjuster on the back shock works the same way: Turn clockwise to firm up the valving; turn counter-clockwise to soften it.

https://i.imgur.com/GQ3xEPbh.jpg

On the front shock, the rebound adjuster is located here (top of the shock behind the inner fender dust shield). The adjusters work the same as the rear shocks:

https://i.imgur.com/KHqGDHxh.jpg

The compression adjuster is located here, just under the spring pocket:

https://i.imgur.com/1aIfreIh.jpg

A-arms for the car are from Detroit Speed. They're nice pieces with easily adjustable caster. They have Delrin bushings top and bottom. Here's the upper and lower:

https://i.imgur.com/HFpessHh.jpg

Ball joints bolt in (top):

https://i.imgur.com/vO6BDauh.jpg

The a-arm cross shafts are Billet. Those slugs that fit into the cross shaft are caster adjusters:

https://i.imgur.com/kTg5cXAh.jpg

Here's a close up look at the upper bushings:

https://i.imgur.com/wfyRpfSh.jpg

When the car was initially setup, I figured I'd go with a set of large body tapered coil/over springs. Unfortunately, they present all sorts of issues. Number one is, you can't easily establish ride height with them, even with collars on shock body. Number two is, the shock must be mounted on the top side of the lower a-arm (not the bottom as normal). Installation wasn't exactly fun. Basically, it sounded logical in the beginning, but it's a nightmare arrangement.

https://i.imgur.com/fKsdxcXh.jpg

The solution was to go with a conventional style spring. As you can see, it has the potential to store far more energy than one of those short tapered jobs:

https://i.imgur.com/tTQ6V6rh.jpg

In order to fit the big body AFCO front shock through the lower a-arm, you have to cut away the lower a-arm and fit this adapter ring (from AFCO):

https://i.imgur.com/vRICabih.jpg

I carefully cut away the pocket on the lower(s) with a die grinder. This is one side of the lower a-arm after I had it TIG welded. The adapter is welded on both sides.

https://i.imgur.com/qljDa5xh.jpg

Here's the spring and shock installed:

https://i.imgur.com/syIviShh.jpg

Does it work? Yes, the front suspension has all sorts of travel. It's as adjustable as I can get it. I'm currently fiddling with the front ride height. It's close now, but I still want to dial it in a bit more.

Until next time...

[L78_Nova]

Would you share the shock PN's. I have a similarly built (stocker type appearance) small block stick car that I need to upgrade.
Love your build detail and the car!! Thanks for posting up.

[Arrowsmith]

Would you share the shock PN's. I have a similarly built (stocker type appearance) small block stick car that I need to upgrade.
Love your build detail and the car!! Thanks for posting up.

Thanks for the kudos! Here are the part numbers (double adjustables):

The front shocks are 3840BNC.
The back shocks are 3870R1.

Fair warning though...don't faint at the $$$. :) Today, there's almost $2,000 in a set by the time you're done (yikes!). But they are well worth it. Fabulous shocks and super easy to adjust.

You might want to talk to AFCO about valving for your application. They have two different sets of BNC (Big Nose Compression) valving for the fronts, plus they can supply different shock lengths for the back, depending upon ride height.

[Arrowsmith]

This won't be a super long post. Just catching up with some loose ends of the build (chassis):

At the rear, I used a Detroit Speed front Delrin bushing arrangement. The way it's built (with the step on one side), you can move the spring in ever so slightly. Camaros and Novas of this era were built with springs that were splayed. By slightly moving the spring on the front bushing, you can pick up a tiny amount of extra tire clearance. The limitation is the actual spring perch in the housing. Move the spring too much and of course, it won't fit the housing. This the bushing from Detroit Speed (note the flush mount zerk). It's a nice piece:

https://i.imgur.com/uIsu3Kqh.jpg

Even though the car was a low miler, I still went through the steering components. I added a set of Hotchkiss tie rod sleeves too. They just make wheel alignments easier for folks like me who perform the task at home.

https://i.imgur.com/0Pwr54Uh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/gGVAzJzh.jpg

I built a completely new set of brakes, front and rear. At the rear, I had to cut the original drums off the car. The reason was someone previous to me totally messed up the adjusters. It was impossible to back them off and consequently, no easy way to remove the drums. I was hoping to save the backing plates, but in the process I nicked them with an angle grinder/cutoff wheel combination. Parts came from various sources, but the backing plates and drums are from Inline Tube. BTW: There are some differences in backing plates and drums. Some aftermarket backing plates do not have access for knockout plugs (!?). I wasn't crazy about that idea, hence the Inline Tube parts.

https://i.imgur.com/maoBNV0h.jpg

Here's a photo of the back brakes with a drum installed. When installing drum brakes with Mark Williams big axle bearings, the ID of the backing plate has to be enlarged. On the drum side, everything fits without modification. Those are 1/2-inch wheel studs from M-W and yes, they fit under the dog dish hubcaps.

https://i.imgur.com/c9JyfOQh.jpg

In some previous cars, I built them with aftermarket front brakes. The trouble with most of them is they won't fit a stock steel wheel (at least without mods or spacers). The other disadvantage is service parts. With stock brakes, I can get service parts almost anywhere. So. for this car, I used made-in-USA two piece rotors and a mix of reproduction and replacement parts. One word of caution: I painfully discovered that dust caps and castle nuts from some aftermarket sources (Chinese I'm assuming) don't fit. The dust caps and the castle nuts are simply built wrong. For example, when you install the dust cap, it actually contacts the washer and then pushes the bearing back further onto the spindle. Fortunately I discovered this early on. By the way, the OEM drum brake pieces I had worked perfectly. Once I had the "bugs" worked out, it all functions correctly. Additionally, you can see some of the chassis fasteners in this photo. I mentioned this before but I replaced all of the hardware with phosphate plated pieces.

https://i.imgur.com/rQEO14Yh.jpg

Out back, I had Wheel Vintiques make up a set of 15X8-inch OE-style wheels with a 5-1/4-inch backspace. They took forever, but they finally finished them. Once in hand, I had them painted to match the car and mounted a set of M&H Racemaster P275-60R15 drag radials. They tuck in nicely under the car:

https://i.imgur.com/HAxLmAJh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/bDBeALPh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/CjHn98zh.jpg

That's all for now...

[CamaroNOS]

Detail, detail and more detail. I could sit back and just watch this build forever.

Must admit, I can't wait until the first cruise video, it will be a hoot.

Paul

[Arrowsmith]

More from the build:

I really don't care for rubber floor mats in cars. Just don't like the look or feel, plus it seems to me they have more of a tendency to trap condensation when compared to carpet (my opinion only!). So I decided to sell the mat from Plain Jane and replace it with carpet. I had to buy two different carpet sets. I had pretty good luck with a previous OER carpet set, so I bought another. Mistake! It fit like crap. And it looked worse. The tunnel area was triple XL. I took it out and replaced it with a set from ACC. The product was great. Ditto with the fit. That duct tape you see on the door sill is to protect the paint while the bench seat is wrestled out and back in:

https://i.imgur.com/mZDxD8Kh.jpg

Next up, it was time to get working on the engine. Unfortunately, a huge number of the parts I needed were "supply chain issue" back ordered. It took the better part of a year to acquire a Dart cylinder block. What to do? I decided to use a mock up block and fit as many accessory pieces as possible. Turned out to be a really good plan. Here's the mockup block in the car:

https://i.imgur.com/MZL0Cjch.jpg

You might notice in some of the pix that I used a conventional motor mount on the passenger side. On the driver side, I use a solid mount. This does the same thing as a turn buckle, but without the drama. The solid mount I use is from Moroso (and don't believe their catalog for fit either...I went through a couple of different sets in order to get the right ones):

https://i.imgur.com/GxBIMPBh.jpg

I installed the heads and an intake on the mockup block. It sure looked like the Weiand intake I had would work. I later found out it didn't quite clear the flat hood, but that's another story.

https://i.imgur.com/XuIbh2Lh.jpg

Here's another look. I plumbed the mechanical pump (shown here), but that too has changed.

https://i.imgur.com/K38Gqtnh.jpg

Using a mockup allowed me to check for valve cover to wiper motor clearance. I also used the mockup to figure out which throttle cable to use. Since the Nova was originally a six, it had a cable instead of a lever (that's the six banger cable shown here). Although I do have a complete lever style mechanical throttle assembly it made more sense to use a cable. IIRC, a Chevelle cable worked.

https://i.imgur.com/gug9KtHh.jpg

This is the oil filler cap I'm using on the cast valve cover. It's a knurled screw-in job sealed with an o-ring. The valve covers are actually for a marine application.

https://i.imgur.com/Pj5ALFYh.jpg

I don't use a PCV on the engine. Instead, I use two large K&N breathers. These circle track style "socks" are used to soak up any oil that happens to get by the billet baffles in the valve covers:

https://i.imgur.com/VfFoVfsh.jpg

I test fit the ignition wire divider stands at the same time:

https://i.imgur.com/ufHrLrVh.jpg

With the mockup engine out of the car, it was time to fit the ignition wires. The valve covers were powder coated black. One change I made later was to reverse the valve covers because the breather on the driver side can interfere with valve cover removal (it hits the wiper motor). FYI, the water pump is an Edelbrock "long" version.

https://i.imgur.com/3nCoJwTh.jpg

I ended up with custom 2.25-inch primary tube headers from Lemon's Headers. I initially tried a set of Hooker adjustable, but because of the raised exhaust ports in the Brodix BB3 X'tra heads, they just didn't fit. The Lemon's headers were super costly, but they fit nicely. Eventually, I had them Cera-coated semi-flat black (Jane is pretty much allergic to shiny stuff ....L-O-L and the gun finish works great)

https://i.imgur.com/5lG0CMFh.jpg

Here's the collector and reducer I'm using. I had a v-band clamp setup TIG welded to the slip on reducer. Not shown...when using a slip-on reducer, I always pin it to the collector. Just a wee bit of insurance. By the way, that's a four-inch diameter collector.

https://i.imgur.com/Gzk3jPYh.jpg

This is a side view of the wires, as I was making them up. The wires consist of Summit Racing race wire (which is actually high end Delphi race wire). The sleeves and shrinks are from MSD. The boots and terminals are Delphi (again Summit branded).

https://i.imgur.com/fGfFPCEh.jpg

Here's a look at the topside. That's a heavily reworked Delco point triggered distributor, complete with a modified vacuum advance. Down the road I'll show you what's inside. It's crowded up there with the fat wires and sleeves, but it all works:

https://i.imgur.com/SkXao87h.jpg

I tested each wire after it was stripped and then after it was terminated. Testing them before hand tells you in a heartbeat if you made a secure crimp!

https://i.imgur.com/mqE7NUEh.jpg

That's all for now...I'll gather more pix in a few days...

[Xplantdad]

Awesome...and those headers are a work of art!:biggthumpup:

[Arrowsmith]

And they cost almost as much as a small car…L-O-L. Seriously though, the fit is great. In some places, like between the driver side pipes and the motor mount frame stand, there’s room for a sheet of paper. I’ll use Lemons again!

[BJCHEV396]

One of the best and most detailed builds on the site! Kudos Wayne!!

[Arrowsmith]

Any more updates Wayne? We need our "fix"! Lol.

Soon...L-O-L....I'll start the engine build part.. :)

[Arrowsmith]

I'm back L-O-L

The original plan was to build a 540, so a block with a 4.50-inch bore was what I was looking for. I have a lot of friends and connections in the biz (including heavyweights like David Reher), and none of them could come up with or give up a block. I was on the phone almost every day for six months trying to find a block. I was pretty much convinced there was little hope of finding one because of the supply chain issues we were all facing. One day I tried Borrowski Race Engines in Rockdale, Illinois. Much to my surprise, they had one (1!) 4.6-inch bore block available. I asked him to hold it while I called my piston manufacturer of choice (Mahle Motorsports). Mahle told me they had one (1!) set of 4032 alloy, low dome pistons for a 4.6-inch bore block available, so it all fell together. Borrowski has a Rottler machining center setup for blocks, so I asked them to run my block through to my specs. Fed Ex managed to lose the block in transit, but eventually I took delivery. Here's the bare block before final cleaning:

https://i.imgur.com/jZm7gjLh.jpg

I cleaned it several times (Borrowski also cleans it) and then started the assembly, beginning with prep work like plugs, block drains, dowels, etc. You can see I use rad petcocks on the block drains:

https://i.imgur.com/CoYnNr7h.jpg

This is my crankshaft of choice: It's a fully counterweighted forged job from Molnar. Tom's a friend and honestly, he does fabulous work. Stroke is 4.250-inches.

https://i.imgur.com/su92WC2h.jpg

I miked the crank, and it was pretty much dead nuts accurate:

https://i.imgur.com/UKEJf31h.jpg

Tom Molnar suggested I use bearings from King Bearings (they're out of Israel). Rods and Mains (shown here) are coated. There was another wait because the bearings I needed (standard, standard, narrow rod) were backordered:

https://i.imgur.com/CMYcdv0h.jpg

Crank is in it here, but as you can see, only the front main and the rear main are in place. I was checking crankshaft end clearance. Look closely and you can see I'm using a billet oil filter adapter, without a by pass. This thing will never see use in cold weather and I don't use super heavy oil, so....

https://i.imgur.com/dcfZqiuh.jpg

These are the Mahle Motorsports pistons I'm using. They have a 1.270-inch compression height, a 10-cc mini dome, and they're machined for relatively skinny metric rings (1.5-mm top and second; 3.0-mm oil). The pistons are dry phosphate coated to prevent ring micro-welding and pin galling during initial startup. Mahle includes proprietary Grafal anti-friction coating to the piston skirts:

https://i.imgur.com/fHtw8PNh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/eiXb6mhh.jpg

Pins are conventional 0.990-inch jobs. Retainers are round wire (which are slightly less painful to assemble than Spirolocks). The pistons are setup so that you can get a little screwdriver in place to work the retainer.

https://i.imgur.com/buPOviSh.jpg

Rods also came from Tom Molnar. They're 6.385-inches center to center and obviously set up for a floating pin:

https://i.imgur.com/7jVCdN1h.jpg

Tom designed his own thread configuration for the rod bolts and has ARP build the rod bolts for him:

https://i.imgur.com/Clkv6D7h.jpg

I file-fit all of the rings by hand to set the end gap for each cylinder. I don't have (and cannot justify) one of the super fancy, super expensive electric ring filing tools out there so I use this tool from Summit Racing. Compared to other hand ring filers, this one works fabulously:

https://i.imgur.com/D4OmSCuh.jpg

A big part of the process is "sneaking up" on the gap. In other words, file a little bit and check the gap, repeat, repeat, repeat for eight top rings and eight second rings...it takes awhile...L-O-L:

https://i.imgur.com/GJweNvLh.jpg

During the pre-assembly phase, I don't install the rings on the pistons or the pin retainers. I do that after the engine is balanced. In the pre-assembly phase, I tape the ring lands with a couple of wraps of painter tape to protect the various bits and to keep the pins in place. Nothing new here. Lot's of race engine builders do the same thing:

https://i.imgur.com/TxiYrCMh.jpg

It was time to degree the camshaft. Here I'm using a piston stop to establish true top dead center:

https://i.imgur.com/VkWTSqRh.jpg

Here's the timing chain setup I'm using. It's an Australian Rollmaster. As you can see on the crank gear, there are a ton of timing options, and my timing set was pretty old (but not used). It came from the old Crane Cams and instructions weren't plentiful. It took some messing around to get it dialed in. Once the engine was final assembled, I used a roller cam button and cam bolt lock on the nose:

https://i.imgur.com/Nxb9X5eh.jpg

I'm using a large diameter degree wheel from B&B Performance. My old acquaintance Joe Stef (Stef's Oil Pans) owns B&B. Joe is a member here, and his company products are stellar. By the way, the camshaft is a mechanical roller from Bullet Racing Cams. I've known John Partridge (owner of Bullet) ever since his days at Lunati and me working on NHRA Stockers. The cam has a lift of...a wee bit more than 0.750-inches on both the intake and exhaust and the duration and lobe center are...I'm not telling...L-O-L. Seriously the roller cam is a big pussy cat in this engine. It now idles at 1100 RPM or so in gear

https://i.imgur.com/XaJCyfNh.jpg

Just a look at the dial indicator as I'm going through the process...

https://i.imgur.com/lpUYv3Ih.jpg

For the most part I use Mahle gaskets in the engine. The head gaskets are MLS (Multi Layer Steel) configuration. They don't require a hot retorque (which is an absolute pain without a test stand). I like them a lot (a Lot!). The gasket shown is one I had for the 4.50-inch bore 540, and obviously, I couldn't use it here:

https://i.imgur.com/6yrCNggh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KN7S3jRh.jpg

At this point, I disassembled everything and took the respective parts in to be balanced. I'll show you more of the build next time around...

[big gear head]

I've got those "Made For You" spark plug wire looms on my 427. The valve covers always leaked because I couldn't tighten the bolts enough because of the plastic posts. I made new ones from aluminum and no more leaks.

[Arrowsmith]

I've got those "Made For You" spark plug wire looms on my 427. The valve covers always leaked because I couldn't tighten the bolts enough because of the plastic posts. I made new ones from aluminum and no more leaks.

Very nice job of machining! Mine don’t seem to leak though. Could be a difference in valve covers, valve cover rails on the heads, and/or gaskets. The Brodix heads I use have a taller rail. I use Mahle or Fel Pro vc gaskets (I don’t have a preference) and glue them to the valve cover.

[Arrowsmith]

I've had some "distractions", but back to the engine build...

This is the almost complete short block assembly. I like to use ATI dampers (balancers), simply because they flat out work. Yes, there are cheaper options...The timing pointer is a billet job while the timing chain cover is from Milodon. Just about every fastener is from ARP. The truth is, the only OEM Chevy parts in this entire engine are the distributor body and the thermostat housing.

https://i.imgur.com/0phR8nWh.jpg

This is a side view. Originally, I assembled the engine with a discontinued Holley off-shore Marine fuel pump (driven by way of a composite fuel pushrod). Since then, I've replaced the engine fuel system with a Weldon pump and regulator (-10AN to the front and then -8 AN at the carb and return). The water pump is from Edelbrock.

https://i.imgur.com/rZRdjURh.jpg

Here's another look at the damper/timing pointer and a bit of the pump. Pulleys are basic 396-375 jobs.

https://i.imgur.com/DF3dfBZh.jpg

Inside, I had the block machined to accept a large Hemi diameter roller lifter (0.903-inch) from Jesel. They're considerably larger than a stock Chevy lifter @ 0.842. The increase in size allows for a larger roller wheel which in turn helps with reliability (and Jesel recommends it if possible). The cam was ground with the Hemi size lifter taken into consideration. The Jesel roller lifters are probably the most robust (and finest) tie-bar examples you can buy.

https://i.imgur.com/O3447Vzh.jpg

Years ago, I used to paint everything inside the block with electric motor case paint. Then a couple of folks, including the late John Lingenfelter asked me "why". I really couldn't come up with a valid reason other than "sealing the block surface". So....I quit painting them..L-O-L. Here's another look at the Jesel rollers:

https://i.imgur.com/vOwzbYth.jpg

Upstairs, I'm using Jesel steel roller rockers. Like everything else Jesel builds, these pieces are fabulous. You can probably guess, I went out of my way to use reliable pieces. As you can see, I'm using a 1.625-inch diameter spring (its from PAC) with titanium retainers.

https://i.imgur.com/AeUowz8h.jpg

Here's a comparison of the Jesel steel rocker versus a Jesel Sportsman rocker. There's not that much difference in weight, but the steel rocker is ultimately stronger and more compact. With a Jesel shaft, there's zero need for any sort of stud girdle (if you've ever used a stud girdle, you'll know what a pain in the ass it is). The Jesel shaft rocker is a great setup.

https://i.imgur.com/CSGhb08h.jpg

Heads are from Brodix. I've been a regular "user" of Brodix products for years and I'm a believer...L-O-L. Some of the nicest castings in the biz and flow numbers versus port volume are fabulous (they don't play games like some companies). I'm particularly fond of the BB-3Xtra lineup. The heads I'm using for Jane are 345-cc jobs. For more info, check out this video on my You Tube Channel:

https://youtu.be/I7PclURsmO4

Here's one head:

https://i.imgur.com/fVYHEErh.jpg

Obviously, pushrods are needed. I wanted a double tapered setup because of the strength. The Jesel shaft setup doesn't need conventional rocker studs and it doesn't need pushrod guide plates. But to get there, I had to measure the pushrod length. I have a few different checking tools, but this one from Trick Flow is easy to use (you need two for a BBC because the pushrods are different lengths). I double check it with a dial caliper:

https://i.imgur.com/BDUN85Rh.jpg

With the length determined, I could order pushrods. These came from Trend. They taper from 3/8-inch to 7/16-inch back to 3/8-inch. It took a long time to get them, but I think it was worth the wait. They're also awesome pieces....

https://i.imgur.com/LTSdKSYh.jpg

Here's a look at the tip (FYI, I double checked the clearance in the head with these pushrods. Sometimes they mandate a bit of grinding in the head):

https://i.imgur.com/HW32ogbh.jpg

On the bottom end, I used a Melling billet pump with a bottom pickup. Years ago, I had a brazed pickup fall off a race engine. The braze job failed. It cost me an engine. That's why I really appreciate these Melling pieces. It's a standard volume example (but adjustable with a spring swap). By the way, that's a Melling pump drive.

https://i.imgur.com/qR6tKOYh.jpg

Here's a look at the bottom pickup:

https://i.imgur.com/Dz4r3koh.jpg

The oil pan is another work of art from Stef's. They make a special "Camaro Notch" pan, which obviously fits the Nova subframe. The way it's built, you gain max possible room under the crank at the stock engine cradle. Installed with the correct mix of mounts and frame stands, you can slide a piece of paper under the pan and the front crossmember...:)

https://i.imgur.com/bN3mCmCh.jpg

The pan is incredibly well baffled too. Note the screen on the passenger side. That helps to strip oil off the crank and force it back into the sump. Joe and company know their way around oiling systems. I'm a huge fan of the company. It's just a stellar piece of fabrication...and it fits!
In case you're wondering, Jane has wonderful, stable oil pressure!

https://i.imgur.com/rObNcl1h.jpg

Here are a couple of pix of the finished engine. I broke it in with Wix filters, but for regular use, I'm switching it to Baldwin filters (Moroso sells them). It's my understanding Baldwin made the original (way back when) AC PF35's. I might get some disagreement over this, but....If you cut a bunch of filters apart, you'll understand why....:). There are Huge differences in oil filters and the only way to see it is to slice and dice them.

https://i.imgur.com/qfiVg31h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/4UONhkah.jpg

Down the road, I'll show you the intake swap I did and I'll also show you the distributor I built to trigger the MSD 7. Stay tuned....

[Xplantdad]

Thanks Wayne....it's Engine jewelry! :headbang::headbang::headbang:

[Arrowsmith]

Thanks Wayne....it's Engine jewelry! :headbang::headbang::headbang:

Thanks Bruce...

There's a huge number of hidden "things" in this build that would otherwise go unnoticed. Happy I get to share some of it...:)

[Arrowsmith]

Impressive, yes! And thanx for your journalistic efforts, fun to ride along. Are you adding screens in the lifter valley?

Thank you!

A long time ago, I would screen the lifter valley in engines I built, but I discovered (and I’m certainly not the only one), they bring their own set of problems (oil drain back issues is just one example).

Cheers!

[Arrowsmith]

You do amazing work! What a sleeper that would be on the street.

Thank you!

[Arrowsmith]

Damn keeps getting better Wayne!

Thank you. I appreciate it. :)

[realzed]

www.baldwinfilters.com

As an example - www.baldwinfilters.com/us/en/application-vin-result-page.html?searchType=application&applicationType=1&year=1968&model=Camaro&make=CHEVROLET&engine=66863

[Arrowsmith]

Since we've segued to the topic of Baldwin filters, here's a Moroso #22460 race filter (Baldwin) cut apart. Draw your own conclusions, but this is my filter of choice:

https://i.imgur.com/uaAdbDXh.jpg

[Arrowsmith]

Back to the build...

The ignition system I have is based upon an MSD 7AL buzz box and a simple matching MSD canister coil. But to trigger it, I did something different. The new kids who look after tech at MSD are aghast...(seriously)...like "that'll never work"...even though the instruction sheet for the 7AL2 clearly shows how to wire it for a point trigger distributor....L-O-L. I use a point trigger Delco to tell the MSD when to fire. There are reasons for this: The old Delco point distributors were (and are) extremely stable when properly setup. When properly setup, they're stable at 7,000 RPM. They are also very reliable. When used to trigger a buzz box, there is no need for a condenser. All the point set does (and you can only use a single point distributor) is to act as a switch. With this setup, points last almost forever. And the big deal is, I don't have to rely upon an often shaky electronic trigger mechanism (fact: way back when, when I owned a couple of speed shops, we actually warrantied more Mallory Unilite electronic distributors than we sold). Here's the overall setup out of the car:

https://i.imgur.com/FdbZVX6h.jpg

The basic Delco I used was a super low mileage job from a 307 and as a result, the bushings were perfect. First things first, I set the end clearance. They're regularly way off GM spec and I have to shim them:

https://i.imgur.com/n8ZEDjBh.jpg

Upstairs, I limit the amount of mechanical advance:

https://i.imgur.com/FDNM6q7h.jpg

I use one set of ACCEL performance (not race) points. Note no condenser:

https://i.imgur.com/cbihyhFh.jpg

I usually use Moroso weights and springs. For this application (with an automatic) I want the curve to come in quickly, so I use the lightest springs:

https://i.imgur.com/M4mSB55h.jpg

Some might scoff, but I still like to use a vacuum advance setup on a street car. It just makes sense, especially when cruising at a constant speed. This is an old Crane setup I used, and it's adjustable. I set it for the least amount of vacuum advance.

https://i.imgur.com/7bEF9rWh.jpg

With a steel cam (roller) and a steel drive gear on the cam, you either need a bronze distributor gear or a melonized gear. I prefer the melonized gear. FYI, Chevy uses them on their roller cam crate engines:

https://i.imgur.com/Dkfc17Th.jpg

Upstairs, I prefer the old ACCEL caps and rotors. They're heavier and more robust than the new MSD pieces:

https://i.imgur.com/TcNgIiBh.jpg

This is the finished distributor (less the melonized gear...which was installed later):

https://i.imgur.com/bSHp72xh.jpg

My intake manifold choice posed a real problem. The intent was to use a Weiand Strip Warrior single plane. But it clearly wouldn't allow the hood to close. I wasn't about to use any sort of hood scoop and I wasn't about to sacrifice filter area. Here's the Weiand in the car:

https://i.imgur.com/tVQo0E8h.jpg

I needed something shorter, but there are some really issues: Stock big block Chevy intakes have a bolt hole over each siamese intake runner. Most aftermarket heads like the Brodix BB3's I use don't have the corresponding hole. Here's a look at an intake for a stock Chevy head layout:

https://i.imgur.com/H93mLMph.jpg

If you place an intake gasket for a Brodix BB3 Xtra head over the manifold, this is the result...Incredible vacuum leak...L-O-L:

https://i.imgur.com/XbF59uSh.jpg

Because of all of this, the options aren't that great: Weld the offending bolt holes in an intake (that will fit) or find an intake that does work. In truth, there is only one out there, and it's about to be discontinued, simply because it costs lot of $$$. It's a Brodix dual plane intake. Here it is, side by side with the Weiand:

https://i.imgur.com/YCwCDYGh.jpg

I suspect there's a pretty good power loss with the Brodix although Scott Shaffiroff's testing has proven it's not really that bad. On the car, it's easy to see it can clear the flat hood:

https://i.imgur.com/HRSkBUuh.jpg

Here's the intake on the 565-cid big block. I sure can't complain about the throttle response...It's over the top. In fact, the big block rotates the tach like a hot small block.

https://i.imgur.com/u1iYI0wh.jpg

That's it for this episode...Stay tuned for more...

[Arrowsmith]

With the engine done, I was ready for the transmission and converter. Trouble was, those pieces were on a big wait list from ATI. They were roughly 100 custom transmissions behind. And since I'm a big fan of ATI, I bit the bullet, placed the order....and waited. In the meantime, it was an opportunity to mount an external trans cooler.

I had a really (Really!) nice Earl's stacked plate oil cooler on hand. It's big, but the reality is, there is no way possible to overcool an automatic transmission. Like some other parts, it has been recently discontinued by Earl's parent company, Holley. I suspect it was too expensive for them to produce and it's probably far cheaper to build something else (offshore?).

Stacked plate coolers are really the best format. They're similar to old Corvette L88 rads. Here's the cooler:

https://i.imgur.com/GtobBXWh.jpg

These old coolers will accept almost any hose size, with o-ring fittings. They were originally designed so that they could be used as engine oil coolers. I'm using -6AN hose for the cooler lines.

https://i.imgur.com/DbqzspTh.jpg

These are the optional mount brackets for the cooler. For my application, I used both, but had to fab up one more bracket.

https://i.imgur.com/aDqWfRBh.jpg

I needed to build a bracket that would allow me to mount one end on the rad support and one end on the hood latch support (upright) at the nose of the car. So I dragged out this chunk of angle aluminum extrusion and the idea was to cut away anything that didn't look like a bracket (L-O-L):

https://i.imgur.com/fem35fOh.jpg

I don't have a mill, so everything is done the old fashioned way...by hand! I used a saw, various files, a drill, a hole saw, and sanding blocks to fab parts. Here's the bracket roughed out.

https://i.imgur.com/HpSHucPh.jpg

Because the bracket was hefty, I decided to remove some excess material. A decent hole saw and some Rapid Tap works wonders:

https://i.imgur.com/CtKLmzwh.jpg

Here's the finished bracket after I cleaned it up and block sanded it:

https://i.imgur.com/L3tJv9sh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/QSexovrh.jpg

This is the cooler installed in the car. I use a mix of AN aircraft fasteners to bolt it to the car:

https://i.imgur.com/JXqSOrlh.jpg

These are some later photos of the how the cooler lines are routed (transmission is in place here). I tried to keep close to the GM routing path, since it keeps the lines as far away from the headers possible. The first photo shows a pair of AN adapter fittings ATI builds:

https://i.imgur.com/Gjv9V3Vh.jpg

The lines pass under the starter. I built a little bracket to affix the hose separator/clamp to an oil pan bolt. As you can see, I'm using a Tilton gear reduction starter. These are absolutely awesome. It doesn't drag with 14-degrees (or more sometimes) initial timing, turning the 565. By the way, there's a huge difference in these "mini-starters" from various companies. Tilton costs more, but it just flat works.

https://i.imgur.com/Xy5zYWKh.jpg

That's all I have for now. Next time, I'll show you some details on the shifter. I prefer getting it mounted prior to the transmission installation.

[EZ Nova]

I really don't think your losing any power with that dual plane. People have made over 800Hp with GM OEM dual planes. This larger should support at least 850Hp

SMALLER 538 in with ported GM dual plane, 831Hp.
https://www.chevelles.com/threads/how-much-power-from-a-factory-bbc-dual-plane.354314/

Mine didn't make 800Hp, but we think the stock 1969 "052" alum block is the issue there.

[Arrowsmith]

After a considerable wait, my TH400 was eventually shipped from ATI in Maryland. I've used both ATI and A1 Racing automatics transmissions for something like forty years. I knew both of the respective company founders very well. When Jim Beattie passed away, ATI was handed over to to his very capable son JC. Marc Ripes (from A1) on the other hand sold his business. I elected to go with ATI. JC runs a great business!

Anyway, while waiting for the transmission, I decided to install the shifter from Precision Performance. It's a fabulous piece and you'll soon see why...

First things first...I mocked it up in the car. I use tape to lay out where it will be, after getting in the car, moving the bench seat around and getting comfortable.

https://i.imgur.com/X9vLaveh.jpg

Here's the shift gate. As you can see, it's a forward pattern setup. I prefer forward pattern transmissions on the street. I'll get to that later. With the Precision Performance shifter, once it's in first gear, it operates like a ratchet. When changing upshifting, just keep slapping the shifter forward. When downshifting, you simply pull the lever and the shifter handle simultaneously.

https://i.imgur.com/4LwxeWph.jpg

The sliver "button" on the shifter handle is used when you need to go into reverse or park. Meanwhile, the red button is the line lock (roll control) switch.

https://i.imgur.com/QVbnGtXh.jpg

There's a neutral safety switch built into the shifter. I simply wired it into the OEM neutral safety switch in the dash harness. The other wires are for the line lock. Note the mil spec style wire harness connector.

https://i.imgur.com/v99owq9h.jpg

In order to make clean holes in the carpet, I use this (a soldering iron). By the way, a larger job works perfectly for making seat belt and seat mount holes in new carpet too!

https://i.imgur.com/f1vH53Lh.jpg

Here's the shifter installed. I hate using big screws to hold a shifter in place. They're not secure and they tend to slice and dice my skin if I get too close under the car (:)). I use aircraft AN fasteners to hold it in place (nylocks under the car). I think you can see why plenty of racers use this setup. It's simply awesome.

https://i.imgur.com/e2XdBHlh.jpg

Here's my TH400 from ATI. It too is a piece (!!!). Choices for components were a collaboration between JC and myself. For street use, a forward pattern manual valve body is a good idea. Their reason is, most reverse pattern manual valve bodies do not provide engine braking. ATI's forward pattern manual valve body does. Additionally, it has standard 2.48:1. 1.48:1 and 1:1 ratios. The input shaft is a Vasco steel job and the balance is all heavy duty ATI hardware (too much to list here). The torque converter is a 10-inch Tree Master from ATI. In ancient times, I would have needed to use an 8-inch converter, but technology has marched forward and ATI can make the 10-inch example work perfectly. A long stroke engine helps...L-O-L. And if you've used an 8-inch converter on the street, you'll know it sometimes isn't fun. The flex plate is an SFI-certified piece from ATI. I don't like billet flex plates. The reason is, they don't flex (which they are supposed to do) and that can create all sorts of havoc on a street driven car.

https://i.imgur.com/oMmsRLnh.jpg

Obviously, the engine and trans must be hooked together and there are some important considerations. Here's how I do it...

https://i.imgur.com/GES8S96h.jpg

To mount the flex plate on the engine, you have to make sure it's oriented correctly (don't laugh...some get it backwards). I also use ARP fasteners and torque them to spec:

https://i.imgur.com/iAwUjYHh.jpg

When installing a converter, it's easy enough to get it wrong. Plenty of good mechanics miss it. I use this simple ATI shipping tool to ensure the converter and transmission input splines are correctly engaged. It saves a ton of heartache if you don't get it right.

https://i.imgur.com/j3AaSjNh.jpg

Another thing folks tend to miss is transmission bolt engagement (often too little). I use ARP 12-point fasteners here, and this photo shows how much thread engagement they offer.

https://i.imgur.com/mTcOwDFh.jpg

When installing the transmission, you shouldn't draw it to the block by the bolt threads. Once on the dowels, you should be able to move it into place by hand (that's what is going on here):

https://i.imgur.com/CixDTVsh.jpg

With the transmission case attached, here's the little dance I do to get the converter bolts installed and get the starter properly shimmed. It ain't pretty but it works...L-O-L:

https://i.imgur.com/ezI9xFWh.jpg

Here's another look at the starter (Tilton simply builds stellar, no BS parts):

https://i.imgur.com/pDyR4gLh.jpg

I prefer to use ATI's Grade 8 bolts for the converter (to flexplate). The reason is, a six-point head allows open end wrench access up inside the transmission bell housing.

https://i.imgur.com/RFD9QsWh.jpg

I did this earlier, but I'll it address it now. It's the shifter cable setup on the transmission. It is far easier to get it close to adjustment here and then final adjust after it's in the car. As you can see, Precision Performance uses all top quality components:

https://i.imgur.com/efjhFmGh.jpg

Something small but incredibly important is the transmission dipstick. I use this setup from Dan Masta's Trick Stick company. With this assembly, the dipstick actually locks (NHRA requirement). This prevents it from blowing out, and if you've ever experienced a broken automatic that spews out a dipstick tube (and consequently oils down your back tires), you'll know why it's a great idea!

https://i.imgur.com/ZmQe2WDh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/arHGqyOh.jpg

[Chuck_Burg]

Awesome build Wayne! Do remember how long you made the advance slot in your distributor? I recently restored a Delco distributor for my 496 and shortened the advance slot with a dab of weld followed by some filing. The stock 327/210hp distributor gave it 28* of advance! Now I have half that.

[Arrowsmith]

Hi Chuck. I just used an oversize limiter bushing and didn’t touch the slot. I might go back in and limit the mechanical a bit more (not as much as your setup though)…and then add more initial. The original plan was to run a stick, and because of that I have more mechanical advance in it (and less initial). On the other hand, my 565 does really run nicely the way it is, so I just might leave it alone.😉

[Arrowsmith]

Getting closer to done.....

Here are the headers I used: They're custom headers from Lemons' in California. The headers are a slip fit design (each pipe slips into the collector and the flange is split). This allows getting them into the car with a wee bit more ease. The primary tubes are 2.25-inches in diameter while the collectors are 4.0-inches.

https://i.imgur.com/ctJdi4vh.jpg

Dan Lemons does fabulous work. Here's the TIG welding on the primaries:

https://i.imgur.com/BSd8GDlh.jpg

Inside the tube, you can see the same attention to detail:

https://i.imgur.com/IS1RkgUh.jpg

The collectors incorporate an exhaust gas transition spear:

https://i.imgur.com/8i9df0fh.jpg

I really struggled with what to coat them with. I've found that some of the coatings out there don't live. Also, after a lot of hand-wringing, I decided to mute the coating colour so as to match the understated theme of the car. After a bit of research I decided to use a Cerakote process. It's used on custom guns and rifles, and certain mixes have the heat capacity for headers. To get there, the local shop asked me to clean the header parts:

https://i.imgur.com/UYIuUgHh.jpg

I never saved any "after" shots of the finished headers but you can see the almost flat black I selected in some of the other images of the car. Moving back in the exhaust I incorporated V-band clamps to hook the 4-inch to 3-inch reducers to the exhaust.

https://i.imgur.com/0eAdoRKh.jpg

Out back, I used these hangers from Stainless Works. They attach to the longer-than-stock rear seat belt bolts I installed. Not shown here is the clamp I used. Instead of the clamp shown, I went with a beefier stainless steel u-bolt setup.

https://i.imgur.com/o7SZhEzh.jpg

I made a set of turnouts from 3-inch stainless and they were TIG welded directly to the Hooker mufflers:

https://i.imgur.com/78AXqfEh.jpg

This is a look at the exhaust before I modified the head pipes to fit. The system has 3-inch pipes and of course a cross-over. Hooker Headers makes it for LS swaps. I have three different sets of mufflers on hand and I picked what I thought would be the quietest. And it really is subdued, even without tail pipes (which I cannot run with the rear suspension and the mount location required for the large electric fuel pump I have on the car).

https://i.imgur.com/FWSumj3h.jpg

The final big piece under the car is the driveshaft. I had Mark Williams build me a custom 3-1/2-inch diameter job from 7075 aluminum. FYI, many years ago, I tested a conventional steel shaft against an aluminum shaft in a NHRA Stock Eliminator car. With back to back to back A-B-A testing, I discovered the aluminum shaft was definitely quicker (bad alas, not NHRA legal for the application....L-O-L). Too bad no one can see this M-W shaft hidden up inside the car. It's a work of art:

https://i.imgur.com/ALEI7guh.jpg

M-W built the billet steel slip yoke for the TH400. I use solid (no zerk) Spicer 1350 universal joints front and rear. The driveshaft yoke isn't welded. The reason is, you can't easily weld 7075. Williams invented a bonding system to install the pair of "weld" yokes on the shaft. The strength actually exceeds that of a conventional welded (non-7075 alloy) shaft.

https://i.imgur.com/JiZbITKh.jpg

The rear of the shaft is the same -- Spicer 1350 u-joints and an "Accubonded" yoke. Williams high speed balances the shafts, and for my application, the critical speed is just about perfect for the RPM range of the car.

https://i.imgur.com/3QQKnsih.jpg

That's all for now. Down the road, I'll show you some other details...

[BJCHEV396]

Outstanding!!

[big gear head]

Did they tell you what the filler material was for the welds on those headers? The color of the weld on that flange looks like silicon bronze. I've run into problems at work with 7075 aluminum. The guys that I work with keep making parts from 7075 and then bring it to me to weld it. They aren't very happy when I tell them they have to make it over again out of 6061. I didn't see any signs of balancing the shaft. How did they do that?

[Arrowsmith]

Did they tell you what the filler material was for the welds on those headers? The color of the weld on that flange looks like silicon bronze. I've run into problems at work with 7075 aluminum. The guys that I work with keep making parts from 7075 and then bring it to me to weld it. They aren't very happy when I tell them they have to make it over again out of 6061. I didn't see any signs of balancing the shaft. How did they do that?

Good questions!

Not sure what the filler material was on the headers. I'm sure Lemons would tell you.

L-O-L on welding 7075. I think a lot people look up the specs of 7075 and have visions of welding it but reality can change that pretty quick! I found something on the Internet about welding it, but it seemed way out there. :)

Mark physically screws the weights to either end of the shaft, on the yokes, and it passes SFI testing too. The goop is to keep folks from tampering with it (or at least, scare them). Here's one image:

https://i.imgur.com/gKXcZWth.jpg

[Arrowsmith]

An interesting part about Lemons Headers is that, in addition to the engine and chassis, the headers are built for the cylinder head exhaust port (size and location). This is particularly important with raised exhaust ports. In my case, the Brodix BB3 XTra exhaust ports are raised 0.600-inch. I had a set of Hooker Race Headers here and I tried them. They weren’t even close to fitting. The reason is they’re built for stock production line port heights. In the end, you do get what you pay for with Lemons. :)

[MonteMike79]

Nice job on your Nova. I look forward to reading your updates and seeing the photos.

What are you using for a transmission/bellhousing shield ? Just curious.

[Arrowsmith]

Thanks for the compliment. I’m not using a converter and/or trans shield. They can be a royal pain on a race car, and this certainly isn’t a race car. The car wouldn’t pass NHRA or IHRA tech anyway plus I’m not cutting it up to make it “track legal” :).

[Arrowsmith]

Here are some added images of the build. You might find some of this interesting or useful.

This is the battery of choice. It's actually a modern AGM (absorbent glass matt) battery from XS Power. XS Power does a lot of race car and sound system batteries. They offer this "vintage" looking job with aged decals. I really dig it and it fits the car I think. By the way, that's the largest battery that fits in the battery tray. Also you can see I use XS Power adapters on the posts (posts are actually screw-on, underneath the reproduction spring ring cables). The reason is, the MSD 7 box is powered directly from the battery. This makes a huge difference in ignition performance.

https://i.imgur.com/mv9MIiOh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/PlAN9QJh.jpg

When I mounted the electric fuel pump out back, I decided to use a doubler on the sheetmetal. I built this piece from composite nylon-plastic. The reason for using a doubler is twofold: It prevents cracking sheetmetal (single layer in this case) due to pump vibration and weight It also dampens the noise from the pump. Doubler is installed with AN (aircraft) hardware and I always make sure there is ample edge margin (distance from the drilled hole to the edge of the doubler plate).

https://i.imgur.com/D82ccKVh.jpg

When the spare is installed, most of the doubler is covered up. It also covers up the wiring for the fuel pump. I used a Heyco fastener for the wiring that passes through the sheet metal. This ensures it is sealed tight and doesn't chafe.

https://i.imgur.com/Eqr8udfh.jpg

I used a huge capacity 25-amp switch from Quick Car Racing Products for the fuel pump. It incorporates a flip style safety cover (easy to turn off) along with screw-in terminals. The body is primarily metal. Great quality switch. I do have a relay on hand, but I don't believe (given the low demand of the pump) it is actually required. BTW, the switch installs in a slightly enlarged OEM hole in the dash structure.

https://i.imgur.com/6uhziTQh.jpg

While on the topic of the interior, here's a look at the front, from the passenger side:

https://i.imgur.com/zcVT6a6h.jpg

Backseat (this car was pretty much phenomenal):

https://i.imgur.com/25iKkash.jpg

The engine compartment is done...Stick a fork in it...L-O-L...I think the mix of OEM and aftermarket parts came out great -- Exactly the subtle look I wanted:

https://i.imgur.com/NdHOOz3h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/3LfUQT9h.jpg

On the nose of the car, I had these Korean Kumho P205-70R15 tires on the front. To me, they didn't fill up the wheel well sufficiently. It looked a bit goofy and I wanted a bit more header clearance. In this photo, the hood wasn't on and there wasn't any water in the engine/rad. As a result it dropped down even further:

https://i.imgur.com/mYs8u4hh.jpg

This is the solution: A new set of Toyo P205-75R15 front tires. This provides approximately 5.5 of header clearance. They fill up the wheel well nicely. The same amount of tire is up inside the wheel well front and back and the rubber rake is now 1-inch front to back.

https://i.imgur.com/KlLmCQzh.jpg

This is an older photo inside my old shop, but it shows the paint. Roughly 70% is original lacquer. Yes, there are a few paint chips that have been fixed, and yes, the rockers and the parts of the front fenders have been re-sprayed in lacquer. There are a couple of light scratches on the roof and deck lid from going through an automatic car wash (way back when) and there is a very (Very!) tiny door dent on the left front fender lip. Because of the age of the paint, I decided to leave this scratches alone. But to bring the original lacquer back to life, I use this mix of products. The big secret is Meguiars #7. I hand apply it, rubbing it into the paint surface and allow it to sit for 24 hours. Then I buff it by hand (not easy...L-O-L). According to folks in the know, #7 restores oils in the lacquer. I can't say that's right or wrong, but check out this photo of the hood:

https://i.imgur.com/k5VtGr0h.jpg

My wife made this for me....Perfect! :)

https://i.imgur.com/yg9q7vhh.jpg

On another note, I'm taking the car to a big local indoor show on Easter weekend. I don't really care if I get any awards. The idea is to see some old friends (I moved back to the prairies after 30+ years on the west coast). After the show, I have a hunch I'll put the car up for sale. I'm kind of set on doing one more car (while I can -- old age is creeping up...:) ). The Nova won't be cheap...L-O-L. And if it doesn't sell, it can live happily in my garage.

[Arrowsmith]

Great job Wayne,thanks for taking us along for the ride.I'm sure it will get a lot of attention at he show!!

Thank you. But you know what? I think the average person will just walk on by. I'm ok with that, because that's what I built. :). FYI, I'm parking it right beside an old friend's silver over red '66 427 Corvette. It's drop dead gorgeous, so I know that will be the show stopper.

[BJCHEV396]

I think you'll be surprised at how much attention it gets.Have you taken the Nova out for a shakedown ride yet?

[Arrowsmith]

I think you'll be surprised at how much attention it gets.Have you taken the Nova out for a shakedown ride yet?

I’d love to go for a rip…I’ve tested everything a couple of times over and it’s all a-ok. But we’re still in the firm grip of Winter here on the prairies. I’ll trailer the car to the show.

[Arrowsmith]

I love everything about this car! Great write up Wayne.

Thank you! I appreciate the kind words. 😀

[Xplantdad]

Awesome build Wayne. I love Novas as my first car was a 1972 version. The effort put into the smallest detail on this build amazes me.


Thanks for taking us along on the build :beers:


Have a great time at the show as well....

[Arrowsmith]

Awesome build Wayne. I love Novas as my first car was a 1972 version. The effort put into the smallest detail on this build amazes me.


Thanks for taking us along on the build :beers:


Have a great time at the show as well....

Thank you Bruce! My pal Jeff and I are sharing a (Very!) simple display at the show (couple of lawn chairs, a pair of car info boards and that's about it). We haven't been together at an indoor car show for ...oh...45 years (Yikes!). I'm pretty sure we'll have a good time -- we both have zero expectations of grandeur... :)

[Arrowsmith]

The Draggins Car Show came and went this Easter weekend. Getting ready was pretty much a thrash (aren't they all?). Just before the show, I decided I hated the Mopar SS spring suspension setup I had on the car. The fix was to rip everything out and install a set of Calvert split mono leaf springs and Smith Assassin traction bars (the Assassin bars are far more adjustable than Cal Trac bars and they don't bend springs).

Anyway, the first image is of Plain Jane on my pal Jeff Repski's open trailer, on the way to the show. As you can see, Winter is still here in a big way:

https://i.imgur.com/jgAyJJEh.jpg

Here are two photos of Jane in the show. You can see we had a lavish display...L-O-L:

https://i.imgur.com/vSZtATah.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/OarWY4Ph.jpg

This is my pal Jeff's '66 Corvette. It's just a good old fashioned high quality hot rod. Jeff built this Vette from what could best be described as a rough project car, doing the body work, paint, mechanical and interior installation himself, in his own home shop. It is stellar.

https://i.imgur.com/vuGCAGLh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/2k6511Lh.jpg

The next image is courtesy of Jeff's wife Theresa. It's a loose interpretation of an old Instamatic photo we have of us (Jeff, long time buddy Bryon Marion, myself and my wife Cindy) from the same car show, 45 years earlier.

https://i.imgur.com/xJV3SjAh.jpg

I met all sorts of neat people -- even a couple of very knowledgeable fellow Supercar Registry folks. One of them (and I'm very sorry, I was tired and forgot names...) had -- in the show -- what I believe is the finest 1970 LS6 Chevelle I have ever laid eyes upon -- keeping in mind in my day job I have the opportunity to see more than a few really, really nice cars. I didn't take a photo, but the SS454 was white over black with black stripes. It was done by Rick Nelson and it was absolutely awe-inspiring.

As most of you know, comments from spectators can be funny. One of my fav's was: "I have a Nova just like yours....but mine (his) is better...". L-O-L. One of Jeff's was: "I have a '66 Corvette just like yours....but mine is a (more desirable) split window..."

Even though I never mentioned the car might be for sale, I had several offers on it. When I told them to bring a wheelbarrow full of cash for the car, (north of $100K) most withered. An older (older than us!) gentleman came up to Jeff and offered him a straight across trade with a brand new C8 Corvette. Jeff turned that down too.

When it was all over, I was absolutely shocked to find Plain Jane won Best Street Machine (I'm pretty much wore out here....backstory: There was a good old-fashioned prairie blizzard Friday nite...howling wind and blowing snow. I buried my wife's Honda HRV in the driveway -- and our driveway is almost 1/4 mile long. We had to blow out the snow with our tractor/snowblower, shovel around and under the car, unhook the trailer and pull the car out with our 4X4. The wind finally subsided overnight, and just after daybreak yesterday, I spent several "quality hours: with the tractor and blower cleaning out the driveway again so I could actually get to the show with my pickup truck and Jeff's trailer. I survived...L-O-L...and of course, this coming week, temps are supposed to be near 70-degrees F.)

https://i.imgur.com/0RbA2Dph.jpg

[ls6owner]

Thx for the comments on the Chevelle, Wayne. Much appreciated. It picked up the award for the Restored class for 1970 and '71. It was great to meet you folks, see your cars and have a visit. Also learnt a few things including that you are a another Saskatchewan fellow and that we were almost neighbors many years ago!
Oliver

[Arrowsmith]

Seriously Oliver...

Nicest 1970 Chevelle (LS6 or otherwise) I have ever laid eyes on, and that's coming from a grizzled old magazine guy who has been in the biz for 4 decades. That car deserves every award it receives. And for those who haven't seen it -- if you have an opportunity to look at it -- you should. Simply amazing.:)

[BJCHEV396]

Congrats Wayne...you deserved it bud!!

[Arrowsmith]

Figured some of you might be interested in this video (actually, it's a combination video and slide show). It shows how I rework (blueprint, recurve) a stock Delco point distributor to trigger an MSD ignition box. This arrangement works exceptionally well, is reliable and looks pretty much stock. Also, if you go to some of my other videos, you can see more details on how Plain Jane was constructed.

https://youtu.be/brb5QnCGpN4

[BJCHEV396]

Great tutorial Wayne!

[Arrowsmith]

Here's a short video of my Nova (aka "Plain Jane") idling in our driveway....Hope you dig it!

https://youtu.be/uiXzeQ-IP2c

[Arrowsmith]

Coming soon is a "for sale" ad for the Nova (I'll shoot some fresh photos this week).

[BJCHEV396]

GLWS Wayne.New project in the works bud?

[Arrowsmith]

Thank you. There’s a really nice car I’d like to purchase. But additionally I have a ‘56 Mercury truck that needs my attention. The Merc is an old Farm two ton (M500), but the cab, hood, grille, rad support and a few other items interchange with pickups. I bought it because it only has 61,000 original miles with great sheet metal and original paint. Basically I bought it for the cab. The rest of the pieces to build a hot rod pickup truck are easy to get. :) I have the Merc for sale but if my Nova sells, I think I might keep it.

In case there is some confusion, my Nova is for sale. Ad will appear as soon as I get the photos done.

[Steve Shauger]

Wayne beautiful car and excellent build! GLWS

['69Novajoe]

I am (almost) without words Wayne!! I'm doing a little bit on my Nova as I type this but nothing even close to what you've done!! Thanks for taking us along for the build. With all the details and assembly procedures. Just awesome!! I totally understand why you want to keep it.....it's definitely a "keeper"!! Thanks again!!

[Arrowsmith]

Thank you for the kind words! I really appreciate it! I have more to post now on my car... :)

[Arrowsmith]

Now that NovaJane is staying with me, I decided to address one of my pet peeves (and also a brand spanking new legal issue): Noise! The car is (was) Loud! Essentially, the exhaust consists of race car style 2.25-inch primary tube headers that bolt into a 4-inch collector. From there, each side goes into a 4-inch into a 3-inch slip on reducer and then into a 3-inch exhaust system. The system is made up of a Hooker "X" style cross over and then into a set of 3-inch in and 3-inch out Hooker VR series mufflers (straight through with glass packing). Finally, it exits into 3-inch turndowns in front of the rear axle.

I had the exhaust pretty much nailed down when I moved from the west coast to the prairies. By the time I had the car finished, the province I live in established a new set of noise laws: Cars, light trucks and motorcycles must not be over 101.3 decibels. If the vehicle is below 103.3, you get by with a warning (all tests are on the L-Max scale from idle to 3,750 RPM). Over that dB number, it's a fail and you must fix it. There are several parameters that include where the test equipment is located in relation to the exhaust exit, along with others.

So I decided to test my car:

https://i.imgur.com/vtnYpvih.jpg

L-max was 104.7. Fail! Oops...L-O-L

Now what? I could add tailpipes, but they foul both the electric fuel pump and the home brewed ARB I made for the car. Can't use them. I decided to try a set of dB killing cone inserts in the exhaust. The holes in the cones have more surface area (combined) than the diameter of the pipe. There is very little exhaust restriction.

https://i.imgur.com/iToiuigh.jpg

These cones can go almost anywhere, but they're most effective if they're close to the collector.
So I installed mine in the reducers. The pointy end must face forward. Once installed, each cone was tacked in place (you can actually bolt them in as well).

https://i.imgur.com/15i5xCah.jpg

Next up, my research pointed to using a set of resonators. My dilemma is the straight sections in the cross over aren't very long. Additionally, the exhaust runs very close to the big M-W aluminum driveshaft. That means the resonator body has to be short and relatively small in terms of diameter. So I came up with these straight through 3-inch in, 3-inch out, 4-inch body stainless jobs from Vibrant Performance:

https://i.imgur.com/t6YjMm2h.jpg

I sliced open the exhaust and had a local shop TIG weld the resonators in place. This is the complete "new" system, less mufflers:

https://i.imgur.com/VU7sHGgh.jpg

In order to tighten up the exhaust during the install, I used a ratchet strap hooked to the exhaust and anchored under the car to the front suspension cross member. Worked slick. Then I used a bottle jack to raise it up (it fits tight up under the car):

https://i.imgur.com/IKbpMryh.jpg

Once the mufflers were reinstalled, it was time to test it. I used the same parameters as the "before" test. The results were excellent! The cones and resonators work, without adding a whole bunch of restriction to the exhaust:

https://i.imgur.com/6nDtX2Ah.jpg

If I get stopped and sent to a test station, I'll remove the fan belt. Reason is, big block Novas with long water pumps have no room for a clutch fan. The direct drive fan is quite noisy. I figure running it less fan will should get me down to the legal limit...Worst case scenario is I will get by with a warning...:)

[Arrowsmith]

Maybe I missed it, but what was the "before" db reading?

You didn’t miss it. I just fixed it. The “before” was 104.7. I edited it so many times last night, I edited it right out of there😉

[Arrowsmith]

Here's something for everyone (I think !): I put my Nova together with a DeWitts aluminum rad. It's a beautiful sort-of-stock appearing piece. They also included a cool billet covered rad cap. But in my "stock appearing" mindset, I decided to swap the cap for a reproduction RC15. I never thought anything of it. But when I started driving the car a bit, I was plagued with what appeared to be runaway overheating. It was frustrating, but one day when it was hot, I put a towel over the rad cap to check to see if the coolant was disappearing. No hiss. No steam. Nothing. Further investigation revealed the reproduction cap wasn't seating on the rad neck. Obviously the cooling system wasn't holding any pressure. So I replaced the repro cap with the DeWitts' supplied cap. Bingo. I can park it outside on a 90-degree day, nosed up to the garage door, put it in park, let it idle and walk away without overheating. Instant cooling fix. I wonder how many other repro caps are like this?

https://i.imgur.com/FJ5Hqeih.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/5HXr8O1h.jpg

[427.060]

I have a DeWitts aluminum radiator in my Beaumont. It didn't come with a DeWitts cap.

[Arrowsmith]

I have a DeWitts aluminum radiator in my Beaumont. It didn't come with a DeWitts cap.

Mine did but that's not the point.

[Arrowsmith]

I've got a couple repro caps, one on a dewitt's brass/copper and a couple others on oem recores.....no issues. Does your rad neck measure the same depth and seat diameter as oem? Spring pressure feel the same?

Yes, but I believe the problem is in the cap. Over the years it seems other folks have had similar issues with repro caps. It’s kind of a hit and miss situation from what I decipher. I suspect if I had a rad cap pressure tester, I could nail it down exactly, but honestly since it’s working correctly now, I don’t think I want to spend $$$ on the test equipment😉

[Arrowsmith]

I understand that. My car runs hot when sitting in traffic. I'm wondering if the DeWitts cap will help like it did with your car.

The DeWiits cap is pricey, but I’d first check to see if your system is pressurized correctly (Be careful man…). I was pretty frustrated with mine in traffic until I resolved it. By the way, I can now watch the temp change as the thermostat opens. That wasn’t possible before. It would just keep climbing until the traffic cleared up (or I shut the thing off). I’m currently using a 180 Stewart Thermostat, but I’d like to try a 160 example (I have a similar drilled Stewart on order).

[cheveslakr]

Not suggesting this for you, I'm sure I'd just be happy with the new cap, but someone could just plug a t fitting in the bypass hose and check pressure.

[Arrowsmith]

Not suggesting this for you, I'm sure I'd just be happy with the new cap, but someone could just plug a t fitting in the bypass hose and check pressure.

Good tip.

I can't use it for my car because I don't use a bypass hose (no machined port in the intake). I use a drilled thermostat from Stewart. That part works great.

[Arrowsmith]

Hey Wayne, I've decided to install subframe connectors, as you did, on my Nova. Without looking first, did you encounter a problem with the parking brake cables??

Hi there…they fit nicely with the Competition Engineering connectors I used. If you click to post #137 of this thread you can see the front of the routing. Zero issues at the rear as well….if you jump to the cars for sale section, my ad is still up for the car (although no longer for sale).. there are several good images of the chassis and park brake cables. Hope this helps :)

['69Novajoe]

Thanks for that Wayne!! Also, where were you able to source the stainless parking brake cables??

[Arrowsmith]

Thanks for that Wayne!! Also, where were you able to source the stainless parking brake cables??

IIRC, they came from Inline Tube.

['69Novajoe]

Hey Wayne, another quick question. I know you used different a-arms than what I'm using, but I'm encountering a "problem" and was wondering if you had the same issue. I'm using Global West, both upper and lower arms. The upper ones don't have a location (or threaded "bung"?) for the brake line bracket to hold the flexible line like the stock arms do. And the lower arms don't have any kind of steering stop like the stock ones do. Did yours come with those "provisions" and, if not, how did you address them? :confused2:

[Arrowsmith]

Hi Joe. I have Detroit Speed uppers and lowers in the car. They do not have a provision to clamp the brake hose, but when I built the car I ran the suspension on both sides through full travel and checked the steering lock to lock at the same time. I’m confident the hoses will not be caught anywhere during suspension travel or when turning.

As far as the steering stops are concerned, I have them, so I can’t comment. Plenty of aftermarket an arms do not have steering stops. My blue Nova didn’t have stops (TRZ a arms). The guy who bought it is still delighted with the entire car, so you can take it from there :).

Good luck with the build and if you have any questions, fire away. I’ll answer if I can.

['69Novajoe]

Hi Wayne, just thought of another question. I will probably be buying some new rear axles and will also be needing longer wheel lug studs, since now there are no threads coming through the stock lug nuts!! I know they come in all different lengths but I didn't want to get them too long because I'm concerned they might hit the hub caps!! I'm going with the stock caps just like you have. So, my question is, what length studs did you go with?
Thanks again for all your help!
Joe

[Arrowsmith]

Hey Joe… in next few days I’ll pop off a hubcap and get you a measurement.

[Arrowsmith]

Hello again Joe. The back wheel studs in my Nova are 1/2 x 2.0 - inches. Mark Williams screw in examples, part number 51255. I prefer 1/2-inch studs over the stock 7/16-inch on the rear. Just stronger.

[oldstv]

I am about to take some long ones off my car and put stock length studs back on. What is the stock length for a rear stud that would have been used with a closed end lug nut?

[Arrowsmith]

I don’t use press in stud on the rear and I don’t use closed end lug nuts, so I have no idea. Sorry, I can’t help. I’m sure though that many of the very knowledgeable people on this board can help you out with OEM parts.

[Vortecpro]

At this point I have to know what it ran at the track?

[Arrowsmith]

Never took it to the track. As some here know, my wife is seriously ill. Car is for sale and if it doesn’t sell I’ll probably place it in storage.

[napa68]

I am thrilled to report Wayne and I agreed to terms on the Nova. I've admired this car, the build, and Wayne's detailed approach since I first discovered the car. Ironically, Wayne and I share the same vision for the car moving forward (along with a love for Corvette's).

I'll keep the thread going with updates. Ya never know, may even have to put that 3rd pedal back to use:3gears:

[Arrowsmith]

Great car. Great New Care Taker.... :)

[RPOLS3]

Glad to hear this......congratulations to all.

[dykstra]

AWESOME!!! Congrats to the both of you!

[Too Many Projects]

I am thrilled to report Wayne and I agreed to terms on the Nova. I've admired this car, the build, and Wayne's detailed approach since I first discovered the car. Ironically, Wayne and I share the same vision for the car moving forward (along with a love for Corvette's).

I'll keep the thread going with updates. Ya never know, may even have to put that 3rd pedal back to use:3gears:
Congratulations !! I am surprised to see it's you, doesn't seem like it's "in your wheelhouse" as you call things...:wink:

When I read his other thread, I first thought of Charley, since he loves to build vehicles like this, but then Wayne did mention a Great Guy was the new owner...:CharleySucks:
As a sponsor of SCR, are you going to get it out there this year ?
New year, new owner, may as well start your own new thread, this one is Wayne's and rather personal with his wife's health mentioned.

[napa68]

New year, new owner, may as well start your own new thread, this one is Wayne's and rather personal with his wife's health mentioned.

I'll leave that up to Wayne. You're right Mitch, it is very personal. There is tremendous content Wayne has provided, and I would hate to see it get lost. Perhaps Steve can help with that.

I have had this closet addiction with Nova's. I miss my 67, which was similar in spirit to Wayne's build (although not near the same quality). This was a pump gas 422 SBC with either an M22 or a TKO Tremec behind it.

[TimG]

Congradulations to both buyer and seller on the Nova. What a great car.

[BJCHEV396]

Great car. Great New Care Taker.... :)
Congrats on the sale of your Nova.

[67since67]

Congrats to seller and buyer!! Another visit to the Boulder Beer Bar may be in order :burnout::3gears:

[Xplantdad]

So happy for both Wayne and Tim!




Wayne, your beautiful wife Cindy put up a heck of a fight. She was a true warrior. Thanks for the messages all along. You rock...

[Arrowsmith]

Thank you Bruce.

W

[napa68]

After a long and laborious process (due to US Customs), Plain Jane landed yesterday. By a stroke of luck, the temps were in the 20's as opposed to below zero like it was earlier in the week. As one can imagine, a car with the characteristics Plain Jane possesses, it was still not happy starting out of the trailer. Nonetheless, I got it running and is now safe and warm in the shop.

Once the car was up to temp, I was pleasantly surprised with how docile the car is, especially when compared to the L88 in the HM Camaro. I suppose you could say the size of the motor adds manners.

I was on a tight schedule yesterday. In the short time I looked the car over, I don't know that Wayne's pics did the car (and his work) the justice it deserves. It's a stud! I'll get up close and personal with the car tomorrow.

I'll say it again Wayne.......you were a true gentleman to deal with. Furthermore, very accommodating with the shipping delays. Through it all and more importantly, I feel like I gained a friend.

More to come!

[Arrowsmith]

Thank you for the kind words Tim. I did set it up to be a bit soft on the bottom end, out of respect for the little tires out back (P275-60 Drag Radials)…:), and I think that helps with the manners. I hope you have as much fun with Jane as I had. For me the build is the big pleasure. And I too believe I gained a new friend. You’re in good hands Jane! W

[TimG]

What a beautiful car, I hope to see a good video as the weather gets better.

[PeteLeathersac]

‘

Over the top car and builder also cool again when anything changes hands within the circle here.
:beers:
~ Pete

.

[dykstra]

Such a bad azz ride! I love it!!

[napa68]

All I can say is Wayne did a phenomenal job on this car. It certainly helps when one starts with a low mileage clean unit to begin with. In the pic below, is just a small example of the detail that goes unnoticed until you are right on top of the car. This is how Wayne plumbed the overflow for the radiator......
https://i.imgur.com/65iLjCbh.jpg

The rest of the pics, are basically Nova porn. One can only appreciate the build quality once the car is on a hoist, which we know Wayne did not have the luxury of.

https://i.imgur.com/Hild4DEh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/QJlvqlRh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KohEWzIh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/XPPVGPEh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/BO1yGCBh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/qpZ1cGzh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/I4SLIZQh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1eyl2MCh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/XsAFqfuh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/XXUJh03h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ySVFJOQh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/v3Nht6mh.jpg

[dykstra]

:headbang::headbang::headbang::headbang: This thing has got to be a weapon on the street and hold its own at the track!

[big gear head]

I know it would be a very long haul, but it would be so cool to see this car at the Super Car Reunion.

[Too Many Projects]

I know it would be a very long haul, but it would be so cool to see this car at the Super Car Reunion.
As an SCR sponsor, I think that is a requirement.
Have they set a date for this year yet ??

[Chuck_Burg]

SANO!!!!!!:drool:

[Jeffp920]

That is one clean build. A Lot of good ideas under there. Looking real nice.

[napa68]

In the last few weeks, I've had an opportunity to get the Nova out. Like any new build, there are always a few bugs to work out. I assumed this would be the case, so there is no surprise on my end.

When Wayne and I consummated our deal, we were in the dead of winter. Wayne was kind enough to change the coolant over to an antifreeze blend. Given the time of year, Wayne was not allowed the luxury of time and environment to get the cooling system bled out properly. Wayne did warn me these siamese bore blocks can be a bit tricky to get the air bled out of them properly. There was an issue where the temp would be just fine, then take off......to only come back down to 180, and repeat. Wayne and I had a nice conversation to which he gave me a few tips. I have made some significant improvements in this regard, but I still feel there is room for improvement. I also played around with some timing adjustments, and that showed some gains as well. As many of you know, a combination like this is far from a plug and play.

The brakes are awesome in the car and can back up the performance of the car (more on that later). The pedal pressure is a bit firm. I feel I can improve on that and have a different bore master cylinder. The front suspension combination is firm and holds the road wonderfully. Wayne was quick to point out he wanted as much caster as reasonably possible given the "purpose" of the Nova. Wayne had done the alignment in his shop. I've got to say........this is impressive. I will get the Nova in front of a good local alignment guy to dial that in a bit more.

So the last question that everyone seems to ask.........how's that thing run?
Well......in short.......it's F'n silly. The engine's idle is somewhat docile (if you want to call 1100 rpm docile) and has good manners in a driving scenario. The experience Wayne has in these types of builds is blatantly evident. Between the carb, the converter, and the gearing......the car just works. Mash the loud pedal.......you best be paying attention. If I "whack" the tires hard, they get nice and sticky. Then it's game on. The rear suspension works although the motor can still overpower the "hook". A perfect street car:naughty:

As I had mentioned in a previous post, the fit, finish, and eye for detail on the car can only be appreciated in person. If you spent just an hour looking around the car by yourself, I think many of you could see and appreciate what I see.

This is not an easy car to build. Even more difficult yet to get the project to execute as planned. Wayne has built a killer car here. Furthermore, he was a gentleman to deal with, and the end product was everything he made it out to be.

So, what's next you may ask? I'll share this. Once I am comfortable with the car and happy with all of the little details, I foresee a next stage. Backing up a little bit, one of the questions I asked Wayne when making our deal on the Nova, "if you kept the car, what would you do?" Without hesitation, he said "a stick". (Great minds think alike).

As I write this, a mutual friend of Bill Wente and myself reached out a couple of days ago. One of his friends (Brian's friend) has a brand new M23 from Midwest Muncie (here in Wisconsin) that he is not going to use. These transmissions can handle 800hp on a sticky tire. In order to package everything the way I'd want to, this will be far more than cutting a hole in the floor for the shifter. I would want to keep the bench seat, yet place the shifter as close to me as possible. That would require some surgery on the seat. Then, a stick with this kind of power can hurt a car that is not properly reinforced. The body on this car, the panel fit, and the way it drives is to die for. I have to research my options before moving forward.

My parting comment is this. Jake Dykstra........you are not the only one dealing with project creep:beers:

As my last side note in this post....I think Dave Dykstra found the secret cam grind that's in the 565:burnout:

[Too Many Projects]

Very cool car.
Do you have an evacuation kit for the cooling system ? I have the Airlift brand and it eliminates trapped air in hard to purge systems.
There are MANY different brands and styles now available from several years ago when I got this one. It uses shop air to evacuate and then pulls the mixed coolant back in from a pail.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fi.ebayimg.com%2Fimages %2Fg%2F8F8AAOSwnkRnhAfL%2Fs-l1600.jpg

[napa68]

Very cool car.
Do you have an evacuation kit for the cooling system ? I have the Airlift brand and it eliminates trapped air in hard to purge systems.
There are MANY different brands and styles now available from several years ago when I got this one. It uses shop air to evacuate and then pulls the mixed coolant back in from a pail.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fi.ebayimg.com%2Fimages %2Fg%2F8F8AAOSwnkRnhAfL%2Fs-l1600.jpg

I've got that from a couple of LS builds. That helped. It can be better IMO

[Too Many Projects]

I agree and it looks like there are better kits out now, not so dependent on all the adapters and such to leak.

[Arrowsmith]

Thank you for the kind words Tim. I totally agree with your comments on getting rid of the trapped air inside that big bore Dart block. I didn’t have an evacuation tool so what I did (pre-antifreeze) was to jack the car up front and then back and then from side to side to “shake them loose”. 😅It was never perfect but I’m positive Tim will nail it.

The car will be an absolute riot with a stick! It was my plan from the very beginning but I chickened out, even though I had (at the time) a dual disc Tilton clutch, a scattershield with an adjustment window and a fabricated rod end linkage plus all of the little parts. Getting the right shifter will be the biggest task. A Long inline (a better built, modern version of the old VGate) would be the best but I’m not sure if it will work without considerable tunnel surgery. Next best I think would be a Long H pattern (a better built, modern version of the old Super Shifter), but I never did figure out if it requires cutting of the sheet metal crossmember inside the tunnel. So…get your tape measure out Tim :)! The fun reward will be worth it.

Honestly I’m glad someone like Tim has the car because he has the skills and knowledge to deal with it. The Nova is seemingly tame but at W-O-T it’s a ferocious beast and has the capability of biting back in the wrong hands.

Have fun Tim. The rush as the tach crosses 6500 RPM is, well, considerable! I miss you Nova Jane. W

[scuncio]

Great car, appreciate you keeping us in the loop as you refine it!

Wayne, nice attention to details. Few know how much effort it takes to get that level of appearance on a chassis. Wow.

[big gear head]

As I was watching the build of this awesome Nova the only thing that I was disappointed in was the automatic transmission. I believe a 4 speed will make it complete.

I don't know how much difference there is in the Camaro and Nova floor in the transmission area, but I've had several transmissions and shifters in my '69 Camaro. I started with a M20 with a super shifter. That required a larger hole in the floor, but I was able to bend the tunnel enough to clear the shifter rods without cutting a huge slot in the floor for that. I ran a M23 with a RamRod and a McLeod RXT for a while and my 3600 pound car went 10.85 with that transmission. It would have been quicker if I was a little better at shifting. The car now has a G Force G101A with a Long inline shifter, and I only had to open the hole a little bit for this shifter. I never had to cut into the floor cross member for these shifters. I have the original big block mounts and cross member in my car which moves the transmission to the passenger's side a little bit. That gave me a little more room for the shifter. I can post a few pictures if interested.

[napa68]

I can post a few pictures if interested.

That would be great Freddie. I am definitely going with a Long shifter. Not sure if I'll do the "ram rod" or the H pattern. I had a ram rod in my previous Nova, and it was a hoot. A little cumbersome in a street car, but this sure ain't a daily driver.

Tim

[big gear head]

I'll try to remember to post some pictures later today when I'm on my own computer. Is there something specific that you need to see?

[napa68]

I'll try to remember to post some pictures later today when I'm on my own computer. Is there something specific that you need to see?

Mostly interested in how close the shifter rods are to the tunnel, as well how close the shifter is to the brace. I suppose anything else you feel is of interest Freddie.

Thanks,
Tim

[tom406]

Honest question-why not just use a TKX 5 speed and alleviate the tunnel issues and gain an overdrive gear?

[napa68]

Honest question-why not just use a TKX 5 speed and alleviate the tunnel issues and gain an overdrive gear?

I don't think it would live behind this motor when it hooks. I certainly agree with your point. I also know there are some guys getting a TKX to work in these scenarios. I just hate doing things twice.

[tom406]

Gotcha. I have seen that American Powertrain offers a blueprinted and upgraded TKX that is rated to 900 lb/ft instead of 600. https://americanpowertrain.com/shop/transmissions/tkx-5-speed/tremec-tkx-extreme-upgrade/?srsltid=AfmBOopQAmQ_-jFW8dm40QFYOgqYbofmbabOK0TN0uITvOhmOMbNo3qV

[GrumpyJeff]

I don't think it would live behind this motor when it hooks. I certainly agree with your point. I also know there are some guys getting a TKX to work in these scenarios. I just hate doing things twice.

I would Question the Durability of the Recent M23'S behind that motor too. I grenaded a brand New one within 100 miles of installation with 600 HP & Sticky Street Tires And I know of 3 or 4 other guys who have had similar catastrophic results. A G-Force G101a with a Long H pattern Shifter is the Hot ticket !

[big gear head]

I also broke my M23 on the street, but I think it was my fault for powershifting into second while the tires were still spinning wildly in first. I didn't break it on the strip with slicks. I would launch it at around 5500 and powershift at about 7200. The G101A is a strong transmission, but not a lot of fun on the street due to the harsh shifts with no syncronizers.

[EZ Nova]

Napa, T56 is what you would want. Just not sure if it needs tunnel work in a Nova?

Are you going to run the car at the track as is?

[Arrowsmith]

If everyone here doesn’t mind, I’d like add some info. I researched every available manual transmission and spoke to many folks in the industry before converting the car to an automatic. First… the likely candidates that don’t fit the stock tunnel: A T56 won’t fit in the stock tunnel. A Lenco is the almost perfect solution but it requires considerable tunnel mods along with seat modifications as well as a fabricated trans mounting arrangement.

Next, the transmissions that more or less fit the tunnel: I spoke with the Syracuse Muncie folks (the company that actually builds the new Super Muncies and all of the parts for them). They were very reluctant to actually sell me one, based upon the engine and car specifications. Next I tried to contact Jerico. The original designer and manufacturer of Jerico was an old acquaintance of mine (sadly Jerry Hemmingson passed away a few years back). In truth the new owners of Jerico have placed the company into a place where it may not exist in the future. So then I called Craig Liberty (Liberty Transmissions). Liberty five speeds are the only gearbox used in NHRA Pro stock today. I asked Craig about a modified TKX. He should know because his company modifies and sells them for bigger power applications. When I told him the specs of Jane, he actually laughed at me. Bottom line here is the case isn’t sufficiently strong. I’d be driving over the transmission (pieces). Two good options from Liberty are Craig’s in house clutch type five speeds, but they’ll be noisy and perhaps not much fun on the street. They also require a custom trans crossmember. Next is G Force. They offer four and five speeds. The four speed 101A pretty much bolts in, and as Big Gearhead has pointed out, even with a road race slider, there are some compromises on the street.

Bottom line here though (at least for me) was the only reasonable option was to use the 101A if I decided to use a stick. Now all of you know why the car was completed with a Turbo 400. The problem with any big power street car with an automatic is that it is next to impossible to get enough converter in the car and still have it streetable. And those aren’t only my observations. My old racing partner Mike Pustelny (and the guy who actually designed, prototyped and built the chassis components -parts- for the modern Cobra Jet Mustangs, the Drag Pack Challenger and the five and six gen COPO Camaros) echoed my statement on converters. . Add a reverse pattern valve body with a trans brake and “enough” converter to Nova Jane there would likely be no talk about stick shift transmissions. L-O-L . But streetable modified cars are full of compromises and the Nova I built is certainly no exception.

With all of that said, it’s not my car anymore. It Tim’s. And I’m absolutely positive he can select the best transmission for his needs and desires. Thanks for the opportunity to add my two cents. Wayne

[EZ Nova]

Here is the bolt in T56 kit from American Powertrain. Should call them and see what tu nel mods are needed?
https://americanpowertrain.com/shop/transmission-kits/profit-magnum-kit-for-1968-74-gen-2-x-body-nova-ventura/

[L72Chevelle]

Legend LGT-700 5speed?

[cheveslakr]

If it's the same tunnel or similar to the '64-'72 chevelle, you basically have to raise the entire tunnel over the trans an inch. I did this twice and used another tunnel "cap" out of a different car and fully welded it. This actually helped the loose carpet from ACC fit a bit better. If you've got a rubber mat, no clue.
I have a Jerico roadrace trans used in Michael Wallace' car in the Watkins Glen course. IIRC, it's a 2.78 first gear 4 speed. I ran it in my '55 chevy for maybe 1000 miles. It's a beast, and I had to learn the tricks of adapting it to street use. It also saw several 1/4 miles bouts, dropping the full metallic clutch at 7000. It's virtually perfect inside and sitting, waiting for a future project. Had no idea Jerico was under new ownership. Makes me a bit concerned of ever needing parts. The heim joiint linkage would likely need a bit of messaging on the left side tunnel.

[big gear head]

This is my '69 Camaro with big block engine mounts and big block transmission cross member. The first picture shows the size of the hole needed when I installed the Ram Rod on a M20. The next pictures are of a Super Shifter, the Ram Rod and the Long inline shifter. The next pictures are of the hole needed to get the Long shifter to fit. I was able to bend the side of the tunnel enough to get enough clearance for the rods to clear without having to cut anymore out of it. The next one shows the difference between the M23 with the Ram Rod and the G101A with the Long shifter. Notice the vent on top of the M23. If you don't want oil on your transmission when drag racing you need to fix your vent like this. The last one is my car with the M23 on a high 10 second run. I picked up .200 when I put the G101A in it with no other modifications. I know this is a lot to add to the original post, so have it deleted after you look at it if you want. I don't know how close the Camaro and Nova tunnels are in size and location, but hopefully this will help.

[Arrowsmith]

Legend LGT-700 5speed?

I believe they went out of biz a while back. The FB page hasn't been updated in eight years.
W

[Arrowsmith]

Freddie (Big Gear Head) This is awesome information and equally great pix for anyone with a similar car (floorpan)!...above...

W

[EZ Nova]

I think the TKX will be "ok" if this is 90/10 street to track time car? And without slicks, that would help too. Also, look at a clutch tamer to help the trans live at the track

https://grannys.tripod.com/clutchtamerdiy.html

NAPA, are you going to take this car to the dragstrip and race this car? Reason I ask is MY '69 Nova SS396 has been 10.40's with a mildish 396/402 and the Polishing Sneakers 427/433. Those were accomplished with a M21 over about 3/4 years, mostly a streetRACED car. Traded for a built PG with 5500 converter. I lasted another 5 years on the street in a '69 Chevelle with a nice 406.

I launched the car @ 5500 with 4.56 in a 12 bolt with GY 9 x 30 slick. I used a Ram 3800 lbs B & B pressure plate with a Ram 3 disc clutch WITHOUT springs.

IF your just racing the car, Ya the TKX won't live, then go with a Liberty LSC5?00 trans.

[napa68]

This is my '69 Camaro with big block engine mounts and big block transmission cross member. The first picture shows the size of the hole needed when I installed the Ram Rod on a M20. The next pictures are of a Super Shifter, the Ram Rod and the Long inline shifter. The next pictures are of the hole needed to get the Long shifter to fit. I was able to bend the side of the tunnel enough to get enough clearance for the rods to clear without having to cut anymore out of it. The next one shows the difference between the M23 with the Ram Rod and the G101A with the Long shifter. Notice the vent on top of the M23. If you don't want oil on your transmission when drag racing you need to fix your vent like this. The last one is my car with the M23 on a high 10 second run. I picked up .200 when I put the G101A in it with no other modifications. I know this is a lot to add to the original post, so have it deleted after you look at it if you want. I don't know how close the Camaro and Nova tunnels are in size and location, but hopefully this will help.
Thanks Freddie for the pics and the insight, as well as the rest of you that took the time to toss in some thoughts / experience. I've got some information to digest now. A call to American Powertrain may be in order. I'm a little skeptical that they can raise the torque rating 50% with what looks to be the same case. I'll follow up!

Tim

[EZ Nova]

Tim, what is the Hp and Tq rating on this engine?

[Arrowsmith]

Stolen Photo. This is what happens to a blue printed, faceplated TKX when fed big power (this was actually in a Cobra kit car -- clearly lighter than a Nova or Camaro). Work was done by Liberty. The case is too thin and there's not much anyone can do about it, at least within reasonable $$$. Now you know why Liberty was amused by my question of using one in “Jane”. :)

https://i.imgur.com/hcIhXwyh.jpg

[Too Many Projects]

I believe they went out of biz a while back. The FB page hasn't been updated in eight years.
W
They never, really, got rolling, as the owner took too long to build them 1 at a time. A friend of mine, with a '68 Chevelle 425 hp/383 got one several years ago and it had issues with clearance between 2 gears and kept taking out a roller bearing. I don't recall, exactly what the issue was, but he had it out and part 3 times and it took him many months to get parts for it and then he and another friend modified some of the pieces and tightened up end play and got it working good. For now. He knows if it breaks, there is no possibility of parts anymore and it will just be an expensive shelf ornament.
Last I heard about the owner, he wasn't going to sell the patents or designs for anyone else to build them and it is dead. Could be wrong about that and never say never, but it hasn't resurfaced in recent years. Jodie Haag doesn't have any mention of them on his website, nor does 5speed.com, other than attempting to get parts, maybe.

[markjohnson]

Many of these new manual transmissions have thin die-cast cases & tail housings. They try to rib them up but the strength is just not there compared to a thick-walled sand casting.

[napa68]

Tim, what is the Hp and Tq rating on this engine?

The better part of 800hp

[big gear head]

Contact Jody Haag at Jody's Transmissions. He was building Super T 10s for drag racing. Maybe he can help.

I have been using a Clutch Tamer with the McLeod RXT clutch. The Clutch Tamer is probably why the M23 didn't break while racing.

[EZ Nova]

BGH, Grant has been saying for years it's the clutch and it's engagement as usually why trans break. Big power, spinning at say 7000 RPMs, sticky track and slicks, Trans is fine driving around the pits. Now get to the line, dump it at that 7000 with a good still clutch, SOMETHING as to happen? Either car moves forward/UP, clutch clips, engine bogs or trans breaks?

Over clutch it with power can break the trans. This is partially why slipper clutches and CLUTCH TAMER were invented. How many years were Doug Nash 4+1 and Richmond 5 sps running with power and slicks? And I think the Nash were only rated at 450 lbs/ft of torque. BUT there you guys running them got years.

This is why I said to Napa, he's got some $$$ to do it right, so just go T56 and you get it rated @ 1000 lbs/ft and be done with it. Get some to "message" the tunnel to look OEM if needed.

When I had my 1988 5.0 convert GT Mustang, I went thru 11 T5's. NEVER at the track, always just on the street, usually playing a bit. Car was stock at the time, with 100 shot nitrous, long tube headers and McCreary "DIRT 60" tire. Ran 11.70's.

"BANGIN" Bob Hanlon from Hanlon Motorsports used to have a front plate conversion for the later Mustang 5 sp, I think they are 3650s, that you could put it behind a chevy and was good to about 500/550Hp. They were plentiful and cheap, so you could by 2 or 3 and swap them out WHEN they had issues.

[Chuck_Burg]

With that much power, I'd go with a G Force 4 Speed. My buddy broke his M23 twice with a 700hp 496 and slicks and 4.56 gears, no clutch tamer.... My M23 has held up well at the track, but only has around 12 passes, I'm guessing my 496 has around 550hp. My M23 had to be repaired by Autogear twice under warranty because of quality control issues. If I was going to do this allover again, I probably would use something beefier.

[napa68]

Sounds like you cannot buy anything that is worth a chit anymore. Even when it's expensive

[Chuck_Burg]

I agree with you. My M23 had issues with both 2nd and 3rd gear. The gears were not made correctly, they synchro rings didn't mesh with the gear properly. The ramp angle on the gear cone were not exactly parallel with the synchro ring which wouldn't allow it to shift into the next gear (2nd or 3rd) above 4,0000rpm... After replacing the gears, it's worked flawlessly. I had a close ratio Autogear M22 in the past which was the nicest shifting 4 speed I've ever felt but I never raced it with slicks.

[Too Many Projects]

Sounds like you cannot buy anything that is worth a chit anymore. Even when it's expensive
This might be coming down to, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" and just leave the TH400. OR, remove some of the bite from the beast so you aren't breaking manual transmissions ... :hmmm:

[EZ Nova]

Napa, you can also call these guys @ Modern Driveline. They have a T56 package to use behind the Mopar Hellephant motor that make 1000Hp and 950 Tq.

A Hellephant make quite a good more bit Hp and Tq then your 565, and the new Challengers are what 1000lbs heavier.

[napa68]

Napa, you can also call these guys @ Modern Driveline. They have a T56 package to use behind the Mopar Hellephant motor that make 1000Hp and 950 Tq.

A Hellephant make quite a good more bit Hp and Tq then your 565, and the new Challengers are what 1000lbs heavier.

A T56 would require a complete tunnel replacement. Given the extra height as well as the extra length necessary, That would interfere with the bench seat. That's a no go for me.

[cheveslakr]

Good point on the length Tim. On my '66 chevelle bench seat, the tunnel mod actually created a slight interference with the center of the seat frame. It's all the way back, since I'm 6'3", and it'll only get tighter moved forward. You're going about this in a comprehensive way, which so many don't. I used an LT1 T56, which added another cost being the $400 conversion flywheel. I was lucky enough to get the clutch master and line with my tranny. You'd also need a new driveline. The speedo is another issue, which is doable on a T56 magnum, but it's not on the standard LT1 based T56, which would necessitate a GPS conversion speedo.

[GrumpyJeff]

Yep , Jody Haag is the Man to Talk Too ...

[L78_Nova]

Once you've powershifted a faceplated trans you will never go back.
G-Force for the win at that power level. G101 or GF5R

If synchros are necessary the GF3650 is the best fit for the tunnel and power level

Slipper clutch is the key to not smashing teeth even at way lower power levels.

All hardcore stuff but you get to keep the Man pedal !!

[markjohnson]

Listen . . . . I absolutely kneel & worship at “The Church Of The 3rd Pedal” with my current rides having an M22 RockCrusher & The Other having a Liberty clutch-less 5-speed but I’ve had fast automatics too & they certainly have their place in the world. We all know the quality of Wayne’s builds & that car has a heck of a nice TH400 with a great torque converter behind it. Not to even mention Wayne’s skills & abilities at transmission cooler plumbing that would be a Federal Crime to undo. I’d leave it alone for two giant reasons:

1: It’s absolutely foolproof in its current reliable form & gives you time to point & steer such an incredibly fun, overpowered/undertired beast!

2: It will save you 2.5 years of fiddling with a slipper clutch to even get it halfway right before you just wanna go back to the click-click TH400. This thought also comes with deep regret after looking up at the large transmission tunnel hole for a crazy-looking linkage that’s currently for sale on RJ.

3. Yeah, I’m gone add a third: Good trans, good flywheel, scattershield, GOOD(!!) clutch, driveshaft, etc. = Low 5-figures for parts that will actually live after MUCH testing.

[GrumpyJeff]

Listen . . . . I absolutely kneel & worship at “The Church Of The 3rd Pedal” with my current rides having an M22 RockCrusher & The Other having a Liberty clutch-less 5-speed but I’ve had fast automatics too & they certainly have their place in the world. We all know the quality of Wayne’s builds & that car has a heck of a nice TH400 with a great torque converter behind it. Not to even mention Wayne’s skills & abilities at transmission cooler plumbing that would be a Federal Crime to undo. I’d leave it alone for two giant reasons:

1: It’s absolutely foolproof in its current reliable form & gives you time to point & steer such an incredibly fun, overpowered/undertired beast!

2: It will save you 2.5 years of fiddling with a slipper clutch to even get it halfway right before you just wanna go back to the click-click TH400. This thought also comes with deep regret after looking up at the large transmission tunnel hole for a crazy-looking linkage that’s currently for sale on RJ.

3. Yeah, I’m gone add a third: Good trans, good flywheel, scattershield, GOOD(!!) clutch, driveshaft, etc. = Low 5-figures for parts that will actually live after MUCH testing. Gotta Say as a Hard Core 4 Speed Believer , I think Mark pretty much Hit the Nail on the Head !!!

[napa68]

Listen . . . . I absolutely kneel & worship at “The Church Of The 3rd Pedal” with my current rides having an M22 RockCrusher & The Other having a Liberty clutch-less 5-speed but I’ve had fast automatics too & they certainly have their place in the world. We all know the quality of Wayne’s builds & that car has a heck of a nice TH400 with a great torque converter behind it. Not to even mention Wayne’s skills & abilities at transmission cooler plumbing that would be a Federal Crime to undo. I’d leave it alone for two giant reasons:

1: It’s absolutely foolproof in its current reliable form & gives you time to point & steer such an incredibly fun, overpowered/undertired beast!

2: It will save you 2.5 years of fiddling with a slipper clutch to even get it halfway right before you just wanna go back to the click-click TH400. This thought also comes with deep regret after looking up at the large transmission tunnel hole for a crazy-looking linkage that’s currently for sale on RJ.

3. Yeah, I’m gone add a third: Good trans, good flywheel, scattershield, GOOD(!!) clutch, driveshaft, etc. = Low 5-figures for parts that will actually live after MUCH testing.

Gotta Say as a Hard Core 4 Speed Believer , I think Mark pretty much Hit the Nail on the Head !!!

I gotta agree with both Mark and Jeff. The car is an absolute blast just the way it is. In my mind, I'm a hardcore 3 pedal guy as well. I agree with your sentiments Mark about a 5 digit spend. Not that I'm not willing to spend that on this car, but I may also sign up for more part breakage in the future. Given we are at the beginning of the summer, I won't be taking the car apart anytime soon.

Wayne and I chatted a bit offline. He made a solid point if I were to make the 3rd pedal active again, a 4 speed (be it G101A or M23) should allow the use of the trans crossmember and the VERY expensive driveshaft the car has right now.

I'll keep you guys posted!

[napa68]

Once you've powershifted a faceplated trans you will never go back.
G-Force for the win at that power level. G101 or GF5R

If synchros are necessary the GF3650 is the best fit for the tunnel and power level

Slipper clutch is the key to not smashing teeth even at way lower power levels.

All hardcore stuff but you get to keep the Man pedal !!

I gotta admit, I've never driven a faceplated trans before. I'm sure it's addictive:naughty:

[napa68]

I have one remaining thought in the back of my head about the combination in the Nova, and that revolves around Tracey. I have the unicorn of a wife that actually likes these types of cars, and wants to drive them. She could handle the 422 powered 67 Nova (600hp) I used to have, but also made it clear she was not a big fan of the ram rod when I had it in there. While this sounds kind of morbid, I wonder if something happened to me, which cars would she keep? She digs this Nova almost as much as I do. I did get a bit of a stink eye from her when I showed her the M23 with the Long "ram rod":rolleyes2:

She can certainly handle the TH400, and can handle a trans with synchro's. The faceplated thing, that may be where the line is. I have not had a problem with finding my way around synchro tranny's before, I just have not had a car at this power level. I also have to be honest with myself how often I am going to use the car at it's potential?

[EZ Nova]

Napa, what do you figure this motor is making Hp and Tq wise?

[Too Many Projects]

"I also have to be honest with myself how often I am going to use the car at it's potential?"


I feel this is the first, and biggest, question you need to come to terms with and work from that.
Honestly ? I don't see you getting crazy and possibly crashing the car, so using the "potential" will be minimal.

If the current engine is not easily and economically feasible to de-tune to a more un-beastly and manual transmission friendly state, pickle it and the TH and install a healthy big block and manual that fits the tunnel and will handle that power level. The only extra cost downside will be another driveshaft to handle 600 +/- hp, torque and critical speed of the rpm the shaft will encounter at the given red line of the engine. You'll always have the beast waiting in the corner for whatever the future holds.
Good luck with your decision...:flag:

[napa68]

Tim, what is the Hp and Tq rating on this engine?

The better part of 800hp

Napa, what do you figure this motor is making Hp and Tq wise?

The better part of 800

[EZ Nova]

Ok I figured about 760Hp and 730/750Tq.

[EZ Nova]

Napa, just get put and use that beauty and see how you like it. Wayne built it with drag race inspired driving with the shocks suspension engine and trans stuff. But car will get kicked out of every track for no roll bar or cage.

BUT you could look at Killgore shifters and try their lightning rods? You could shift like a 4 sp, wife can drive it? Just another option.

[DW31S]

We run Jerico 4-speeds and although the company itself is struggling, there are sources for parts. The Achilles Heel in the DR4 is the 3-4 shift fork finger but they are readily available from Magnus Performance in N.C. I’ve dealt with Mike at Magnus and do recommend him. We also run the Long inline shifters and recommend them. As for clutches, I run a McLeod Soft-Lok fully adjustable and the rest of the team uses Boninfante products. Changing that Nova to a bulletproof stick isn’t insurmountable, but it will be pricey. I know the floor is an important part of the equation, but if you really plan to beat the snot out of it as we do, I’d suggest at least a G-Force or even a Liberty. Most of Hemi guys run Liberty stuff and rarely do they have issues, but they don’t have stock tunnels. Lots to consider besides just the trans itself in terms of safety and rigidity, especially if that car doesn’t have a cage (can’t remember for sure, but I don’t think it does). Dropping the hammer with that much power in a car without proper chassis set-up is gonna create a lot of twisting if you get it to hook. Wayne is an old racer, and I’m sure he would agree.

[napa68]

Dropping the hammer with that much power in a car without proper chassis set-up is gonna create a lot of twisting if you get it to hook. Wayne is an old racer, and I’m sure he would agree.

I agree. As I vaguely touched on, there would be more to the car than just the trans. I figured a 6pt. bar would be in order so the doors shut in the future. The body lines on the car are way too nice to not address the chassis some more. One of my friends used to be a fabricator for Jeg Coughlin (he has his own shop now). I know he can fab up a really discreet bar for it, but it all comes with a price.

[dykstra]

I have one remaining thought in the back of my head about the combination in the Nova, and that revolves around Tracey. I have the unicorn of a wife that actually likes these types of cars, and wants to drive them. She could handle the 422 powered 67 Nova (600hp) I used to have, but also made it clear she was not a big fan of the ram rod when I had it in there. While this sounds kind of morbid, I wonder if something happened to me, which cars would she keep? She digs this Nova almost as much as I do. I did get a bit of a stink eye from her when I showed her the M23 with the Long "ram rod":rolleyes2:

She can certainly handle the TH400, and can handle a trans with synchro's. The faceplated thing, that may be where the line is. I have not had a problem with finding my way around synchro tranny's before, I just have not had a car at this power level. I also have to be honest with myself how often I am going to use the car at it's potential?

There's a joke in there somewhere.......:biggthumpup:

[cheveslakr]

Not a nova guy, but the second gen novas were built with a b-pillar much should make the body perform like a chevelle sedan, which is a big advantage to the twisting of the hardtops.

[Too Many Projects]

There's a joke in there somewhere.......:biggthumpup:
Bit of a "smut head" aren't you ??


I knew I liked you... :cool2:

[NorCam]

I ran a low compression pump gas 565 Dart Big M in my last 55 Chev that made 732/713 with a T56 in behind it. Out back was a mini tubbed 4 link 9" and the car was tied in with an 8 point cage which helped stiffen it up. Fun street car that ran through the gears in OK fashion if you were banging on it...but clearly, the trans didn't like the power. I had to modify the tunnel for that case to fit too, and now that I am building another 55 with a little less power, I have gone with the TKX 5-speed which really is the best of best from what Jody Haag told me.

Rows like a 4 gear when you just want to cruise, but can bang gears better than the T56 while standing up to about 700hp with no problem. I'll have this one on the road real soon and can't wait to try it out. Running a McLeod hydraulic clutch on this one and a Quick Time bell housing.