Street Freak Rambler build

[LetsFNgo]

So here’s a new build thread for the forum. Unlike my last 2 this one is more ongoing and is still very far away from any type of completion. So they’ll be a couple of posts bringing it up to speed then I’ll post when I do or get something.

My SC Rambler needs a lot of parts. I already had 1 parts car, but had an opportunity to purchase this car for 800 bucks and couldn’t say no. It started life as a bottom of the barrel base model 1968 2 door post Rambler. 199 straight 6 auto with almost no options. At some point in its life it got smacked lightly in the right front corner but not hard enough to damage anything major. I originally wanted it because unlike most Ramblers, the quarters on this car are fairly nice and don’t have any rot holes. Which is a major win for me.

Once getting the car home it sat, and sat, and sat. And when I finally went to cut it apart realized the little car was way too nice to cut up even though I didn’t need another project. Talking to my dad about it one evening over a couple beers we both complained about never building a gasser. But I have that 68 Rambler. Which is basically a poorly built slightly uglier Chevy II. So why not use that?

So soon after a Speedway straight front axle showed up at my door, and a Dana 60 I had laying around for something else got pushed into service for this car.

Will continue in another post. Pics are up to this point.

[LetsFNgo]

So parts started being ordered.

A friend donated a set of 5.13 gears for the Dana 60 and while I was originally hoping to use a factory Dana Sure Grip I picked up that turned out to be no good. So a spool got installed instead. I put the whole 60 together one weekend and loosely installed it. A set of new N50-15’s I had are mounted on old American Racing slot mags in the back. And I’d love to find a set of slot mag front runners, for now I have a set of 14x6 slot mags I’ll eventually use on the front.

The speedway kit installed easily. I was able to use 1 of the factory strut rod mount holes to set my front axle and was able to make the whole straight axle a bolt in affair up to this point. I still need to figure out front shock mounts. But that’ll happen soon.

To help with mock up I installed a junk 360 amc block, the scattershield and 2.64 first gear T10 I’m going to use. The engine combo will be in the next post.

[LetsFNgo]

So the original plan for the engine was to use parts I had laying around to put something together, unfortunately the original 360 block I planned to use was no good(cam bearings were loose) so that block got used for mockup and a 68/9 390 block and crank I picked up rough and cheap got sent to the machine shop. Where it all still currently is.

I started ordering parts planning to do a 12.5:1 390 with my tunnel ram and twin Dominators. But a mistake I made ordering pistons turned into something better. The pistons that showed up from weisco are dished pistons, putting my compression ratio at 10:1 at the best. But when something like that happens the best thing to do is bolt a blower on it. So I picked up 3 8v71 Detroit diesel blowers(1 is actually for a 92 series). And I’ve ordered all the parts to convert one to gas use. AMC blower manifolds are incredibly expensive, so I sourced an Offenhouser dual quad manifold and sent to a local machine shop with the blower for mock up. He’s going to modify the Offy manifold and weld a plate to it to mount the 8v71 blower.

Otherwise the engine is a .030 over 390 with forged Weisco pistons and Molnar connecting rods. Crower is making a custom cam for the blower(they’re also taking back the other cam I originally ordered for the higher compression build so I can’t recommend them enough). It’s going to be a solid flat tappet custom grind with about .550 valve lift and 114 lobe separation. The heads are ported 1970 390 291C cylinder heads. I’m hoping to make between 8-10 pound of boost with the blower.

[LetsFNgo]

And finally here’s where we are today.
Ran to the machine shop and dropped off the pistons, stopped by the other machinist doing the crank to drop off 1 rod with a bearing in it for him to measure and start cutting the crank.

I’m still quite a ways away from building the engine but it’s coming along. The heads are being worked on, the block is being sent out for align honing before the crank bearings get installed and measured so the crank guy can cut the mains to size so all my clearances are 100% right the first time. Hopefully by the end of this month the block will be mostly done. We’ll need the crank to mock up and see how deep in the hole the piston and rod combo is. Since I’m using 401 length rods and pistons I’m going to end up down in the hole probably .040”. But for a low compression blower build that’ll probably be ok.

Came home and began mocking up the ladder bars for the front mounts and the headers so I can start cutting things. The drivers side fits minus the steering shaft. The passenger side is a shitshow and will require quite a bit of cutting to fit. I’m trying to jam Hooker 7103 AMX 1 7/8 headers into an area not designed for them at all. Luckily since I’m not using the front suspension mounting holes I can cut what I need and go back and clean it up later.

Thanks for reading.

[big gear head]

Are you going to use housing floaters on the rear end? If you don't your suspension is going to bind up.

[LetsFNgo]

That’s actually a problem I’m trying to work through. I was thinking of mounting the eyelet of the bar into a shackle. That should allow it to move while still helping to limit axle twist. Honestly I don’t know much about the housing floaters and I really don’t want to rely on the bars to locate the rear axle.

[big gear head]

I used Alston housing floaters on my Camaro before I switched to coil over shocks. They worked great with my ladder bars and allowed for ride height adjustments.

[LetsFNgo]

Little update
Had a couple hours yesterday afternoon to start really gutting the car to begin all the paint and bodywork. The real pain is going to be removing all the undercoating all over the undersides of the car. I have a portable sandblaster that I’m hoping does a decent job of blasting all of the undercoating and rust, then I can do the small rust repair work and begin sanding the body. My dad and I also need to finish removing the rear window and a few other things.

[RALLY]

Love this build. Keep us posted.

[LetsFNgo]

Small update
Picked up a set of carbs I plan to use. They’re in the mail right now. Holley 6109 Tunnel Ram 750 double pumpers. I’m sure they’ll need rebuild kits and I’m not sure what will need to be changed to be run on top of a blower. But I’ll figure it out.
Also spent some time this week rebuilding the blower. I’ll take some pictures tomorrow since it’s under my workbench but it’s all blasted and cleaned. The rotors are now triple pinned and I have the front and rear plates ready with new bearings and seals.
Should have some other updates in the coming weeks. I need to order a rollbar since I want it to be able to run down to 10.0 without an issue. I’m not a fan of rollbars/cages on the street but I’d like to do dragweek/sickweek and other drag and drive stuff with this car. Which also means I might swap the 5.13’s out of the Dana too. But we’ll cross that bridge in the future.

Last picture is my son helping to disassemble a spare 8v92 blower I picked up.

[LetsFNgo]

This is pretty embarrassing, but I’m posting this for posterity in hopes that at some point I can post pictures of the same thing but better.
I need to work on my bodywork, sanding, and painting, and I want to learn line work and other stuff. So here’s my first attempt with a spare Rambler decklid I had laying around.
Today I used paint remover and removed this paint job, sanded the decklid with 80 grit because I found that the first sanding job I did wasn’t good enough, and now I’m hoping to prime and paint this decklid again after fixing a couple small pinholes in the corners.
Also today I removed the inner structure from it because I want to do a pin on hood and decklid and wanted to make sure there wasn’t anything special about removing it before I cut up the nice original lid on this car.
After sanding with 80 I hit it with 400 on the DA sander. For now I’m just using cans. Once I play with the line work enough I’ll move up to using a paint gun. Hopefully at some point I stop sucking so much at it.

I should be picking up the block, heads, and possibly the crank in the next couple weeks after the machine work is finished. I’ll post some pictures once I have those parts in my basement for assembly.

[LetsFNgo]

Here’s the decklid at the end of the day. It’s pretty pitted once sanded down but for a practice piece will be just fine. Also included is a photo of the custom Crower blower cam spec card when it arrived at my door Friday. I need to call them tomorrow for a valve spring recommendation.

[LetsFNgo]

Stopped at the machine shop today. The small local guy I use doesn’t have the ability to align hone the mains so it’s going to another shop about 10 minutes away. He’s hoping to knock it out tomorrow and finish boring and honing the block to the piston size by the end of the week. The heads should be done tomorrow as he actually had valve springs brand new in the box that he can use for my cam. Head porting and cleanup is just about done. He’s very happy with everything.

There are a few other modifications he’s doing to the block before it’s done. They include:

Running a long drill bit through all of the mains to make sure the factory actually did their job. It’s very common on AMC blocks to find the mains on 4 and 5 not actually drilled to full size. They just ran the bit until it broke through and pulled it out. This causes low oil flow to the back two mains which already have oiling issues on AMC engines due to poor oil passage design.

Drilling a port to feed the external sump oil pan through the block on the inlet side of the pump. It gets drilled and finished to 1/2”npt.

Knocking a bunch of flashing off the block where the heads return oil and drilling a bunch of small holes in the upper cam webbing so the oil returns to the sump instead of sitting in the top of the engine.

Drilling the main oil feed to the mains to feed oil direct from the front passage to mains 4 and 5. This is mostly unnecessary if you make sure the holes are drilled, but even AMC themselves recommended this line and more oil to the mains is never a bad thing.

Running a tap into the drivers side oil feed and restricting oil flow to the left side of the block. The oil galley on the left side only feeds oil to the cam lobes and valvetrain for the left side. Restricting it helps oil to the mains(see a pattern here?)

I have the oil pump and front cover for this engine mostly assembled under my bench at work. I’ll probably finish it up this week. The factory pumps flow a ton of oil when the clearances are set properly(read:tight) but are hampered by an oil system that prioritizes the cam over the main bearings.

Also spent some time today after my sons doctors appointment disassembling sheet metal off the front of the car, and test fitting the radiator. It’s a basically new 440 6 pack Challenger radiator I bought before I bought the twice as expensive “correct” radiator. It’s much larger than the factory Rambler rad so it should help. Just need to get it to fit nicely.

[MarcDant]

Nice thats going to be a wild ride.

[LetsFNgo]

Morning update on the gasser.
Front cover is assembled and clearances are set. Gears stick out of the case .006-.007” selected a gasket that I measured at .009. Meaning loose I’ll have clearances at .002-.003. I’d prefer it a touch tighter but it’ll work fine this way. I’ve had issues when I ran around .005-.006 because with heat those clearances open up.

Blower is also mostly assembled. I used the factory shims behind the drive gear and after assembly my rotor to rotor clearance is .009-.010. Some say it should be tighter but I’m not trying to make 20psi out of it. Rotor to bottom case clearance is .005-.006 which is perfect. Of course I lost my front cover gasket so I need to order a new one.

[LetsFNgo]

Small update. Should have a larger one in the next week or 2.
My dad and I decided that a proper gasser needs white fenderwell headers and a flip front end. Obviously no one makes one for a Rambler so we’re going to weld a hood and fenders together and try to build something fairly light. Otherwise we began cutting the inner fenders out of the car.

After some discussion with my dad I think I’m going to send the car out and have a 12 point cage put in to tie the car together since I’m cutting so much out of it. At this point I doubt the body and suspension weighs 1000 pounds. I can pick up the front end with no engine and trans by myself to put it on jackstands. I’m fairly certain with a blown 390, 4 speed, and 5.13’s on sticky tires it’s going to be a terrifying ride and while I’m not a fan of cages on a street car, I’d like to do some drag and drive stuff eventually and will need to follow the safety rules. I’m still shooting to make the car look like 1970 though.

Couple of front end removal pictures. More to follow in the coming weeks. Most of my spare time the last couple weeks was spent cleaning out the garage so over the winter we can do the bodywork and paint it in the spring.

[LetsFNgo]

Another small update on the street freak.
T10 is coming apart so the gears can be sent to Liberty for faceplating. For the first time liberty thinks they figured out how to faceplate 1 and 2 inside a T10. So they’re going to try it to my gears and hopefully it fits back in the case.

Also finished trimming all the old sheet metal off the frame rails and firewall. The car is going to a chassis shop after MCACN to a 10 or 12 point cage and to have custom fenderwell headers made I’m going to have coated white. Because that’s the best header color.

Otherwise I ordered all the shock mounting stuff as well as leaf spring sliders I’m going to use on the ladder bars so they don’t bind up the leaf springs.

Both 6109 Holleys are rebuilt and only need jets to be pressed into service.

Should have more soon. Thank you.

[Lynn]

"This is pretty embarrassing,..."

I would disagree. That's how we learn; by doing.

You gotta start somewhere.

Saw a signature line that read: "I have never failed. I just discovered 1,000 ways that don't work."

Mom taught me that ordinary folks can accomplish the extraordinary if they are willing to work hard enough. Sometimes that means "practicing" until we get it right.

Heck, even my Doctor is still "practicing"!!!

I appreciate the thread, and appreciate you being willing to post good bad and ugly.

[LetsFNgo]

Thanks for the kind words. I’m happy you enjoy the thread.
My dad and I had some time today to work on the car. Didn’t get as much done as I wanted but still got something accomplished and it’s a good feeling.

My dad started the day sandblasting the front frame rails while I worked on setting up the pin on decklid. I’m not exactly happy with our sandblaster but it did ok. I might end up paying to have someone come to my house and do it. But for now it’ll work and I’m grateful my dad was there to do it. I got one set of pins for the decklid done and I’m still waiting on the second set from eBay.

I couldn’t bring myself to buy new Made in China sets so I found NOS Made in USA Mr Gasket sets and I’m going to use the. It’s stupid but I hate supporting the CCP.

After that my dad and I welded the hood to the fenders and began the long process of setting up the tilt front end. I need to get some small square tube to make a frame and then figure out my mounting and hinge.

Last picture is of a Mallory Coil and Super CD box I picked up on some crazy aluminum mount with an oil pressure and water temp sending unit crudely mounted to it. Pretty interesting.

After that we cleaned up and I walked my son down to the park to play with my wife and parents. All in all a very good day. Thanks for reading.

[Too Many Projects]

Those siphon pot blasters can be frustrating to get, and keep, flowing well.
I have an Eastwood pressure pot blaster that isn't much better. Very finicky to adjust for the right amount of media.
They both require patience and a lot of time, as they aren't quick about getting a big area done.
The hood/fender marriage looks good. A temp frame to keep it from flexing and bending is good, but since the rails will need to be tied to the body with the cage, you may want to wait for the final hood frame to fit around the cage.
It could well be a 1 of a kind AMC at the shows and strip..:cool2:

[LetsFNgo]

Small update for the day.
Sometimes you need to do something motivating more than you need to make forward progress on a project. Today was one of those days. My dad and I decided to spend some time cleaning and polishing both the Fenton Gyros and Ansen/AR slot mags and mount them on the car to see what they look like. It’s pretty awesome. The rear is off about an 1/8” so I need to fix that before welding the mounts. But it’s damn close and really awesome looking. Also I took a picture of the 6109 Holleys on the 8v71 blower. I’m pretty excited for all of this to eventually come together.

[markinnaples]

That's going to be killer when you get it on the road. Those mags are awesome and I will get a set for my '68 Camaro sometime. Also, I have that exact GMC blower on my '68 as well.

[GMC_Typhoon]

One thing for sure you'll never see another one. Great build I dig it.

[LetsFNgo]

Thanks to both of you

Mark, what year did you put the 8v71 blower on your Camaro? Do you have any pictures of it? I was thrilled to find the front runners at Carlisle as they’re so hard to find for a decent price anymore.

[markinnaples]

I bought the engine already together a couple years ago in Texas. And sorry, mine is a 6V71, not 8V71.

[John Brown]

This might just trip your trigger. Doesn't cost anything to look.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/335614278159

[LetsFNgo]

Been awhile since an update on this car. Things are happening. Just not much to show in the way of pictures. The engine is still at the machine shop. I’m hoping to get the block and heads back around Christmas time and then I have to bring the crank to a local guy to balance the rotating assembly.
Transmission parts are all out at Libertys. Should be back around that same timeframe so I can begin assembly on that.
The rolling chassis went out to Pennsylvania the week of Thanksgiving for subframe connectors, cage install, steering column install, Ladder bars, and engine mount front and mid plates. He’s an older guy who works when he feels like it, I’m not in a hurry. He doesn’t have a cell phone so he sent me some picture today using his girlfriends phone.
I’m going up there around Christmas and new years so the cage can be set up around me and everything can be tacked into place. More pics in the future.

Thanks for reading.

[LetsFNgo]

Update
Dropped stuff off at the machine shop so the crank can be balanced, block can be decked, and cam can be degreed in so I know where it needs to be installed at for correct intake centerline.

Libertys says they should be mailing me all the gears next week. I’m not holding my breath because they originally said they’d be done before Thanksgiving. But I guess they didn’t specify which Thanksgiving.

Took a 3 hour ride today to visit the car at Billys(the guy doing the chassis work). He’s taking his time and doing a nice job. He needed me there so we could see where the seat needed to be and test fit a few things. It’s funny I always go out there thinking we’re going to work on the car, but he wants to drive around and show me stuff. It’s fun so I can’t complain. And he’s being very very very fair with me for everything he’s doing. I’ll need to take a ride up there in a couple weeks to help him weld the cage in and start on the ladder bars.

I’m trying really hard to stick with the AMC 390 powerplant. But truth be told I’ve always wanted to piece together a “junkyard” 426 hemi(used up race parts put together) and before the motor plates go in I’m trying really hard not to look for a used beat up block just to see how it would fit with the 18 spline a833 I already have.

I also really want to find an Enderle birdcatcher, pump, and plate to mechanically inject the blower engine instead of using 2 carbs. But I’ll just keep an eye out.

[LetsFNgo]

Small update from my buddy doing the cage and chassis work. I’m going up there next week to help him weld the cage in and start on the rear suspension. I might be picking up all the engine parts this weekend or sometime next week.

[Dave Rifkin]

That's some beautiful work on that cage (IMO)

[LetsFNgo]

Thank you. I’m very thankful a friend recommended Billy(the guy doing the chassis work). Not only is he doing a great job but he’s super helpful and has become a friend. I’m going up there Monday to help weld the cage so I’ll take some more pictures then.

[LetsFNgo]

Took a ride out to the chassis shop today. Spent half a day up there(it’s 3.5hours each way so I left at 3:30. Got there at 7, went to breakfast then we worked on the car until 1 and I headed home to be back at 4:30). Had a great time and we got quite a bit done.
Yesterday Bill had a friend stop by and help welding the cage in. The two of us got more of the welding done. Then we got the dash cut and into place and then got the dash bar fit into place to be tacked.
Once the dash was in we rechecked my seating position so he could make the seat brackets and do the steering column. It’s basically going to come right through the factory hole but be 5-6 inches longer for my seating position in the car.
He has a bunch of cro-moly tubing being delivered tomorrow to make the ladder bars after he finishes the cage. He thinks that’ll be done sometime next week. The subframe connectors are complete. After that we have to do the engine plates and mount the pedals and it’s done.
The engine block is honed, and is being decked tonight. Pistons will end up .030” down in the bore, and with an .027 head gasket it’ll put compression about 9:1 with the blower. With any luck I’ll be picking up the engine tomorrow, but it’ll more than likely be later in the week.

[LetsFNgo]

Pretty big day today.
Finally was able to pick everything up from the machine shop. Scott got everything finished up late last night so myself, my dad, and my son took a ride to go pick everything up.
Block had all the standard work done, as well as a bunch of AMC specific stuff drilling holes and cleaning up casting flaws.
Crank is .030 under and balanced for the new rotating assembly
Heads are port matched, ported and cleaned/polished. Chambers were softened for the boost plans. Ended up with a 62cc chamber. Intake flowed 260 at 500 and the exhaust flowed 210(?) I think. Those were from memory. Scott wrote everything down I forgot the sheet.
Got everything home and unloaded and the engine is on the stand. I have most of the major parts except the head gaskets. I could probably have the engine together in about a weekend.
All the clearances are set at .003. Mains and rods were all kept the same.

[LetsFNgo]

Also, a picture of the blower. Though I really want to switch to mechanical injection. It complicates things quite a bit. But I have time. No reason to rush.

Indy Modman 671 blower intake
Adapter plate
8V71 blower rebuilt
Dual carb adapter
Twin Holley 750 tunnel ram double pumpers. For now.

[dykstra]

Lookin good Marty!

[LetsFNgo]

Thanks very much.
Here’s a teaser picture of a recent purchase. Opens up a whole new world of problems to deal with. And I should have some pictures from the chassis shop soon. The cage is 95% done. The motor plates are in, and the rear suspension is last. After that it’ll be some small mounting tabs for different things and I’ll be bringing the car home to start on bodywork and the tilt front end. I’m guessing I’ll have the car home sometime in March. Im taking the ride out there next week to help work on the car and fit a few more things like pedals and seatbelt tabs.

[LetsFNgo]

Chassis shop pictures

Cage is basically done minus some brackets and finished welds. Drivers seat is mounted. He’s leaving the passenger seat to me. Motor midplate is installed. Waiting on the front elephant ears from the local metal shop. They should be done this week. Then it’s onto the last major job, the rear suspension and ladder bars. I’m going up there this week or next week to help.

Hope you guys enjoy the photos.

[LetsFNgo]

Chassis shop update

Took a ride out to PA today and spent the day helping to mock parts up so all the interior parts can be mounted and installed. We test mounted the steering column and found it sucks so we’re using basically no parts out of it. We also figured out how to hang the wilwood brake and clutch pedals so the mounts can be figured out.

The cage is 100% done minus brackets and mounts for stuff like the seat, belts, and other things.

The ladder bars are started and once the bars are done the housing sliders can be installed.

Hope you all enjoy the photos. This should be my last ride out there before I go pick the car up. He wants to get it done by the middle of March.

[LetsFNgo]

Small update for today

Billy sent me a couple photos building the bracket for the pedals. And after both of us hated the Jegs steering column kit he ended up building his own kit using some bronze bushings from a local hardware store and some spare cro moly tubing.

[Too Many Projects]

That mounting bracket is a work of art, but I'm wondering why 3 reservoirs for 2 functions ??

[big gear head]

One for front brakes, one for rear brakes with a balance bar between them, one for clutch.

[LetsFNgo]

That mounting bracket is a work of art, but I'm wondering why 3 reservoirs for 2 functions ??

Front and rear master are 2 separate small master cylinders, third is the clutch master. There’s a balance bar between the front and rear to set preload and brake pedal pressure. P

[LetsFNgo]

One new photo today.
Billy got the steering column all done using some leftover tubing and the finally correct steering wheel adapter. It took 3 try’s to find one I both liked and fit the old Superior 500 wheel. Next up is to finish the motor plates and the ladder bars, then install the housing floaters and his end is complete. Should have the car back within a couple of weeks. Pretty exciting. Now to find fiberglass rambler fenders lol.

[Bill Pritchard]

That's a great picture of you in the drivers seat!

[LetsFNgo]

Thanks. Bill said this car would’ve been easier to do had I not been a 6’3” oaf with a size 13 foot. It’s a small car and while I fit in it just fine we joke I should’ve started with a bigger car! Lol.

[LetsFNgo]

Just ordered fiberglass fenders, a hood, and bumpers from showcars fiberglass in Ontario. Their reviews online are terrible. But they’re the only ones that list parts for this car and the guy says they’ll ship next week. I’ll update when something happens.

[LetsFNgo]

Small update for today.
Spent the last few days on breaks and lunches at work cleaning and prepping the Enderle hat. I’m still waiting for nozzles to finish the hat for now. But it’s all polished and cleaned. The butterflies were sticky when I bought it and all the O rings in the barrel valve had turned to plastic. Everything is all rebuild and nice now.
The chassis shop almost has the car done. I might be picking it up next week. I need to put new tires on my open trailer to go pick it up.

A friend of mine who’s an excellent tig welder helped me make the surge tank to eventually feed the Enderle hat. I’m waiting for the aluminum bungs to weld into for the main pump feed and returns.

Thanks for reading.

[LetsFNgo]

Small two photo update. The front motor plates are done and installed. And the housing sliders for the rear are tacked into place. I made plans to spend the day there Thursday and come home with the car. Now I have to get everything ready to bring it home. So once it’s home I’ll have a big update.

[LetsFNgo]

Big update time
Left for the shop at 3:45am to get there around 7am. Spent the morning building a driveshaft loop into the chassis rails, then added a few more tabs and built a loop into the main bar of the cage to use as a headrest mount eventually. By the time all that was done it was about 2pm.
Got the car back on the ground and loaded up on the trailer. Went to get a soda with Bill and then brought everything home.
Pictures show all of that stuff being built, the finished rear suspension. The finished motor plates and lateral mount. The finished steering column and pedal assembly. The car being put on the ground for the first time in 4 months, and the ride home. Once home I unloaded the car and all the spare parts to give my dad back his truck that I stole for the day.
This car has really turned into more than originally planned. But I’m ok with that. Thanks for reading and feel free to comment.

[LetsFNgo]

Spent some time yesterday just staring at the car listening to music. I changed the wheels and tires to make sure I’m still happy with how the car sits. I’m very happy with how the car sits.

Next order of business is radiator/fender mount, and shock mounting.

[LetsFNgo]

Had some time to work on the transmission on breaks and lunch. I’m waiting for new bearings to finish putting it together, after that it’ll get put away for whenever the car gets assembled.
First and second are proshifted
Third and fourth are faceplated
The tailshaft housing is mostly assembled and the speedo hole is plugged.

Otherwise I’m working on mounting the passenger seat and got a quote to have the whole car dry blasted in April or May after the spring rains end. Then the body and paintwork can begin. Luckily this car is pretty straight. But I hate the undercoating on the bottom of the car and since everything is coming out so nicely I might as well do the body right.

[LetsFNgo]

Haven’t had much time to work on the car lately. I may get a chance to play with it tomorrow. But I did end up with enough time on lunch today to get the transmission all back together. It went together fairly well, other than me not realizing I couldn’t follow the book due to the size of the 3rd gear lugs, I had to slide the countershaft back out of the way to clear the main shaft, which according to the book isn’t a problem with a factory iron T10.

I also marked what it is so if I die someone won’t just assume it’s a stock trans if they buy it at the estate sale lol.